Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review January 2021

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MICROBIOME BEAUTY

Biological deodorant – a new concept in personal care

What if we could control body odour while respecting the natural physiology of the skin? In line with the clean beauty movement, in the deodorant market, there is a need for alternatives to conventional products that respect the important physiological functions like sweat production, as well as products that work harmoniously with the skin microbiota. By Ò Expósito, A Guirado, D Robustillo, A Gallego, M Mas, P Riera, S Ruiz, D Luna, S Laplana and T Ruiz

T

he daily battle against body odour is still dominated by two classic strategies: deodorants and antiperspirants. The so-called deodorants

and the latest in plant stem cell technology in the field of microbiota – quorum quenching. The active ingredient follows two strategies which act synergistically against the formation

often focus on eliminating bacteria by applying alcohol bases or bactericidal actives, or masking malodour using perfume. On the other hand, traditional antiperspirants’ strategies are based on clogging the pores with derivates of aluminium salts (aluminium chlorohydrate), depriving the bacteria in the axilla of malodour precursors and water. Vytrus Biotech has broadened the scope of axillary care by designing a biological deodorant ingredient that effectively eliminates bad odour. The strategy is an innovative combination that addresses caring for the microbiota through two key channels: 1. using a new prebiotic technology 2. re-balancing microbiota through the interaction with bacterial communication (i.e. quorum quenching).

of malodorous molecules derived from the armpit commensal microbiota.

A NOVEL BIOLOGICAL DEODORANT The new active ingredient discussed in this article (INCI: Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate) combines an innovative use of prebiotics

THE BIOLOGICAL STRATEGY The concentrated metabolome of the Morinda citrifolia plant stem cells is rich in specific fractions of terpenes. This molecular cocktail is designed to efficiently interfere with different bacterial species and prevent the exponential growth of certain species that would cause an imbalance in the bacterial ecosystem. The active ingredient is rich in anti-quormones (anti-quorum sensing molecules) and has been shown to be able to prevent the formation of bacterial communication or coordination factors (niche factors) and unwanted bacterial strategies involved in generating a bad smell.

THE PREBIOTIC STRATEGY This involves a specific and innovative prebiotic cocktail based on sugars which shifts the metabolism of commensal microbiota from lipids to polysaccharides. Microorganisms detect these polysaccharides

Figure 1: Analysis of the broad spectrum bacteriostatic and fungistatic effect

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as an easier alternative to metabolise the nutritional supply and change their metabolism from lipids to sugars, resulting in less odorous by-products.

IN VITRO EFFICACY A series of in vitro tests were carried out to evaluate the properties of the active which demonstrate the interaction with the microbiota responsible for body odour. In vitro 1 involved the analysis of the broad spectrum bacteriostatic and fungistatic effect. Firstly, the broad spectrum bacteriostatic and fungistatic effect was demonstrated by quantifying the microbial population in the absence and presence of the active ingredient. It was found that there was a significant variation between the untreated cultures and the cultures treated with the active after 24 hours in various species, including C. acnes, C. aureus, P. aeruginosa, C. striatum, E. floccosum and M. furfur. The active showed a bacteriostatic effect halting the growth of the indicated species and maintaining the initial levels but without a bactericidal effect (see Figure 1).

Figure 2: Clinical evaluation of odorous volatile molecules reduction


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