Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review January 2022 by New Media B2B

JANUARY 2022 Volume 49 | Number 1

years www.pharmacos.co.za

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January 2022

Contents

years

Volume 49 | Number 1 www.pharmacos.co.za

38 Association News

Plastics SA releases 2020 recycling figures Gold Pack Awards 2021 highlights SAAFFI explores the benefits of skills development

26 6 News Circular packaging range launched for sustainable brands Nutriswiss establishes mild refining processes for organic oils Farewell to Clive Glover – a packaging industry icon

9 Trends What’s hot in beauty care this year

10 Events Why you should attend SAAFFI’s virtual seminar

12 Microbiome Beauty

28 Industry Talk The many ways SA pharma benefits our country

Symrise introduces the new SymProBiome platform Pre- and postbiotics to love your microbiome ESP explores the concept of a mindful microbiome

30 Compressed Air Technology How to reduce the cost of compressed air

Beauty from within trend drives new era in nutricosmetics

Why oil-free systems are best suited to pharma production

20 Company Focus

34 Pharma Focus: Analytical & Lab Services

Botanica acquisition boosts Evonik’s botanicals portfolio

Hersol reaps the benefits of laboratory automation

22 Colour Cosmetics Fresh looks from Merck for makeup innovation

Automated chemistry transforms ACE’s operations Developing pain medication with fewer side effects

Natural and sustainablysourced coloured clays

On the cover

SymProBiome takes research and understanding of the human microbiome to the next level

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2022

FROM THE EDITOR

The team EDITORIAL

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za LAYOUT & DESIGN: David Kyslinger and Andipha Nkoloti

Microbiome skin care – the trend that’s everywhere

appy New Year and best wishes for 2022! I hope you’re recharged and ready for what I’m sure will be a fantastic year. While last year ended on a high note for the P&C Review team, we were saddened by the news of Clive Glover’s passing just before Christmas. Clive bravely fought cancer for a number of years and passed away peacefully on 20 December. On page 8 in this edition, we pay tribute to Clive, whom most of you will know was a packaging industry icon. In 2021, Google searches for probiotic moisturisers grew 140% and we saw a host of new products launched promising to protect and strengthen the skin barrier. This year, experts say the focus on the microbiome will be even bigger with beauty brands pushing the concept of true care for the skin’s ecosystem. If you’re interested in expanding into this category, check out the interesting articles in our microbiome beauty feature. We showcase Symrise’s SymProBiome platform launched to support manufacturers in their efforts to develop products that nourish and protect the human microbiome. New developments from Codif, Essential Specialised Products and Novastell are also featured in the microbiome beauty section. Turn to page 12 to find out more. On page 22, we highlight colour cosmetics trends, fresh looks and fun formulations to inspire makeup innovation in 2022. The compelling colour stories of Merck’s upcoming autumn/winter and spring/summer trends

forecast are shared in this edition as well as Beraca’s coloured clays for makeup, skin care and hair care formulations, which are certified natural, sustainable and responsibly sourced. This month, the theme of our pharmaceutical focus is analytical and lab services. We’re seeing a lot of automation efforts among local labs and are excited to share these stories of progression with our readers. You can read about Hersol’s upgrades to its laboratory technology which have improved efficiencies across the board at the contract manufacturer. ACE Chemicals has also transformed the way it operates by phasing out wet chemistry in favour of automated chemistry processes. In the association news section on page 38, we’ve published the latest plastic recycling stats from Plastics SA. We also showcase some of the highlights of the 2021 Gold Pack Awards, and Sharon Bolel, assistant executive director of SAAFFI reminds our readers why training and employee development are crucial in the fragrances and flavours industry. Enjoy the read!

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

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Vivian Frittelli

CONTRIBUTORS: Toni Carroll, Karen Maier, Allen Cockfield, Rajesh Fotedar, Sharon Bolel

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John Knowlton

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - T he Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. Africa The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

NEWS

Symrise expands 1,2-alkanediols production network

New circular range supports sustainability goals of personal care brands Berry Global is introducing its next

1. design out waste and pollution

generation of innovation with a range

2. keep product and material in use.

of packaging and product solutions

This process includes the incorporation

that leverage its engineering expertise

of recycled content, the development

and proprietary processes in the

of reusable and refillable packs, and

design for circularity. The Berry

the development of mono-material

Global B circular range promises to

solutions to improve recyclability.

help reduce the impact of packaging

Boston round bottles and flip top and

owners to meet and exceed their

tube closures incorporating up to 100%

sustainability goals.

post-consumer recycled (PCR) plastic;

Recognising the growing importance

When Symrise acquired a manufacturing site in Granada, Spain in April 2022, it made a targeted investment to increase its capacity to support the growing global market for 1,2-alkanediols. The company recently upgraded the Granada site to meet its specific production requirements of high quality 1,2-alkanediols, with the first production trials successfully meeting these standards. This shows that Symrise is committed to responding to growing market demands. With the recent start of the new production line, the plant now produces cosmetic ingredients and a broad range of fragrance ingredients from renewable raw materials.

refillable jars with up to 100% PCR

of action to support brand-driven

content; a lighter weight mono-material

sustainability objectives, Berry Global

lip care stick and refillable roll-on

has decided to take on even the

stick; as well as airless dispensers

toughest packaging challenges of its

with lighter weight and mono-material

personal care customers, utilising its

construction, recycled content and

global scale to access circular resins, as

refillable capabilities.

well as its worldwide capabilities and The Symrise manufacturing site in Granada, Spain produces cosmetic ingredients and fragrance ingredients from renewable raw materials

Highlights from the first suite include

on the environment, assisting brand

Equally important, all sustainability

growing investments in infrastructure

benefits are being introduced while

such as the recently announced Berry

ensuring that each product remains

Leamington Spa recycling facility.

fit for purpose, with the required

The Berry Global B circular range programme will see the ongoing introduction of a range of standard

levels of protection, preservation and convenience for the end-consumer. In conjunction with the new standard

products for the beauty, personal

collection, Berry has a long history of

care, pharmaceutical, food, beverage,

working in close partnership with its

home care and industrial sectors, all of

customers in the development of more

which feature important sustainability

sustainable solutions tailored to their

enhancements.

precise requirements, utilising its in-

The first collection of products for

depth knowledge and experience, and

personal care applications, launched in

keeping customers up to date with the

November, is designed in line with two

latest advances in resin material science,

key circular economy rules:

manufacturing, and design for circularity.

Symrise’s 1,2-alkanediol products represent a range of multifunctional ingredients used in personal care products. These ingredients are already produced at its manufacturing plants in Holzminden, Germany, and in Monterrey, Mexico. The Granada production site allows Symrise to expand its production capacity, providing customers with significant growth opportunities in Europe and around the world. It will also ensure that customers receive continuous access to high quality products from Symrise. “This expansion shows that Symrise is committed to its customers and to growth and investment. It also reinforces our position as a forwardlooking, reliable supplier and a leader in the field of product protection ingredients,” says Dr Joern Andreas, president cosmetic ingredients at Symrise. Dr Peter Esser, vice president global chemical production, adds: “The product portfolio of the site complements Symrise’s existing portfolio. In addition, investments have started to set up new production lines for Symrise’s Hydrolite cosmetic multifunctional ingredients.”

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

An artist’s impression of the various packaging designs in the new Berry Global B circular range

NEWS

Nutriswiss establishes gentle refining processes for organic oils these contaminants were present

Nutriswiss, a leading refiner of

in “acceptable” concentrations

edible oils and fats in Switzerland,

(according to the orientation values

uses a special combination of physical

for MOH compiled by the German Food

refining processes to effectively purify

Association [Lebensmittelverband

organic oils and optimise their taste.

Deutschland eV] in August 2021), they

After treatment, the oils are virtually

are still considered “unwanted.”

free from process contaminants (3-

With “mild refining” technology,

MCPD, glycidol and trans fatty acids).

Nutriswiss succeeds in purification

Mineral oil residues, plasticisers, free

without the formation of process

fatty acids and other contaminants

contaminants such as glycidol and

are effectively reduced while

3-MCPD, for which strict limits apply

micronutrients are preserved. As a contract manufacturer, Nutriswiss refines a wide variety of oils for the pharmaceutical, cosmetics and food industries. Its state-of-the-art processes enable the gentle refining of oils in compliance with European organic guidelines and other certifications such as Demeter, Bioland and BioSuisse. In this way, oils that would be of limited suitability for further processing or trade due to intense flavours, coloration or exposure to environmental and transport contaminants become safe ingredients. Unlike conventional physical refining at high temperatures, which creates process contaminants and destroys valuable micronutrients, the thermal load in

With “mild refining” technology, Nutriswiss succeeds in purification without the formation of process contaminants such as glycidol and 3-MCPD

since January 2021 according to EU Regulation 2020/1322. Highly pure and sensorially neutral products can thus be produced in a gentle manner.

“mild refining” processes remains comparatively

Michel Burla, managing director of

low. The process is therefore also suitable for

Nutriswiss, comments: “The contract

sensitive raw materials such as omega 3-rich

production of high-purity oils in organic

seed oils like rapeseed or linseed oil, algae oil or

quality is a very special addition to our existing

other specialty oils.

range of services. We are proud that we can

Contaminants can originate during organic cultivation from exhaust gases, for example,

now meet market demand with certified, purely physical processes.”

or can enter the raw material through contact with machinery and transport circumstances. During an internal random analysis of various organic rapeseed oils in the Swiss retail market, mineral oil residues were detected. Although

T: +41 32 387 48 48 Email: info@nutriswiss.ch www.nutriswiss.ch/en

Syntegon enters strategic partnership with Bayer Syntegon and Bayer are partnering on the

Bayer, we will continue to develop our Xelum

carried out according to the same principles

development of new continuous manufacturing

platform and tap its potential more quickly. This

and recipes.

processes for oral solid dosage (OSD) forms.

will enable us to align our technology even more

The cooperation is based on the Xelum platform

closely with specific customer requirements. The

Syntegon’s main goal is to fulfil the so-called

developed by the Syntegon subsidiary Hüttlin,

goal is to realise a continuous line that covers all

“continuous promise”, as Harbauer says. “We

which the collaborators intend to advance

steps from powder to coated tablet.”

want our systems to enable higher quality

together and establish as a standard in the

While other continuous processes rely

In addition to further developing the platform,

assurance at lower development costs. In

pharmaceutical industry. Its main advantage

on screw granulation, Syntegon’s Xelum

combination with higher flexibility in batch sizes

and a novelty in continuous pharmaceutical

platform uses fluid bed granulation, which

and technology, this gives us a very positive

production is the previously unattained precise

has been well established for decades.

outlook for the continuous future.”

dosing of active ingredients. At the same time,

Since granulation and drying take

fluid bed granulation provides granules with

place in the same process room, there

outstanding properties.

is no need to transport wet granules.

Fluid bed granulation remains the most

The system doses, mixes and

flexible technology for the production of OSD

granulates defined sub-quantities

formulations. It is well established and the ease

of the product, so-called X-Keys,

of transfer from the currently predominant

which continuously run through the

batch process to continuous production is of

process chain and are removed from

high value to pharma companies. Continuous

the system successively. The X-keys

manufacturing makes it possible to further

ensure the traceability of ingredients,

increase quality assurance in production and

which is essential for pharmaceutical

make new drugs available to patients faster.

production. Xelum requires neither

Uwe Harbauer, head of the business unit Pharma at Syntegon, confirms: “Together with

technology transfer nor scale-up. Product development and manufacturing are

The cooperation is based on the Xelum platform developed by Syntegon’s subsidiary Hüttlin, which both partners intend to advance together and establish as a standard for continuous production in the pharmaceutical industry

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2022

NEWS

Roquette opens a new pharma innovation centre in the US

As a global leader in plant-based ingredients

at Roquette. “We’re proud to play a role in the

and a leading provider of naturally-derived

advancement of treatments that help improve,

pharmaceutical excipients, Roquette has

sustain and save lives – and this innovation centre

announced its plans to open a new innovation

is the next step in providing an even greater level

centre in the US to further the advancement

of support to customers looking to push the

of prescription drugs – and beyond. Located in

boundaries of R&D and progress new product

Pennsylvania, the new state-of-the-art facility

developments to market quickly. As an important

aims to better serve Roquette’s global customer

hub for innovation in the US, Pennsylvania is the

base by working closely with its specialist

ideal location to enable us to collaborate more

pharmaceutical teams based at sister sites in

effectively with our partners and help address

Singapore and France. Together, they aim to

important future nutrition and health challenges

advance the research of drug delivery systems

with next-level, premium solutions.”

for oral prescription drugs and nutraceutical

The investment of US$25m will reinforce the

active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), while

group’s position as a leader in the pharmaceutical

improving speed to market.

markets. Represented locally by Azelis South

“The coronavirus pandemic has highlighted

Africa, Roquette’s brand-new innovation centre

the importance of continued collaboration in the

will house an applied sciences facility, focusing

global healthcare community to bring innovative

on the research of excipients for oral dosage

new products and services to fruition,” says Paul

forms, drug delivery systems, nutraceutical

Smaltz, vice president of pharmaceutical solutions

APIs and innovative pharmaceutical ingredients.

Iberchem celebrates 20 years of perfumery training In December, Iberchem celebrated the 20th

The prerequisites for acceptance to the

anniversary of IRIS, the company’s internal

training programme include a degree in the

training programme in perfumery. Iberchem

field of chemistry, as a large part of the training

first launched this programme with the aim of

requires technical and formulation knowledge.

providing a comprehensive, cross-disciplinary

“The majority of the students tend to be

training for future workers in the fragrance

recent graduates,” says María Ángeles López,

industry. Thanks to this initiative, dozens of

fragrance evaluation manager at Iberchem,

graduates have been able to train and start

and one of the school’s mentors. “If they

working in one of the many areas of the

successfully complete the training and there is a

industry such as laboratory analysis, perfume

vacancy that matches their skills, they are then

creation, evaluation, fragrance technologies,

offered a position within the company. During

fragrance application, regulatory, etc. The

the admission process, several assessments

celebration took place at the company’s R&D

are conducted, including an olfactory test and

centre in Spain.

a personal interview, the latter of which is very important in our selection process. As we are training potential employees, we

The new USThe facility to open in the second <Caption> new is USdue facility is due to open in half of andhalf will of house Pharmaceutical the2022 second 2022Roquette and will house Roquette Solutions’ headquarters Pharmaceutical Solutions’ headquarters

This will sit alongside its customer technical services laboratory, to enable a deeper level of collaboration with customers formulating drugs in new product pipelines. There will also be access to an auditorium on-site, where monthly symposiums and customer training will take place, helping industry professionals stay up to date with the latest pharmaceutical science and developments. The new facility will employ approximately 30 people including 20 highly skilled scientists.

Farewell to Clive Glover – a packaging industry icon Clive Glover passed away peacefully on 20 December after a long and brave battle with cancer. Glover was an expert on FMCG packaging, an incredible photographer and writer, and a kind and charismatic man. He was a packaging judge on the P&C Review New Product Competition since its inception 13 years ago and he was a cherished and long-standing friend of the P&C Review and SA Food Review teams. To Shirley and Clive’s family, we send you our deepest condolences during this sad time. RIP Clive, you will be missed in the industry and your legacy will live on forever.

highly value their attitude and enthusiasm before and during their two years of training.” Depending on the branch in which the trainees which to continue, the learning period may be longer than two years. This is the case, for instance, for a perfumer. Iberchem congratulates all employees who have successfully graduated from its training programme. The company encourages ongoing employee training to effectively respond to the ever-changing technical changes and evolving trends of the market

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Clive Glover, pictured third from the left, with Roy and Jill Gardiner, and Clive’s wife, Shirley Glover, at the 2018 P&C Review Symrise New Product Competition awards evening

TRENDS

Top 10 beauty trends

From ingestible beauty to medical-grade solutions and the growing importance of cruelty-free products, Toni Carroll, founder of the award-winning, premium beauty supplement brand, My Beauty Luv, outlines the hottest trends taking the beauty industry by storm. 1. Nutricosmetics are here to stay Although nutricosmetics hit the market in the

5. Beauty staples to become mainstays of comfort

stress and ageing. This will continue

1980s, they are now on the brink of a major

Ingredients move in and out of fashion all the

to grow, and

revolution. In 2021, the global market for

time, but vitamin E, for instance, is used in

brands will also

nutricosmetics was worth US$5.1bn and will

base formulas for the vast majority of skin

start to evolve, to

reach US$8.3bn by 2027. Ingestible beauty

care brands. It’s a comfort that these staple

accommodate this

is the future, but not all ingestible beauty

beauty ingredients are gaining attention again

awakening.

supplements are created equal. More and

as they are tried and tested.

more consumers check ingredients lists to ensure they get the best.

6. More discerning beauty choices

8. Skin protectors take centre stage

Toni Carroll, founder of My Beauty Luv

People are becoming far more discerning

SPFs and other skin protectors have been

in their beauty choices. With the sheer

firm favourites for a while, and consumers

New scientific methods for testing, extracting

volume of skin care products available and

are starting to pay attention to blue-light

and processing plant-derived ingredients

the unbelievable choices today’s consumers

damage from screens too. It is a while off, but

like chlorophyll are now available. Still,

must make, it’s no wonder they’re focusing on

the company that invents a topical, practical

savvy consumers will remain sceptical of

quality over quantity.

solution that stops blue-light penetrating the

2. Plant-derived ingredients

ingredients that suddenly reach in-vouge status, often ensuring there is enough research backing their beauty choices.

dermal layers will completely revolutionise

7. Anti-stress is the new anti-ageing Some ranges are concentrating on anti-stress

3. Home care solutions will continue to grow

the industry.

9. The ‘skinification’ of hair

rather than anti-ageing, but the two claims

Quite a few trailblazing products are making

are highly intertwined. Beauty has become

scalp care sexy. These new treatments are

At-home skincare was a necessity in 2020

more holistic, which is a good thing, as we

also transforming popular favourites, such

and 2021, and it’s not going away. The

start to understand the connection between

as Brazilian blowouts and other typical ‘hair

game-changer will be medical aesthetic

beautifying’ treatments, to be safer, cleaner

professional skin care brands (which

and greener.

consumers can only purchase through

10. The year crafted bacteria really takes off

their clinic or salon) offering medical-grade solutions they can use at home. Home galvanic machines, home laser

The future of all beauty and health will be

and home light therapy devices have also

carefully crafted, unique bacteria strains.

advanced significantly, so the trend to use

Not the half-dead ones you purchase as

home care beauty devices will grow.

probiotics on the shelves, but live, edible cultured bacteria done in the comfort of your

4. Kindness is essential

own home. We will literally be eating our

Vegan skin care and beauty were the fastest-

beauty products.

growing category within beauty for 2021.

As the industry continues to evolve, we

Even those consumers who do not follow a

look forward to seeing what 2022 has in store

vegan diet, identify with the “cleaner, kinder,

when it comes to new innovations that will

gentler” philosophy.

take the beauty world to the next level.

In response, we’re extending our product range this year, starting with vegan-friendly products, including highly advanced antiageing products with uniquely sourced

My Beauty Luv – www.mybeautyluv.com

ingredients to enhance beauty inside and out.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2022

EVENTS

2022 SAAFFI seminar to highlight how to push sensory boundaries in a virtual world The 2022 annual SAAFFI seminar will be taking place virtually on 15 and 16 March. Using sophisticated virtual event technology, this year the seminar will feature a new element of an online expo as well as its renowned interactive workshop.

hris Milk an American entrepreneur, innovator, director, photographer, and immersive artist says that in virtual reality, it’s more about capturing and creating worlds that people are inhabiting. You really are a creator in the way the audience lives within the world that you are building. This challenge is a profound one for the fragrances and flavours industry, which is solidly grounded in and dependent on the senses of smell, taste and touch. So how do we cater to these senses in a world of virtual reality? The 2022 annual SAAFFI seminar themed “virtual is a reality – are we pushing sensory boundaries”, aims to highlight the initiatives in the fragrances, flavours and related sectors which are currently influencing thought and practice in the areas of virtual reality and the internet of things. The development of digital taste and smell underscores the importance of cultural dimensions of bodily perception in augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR) devices. But how is the industry catering for these diverse needs? As the fragrances and flavours industry has much to learn in this arena, professionals are invited join the experts at the 2022 seminar to explore various themes and initiatives in this brand-new territory. The virtual seminar, which will be held over two days on 15 and 16 March, offers a programme packed with exciting offerings.

Did you know? The first 200 local (South African) delegates to have paid in full for the 2022 seminar will receive one of SAAFFI’s famous goody bags. There are various discounts available for group bookings and a special rate is available for fully paid-up Coschem members. Click here for more info: https://bit.ly/3sMtLcK

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

visit and exhibit at live exhibitions. So, the SAAFFI Seminar and Expo 2022 will offer industry players the opportunity to purchase a virtual booth, where organisations can display their wares and services, screen videos and arrange meeting with visitors at their booths – replicating the real-live expo experience.

AN ENGAGING PROGRAMME WITH TOPICAL TALKS

SOPHISTICATED TECHNOLOGY WITH AN EXPO ELEMENT Sharon Bolel, assistant executive director of SAAFFI comments: “The online conferencing package we use for the twoday seminar is a sophisticated platform, which more-than replicates a live convention. We are excited at the prospect of using ground-breaking technology partners to welcome our delegates to the exciting world of online events. The amazing organising committee has been creative in putting together a programme that incorporates world-class speakers, an interactive workshop (for which the SAAFFI seminar has become renowned) and a brilliant set-up to facilitate networking and meetings.” This year there is an additional component of an online expo. For the past two years, the COVID-19 pandemic has deprived us all of the opportunity to

International and local speakers will address topics including flavour trends, fragrance trends, the psychology of the virtual workspace, and the effects of the virtual age on advertising. Flavour and fragrance trends presentations are always a highlight of the SAAFFI seminar and this year the topic will be presented with the interesting additional angle of changing consumer behaviours due to COVID-19. The SAAFFI 20 th annual seminar and expo is an industry event which offers so much to so many. Those who attend are sure to take away added skills, useful information and a solid dose of career-oriented motivation. It is an event not to be missed by any serious professional. And there is even the promise of a jam-packed goody bag for the first 200 registered delegates. SAAFFI, the South African Association of the Flavour & Fragrance Industry, represents all aspects of the flavour, fragrance and allied industries. It unites the industry across non-competitive issues, freeing up individual organisations to grow their business. For more information, and to book seats for the seminar, please visit saaffi.co.za/events. • SAAFFI – www.saaffi.co.za

DIARY

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WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2022

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

Symrise launches SymProBiome

to work in harmony with the microbiome

The new and unique SymProBiome platform positions Symrise at the forefront of microbiome research. The platform takes the understanding of the body’s complex and dynamic ecosystems to a new level and enables the creation of specific and effective health and personal care products for key areas including skin and hair care, oral hygiene and gut health. TM

raditionally, research into pharmaceuticals and personal care products has focused on understanding their impact on the human body and human cells. Today, it increasingly focuses on the importance of the human microbiome for healthcare and personal care. Instead of simply analysing which microorganisms live on and in the human body, Symrise goes a step further. The global producer of cosmetic and fragrance ingredients studies the complex and delicate interactions of the human microbiome and how it forms a truly balanced ecosystem with all parts of the human body.

A NEW APPROACH “Like the earth itself, the human body resembles a large, dynamic ecosystem that strives for stability and balance across its smaller ecosystems while facing constant

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challenges. Therefore, we consider it essential to understand the body’s microbiomes both insularly and as a holistic system in order to develop products that can truly maximise health and wellbeing while enhancing consumer satisfaction,” says Dr Imke Meyer, vice president global innovation, Cosmetic Ingredients Division of Symrise. SymProBiome introduces a new approach in the marketplace, introducing products and ingredients and also gaining unique insights with regard to existing ingredients. Applications range across the Symrise product portfolio, from oral care and cosmetics to food products.

Did you know? Each person’s microbiome composition is unique like a fingerprint and is affected by diet, geographic location and lifestyle.

COLLABORATION LEADS TO INNOVATION Connecting science and innovation to create unique real-world solutions, SymProBiome emerged from collaborations between Symrise experts in microbiology, microbiome research and other leading authorities in the fields of human cell and molecular biology, analytics and organic synthesis. Paired with the long-standing core competence in flavour, cosmetic ingredients and nutrition development, SymProBiome acts as an interdisciplinary platform that unites creativity and innovation and translates it into sophisticated science and new product development. “SymProBiome takes research and understanding of the human microbiome to the next level. This includes the development of dedicated in vitro and ex vivo microbiome models that closely model the natural

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

ecosystems of the body,” says Dr Christin Koch, director microbiology research at Symrise and scientific head of SymProBiome.

skin,” comments Dr Sabrina Behnke, senior global product manager in the Cosmetic Ingredient division.

PROPRIETARY TECHNOLOGIES IN ACTION

WORKING WITH EXPERTS IN THE FIELD

Thanks to the development and use of advanced microbiome screening and modelling tools, SymProBiome has delivered effective ingredient solutions in key areas including the underarm (SymDeo® B125, a deodorant active), skin (SymReboot™ L19), scalp (Crinipan® PMC Green), and oral cavity (Optafresh® D). Besides the development of ingredients that care for the microbiome, SymProBiome also addresses consumer interest in reducing the potentially harmful impact of traditional cosmetic products on their microbiome. Symrise’s multifunctional ingredients, such as SymSave® H in combination with Hydrolite® 5 green, Hydrolite® 7 green and Hydrolite® CG, bring many benefits for formulations, such as moisturising as well as antioxidant properties and achieve full product protection by maintaining the microbiome. “Keeping products safe from microbial contamination can work in harmony with the skin microbiome. SymProBiome helps us protect both – the product and the

“We feel perfectly positioned to deliver innovations in microbiome personal care, continuously building on our existing knowledge by forging partnerships with a wealth of leading scientific experts, who form part of our scientific advisory board. SymProBiome has already delivered scientific breakthroughs of significant relevance to product development,” says Dr Florian Genrich, senior global product manager at Symrise. This teamwork clearly benefits from collaborations with Diana Food, part of Symrise’s Flavour & Nutrition segment and a world-leading producer of natural food ingredients, as well as probiotics experts Probi and global authorities including Canada’s Université Laval Institute of Nutrition and Functional Food (INAF) and Natural Sciences and Engineering Research Council. Symrise has also founded a research programme that includes an industrial research chair and a Collaborative Research and Development programme. •

"SymProBiome takes research and understanding of the human microbiome to the next level" TM

PRODUCT PROTECTION WHICH DOES NOT HARM THE MICROBIOME Product protection is a key element for consumer safety and thus is essential for every cosmetic product on the market. Without proper protection from spoilage, a cosmetic product cannot exist. With increasing awareness of the microbiome and the body’s ecosystems, Symrise has developed product protection solutions that keep natural skin flora intact and healthy while simultaneously ensuring a formula is able to resist spoilage on shelf and in the consumer’s hands. These formulations aim to maintain or improve but never harm the microbiome. In recent years, multifunctional ingredients have become more popular for the protection of cosmetic formulations, as regulatory pressure and negative press on certain chemistries have limited the palette of preservatives available to manufacturers. Molecules such as 1,2-alkanediols (like 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol & 1,2-octanediol), hydroxyacetophenone, and ethylhexylglycerin have become popular among new launches, according to the Mintel GNPD database. Symrise has shown that the use of a patented smart combination of either 2% Hydrolite® 5 green, 0.5% Hydrolite® CG, or 1% Hydrolite® 7 green alongside 0.5% of the antioxidant SymSave® H can help protect a variety of formulations such as emulsions, wet wipes and rinse-off products while respecting the skin microbiome. Symrise – www.symrise.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2022

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

Pre- and postbiotics to love your microbiome The interplay of the microbiome is critical to skin’s health and function. A healthy microbiome benefits all types of skin, from oily to dry, but it is particularly useful to people with dry and sensitive skin, or skin that is prone to acne and eczema. The microbiome is necessary not only to maintain healthy skin but to also minimise infections, eczema, acne and inflammation.

he skin is a complex and dynamic ecosystem that is inhabited by bacteria, archaea, fungi and viruses. These microbes are collectively referred to as the skin microbiota. The bacteria in the microbiome help digest food, regulate the immune system, protect us against disease-causing bacteria and produce vitamins including B12 and K. Internal and external factors can alter the skin’s microbiota, such as diet, genetics, pre-disposition, age, hygiene and lifestyle (including cigarettes and exercise).

NEW DATA ON JOJOBA OIL Skin microbiota is made up of commensal bacteria (good) and opportunistic pathogenic bacteria (bad). Commensal bacteria are resident flora that live in harmony with the skin’s cells, such as Staphylococcus hominis, Cutibacterium acnes, Corynebacterium species and Staphylococcus epidermis. Pathogenic bacteria are the unfriendly or unwanted kind present on the skin’s surface, and which can replace commensal bacteria and cause inflammation. Examples include Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus.

Figure 1

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Figure 2

A good balance between commensal and pathogenic bacteria is linked to healthy skin. Drier and sensitive skin tend to lack commensal bacteria and has an excess of pathogenic bacteria. Vantage selected S. epidermidis (commensal bacteria) and S. aureus (opportunistic pathogen) as test microorganisms to conduct microbiome studies, evaluating the impact of jojoba oil on the growth of commonly occurring skin microbiota. • Cultures: S. epidermidis ATCC 14990™ and S. aureus ATCC 6538™ • Incubations: 18 hours and 48 hours • Method: Photometry • Endpoint: XTT reduction (OD and % control) • MIC = 90% reduction in optical density compared to control growth. After 48 hours, jojoba oil may positively impact the growth of commensal skin microbiota such as S. epidermidis, thus reestablishing skin balance (see Figure 1).

It was also found that jojoba oil upregulates eight genes, positively impacting skin radiance and comfort, and downregulates nine genes associated with inflammatory pathways, therefore rebalancing the skin’s gene expression (see Figure 2).

PROBIOTICS VERSUS PREBIOTICS Probiotics are bacteria or bacterial components that provide health benefits when consumed or applied to the skin. Prebiotics are food and conditioning agents for healthy bacterial strains on the skin. For skin care, both prebiotics and probiotics help to calm irritated skin and maintain skin health. PreBio™ Defense from Vantage is a unique blend of materials with a 12% concentration of actives. This can be seen in its INCI: Mannitol (and) Cellulose (and) Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose (and) Inulin (and) Yeast Beta Glucan (and) Undaria Pinnatifida Extract. The product is a white to off-white bead which will stay in its form until broken on the skin. The prebiotics in PreBio Defense include 1% to 10% inulin, which is a naturally occurring complex polysaccharides from chicory; 1% to 5% yeast beta glucan, consisting of beta glucose oligosaccharides from yeast; and 1% to 5% undaria pinnatifida extract, which is a complex oligosaccharide from brown seaweed. These complex fructo- and glucosaccharides provide nutrition for “good” bacteria on the skin. When delivered to the skin, prebiotics provide nutrition to healthy bacteria, which multiply to overwhelm unhealthy bacteria. During

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

this process, the immune system is slightly stimulated to remain vigilant, thus boosting barrier and protective functions of the skin. PreBio Defense provides a multi-faceted approach to maintain healthy skin (see Figure 3). It is ideal for use in facial serums and gels, face and body creams and lotions, wellness skin care and holistic beauty. Recommended use levels: 1% to 3%.

REBALANCE MICROBIOTA WITH ACTIBIOME Actibiome is another superb product from Codif, represented by Vantage in South Africa. This prebiotic has its food source from different seaweeds. This combination of various nutritious components supports the biodiversity and homeostasis of the skin microbiota. There are two versions available from Codif: 1. Actibiome PE: INCI Water (and) Seawater (and) Glycerin (and) Laminaria digitata extract (and) Chlorella vulgaris extract (and) saccharide isomerate (and) phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin 2. Actibiome GPA: INCI Glycerin (and) Water (and) Seawater (and) Laminaria digitata extract (and) Chlorella vulgaris extract (and)

saccharide isomerate (and) phenethylalcohol

ECOSKIN GIVES SKIN IMMUNITY This amazing product has been around for over 15 years. Solabia was a pioneer in fermentation technology and developing microorganisms for skin care. Figure 3 Ecoskin® has recently been reclassified as a preand postbiotic as the bacteria are not live. However, the presence of this bacteria creates a cellular defence response in the skin, causing innate immunity. Ecoskin is an active ingredient combining two prebiotic and two postbiotic bacteria. As a carbon source, gluco-oligosaccharides – obtained by enzymatic synthesis – and fructo-oligosaccharides – derived from the pressing of yacon tubers – constitute a preferential substrate for the feeding of commensal skin microorganisms. Combined with lactobacillus-type postbiotics, they can rebalance the composition of the microbial

flora for improved skin defence. This data has been confirmed in new metagenomic studies conducted in vivo on the skin microbiota. In addition, Ecoskin significantly increases the expression of anti-microbial peptides such as β-defensin 2 and β-defensin 3. Thus, by acting directly on the bioselectivity of the cutaneous microbiome, Ecoskin enhances the radiance of the complexion and reduces feelings of discomfort characteristic of sensitive skin with an oily tendency. • Vantage – kim.maccallum@vantagegrp.com

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MICROBIOME BEAUTY

The mindful microbiome The discovery of the skin microbiome discovery is said to be one of the most revolutionary scientific breakthroughs of the past 10 years, offering the cosmetics industry a unique opportunity for smarter products. Essential Specialised Products, a distributor of bespoke cosmetic active ingredients, explores the differences between pre-, pro- and postbiotics and makes a few recommendations regarding effective solutions for microbiome focused formulations.

he human microbiome consists of a delicate balance of microflora that reside on our skin and in our bodies. If disrupted, skin disorders and inflammation can ensue until the balance is restored between good and harmful bacteria. As our mind and skin are connected, one affects the other. Just as our bodies need supplementation of nutrients, the microbiome requires a little extra care too. Microbiome balance can be promoted by utilising the benefits naturally provided by probiotics. Probiotics are good microorganisms, or microorganism components, which provide health benefits to the host by encouraging the growth of good bacteria. Probiotics is another name for “good bacteria”. Currently, because it is not

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regulated, the term probiotics means different things to different people. In food, probiotics typically mean a live bacteria. However, in cosmetics, because of the need for preservatives for an extended shelf life, there are rarely live bacteria in topical products. Instead, you will typically see “lysates” or “ferments” listed on the ingredients. The ones used in beauty are often either killed by heat or more often ground, which does not mean that they are not effective, but that they function differently from how probiotics act in food.

PREBIOTICS AND POSTBIOTICS IN SKIN CARE It can be challenging to develop skin care products containing live probiotics because

of the storage challenges they present. Alongside the lysates and ferments mentioned previously, other options for promoting a healthy skin microbiome include using prebiotics or postbiotics. Prebiotics are nutrients that can only be used by good bacteria. They are usually special types of sugars or fibres. They are amazing ingredients because they will feed only the good bacteria already on the skin. This means that, not only can they help to lower inflammation and rebuild the skin barrier, but they also grow the good “bugs” and starve the bad ones. They are especially helpful if there is an overgrowth of bad bacteria, such as acne (where C. acnes is the culprit) or eczema (where S. aureus is linked to eczema). It is an innovative way to address these skin diseases.

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

ACB Yogurt Extract is standardised to contain 15% to 20% lactic acid. • INCI: Water and Yogurt Extract • Benefits: moisturising and exfoliating • Use levels: 1.0% to 5.0% • Solubility: water soluble

Regarding postbiotics, they are a product of good bacteria which create a positive loop on the bacteria themselves. Lactic acid is a practical example. It is a natural product derived from Lactobacillus (a “friendly” bacteria) and it helps destroy the bad bacteria and create the perfect environment for good bacteria to flourish. It also smoothing and gently exfoliating.

PROBACILLUS REVIVE

PROBIOTICS FOR A BALANCED MICROBIOME Probiotics were first recognised for balancing and protecting the gut’s microflora and supporting the immune system. Today, topical probiotics provide similar protective balance to the skin. Probiotics promote healthy skin function by keeping the microbiome balanced and skin strong, healthy and age resistant. Calm skin can enhance self-esteem, decrease stress and influence our emotions. A calm mind can decrease inflammation, problem skin and keep the skin microbiome balanced. Listed below are a series of ingredients recommended for a mindful microbiome. All these ingredients are available locally from Essential Specialised Products.

"Probiotics promote healthy skin function by keeping the microbiome balanced and skin strong, healthy and age resistant" • INCI: Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate • Benefits: soothing and enhances collagen production • Use level: 2.0% to 0.5% • Solubility: water soluble

ACB YOGURT EXTRACT

ACB YOGURT DERMAL RESPIRATORY FACTOR PF ACB Yogurt Dermal Respiratory Factor PF is produced by prompting live Lactobacillus bulgaricus cells to secrete stress response elements by striking the Lactobacillus cells with specific wavelengths of UV radiation. Using bio-fermentation and various filtration techniques, the secretion is then isolated and extracted from the live bacteria cell to deliver various anti-ageing benefits and anti-irritant properties.

Yogurt contains lactic acid bacteria. One of the main products produced by LAB is lactic acid. Lactic acid is a member of the alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which are known to have transformed the modern cosmetics industry. Instead of relying on statistics, consumers could literally feel and see an immediate difference in their skin when using products formulated with lactic acid. The results include a smooth, brighter complexion with a diminished appearance of unwanted wrinkles.

Designed to intensely renew and repair damaged skin, this probiotic ingredient is created by fermenting Lactobacillus bulgaricus cells in a unique media with soy-derived prebiotic components in order to optimise the growth conditions. This unique material has shown the ability to enhance cellular renewal, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and deeply moisturise the skin to reveal an even texture and calm skin. • INCI: Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate • Benefits: increased cellular renewal, moisturisation and antioxidant activity • Use level: 0.5% to 5.0% • Solubility: water soluble

LEUCIDAL SF MAX Leucidal® SF Max is derived from Lactobacillus acidophilus, a probiotic bacterium traditionally used to ferment milk into yogurt. Created by the fermentation of Lactobacillus in a defined growth medium, this specific manufacturing process yields a unique peptide with a moisturising benefit, antimicrobial activity and the ability to promote the balance of beneficial commensal microorganisms. • INCI: Lactobacillus Ferment • Benefits: promotes microbiome balance, moisturisation, anti-inflammation and antimicrobial • Use levels: 2.0% to 4.0% • Solubility: water soluble • Essential Specialised Products – www.esp-sa.co.za

PROBIOTICS GOODNESS FOR THE SKIN Healthy, Balanced Microbiome

For all your Probiotic Skincare Ingredients

Healthy, Balanced Skin www.esp-sa.co.za / 010 595 9690 / admin@esp-sa.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2022

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

Beauty from within trend sparks

a new era in nutricosmetics Having beautiful skin is a universal desire. But as conversations about what constitutes a stunning visage evolves, consumers are moving away from traditional topical routines to whole body remedies. In the dynamic market of new cosmetics and beauty launches, you must be quick to identify the latest trends – and nutricosmetics is among the hottest of all new products, says Carla Felgueiras, global manager, ingredients at Novastell.

utricosmetics, loosely referred to as a combination of nutrition and cosmetics, can include micronutrient and vitamin therapy that supports the immune system, boosts collagen production for an anti-ageing effect, and improves the health of skin, hair and nails. The term “nutricosmetic” was first coined by Swedish biochemist Ake Dahlgren, who was behind its commercial launch in the 1980s. Since then, the market for nutricosmetics has exploded. The category was valued at $6.925.49bn in 2020 and is estimated to register a CAGR of 8.05% during the forecast period of 2021 to 2026.¹ A big motivator for the growth has been the COVID-19 pandemic. As factors such as mask-wearing and lockdown started to bite into consumers’ skin health – resulting in conditions such as ‘maskne’. This saw shoppers gravitating towards natural health and beauty remedies and spikes in interest for botanical actives in “beauty-from-within” products. To fully embrace the nutricosmetic approach to beauty, formulators and new product developers must understand how consumers respond to these trends. Clear communication is also needed on how ingesting nutrients, micronutrients and other active compounds aids skin health.

INNER HEALTH IS KEY TO APPEARANCE Science backs the premise that a traditional skin care routine is not enough to ensure beautiful skin, and that a lack of micro- and macronutrients can lead to skin problems. To offset these conditions, the beauty industry is urging consumers to up their

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"As the main structural component of the cell membranes in the body, phospholipids are integral to skin health"

nutritional intake by incorporating a healthy and balanced diet, which can supply the essential micronutrients and antioxidant-rich substances to neutralise free radical damage. In normal physiology, our bodies naturally produce free radicals to combat external aggressors such as viruses and bacteria. However, an abundance of free radicals affects the skin’s structural layer and defensive barrier, including collagen and lipids. Free radicals can damage the skin when trying to grab an extra electron from other molecules in the body. When these molecules are “stolen”, it causes direct damage to the skin’s DNA, which results in accelerated skin ageing. Skin damage due to free radicals can appear in several forms: premature wrinkles; unwanted pigmentation; unevenness in skin tone; and lacklustre skin. Over time, the effects of free radical damage become more noticeable – this is known as a free radical cascade.²

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

SEA BUCKTHORN OIL IS CLINICALLY SUPPORTED TO: • improve skin hydration, elasticity and wrinkles • regulate sebum • promote collagen synthesis • protect the skin from UV rays.

THE BEAUTY OF THE SEA BUCKTHORN BERRY The booming nutricosmetics market includes a wide range of health supplements that can positively influence skin, hair and nails. Most of us are already familiar with various vitamins, whose skin care benefits have been known for decades. Yet people are increasingly looking to zinc, omega 3 and 6, certain enzymes and phospholipids as defence mechanisms to protect skin against free radical damage and multiple modern aggressors, including pollutants, cigarette smoke, stress and a sedentary lifestyle. As we age, the body’s natural production of unsaturated fatty acids begins to slow down and can only be supplemented by diet. There are various groups of unsaturated fatty acids, among them, omega 7 is a rare family of unsaturated fatty acids provided by the sea buckthorn berry. Also known as the “holy fruit of Tibet”, this berry has a long history of use in traditional medicine in Tibet and China, where it was used to treat coughs, digestive problems, skin problems, wounds and burns. CyanthOx is a unique sea buckthorn extract with a rich combination of polyphenols, flavonoids and proanthocyanidins. This ingredient is said to skin from photo ageing and the effects of pollution. It also helps to improve collagen formation and promotes skin regeneration and repair. Omegia is a standardised ingredient containing a balanced ratio of omega 3, 6, 7 and 9 unsaturated fatty acids. The high concentration of omega 7 is said to help reduce inflammation.

NATURE’S ANTI-AGEING ACTIVE Phospholipids have been cited for their holistic benefit and impact on the so-called gut, skin and brain axis. At gut level, food constituents can directly affect the pathophysiology of this organ by modulating both the enterocyte function and microbiota. The result is a complex network that can lead to a low grade of inflammation, yet the cross-talk between microbiota and the immune system can affect skin health positively.⁴ As the main structural component of the cell membranes in the body, phospholipids are integral to skin health. Healthy skin is even in tone, hydrated, moisturised and firm. To achieve this requires proper skin cell function and water retention. Skin cells high in nutrients can help to combat skin ageing and nourishing skin cells from within is vital to ensure optimal barrier function – resulting in a smoother and visibly healthier dermis. When taken as a health supplement, phospholipids offer cosmetic benefits such as helping skin to lock in moisture. They also support the body’s natural hydration process while promoting optimal skin barrier function. Marine phospholipids in particular work at a deep cellular level to help maintain hydration, elasticity and barrier function, acting as an improved lipid carrier and reducing water loss. Nutricosmetic health supplements are generally available in different formats, including capsules, sachets, gummies, chewing gum and functional beverages, whose bioavailabity rests on which format

the manufacturer or formulator chooses. Although nutritional foods are still the best defence, health supplements may work holistically and play a complementary role in addressing consumers’ beauty, health and wellbeing needs. The beauty industry is also excited about the potential of pre-and probiotic ingredients, which play a significant role in regulating the gut microbiome and promote the growth of beneficial bacteria.⁴

AN EXPERT IN NUTRICOSMETIC DEVELOPMENT The nutricosmetics trend is surging in popularity, as it addresses consumer demand for a more sustainable, clean label, natural and wellness-based beauty regime. Brand owners that can formulate new supplements targeting specific beauty issues will find strong opportunities for their innovative products. At Novastell, we assist formulators and brand owners in developing these new products by harnessing the best that nature provides. For example, our extensive range of functional phospholipid ingredients us targeted at the food supplement, beauty and personal care industries to meet the latest needs. • REFERENCES: 1. https://www.mordorintelligence.com/industryreports/nutricosmetics-market 2. https://odacite.com/blogs/tohealthandbeauty/whatare-free-radicals-and-how-do-they-affect-your-skin 3. https://www.frontiersin.org/research-topics/16737/ the-gut-skin-brain-axis-in-human-health-anddisease 4. https://www.pravadaprivatelabel.com/blogs/news/ why-we-love-phospholipids

Novastell – novastell.com/en

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2022

COMPANY FOCUS

Evonik acquires sustainable botanicals pioneer Botanica As the next step in its journey to becoming a leader in the active cosmetic ingredients market, Evonik has acquired the Swiss plant extract producer Botanica. This move sees Evonik expanding its portfolio of unique and highly customisable botanical system solutions and transforms Care Solutions into a leading actives provider.

inalised in November 2021, the acquisition will see Botanica integrated into the Care Solutions business line within Evonik’s life sciences division Nutrition & Care. Botanica has a presence in Switzerland, France and Germany, and is considered a European leader in sustainable botanical extracts for the personal care industry. Prior to this acquisition, Evonik purchased a number of other businesses with strong synergies. These include the cosmetic delivery systems company Infinitec Activos (2021), the biotech company innoHealth (2020), Wilshire Technologies (2020) and Alkion Biopharma (2016). By leveraging the synergies of these complementary technology platforms, Evonik is enhancing its entire product portfolio, opening new markets and accelerating its growth.

BOOSTED PORTFOLIO OF SYSTEM SOLUTIONS By drawing on Botanica’s knowledge of plants and its extraction competence, Evonik will innovate a wide range of sustainable base extracts to strengthen its broad portfolio of actives. The active ingredient market is of great significance to Evonik as 40% to 50% of the market is made up of botanicals.

Botanica’s highly customisable extracts will also boost the portfolio of unique system solutions offered by the Care Solutions business line. The division Nutrition & Care aims to increase its share of system solutions from 20% to more than 50% by 2030. “Botanica’s outstanding track record in customisation and sustainable sourcing and production aligns perfectly with our goals to become the sustainable specialties partner,” says Yann D´Hèrvé, head of Evonik’s Care Solutions business line.

SUSTAINABILITY, A GUIDING BUSINESS PRINCIPLE The sustainable and fair-trade practices underlying Botanica’s philosophy are renowned worldwide. This outstanding ethical profile matches the strategy of Nutrition & Care, which has made sustainability its guiding business principle. “Finding a strong partner with a trusted sustainability record can be challenging. With Evonik we feel confident that Botanica can continue to operate according to our philosophy, while bringing our highquality plant extracts to a wider customer base,” says Andreas Wälti, managing director of Botanica.

UNRIVALLED EXPERTISE AND TRACEABLE EXTRACTS Botanica employs 43 people and was founded by the Wälti family in 1998. With a selection of over 1 000 different plants available for extraction, Botanica offers customers an unrivalled level of expertise and the power for innovation in formulation design. The plant extracts are used for cosmetic formulations and are certified according to Swiss Organic Produce Regulation, ISO 9001 and CSE sustainability standard, including ISO 14001. Botanica’s plant extracts are even traceable back to the field. •

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SPECIAL PRODUCTS AND EXTRACTION METHODS

• Extractive: Plant extracts as natural products are multi-component mixtures and contain a range of substances. Using its knowledge of the primary marker compounds or substance groups in many plants, Botanica has developed the Extractive® range of plant extracts, in which a minimum amount of typical marker compound is guaranteed and measured by effect (antioxidant potential, colour etc.). • Water distillates: This interesting range of extracts is based on water as carrier material. The water distillates are obtained using a gentle distillation process. Compliant with natural guidelines for cosmetics, sodium benzoate, ethanol or cinnamon extract is used as a preservative. Depending on the plant part used, the INCI designation is fruit water, leaf water, root water, bark water, seed water, bud water, peel water or flower water. • Mushrooms: These so-called “eukaryotic” organisms form an independent kingdom in addition to that of plants and animals. Botanica has compiled a new list of raw materials with different mushrooms, which can be ordered with different carriers. • Milks and emulsions: Milk is a white, turbid mixture of proteins, lactose and milk fat in water, while the emulsions are based, for example, on lecithin, which is an emulsifier that helps to solubilise insoluble liquids such as water and oil. Milky mixtures reflect and scatter light in all directions. Our eyes perceive these reflexes as white.

Botanica – www.botanica.ch Evonik – personal-care.evonik.com

EVONIK AND BOTANICA ARE NOW A TEAM!

Swiss plant extract manufacturer Botanica offers a portfolio of over 1,000 different plants for extraction. By leveraging Botanica’s plant

www.evonik.com/personal-care www.botanica.ch rene.spada@evonik.com

know-how and extraction expertise, Evonik will develop a wide range of innovative sustainable base extracts to strengthen its broad portfolio of actives. In addition, Botanica’s highly customizable extracts will expand Evonik’s portfolio of unique system solutions.

COLOUR COSMETICS

Fresh looks

to inspire makeup innovation in 2022 Although it’s difficult to imagine a post-COVID-world, we know that during times of crises, innovation prevails. This is no different in the cosmetics industry, and in the colour cosmetics segment in particular. To inspire new product development in 2022, Karen Maier of Merck South Africa shares the compelling colour stories of Merck’s upcoming autumn/winter and spring/summer trends forecast.

s we enter 2022, the world continues to be surrounded by uncertainty as a result of overwhelming issues

such as the ongoing pandemic and climate change. It’s not surprising that disharmony exists across many aspects of our existence. The overarching theme for the upcoming autumn/winter season is therefore quite aptly identified as “the clash”. After a summer of bright, intense and radiant regeneration we now envisage a winter electrified and revitalised by powerful energy. The desire to change the world and the emergence of innovative solutions are going to heat things up, create consensus and challenge the status quo. Confrontation, dissonance and more intense clashes of opinion will lead to inspiring avenues and

a clearer, bolder, uncompromising way of getting to the heart of the matter.

SENSITIVE CLASH The theme of our first beauty look is the sensitive clash, featuring a palette of tender shades and reassuring textures. In these tense times this gentle and romantic look inspires the sensitive woman to weave a protective cocoon of delicacy and introspection around herself. With soft pastel hues and powdery textures reminiscent of childhood memories, this look immerses us in watercolour dreams – think lilac and pink, or the soft blue shade of a reflective pond, gentle ginger and the colour of a field of ripening wheat. Team these colours up with caring actives and floral

Formulation guide: Lost lagoon eyeshadow gel (S 22-43)

Phase A

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Ingredients

INCI EU

(%)

Xirona® Caribbean Blue

Mica, CI 77891, Silica, Tin Oxide

6.70

RonaFlair® Satin

Illite

5.00

Colorona® Majestic Green

CI 77891, Mica, CI 77288

2.65

Unipure Blue LC 686

CI 77007

0.65

Carbopol® Ultrez 21

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

0.30

Citric acid, 10% solution

Aqua, Citric Acid

Water, demineralised

Aqua

RonaCare® Ectoin IQ

Ectoin

0.30

RonaCare® Allantoin

Allantoin

0.50

AMP Ultra PC 1000

Aminomethyl Propanol

0.20

Euxyl® PE 9010

Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyl Glycerin

1.00

Glycerol anhydrous (vegetable) Emprove® bio

Glycerin

2.00

Water, demineralised

Aqua

Lubrajel DV

Glycerin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Propylene Glycol

q.s. ad 100

13.50 5.00

COLOUR COSMETICS

fragrances, and they will envelop the wearer in an ethereal, ephemeral veil.

AUDACIOUS CLASH In direct contrast to the sensitive clash look, we are confronted with the audacious clash – composed of radical, bold true colours. There are no half measures here; selfconfidence is conveyed through striking forms and expressive hues which assert a strong personality. Graphic black lines are juxtaposed with bold, electrifyingly red lips. These red lips can be glossy or matte. Achieving a matte look is effortless when formulating with Ronastar Red Allure, a luminous matte burgundy-red pigment. All the pigments in the Ronastar Allure range glide onto the skin with a touch of velvet, giving any formulation a luxurious feel and sense of elegance. No red formulation is ever complete without the presence of Xirona Le Rouge; red is the most iconic colour in colour cosmetics and Xirona Le Rouge is the ultimate tool in achieving red perfection. It is a deep shade of vermilion wrapped up in pearlescence, offering a subtle colour travel effect from red to orange-red and, due to

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2022

COLOUR COSMETICS

its platy structure and composition, this pigment makes for more homogenous and stable red formulations.

Formulation guide: Go for more lip lacquer (W21-44)

Phase

Ingredients

INCI EU

(%)

Xirona® Le Rouge

CI 77491, Silica

3.00

Ronastar® Flaming Lights

Alumina (or Synthetic Sapphire), CI 77491

3.00

Ronastar® Frozen Jewel

Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Silica, CI 77891, Tin Oxide

3.00

Ronastar® Black Allure

CI 77499, Silica, CI 77891, Mica

1.00

Covapate Unired LC 3779

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, CI 15850

2.00

RonaCare® Bisabolol nat.

Bisabolol

0.40

RonaCare® AP

Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate

0.50

Fragrance Jazz Night

Parfum

0.20

Sensiva® PA 20

Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Glycerin

1.00

Crodamol ISIS-LQ-(MV)

Isostearyl Isostearate

3.00

Sebumol ODPC

Octyldodecyl PCA

4.00

Miglyol® 808

Tricaprylin

5.00

Cegesoft C 24

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

8.00

Versagel® ME 750

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylene/ Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butylene/ Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, BHT

KEEP THE FAITH With spring comes renewal and a new sense of optimism. In the middle of all the turmoil, one certitude has emerged – everyone of us wants to keep faith. Faith in our capacity for solidarity and resilience. Faith in the possibility of a better tomorrow. Faith in ourselves and the human race. And this is the theme of spring/summer 2022 – the colours of the season will reflect this faith, we will see pinks and glitters, a celebration of femininity and optimism, and glorifying art and nature in our choice of colours. An empowering, ultra-glam look with its sexy insolence is faithful majesty; this woman is an urban adventurer who only applies sophisticated products to her face and body and chooses a mix of elegant darks and flashy metallised effects. She lacquers her hair and body in gold and silver, with silver wax creating a modern helmet effect on her hair, while enhancing her body with iridescent oil-textured serum infused with gold. The colour travel pigment Xirona Moonlight Sparks creates a lunar experience with brilliant silvery-golden glitter to spark consumer interest. This offers the most sophisticated colour travel effect from metallic gold to subtle silver and creates pure luxury. Ronastar Golden Jewel is another ace up the sleeve. This pigment creates outstanding intense, glittery gold effects without the negative impact on the environment microplastics leave in their wake. As with all Ronastar Glass Flake pigments, it is possible to achieve huge impact at an exceptionally low addition rate.

COSMETIC PIGMENTS BLEND LIBRARY In a sustainable future, where nature and science fuse for the better, the modern mermaid sets off to conquer the earth’s oceans, where the power of algae and magical waters conceal a myriad of beauty secrets. This is the story of the faithful prophecy look. Avant-garde allure is inspired by the changing, iridescent light of the waves and the fascinating strangeness of marine organisms. On her lips she wears translucent, watery-textured gloss with a holographic gleam, while on her eyes jelly eyeshadow in dazzling turquoise hues complete the picture. Recreating these colours presents certain challenges for even the most experienced formulator, as effect pigment palettes,

65.90

although extensive, do not have an endless range of colours. The application and innovation team at Merck now offers the ultimate solution to this dilemma with the launch of the Vivid Muse cosmetic pigments blend library. The team has taken Merck’s range of over 100 effect pigments and created a library of 900 blends. This is easily accessible and can be used to formulate the colours needed to ensure that your brand is on trend in 2022. A prime example is the blend Cotton Candy, comprising 60% Ronastar Blue Lights and 40% Colorona SynBerry Pink, a colour completely on point for the upcoming spring/summer season. It is a pretty pastel pink shade, featuring a beautiful blue sparkle which plays in the light and creates exactly the level of sparkle and holographic effect consumers will be demanding this year. There will always be challenges but there will also always be joy to be found and colour has been one of the most powerful elements in bringing joy to the world over millennia. As formulators, we can enhance the feeling of wellbeing and wellness of countless consumers by providing safe, effective and, above all, beautiful products. • Merck – www.merck4cosmetics.com

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

HOW TO WOW

MIRAGE BRIGHT LUMINOUS RED THE NEWEST RED PEARL FOR EYE-CATCHING EFFECTS MIRAGE Bright Luminous Red is ECKART´s newest addition to its MIRAGE product line: an intense red effect pigment for natural and traditional cosmetics. MIRAGE Bright Luminous Red scores with eye-catching luster, impressive color intensity, unusual coverage, high purity and suitability for use in all sorts of color cosmetic and personal care products, including products for the eye. ECKART – Take the brilliant way. For further information please contact: IMCD South Africa (Pty) Ltd. · 275 Oak Avenue · Randburg 2125 · South Africa Phone: + 27 11 570 4260 · Fax: + 27 11 787 3513 · daniela.bloomer@imcdsa.co.za

www.eckart.net

COLOUR COSMETICS

Natural, sustainable and responsibly-sourced coloured clays With Berashades, Beraca Natural Ingredients introduces a palette of five shades of naturally coloured and sustainable clays for cosmetic use. The clays are responsibly sourced from Brazilian biomes with a focus on natural and sustainable solutions designed with ethnic-racial diversity in mind and suitable for use in makeup, skin care and hair care formulations.

ware of the relevance of its role in the personal care, perfumery and cosmetics industry, Beraca Natural Ingredients advocates and practices responsible production. Guided by the principles of sustainability, focused on the socio-biodiversity enhancement and principles of clean technology, green chemistry, sustainable extraction, zero residue and full traceability, the company invests in the development of natural ingredients with proven efficacy. These ingredients contribute to more sustainable formulas, as a viable way to promote positive social and environmental impacts on the planet. They also confirm that it is in fact possible to act on innovations through the sustainable development goals, raising awareness within the cosmetics industry with ethical commitments such as the conservation, recovery and sustainable use of ecosystems.

CLAYS THAT RESPECT ETHNIC-RACIAL DIVERSITY With many years of experience in the responsible extraction of clays, Beraca’s commitment to the creation of Berashades aims to meet the demands of the global market, addressing the triple bottom line principles of sustainability (people, planet and profit). In respect and appreciation of natural beauty and ethnic-racial diversity, the launch features a palette of five naturally coloured clays for mineral cosmetics. The shades include ivory, beige, bronze, caramel

and ebony, making it possible to mix, match and customise more than 3 000 colour combinations in celebration of the many various skin tones. Berashades also meets vegan and multifunctional claims. It allows for coverage with a natural appearance and matte effect, in addition to stable colour as a result of a simultaneous micronisation process. As a mineral ingredient, Berashades offers a detoxifying and remineralising effect. The range of clays has been designed for use in a wide range of cosmetic products, boosting the awareness of responsible production and consumption through

sustainable principles, concepts and practices. In makeup formulations, Berashades is ideal for mascara, foundation, concealer, compact powder, tanning powder and a contour palette. In hair care, it is recommended for powdered or dry coloured shampoo and root retouch products. Tanning oil, cream and moisturiser and bb and cc creams are some of the recommended skin care applications.

NEW DIGITAL FORMULATION TOOL In conjunction with the introduction of Berashades, Beraca is launching an online tool, The Berashades Mixer, which is a digital platform that allows formulators to create

Skin Barrier Protection – TEWL test: significant reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), ensuring skin integrity and greater hydration

Did you know? The number of global skin care products containing clay has grown by 27% in the last five years, reaching 819 launches in 2020. For hair care, the growth was recorded at 62% over the last two years, registering 232 new products in 2020. Source: Mintel GNPD

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Average values regarding TEWL, after four hours of Berashades applied at 10% in a liquid formulation. There was a significant decrease of TEWL in 21% of the Berashades group when compared to basal T0 * p<0.05

COLOUR COSMETICS

their own shades with simultaneous access to different levels of benefits delivered by the ingredient, such as hydration, improved skin barrier function and firmness. This technology aims to assist professionals with time-tomarket in terms of scientific precision in each of the tones created. Berashades is safe, effective and sustainable as a result of the responsible extraction from Brazilian biomes and a shared value with stakeholders through socio-environmental programmes, mainly aimed at replanting, fish farming, empowerment and women inclusion in the labour market in decent conditions. It is easy to formulate with and do not require iron oxide in order to make adjustments. It is also China-compliant and backed by International Certification for Life, which validates good social and environmental responsibility practices across the supply chain. Berashades has been efficacy-tested to substantiate the skin barrier protection and firmness claims. However, the efficacy tests include only basal, placebo and Berashades Firmness – Cutometer Test: positive effect on firmness of skin after seven consecutive days

groups at 10% since there is no benchmark for naturally coloured clays with simultaneous micronisation (a process in which the entire particulate is the same size, allowing colour stability without adding iron oxide). This fact makes Berashades unique. •

PROPERTIES AND BENEFITS OF BERASHADES: • 100% natural product • vegan and cruelty-free • promotes detoxification as the phytosilicates present in clays naturally filter impurities • remineralising • highly stable colours • softer particles • easier to formulate with • no added TiO2 • multifunctional benefits • can be combined and blended to formulate a full colour palette • matte effect • no rebound effect • enhances natural beauty with smooth and sheer coverage • velvety texture • can be used on primer • sustainable and measurable narrative and impact across the supply chain • supplied in a powder format • super fine and micronised particles (<10μm).

Average values regarding parameter R0, after seven consecutive days of Berashades applied at 10% in a liquid formulation. There was a significant decrease of R0 in 13% of the Berashades group when compared to basal T0 after seven consecutive days, indicating a firming effect * p<0.002

Beraca Natural Ingredients – www.beraca.com

Exclusive Agents in South Africa

IMCD.indd 1

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA //2021/12/15 JANUARY08:59 2022

INDUSTRY TALK

SA pharma – innovating in medicine and boosting the economy

The pharma industry offers many other benefits to South Africa. Thousands of jobs are created, training and knowledge are shared, the economy is strengthened, and investment is secured. We spoke to Bada Pharasi, CEO of IPASA, about the fundamentals of how the organisation and its member companies benefit our country in meaningful ways.

he Innovative Pharmaceutical Association South Africa (IPASA) was formed out of the need for a credible, respected association to engage with stakeholders in both the private and public sectors. IPASA comprises numerous researchbased pharmaceutical companies and focuses on building an environment for sustainable access to innovative healthcare to address unmet medical needs. South Africa’s pharma industry goes beyond providing health-promoting medicines; it also makes a substantial contribution to investment in local healthcare and ensuring continued access to new medicines. Additionally, it stimulates the local economy through employment, taxes, skills development and technology transfer.

MEDICAL INNOVATIONS IPASA member companies are dedicated to exploring, developing and bringing innovative, quality medicines to the South African market. They are also constantly developing therapies to prevent a variety of conditions previously

"The pharma industry and its associated supply chain develop and employ more than 14 000 people" considered untreatable, including infectious diseases, various forms of cancer and neurological disorders. Medicines developed by innovative pharma continue to benefit millions of South Africans on a daily basis. For example, mortality rates for HIV/AIDS and TB in the country fell by 59.2% and 55.7% between 2007 and 2017.1 Currently, at least 60 new medicines are in the research and development (R&D) pipeline to treat TB. Pharasi comments: “Today, patients are living close to normal lifespans and cancer death rates have declined by 27%. Approximately 73% of survival gains in cancer are attributable to new treatments, including medicines.”2

JOB-CREATION AND INVESTMENT In terms of human capital and knowledge building, the pharma industry and its associated supply chain develop and employ more than 14 000 people.3 “Many are in highly-skilled and wellremunerated roles, and this significantly improves economic productivity,” he says. As much as R5.5bn is spent in support of knowledge-sharing initiatives, comprising clinical research, healthcare programmes, training and social responsibility initiatives.4 Pharasi adds, “The industry invests significantly in developing its South African workforce with active talent management practices and formalised career pathways across a range of disciplines.” Manufacturing and investment are also areas in which pharmaceutical companies contribute to the country. Local production

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

is growing and valued at over R17.9bn with investment at R1.3bn. There is over R5.4bn direct contribution to the South African state budget, and R20.6bn+ revenue development for third-party suppliers to the industry. A significant contribution of R56bn is made in direct manufacturing and importation costs, and R11.1bn in indirect costs.5 Investment in knowledge transfer projects by IPASA member respondents was estimated at R82bn. Overall, operational expenditures made by the respondent multinational pharmaceutical companies between 2016 and 2021 amounted to R154.5bn+.6 South Africa has also become a regional hub for the African continent. Revenue earned by South African-based operations from neighbouring countries has grown to R4.2bn, representing 7% of sales.7

IMPROVED QUALITY OF LIFE IPASA members develop innovative medicines that save and extend lives, halt or slow disease progression, reduce side effects and improve quality of life. In addition, they create jobs, bolster the economy and make the country attractive to investors. Their contribution to South Africa is invaluable not only in terms of healthcare, but also in the upliftment of people and the advancement of the country as a whole. • REFERENCE: 1. Footprint Study March 2020. Impact of Innovative Multinational Pharmaceutical Companies Operating In South Africa – Longitudinal Study Commissioned by IPASA, p.2 2. Ibid, p.2 3. Ibid, p.6 4. Ibid, p.6 5. Ibid, p.6 6. Ibid, p.6 7. Ibid, p.6

IPASA – ipasa.co.za

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COMPRESSED AIR TECHNOLOGY

How to reduce the cost of compressed air Compressed air is one of the five forms of motive power along with electricity, water, gas and steam. In pharma manufacturing facilities, it is often used as an energy source despite it being relatively costly, much like steam. Allen Cockfield, CEO of Artic Driers, discusses how to dramatically reduce the cost of compressed air while increasing bottom-line profits by focusing on efficiencies.

nowledge equals success. COVID-19 has wrecked many companies’ profits; some are now borderline operations. With air compressors and air dryers being large consumers of energy in many companies, it pays to keep tight control of a compressor station’s power costs and the air quality that it delivers. Attention should be given to compressed air efficiency within the plant. Every part of a plant needs to operate at the peak of its efficiency levels. This leads to a more sustainable operation.

A HEALTH CHECK Compressor performance testing is now available. Artic Driers’ portable S110 Power Meter benchmarks the air flow performance of an air compressor versus its power consumption per cubic metre. This data can be compared against CAGI (Compressed Air & Gas Institute) test results, or the supplier’s data sheet. The information can also be used to determine if a compressor

should be overhauled as it’s proof of a compressor’s health status.

AIR LEAK DETECTION Air leaks are quickly identified with the use of an ultrasonic leak detector. With compressed air costing around ≥R0.13 per m³, the loss of compressed air to leaks alone can cost a company hundreds of thousands a year. A 160kW air compressor with a simple service plan when running 24/7/365, will cost up to R1.5m per annum to operate. A 20% leak loss will likely cost R300 000 per year. The costs of leak losses can easily be avoided with ultrasonic leak detection and flow meters, which quickly identify leaks. The S531 ultrasonic leak gun locates the leak, grades the severity, provides an accurate cost of the leak and the volume of air. It even writes a management report. It is essential to overall efficiency that air leakage in the distribution system does not bleed bottom-line profits.

COMPRESSED AIR QUALITY Poor quality compressed air will inevitably mean that production will be affected. The efficiency of robotics and pneumatics will suffer. Automation systems will be impaired and equipment life cycles will be shortened.

TIPS FOR A MORE EFFICIENT SYSTEM

1. Use a suitable air dryer and filtration system to remove water, oils and other contaminants from the air lines. 2. If a twin-tower heatless pressure swing dryer is used, fit a dewpoint controller to reduce purge air wastage. 3. Don’t run compressors at a higher pressure than necessary – it’s a power waster. 4. Design the ring main with a view of long-term expansion, minimal corrosion, system condensate drainage and low pressure drops. 5. Reduce air line pressure drops, ensure distribution lines are rings mains and that they are big enough for the flow rates. 6. Fit inline filters sparingly as they can cause pressure drops; rather concentrate on decontamination in the compressor room. 7. Ensure air speeds are kept low as this reduces pressure drops. 8. Perform air leak audits every three months. 9. Benchmark production lines with air flow meters to ensure proper use of compressed air. 10. Eliminate the improper use of compressed air.

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

COMPRESSED AIR TECHNOLOGY

Did you know? Artic Driers has the ability to test compressed air quality inline with ISO 8573 standards, using portable or fixed-base station equipment. The company also provides compressed air leak audits and dew point and flow tests.

Unplanned outages will also be the norm with poor quality compressed air. Therefore, appropriate compressed air

Efficiency, minimising waste, reducing downtime and stopping unplanned outages are all key to reducing the cost of compressed

quality is essential to avoid these outages. Compressed air contamination increases compressed air wastage as drain traps and drain legs are left open to purge water and oils from the compressed air distribution system.

air while ensuring long-term company sustainability and increased profitability.

compressed air treatment industry. The company represents a broad range of OEM suppliers and operates from a spacious distribution and manufacturing base situated near OR Tambo International Airport. With stocks exceeding R4.1m, every effort is made to maintain consistent supplies in a world that has been turned upside down by COVID-19 and civil unrest. To provide faster turnaround times and increase local employment, Artic Driers now produces the Sahara Series of air dryers in South Africa. This comprehensive range of heatless pressure swing air dryers are costeffective and built tough for use in the most demanding environments throughout Africa. •

LOCALLY-PRODUCED AIR DRYERS Artic Driers is a family-owned and operated company with a 30-year history in the

Artic Driers – www.articdriers.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2022

COMPRESSED AIR TECHNOLOGY

Ultima is CompAir’s ground-breaking oil-free PureAir screw compressor with a unique design

How to manage compressed air risks in critical settings The pharmaceutical industry is one of the most heavily regulated industries in the world. Rajesh Fotedar, product manager for oil-free industrial compressors at CompAir, discusses how to manage compressed air risks in pharma manufacturing environments. He also highlights how oil-free systems can ensure cleanrooms and clean manufacturing operations in general meet the required industry standards for hygiene and production.

ompressed air is used extensively in all manufacturing sectors. However, in certain applications such as pharmaceutical, it is crucial that the compressed air is completely free of all contaminants. This includes oil, moisture and particulates. Contaminant-free compressed air is also a requirement for the air supply to cleanrooms, where exceptionally stringent hygiene regulations apply. Where a cleanroom is used, manufacturing operations must adhere to guidelines such as those outlined in International Standard ISO:14644, Cleanrooms and controlled environments Part 1: Classification of air cleanliness, and Part 2: Specifications for testing and monitoring to prove compliance with ISO:14644-1. To achieve compliance, manufacturers can employ the latest compressed air technology, such as certified Class 0 oil-free compressors, to ensure their processes remain contaminant-free. From laboratories through to extruders, bottling plants, tablet presses and packaging processes, compressed air is used in a wide range of pharmaceutical applications. In many of these processes, compressed air

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Did you know? Oil-free technology is ideal to help businesses meet their ambitious sustainability goals. Deciding on an oil-free solution provides the most ecoconscious choice, helping to contribute towards a facility’s green credentials. will come into direct contact with products, such as when drying equipment parts, transporting substances through tubes, and when compressed air is used as a pressure blanket for solutions in tanks. Many of these processes operate 24/7, so it is critical to ensure the right compressor is specified. Likewise, in some cases, cleanrooms and associated controlled environments need to be set up to ensure factors such as pressure, humidity, temperature and the concentration of airborne particles are adequately controlled.

A NECESSARY ASSESSMENT The pharmaceutical industry is diverse and one where several activities are regularly undertaken. These include the manufacture of products, quality control and R&D in

CompAir offers a comprehensive range of oil-free, pure air compressors that meet the highest quality standards and deliver outstanding efficiency, from the DH range to pioneering Ultima technology

laboratories. Protecting products from contamination by particles and microorganisms is vital, which is why clean manufacturing operations and maintaining sterile environments such as that provided by a cleanroom, are so important. This allows for

COMPRESSED AIR TECHNOLOGY

"Oil-free technology not only helps site managers make valuable cost savings but also improves operational efficiencies"

the concentration of airborne particles to be strictly controlled. Within any pharma manufacturing environment, a risk analysis should be undertaken to help stop or minimise any contamination issues from arising. This will cover considerations such as whether the compressed air application involves direct or indirect contact with products and the volume of compressed air required. Manufacturers also need to consider whether there are any other potential contaminants associated with a compressed air system – such as particles or oil – and whether the product being manufactured is sensitive to moisture.

CONTAMINANT CONSIDERATIONS Any form of compressed air will contain particles of contaminants. These can potentially stop a pneumatic system from performing as expected and could even lead to quality issues. This is a particular risk if the process air comes into contact with the manufactured goods. The intake air is susceptible to contamination from almost any kind of particles, from pollen, dust and hydrocarbons to heavy metals such as lead, cadmium or mercury. Crucially, many often fail to take into account how particle concentrations in a system increase when compressed air is generated. There is also the very real danger that blow-off air from a pneumatic system may come into direct contact with a product, contaminating pharma formulas due to the particle density involved. Another risk is that the company may inadvertently introduce errors at the specification stage, by not undertaking a comprehensive enough review of what’s required from a compressed air

system. Furthermore, a poorly designed compressor and pipework can have serious consequences, resulting in significant costs to remedy further down the line. Pipework leaks, for instance, are the leading cause of energy loss in industrial air systems, potentially wasting as much as 20% to 30% of a compressor’s output.

OPTING FOR OIL-FREE When it comes to meeting the air purity demands of a pharma manufacturing environment, there are a range of options available. Oil-lubricated models use filtration systems. Although these models can provide the right standard of compressed air needed for pharma sites, they do require the oil separator elements and downstream filters to be replaced, which adds to ongoing costs. Alternatively, there is oil-free technology. By their very design, these systems are focused on keeping oil particles out of the compressor and offer a whole host of benefits, particularly for manufacturing sites that only need a starting pressure of 10 bar. With few pharmaceutical production processes requiring higher pressure levels than an oil-free system could offer, oil-free technology is an ideal solution for these manufacturing facilities. There are a number of different oil-free compressed air technologies to choose from. These include: • scroll technology, consisting of an orbiting, rotating scroll and fixed scroll housing, which together create compression chambers • water-injected rotary screw products, which use water to lubricate, seal and cool the compression process. Ultimately, the best solution will depend on a site’s needs and demands. Oil-free technology not only helps site managers make valuable cost savings but also improves operational efficiencies.

Whole life-cycle expenses are reduced, with businesses able to save on the cost of oil replacement. Unlike oil-lubricated systems that require oil change intervals throughout their service life, there is no need to purchase equipment that would clean and separate oil from air, such as oil separators, filtration equipment and condensate treatment.

MAINTENANCE MATTERS Taking a strategic approach to maintenance plans delivers peace of mind for owners and manufacturers operating in sensitive production environments. An appropriate maintenance schedule ensures a consistent supply of contaminant-free compressed air and helps businesses to reduce costs, improve operational efficiencies, limit downtime and increase productivity levels. For example, once a system is established, it is vital that genuine spare parts and lubricants are used. Non-genuine spare parts and lubricants are typically cheaper than a manufacturer’s original parts and, when decision-makers are trying to reduce costs, it can be tempting to opt for these. Nevertheless, it is widely accepted that using non-genuine alternatives can be detrimental to a compressed air system’s overall performance. Genuine parts will have passed stringent testing standards in a qualitycontrolled environment, to help ensure a system continues to operate reliably. The same is true of genuine lubricants; these are formulated with additives to help improve a compressor’s performance and are optimised to work with all of the system’s component parts. This ensures the correct lubrication, cooling and anti-wear qualities are maintained. Non-genuine lubricants can potentially place extra demands on the filter element, resulting in dust and other particles meeting internal compressor components. If the requirement is for oil-free compressed air in the manufacturing environment, appropriately maintained oil-free compressor technology is ideal for production-sensitive environments – particularly in the pharmaceutical industry and for all cleanroom applications in general. • CompAir – www.compair.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2022

PHARMA FOCUS: ANALYTICAL & LAB SERVICES

Laboratory automation and cloud solutions installed at Hersol

Accuracy, efficiency and repeatability are fundamental to the success of any laboratory. For every measurement made, there is an actual value the lab professionals are trying to obtain. This is why Hersol is upgrading its laboratory technology for a more automated approach to testing and to improve efficiency across the board. By Abby Vorster

ver the years, Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Hersol) has developed its manufacturing facility in Jeppestown, Gauteng, to include a fully-equipped microbiology lab and a quality control lab for finished products. The company specialises in developing and producing complementary medicines (CAMs), nutritional supplements and pharmaceuticals, and is one of South Africa’s leading contract manufacturers.

"Hersol is going full speed ahead with full-scale digitalisation efforts throughout its facility" At the end of 2021, Hersol purchased a Bruker FT-IR to enhance current test methods used for the identification and confirmation of raw materials and finished products. This industry leading Germany made laboratory equipment has increased accuracy and productivity within the quality control lab as a simple verification of the signature or fingerprint of a chemical substance takes no more than a minute. The quality control lab will also be adding to its number of portable Raman spectrometers

for the identification and qualification of incoming raw materials and packaging materials with goal of enhanced repeatability of results as well as increased productivity. Raman spectroscopy has a number of significant advantages over other techniques. Because the technique requires no, or minimal, sample preparation, the Raman spectrometer can be implemented as a portable, handheld, device allowing for a “point and shoot” spectrum acquisition.

AUTOMATED MICROBIOLOGICAL TESTING Hersol has also invested in a CertaBlue System in the microbiology lab for rapid microbiological testing. This imported system provides accurate microbiological answers with a completely automated approach and has done away with the need to wait days for completed assays. This has allowed Hersol to reduce the number of release days for ingredients and finished products from five to two, once again improving turnaround time and speed to market for customers. Since installing the CertaBlue System, Hersol has improved efficiencies in the micro lab while consistently achieving reliable results for all microbiological testing. The efficiency will be further augmented in the near future with the purchase of an The Bruker FT-IR

The CertaBlue System

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Hersol’s microbiology lab

automated air sampling unit. Broad-spectrum quality analysis of active air has become increasingly important in pharmaceutical facilities, particularly within the primary manufacturing area and secondary plant areas.

MOVING TO THE CLOUD Another progressive development at Hersol has been the installation of UPS technology and backup generators for all computerised lab equipment, which is now backed up to the cloud. Using a cloud-based network platform not only ensures data integrity but also allows the manufacturer to move away from being a heavily paper-based business. Furthermore, the backup generators ensure that load-shedding never results in downtime at Hersol, be it in the labs or on a production line. Data integrity is fundamental to pharmaceutical product development and manufacturing, as it helps to provide confidence in the data collected and ensures the efficacy, quality and safety of the products produced by Hersol. Data integrity is also crucial to secure trust between the manufacturer, regulator, its customers and their consumers. Improvements in manufacturing and laboratory efficiencies can be directly correlated to the advances in technology that support those processes, which is why Hersol is going full speed ahead with full-scale digitalisation efforts throughout its facility. • Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories – www.hersol.co.za

Contract manufacturers for the pharmaceu�cal and complementary medicines markets Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories has been opera�ng for 40 years, and is a key player in the complementary medicine manufacturing arena in South Africa. Hersol manufactures a wide range of products in various dosage forms: including tablets – single and double layer, coated and uncoated (sugar and film coa�ng), effervescent tablets, capsules, powders, topical prepara�ons such as; creams, gels, ointments and lo�ons, syrups and liquids. Hersol prides itself on quality assured products, which have undergone various compliance checkpoints. Hersol does in addi�on to the manufacturing of complementary pharmaceu�cal products, also offers Contract Packing. Pack sizes include 30s, 60s, 120s, 180s and even 200s. Hersol’s Research and Development Department plays an important role in the development of new products as well as upgrading of current products. We can manage the whole process from concept to final product ready for sale. Hersol is proud to note that it has a fully accredited Laboratory, with an instrument room with HPLC’s, AA, GC, final product tes�ng equipment, as well as a comprehensive Microbiological laboratory. Hersol is registered with: • South African Health Products Regulatory Authority • South African Department of Health • South African Pharmacy Council • Health Product Associa�on – HPA • Self Care Associa�on of South Africa • Cosme�cs, Toiletries and Fragrances Associa�on • FDA Food Facility

40 years of excellence

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2 fax: +27 11 614 4615 email: enquiries@hersol.co.za

web: www.hersol.co.za

PHARMA FOCUS: ANALYTICAL & LAB SERVICES

Automated chemistry enables innovation at lab chemicals business

Technological developments such as automated chemistry, which is phasing out wet chemistry, is transforming the way laboratory chemical businesses operate. At ACE Chemicals, a homegrown supplier of laboratory chemicals, consumables and all related laboratory requirements, the development has presented an opportunity for an entirely new product range to add to its 1 600 line items ex stock.

ccording to Associated Chemical Enterprises (ACE Chemicals), its stockholding is unmatched in the industry, which gives customers confidence that the company is able to meet all of their requirements. ACE Chemicals is also the agent for Carlo Erba Reagents of Italy, the first manufacturer of laboratory reagents in France, where it has two production plants, and its headquarters in Milan. With these and other longstanding relationships forged with many overseas suppliers, the local company has access to the latest emerging technologies and products. Its approach to customers, especially those going out to tender, is to encourage them to conduct site visits to verify the claims made by competitors, especially the smaller players. Once they have compared ACE Chemicals and its state-of-the-art facilities to others, they will see that the company is leaps and bounds ahead of the competition. Such is the company’s confidence in its preeminent role in the laboratory chemical industry that ACE Chemicals has rolled out a new website that is not only user-friendly, but also packed with technical information.

ONGOING TRAINING AND ACCREDITATION ACE Chemicals’ slogan is “quality without compromise”, underpinned by it becoming the first chemical

As a leading homegrown supplie, ACE Chemicals has 1 600 line items ex stock

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Did you know? ACE Chemicals was established in 1988 and has retained a leading role since then. It operates out of a high-tech facility based in Johannesburg and upholds a reputation for providing an unprecedented level of customer service. This continues to set ACE Chemicals apart in the market.

repacking company to obtain triple accreditation: namely SABS ISO 9001 (quality systems), SABS ISO 14001 (environmental systems) and SABS ISO 45001 (health and safety systems).

"ACE Chemicals has rolled out a new website that is not only user-friendly, but also packed with technical information" ISO accreditation automatically indicates a company is on par with global standards and facilitates trade with international customers. ACE Chemicals will never compromise on quality and supplies only the best quality products backed by certificates of analysis. As a triple SABS ISO accredited company, ongoing training is critical, with monthly training programmes and refresher courses being held not only to improve skills, but also to multi-skill all employees. This means workers can confidently carry out a variety of roles at the company, from first aiders to firefighters, packers, pickers, machinery operators and hazardous chemical drivers. In keeping with its quality objectives, the company controls every facet of supplying world-class products, from packing and

Automated chemistry opens up whole new product range for laboratory chemicals business, ACE Chemicals

labelling facilities to sales, delivery and marketing. The main advantage of this single point of contact approach is that we are not reliant on any third-party suppliers.

QUALITY PRODUCTS AND A LONG-STANDING TEAM ACE Chemicals is dedicated to serving the chemical industry with an emphasis on highgrade specialty chemicals imported from globally-accredited suppliers, which focus on quality control. Latest company highlights include launching of its own personalised grades Platinum (Pt), Gold (Au) and Silver (Ag) and upgrading its software with a personalised programme that automatically calculates suggested pallet packing to comply with incompatibility and transport regulations and is also able to calculate gross and net weights and volumes and number of packages and/ or pallets which assists clients in obtaining accurate transport costs. The MD himself has 40 years’ experience in the chemical field, with the top management (general manager, operations manager, production manager and sales manager) having a cumulative 200 years’ experience in the laboratory chemicals market. ACE Chemicals also has a high employee retention rate, with many staff having served loyally for more than 25 years. •

ACE Chemicals – www.acechem.co.za

PHARMA FOCUS: ANALYTICAL & LAB SERVICES

Developing pain medication with fewer side effects Pain relief is a critical issue in medicine, but effective pain management is often overlooked. Opiates like morphine and codeine provide many patients with relief, from the ache felt after mild surgery to chronic pain experienced by cancer patients. However, this type of medication can have multiple side effects and long-term use may lead to physical dependency. Improving pain medication would help millions of people to have a better quality of life.

r Ken Ng, a professor at the University of Windsor and adjunct professor at the University of Calgary (UCalgary), and Sam Carr, a PhD student from UCalgary, have been working with Dr Peter Facchini’s group at UCalgary to better understand how natural opiates are produced. The team has narrowed their focus on one enzyme in the last stage of opiate assembly, a process that occurs naturally in the poppy plant. “Imagine this – sort of like an assembly line,” Carr said. “There are a lot of different steps in the specific pathway, Dr Ken Ng and each enzyme contributes a different step from the starting product to the finished drug.”

ENSURING BETTER EFFICACY AND REDUCED SIDE EFFECTS Carr and Dr Ng are looking at the enzyme responsible for the last step in the production of the drug codeine.

Using the CMCF beamline, located at the Canadian Light Source (CLS) at the University of Saskatchewan, Dr Ng and Carr were able to image the structure of this unique enzyme.

"You could modify these drugs in a specific way to produce different versions that could possibly have different pharmaceutical properties" The structural analysis gave the team ideas for how to modify the natural enzymes to ultimately create drugs that are more effective or have fewer side effects than natural opiates. This is part of Dr Ng and Carr’s long-term programme goals.

Did you know? The CLS at the University of Saskatchewan is a national research facility, producing the brightest light in Canada – millions of times brighter than even the sun. One of the largest science projects in the history of Canada, annually the CLS hosts more than 1 000 scientists from around the world who use the light to conduct ground-breaking health, agricultural, environmental and advanced materials research.

Structure of the enzyme studied, a molecule of codeine and a seed capsule from an opium poppy (by Sam Carr)

“If you could have this sort of understanding for many different enzymes, you could have a type of toolbox,” Carr explained. “You could modify these drugs in a specific way to produce different versions that could possibly have different pharmaceutical properties.”

Sam Carr

RESEARCH DRIVEN BY SYNCHROTRON TECHNOLOGY As Dr Ng and Carr learn more about the structure and function of these enzymes, they can also transfer this knowledge to other natural drug syntheses, including enzymes that help produce anti-microbial drugs and other medicinal compounds. “There is a really rich diversity of applications for these compounds,” Dr Ng said. “This structure provides information, not just about opioid biosynthesis, but also natural products that include other classes of painkillers and medicinal applications like cancer treatment.” The team’s protein crystallography research would not be possible without the use of synchrotron technology. “Due to the specific challenges with this particular project, I think it would have been impossible to solve this structure without a synchrotron,” Dr Ng concluded. • Canadian Light Source – www.lightsource.ca

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2022

ASSOCIATION NEWS

PRESS RELEASE FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Collection and recycling rates decline in 2020, says Plastics SA Plastic industry market sectors:

South Africa’s plastics industry is dominated by the packaging sector (which accounts for roughly 52 % of the local market), followed by building & construction (13 %), agriculture (9 %), automotive and transport applications (7 %).

Due to increased awareness of hygiene caused by the outbreak of the Covid-19 pandemic, the demand for flexible packaging increased by 2 % in 2020. Demand for rigid packaging (linked to on-the-go meals, PET beverage bottles and take-away containers) shrunk, although packaging used for domestic- and personal care increased due to the greater emphasis on cleaning and the increased demand for hand sanitisers. Packaging sheeting was also used to manufacture face shields locally. Consumption of virgin and recycled plastics in SA:

South Africa, like most countries around the world, witnessed a decline in collection and recycling rates during 2020, compared to pre-COVID-19 rates. In addition, many recyclers were unable to operate at full capacity for several months during the past year due to social distancing norms. Other factors that adversely affected the plastic recycling activities include ongoing loadshedding, water shortages and high labour costs which forced many operations to scale down, or even close their doors permanently.

At the end of 2021, Plastics SA, the umbrella body representing the local plastics industry, released the official plastic recycling stats for the year ending 31 December 2020. Each year, data is collected from plastics recyclers around the country by Plastix 911 on behalf of Plastics SA. PETCO provides figures from its listed PET recyclers, whilst raw material suppliers Sasol and Safripol provide input on the production and domestic demand of plastics raw materials. 

 

South Africa converted 1 739 480 tons of polymer into plastics products during 2020, a decrease of 5.6 % from 2019. This is the total amount of locally produced polymers, imported polymers and recycled polymers sold to local convertors in South Africa, and excludes polymers exported, virgin and recycled. Locally recycled polymer represented 17 % of the total domestic consumption, a drop from 18.3 % in the previous year. Per capita consumption for locally converted plastics (virgin and recycled) decreased to 29 kg/person (down from 31 kg/person recorded in 2019). Per capita consumption for virgin material only, dropped from 26 kg to 24 kg. Virgin consumption has increased by 11 % since 2011, whilst recycled tonnages, locally converted, increased by 35 % over the same 10 year period.

Plastic recycling in SA

South Africa recorded an input recycling rate of 43.2 % during 2020. 461 500 tons of plastic waste were collected for recycling, of which 312 600 tons were successfully recycled back into raw materials. 296 500 tons of recyclate were used to produce new products while 97 260 tons of recyclate were used to produce new packaging. more 2/…

outh Africa’s plastics industry is dominated by the packaging sector (which accounts for roughly 52% of the local market), followed by building and construction (13%), agriculture (9%), and automotive and transport applications (7%). Due to increased awareness of hygiene caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, the demand for flexible packaging increased 2% in 2020. Demand reduced for rigid packaging (linked to on-the-go meals, PET beverage bottles and take-away containers), although packaging used for home care and personal care increased due to the greater emphasis on cleaning and the increased demand for hand sanitisers. Packaging sheeting was also used to manufacture face shields locally.

CONSUMPTION OF VIRGIN AND RECYCLED PLASTICS South Africa, like most countries worldwide, witnessed a decline in collection and recycling rates during 2020, compared to pre-COVID-19 rates. In addition, many recyclers were unable to operate at full capacity for several months during 2020 due to the hard lockdown and social distancing requirements. Other factors that adversely affected the plastic recycling activities were loadshedding, water shortages and high labour costs. These have forced many operations to scale down, or even close their doors permanently. South Africa converted 1 739 480 tonnes of polymer into plastics products during 2020, a decrease of 5.6% from 2019. This is

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

the total amount of locally-produced polymers, imported polymers and recycled polymers sold to local convertors, and excludes polymers exported, virgin and recycled. Locally-recycled polymer represented 17% of the total domestic consumption, a drop from 18.3% in the previous year. Per capita consumption for locally-converted plastics (virgin and recycled) decreased to 29kg/person (down from

"South Africa converted 1 739 480 tonnes of polymer into plastics products during 2020, a decrease of 5.6% from 2019" 31kg/person recorded in 2019). Per capita consumption of virgin material only dropped from 26kg to 24kg. Virgin consumption increased by 11% since 2011, whilst recycled tonnages, converted locally, increased by 35% in the same 10-year period.

LOCAL RECYCLING OF PLASTIC South Africa recorded an input recycling rate of 43.2% during 2020. A total of 461 500t of plastic waste was collected for recycling, of which 312 600t were successfully recycled back into raw materials. Exactly 296 500t of recyclate was used to produce new

products while 97 260t of recyclate was used to produce new packaging. In an attempt to improve the quality of the incoming recyclables while reducing their high recycling cost due to contamination, an increasing number of recyclers have started going directly to the waste generators. This allowed them access to cleaner materials and to maintain their margins, albeit at lower quantities. A total of 64% of the incoming waste came from landfill and other postconsumer sources. Of this, the majority of the volume (54%) was sourced from the formal sector, collectors and waste management companies. Most plastics were baled, but some were also loose materials. Post-industrial materials

ASSOCIATION NEWS

PRESS RELEASE FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

PLASTICS INDUSTRY RELEASES LATEST RECYCLING FIGURES Johannesburg, 22 November 2021. Plastics SA, the umbrella body representing the local plastics industry, has just released the official plastic recycling statistics for the year ending 31 December 2020. Each year, data is collected from plastics recyclers around the country by Plastix 911 on behalf of Plastics SA. PETCO provides figures from their listed PET recyclers, whilst raw material suppliers Sasol and Safripol provide input on the production and domestic demand of plastics raw materials. Plastic industry market sectors: South Africa’s plastics industry is dominated by the packaging sector (which accounts for roughly 52 % of the local market), followed by building & construction (13 %), agriculture (9 %), automotive and transport applications (7 %). Due to increased awareness of hygiene caused by the outbreak of the Covid-19 pandemic, the demand for flexible packaging increased by 2 % in 2020. Demand for rigid packaging (linked to on-the-go meals, PET beverage bottles and take-away containers) shrunk, although packaging used for domestic- and personal care increased due to the greater emphasis on cleaning and the increased demand for hand sanitisers. Packaging sheeting was also used to manufacture face shields locally.

Did you know?

Consumption of virgin and recycled plastics in SA:

In 2020, recycling of plastic waste saved 213 500t of CO2 – equivalent to the emissions generated by 45 000 cars.



accounted for 18% of the waste. This was sourced from distribution centres, shopping centres, farming communities and other waste generators.

"Brand owners and retailers have committed to using recycled content in packaging" Although very critical to the value chain, only 3.6% of recyclables were obtained directly from waste pickers and walk-ins. A further 6% was collected from drop-off facilities and buyback centres.

END-MARKETS FOR PLASTIC RECYCLATE

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rotational moulded tanks and meet a myriad functional and aesthetic Plastic recycling in SA borehole liners to animal feeding demands, from drinking clean water, South Africa recorded an input recycling rate of 43.2 % during 2020. 461 500 tons of plastic waste were collected for recycling, of which 312 600 tons were successfully recycled back into raw materials. and water troughs. playing sport, staying connected, 296 500 tons of recyclate were used to produce new products while 97 260 tons of recyclate were used to produce new packaging. Other major markets for recycled enjoying home comforts and the more 2/… plastics in South Africa include clothing efficiency of clean mobility, to helping us and footwear (14%) and the building to live longer and healthier lives. and construction markets (12%), Plastics can be re-used, refilled, where recycled plastics are used in recycled and, finally, the captured builders’ film, geotextiles and composite energy can be recovered when plastics building panels.

REMARKABLE MATERIALS Over the last century, plastics have offered innovative solutions to society’s permanently evolving needs and challenges. Versatile, durable and incredibly adaptable, plastics are remarkable materials with science and innovation in their DNA. Nowadays, they allow us to

can no longer be re-used. However, it is of vital importance to ensure that all stakeholders in the value chain collaborate and co-design sustainable product management principles, which will ensure a complete circular life cycle for plastics. •

Readers may order a complete copy of the 2020 Plastics Recycling Report. Visit www.plasticsinfo.co.za for more information or send an e-mail to Dianne.Blumberg@plasticssa.co.za

Suitable end-markets are critical for the sustainability of the plastics recycling industry. Markets for recyclate exist in most local sectors. Only 5.2% of the recyclate was exported as raw material to plastics convertors in the SADC region and Asia. Brand owners and retailers have committed to using recycled content in packaging. Although currently only recycled PET (rPET) is suitable for food contact applications; recycled PP, PELD and PE-HD are used in non-food applications such as personal care and home care product packaging. Recycled flexible packaging was the largest market for recyclate in 2020. A total of 22% of all recycled materials were used to manufacture products such as shopping bags, refuse bags and general flexible packaging. Agricultural applications, which make use of recycled plastics, accounted for 14% of the market, ranging from irrigation pipes,

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2022

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Sustainability a prominent focus of packaging industry awards The 2021 Gold Pack Awards ceremony was held as a limited attendance function in November. The event was also streamed live on Zoom, and video content of the medal winners is available for viewing on Gold Pack website, as well as on the Institute of Packing SA’s YouTube channel.

ince 1973, the Gold Pack Awards programme has been the showcase of the very best of the packaging industry. All the finalists are awarded medals with Gold, Silver and Bronze medals awarded to the top three winners in each category. All entries achieving finalist status as well as the medal winners qualify for entry into the international WPO WorldStar Awards. Winning any Gold Pack medal is held in high esteem by the packaging industry. However, the competition for the top spot is always intense. The Gold Pack Trophy winner for 2021 was Mpact Versapak for the PETZorb meat tray, the design of which uses the physics of fluid surface tension to hold excess fluids in the specifically designed pockets of the base of the tray. This replaces the need for absorbency soaker pads in fresh meat, poultry and seafood products removing an estimated 20m pads that would inevitably end up on landfill.

COSMETICS, HEALTH AND PHARMA CATEGORY Although the overall number of entries was encouraging, the Health, Beauty, Medical & Pharmaceutical category was surprisingly small. Stand-out medal winners in this

Mousson packaging and label supplied by Siyakha Imperial Printing

category were Green Energy Packaging and Velobiotics for the kraft core packs utilising bull-nose technology. These packs went on to win a WorldStar Award in the WPO international awards programme. Other winners were t3 Plastic Packaging for the Playboy Shower Wash Tottle and Siyakha Imperial Printing for the Mousson pack. These Amka brands were joined in the medal winners honours by the entire Playboy range which was recognised as an effective “family of packs” requiring co-ordinated effort from the pack’s designers, Sainsbury Design and all the packaging convertors involved.

NO “FREE” PASSES The Gold Pack Awards programme strives to benchmark the packaging industry against global technological developments, as well as to recognise outstanding packaging design. This includes the packaging’s fit-for purpose considering construction, graphics, convenience, product protection and ecological impact. This goal places a great responsibility on the judging panel. Judges need to carefully consider each entry and evaluate the conditions and challenges faced in its production. No one gets a “free” pass – the debate is intense, which means that any pack achieving finalist status can be justifiably proud of the achievement. This year’s panel of judges included Andy Rice, Annabé Pretorius, Charles Muller, Gill Loubser, Gunnar Sigge, Kishan Singh, Ralph von Veh, Shabeer Jhetam and Vanessa von

Holdt. The judging process was undertaken in two stages, overseen, and facilitated by Bill Marshall. The judges were required to pre-score every entry across a range of criteria before the panel gathered in hybrid meeting sessions to debate and rank each one.

WHAT MAKES A WINNER The attributes of entries submitted tend to reflect current market conditions. In 2021, the tough economic climate, continued focus on sustainability, particularly recyclability, extended producer responsibility, and the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic featured strongly. The Institute of Packaging SA is grateful for the incredible support received from the industry – as entrants in the competition, as sponsors and to all who show an interest in the programme. For those who win awards, it is a major publicity-gaining moment, a company morale booster and it provides creditability in the marketplace.

GOLD PACK AND AFRISTAR COMBINED This year, the Gold Pack Awards will include the AfriStar Awards, which is the continentwide awards programme run on behalf of the African Packaging Organisation for packaging produced anywhere on the continent of Africa. This will give the Gold Pack awards a bigger international audience and more prestige than ever before, making the 2022 programme the “not to be missed” packaging industry event of the year. Entries will open in March 2022. Your packs should be there. • Gold Pack Awards – www.goldpack.org.za Velobiotics kraft core packs supplied by Green Energy Packaging

Playboy Shower Wash Tottle supplied by t3 Plastic Packaging

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Training – the essence of transformation In the words of Henry Ford, founder of Ford Motor Company: “The only thing worse than training your employees and having them leave is not training them and having them stay.” The flavour and fragrance industry in South Africa is a relatively small one, with a limited pool of personnel which moves around within the industry. Training is key in retaining employees and keeping them productive and engaged, writes Sharon Bolel, assistant executive director, SAAFFI.

n conversation with some of the industry’s people, training opportunities within a company are often the “carrot” that attracts excellent staff. The very specific nature of the skills-set required in the flavour and fragrance industry means that suitable courses are generally unavailable as generic training. SAAFFI has identified an important objective: “to encourage the dissemination of information and knowledge about the flavour and fragrance industry through seminars, workshops and information sessions”. Some of the training initiatives of the association are: • Precise Short Training Courses (PSTCs), which give attendees a good overview of a specific topic and are presented by an expert in the respective field. Interaction between the attendees and trainer is encouraged and facilitated. PSTCs also offer an inexpensive training option. • The Short Course in Flavours & Fragrances is a concise yet comprehensive course comprising 12 lectures and three hands-on practical sessions, organised in conjunction with the School of Chemistry at Wits University. The course offers an overview of the intriguing world of flavour and fragrance.

It is offered to delegates from industry and to second year applied chemistry students at Wits. The 2021 short course was generously sponsored by Shimadzu SA. Mark Pieterse of Shimadzu SA commented: “We are thrilled to support this course which we view as an excellent starting point for people wanting a career in the flavour, fragrance or allied industries.”

NUMERACY COURSES TO UPSKILL PROFESSIONALS Numeracy in South Africa has been highlighted as an area of concern, needing proactive change-management. How much more so for those working with numbers, who are expected to provide accurate information. SAAFFI’s numeracy courses facilitate the up-skilling of companies’ most valuable assets, their employees. Basic, intermediate and advanced options are available to suit the knowledge level of the participants. These courses are created for industry staff, who often struggle with aspects of numeracy including weighing, using a calculator, percentages, basic financial calculations etc. Customised training in other relevant topics can be arranged for SAAFFI member companies on almost any topic of their choice. The association boasts a wide array of trainers and training material, and live and online options are available.

ACTIVELY MAKING A CHANGE In my own long and interesting career, I benefitted most from training which was focused and short. I loved interacting with trainers and was attracted to career opportunities within companies that

prioritised training. Affordability was always important for me, and I was often unable to find the specific training I needed in mainstream education.

"SAAFFI is making a huge difference with its training initiatives, not only in our industry, but in a much wider world" When planning the SAAFFI training initiatives I tried to bear these factors in mind and offer programmes that would have attracted me as an engaged, career-minded professional. My passion stems from the fact that SAAFFI is making a huge difference with its training initiatives, not only in our industry, but in a much wider world impacted by FMCG products containing flavours and fragrances. In the words of our beloved, late President Nelson Mandela: “Education is the most powerful weapon which you can use to change the world.” I believe that SAAFFI is doing more than its share towards a goal of a changed country and world. SAAFFI, the South African Association of the Flavour & Fragrance Industry, is making a concerted effort to ensure that this bleak scenario is avoided in its industry sector! For more details, contact events@saaffi.co.za. •

SAAFFI – www.saaffi.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2022

Tea

time Take a breather

TEST YOUR GENERAL KNOWLEDGE: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.

What’s the biggest animal in the world? How many times has Andy Murray won Wimbledon playing singles? Which country is brie cheese originally from? Who painted the Mona Lisa? Which planet is closest to the sun? What is Queen Elizabeth II’s surname? How many valves does the heart have? What nut is in the middle of a Ferrero Rocher? What is a baby rabbit called? What fruit takes the scientific name Mangifera indica? What does He stand for on the periodic table? What does LGBTQ stand for? Who invented the World Wide Web in 1990? What does a Geiger Counter measure? What is the smallest country in the world?

The blue whale; twice – in 2013 against Novak Djokovic and in 2016 against Milos Raonic; France; Leonardo da Vinci; Mercury; Windor – her full name is Elizabeth Alexandra Mary Windsor; four – the mitral, tricuspid, aortic and pulmonic valves; hazelnut; a kit; mango; helium; lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender and questioning (or queer); Tim Berners-Lee; Radiation; Vatican City

Answers:

contact

To advertise in Anita Raath

Carla Melless

Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

+27 (0)83 260 6060

www.pharmacos.co.za

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

ADVERTISERS' INDEX Artic Driers..............................................31........www.articdriers.co.za

IMCD SA ..................................................25........www.eckart.net

Croda SA.................................................IFC........www.sederma.com

Merck........................................................23........www.merckgroup.com

Essential Specialised Products.......17........www.esp-sa.co.za

Moco Packaging ..................................... 5........www.mocopack.co.za

Evonik Africa..........................................21........www.evonik.com/personal-care /

Symrise SA ..........................................OFC........www.symrise.com

www.botanica.ch Hersol Manufacturing Lab ...............35........www.hersol.co.za

JANUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Vantage Specialty Chemicals ..........15........www.vantagegrp.com

ONLINE

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ website will find information on membership, educational programmes (specific details pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the personal care industry.

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

www.coschem.co.za

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers, plastic containers,

analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,

closures and packaging accessories.

Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Phone: +27 (0) 11 661 7914 Cell: +27 (0) 81 399 9737 E-mail: peter.moopeloa@bureauveritas.com

BOTANICHEM

FORMPAK For over 50 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical,

BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the

food and dairy industries.

appropriate ingredient, at the right price.

Tel: +27 (0) 11 828 8870/1/2 Fax: +27 (0) 11 828 8880

www.botanichem.co.za

email: haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations. If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications. Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK

A full-service experience

Review Ishida Europe has extended its range of QX Flex tray sealers with the launch of a new model, which meets market demands for a compact, high-performance solution. The innovative model also maximises output, capacity and flexibility for medium- to high-volume production lines. Sustainability is an integral part of Multivac’s strategy. For 60 years, the company’s packaging solutions have ensured that sensitive products globally can be processed efficiently, as well as being packed hygienically, reliably and attractively.

Rotolabel is passionate about the environment and focuses on minimising any negative ecological impact of its products. The company subscribes to the four Rs of packaging sustainability: responsible sourcing; reduction of materials; recyclability and increased recycled content

Read more in the latest issue of Packaging Review Out Now! ADVERTISING

Interested in advertising in PACKAGING REVIEW? If you are a supplier to the packaging industry, this will be an ideal opportunity to showcase your product offering and create additional brand awareness within the food, beverage, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, personal care, and home care manufacturing sectors.

Contact our advertising sales executives to book your space: Anita Raath Sales executive +27 (0)82 976 6541

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SIGNUP

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review January 2022

Articles inside

Training – the essence of transformation

Collection and recycling rates decline in 2020, says Plastics SA

Laboratory automation and cloud solutions installed at Hersol

How to reduce the cost of compressed air

Fresh looks to inspire makeup innovation in 2022

Evonik acquires sustainable botanicals pioneer Botanica

The mindful microbiome

Symrise launches SymProBiomeTM to work in harmony with the microbiome

Top 10 beauty trends