Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review June 2021

JUNE 2021

Volume 48 | Number 6

48

years www.pharmacos.co.za

ENABLING A VIBRANT aerosol manufacturing industry in SA Tableting & encapsulation trends, tips and technology

Discover the latest personal care ingredients

Get the scoop on Brand Finance Cosmetics 50 2021 report

A Message to Puregas on their

50th Anniversary We at Sikelela Steel SA would like to congratulate Puregas on their 50th anniversary, a milestone that is truly remarkable in today’s times.

We are also so very proud to have played a small part in assisting you to grow into the wonderful business that you are and thank you for your continued support.

We salute you and pray that your wonderful success will ensure that Puregas is here for another 50 years and may you continue the journey with pride.

Management and Staff of Sikelela Steel SA.

Sikelela Steel is an engineering company specializing in the manufacture of quality pressure vessels, mainly vessels used for the storage of LPG and Propane.

In the recent working conditions and environment, we are faced with today, we continue providing the industry with quality products and services. Combining the latest designs in pressure vessels along with the skills and expertise passed down over the many years and generations, our clients are ensured that the product they receive is tailor-made to suit their needs.

NOW INTRODUCING OUR CRYOGENIC DIVISION We are excited to announce that Sikelela Steel has become an integral part of the cryogenic industry, with a focus on the following: • Static vessels • Vaporisers • Road Tankers • Process Applications • Engineering, commissioning, and consulting services

CONTACTS Tel: 011 864 6799 18 Botha Street, Alrode, Alberton Email: harris@sspv.co.za | dhharris@sspv.co.za

JUNE 2021

Contents

Volume 48 | Number 6 www.pharmacos.co.za

45 46 Association News Coschem explores developments in ethnic skin care

37

Forestry sector releases global sustainability report

27

SAEOPA – the backbone of SA’s essential oils industry

6 News

12 Aerosols

32 Ingredients

Sederma and Alganelle partner to produce natural molecules

Puregas celebrates its 50th anniversary

Tomorrow’s Beauty: IMCD’s new trends commentary

New antiperspirant actives from Elementis

Get a safe sun-free tan with Lumipod

Machine safety switches to minimise hazards

Skin care ingredients on in-cosmetics Discover

Industry players establish DNA & Cosmetics consortium Ignite your brand with the help of B.E.E.G IDEA Consulting

9 Product News What’s new on our radar

11 Events Register to attend the SAPICS conference

The rise of phytocannabinoids in skin care

20 Pharma Focus: Tableting & Encapsulation

Merck’s proven ingredients for great formulations

A closer look at the benefits of HPMC capsules

Expert ceramide solutions from Evonik

I Holland introduces segment cleaning equipment

Berg + Schmidt wins a BSB Innovation Award

We go beyond the equipment with the Glatt Group

Clariant launches BeautyForward No. 5

High-value mineral salts for tableting applications

44 Packaging: Anti-Counterfeiting

30 Industry Talk

Inspection systems from TracePack

The latest Brand Finance Cosmetics 50 2021 report

12

On the cover

Puregas celebrates five decades of innovation in the aerosols industry

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JUNE 2021

3

FROM THE EDITOR

Staying safe during the third wave A t the beginning of June, South Africa reached the 5 000 mark for daily new coronavirus infections.

This startling data confirms our country is in its third wave, with Gauteng experiencing the highest number of daily new infections.

As we continue to stay home and practise social distancing to help minimise the spread of the virus during the third wave, digital resources will remain a huge part of our daily existence. One online platform that I have found incredibly useful is in-cosmetics Discover. It was launched a few months ago and makes it really easy for me to keep on top of new launches of personal care and cosmetics ingredients.

Registering on the site gives you exclusive access to loads of of new ingredient launches, and you can connect with suppliers and learn more about the new launches during the live sessions.

According to user statistics, skin care ingredients have proved particularly popular on in-cosmetics Discover and are capturing the interest of many R&D professionals.

We take a look at these and many other skin care ingredients in this edition of P&C Review. We also share the latest trends commentary and market insights from a number of ingredients suppliers.

Turn to page 32 for more info on this.

Puregas is on our cover this month to celebrate its 50 th anniversary. On page 12,

we share an overview of the remarkable history of Puregas, which is deeply rooted in South Africa’s aerosol and foam blowing industry. We also look at how the company makes a difference through numerous initiatives whereby it gives back to the community in which it operates.

For our readers from the pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries, the section on tableting and encapsulation (page 20) includes extensive content on trends, technologies and new solutions. We talk to Scott Watson of Marsing & Co Africa about why HPMC capsules have become a more popular option for encapsulation, and we go beyond the equipment with the Glatt Group to discover the many ways this supplier adds value.

I’m also very excited to share with you our news that we’re re-launching Packaging Review. New Media’s Packaging Review e-book will go live in a couple of months, so be sure to sign up to receive your free copy.

You can use the QR code or url on page 29 of this edition.

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

P C Review is affiliated with:

CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4

JUNE 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti SUB-EDITOR: Katrien Smit, Gill Abrahams CONTRIBUTORS: Karen Maier

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EDITORIAL

MANAGEMENT TEAM

Stay safe and enjoy the read!

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

The team

HEAD OFFICE New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd 8th floor, Media24 Centre, 40 Heerengracht Cape Town, 8001 Tel: +27 21 406 2002 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

John Knowlton

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - T he Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

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NEWS

Ashland acquires the personal care business of Schülke & Mayr In a recent announcement, Ashland stated it has completed the acquisition of the personal care business of Schülke & Mayr, a portfolio company of the global investment organisation, EQT. Under the terms of the agreement, Ashland agreed to a purchase price of €262.5 million in an all-cash transaction funded with bank financing and available cash, subject to customary purchase price adjustments. Ashland expects the acquisition to become immediately accretive to Ashland’s earnings per share.

The completion of the acquisition strengthens Ashland’s consumer business portfolio and enhances the company’s speciality additives position while expanding the company’s biotechnology and microbiology technical competencies. The move also advances Ashland’s environmental, social and governance (ESG) agenda by further aligning the company’s personal care and household portfolio with the ‘clean beauty’ trend and new generation of consumers seeking products with milder ingredients.

“I am excited to welcome the Schülke & Mayr personal care employees to Ashland. They will help broaden our speciality additives solutions and expand our biotechnology and microbiology technical capabilities,” says Guillermo Novo, chairman and chief executive officer, Ashland. “We will continue driving our strategy and focusing on bolt-on acquisitions that create new sustainable solutions in broader fields of application to deliver value to our customers.”

Xiaolan Wang, senior vice president and general manager, personal care and household, Ashland, adds: “Completing this acquisition supports our strategy to strengthen the profitable growth of our personal care and household business unit. It is my pleasure to welcome our new solvers to Ashland who will further help our customers’ brands differentiate and grow in a constantly changing market.”

Citi is acting as financial advisor to Ashland, and Squire Patton Boggs LLP is acting as legal advisor.

Azelis expands its presence in China with Roquette distribution agreement As a leading innovative solutions provider and distributor of food ingredients and speciality chemicals, Azelis is delighted to announce it has increased the scope of its distribution agreement with Roquette in China for its food product range.

Azelis has a long-standing relationship with Roquette and this new partnership strengthens Azelis’ lateral value chain and expands its significant presence in the food and health segment across Asia Pacific.

This agreement enhances Azelis’ lateral value chain by broadening its food and health product offering in the Chinese market with the addition of Roquette’s speciality products, including fibres, plant-derived proteins and both modified and native functional starches.

Azelis’ ability to provide scale, technical expertise, formulation capabilities and market knowledge were critical factors in Roquette’s decision to enter into this distribution agreement.

In 2020, Azelis was appointed as the preferred distribution partner of Roquette for the plant care market

Sederma and Alganelle partner to produce natural molecules

in Asia Pacific.

Sederma, a world leader in the field of bioactive ingredients intended for the cosmetics industry, is pleased to announce a strong partnership with Alganelle.

Alganelle is an innovative French biotechnology company at the cutting edge of microalgae synthetic biology for the sustainable development and production of natural molecules.

In line with Croda’s purpose to use smart science to improve lives, Alganelle’s disruptive technology provides very high-quality raw materials that are safer and obtained from sustainable processes, which respect the environment and biodiversity. Sederma strongly trusts in this move from chemical

synthesis to synthetic biology for the cleaner production of its best-selling ingredients.

Sederma’s expertise in peptide science for cosmetic applications, combined with Alganelle’s unique know-how to engineer microalgae used as photosynthetic cell factories will allow the production of cosmetic active ingredients of the future.

This common project of biological synthesis of one of Sederma’s ingredients with Alganelle’s optimised microalgae platform is currently in the development phase. A patent will be published at the end of August and more information on this will be released in the coming months.

Azelis’ technical and formulation expertise, along with

The partnership between Sederma and Alganelle will allow the production of cosmetic active ingredients of the future

our partners.”

Jean Wang, Roquette China CEO, adds: “We are delighted to further our business relationship with Azelis as part of our commitment to deliver best-in-class services and tailor-made solutions to our customers. With their dedication to use technology and other innovative resources to streamline business processes across the lateral value chain, we are confident that together we can look forward to continued growth in China’s food and health industry.”

Jackson Chu, Azelis managing director China, comments: “Building on our long-standing global partnership with Roquette, this distribution extension is a testimony to their belief in Azelis’ ability to further develop their business and create new opportunities through our deep knowledge of the food market in China and technical sales capabilities. Roquette’s range of high-quality plant-based ingredients are complementary to our overall portfolio and our core values of providing sustainable ingredients and innovative solutions to Azelis China’s distribution business started in 2012, and its exceptional growth can be attributed to its technical know-how, comprehensive product rage and dedication to grow both organically with its partners and through strategic acquisitions.

In 2020, Azelis China acquired CosBond and the Chinese Personal Care business of Bronson & Jacobs to strengthen its position as a leading distributor of speciality chemicals and food ingredients in the China market.

6

JUNE 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

NEWS

Cosmetic consortium established to promote traceability of natural resources Eight players in the cosmetics industry have come together to form DNA & Cosmetics, which is a unique consortium whose objective is to guarantee the best possible traceability of plant raw materials.

Using a scientific method based on DNA analysis, the members of the consortium plan to build the first reliable database that will guarantee the botanical authenticity of the plant resources used in their products.

This cooperative model responds to consumer expectations of transparency and the UN’s sustainable development goals. The members of this consortium are recognised actors willing to commit to more secure supplies and controlled exploitation of plant resources.

The members of the consortium are: • Laboratoires Clarins • Codif Technologie Naturelle • Greentech • L’Oréal Research & Innovation • LVMH Recherche • Groupe Nuxe • Sederma • DNA Gensee.

When purchasing natural raw materials, how can we be sure that we have the right

plant (guarantee the botanical family, genus and species)?

Securing supply is one of the key issues for the consumer goods industry, and in particular for cosmetics, in line with the growing expectations of consumers in terms of safety, authenticity and transparency in connection with the application of the Nagoya protocol.

The DNA analysis technology allows us precisely this traceability. It ensures the identification of plant species and even varieties with great reliability by authenticating the species analysed: this analysis allows us, for example, to distinguish the white lily (Lilium candidum) from the royal white lily (Lilium regale).

Scientific work on lavender, an emblematic species in the cosmetics and perfume sectors, is being undertaken by the consortium.

Cosmetic groups and ingredient suppliers of this consortium sharing the same values of rigor and respect for the consumer and the planet have decided to cooperate in a contribution to the common good.

This unprecedented collaborative initiative responds to three of the 17 SDGs established

by the UN in order to allow companies to act concretely to accelerate the ecological and solidarity transition while contributing to the health of all by guaranteeing the absence of fraud in raw materials. These three goals are: 1. G3: Good health and well-being – DNA testing allows companies for a more secure supply of plant raw materials and thus prevents health risks to the consumer.

2. G12: Responsible consumption and production – DNA analysis allows us to better secure the production of plant raw materials and thus to promote sustainable production methods.

3. G17: Partnerships to achieve the goals – The consortium is built on shared principles and values, vision and goals for sustainability.

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We keep an eye on changes in customer expectations, while watching global markets in order to anticipate the upcoming fragrance and taste trends. With an extensive and ever growing fragrance and taste offering, we're the preferred partner for what your product should taste or smell like.

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SMALL PACK DIVISION

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JUNE 2021

7

NEWS

API manufacturing opportunities are on the horizon, says GlobalData The Food and Drug Administration

peptide) NMEs has been increasing,

(FDA) approved more biologic new

while the outsourcing propensity for

molecular entities (NMEs) in 2020

biologic APIs was higher than dose

than in any other year in the previous

manufacturing during 2019 and 2020.

decade, while at the same time,

biologics – protein and peptide, as

active pharmaceutical ingredient (API)

well as advanced therapy medicinal

manufacturing for these biologics.

products (ATMPs) – have become

Mega cap and large cap companies

increasingly complex, and larger

sponsored 52% of FDA approvals of

companies are leaning on the expertise

biologic NMEs in 2020, says GlobalData,

of CMOs for API production.”

a leading data and analytics company.

Adam Bradbury, PharmSource analyst

Among the biologics that received COVID-19 emergency use approvals,

at GlobalData, comments: “As pipeline

API outsourcing was at an even higher

and marketed biologics increase in both

level than for those biologics receiving

complexity and number, most contract

full market approval, and COVID-19

manufacturing organisations (CMOs)

vaccines in particular have been heavily

remain unable to manufacture biologic

outsourced due to scale or technical

APIs to meet sponsor companies’ needs.

expertise difficulties.

CMOs can benefit from investing in

Bradbury adds: “Unfortunately

capabilities and expertise to produce

for CMOs, larger companies tend

and handle sensitive biologics, as the

to invest in developing their own

marketed drugs landscape will become

internal manufacturing capabilities

increasingly flooded with these in

to manufacture drugs rather than

coming years.”

outsource production. However, they do

Since 2017, the outsourcing of manufacturing of biologic (protein and

8

Bradbury continues: “API for

sponsors increased the outsourcing of

JUNE 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

frequently dual source to mitigate risk and for other strategic reasons.”

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The bespoke brand solutions of the consultancy are brought about by its unique B.E.E.G IDEA insight process, which creates a unique multifaceted idea that has longevity and can be rolled out among the trader/buyer; shopper and consumer.

Check out the website www.BEEGIDEA.CO.ZA for more information on the work of BEEG IDEA Consulting, which is a B-BBEE Level 1 company offering a 135% procurement recognition level.

1. Illuminate the eyes

Treating the skin of the eyes is crucial, especially when it comes to preventing and reducing signs of ageing such as wrinkles, fine lines and puffiness. The advanced formulation of the Classic Eye Effect by Optiphi is specifically developed for the eye area, where the skin is much thinner and more delicate.

The smart skin technology offers an enhanced focus on skin’s integrity, radiance, collagen stimulation and structural support providing an advanced multi-targeted treatment approach. A visible improvement in expression lines, wrinkles and hydration is delivered by through the use of ultra filling spheres, while the Acetyl Hexapeptide-30 and Arginine focus provide superior synthesis of collagen and elastin to prevent and improve expression lines. Skin radiance and exceptional anti-ageing innovation are delivered through the use of bakuchiol to gently yet effectively target skin’s firmness and elasticity.

On the Street New products on our radar 1

2. Everyday skin gets innovative

After researching, developing and testing over 140 protypes, Bio-Oil has taken everyday skin care to the next level with its latest innovation – Bio-Oil Body Lotion.

Body lotions are popular because they are light and easily absorbed, allowing the user to get dressed immediately after application. They are, however, due to their lightness and high water content, typically less effective than creams and body butters. With new Bio-Oil Body Lotion the research and development team set out to formulate a body lotion lighter than any body lotion and more effective than creams and body butters. But how do you utilise the power of oil in a light lotion? This was achieved by launching the first-ever ‘shake before use’

2

body moisturiser. Bio-Oil research and development director, David Letschert, comments: “The difference between our body lotion and other body lotions is that we have, on average, double the amount of oil.

In normal body lotions, you will find around 20% oil, and in ours there is 42% oil. We kept the potency very high, yet we achieved this ultralight feel, so we’ve got the best of both worlds.” Powerfully designed with a complex water-in-oil formulation and combination of ingredients that work to hydrate and replenish mild everyday dry skin, new Bio-Oil Body Lotion is an ideal daily body moisturiser. It’s clinically proven high-oil formulation is non-greasy, spreads easily and absorbs instantly.

During a user trial in the UK it was found that 95% of the trial participants said the product was lighter than any moisturiser they had used before; 90% said their skin felt moisturised the whole day; and 73% said that the product was better than any other moisturiser they had used before. The new Bio-Oil Body Lotion is available at Clicks, Dis-Chem, pharmacies and select retailers nationwide.

3. Get fitter, firmer skin

Over the past two years, how dermatologists and facialists address the look of sagging skin has evolved. Using fillers, dermatologists can firm and recontour the skin. The latest facials go after a fitter, more toned look by giving skin a true workout. It is these trends that have directly inspired the new technology behind Gatineau DefiLift Night

3

Concentrate and Eye Crème. The new FillHyal molecule, an innovative type of hyaluronic acid, not only provides an immediate plump look but also works overtime to boost collagen production. The products are also enriched with the new BioPeptide Complex, which is a unique combination of two bio-available peptides, so skin is able to process the complex faster than typical peptides. The results include increased natural collagen production while skin’s inner support network is redensified and tightened. With the Night Concentrate and Eye Crème skin appears more toned, recovers its natural bounce and density, as if it was fitter, firmer and more strengthened. DefiLift Night Concentrate and Eye Crème are available online and at selected Woolworths, Truworths & Dis-Chem stores.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JUNE 2021

9

What’s on in 2021

DIARY

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JUNE 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

in-cosmetics Korea 14 to 16 July (new dates) Seoul, Korea www.korea.in-cosmetics.com Bangkok Beauty Show 15 to 17 July (new dates) Bangkok, Thailand www.bangkokbeautyshow.com KZN Industrial Technology Expo 21 to 23 July Durban, South Africa www.kznindustrial.co.za

August Cosmoprof North America 29 to 31 August (new dates) Las Vegas, US www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

September 2021 Coschem Scientific Conference 8 to 9 September Virtual event www.coschem.co.za AMA Golf Day 15 September The Country Club, Woodmead www.aerosol.co.za Luxepack Monaco 27 to 29 September Grimaldi Forum, Monaco www.luxepack.com Chemspec Europe 2021 29 to 30 September Virtual event www.chemspeceurope.com

EVENTS

Supply chain support for small businesses SAPICS, the professional body for supply chain management in Southern Africa, has reinforced its commitment to the development of small, medium and micro enterprises. This is with a training and support programme geared towards boosting SMMEs by building their skills in the important area of supply chain management.

W

hen it comes to reaping the benefits of supply chain optimisation – including efficiency enhancements and cost savings – SMMEs are being left behind because they lack the necessary skills and resources, according to SAPICS.

REGISTER TO ATTEND THE SAPICS CONFERENCE The annual SAPICS Conference, which was established 43 years ago, is the leading education, knowledge sharing and networking event in Africa for supply chain professionals. The 43rd virtual SAPICS Conference, themed ‘Refine Rebuild Reconnect’, takes place from 24 to 26 August 2021 and promises to offer delegates a virtual feast of supply chain knowledge sharing and networking opportunities.

Supply chains around the world have been challenged exponentially. Some need to be completely re-built. Others survived better; but the wise and determined will know that supply chains need to be continually refined. By reconnecting at the 43rd virtual SAPICS Conference, supply chain professionals from South Africa and around the world can share their knowledge and experience to ensure that global supply chains are perpetually resilient and can keep the world turning.

Visit conference.sapics.org for more information and to register for this world-class virtual event.

“SMMEs have a crucial role to play in the national economy as major sources of employment and drivers of inclusive economic growth. However, they are not supported, and their growth is hampered by a lack of capital and limited access to skills development.

Major contributors to the growth and development of SMMEs are an understanding of operations and supply chain management best practices,” comments Chanti Wilson, chairperson of the SAPICS SMME task group.

"SAPICS aims to be the conduit for big corporates to support SMMEs " “Small businesses have so many responsibilities, and so many things to consider, that the critical supply chain function is often overlooked. Yet this can make or break the business and is increasingly important in today’s complex and volatile business environment,” she adds.

ACCREDITED TRAINING AND IN-DEPTH SUPPORT SAPICS has a dedicated team working with SMMEs and the large corporates that SMMEs supply, as well as SAPICS’s network of authorised education providers, to offer accredited skills development opportunities

which will deliver mutual benefits and enable job creation.

In addition to contributing to the growth, success and sustainability of small businesses through the provision of education and training, SAPICS aims to be the conduit for big corporates to support SMMEs and participate in the development of their suppliers.

SAPICS’s SMME programme includes accredited training for entrepreneurs covering all aspects of business Chanti Wilson, chairperson of the SAPICS SMME management with a task group strong focus on operations management. Warehouse control, inventory replenishment principles, operational planning and scheduling, lean manufacturing principles, and supply chain and materials management are among the certifications offered.

The programme also includes webinars covering supply chain management, demand planning and sales and operations planning.

Case studies and success stories will be shared, and the programme will offer insights from business leaders and supply chain experts. Furthermore, a SAPICS SMME support line will enable small business owners to get advice and assistance. •

SAPICS – www.sapics.org

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JUNE 2021

11

AEROSOLS

A 50-year celebration

of quality, safety and innovation The history of Puregas is deeply rooted in South Africa’s aerosol and foam blowing industry.

For half a century, it has been at the heart of important local developments in propellant technology and safety. In celebration of Puregas’ 50th anniversary, Abby Vorster explores the company’s journey towards this incredible milestone.

T

he story of Puregas began in July 1971 when it was founded by Kevin Taylor as the first hydrocarbon aerosol propellant company in the country. A local refinery had shown interest in producing hydrocarbons for aerosol applications, and so the business was born.

Although aerosol manufacturing in South Africa started around 1953, during those early years the propellants of choice were R-11 and R-12. Subsequently, hydrocarbon propellants were introduced, but they were not particularly popular, and manufacturers were slow to adopt the-then new technology.

With improvements in the purification technology, hydrocarbon propellants started to be used in some locally-produced aerosols.

Yet the major change to this technology came after 1989 when the Montreal Protocol was signed and implemented. The protocol stipulated the phasing-out of CFCs due to their classification as an ozone depleting substance. It forced the aerosol industry to turn itself to DME and predominantly hydrocarbon propellants. Between 1990 and

Philip Cloete, MD of Puregas

12

1991 there was significant shift to butane/ propane propellants which saw Puregas become a significant industry player.

Aerosol propellant is an integral part of any aerosol product. The availability of high-quality propellant is often the enabler that allows a country to develop an aerosol industry. For this reason, Puregas’ path to growth occurred in parallel with aerosol manufacturing in South Africa. The company is honoured to belong to such a vibrant and successful industry and to be a member of the Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa.

A PORTFOLIO OF SPECIALITY PRODUCTS Puregas’ propellent plant and head office are located in Alrode, Gauteng. Today, its operations span niche and speciality gases and gaseous chemicals, such as hydrocarbons and dimethyl ether propellants. Special gas mixtures, fire suppression products, anhydrous ammonia and beverage grade carbon dioxide are also included in the

The current Puregas propellant plant

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The propellant plant in 1988

company’s product range. It supplies these products throughout South Africa and delivers products in bulk and cylinder format to all neighbouring countries and as far as Zambia and Tanzania.

Through the continued investment of its shareholders in the business, Puregas has increased its product storage and logistics capacity and improved its purification technology.

Revlon – “Tha nk you for the excellent service This includes the recent , professional at titude, proacti installation of a 500m³ veness and

being great busin ess partner.

Throughout ma ny years of dealing with Pu regas I’ve never been disappoint ed. Well done and good luck fo r the next 50 years an d more”

AEROSOLS bulk butane storage vessel, highlighting the company’s commitment to its customers, specifically those operating in the aerosol industry, as it has helped to improve the continuity of propellant supply.

“Our commitment to excellent service goes beyond supplying high-quality products to customers. We spend an enormous amount of time and effort to educate customers on propellant safety while ensuring we remain abreast of latest international developments in good safety practices,” says Philip Cloete, MD of Puregas.

For many years, the Puregas Partnership Awards have honoured customers for their achievements in safety, compliance and

Chemlink Aerosol Contract Packers – “I have been dealing with Puregas for well over 20 years and its service and commitment to the aerosol industry can only be described as faultless. We wish Puregas, as a team driven by service, pride, and integrity, another 50 years of successful trading and service to the aerosol industry.”

THE LIFE AND TIMES OF PUREGAS 2021: Puregas celebrates

five decades in business and looks forward to a period of significant expansion over the next three to five years.

business excellence. The awards are primarily based on good safety practices and standards in the areas of propellant handling and manufacturing. This is evaluated through an annual safety audit conducted at customers’ facilities.

Continued...

2018: A 500m³ bulk butane

storage vessel is installed at the Puregas plant in Alrode.

2016: Puregas diversifies into the beverage grade carbon dioxide business.

2014: Puregas enters into the supply of anhydrous ammonia.

2010: The company’s

operations are expanded into niche and specialty gases and gaseous chemicals.

2006: Royden Vice and

a consortium of investors purchase the company after seeing the immense potential in Puregas.

Puregas has significant logistics capacity to meet customers’ needs

A MESSAGE FROM THE CHAIRMAN, ROYDEN VICE Wow, 50 years old! In today’s world this is a great achievement. Thank you to our customers and suppliers for being part of our company’s success over the years. We greatly appreciate and value your support.

To our employees, thank you for your hard work and dedication. I have been part of the industrial gas business for most of my life. Being involved as a shareholder and chairman of Puregas has been the most rewarding experience of my professional career – because of our friendly, hardworking and dedicated employees.

An anniversary is a good occasion to look back on what has been achieved.

From humble beginnings in 1971, Puregas has evolved into a major player in the aerosol propellant and broader speciality gases industry.

The company has gone from strength to strength and trebled in size since 2006.

We focussed on becoming less commoditised by expanding to being a

broader speciality gaseous chemicals business. Puregas also continued to strive to be the best propellants supplier in Southern Africa. Working to achieve this goal, we have continually invested in additional storage facilities, both at Puregas and our customers’ premises, and in increased logistics capacity.

One of the things that makes the Puregas business so special and successful, is its people. Our management team and employees have extensive knowledge and experience in the small and specialised industry in which Puregas operates. This is coupled with our excellent safety ethic, which gives Puregas a good foundation for continued growth in the coming years.

Being part of an organisation with such a laudable 50-year history is a matter of great pride for me. Looking back on these past successes brings into sharp focus our desire to achieve more as Puregas looks forward to five more decades of success, growth and collaboration with our customers, suppliers and stakeholders.

2004: Puregas installs a new propellant processing plant.

1990/91: The shift towards predominantly hydrocarbon propellants and butane/ propane propellants results in Puregas becoming a significant player in the aerosols industry.

February 1986: Dave

Hidden acquires Puregas from Kevin Taylor.

July 1971: Kevin Taylor establishes Puregas as the first hydrocarbon aerosol propellant company in South Africa.

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13

AEROSOLS CONFIDENT ABOUT THE FUTURE

Specialise d Mainten ance Products – “Puregas is one of the easiest, most coop erative and unders tanding co mpanies to deal wit h”

Even though Puregas has grown significantly over the past five decades, it has remained a relatively small Mecs Gro business with a somewhat small staff up – “Mo st consisten and reliab complement, allowing all employees to t le supplier over the la 10 years, st with a per feel valued and at home. sonal touch ” “We are fortunate to have a team of experienced and extremely The Puregas team based at Alrode, in Alberton committed employees at all levels,” says Cloete, adding that it is this individual and The company will continue to invest in its team commitment which differentiates aerosol propellant supply chain to guarantee the company from competitors. “It is rare customers the same level of service and to experience a team that stretches from supply security in the future. shareholders and employees to suppliers There is strong growth on Puregas’ agenda and customers – all working together in thanks to the backing of its shareholders, an efficient way to ultimately benefit all which include Royden Vice as the majority stakeholders involved.” shareholder and the Mineworkers Investment Despite the many challenges our country Company, through MIC Capital Partners. The faces, Puregas is a proudly South African company is also making significant progress business that is optimistic about the future. to grow its product range and increase the Puregas management team “The tenacity of various South African markets in which it operates. industries has been evident throughout the “Products change and so does the demand pandemic. We feel a great sense of pride on raw materials. To stay abreast, Puregas knowing that Puregas belongs to one of those has continuously invested in the best industries. We strongly believe our country possible purification technology, providing and the African continent offer immense the local industry with the highest quality opportunity for businesses and individuals cosmetic grade hydrocarbon propellant on and that these opportunities are better the market,” highlights Cloete. “Over the served locally, by a local company,” he adds. years, Puregas has never disappointed and For this reason, Puregas’ primary focus of we are excited to continue this journey for servicing its existing customers and markets the next 50 years.” • will remain a priority as it endeavours to support the businesses that assisted The ammonia team Puregas – www.puregas.co.za Puregas in reaching its 50-year milestone.

A SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS Puregas has been involved in numerous initiatives to give back to the community in which it operates. The beneficiaries of its social responsibility projects include: • Forever Friends Foundation which received a donation of lifeline kits for underprivileged • Wild Hearts Foundation through which Puregas sponsors sanitary towels for schoolgirls.

Puregas also takes part in Mandela Day on an annual basis by donating 67 food parcels to people in need and it donates Christmas

presents and a meal for each child to a chosen nursery school.

Puregas introduced an education support scheme whereby the company contributes financially to the schooling of employee’s children. The company also provides bursaries for tertiary studies to employees’ children who display noteworthy academic merit. These types of programmes create a strong sense of appreciation among employees and contribute to building team spirit and comradery within the company.

aving tories – “H ra o b a L e Rolf 198 8 our uregas since P h it w lt a de only be nership can rt a p ly p d o ne of p su f a kind an o e n o s a d describe nce.” pure excelle liability, ds – “Re n a r B nalism are o Indig professio d n a king s s e en when thin pro-activ e to mind ve m a o h c t to a ood words th am. It is g te .” s s a u g g re n u li ena b of the P is calibre th f o r e li a supp

COMMITTED TO EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE According to Puregas, ultimately its customers are the reason for the company’s existence. In some cases, it continues to supply companies it has been doing business with since the 1970s. Puregas is proud of its close customer relationships, which are evident in the congratulatory messages from customers included in this article on the yellow post-it notes.

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Oryx OryxOil OilSouth SouthAfrica Africa(OOSA) (OOSA)isisproud proudtotobe bePuregas’ Puregas’supplier supplierofofchoice. choice.Puregas Puregasisisrecognised recognisedasasSouthern SouthernAfrica’s Africa’s leadingsupplier supplierof ofpurifi purified andblended blendedhydrocarbon hydrocarbon gas gas since since1971.

1971.We Weare areextremely extremelyprivileged privilegedtotobebea abusiness businesspartner partner leading ed and ofPuregas.

Puregas. of

OryxEnergies Energiesisisone oneofofAfrica’s Africa'slargest largestand andlongest-established longest-establishedindependent independentproviders providersofofoil oiland andgas gasproducts productsand andservices. services.

Oryx We have been responding to the evolving energy needs of the region, in over 20 countries across sub-Saharan Africa.

We have been responding to the evolving energy needs of the region, in over 20 countries across sub-Saharan Africa. OurOur Oryx Oil South Africa (OOSA) is proud to be Puregas’ economic supplier of choice.

Puregas isin recognised as an Southern Africa’s vision reflects our continued continued Africa.

With embedded safety culture vision refl ects our commitment to to supporting supporting economicand andsocial socialgrowth growth in Africa.

With an embedded safety leading supplier of purified and blended hydrocarbon gas since 1971. We are extremely privileged to be a business partner reflected our in ISO Oryx Energies delights in theinprivilege to support our partners, suchsuch as Puregas, in culture reflin ected ourtriple ISO certification, triple certification, Oryx Energies delights the privilege to support our partners, as of Puregas. their endeavours to operate safely and safely sustainably.

Puregas, in their endeavours to operate and sustainably.

Oryx Energies is one of Africa's largest and longest-established independent providers of oil and gas products and services.

We have been responding to the evolving energy needs of the region, in over 20 countries across sub-Saharan Africa. Our vision reflects our continued commitment to supporting economic and social growth in Africa. With an embedded safety culture reflected in our ISO triple certification, Oryx Energies delights in the privilege to support our partners, such as Puregas, in their endeavours to operate safely and sustainably.

OOSA and Puregas: Commercial and Supply Teams.

“We truly appreciate the professional, yet friendly relationship that we experience with everyone that we deal with throughout the organisation.

WeCommercial are proud and to have been associated with your growth and ability to service your customers and look OOSA and Puregas: Supply Teams.

OOSA and Puregas: Commercial and- Supply Teams. Harishka Maharajh and Simele Ankiah forward to future successes together.”

Craig Carter, “We truly appreciate the the professional, yetyet friendly witheveryone everyonethat that deal with throughout “We truly appreciate professional, friendlyrelationship relationshipthat that we we experience experience with wewe deal with throughout the organisation.

We are to have beenbeen associated withwith youryour growth andand ability to to service your customers the organisation.

We proud are proud to have associated growth ability service your customersand andlook look th corporate forward to future successes together.”

Craig Carter, and Ankiah “Kudos to the -Puregas teamHarishka on your Maharajh 50 anniversary! forward to future successes together.”

- Craig Carter, Harishka Maharajh andSimele Simele This is a significant milestone and must be acknowledged. OOSA commends Puregas for the respect it commands within the aerosol industry. done to team our teams in50ththeir expertise, level of “KudostoWell to the Puregas your corporate anniversary!

“Kudos the Puregas team onon your 50th anniversary! professionalism and team work.

May webecorporate continue this journey of This is a significant milestone and must acknowledged.

OOSA This is a significant milestone and must be acknowledged. OOSA accomplishment together. commends Puregas for the respect it commands within the aerosol commends Puregas for the respect it commands within the industry. Well done to our teams in their expertise, level of aerosol industry.

Well done to our May teams incontinue their expertise, level of Thank you for being essential ofweour business professionalism andanteam work. part thissuccess.” journey of professionalism and team work.

May we continue this journey of accomplishment together. accomplishment together.

Pam Indurjeeth, OOSA Managing Director Thank you for being an essential part of our business success.”

Thank you for being an essential part of our business success.”

Pam Indurjeeth, OOSA Managing Director

Pam Indurjeeth, OOSA Managing Director

AEROSOLS

Innovative solutions for all-day sweat and odour protection As leader in the field of antiperspirants, Elementis offers a complete range of ingredient solutions for different application formats, including roll-ons, aerosols, sticks and sprays for efficient sweat reduction across all performance levels.

Did you know?

Elementis has established an exclusive commercial agreement with Aqdot, a supramolecular chemtech company, to sell its AqFresh odour capture and smart fragrance release solution. AqFresh has been shown to significantly enhance odour elimination and is proven to be capable of removing body odours for prolonged periods of time. The controlled and triggered fragrance release of the technology from Aqdot also provides a long-lasting delivery of a full-fragrance experience. This combination of benefits is ideal for the antiperspirant and deodorant markets.

"Bentone Gel products cause less yellowing and whitening on fabrics compared to bentonite or silica-based products"

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W

ithin an ever-evolving market environment, Elementis contributes to the value chain with the highest standards in quality and service. The company recently invested in a new state-of-the-art antiperspirant actives manufacturing facility, which Elementis will establish in India to ensure increased

supply chain resilience and a reduction in environmental impact.

Represented locally by Millchem, Elementis operates at forefront of innovation and application science to introduce new antiperspirant actives on a regular basis. REACH 701L and REACH 9000 are two of its latest innovations.

EXTRA-EFFECTIVE, LONG-LASTING PROTECTION REACH 701L is a chemically activated aqueous solution of aluminum chlorohydrate. It contains a higher level

AEROSOLS

of sweat-effective aluminium species (peak 4) compared to standard aluminium chlorohydrate. This active will provide all-day effective protection. REACH 701L is specially designed for use in roll-ons as well as aqueous creams and gels, delivering a minimum of 24-hours of wetness and odour protection during normal application.

REACH 9000 is a high-performance active ingredient recommended for use in anhydrous suspension aerosols.

It provides an exceedingly high level of peak 4 aluminium species for outstanding sweat protection compared to conventional ACH. This pH balanced active is userfriendly and compatible with most commonly used fragrances. It has been produced specifically for long-lasting wetness and odour protection.

While REACH 701L and REACH 9000 were designed for optimal efficacy in different application formats, both provide a significant reduction of perspiration in the underarms, and on hands and feet. Both ingredients also provide a reduction in underarm odour (deodorancy) as well as antimicrobial activity against gm (+) micro-organisms.

EASY-TO-USE RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS In addition to Elementis’ antiperspirant actives, the Bentone Gel range offers a multitude of benefits when formulating deodorants and antiperspirants.

These easy-to-use oil phase rheology modifiers not only improve the skin feel of the final formulation but also its stability profile.

Based on high purity hectorite, Bentone Gel products cause less

yellowing and whitening on fabrics compared to bentonite or silica-based products respectively. The gels form a network in the oil phase of the formulation which provides outstanding suspension and anti-caking properties to antiperspirant actives.

Whereas the hectorite platelets in the gel interact via weak attraction and repulsion forces, allowing for a shear thinning effect that prevents any blockage of the actuator and subsequently enhances ease of application.

Bentone Gel also provides excellent thermostability to the final product as the hectorite network is not affected by heat or extreme temperatures.

While the Bentone Gel product range covers a full spectrum of emollients, the common alternatives to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) based materials are Bentone Gel ISD-V, Bentone Gel IPM V and Bentone Gel HS V. •

Elementis – www.elementis.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za

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AEROSOLS

Control explosion risks with machine safety switches Switchgear is designed to minimise hazards in manufacturing, with the ultimate goal of protecting people and processes. Euchner’s newest solution in this area is the upgraded range of ATEX-approved safety switches and interlocks for use on equipment within potentially hazardous environments.

F

atal explosions in UK factories are extremely rare thanks to the combination of stringent safety measures introduced over the years. These measures are designed to eliminate or control the risks associated with explosive atmospheres in the workplace, while the availability of high-quality equipment also helps to meet safety obligations.

Yet, there’s no room for complacency among manufacturers as explosions can still occur even where the processes and ingredients are the least volatile. This is because all technical equipment is a potential ignition source and can trigger an explosion under certain conditions.

BRIDGING PROTECTION AND RISK-REDUCTION Conventional safety interlocks for monitoring or securing doors are generally not suitable within facilities where combustible materials, including gases, vapours, mist or dust could be present, while the common ATEX switch and locking solutions for these zones often fall short of the applicable machinery safety standards, including EN ISO 13849-1 and EN-ISO-14119.

ATEX equipment manufactured

by Euchner is suitable for use in Zone 2 (gas) and Zone 22 (dust) environments with the recently developed Euchner CTP switch filling the gap between explosion protection and general machinery risk-reduction, such as preventing personnel access to rotating equipment.

Of course, the ignitability of an explosive atmosphere depends on the material. Gases and vapours are classified into explosion groups IIA, IIB and IIC depending on the energy required for ignition. The ATEX CTP manufactured by Euchner belongs to explosion group IIC, which includes extremely flammable

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gases such as hydrogen and acetylene.

Dust materials are classified in a similar way, with explosion groups IIIA, IIIB and IIIC depending on the size and conductivity of the dust particles.

All ATEX equipment manufactured by Euchner belongs to explosion group IIIC – and even includes dust-containing carbon.

A ROBUST SOLUTION FOR HARSH ENVIRONMENTS In addition to its suitability for use in potentially explosive atmospheres, the ATEX CTP range also achieves Cat4/PLe in accordance with EN ISO 13849-1. The ability to ‘code’ the actuator to the switch offers an added advantage of preventing manipulation or tampering with the safety circuit as highlighted within EN-ISO-14119.

Because of the monitored guard-locking function, the CTP switch is suitable for applications with extended run-down times or even where an inert gas purge is required prior to operator or maintenance personnel access.

ATEX-approved safety switches from Euchner help to control risks associated with explosive atmospheres in hazardous manufacturing operations

Did you know?

Euchner was the first company to develop the RFID safety switch, which is now included as standard in many products that make factories safer for people.

The robust housing offers a high degree of ingress protection and makes the unit especially suited to harsh environments.

Its compact design permits space-saving guard mounting with a locking force of up to 3 900N. Thanks to the hinged actuators, the CTP locking solution can be used on very small radii doors. For applications where full body access is required, Euchner produces a variant with a manual built-in escaperelease system.

PASSIONATE ABOUT PERSONNEL SAFETY Joe Ardley, Euchner UK’s technical manager, comments: “Protecting people from the dangers of work equipment can be especially difficult where dust and potentially explosive gases are present.

The relevant parts of the EN 60079-XX standard must always be taken into consideration when selecting equipment. We are delighted to be able to offer a complete solution to ensure the safety of personnel where potentially explosive and general machinery hazards are concerned.”

Euchner’s CTP ATEX series is just one of a comprehensive range of devices available from the company. These devices are suitable for use within industries operating with potentially explosive atmospheres, including petrochemical, pharmaceutical, chemicals, wastewater, food and defence. •

Euchner – www.euchner.co.uk

ADVERTORIAL

The lightweight heavyweight For medications in tablet, powder or liquid form, highly pure HDK® pyrogenic silica has now become an indispensable part of the pharmaceutical industry. As an excipient it improves the flow properties of powders and liquids and enhances the quality of tablet and capsule manufacturing processes. So, is it really a heavyweight?

Definitely not.

AAdvancing natural styling formulations unique feature of HDK® is its low density. One litre of the ultrapure HDK® N20 Pharma weighs just 40g. This is identical to HDK® N20P Pharma, except that it was mechanically compressed after production. What purpose does this serve? See for yourself!

• Half the Volume Pharmaceutical manufacturers require fewer bags of HDK® N20P Pharma for production.

• Less Storage Space Fewer bags require less storage space in the warehouse.

• Less Dust PACKED IN TIGHT HDK® Dust formation in production is reduced – N20P PHARMA as are losses due to dust.

• Double Density • More Weight After production, HDK® N20P Pharma is One bag of HDK® N20P Pharma weighs mechanically compressed, increasing its 20kg – this is two times as much as a bag tap density from 40g/L to 100g/L. of HDK® N20 Pharma.

• Straightforward Logistics More in each bag results in fewer bags – and less space needed for shipping.

• Less Work to Clean Less dust means less cleaning.

This also reduces the need for workplace ventilation.

• More Sustainability Since a shipload or truckload holds more HDK®, the carbon footprint is lower compared to unpressed HDK®.

• Less Waste • Provides natural look and sensory on hair More product in the bag means less • Outstanding hair manageabilitypackaging material – and, in turn, this Resta al passo con le tendenze, fatti guidare dai

" With HDK® you not only get great product performance, but also tailored customer service" amounts to less packaging waste for the manufacturer.

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A GLOBALLY SUCCESSFUL PRODUCT Pyrogenic silica is a mature product that WACKER has produced for over 50 years and is used by customers worldwide with great success. Thanks to WACKER’s integrated production system with statistical process control and highly efficient reactor dynamics, it produces pyrogenic silica of exceptionally purity.

With HDK® you not only get great VI ASPETTIAM Obut also tailored product performance, IN-C OSMETICS 20 19 specialists customer service. WACKER’s

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Provides natural lookPressed and sensory onmore hairthan HDK® has Outstanding hair manageability Outstanding hair manageability double the tamped density of its Suitable for natural certified formulations uncompressed counterpart. Yet Suitable for natural certified formulations 100% naturally derived it retains the material’s crucial 100% naturally derived

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can offer you extensive applications support. They will work with you to develop process-focused solutions, providing comprehensive support with optimising your products and formulations. •

IMCD ITALIA SPA T: +39 02 557091 E: info@imcd.it www.imcdgroup.com

Contact IMCD South Africa for more information Phone: 011 570 4260 Website: www.imcdgroup.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JUNE 2021

19

PHARMA FOCUS: TABLETING & ENCAPSULATION

HPMC – the capsule technology with a wider appeal Natural clean and vegan are today’s buzzwords – even in the pharmaceutical industry. To align with consumers’ health, wellness and cultural needs, manufacturers of dietary supplements are moving away from gelatine capsules in favour of plant-based options such as HPMC. Abby Vorster talks to Scott Watson, sales director of Marsing & Co Africa, about why HPMC capsules have become a more popular option for encapsulation.

IS THE TREND TOWARDS VEGAN CAPSULES EVIDENT IN THE SOUTH AFRICAN DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS MARKET? SW: More and more consumers are pursuing healthier lifestyles and choosing more natural, healthier and safer products as a result. From food to cosmetics and even dietary supplements (or nutraceuticals), consumers are re-evaluating what they consume. As a result, vegan capsules have become a very popular option for dietary supplements with more and more manufacturers looking to change products encapsulated in gelatine or animal-derived capsules to vegan alternatives.

WHAT TYPES OF VEGETABLE CAPSULES ARE AVAILABLE LOCALLY? SW: Both hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) and pullulan capsules are available in South Africa. HPMC is a plant-derived cellulose, which is approved worldwide by the FDA for normal human consumption.

HPMC capsules were first developed over 30 years ago as a vegetarian alternative to hard gelatine capsules. Since then, they have been approved in many countries by vegan and vegetarian societies and certified as kosher and halal.

The second option, pullulan capsules, are also based on a natural polymer that is sourced from fungi grown on a starch substrate. The cost of pullulan capsules is almost triple that of HPMC, so manufacturers often opt for HPMC as their plant-based capsule of choice.

Marsing & Co Africa is the exclusive local agents for Shandong Healsee (Healsee) – a specialist producer of HPMC vegecaps. We supply manufacturers of dietary supplements and pharma products throughout southern African with Healsee’s high-quality HPMC vegecaps. Our principal produces over 20 billion capsules annually covering all size requirements, from 000, 00 and 00 EL to 0, 1, 2, 3 and 4. Healsee

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also offers a printing service whereby text or graphics are printed directly on capsules for customers who require a solution to differentiate their products.

APART FROM BEING COSTEFFECTIVE, ARE THERE OTHER BENEFITS TO HPMC CAPSULES? SW: Compared to gelatine capsules, which are sensitive to humidity, HPMC capsules have lower moisture content, making them better-suited to medicinal preparations that easily absorb moisture and/or react with moisture content.

"Our principal produces over 20 billion capsules annually covering all size requirements" Because they are plant-based, HPMC capsules are suitable for vegans and vegetarians as well as consumers who avoid bovine or porcine-derived products for religious or cultural reasons.

Therefore, dietary supplements and pharmaceuticals packaged in HPMC capsules are far more accessible to consumers of all walks of life.

Did you know?

Capsule quality can influence manufacturing speed and production in terms of yield. Inferior-quality capsules may slow productivity and often result in a lot of rejects on the line. In comparison, Marsing & Co Africa’s high-quality HPMC vegecaps run efficiently on capsule filling machines from automatic highspeed to semi-automated equipment, ensuring maximum yield and a superior finished product. industries. Healsee is also one of the largest manufacturers of HMPC capsules in China and the fifth largest in the world. It is home to 38 automatic HPMC capsule production lines which it will increase to 46 during the third quarter of 2021, as Healsee plans to install another eight production lines.

As one of only a handful of vertically integrated producers of HPMC capsules worldwide, Healsee can meet the needs of any manufacturer of pharmaceuticals and nutraceuticals or dietary supplements – be it a specific colour or capsule size – as the company carries a large variety of solutions. It also guarantees capsules of a consistently high quality, ensuring the best performance on capsule filling machines. •

Scott Watson, sales director of Marsing & Co Africa

CONSIDERING THE GLOBAL DEMAND, IS IT POSSIBLE TO ENSURE AN UNINTERRUPTED SUPPLY OF HPMC VEGECAPS LOCALLY? SW: Yes – and we can guarantee their quality. Healsee is a subsidiary of Shandong Head – one of Asia’s largest producers of HPMC that is used in the pharma and food

Marsing & Co Africa – www.marsing-sa.com Shandong Healsee – www.healsee.net

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GELATIN CAPSULES VEGETABLE CAPSULES HPMC plant hollow capsules use plant cellulose derivative. Ÿ Kosher & Halaal Certified. Ÿ Various sizes and colours and stock available at JHB Warehouse. Ÿ

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Various sizes and colours.

Pharmaceutical regulatory compliance and technical support available.

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Stock available ex JHB Warehouse.

PHARMA FOCUS: TABLETING & ENCAPSULATION

An easy, repeatable process for cleaning segments I Holland, a global manufacturer of tablet punches and dies for the pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries, has announced the launch of new die table segment cleaning equipment. The innovation is set to help manufacturers clean faster and more effectively by using a repeatable process.

T

he ultrasonic cleaner is equipped with a specially designed fixture, which holds the segment safely and securely within the tank and leaves the bores unobstructed to ensure effective cleaning of the entire segment. The pivot design allows for an easy drying and drainage process, while the basket coating prevents scratching and damage.

Alex Bunting, I Holland marketing manager, says: “As a market leader and trusted name in the industry it was only natural for I Holland to introduce a product specifically designed to clean die table segments. I Holland segment cleaning also effectively cleans tablet punches and dies using a method that provides repeatable cleaning results. The ultrasonic cleaner easily removes contaminants like granule residue or grease from every surface leaving equipment spotless and ready for use.”

AUTOMATED, REPEATABLE AND RELIABLE The segment cleaning equipment is based on an automated repeatable process that has time and cost saving advantages when compared to other methods like manual cleaning. The goal at I Holland has always been to help clients improve their products, quality and processes through the use of innovative products.

"The segment cleaning equipment is based on an automated repeatable process that has time and cost saving advantages" “I Holland segment cleaning has strengthened our portfolio and added a new dimension to our product offering,” Bunting adds.

The system is nearly six times faster when compared to manual cleaning. To successfully clean 220 punches and 5 segments, the I Holland automatic ultrasonic

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Table 1: A comparison of cleaning methods Cleaning method

Time taken for a full set of tools (Fette 3090i) 220 punches

Total time

Five segments

I Holland segment cleaner

10’

50’

1h

Manual cleaning

220’

150’

6h10’

Time saved per set

3h30’

1h40’

5h10’

The ultrasonic method provides repeatable cleaning results compared to manual cleaning so you can remove stubborn contaminants from all of your tooling in a lot less time

NEW E-LEARNING PROGRAMME

I Holland’s segment cleaner and segment basket accessory

I Holland recently developed an e-learning programme, which offers professionals comprehensive and flexible courses in a wide variety of disciplines.

Modules include a variety of subjects, such as an introduction to tablet tooling, tooling maintenance, troubleshooting production problems, and improving productivity. The e-learning platform is tailored to work to the skillset of the person undertaking the course and is designed with a hierarchical system giving training managers and supervisors a full audit, tracking and reporting of employee development and certification.

I Holland believes this is the ideal training solution in today’s uncertain times.

cleaner will effectively clean in just one hour, compared to six hours and 10 minutes using a manual method.

The system is effective at removing contaminant from every surface and geometry of the tooling equipment, including small spaces and crevices, to ensure tooling equipment is critically cleaned and ready for use. •

I Holland – www.iholland.co.uk

Contract manufacturers for the pharmaceutical and complementary medicines markets Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories has Manufacturing Laboratories hasbeen been Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories operating for 40 years, and isisaakey player ininthe operating for 40 years, and key player is a registered company specializingthe complementary complementarymedicine medicinemanufacturing manufacturingarena arenainin in manufacturing and packing of South Africa.

South Africa.

complementary medicines for third party

Automatic Encapsulation Machine Automatic Encapsulation Machine

The new 5 cubicle dispensary and sampling facilities

HPLC Testing HPLC Testing

Handling of Raw Materials when weighing and dispensing is handled in accordance with Medicines Control Council guidelines

Hersol manufactures aawide range ofofproducts inin Hersol manufactures widelocal rangeSouth products companies within the African various dosage forms: including tablets – single and various dosage forms: including – single and market.

Founded inuncoated 1980,tablets Hersol adheres double layer, coated and (sugar and film double layer, coated and uncoated (sugar and film to a Quality Management System which coating), coating), effervescent effervescenttablets, tablets,capsules, capsules,powders, powders, topical preparations such as; gels, embraces current Good Manufacturing topical preparations such as;creams, creams, gels,ointments ointments and lotions, syrups and liquids.

Hersol prides Practices in accordance Medicines and lotions, syrups and liquids. with Hersol pridesitself itself on quality products, which have undergone onControl quality assured assured products, which have undergone Councilcheckpoints. requirements. various compliance Hersol has a highly various compliance checkpoints. Hersol has a highly qualified team who are constantly growing through qualified team who are constantly growing through training and education. is investing in a Hersol’s extensiveHersol facility features a high fully training and education. speed manufacturing suite ensuring production equipped Laboratory to ensure quality remains in the upper ranks in South Africa.

In of addition to the manufacturing of complementary raw materials and finished products. pharmaceutical products, Hersol also offers Contract It has modern manufacturing facilities In addition to the manufacturing of complementary Packing. Hersolproducts, has a packing consisting pharmaceutical Hersoldepartment also offers Contract for blending, granulating, compressing & of 13 packing lines employing over 100 people.

Packing. Hersol has a packing department consisting coating tablets as well as encapsulating Hersol’s packing extend thepeople. following: of 13 packing linesservices employing overto 100 capabilities.

Hersol has state of the • Containers Hersol’s packing services extend to the following: • Bottles art on-site packing facilities, including • Containers Unit Cartons •• Bottles a recently introduced blister packing • Shrink Wrapping • Unit Cartons machine.

In addition, Hersol has facilities • Blistering • Shrink Wrapping to manufacture Combo Packing and pack syrups, creams, • Blistering • Combo Packing gels and ointments.

Pack sizes include 30s, 60s,120s,180s and even 200s.

Pack sizes include 30s, 60s,120s,180s and even 200s.

Leadership at Hersol is upheld by a highly Hersol is proud to note that it has a fully accredited competent Team with Hersol is proud tobetween note thatWet it has a fully accredited Laboratory, splitManagement chemistry, an vast Laboratory, split between Wet chemistry, an instrument room withsubject HPLC’s, matter AA, GC and pharmaceutical knowledge instrument room withbaths, HPLC’s, AA, GC Dissolution and DT as well as aand comprehensive and experience in staff motivation so as to Dissolution and DT baths, asAll well as a comprehensive Microbiological laboratory. equipment is calibrated achieve a superior product.

Microbiological All equipment is regulations, calibrated and checked onlaboratory. a regular basis as per the and checked on a regular basis as per the regulations, and the staff undergo rigorous regular updates and and the staff undergo rigorous regular updatesand and Hersol registered with: training for is competency, to ensure accurate training for competency, to ensure accurate and consistent are obtained. t Southresults African Medicines Control Council consistent results are obtained.

t South African Pharmaceutical Council

40 years of excellence

40 years of excellence

Hersol is registered with: t South African Department of Health Hersol registered with: • SouthisAfrican Health Products Regulatory Authority •• South African Health Products Regulatory Authority t Health Product Association – HPA South African Pharmaceutical Council •• South African Pharmaceutical Council South African Department Health t Cosmetics, Toiletriesofand Fragrances •• South African Department of –Health Health Product Association HPA Association • Health Product Association – HPA • Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances Association t FDA Food Facility • Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances Association • FDA Food Facility • FDA Food Facility

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2

fax: +27 11 614 4615

email: enquiries@hersol.co.za admin@hersol.co.za

web: www.hersol.co.za

PHARMA FOCUS: TABLETING & ENCAPSULATION

Beyond the equipment – real solutions that add value

Tablets continue to be a popular pharmaceutical dosage form. They are relatively easy to manufacture, package and transport; offer good physical and chemical stability; and facilitate simple and accurate dosing. Despite these advantages, problems can occur in the tableting process, requiring specific expertise to overcome them. This is where the Glatt Group adds immense value, writes Abby Vorster.

I

n addition to its ability to produce and supply integrated process solutions and equipment, Glatt has vast technical knowledge of tablet manufacturing processes and can assist customers in many ways. A customer may need to increase operational efficiency or improve safety measures to ensure better protection for its machine operators. It could also be experiencing quality issues and might need to fine tune a formulation as a result.

The Glatt Group’s headquarters are located in Germany.

Since inception, the presence of this dynamic Dr Norbert Pöllinger, company has grown senior consultant at Glatt Pharmaceutical substantially with 15 Services branches and subsidiaries, as well as various representatives situated worldwide. In South Africa, it is represented by Reitech SA, a Cape Town-based process engineering company and supplier of packaging and manufacturing machinery to the FMCG, pharmaceutical, food and beverage and cosmetics industries.

The Glatt Innovation Centre, located in Binzen, Germany

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Glatt and Reitech SA work closely to meet the manufacturing and packaging needs of many South African pharmaceutical businesses. They have a thorough understanding of the local industry landscape and how the pharmaceutical demands differ based on the various levels of automation.

Glatt’s area sales manager, Alexander Rongen comments: “We have identified several levels of capabilities among South African manufacturers. The big high-tech production plants are the most advanced. They employ fully-automated, high-speed processes. At some of the smaller to medium-sized semi-automated factories highly-sophisticated controls are a central focus. There are also facilities where automation and throughput are not fundamental concerns. These manufacturers use manual processes in order to create jobs for semi-skilled workers.”

A CUT ABOVE THE REST Glatt provides technical support to all its pharmaceutical customers, locally and abroad, regardless of their level of automation or manufacturing sophistication. This support is also available to customers who currently cannot afford to invest in new machinery.

TABLETING FROM THEN TO NOW To manufacture tablets, blending the powder substrate of excipients and the API, feeding the powder mixture into a tableting machine and compressing it into tablets was the simplest approach. However, evidence has shown that this is quite rare in a manufacturing environment, as manufacturers soon required granulation technologies to improve their tableting processes. According to Dr Norbert Pöllinger, senior consultant at Glatt Pharmaceutical Services, this is why the Glatt Group exists.

Glatt is an expert in process technology. It develops granulation solutions, among other process technologies, to improve the tableting process.

“Granulation shapes very fine powders with poor flowability into agglomerates using a technical agglomeration process. This results in a coarser material which has better flowability and can be transferred efficiently into the dies of the tablet press to be punched into tablets,” Dr Pöllinger adds.

Over the years, the tablet compression process has also evolved to become fully automatic. Manufacturers are now faced with technological challenges as quality must be permanently controlled for each single tablet produced. Think of a modern tableting press that produces more than 1 million tablets per hour, if the weight and hardness of each of those tablets is permanently controlled to automatically eliminate defective tablets, the stream of good tablets will become interrupted. At higher press speeds, the number of good tablets rejected from the line will simply increase.

PHARMA FOCUS: TABLETING & ENCAPSULATION

Axel Friese, Glatt head of marketing

“We offer a lot more value than your typical equipment supplier, guiding our customers from concept development to the final product,” says Axel Friese, Glatt head of marketing. “We provide extensive training with equipment sales which can be repeated in the event of staff turnover or if an employee requires further educational support. Prior to the pandemic, the training was conducted on-site. Yet it is now done virtually to protect the health of our staff, our customers and their employees.”

If a customer experiences any technical issues on a production line, Glatt helps to address them. This is also done virtually using

Team Viewer, or a digital animation in video format is sent to the customer.

When a concern is not software-related, such as changing a seal or replacing the filter on a machine, it is addressed using integrated smart glasses or AR technology. The operator shares machine information in real-time with Glatt’s technical experts and improvements are quickly and easily communicated back to the customer, also in real-time.

Friese adds: “If a problem is more complex, the process could be tested at one of our technology centres – two of which are in Germany and one is in the US. For demos and testing to be effective, the customer’s equipment does need to be the same as the equipment at our innovation centre.”

Glatt Pharmaceutical Services operates within the banner of the Glatt Group with its team located at the innovation centre in Germany to help customers to tackle manufacturing problems. Customers from all over the world will often send the team samples of problematic products or recipes for evaluation. Glatt encourages its South African customers to do the same, especially if they are experiencing any production issues.

JOIN GLATT AT ACHEMA PULSE Get inspired, get involved and get connected – this is Glatt’s theme for Achema Pulse and you are invited to take part and connect with Glatt during this not-to-be-missed virtual event taking place on 15 and 16 June. There are three ways to connect with Glatt at Achema Pulse: 1. via the Exhibitor Channel 2.during the Exhibitor Pitch 3. by attending one or more of the Glatt workshops taking place during the virtual event.

Excellence United will also be presenting at Achema Pulse on the headline topics of containment, the perfect project, digitisation and efficiency. Visit www.achema.de for more information and to register to attend Achema Pulse.

WE ARE EXPERTS IN AUTOMATION & CONTROL CESS CONTROL O R P

CHARGING

HARGING DISC

Did you know?

YOUR INGREDIENTS

BA

Celyscence was developed from Clariant Active Ingredients x Biospectrum research and is said to be a breakthrough innovation for preventing a decline in skin function and to promote healthy ageing. The extract draws on the therapeutic properties of milk thistle, using the flowers to achieve a particularly wide activity in targeting and counteracting cellular senescence.

TC

H

FOR YOUR OSD FORMS

www.glatt.com Glatt. Integrated Process Solutions.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JUNE 2021

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PHARMA FOCUS: TABLETING & ENCAPSULATION

Did you know?

In recent years, mini or micro tablets have become a popular dosage form for administering tablets in young children and toddlers. The diameter of these tiny tablets ranges from 1.5mm to 2mm, making it easy for very young patients to swallow them.

controlled automation approach. This service is highly relevant to the local pharmaceutical industry, particularly where there are manual processes, as it helps to address inefficiencies in manufacturing operations and to close skills gaps on the factory floor.

“Controlled automation is beneficial when a customer wants to improve operational efficiency,” Rongen explains. “Glatt develops and provides the controls for an automated recipe-driven process which includes regulated methods and achieves reproducible batches. Controlled automation also reduces the risk of human error and offers batch reporting of the entire process.”

Improved safety is also an advantage of controlled automation as it not only

increases operator protection but also elevates safety within the surrounding environment.

“Tablet manufacturing involves risky processes and the use of dust powders and organic solvents. If safety measures aren’t maintained, an explosion could occur or the operator’s health could be harmed,” adds Rongen, highlighting that Glatt is known for its safe equipment that is engineered to offer maximum protection.

In addition to safety, the group is very passionate about the topic of cleaning pharmaceutical processing equipment which is essential to maintain quality standards. Glatt has extensive know-how on pharmaceutical cleaning and offers customers regular training to help them to avoid cross-contamination in their manufacturing facilities. Ultimately, it is Glatt’s mission to share the group’s cumulative expertise worldwide, spreading plenty of valuable knowledge and uplifting skills across the globe, even in South Africa. •

Buyer’sguide

Glatt’s area sales manager, Alexander Rongen

THE

Once the samples are received, the Glatt Pharmaceutical Services experts put them through various tests on a fully operational production line within the innovation centre.

In doing so, both the product and process are assesed.

CONTROLLED AUTOMATION

Glatt’s consulting portfolio also features a solution for controlled automation, which the group deems its recipe-driven

2017/2018

Glatt Group – www.glatt.com Reitech SA – www.reitech.co.za

THE

Buyer’sguide

2020/2021

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za 26

Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1

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2018/05/07 3:09 PM

ADVERTORIAL

Excipient solutions for all formulation strategies At JRS PHARMA, we embrace the needs of our customers across all segments of the global health science industry. Our innovative excipients and coatings, along with our formulation expertise and biopharma services, provide customers with a complete portfolio of solutions for the development and manufacture of solid and liquid dosage forms.

B

inders join and hold all components of a formulation together to achieve a robust dosage form with uniform API content. JRS PHARMA offers a comprehensive line of binders for developing solid dosage formulations including Microcrystalline Cellulose (VIVAPUR® and EMCOCEL®), Dextrates (EMDEX®), Hypromellose (VIVAPHARM® HPMC), and Povidones and Copovidones (VIVAPHARM® PVPP).

Our functional fillers such as Powdered Cellulose (ARBOCEL®), Dicalcium Phosphate (EMCOMPRESS®), or Calcium Sulphate (COMPACTROL®) add bulk to tablets that contain small amounts of API to produce tablets of adequate size and weight for easy ingestion. They can also be used to ensure proper dispersion of ingredients and help deliver a consistent and reliable dosage form.

SUPERDISINTEGRANTS Disintegration of solid dosage forms in an aqueous environment allows release of the API. As tableting becomes more advanced, formulators prefer direct compression blends. Thus, a new disintegrant class called superdisintegrants has emerged in the market.

Superdisintegrants improve disintegration efficiency and decrease use levels compared to traditional disintegrants.

Our superdisintegrants line includes Sodium Starch Glycolate (EXPLOTAB®, VIVASTAR®), Croscarmellose Sodium (VIVASOL®), Soy Polysaccharides (EMCOSOY®) and Crospovidone (VIVAPHARM ® PVPP).

LUBRICANTS The primary function of lubricants in tableting is to reduce the force required to eject the compressed tablet from the die cavity and to prevent the tablets from sticking to the punch. In capsule filling, where a plug is formed, lubricants perform essentially the same function by reducing the force required to transfer the plug from the dosing unit into the capsule. Without lubricants, these processes would be difficult or impossible and would result in

severe damages to the dosage form during ejection.

JRS PHARMA offers both a conventional liquid film-lubricant such as Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (LUBRITAB®) and the highquality boundary lubricants Sodium Stearyl Fumarate (PRUV®), and Magnesium Stearate (LUBRI-PREZ™). At higher concentrations, liquid film-lubricants can also be used in sustained-release matrices.

THICKENERS, STABILISERS AND CARRIERS The thickeners and stabilisers range includes Microcrystalline Cellulose and Carboxymethylcellulose Sodium (VIVAPUR® MCG), Sodium Alginate, Calcium Alginate, and Alginic Acid (VIVAPHARM® Alginates) and VIVAPHARM® Pectins, which stabilise liquid dosage forms, such as suspensions and emulsions for easy handling and content uniformity.

"High functionality excipients simplify formulation development and processing, making them ideally suited to improve overall operational costs" Our carriers are excipients that help deliver one or multiple APIs in a consistent and predictable manner. JRS PHARMA’s microcrystalline cellulose spheres (VIVAPUR® MCC Spheres) are an ideal base on which to apply APIs alone or in combination with protective coatings to provide the desired

categories described above. Their high degree of flowability and compactability enables higher drug loading even at low use levels, resulting in smaller tablets and larger batch sizes.

Due to their multi-functional nature, high functionality excipients simplify formulation development and processing, making them ideally suited to improve overall operational costs while ensuring high industry quality standards. The line includes PROSOLV® SMCC, PROSOLV® EASYtab SP, PROSOLV® EASYtab Nutra and PROSOLV ® ODT G2.

Discover the complete JRS PHARMA range of ready-to-use film coatings and polymers for pharmaceutical applications, including VIVAPHARM® HPMC, VIVAPHARM® PVA and VIVACOAT®. •

release profile. MCC spheres are robust, inert, easy to handle and come in a variety of sizes.

HIGH FUNCTIONALITY EXCIPIENTS The portfolio also contains high functionality excipients for direct compression which combine two or more of the functional

JRS Rettenmaier South Africa E-mail: info@rettenmaier.co.za Phone: 011 534 8619 WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JUNE 2021

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PHARMA FOCUS: TABLETING & ENCAPSULATION

High-value mineral salts for tableting applications Nautilus Chemicals was formed by the Warren brothers, whom have a combined experience of over 35 years in the distribution of speciality ingredients. The brothers also have science and commercial backgrounds and, most importantly, a passion for the products and industries they serve.

T

he company specialises in mainly niche ingredients for the food and beverage, pharmaceutical and veterinary and dietary supplements industries in South Africa. The services offered by Nautilus Chemicals include technical consultation, same-day deliveries and personal interaction.

“Our company represents quality and service. It is an evolving business that brings innovative products to market and which strives for perfection. Our mission statement

premium, reliable products; pro-active and hands-on approach; flexible and customised service and its team of qualified and experienced account managers.

is ‘providing high-quality products at the very best service level in the industry’,” the Warren brothers explain.

Nautilus Chemicals is a reputable name in the food, pharmaceutical and chemical industries thanks to its high-quality

From a production point of view, DC grades offer excellent tableting properties. Due to their physical modification, they help to overcome issues of flowability, dust formation and product loss, which are major challenges that can occur on a production line.

DC GRANULATED MINERAL SALTS Nautilus Chemicals represents Dr. Paul Lohmann® in South Africa. Based in Germany, the company is a manufacturer of high-value mineral salts, which include granules for direct compression (DC), used in tableting applications in pharmaceutical manufacturing.

Dr. Paul Lohmann’s DC granulated mineral salts are specifically designed for the direct compression of tablets as part of an existing formulation. Manufacturing tablets by direct compression eliminates the need for an in-house granulation process and offers vast advantages in terms of production capabilities and costs.

These DC granules available locally from Nautilus Chemicals have excellent handling properties and are recommended for various dosage forms, including tablets, chewing tablets and gums, effervescent tablets, coated tablets, sachets and capsules. •

Nautilus Chemicals – info@nautiluschemicals.co.za

Iron for Tableting Iron(II) Bisglycinate DC ◆ Excellent bioavailability ◆ Optimal tableting properties ◆ Fully reacted Mineral ◆ Well tolerated – minimized side effects

local agent:

T: +27 21 140 0308 E: info@nautiluschemicals.co.za

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JUNE 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

SIGNUP

We are re-launching A full-service experience

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ADVERTISING

Interested in advertising in PACKAGING REVIEW? If you are a supplier to the packaging industry, this will be an ideal opportunity to showcase your product offering and create additional brand awareness within the food, beverage, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, personal care, and home care manufacturing sectors.

Contact our advertising sales executives to book your space: Anita Raath Sales executive +27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive +27 (0)83 260 6060

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INDUSTRY TALK

World’s top 50 cosmetics brands lose over $12bn worth of brand value According to the latest Brand Finance Cosmetics 50 2021 report, the total value of the world’s top 50 most valuable cosmetics brands has declined by 9%. Their value decreased from $137.5bn in 2020 to $124.8bn in 2021, as a direct result of the COVID-19 pandemic.

A

s a large and diverse industry, there have been mixed fortunes for cosmetics brands, with colour cosmetics the most negatively impacted category, recording an average brand value decline of 15%. Multi-level marketing brands – including Avon (brand value down 24% to $772m) and Oriflame (down 1% to $802m) – have faced a 12% drop on average in brand value. The industry’s largest brands in hair care, razors and fragrance have also been hard hit with an average brand value drop of 10%.

That being said, according to Brand Finance’s global brand equity monitor, the cosmetics industry has the highest reputation of all industries globally – only matched by the food industry. A strong reputation, and thus a strong brand, will stand cosmetics brands in good stead to recover at pace in the coming year.

Annie Brown, Brand Finance associate, comments: “The pandemic has undoubtedly

Did you know?

Brand Finance is the world’s leading brand valuation consultancy. Bridging the gap between marketing and finance, it evaluates the strength of brands and quantifies their financial value to help organisations of all kinds make strategic decisions. Brand Finance has offices in over 20 countries, offering services on all continents. Every year, it conducts more than 5 000 brand valuations, supported by original market research, and publishes nearly 100 reports, which rank brands across all industries and countries.

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JUNE 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

The top 10 most valuable cosmetics brands, ranked by BrandFinance

forced change upon the cosmetics industry, from stifling demand – a result of lifestyle changes and financial uncertainty – to the rapid rise of digitalisation and e-commerce.

Brands that have shown the savvy and ability to adapt will bounce back from the turmoil of the last year, unlike those that have failed to adapt quickly enough.”

L’ORÉAL STRIKES AGAIN L’Oréal has retained the title of the world’s most valuable cosmetics brands for the second consecutive year, despite recording a 13% brand value loss to $10.2bn. The drop in brand value is largely a result of the dipping of the brand’s financial outlook, which is a consequence of the pandemic.

For the first time, Brand Finance has conducted global market research as part of

" The cosmetics industry has the highest reputation of all industries globally – only matched by the food industry" the Global Brand Equity Monitor for L’Oréal and L’Oréal Paris brands. The research demonstrates that the brand’s reputation among consumers is significantly lower outside of Europe and North America, particularly in markets such as India, China

INDUSTRY TALK

and Japan. At the end of last year, the brand undertook some strategic reshuffling of L’Oréal’s geographic zones – with APAC being separated into North and South – which could be a potential indicator of future growth plans, post the pandemic.

The beauty behemoth’s position in the market still remains a cut above the rest and it boasts an incredibly strong heritage in the global industry. It has been 50 years since L’Oréal first used the slogan ‘because you’re worth it’ and the phrase still bears meaning to consumers today, with the brand successfully remaining relevant through product innovations

Entering the ranking in 36th position, Fresh – which was purchased by LVMH in 2000 – benefits from the combination of LVMH capital backing, paired with the founders remaining in control.

and continued fresh marketing campaigns.

YVES ROCHER UP AN IMPRESSIVE 71% With a brand value $2.4bn, Yves Rocher is the fastest growing brand in this year’s Brand Finance Cosmetics 50 2021 ranking, following an impressive 71% brand value increase and simultaneously jumping eight spots from 28 th to 20 th.

Yves Rocher is bouncing back following a sharp decline in brand value is recent years due to the decision to pull out of the UK amid Brexit.

The brand does, however, continue to perform well in mainland Europe. During the initial peak of the coronavirus pandemic, Yves Rocher’s factories were repurposed to create alcohol gels, producing nearly 45 000 bottles a week.

The UK’s The Body Shop has claimed 49th position. The brand has undertaken a complete product and branding overhaul in recent years since it was bought by Brazil’s Natura &Co from L’Oréal. The Body Shop now positions itself as an activist brand at the core which will be ‘forever against animal testing’. Sales for the brand were solid on its e-commerce platform, which more than compensated for sales lost in its 3 000 stores located in more than 70 countries.

FRESH AND THE BODY SHOP STORM INTO RANKING

NATURA IS THE INDUSTRY’S STRONGEST

New entrants Fresh (brand value $1.1bn), and The Body Shop ($725mn) are the second and third fastest growing brands, up 53% and 22% respectively.

customer familiarity, staff satisfaction and corporate reputation. Alongside revenue forecasts, brand strength is a crucial driver of brand value. According to these criteria, Natura (up 19% to $1.7bn) is the world’s strongest cosmetics brand, with a Brand Strength Index (BSI) score of 86.7 out of 100 and a corresponding AAA brand strength rating.

According to Brand Finance’s Global Brand Equity Monitor research, Natura is perceived to be an extremely strong brand across Brazil and South America and although the brand is lesser known outside the region, its proposition remains favoured internationally thanks to the rise in popularity of natural brands.

The brand was largely able to shelter itself from the negative impact of the pandemic due to the diversified risk of its business operations, which cover a wide variety of products from bath, fragrance and body care to makeup.

Furthermore, the brand is bolstered by the success of its parent company Natura & Co – which owns Aesop, The Body Shop and Avon – and scores well across corporate brand measures including governance, sustainability and employee appeal.

To purchase a copy of the full Brand Finance Cosmetics 50 2021 report, visit www. brandirectory.com/rankings/cosmetics. •

In addition to measuring overall brand value, Brand Finance also evaluates the relative strength of brands, based on factors such as marketing investment,

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JUNE 2021

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INGREDIENTS

New insights into the future of beauty Tomorrow’s Beauty is the new trends commentary from IMCD for the personal care industry. It is the third in a series of commentaries from the global speciality chemicals and ingredients distributor, which explore the markets in which IMCD Personal Care operates.

S

upported by the latest market data, Tomorrow’s Beauty commentary is intended as an inspirational guide. It features a series of sit-down interviews with technical and business experts from IMCD Personal Care, who share relevant insights into megatrends such as ‘making a positive impact’, ‘the quest for transparency’, ‘inclusivity’, and ‘entertaining experiences’. These expert viewpoints reveal how each of the four megatrends are evolving in response to the latest ideas and innovations.

MAKING A POSITIVE IMPACT Consumers are redefining value through a lens which scrutinises the environmental and social impact their purchases. More individuals are choosing brands that demonstrate a commitment to societal values that align with their own as they look to make changes today which will enable a better future for tomorrow.

Consumers are also keen to understand how manufacturers of cosmetics plan to take a more sustainable and conscious approach in the long term. It is important for brands to demonstrate their integrity through transparency. You must

be able give back and do good in a meaningful way, by aligning with a movement that has a real connection to your products, services, people or local communities.

CELEBRATING INDIVIDUALITY These days, consumers want to be considered for their differences and respected for what makes them unique.

When it comes to cosmetics and personal care, beauty shoppers expect brands to demonstrate inclusivity in their product offerings. It’s not enough to feel catered-to as part of a demographic or subculture – instead, it’s important for consumers to have access to solutions that suit them personally, on an individual level. They want products that not only meet their aspirations and needs perfectly, but also respect and celebrate their individuality.

IMCD advises that manufacturers need to take the time to get to know the needs of their target market, offering consumers personalised experiences. Leading brands understand the importance of taking their consumers on a journey, for example with an online questionnaire on their skin type or beauty interests, in order to provide them with personalised product recommendations.

IN TRANSPARENCY WE TRUST Growing healthcare concerns have led consumers to demand more transparency from brands and easy access to ingredient information, so they can make informed choices as they shop. It is also important for products to demonstrate value through their demonstrated safety and effectiveness.

"It is important for brands to demonstrate their integrity through transparency" 32

JUNE 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Did you know?

76% of consumers are drawn to brands that are committed to using goodquality ingredients, 65% support brands that treat their employees well and 62% prefer brands focused on reducing plastics and improving the environment.

Source: Accenture Survey, 2018 More brands are understanding their role in empowering consumers to make informed choices by providing functional information in a way that connects with them emotionally and supporting them through expert guidance.

Examples include campaigns that go behind the scenes, with documentary-style footage and compelling narratives on how a product is made and where its ingredients are sourced.

EXPERIENCE COMES ALIVE Millennials prefer life experiences over the simple act of buying goods. The role that stimulation and entertainment play in decisionmaking has become crucial. No longer should the experiential be reduced to just another marketing tool. Instead, consumers are experiencing powerful emotional connections to brands that create a point of differentiation in this regard.

Irene Cantos, business group director, IMCD Personal Care, explains: “With this commentary, we want to share our view on current key market drivers, which – according to our experts – will continue to impact the beauty industry in 2021 and beyond. We are happy to share this knowledge, along with some of the formulation/ product concepts developed in our network of dedicated personal care laboratories, to continue inspiring our business partners with innovations that align macro-trends with the regional and local needs of consumers.”

To download a copy of IMCD’s Tomorrow’s Beauty trends commentary and find out more about its personal care business unit, visit https://bit.ly/3f20eVg. •

IMCD – www.imcdgroup.com

INGREDIENTS

Smart melanin activator for a safe tan In response to the market need for a product that promotes glowing skin without the risk of sun exposure, wesource, Seppic’s brand for cosmetic active ingredients, has developed Lumipod.

F

or many consumers, having tanned skin is often associated with health and well-being and is even considered a sign of youth. Yet, unprotected sun exposure generates several skin care risks, including premature ageing.

To develop Lumipod, Seppic selected a natural leucine amino acid known to be associated with the process of skin pigmentation. Its scientists designed a new Aminovector by grafting a hydrophilic leucine to a lipophilic octanoic acid creating an amphiphilic lipoaminoacid with high

skin bioavailability. An additional esterification step allowed Seppic to provide a defined, titrated and stable ingredient with excellent bio-affinity and strong efficacy.

This new active ingredient, known as Lumipod, is COSMOS approved as it is of 100% natural origin.

MORE EFFECTIVE THAN THE MARKET REFERENCE Lumipod is a tan booster with a proven dual action on skin. Available locally from CJP Chemicals, it stimulates melanin synthesis and the expression of genes involved in the production and transport of melanogenic enzymes. In vivo tests have shown that 1% Lumipod in a topical product provides a better efficacy than acetyl tyrosine (the market reference), with significantly visible results after four days from the time of application (6% of tanning variation measured by

" 1% Lumipod in a topical product provides a better efficacy than acetyl tyrosine"

individual typology angle on volunteers). The active ingredient has also shown to have a long-lasting |effect (15% of the variation in skin colour was maintained 15 days after the last application of a product containing 1% Lumipod).

Anne-Sophie Dutailly, wesource marketing product manager, comments: “This new active ingredient illustrates Seppic expertise and ability to meet consumers needs for naturality and efficacy. Seppic’s team designs, develops and creates ingredients with the highest respect for people and the environment, advancing the science of ingredients for all.” •

CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Seppic – www.seppic.com/en

Unlocking potential, innovation and excellence on the African continent CJP Chemicals, established in 1986, is a leading stockist and distributor of both speciality and commodity raw chemicals to a variety of industries.

With sales offices and warehouses in all four major business districts of South Africa, namely Johannesburg (HQ), Durban, Cape Town & Port Elizabeth, CJP Chemicals has the capacity to supply a diverse range of products. Together with our strong and long standing partnerships with both international and local producers, CJP Chemicals has the reach to source, procure and deliver commercial, technical and logistical solutions to all our customers.

Our Personal Care division offers a comprehensive range of innovative ingredients that deliver ease-of-use technical performance and efficacy to our customers’ formulations.

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

Anti Ageing Agents Anti Bacteria Anti caking Anti Fungal Bulking Agent Butters Carbomers Carrier Oils Conditioning Agents Emolients Emulsifier Essential oils Excipents

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

Exfoliating Agents Fatty Acids Fatty Alcohols Fillers Fragrances Gelling Agents Glycols Humectants Matting Agents Moisturising Agents Peeling Granules Petrolatum Polymers

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

Polysorbates Preservatives Sebum Regulator Silicones Skin Whiteners Soaps Solubilzer UV Filters Surfactants Thio-Compounds Vegetable Oils Waxes White Mineral Oils

Tel: 011-494-6700 • Email: nataliem@cjpchemicals.co.za • Web: www.cjpchemicals.co.za

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INGREDIENTS

Skin care ingredients deemed “top innovations” on in-cosmetics Discover

Exhibitors from across all the international shows in the portfolio of the in-cosmetics group have been using the digital space, in-cosmetics Discover, to showcase their latest innovations. Some ingredients have proved particularly popular, with those in the skin care category capturing the interest of many R&D professionals.

F

ollowing the success of its virtual new ingredients showcase sessions, the in-cosmetics group has revealed some of the most exciting ingredients found on its recently launched Discover platform.

Skin care has boomed during the pandemic as consumers have spent hours watching themselves on zoom and have found more time and money to invest in their skin care routine. Consumers have also had new challenges to tackle such as ‘maskne’. The cultural shifts have resulted in a reduction in the use of makeup whilst many are focusing on maintaining or attaining healthy skin with an even tone. As a result, consumers are adopting simplified skin care routines using products formulated with multifunctional ingredients.

The skin care market is projected to be worth $200.25 billion by 20261, so it comes as no surprise that skin care innovations pique the interest of those searching for the latest launches on in-cosmetics Discover.

INGREDIENTS TO ADDRESS AGEING CONCERNS Skin ageing has always been a primary concern for consumers. The issue is addressed by Kalichem’s new Kalibiome range of pure postbiotics, available locally from Danlink Ingredients. Obtained through a patented bio-fermentation process, these postbiotics have the potential to become the next go-to for formulators due to their compatibility with all the preservatives used in cosmetics. In vivo and in vitro tests demonstrate the range’s antiageing capabilities combined with improving the skin barrier and reducing inflammation on skin and tissues.

Clariant Active Ingredients also received attention with its ingredient, Celyscence, a ground-breaking skin care active that allows for healthy skin ageing by inducing apoptosis in senescent cells.

Visitors to in-cosmetics Discover have also been learning more about Solbrol FFA Plus from Lanxess Distribution. This is an aqueous solution of natural fruit acids and

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Users are required to sign up to in-cosmetics Discover in order to make use of the functionality and vast information included on the site

phenylpropanol made up entirely of renewable and GMO-free ingredients. The high content of alpha-hydroxy acids in Solbrol FFA Plus helps to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, improve skin’s texture and tone, unblock and cleanse pores, and improve the skin’s general condition.

SCALP CARE IN FOCUS Many consumers now see scalp care as an extension of their skin care routine. This subcategory is expected to grow phenomenally and was listed in Forbes’ biggest beauty trends of 2021.2 Ingredients like Algaktiv’s new BioSKN for scalp, which provides an ultimate super food for scalp renewal, have been viewed many times on the platform by users. The prebiotic effect of BioSKN preserves the scalp’s microbiome ensuring it remains balanced resulting in calm, soothed skin and healthy hair growth.

Available locally from IMCD South Africa, CutiBiome CLR is a synergistic complex of lipophilic extracts from manuka, black pepper and magnolia which promotes healthy skin microbiota to reduce dandruff and scalp oiliness, as well as sensitivity and itchiness.

CREATING CONNECTIONS THAT MATTER Commenting on the popular innovations on in-cosmetics Discover, Cathy Laporte, portfolio director at Reed Exhibitions, says: “We are very pleased to witness how successful in-cosmetics Discover has been so far.

Did you know?

In-cosmetics Discover allows users to easily search and filter results to find a perfect product. It also includes detailed descriptions, videos, images and the opportunity to contact the supplier directly, and new suppliers/ products are added weekly. Take a look and see what there is to discover, visit www.discover.in-cosmetics.com.

Whilst the world remains largely online, it is great to see our exhibitors showcasing their innovations virtually and hundreds of manufacturers and R&D professionals actively browsing the latest launches. It’s also encouraging to see how users save products on the platform to review them later. At this point, if a particular ingredient is of interest, the supplier and user may connect, potentially resulting in a new business opportunity just like at one of our shows.” •

REFERENCE: 1. https://www.globenewswire.com; Skincare Market Revenue to Hit USD 200.25 Billion by 2026; Driven by the Increasing Investment in Product R&D, says Fortune Business Insights™ 2. www.forbes.com; Seven Industry Experts Predict The Biggest Beauty Trends Of 2021 by Gabby Shacknai

in-cosmetics – www.in-cosmetics.com

For Anna, Naomi and Carl, living in the city and being connected to nature are not mutually exclusive. They live and love a green life

INGREDIENTS

The rise of phytocannabinoids – from hype to powerful actives

The CBD beauty trend is booming. Recent scientific evidence suggests that CBD and other hemp phytocannabinoids exert valuable biological activities on skin cells and could be promising skin care ingredients. Greentech Group and Phytograde are working together to unlock the potential of CBD and other phytocannabinoids for dermocosmetics.

T

he main reason consumers are so willing to use CBD-based beauty products is that this ‘hot’ ingredient is perceived as safe, healthy and effective in delivering real benefits. This is according to a 2019 consumer study by the Benchmarking Company involving 7 000 people. Despite some persistent misunderstandings about CBD and hemp varieties, 61% of the study respondents said they do believe in the therapeutic properties of CBD and its ability to address cosmetic concerns (58%). Among those who currently do not use CBD products, 68% are willing to try them.

Overall, CBD is perceived as a ‘good-for-you’ ingredient. This resonates particularly well with the self-care trend that has emanated from the COVID-19 pandemic and propelled natural cosmetics into the spotlight to take care of one’s self, both physically and mentally.

HIGHLY-PURE CBD ISOLATE Through their partnership, Greentech Group – represented locally by Natchem – and Phytograde – the European Cannabinoid Institute – are providing potent and safe hempderived and phytocannabinoid-based active ingredients, starting with CBD isolate of at least 98% purity. CBD doesn’t exert psychotropic activity unlike delta-9-tetrahydrocannabidiol (THC). Different types of CBD-containing hemp extracts are available for beauty and personal care applications, such as full spectrum and broad-spectrum extracts as well as an isolate.

All three of these ingredients differ in terms of purity and CBD content.

The full-spectrum extract is rich in CBD and contains THC, terpenes and flavonoids. The broad-spectrum option does not contain THC. CBD isolate is the most qualitative extract as it features at least 98% pure CBD and less than 0.2% THC. This extract ensures reliable safety and efficacy as well as convenient organoleptic

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properties making it easier to use. It is supplied as an odourless and tasteless white crystalline oil-soluble powder. CBD isolate is obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction followed by advanced purification and crystallisation to reach the required purity.

CBD BIOACTIVITIES IN SKIN As a small lipidic molecule (314.46 Da), CBD is able to penetrate the skin under specific conditions and to interact with the endocannabinoid cutaneous system (ECS).1 The ECS is an evolutionary conserved network of molecular signalling involved in body homeostasis. It is made up of signalling molecules called endocannabinoids. The main ones are Anandamide (N-arachidonoyl ethanolamide) and 2-arachidonoyl glycerol, specific receptors (CB1, CB2) and enzymes that synthetise and break down endocannabinoids.1 There is extensive data from research on the functions of the ECS in the modulation of the central nervous system and immune system.

Recent research has raised evidence of ECS’s critical role in skin homeostasis and barrier function. Its dysregulation has been linked to various skin concerns like acne, itching, atopic dermatitis and pigmentary disorders.1 As a phytocannabinoid, similar to endocannabinoids, CBD can interact with the endocannabinoid cutaneous system when applied topically. In vitro, CBD was found to be a CB1 antagonist and a CB2 inverse agonist.2 It has also been described as an inhibitor of fatty acid amide hydrolase – an enzyme involved in the degradation of anandamide.3 Several biological activities of CBD have been demonstrated, with the anti-inflammatory activity being described the most. In vitro studies on skin cells showed that CBD decreased UVinduced inflammation, probably by activating PPAR-γ and reducing NF-kB pathways. It also

"More studies are needed to gain a better understanding of CBD’s complex mechanisms of action and clinical efficacy" reduced TNF-alpha-induced inflammation and decreased prostaglandin synthase activity and thus prostaglandin formation.4 Based on this data, it has been suggested that CBD could be a promising ingredient to treat inflammatory skin conditions such as psoriasis or atopic dermatitis.5 Acne and seborrheic dermatitis could be also promising areas for topical CBD products as the ECS plays a significant role in lipogenesis. In vitro studies on sebocytes and ex vivo studies on fullthickness human skin organ cultures showed CBD exerted a lipostatic effect and proliferationsuppressing effect on sebocytes, along with anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects.6, 7, 8 CBD also appears to be interesting in the prevention of skin ageing, which is a leading cosmetic application. It is proven in vitro that CBD stimulates the Nrf2-mediated antioxidant system, counteracting UV-induced oxidative stress. In fibroblasts, CBD was shown to increase proteins involved in the dermalepidermal junction, as well as fibroblastmatrix interactions and signal transduction.4 It also decreased the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-9, MMP- 13), preventing matrix and dermal-epidermal junction degradation.

Overall, in vitro and ex vivo studies have demonstrated that CBD could exert multiple beneficial properties, bringing scientific evidence to support the positive perception

INGREDIENTS

JOINT RESEARCH PROJECT

of consumers. However, more studies are needed to gain a better understanding of CBD’s complex mechanisms of action and clinical efficacy. Greentech Group and Phytograde are committed to bringing the industry such evidence in the near future.

QUALITY AND TRACEABILITY Non-GMO industrial hemp Cannabis sativa L. crops are used to produce CBD isolate and only cultivars authorised by the French regulation are processed. These carefully selected cultivars naturally feature ≥ 20% of CBD and < 0.2% THC. The CBD isolate is subjected to rigorous in-house and third-party laboratory analysis, to guarantee the high quality, traceability and safety of the product in compliance with regulatory standards.

The crops are located in Latin America, in the Antioquia region of Colombia. The area has a natural 12-hour year-long photoperiod which makes it possible to have four culture cycles per year without the need for artificial light and minimises environmental impact.

The crops are located at an altitude of more than 2 000m in order to benefit from the

There are more than 100 phytocannabinoids identified in hemp which could deliver specific therapeutic properties, depending on their ability to interact with the ECS. Of those 100 molecules, interest is growing in cannabigerol (CBG), cannabinol (CBN), cannabigevarine (CBGV) etc.

Through their combined research, the R&D teams of Greentech Group and Phytograde hope to increase knowledge on these and other phytocannabinoid molecules and to unlock their full potential as valuable natural active ingredients for cosmetics, dermocosmetics and nutraceuticals.

most fertile, richest and unpolluted soils.

This is critical as hemp can bioaccumulate heavy metals.

Sustainable cultivation is ensured by rigorously selecting hemp producers who combine a high level of biodiversity with environmentally-friendly practices that preserve natural resources. Measures such as educational support have also been

In vitro and ex vivo studies have demonstrated that CBD could exert multiple beneficial properties in cosmetics

implemented in the region to benefit the communities and improve their quality of life. • REFERENCE: 1. Baswan et al. 2020. Therapeutic potential of cannabidiol (CBD) for skin health and disorders.

Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology.

13, 927-942.

2. Thomas et al. 2007. Cannabidiol displays unexpectedly high potency as an antagonist of CB1 and CB2 receptor agonists in vitro. Br J Pharmacol.

150(5):613–623.

3. Di Marzo. 2008. Endocannabinoids: synthesis and degradation. Rev Physiol Biochem Pharmacol.

160:1–24.

4. Gegotek et al. 2019. The differences in the proteome profile of cannabidiol-treated skin fibroblasts following UVA or UVB irradiation in 2D and 3D cell culture. Cells. 8, 995; doi:10.3390/cells8090995 5. Tóth et al. 2019. Cannabinoid Signaling in the Skin: Therapeutic Potential of the “C(ut)annabinoid” System. Molecules. 24, 918; doi:10.3390/ molecules24050918.

6. Jin and Lee. 2018. The ameliorative effect of hemp seed hexane extracts on the Propionibacterium acnes-induced inflammation and lipogenesis in sebocytes. PLoS One. 13(8):e0202933.

7. Oláh et al. 2014. Cannabidiol exerts sebostatic and anti-inflammatory effects on human sebocytes. J Clin Invest. 124(9):3713–3724.

8. Petrosino et al. 2018. Anti-inflammatory properties of cannabidiol, a nonpsychotropic cannabinoid, in experimental allergic contact dermatitis.

J Pharmacology Experimental Therapeutics.

365(3):652–663.

Greentech Group – www.greentech.fr/en Natchem – www.natchem.co.za Phytograde Institute – www.phytograde.fr/en

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INGREDIENTS

Natural, trusted and proven effective

Good ingredients are the foundation of great formulations. Even before the advent of the pandemic the cosmetics industry was under pressure to provide more sustainable, ethical and eco-friendly formulations without compromising efficacy or innovation. COVID-19 has brought an additional element of critical thinking to the fore, all the while demanding increased performance from personal care products. By Karen Maier of Merck

C

hoosing ingredients to meet market demands can be daunting, but one way to capture the attention of your target audience is to use natural ingredients with a proven track record. Although RonaCare Bisabolol is by no means a new ingredient, it fulfils many of these requirements. It is allnatural, sustainably sourced from the wood of the Candeia tree and comes with all the prerequisite certifications such as vegan, halal and COSMOS. Most importantly though, it is effective.

The primary benefit of using bisabolol in a formulation is its ability to soothe – be it irritated and inflamed skin, reducing UV induced skin redness, or caring for dry and sensitive skin. It also protects the skin against external aggressors and helps counteract the signs of premature ageing. Apart from the obvious uses in skin and body products, bisabolol can be used to great effect in post-depilation products or after shave balms when skin is at its most vulnerable. It can be incorporated into sunscreens or after sun formulations, and lastly bisabolol is particularly suitable for baby care ranges.

RonaCare Bisabolol is an (-)-α-Bisabolol isolated from the Brazilian Vanillosmopsis tree, which is an important advantage of this particular version of bisabolol. Its sustainable production is based on a fixed forest and stewardship plan, which includes ongoing re-planting and natural regeneration of the trees to ensure their protection.

In vivo and in vitro studies have both proven that natural alpha bisabolol is twice as effective as any synthetic version.

CARING FOR STRESSED SKIN Sensitive and problematic skin not only reacts to the slightest change in the environment but also to what is happening internally – once the skin is thrown out of balance, for whatever

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Table 1: Melt Away Makeup Cleansing Balm Phase A

B

C

Ingredients

INCI EU

RonaCare Bisabolol nat.

Bisabolol

0.50

Oxynex K liquid

Peg-8, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid

0.10

Cithrol 10GTIS

Peg-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate

10.00

Crodamol IPIS

Isopropyl Isostearate

10.00

Dub Zenoat

Propanediol Dicaprylate

20.00

Isostearyl Isostearate

Isostearyl Isostearate

10.00

Lipocire A SG

C10-18 Triglycerides

5.00

Lipex Cocoasoft

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

5.00

White Beeswax Pastilles NF SP-422P

Cera Alba

12.00

Myritol 318

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

26.80

Colorona Majestic Green

CI 77891, Mica, CI 77288

0.10

Ronastar Golden Lights

Alumina (or Synthetic Sapphire), CI 77891, Tin Oxide

0.50

A melting balm

reason, restoring the balance is challenging.

Over the past year, we have all been under severe stress. The pandemic has impacted our emotional wellbeing, which in turn has had an effect on our skin. In addition, our skin has suffered the consequences of exposure to harsh sanitisers and constantly wearing masks. When our skin does not look great, we tend to not feel confident about ourselves. This is where RonaCare Balmance makes a difference as a skin-comfort stabiliser, helping to restore a sense of well-being.

RonaCare Balmance is a natural extract of the Centaurea cyanus (cornflower), which grows in the beautiful French meadows. The unique production method used for RonaCare Balmance is based on a complex, multistage extraction process, under sustainable considerations. The extracted ingredient, which makes the difference in balancing compromised

skin, is feruloyl-serotonin, sometimes also known as moschamine.

THE FEEL-GOOD FACTOR There are many benefits to incorporating RonaCare Balmance in a formulation. It reduces skin’s susceptibility to redness and reduces roughness and itching, even if these concerns were caused by external factors such as surfactants in skin washes. Skin is calmed and redness eased as the active ingredient has shown to diminish the biomarker associated with inflammation.

RonaCare Balmance helps suppress skin irritation, not just by providing immediate relief but also in minimising the risk of long-term imbalances in the skin. Balance is restored as the active ingredient reduces the susceptibility

Did you know?

RonaCare Balmance works on two levels.

Firstly, it impacts the appearance of the skin, and then it works on a sensory level, impacting how the skin feels.

%

INGREDIENTS Table 2: Natural Dehydrated Rinse-Off Clay Mask Phase

A

B

C

Ingredients

INCI EU

RonaCare Bisabolol nat.

Bisabolol

1.00

RonaCare Balmance

Maltodextrin, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract

7.00

RonaCare Ectoin

Ectoin

2.00

Yellow Illite Clay

Illite

50.00

Tapioca Pure

Tapioca Starch

33.00

Jojoba Oil, bio

Simmondsia Chinensis (Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil)

3.00

Ronastar Golden Sparks

Calcium Aluminium Borosilicate, Silica, CI 77891, Tin Oxide

4.00

"RonaCare Balmance makes a difference as a skin-comfort stabiliser, helping to restore a sense of well-being"

%

are aimed at sensitive or problematic skin that is susceptible to uncomfortable conditions like redness and a rough and overly dry epidermis.

FRESH FORMULATIONS FOR SELF-CARE

of over-reactive skin while the sensation of skin sensitivity is also lessened. All these skin

As part of the current self-care trend, which seeks to ensure physical as well as mental well-being, many consumers are choosing

benefits have been proven in in vivo and in vitro studies, confirming that RonaCare Balmance provides a feel-good factor for sensitive and stressed skin.

It is suitable for a whole host of skin and body care products, especially if the products

the safety and comfort of their own homes to elevate their time in the bath or shower to a home spa experience.

What would a spa experience be without fresh and fun formulations? It is all about transformation, not only of

Centaurea cyanus (cornflowers)

one’s self but also transforming products, such as melting balms, oil-to-milk cleansers, waterless shampoo bars or stunning face masks.

Yes, consumers are demanding more – but with good ingredients and innovative formulations these demands can definitely be met. Have a look at tables 1 and 2 for some inspiration from Merck. •

Merck – www.merckgroup.com

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz

Sensetek.indd 1

2017/03/02 11:50 AM

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAYL 2021

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INGREDIENTS

EMPOWER YOUR BODY’S NATURAL SHIELD With solutions from the ceramide expert

Solutions from the ceramide expert Pollution, ageing, seasonal factors, UV irradiation and genetic predisposition lead to the disruption of the natural protective barrier of our skin and hair. Evonik’s technologies shield this natural protective barrier for a moisturised, vital, smooth and healthy look.

B

eauty brands face many challenges in today’s fast-moving cosmetics industry. The market is saturated, and consumers can become confused with the vast amount of product choices. For this reason, it’s important to always focus on the right trends – especially for established components like ceramides in hair and skin care products.

Disruption of our natural protective skin and hair barrier is caused by external and genetic factors. Evonik’s technologies protect, replenish and strengthen this important barrier.

For more than 25 years, Evonik has developed a range of sphingolipid and ceramide technologies – including the production of pure human skin-identical ceramides suitable for use in a variety of applications. These technologies protect against moisture loss and external changes by reinforcing the natural lipid barrier of dry, sensitive or ageing skin and hair.

SHPINGOLIPID AND CERAMIDE TECHNOLOGIES

Pollution, the aging process, seasonal factors, UV irradiation and predisposition: There are many threats to disrupt our natural protective skin and hair barrier. Evonik’s ceramide and sphingolipid technologies preserve and maintain this barrier. Our actives keep skin hydrated and protect hair from damage. The result is a more vital, smooth and healthy look. With more than 25 years of experience in ceramides, we offer a comprehensive portfolio to boost formulations with ceramides. www.evonik.com/personal-care Evonik Personal Care @evonikPC @evonikpc

The benefits of Evonik’s shpingolipid and ceramide technologies range from strengthening the skin from the stratum corneum to the subcutis, reinforcing the skin lipid barrier, improving skin moisturisation, protecting from harmful external effects and counteracting dermal photoageing to the prevention of hair loss.

Evonik’s ceramide technologies include: • Ceramide III, which builds a protective layer to keep moisture in the skin and plump it up.

• Ceramide IIIB, which acts in the same ways at ceramide III but has better oil solubility.

• Ceramide III EP MB, which is an easy-to-process Ceramide NP blend to support the renewal of the skin’s natural protective layer.

• Ceramide VI, which normalises the skin’s natural desquamation (peeling) process.

Evonik also offers skin-identical Phytosphingosine, which is naturally present in the stratum corneum. This ingredient improves the appearance of red, inflamed and blemished skin by soothing the skin and balancing the microflora.

Phytosphingosine SLC is a novel sphingolipid derivative with unique antiageing properties. It smooths skin’s appearance and reduces deep wrinkles of chronologically and photo-aged skin by restoring the dermal-epidermal junction and inducing the production of pro-collagen 1 in the papillary dermis.

ADVANCED CERAMIDE SYSTEMS AND COMPLEXES SK-Influx technology is Evonik’s advanced ceramide system of skin-identical ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. This technology perfectly mimics natural skin lipid barrier resulting in its regeneration.

Hairflux offers the power of olives combined with the well-known strength of ceramides. This multifunctional active complex has the potential to calm an irritated scalp and repair damaged hair.

Bodyflux Olive is a ceramide complex derived from organic olive oil, which improves epidermal moisturisation. •

Evonik – www.personal-care.evonik.com

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21-01-074 P&C Review, AZ Ceramides, 262x68mm, engl.indd 1

21.05.21 13:54

INGREDIENTS

Award-winning emulsifier enables efficient formulations BergaMuls ET 1, the natural thickening emulsifier from Berg + Schmidt, won first prize at the 19th European BSB Innovation Awards in the Natural Products/Raw Materials category – section ‘recipients, protection and skin soothing’.

B

erg + Schmidt is an expert in functional raw materials. As a moisturising emulsifier and thickening agent, BergaMuls ET 1 consists of beta glucan and pectin. It enables highly efficient formulations for creams, masks and lotions. Thanks to its COSMOS and Natrue approval and its sustainable life cycle, the ingredient is ideally suited to multi-faceted, vegan and natural cosmetics. It also allows for a clean label declaration.

BergaMuls ET 1 is produced from renewable fruit and cereal fibres, so it is completely natural. The ivory-coloured fine powder is easy to incorporate in either hot or cold processes as a stable standalone or co-emulsifier. It has advanced resistance to shear forces, good water-binding properties and is compatible with all oil polarities in a broad pH range from 4 to 9.

Depending on the size of the oil phase, between 1.5% and 5% BergaMuls ET 1 to obtain the best efficiency in a final formulation.

ECO-FRIENDLY AND HOLISTIC Florence Olechowski, division manager cosmetics at Berg + Schmidt, comments: “We are very pleased to receive this year’s BSB Innovation Award for BergaMuls ET 1, because it is recognition of our commitment to all that we do. We not only want to develop products that are efficient and easy to process, but also believe our natural and functional ingredients should protect the environment and provide consumers with holistic benefits.”

BergaMuls ET 1 does not show any incompatibilities with electrolytes or UV filters, while offering a good skin tolerance.

"BergaMuls ET 1 is produced from renewable fruit and cereal fibres, so it is completely natural" The ingredient is available locally from Berg + Schmidt’s distributor, Afrisil Speciality Ingredients. • Afrisil Speciality Ingredients – karin@afrisil.com Berg + Schmidt – www.berg-schmidt.de

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INGREDIENTS

Togetherness, hygiene and sustainability trends in beauty care Clariant launches BeautyForward No. 5 to provide personal care brands and manufacturers with inspiration for the ‘new normal’ which captures the shifting needs of personal care consumers and links them to innovative chemistry. The trends concept also focuses on three core global trends of ubuntu, hygiene beauty and beauty unwrapped.

W

ith BeautyForward No. 5, the innovative speciality chemical company is encouraging the personal care industry to embrace consumers’ drive for community and to adapt to new societal behaviours present in our world today.

“In 2021, beauty consumers are motivated by new personal desires, intensified care needs and often greater appreciation of our relationship with the world around us, brought on by the experiences of the past year and changes in lifestyle, habits and perceptions.

Such rapid evolution is calling for creativity and innovation from the personal care industry.

We’re very excited to share trend insights and demonstrate how our ingredients support the industry to respond thoughtfully with relatable, effective skin, body and hair care solutions as

Did you know?

Plantasens Biogum Tara is nature’s gift for fine-tuning the feel of beauty products. Developed by Clariant, this natural rheology modifier is said to outperform current ‘green’ alternatives both in terms of its thickening and texturising effect. It has a Renewable Carbon Index of 100%, complies with all major ecolabels, such as COSMOS or NATRUE, and comes from a highlyattractive background in the Peruvian Andes. The benefits of Plantasens Biogum Tara include: superior viscosity; lower stringiness; pleasant texture and ecolabel compatibility. we move forward,” comments Fabio Caravieri, global marketing segment leader personal care at Clariant.

In a world establishing a ‘new normal’, BeautyForward No. 5 delivers inspirational formulations tailored to new social norms. This spans skin care for mask-wearing and moisturising hand cleansers as well as relaxing formulations highlighting the overlap between skin care and self-care.

The formulations are crafted around the takeaways of three global trends, including ubuntu, hygiene beauty and beauty unwrapped. They boost the creation of more sustainable and environmentally-conscious personal care products, delivering efficacy to support key sought-after claims through advanced naturederived and high Renewable Carbon Index ingredients.

UBUNTU AND HYGIENE BEAUTY TRENDS A Zulu word, Ubuntu translated into English means “I am because we are”. From China to

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INGREDIENTS

Clariant BeautyForward No. 5 product samples

the UK, market data shows consumers are increasingly taking steps towards feeling a sense of community. This has given rise to a demand for products that address widespread, commonplace and relatable needs, such as skin care for mask-wearing, or at-home hair care.

Clariant’s Soothe + Cool Facial Serum focuses on the demand for skin care for mask wearing. This soothing serum is packed with actives and emollients for moisturised, hydrated and protected skin. Its lightweight texture and rapid absorption ensure the serum goes on smoothly, providing immediate relief from mask-induced skin irritation.

The key ingredients in the facial serum are: • Sensotain EP 6205 • Plantasens Olive Squalane • HerbEx Korean Ginseng • MultiEx HumiD-Max Plus • Allantoin Premium • Nipaguard DMDMH Plus • Aristoflex Velvet

"By creating solid or concentrated formulations, brands have the choice of using more sustainable packaging options " Hygiene beauty speaks to the rapid shift in consumer behaviour which has seen the consumption of hand sanitisers skyrocket. With the heightened importance and increasing sales of hand cleansing products, there has been impressive innovation in the domain of hand cleansing. Consumer demand is shifting towards products that adhere to a more luxurious and advanced user experience, with reduced tolerance for side effects such as dryness.

Clariant’s on-the-go moisturising cleanser SanitiZ ‘n’ Care answers these aforementioned needs. A luxurious, non-greasy cream gel formula cleanser, this formulation is carefully crafted to combine emollients and ethanol. It ensures that skin is consistently left moisturised and thoroughly cleansed thanks to the rheology modifier, Hostacerin MCP, which thickens ethanol-based sanitisers. In addition to the rheology modifier, the key ingredients in the moisturising cleanser are: • Waterin Plus • Plantasens Olive LD • Plantasens Carefeel Light.

BEAUTY UNWRAPPED The packaging of cosmetics and personal care products is under increasing scrutiny, with consumers around the world placing the responsibility of packaging choices on brands.

By eliminating water content and creating solid or concentrated formulations, brands have the choice of using more sustainable packaging options such as cardboard or cork. As concentrates, solid products provide more use per unit volume of product, thereby reducing packaging demands. Solid concentrates and responsible packaging are also a chance for brands to demonstrate their environmental values.

Clariant has responded to this demand with a solid-format shampoo cube – the Hair Necessities Bar – and a Nourishing Bath Melt, which is a solid-format body wash, paving the way for diversity in solid products.

Both solid formats are enabled through use of select functionals and allow for packaging in a range of non-plastic materials.

Bridging self-care and skin care, the Nourishing Bath Melt dissolves effortlessly in warm water, providing moisturising, skin renewing and gentle cleansing benefits. As a solid product, it can be packaged non-plastic materials. Key aspects of the bath melt include:

• two-in-one cleanser and moisturiser • hydrating • gentle • skin smoothing and renewing • plastic and microplastic free • select natural wax and butter providing solid format The bath melt is formulated with these key ingredients: • Plantasens Cocoa Butter • Glucotain Sense • Plantasens Emulsifier SFO • Nipaguard SCE • Buriti Oil. The Hair Necessities Bar is formulated with the right combination of surfactants to ensure a rich, creamy foam and gentle cleansing, leaving hair clean and soft. The key aspects of the shampoo bar include: • cleansing • high foaming, lathering • gentle • plastic and microplastic free • select functionals to enable the solid format • formulated with a natural, COSMOSapproved preservative.

Its key ingredients are: • Hostapon SCI 85 P • Glucotain Plus • Glucotain Care • Beraclay Old Rose. •

Discover more BeautyForward No. 5 trends at

www.clariant.com/beautyforward.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JUNE 2021

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PACKAGING: ANTI-COUNTERFEITING

Systems to help you meet global traceability requirements Pharmaceutical production and packaging processes are continuously revised to ensure the best possible practices are maintained. Although these controls are in operation at different levels throughout the world, the goal remains the same – to deter counterfeiting and protect the end-user or patient.

M

edicinal products must conform to regional and international practices such as product and packaging inspection. They also need to be identifiable from the point of production to the point of dispensing. These are only the basic global requirements. By implementing more advanced controls in the form of inspection, track and trace, and smart data management, manufacturers are preparing for international compliance and therefore can anticipate production growth.

In Europe alone, around $70 billion in revenue is lost annually and one in 10 pharmaceutical drugs or medicines sold in developing countries are either fake or sub-standard. Packaging and product controls have been challenged due to the level of production processes. Although global regulatory compliance is in force to protect end users from falsified medicines entering the supply chain, counterfeiters are continuously advancing their methods to sustain production. Not only is this illegal, counterfeit products can also be life threatening if administered.

SYSTEMS TO ENSURE SAFE PRODUCTS The inspection systems from TracePack have been designed to operate with highvolume product influx to ensure that every single saleable unit has been thoroughly checked, approved and released into the supply chain in an immaculate, safe

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A diagram of the various elements of pharmaceutical product packaging inspection

state. The systems also ensure serialisation and aggregation for the complete control of your supply chain, helping to fight counterfeiting and guarantee higher product traceability.

The company’s wide selection of fully customisable inspection solutions for pharma can guarantee the consistent quality of your product. Its accurate detection technologies

A tamper seal inspection system

Did you know?

Your traceability practices produce a huge amount of data that can be utilised in a smart way. Take advantage of this disposable data and leverage your investments with smart data management solutions from TracePack, to ensure the best possible practices for future production. optimise efficiency by ensuring genuine reliability of all packaging and production processes, for guaranteed end-user safety within the pharmaceutical industry.

Expiring patents, low price generics, high R&D costs and narrowing margins make improved process efficiency and profitability through Overall Equipment Effectiveness (OEE) improvements increasingly important in pharma manufacturing. The vision and inspection products from TracePack help with these three traditional OEE drivers: 1. material handling efficiency and flexibility 2. product quality and yield 3. package safety and integrity.

PACKAGING: ANTI-COUNTERFEITING

BRAND PROTECTION AND COMPLIANCE As you prepare for compliance with global traceability requirements and transition from batch to item level serialisation, it is important to keep in mind that compliance requires much more than simply reading a code on a label or part.

This system ensures product security by detecting errors on labelling

"Keep in mind that compliance requires much more than simply reading a code on a label or part" For mass serialisation to support traceability, it is first essential to verify code quality and validate that all the encoded data is accurate and correctly formatted.

In-Sight Track & Trace works with networked In-Sight vision systems to create a complete identification and data verification solution for serialised labels on pharmaceutical packaging.

TracePack offers the widest range of vision and identification products available from a single source to provide you with a solution for every application and budget – for blisters, cartons, trays, aluminium foils, leaflets, layouts and packaging artworks as well as for foreign check detection. The vision systems for pharmaceuticals guarantee and monitor

the quality of single product units (pills, capsules, vials and ampoules) as well oversee complete inspection control of the finished packed product (bottles, cartons and tubes), by guaranteeing rejection of all non-conforming parts. • TracePack – www.tracepack.co.za

A Division of MITAS Corporation (Pty) Ltd

Anticounterfeiting Protection in the Pharmaceutical Industry 1 in 10 drugs sold in developing countries are fake or sub-standard.

Our Inspection Systems have been designed to operate with high volume product influx to ensure that every single saleable unit has been thoroughly checked, approved, and released into the supply chain in a safe state. +27 10 020 7221

www.tracepack.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JUNE 2021

45

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Coschem explores developments in ethnic skin care On 5 and 6 May, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists hosted its third successful virtual seminar for 2021, focusing on ethnic skin care.

A

nele Ntuli, a cosmetic scientist at Croda’s Centre of Excellence, opened the seminar. Ntuli reviewed a scientifically balanced moisturisation complex that forms an intelligent structure on the skin and delivers up to 72 hours of long-lasting skin moisturisation. The lipophilic complex optimises skin moisturisation via its dual mechanism of action and adapts to the surrounding environment.

It improves hydration by regulating water loss from the skin at different temperatures and humidity levels. Both instrumental and consumer perceivable tests were conducted on ethnic skin and scalp, proving the complex provides an excellent sensory enhancement and skin softness.

Frederic Serres of Givaudan, France reviewed Mangifera Indica (Mango) Leaf Extract by Givaudan Active Beauty which tackles oily skin issues and outperforms retinoic acid. Obtained by green extraction of responsibly sourced mango leaves from Burkina Faso, this natural active has shown its ability to activate specific receptors of the gene pathway normally regulated by retinoic acid. Double-blind clinical tests versus a placebo, performed on different skin ethnicities (African, Asian and Caucasian), showed the capability of the extract to regulate sebum production by half and improve the sebum quality.

The evaluation was done on the skin and scalp, opening up several innovative

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applications in skin care and hair care.

Mangifera Indica (Mango) Leaf Extract is a universal, genderless ingredient that is suitable for all age groups and skin tones.

Acne vulgaris is considered to be the eight most prevalent disease worldwide. Although it is not lifethreatening, it can have severe physical and psychological implications on the patients quality of life. People with ethnic skin types are mostly affected by acne vulgaris, scarring and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation related to the skin disease.

Quorum sensing between acnecausing bacteria plays a central role in inflammation and antibiotic resistance, which are pathogenic factors associated

all the pathogenic factors associated with the disease, resulting in longer treatment times.

Isa Lambrechts of the University of Pretoria advised that they have identified an indigenous South African Plectranthus species that targets all the pathogenic factors associated with acne vulgaris. The plant has been proven in vivo to target different types of acne vulgaris in ethnic skin faster than current treatments on the market.

with the disease. Current research on South African plants does not target

factor, yet factors such as diet, climate and the overall health of a person are at least as decisive. Culture also plays an important role. The culture a person lives in often defines how people are supposed to look and what is deemed attractive or unattractive.

Skin care is used by consumers to provide or at least give support to skin health. It gives the consumer a sense of control. Active ingredients can play an important role in this context.

Modern active ingredients interfere with biological processes in the skin which might be out of balance or disturbed.

Many active ingredients are adaptive as they are able to have a larger positive influence when the skin problem is

"SMU is working with students to develop a scale of ethnic skin colour which will have more types in the scale"

DEFINING SKIN TYPES AND CLINICAL TESTS Harald van der Hoeven of CLR Berlin, Germany, explained that skin is defined by many factors. Ethnicity is one such a

ASSOCIATION NEWS

bigger. This is an important attribute for cosmetic scientists, as this helps in developing effective products for different skin types. This might be defined by ethnicity, but also by any of the other specific characteristics skin might have.

Marlize Lategan of SMU gave a presentation on clinical assessments of various cosmetic products and mentioned that any claim made on packaging and labelling which is not scientifically substantiated is an offence.

SPF testing is crucial to provide protection to consumers as we all know the risk of sunburn and premature ageing. This is the reason why we have to determine the UV protection factor in a reliable manner to ensure that we deliver safe and efficient sun care products to consumers. Colorimetry tests can be performed to determine the effects of different pigments on the colour of the skin. Of particular importance in human skin is the quantity of melanin it contains.

Looking at TEWL, it can be explained as the loss of water that passes from the inside of the body through the epidermis to the surrounding atmosphere. If the skin barrier is damaged, the amount of water emitted from the body or TEWL is increased.

As there is no control over this loss of water, TEWL can be interpreted as a reflection of the skin barrier’s functionality. When the skin has been treated by cosmetic products, the skin’s secretion processes are hindered to a greater or lesser extent. Lategan also explained that corneometry is a technology that is used to measure the hydration of the outer layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum), whilst sebumetry is a method used for quantifying the fat content of the skin.

Cutometry is a test which is performed to allow for elasticity measurement of the skin.

FORMULATING FOR AND TESTING ON ETHNIC SKIN There is a plethora of skin care products in Africa. Consumers fluctuate between choosing skin lighteners that have the fastest efficacy, brand loyalty and price.

To sell cosmetic actives to skin lightening manufacturers in Africa, one has to know how to formulate these actives in combination with hydroquinone.

There has been a shift in the industry where traditionally high-dosed hydroquinone products are making way for lower-dosed products, working in combination with other skin lightening actives, plus anti-inflammatories. In her presentation, Beverley Gardner of Skyem mentioned that there is a gap in the market for potent deo actives, sunscreen filters and anti-inflammatory cosmetic ingredients targeting damaged skin.

Looking at clinical skin studies of Southern African individuals from different ethnic groups, Lee Ann Raaff of SMU said the Fitzpatrick scale remains a recognised tool for dermatological research into human skin pigmentation, yet it is highly Euro-centric. The scale defines olive skins as those with a skin type 4, yet the person has a light African complexion. This means there are only two African skin types and four Caucasian skin types defined by the scale. The Fitzpatrick Scale needs to incorporate additional skin colour

types for the ethnic market. In order to grow this research in skin colour variation, Raaff highlighted that SMU is working with students to develop a scale of ethnic skin colour which will have more types in the scale and therefore more relevance.

Raaff also mentioned that it is very important to address the needs of all skin types and colours and therefore manufacturers must look at solutions to create tailored made products to satisfy specific needs. It is also important to test on target populations in their environment.

MORE ON SKIN AND SCALP CARE Sapphirah Phala of BASF South Africa presented an active for mattifying dark skin. This product is based on an extract of Bixa orellana seeds. Bixa orellana shrubs originate from the region located between northern South America and Mexico.

The active from BASF addresses the general global concern of oily and combination skin of all ethnicities. The product has triple efficacy – reducing shininess, tightening pores and reducing imperfections. Results of tests done at 0.25% of the active ingredient showed a visibly clearer and healthier skin after four weeks of treatment.

Your scalp is like the soil of your farm – poor soil will directly affect the well-being of your plants growing in it. The same applies in hair care, as anything that would cause scalp inflammation can be harmful to the existence and well-being of your hair.

“We believe our Ladine Scalp Treatment is one of the best solutions in ethnic hair care to take care of the scalp. It is always important to pay attention to your scalp,” explained Lutendo Magina of Henkel South Africa.

Valéria Câmara of Chemyunion, Brazil closed the virtual seminar on day two with a presentation focused on needs and solutions for a perfect ethnic skin. Câmara emphasised that by better understanding the needs of ethnic skin, it is possible to provide solutions to restore glow, hydration and skin balance.

Through a skin care routine using products formulated with carefully chosen actives, any skin can be gorgeous! •

Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JUNE 2021

47

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Forestry sector releases global sustainability report The ICFPA has released its biennial Sustainability Progress Report, which demonstrates progress in seven key areas of sustainability, including sustainable forest management, renewable energy, greenhouse gas and sulphur dioxide emissions, water use, health and safety, and recycling. The 2021 report also highlights the global response of forest products sector to the COVID-19 pandemic.

T

he 2021 International Council of Forest and Paper Associations (ICFPA) Sustainability Progress Report shows progress on nearly all of the sector’s performance indicators, using the most recent data available (from

decreased 21% from the 2004/2005 baseline year.

The energy share of biomass and other renewable fuels increased to 64.9%, a 12% increase since 2004/2005.

Sulphur dioxide emission intensity from

2018 to 2019).

“In the face of the biggest health and economic crisis of our lifetimes, we are reminded that the global forestry sector has the potential to address some of our most urgent social, environmental and economic challenges,” notes ICFPA president Derek Nighbor, who is also president and CEO of the Forest Products Association of Canada. “Forestry workers and forest products are in the unique position to drive our move to a lowercarbon world through sustainable forest management, advancing the forest bioeconomy and recovering more paper and paper-based packaging for recycling.”

on-site combustion sources decreased 77% from the 2004/2005 baseline year and 38% from the previous report. Water use intensity decreased 12.5% from the baseline year.

Investment in health and safety interventions yielded a 30% reduction in the global recordable incident rate from the 2006/2007 baseline with the number of recordable incidents falling to 2.88 per 100 employees annually.

In 2019, 59.1% of paper and paperboard consumed globally was used by mills to make new products, marking a 12.6% increase in the global recycling rate since the year 2000.

“As a sector, both globally and locally, we continue to make a positive impact and meaningful progress in areas of sustainability, society and the economy, providing citizens with a renewable resource in the form of sustainably produced wood, cellulose and paper products,” comments Jane Molony, executive director of Paper Manufacturers Association of South Africa (PAMSA) and member of the ICFPA steering committee. “Wood in its various forms not only meets essential daily needs, but also provides a raw material for conventional and innovative alternatives for sustainable packaging.”

KEY PROGRESS INDICATORS The ICFPA Sustainability Progress Report reflects major progress achieved in previous years. While the trend for some indicators has plateaued, the overall trend is positive a reflection that the industry continues to improve in key sustainability areas.

In 2019, 52.6% of procured wood fibre came from third-party certified sustainably-managed forests, a 41% increase from the 2000 baseline year.

Greenhouse gas emission intensity

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Did you know?

ICFPA serves as a forum of global dialogue, coordination and co-operation.

Currently, the ICFPA represents 18 pulp, paper, wood and fibre-based associations, including the PAMSA. PAMSA and the 17 other associations encompass 28 countries and many of the top pulp, paper and wood producers around the world are their members.

MAKING A DIFFERENCE IN SA The 2021 ICFPA Sustainability Progress Report also includes various case studies from around the world of how ICFPA member associations have helped vulnerable communities during the pandemic.

The plight of many impoverished South Africans was exacerbated by COVID-19.

Among those affected were informal recycling collectors who were unable to trade during the hard lockdown.

The packaging sector joined hands to provide food vouchers to some 6 000 collectors. A combined value of R1.9 million in vouchers was delivered to waste collectors’ mobile phone numbers.

Fibre Circle donated R1.2 million toward the project.

In July 2020, in commemoration of Mandela Day, Fibre Circle, the producer responsibility organisation for the paper and paper packaging sector, PAMSA and its recycling arm RecyclePaperZA distributed care packs to 1 500 recycling collectors. Each care pack contained a simple but innovative handwashing unit, soap, cloth masks, food vouchers, children’s activity packs and blankets. •

To view or download the 2021 ICFPA Sustainability Progress Report, please visit https://bit.ly/3h0XIzW.

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Essential oils in SA – an industry budding with opportunity Formed by the farming community, SAEOPA has become the backbone of the South African essential and vegetable oils industry. The industry has been identified as one of priority for economic development, based on its comparative advantage of seasonable supply, export potential, inclusiveness and environmentally sustainable characteristics.

T

he global demand for products from the natural ingredients sector, which includes essential and vegetable oils, continues to reflect a strong upward trend, having increased by an average of 15% from 2018 to 2019.

South Africa, with its rich diversity of flora and entrepreneurial farmers, is extremely well

"SAEOPA’s producers are extremely quality conscious"

positioned to exploit this opportunity.

Latest estimates suggest that the global production of essential oils is more than 150 000t. The global market for essential oils is valued at $6.5bn and projected to rise at a CAGR of 8.4% to 11.3% to $15.8bn by 2024/5.

Europe dominated the essential oils market with a share of 43.65% in 2019. This is attributable to easy feedstock availability and the presence of major industry players in the region.

cultivation areas cover 600 000ha and one million farms located worldwide are producers of essential oil-bearing plants.

The main indigenous crops cultivated in South Africa for steam distilled essential oils are buchu, geranium, lippia, eriocephalus, artemisia, helichrysum, leonotis and coleonema, while marula, baobab, Kalahari melon, Ximenia, trichelia and manketti/mongongo are the indigenous crops cultivated for pressed/vegetable oils. There are also a wide variety of exotic crops cultivated locally for essential oils and pressed/vegetable oils.

SAEOPA was established with the purpose of promoting essential oils and the production, processing and export of natural plant products, including essential oils. The association represents the interests of its members and the industry. SAEOPA’s producers are extremely quality conscious – they have GC/MS test data on all their essential oils as well as analysis on all seed oils. There are currently 15 local producers exporting their essential oils and pressed/vegetable oils to the UK, USA, Australia and the EU. The association also assists with information regarding crop selection, cultivation, harvesting and processing.

Market- and price-related issues are shared among members and international correspondents, as well as research findings and success stories while

KNOWLEDGE SHARING AND QUALITY FOCUSED Local production estimates for 2020, according to the South African Essential Oil Producers’ Association (SAEOPA), are around 370 000kg. Globally, essential oil

Did you know?

SAEOPA is supported by the SECO-funded, UNIDO-implemented Global Quality and Standards Programme – South Africa project (GQSP-SA), to develop national standards for selected essential and vegetable oils. Earlier this year, the GQSPSA and SAEOPA submitted standards to SABS for rose geranium and baobab. Both are now available for public review.

A VOICE FOR THE SOUTH AFRICAN ESSENTIAL AND VEGETABLE OILS INDUSTRY SAEOPA was established in 2000 as a non-profit organisation with the following objectives: • to promote the production, processing and export of essential oils and natural plant products • to represent and promote the interests of its members and the industry • to collect, collate and disseminate salient information • to act as a unified and independent mouthpiece of the industry • to facilitate the coordination of industry activities • to promote research to expand the national and regional industry • to facilitate the sustainability of members and to increase their competitiveness, both nationally and regionally • to empower members through training, workshops, conferences and trade missions The following membership categories are accommodated within SAEOPA: • ordinary members (small, medium and large producers) • associate members (corporates and individuals) • international members • researcher members (individuals) • sponsor members • student members • honorary life members.

focusing on the expansion of the industry.

Value-adding services as well as agroprocessing and skills development from part of the mission and actions of the association. • SAEOPA – www.saeopa.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA////APRIL JUNE 2021

49

Tea

time Take a breather

>>>

SUDOKU

To advertise in

contact

Anita Raath

Carla Melless

Sales executive

Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

+27 (0)83 260 6060

www.pharmacos.co.za

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

ADVERTISERS' INDEX 06 Agencies SA........................................ 7........www.o6southafrica.com

Mitas Corporation ...............................45........www.tracepack.co.za

BASF Holdings South Africa ............35........www.basf.grow-africa.com

Moco Packaging ............................... OBC........www.mocopack.co.za

BEEG IDEA Consulting ......................... 8........www.beegidea.co.za

Natchem..................................................37........www.natchem.co.za

CJP Chemicals .......................................33........www.cjpchemicals.co.za

Nautilus Chemicals .............................28........info@nautiluschemicals.co.za

Evonik Africa..........................................40........www.evonik.com/personal-care

Oryx Oil South Africa...........................15........www.oryxenergies.com

Glatt GmbH.............................................25........www.glatt.com

Puregas.................................................OFC........www.puregas.co.za

Hersol Manufacturing Lab ...............23........www.hersol.co.za

Rettenmaier South Africa (JRS)......27........www.jrs.de

IMCD SA ..................................................19........www.imcdgroup.com

Sensetek .................................................39........www.sensetek.co.za

ISW Shrink...............................................16........www.iswshrink.co.za

Sikelela Steel ........................................IFC........www.sikelelasteel.co.za

Marsing & Co Africa.............................21........www.marsing-sa.com

Vantage Specialty Chemicals .......... 41........www.vantagegrp.com

Millchem..................................................17........www.millchem.co.za

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ONLINE

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ website will find information on membership, educational programmes (specific details pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the personal care industry.

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

www.coschem.co.za

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers, plastic containers,

analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,

closures and packaging accessories.

Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Phone: +27 (0) 11 661 7914 Cell: +27 (0) 81 399 9737 E-mail: peter.moopeloa@bureauveritas.com

BOTANICHEM

FORMPAK For over 50 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical,

BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the

food and dairy industries.

appropriate ingredient, at the right price.

Tel: +27 (0) 11 828 8870/1/2 Fax: +27 (0) 11 828 8880

www.botanichem.co.za

email: haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations.

If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications.

Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK