Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review May 2020

Page 44

ANTI-AGEING

Skin care trends to watch Queen Cleopatra famously bathed in sour donkey milk to improve the appearance of her skin. Throughout the ages, cosmetics businesses have used new ingredients and methods to improve their products and stay on top of trends. While sour milk may be out of fashion, other trends are on the rise. Ramya Sriram, digital content manager at Kolabtree, explores some of the biggest trends in skin care.

C

onsumer interest in premium

to help keep their skin calm

brands is propelling an

― research indicates

increase in the size of the

that CBD’s soothing

global skin care market,

properties can help

which is projected to increase by

diminish breakouts

$45bn by 2023. To remain competitive,

and reduce redness.

businesses should pay attention to the

Another reason for

latest trends and adapt their product

its popularity is its

ranges accordingly.

antioxidant properties, linked with reducing

DID YOU KNOW?

ingredients such as vitamin C are unstable and may change if exposed to air.

Cosmetics businesses need a good understanding of the regulatory landscape when launching a CBD-infused product. For example, CBD products must have a tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) level of less than 0.3% to be sold in the US. You will also need a good understanding of CBD extraction and how to formulate it into your product.

Cannabidiol

signs of ageing skin, such as

With preliminary studies looking at the

wrinkles.

The capsules can be made from many materials, such as sugars or synthetic polymers. Cosmetics companies

are developing new

encapsulation methods, such as the addition of amino acid-based markers that aid attachment, to help

benefits of cannabidiol (CBD) oil in treating conditions like anxiety, pain and

Encapsulation

the active ingredient reach the correct

insomnia, and even assisting with acne

Another skin care trend is micro-

part of the skin. Encapsulation can be

and wrinkles, this active ingredient has

encapsulation, which involves

a complex chemical process, so to tap

gained widespread exposure. CBD is

formulating ingredients into tiny

into this trend, businesses will require

a naturally occurring plant compound

capsules to make sure that the

the skills of a formulation chemist, either

derived from the cannabis plant, which

encased ingredient is protected and

in-house or freelance.

is non-psychoactive and legal to buy.

delivered properly into the skin.

CBD is more richly concentrated in

The skin acts as a physical

Dry versions

cannabidiol than hemp seed oil, which

barrier and can prevent ingredients

While most beauty products have historically

only contains trace amounts.

such as antioxidants and vitamins

taken the form of a cream, lotion or solid,

from being absorbed. The active

brands are now creating dry, just-add-water

properties, which have helped fuel its

ingredient must have a small enough

versions of their formulas, which do not

popularity in the skin care market. For

molecular structure to cross the skin

require preservatives or emulsifiers to the

example, people with acne may use it

barrier effectively. In addition, some

extent of water-based formulations.

CBD oil has anti-inflammatory

44

| MAY 2020 | P C Review


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