Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review May 2021

MAY 2021

Volume 48 | Number 5

48

years www.pharmacos.co.za

ANTI-AGEING/ WELL-AGEING

Celebrate beauty on your own terms!

COVID-19 VACCINE MANUFACTURING A look at cold storage & distribution

KAS AFRICA

Contract manufacturer secures $10m investment

Ageing rebranded IT’S ALL ABOUT AGEING WELL

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Volume 48 | Number 5 www.pharmacos.co.za

MAY 2021

Contents 34

14

40

6 News BASF receives three BSB innovation awards Bespoke solutions from Inzpire Brand Health

CLR Berlin explores the changing perceptions on ageing Santalwood biofunctional brings well-ageing benefits to skin care

$10m investment to catapult KAS Africa’s growth

Slow the ageing process with Lapagyl botanical ingredient

36 End of Line Packaging

Target senescence with Celyscence from Clariant Active Ingredients

Robopac innovates with eco-friendly stretchwrapping technology

What’s new on our radar

Get radiant and glowing skin with Borēaline Aurora

38 Pharma Focus

11 Events

John Knowlton questions the future of anti-ageing

New managing director for Mibelle Biochemistry

9 Product News

Register to attend Achema Pulse

12 Industry Talk Janusz Luterek clears the haze on cannabis

14 Anti-ageing/ Well-ageing

EleVastin promotes elasticity to fight sagging in skin Goji berry extract builds a foundation for healthylooking skin

Symrise empowers midlife women to age healthily

33 Frugal Innovations

Natural peptide from Tri-K to firm the neck and face

Improve powder flow for sachet formulations with galenIQ 721

Logmore and Sofrigam collaborate to increase vaccine transportation safety

AGEING REBRANDED

PC_Review_Cover.indd 1

Evonik delivers first lipids to BioNTech in record time New integrated solutions from Telstar

14

On the cover

Automated inspection solutions to accelerate vaccine delivery

Highlights from Coschem’s virtual seminar on the cosmetic landscape post COVID-19

Metall+Plastic launches a smart isolator for aseptic processes

Introducing Cryo-Vacc, Renergen’s new cold storage solution

Sederma’s Feminage redefines femininity in menopausal women

48 Association News

34 Company Focus

15.04.21 14:02

It’s all about ageing well

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2021

3

FROM THE EDITOR

The team

Celebrate beauty on your own terms!

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti SUB-EDITOR: Katrien Smit CONTRIBUTORS: Elena Cañadas, Júlia Comas, Raquel Delgado, John Knowlton, Janusz Luterek, Harald van der Hoeven, Sylesh Venkataraman

ADVERTISING

F

or years, women have been competing to stay young. As a result, the antiageing category has been the biggest driver of the skin care industry for decades.

Yet this is now changing. In favour of removing the shame from growing old, the beauty industry is fast adopting a more holistic approach to skin care that is centred on well-ageing or pro-ageing.

The movement has become global with key developments highlighting just how important this change is to consumers and the industry alike. In 2017 Allure Magazine announced it would be phasing out use of the word ‘anti-ageing’ in all editorial content. At the beginning of last year, L’Oréal launched the Age Perfect range of skin care and makeup developed specifically for women over the age of 45, while data published by the Glimmer Insights Community showed that 37% of women within this community of influencers wanted to see “the end of the term anti-ageing”.

While the terminology and concept may take some time to evolve locally, there is no doubt that the global cosmetics industry is gradually moving away from the era of anti-ageing. To help local brands and manufacturers keep up with the international movement, the bumper anti-ageing/well-ageing feature in this edition of P&C Review explores a range of holistic solutions for skin care products that give consumers the freedom to celebrate beauty on their own terms. Rather than fighting the signs of ageing, Symrise, Vantage, Savannah and AECI Speciality Chemicals among many other ingredient suppliers now offer a wide variety of

active ingredients that are pro-longevity and meet the needs of menopausal women and mature skin and hair. Turn to page 14 to find out more.

On page 34, we’re excited to bring you our first story on KAS Africa, the Midrand-based contract manufacturer that recently secured a $10m investment to catapult its growth over the next few years. The business was launched in 2019 after KAS Africa acquired the assets of Le-Sel Research and took over employees from the previous company.

It is now a majority black woman-owned company which is doing amazing things to empower female entrepreneurs to become successful beauty entrepreneurs.

In the next few years, it is predicted the global demand for vaccines will be around 15bn doses. Experts say traditional cold chain infrastructure cannot sustain both the existing need for temperature-controlled logistics and the surge caused by the requirement for COVID-19 vaccines. In line with these urgent developments in the market, this month’s pharma focus on page 38 is centred on innovation in the area of vaccine manufacturing and distribution.

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

P C Review is the official journal of:

CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

MAY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

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INTERNATIONAL SALES

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

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Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

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4

EDITORIAL

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John Knowlton

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - T he Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

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NEWS

Iberchem reinforces its naturals portfolio with Parfex acquisition Based in Grasse, France, Parfex will play an important role in Iberchem’s plan to increase its offering of sustainable and natural certified fragrances while hosting a new creative centre for the group’s fine fragrance activities. In addition, the acquisition will enhance Iberchem’s presence in the European market.

Thanks to Parfex’s prime location, it will increase Iberchem’s portfolio of naturally sourced ingredients targeted at premium markets. This acquisition of Parfex is the company’s first since joining Croda in November 2020.

Established in Grasse in 1985 and now employing 75 people, Parfex specialises in the creation of fragrances for personal care and fine perfumery markets. The company has maintained steady growth over the past decade thanks to its creativity, the reliability of its highquality operations and the dynamism of its team. It now sells its fragrances in more than 50 countries worldwide.

Parfex will retain its independent identity within the Iberchem Group, preserving its current structure.

However, it will benefit from both Croda and Iberchem’s technical expertise, financial support and international sales network to meet new growth opportunities.

Steve Foots, Croda CEO, says: “We believe that transitioning to more natural raw materials is a potential differentiator in the fragrance market. Parfex will play an important role in Iberchem’s plans to increase its sustainable fragrance offerings and further enhances our position in the creation of higher-value fine fragrances.”

Ramón Fernández, CEO of Iberchem Group, adds: “This acquisition is a cornerstone in the growth plan of the company. With its history and abundance of natural raw materials, Grasse is a world-renowned French town that is especially relevant for any fragrance house. Parfex will further enhance our portfolio of sustainable and natural fragrances, serving our ambition to rank among the leaders of this industry.”

Kurt Tschopp, general manager of Parfex, comments, “With great satisfaction, we will become part of Croda and a premium brand of their dynamic fragrance division, Iberchem. I am enthusiastic about this deal which offers new horizons to our company and assures its future.”

There are numerous synergies between Iberchem, Croda and Parfex which will accelerate the growth of all three entities

6

MAY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Emollient Jockey improves the product design experience as a result of faster prototyping and brand customisation

BASF receives three BSB innovation awards BASF’s Care Creations has

of sustainable emollients with an

received first prize in three 2021

innovative digital too – Emollient

BSB Innovation Award categories.

Jockey transparently links emollient

Emollient Jockey, a digital tool that

mixes (type and dosage) with

provides comprehensive data on

physicochemical and sensorial

an emollient’s characteristics and

properties, improving the product

performance, achieved first place

design experience for customers

in the Concepts category.

thanks to digital convenience, faster

Lamesoft Balance, a biodegradable product for the

prototyping and brand customisation.

Acting as a natural structure

stabilisation of ingredients in skin

enhancer in surfactant-based

and hair cleansing formulations,

systems, Lamesoft Balance is used

achieved first place in the

to stabilise wax-based opacifiers

Functionals and Recipients sub-

in rinse-off applications – even

category of Cosmetics.

in low-viscosity formulations.

The active ingredient PeptAIde

Performance and sensory tests

4.0, a plant-based product derived

have shown that Lamesoft Balance

from rice proteins, was awarded

enhances foam properties in body

first place in the Pigmentation,

wash formulations and provides a

Brightness, Silent Inflammation

pleasant skin feeling. In shampoo

section of the Actives sub-category.

formulations containing cationic

“I am very proud that to date,

conditioning agents, it has been

we have been honoured by BSB

proven to significantly boost the

19 times for our solutions. This

hair conditioning effect.

recognition motivates us even

PeptAIde 4.0, a new active

more to continue to support

ingredient from BASF, offers a

our customers in developing

safe and nature-based remedy

high-performing, state-of-the-

for hair and skin damage caused

art and above all sustainable

by silent inflammation. To develop

cosmetic products – be it

this plant-based product, BASF

with innovative ingredients or

researchers used the power of

new, complementary digital

artificial intelligence. Numerous

technologies that facilitate

peptides – short chains of

efficient product development

amino-acids linked by peptide

and effective product design,”

bonds – were screened for their

says Christian Somigliana, market

ability to help prevent the release

development personal care Europe.

of inflammatory mediators

Increasing personalisation

such as TNFα. With the help of a

continues to drive growth in the

controlled enzymatic hydrolysis

beauty industry. Manufacturers

process, these peptides were then

maintain diverse brands to meet

unlocked from organic rice proteins

varying consumer needs, which

(Oryza sativa). PeptAlde 4.0 is

requires considerable resources

scientifically proven to prevent

and time. As a market leader in

dry skin, discomfort and a loss of

emollients, BASF’s Care Creations

firmness, while soothing sensitive

has complemented its portfolio

scalps that are prone to dandruff.

NEWS

Take your brand to market the healthy way!

Inzpire Brand Health is made up

consumer which will drive consumption

Chris Mandos seasoned experience brings

of a group of practical, savvy and

and market share. If you have a burning

to the table advertising and communications,

experienced individuals in taking

brand problem which you need assistance

brand building and new product promotions

brands to market. The company has

with, we work with you from concept

in health and associated industries across all

the know how to create success of

through implementation in the market.

the major media channels. He takes a product

the full value chain process, from

This activity encompasses brand

to market from online marketing right through

concept to commercialising brands in

logo development, packaging website

to point of sale. Value creation of existing

the marketplace and the ongoing value

development, social media, SEO, above the

products is an addition to his skillset.

creation of brands.

line media, below the line media selection

Company founders Niel Dass and

The company also offers bespoke brand

and placement,” explains Dass, who has

solutions brought about by Inzpire’s unique

Wayne Robinson have established

been an integral part of major local and

B.E.E.G IDEA insight process, which creates

experience and relations in the

multinational companies in this space.

a unique BEEG idea concept that can be

healthcare industry. Inzpire is joined by

In addition, Dass’ time with

rolled out on all advertising platforms and

Chris Mandos, a seasoned advertising

entrepreneurs in the field has helped them

ideated in a proposition uniquely rolled out

guru whose expertise spans different

through the pains of the growth phase of

to stakeholders i.e. trader/buyer, shopper

markets such as health, hair care,

their brands. He has amassed experience

and consumer.

FMCG and other.

in advertising strategy, communications

“We forge brands that have a high

Give Inzpire Brand Health a call on

and diagnostics right through to

087 821 7414 or send the team an email to

impact in the marketplace and offer

relationship building in FMCG, pharma and

info@inzpire.co.za. You can also check out

you a unique proposition for your

other industries.

the company’s website: www.inzpire.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2021

7

NEWS

Azelis wins Coup de Coeur award at Cosmetagora 2021 Organised by the French Society of Cosmetology in Paris, this year saw the 13 th edition of the Cosmetagora formulation competition, which is open to all exhibitors who took part in the 2021 virtual show.

A jury of experts awards four prestigious prizes, divided into four levels of innovation: Gold, Silver, Bronze and the Coup de Coeur prize. The Azelis France personal care team scooped the Coup de Coeur prize this year for its innovative and sustainable formulation Time Dilution. This is a water-free, easy-to-use, natural-based cream cube that meets all the requirements of current market trends. This is the second win for the Azelis France personal care team, which won the Gold award in 2017 for the D-Tox Magnetic Mask formulation.

Consumers are constantly pushing for greener, more sustainable formulations that are easy to use yet still offer the skin care benefits they have

Mibelle Biochemistry appoints a new managing director 2021 is a special year for Mibelle

department, followed by the regulatory

Biochemistry. Not only has the company

and compliance department in 2007.

celebrated its 30th anniversary, but it has

Since 2011, Schürch has held the role of

also announced a new managing director.

vice business manager and completed her

On 1 May, after 30 years in his position, Fred Zülli handed over the

EMBA in 2013.

Schürch has been valuably contributing

reins of managing director of Mibelle

with her profound knowledge and

Biochemistry to Cornelia Schürch,

innovation skills to the business over

previously head of development

the paw few years. Furthermore, she

and compliance.

has acted as Zülli’s deputy with the

Zülli will take on a new role of

objective of gaining a comprehensive

business development director and will

understanding of all aspects of the

lead the research department and the

business over past few years. Schürch is

entire sales team. He will focus on the

now perfectly equipped to take over the

development of new active concepts

role as managing director.

to ensure Mibelle Biochemistry’s continuous growth in all areas.

The company thanks Zülli for his numerous valuable contributions over the last 30 years. He has built the business unit from scratch and led it to its established, significant position in the market.

Schürch joined Mibelle Biochemistry in 2002. She graduated as food engineer in 1998 from ETH Zurich. In 2002 she completed her PhD thesis in food microbiology, just before joining the Mibelle Biochemistry team as scientific assistant in product development. From 2003, she led the product development

Cornelia Schürch takes over as managing director of Mibelle Biochemistry

come to expect. The Time Dilution formulation is the perfect answer to these key market needs.

Developed at the personal care laboratory in La Défense, Paris, France by laboratory manager, Sophie Thirion, Time Dilution contains more than 98% natural-based ingredients and no water allowing the user to store the cubes in bulk. It also reduces the need for excessive packaging and the transportation of unnecessary water which in turn helps to reduce the carbon footprint of the product.

Thirion comments: “We observed for several years that trends influence consumption patterns, particularly in the personal care market, and we have seen this illustrated in particular by a strengthening of marketing claims on consumer products. Natural concepts are constantly evolving and going further to meet the changing requirements of consumers. These specific needs can be met by combining innovations in naturality and efficiency with respect for the environment and planet while creating a product that is a pleasure to use and has noticeable benefits for the consumer.”

8

MAY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Flat-pack solutions innovated for high-content alcohol wipes Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC) – a division of Barry-Wehmiller – has announced its industry-leading wet wipes folding machines, the Rx200 and Mako Clipper, are now available with highcontent alcohol, measuring as much as 70%.

Previously, PCMC wet wipes machines operated with less than 20% alcohol, producing disinfectant wipes for personal, home, industrial and automotive use.

However, the COVID-19 pandemic has created a spike in demand for sanitising wipes that contain at least 70% alcohol, which is the key component in killing or deactivating viruses. To help manufacturers meet the increased demand, PCMC redesigned its Rx200 and Mako Clipper to safely operate with the higher alcohol content. The new designs feature increased

air exchange for better ventilation and additional sensors to eliminate the risk of flash points and fires. The machines also include IDS 150/300 integrated dual stackers and a redesigned Mako saw to meet more stringent regulations and higher machine performance expectations.

“We are proud to offer new solutions to our customers which will ultimately put more sanitising wipes in homes and offices around the world,” says Laercio Catao, PCMC nonwovens sales director. “We made this possible by tapping into our extensive history of working with nonwovens and hazardous materials such as solvents in our flexo printing presses. The result is a machine we are confident produces highquality sanitising wet wipes while helping to keep operators safe.”

1. A revolution in eye makeup

Playgirl, a brand best known for beautifully scented body sprays, roll-ons and lotions, has announced a bold move into colour cosmetics with new eye and face palettes in 220 shades.

Playgirl Beauty brand manager, Tanita le Roux says that the products are luxurious, cruelty-free, world-class and affordable.

“We’re setting a trend in South Africa both with our range of colours and the innovative integration of glitter in our palettes,” she comments. The Playgirl Beauty glitter formula is said to be a revolution in eye palettes, offering a balance between a cream and a dry glitter. “The formulation allows for a soft and lightweight application with maximum impact. Each shade in the range has been tested on a range of different skin tones to ensure a high colour payoff and seamless blending of colours,” she adds. The full Playgirl Beauty range includes: All Eyez on Me eye makeup palettes; Glam After Dark creamy glitters; Sultry mix of shimmer and mattes; Naughty Neons featuring a selection of highly pigmented colours; In the Mood for Nude essentials palette; HypnotEyez palettes with soft pastels, striking brights and sultry darks; and the Just Glow with It face highlighters, bronzers and blushes. Playgirl Beauty products are available at selected Clicks stores and can be online on the Clicks website, at a recommended retail price ranging from R59.95 to R179.95.

On the Street New products on our radar 1

2. Happy Event trial yields positive results

Happy Event, a body care range formulated to reduce and prevent stretch marks, has created products trusted by women for over five decades. It recently invited a selection of South African women to take part in a 14-day trial with Happy Event products. Of the participants in the two-week trial, an overwhelming 82% saw a significant difference in the reduction of their stretch marks within two weeks of using the products.

As many as 97% stated that the Happy Event range of products had either met and/ or exceeded their expectations. As many

2

as 97% were keen to recommend the range to others, with 96% of participants committed to purchasing these products again in the future. A total of 97% said the Happy Event range is of a premium quality and make use of the finest ingredients, with a staggering 99% considering it absolute value for money.

Happy Event is a legacy brand with a rich heritage. For more than 50 years, its range of stretch mark reducing and preventing body care products have been supporting women throughout all of life’s events, during puberty in their teens, through their antenatal and postnatal stages of pregnancy and when they’ve experienced weight fluctuation.

3

3. Local celeb launches African skin care range

Media personality and businesswoman, Amanda du-Pont has developed a new skin care range – lelive – formulated with 95% natural ingredients. Pronounced leh-lee-veh, the range is vegan, cruelty-free, dermatologist-approved and designed to be inclusive of all skin types and genders.

All the ingredients in the lelive range are locally sourced while the products are sustainably packaged with recyclable aluminium. The products include: • Cleaner Colada coconut and pineapple African oil cleanser • Jelly Splash – a Rooibos and Aloe jelly cleanser • All Glow’d Up – a vitamin C, turmeric and HA brightening serum • SOS peach and aloe AHA/BHA exfoliator • Creme de la cream African mahogany everyday moisturiser • The du-Pont shea butter lush moisturiser • All the Shade marula tinted SPF 30 moisturiser.

The range can be purchased online at www.leliveafrica.com or via Superbalist. Individual product prices range from R259 to R329.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2021

9

What’s on in 2021

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MAY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

July in-cosmetics Korea 14 to 16 July (new dates) Seoul, Korea www.korea.in-cosmetics.com Bangkok Beauty Show 15 to 17 July (new dates) Bangkok, Thailand www.bangkokbeautyshow.com KZN Industrial Technology Expo 21 to 23 July Durban, South Africa www.kznindustrial.co.za

August Cosmoprof North America 29 to 31 August (new dates) Las Vegas, US www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

EVENTS

Achema Pulse to explore global process industry trends Digitalisation, hydrogen, resilient supply chains and faster R&D processes are some of the topics on the agenda of the global process industry. These topics will feature prominently on the programme of Achema Pulse – a virtual event offering a hub for participants via an interactive platform and in virtual conference halls.

A

chema Pulse takes place on 15 and 16 June. The conference programme will cover the importance of digitalisation, flexibility and supply chain resilience, how important it is to quickly set up or adapt production lines, and data security as a topic of critical relevance to business.

Thought leaders, practitioners and industry experts will feature in lectures and discussions, taking a close look at the following: • AI in the process industry – what role does AI play for process and product development? Robert Feldmann of Microsoft will discuss this with industry experts in a highlight session. The use of AI in biotechnology, where the latest breakthroughs in the calculation of protein structures could mean a paradigm shift for drug development and bio-catalysis, is also part of the agenda.

• Hydrogen as a gamechanger – are we entering the hydrogen economy? How can the necessary electrolysis capacity be built up, and how does hydrogen interact with other technologies and other industries? Among others, Lijs Groenendaal of Shell and Ronnie Belmans of the Catholic University of Leuven, will share their views.

• Faster, bigger and more global vaccine development: The establishment of largescale vaccine production has shown what is possible when research, development and production are accelerated. Which experiences can be transferred? This will be discussed by developers, producers, suppliers and equipment manufacturers who are involved in these processes in the background.

• New bioproduction systems: Bio-based production methods are well-established in the speciality sector. Companies like Genomatica are aiming higher in developing the large-scale production of chemicals.

What are the opportunities and limitations of the new bio-factories?

• Diversity and gender equality: Change is gradually taking place on the boards of companies within the chemical and pharmaceutical industries. Women are taking over technical portfolios and board chairmanships. Current surveys show that this is by no means the end of the matter.

How can diversity be firmly anchored in the business world and how do companies benefit from it?

CONFERENCE PROGRAMME AND WORKSHOPS A three-tier application-oriented conference programme and numerous satellite workshops will attract participants to the virtual discussion rooms. Achema’s main topics, such as the Lab of the Future, Modular and Flexible Production and Process Security and Safety, will be given a lot of coverage during Achema Pulse.

The virtual event will also mark the beginning of new areas, including the Digital Hub and Circular Innovation Zone, which will bring new stakeholder groups into focus at Achema 2022.

Exhibitors will be active during Achema Pulse with their own streams and workshops, giving potential customers and business partners the opportunity to find out more about their offerings.

"There is a great need for international exchange, which is evident in the response so far to Achema Pulse"

A POSITIVE RESPONSE There is a great need for international exchange, which is evident in the response so far to Achema Pulse.

“We currently have registrations from 23 countries. This shows how important the exchange with others is. The opportunity to do so is gratefully accepted,” says Dr Björn Mathes, project manager of Achema Pulse.

Achema 2022 exhibitors, such as Siemens, GEA, EKATO, OPC Foundation and Romaco, and other first-time exhibitors are using Achema Pulse as an opportunity to stay connected to customers and partners despite travel restrictions and to further develop business concepts and win new partners against the backdrop of COVID-19.

AN INTERACTIVE PLATFORM Achema Pulse is more than just a high-profile virtual event. It offers a safe, interactive and international platform to discuss all the issues that concern chemical engineers in France and China and biotechnologists in the USA and Italy for example.

The interactive platform will open as early as 31 May and shall remain accessible for four weeks from this date. In the virtual environment of Achema Pulse, renowned exhibitors will present their technologies and solutions; participants from all over the world will be able to make contact with and engage in conversation via matchmaking tools based on their specific interests.

In view of the multitude of possibilities, those who cannot experience everything they are interested in live, can subsequently access the recordings until the end of June and can continue to exchange ideas with the speakers by digital means.

Tickets for Achema Pulse are currently on sale via the Achema website, www.achema.de/en. •

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2021

11

INDUSTRY TALK

Clearing the cannabis haze When is cannabis, CBD or hemp legal in cosmetics and food products in South Africa?

Janusz Luterek of Hahn & Hahn Attorneys provides an update on this topic in line with the 2020 regulations as the industry awaits the Cannabis for Private Purposes Act to be enacted.

T

here has been a haze surrounding the use of cannabis in South Africa ever since the Constitutional Court judgement in the Prince case in 2018.

Since 22 May 2020, amendments to the scheduling regulations were published in terms of which, besides scheduling certain CBD medicinal products as Schedule 4, low CBD strength products were rescheduled as Schedule 0.

Currently, the Cannabis for Private Purposes Bill is awaiting enactment. The bill deals with personal private use of cannabis only. It falls under the Department of Justice and Correctional Services and deals mainly with penalties and offences relating to trafficable amounts, commercial amounts and defined limits for personal use and possession. There is a specific exclusion of hemp in this draft.

To understand the situation, the terminology must be understood. Both cannabis (marijuana/dagga) and hemp are varieties of the Cannabis sativa species with cannabis having a higher concentration of THC than CBD and is therefore psychoactive, whereas hemp has a higher concentration of CBD than THC and is therefore less psychoactive.

CANNABIS IN CAM s The Constitutional Court did not legalise cannabis in all its forms for commercial use and, in a nutshell, merely ruled that it is not illegal for an adult to use cannabis in private. There is no legalisation of

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"The Constitutional Court did not legalise cannabis in all its forms for commercial use" growing, distribution, or the manufacture of cannabis-derived products by the Constitutional Court and the normal laws still apply to all of these. Contravention of these laws can result in criminal prosecution and long jail sentences.

In terms of Regulation R586 of 22 May 2020, cannabidiol (CBD) is listed in Schedule 4, except: a) in complementary medicines (CAMs) containing no more than 600mg cannabidiol per sales pack, providing a maximum daily dose of 20mg of cannabidiol, and making a general health enhancement, health maintenance or relief of minor symptoms (low-risk) claim b) processed products made from cannabis raw plant material intended for ingestion containing 0.0075% or less of cannabidiol where only the naturally occurring quantity of cannabinoids found in the source material are contained in the product.

Products that meet the conditions detailed in point a or b are now

regulated as Schedule 0, which is a schedule that includes many over-thecounter medicines such as aspirin and supplements like vitamins.

This scheduling means that the only CBDcontaining products which are allowed are those where the producers are registered as GMP-certified medicines manufacturers and the products themselves are registered as medicines (CAMs which are Schedule 0 or Schedule 4) through the South African Health Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA).

A CLOSER LOOK AT HEMP PROTEIN CBD and cannabis may not be used in food, but what about hemp? Surely hemp protein and derivatives have been sold for a long time in South Africa (usually in health shops) as food? The difficulty is the distinction between hemp and cannabis and whether the hemp is really hemp. In the US, it has been shown that a large proportion of hemp and CBD supposedly derived from hemp actually have levels of THC associated with cannabis and in excess of the maximum

Did you know?

In the US, hemp has a maximum of 0.3% THC whereas in South Africa this in 2020 appeared to be 0.2% THC. CBD or cannabidiol is a naturally occurring non-psychoactive cannabinoid found in the cannabis plant whereas THC, or tetrahydrocannabidiol, is the main psychoactive compound/cannabinoid found in the plant, in both cannabis and hemp.

INDUSTRY TALK

"The quantity of CBD that can be used in a cosmetic is still to be confirmed" permissible in the US (and thus in South Africa, even under the SAHPRA position).

Presuming that there is certainty that actual hemp is being used with no THC and no CBD then it is arguable that it can be used in foods as a food ingredient, such as hemp protein, or a food additive, such

no THC (a certificate of analysis would be required to prove the contents of the formulation). Yet, the quantity of CBD that can be used in a cosmetic is still to be confirmed.

With regard to hemp, parts of the plant that do not contain THC and very little CBD

as a flavouring, in terms of the FCD Act (in that it is safe and is ordinarily eaten as a foodstuff). The matter is, however, complicated by a pending amendment to the Liquor Products Act Regulations which aims to prohibit the use of hemp flavourings or nature-identical hemp flavourings or extracts or anything derived from the genus cannabis in any liquor product.

can and have been used in cosmetics for quite some time and some big brands sell such products in South Africa.

CANNABIS AND HEMP IN COSMETICS But can you put cannabis into a cosmetic (e.g. a face cream, face wash, body oil etc)? The short answer is, it’s a grey area.

R586 excludes CAMs and processed products made from cannabis raw plant material intended for ingestion containing 0.0075% or less from Schedule 4 and places them into Schedule 0, meaning it is still a medicine.

The above exclusion does not apply to cosmetics as it is specifically applied to CAMs (which is excluded in the definition of a cosmetic) and processed products intended for ingestion.

On the other hand, R586 states that any processed products made from cannabis containing 0.001% or less of THC would still fall under a Schedule 0 medicine.

So, a cosmetic containing any amount of THC would still fall under the MRS Act and would not be permissible.

There is a possibility for CBD to be added as an ingredient in a cosmetic provided there are no health claims and absolutely

THE CULTIVATION LICENSE REMAINS A PRIORITY The Cannabis for Private Purposes Bill and the Hemp Bill which must follow, only deal with personal private use of cannabis. The Cannabis for Private Purposes, as the name says, prohibits all commercial use and deals mainly with penalties and offences relating to trafficable amounts, commercial amounts and defined limits for personal use and possession. This is still draft legislation but it seems it will in no way

clarify commercial legality requirements other than the amounts considered as a criminal offence.

Commercial quantity offences are punishable with the highest class of offence of a fine or imprisonment of up to 15 years in terms of the draft.

There is a specific exclusion of hemp in this draft and a separate Hemp Bill must follow in due course.

Under all circumstances, a cultivation license is required in order to actually grow the cannabis or hemp prior to creating a product. This should be the first priority before starting a hemp or cannabis business. SAHPRA communication to stakeholders after the release of the R586 amendment of the schedules under the Medicines and Related Substances Act highlighted this as a requirement. In South Africa, only 16 cultivation licenses have been issued and can be found on SAHPRA’s website.

Thus, the haze can be partially lifted on the subject of the commercial use of cannabis and CBD but there are still grey areas, especially surrounding the use of hemp and its derivatives as a food ingredient. It is clear that government has no intention of legalising commercial trade in THC-containing consumables and high-potency CBD products, other than those regulated as medicines. •

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Janusz Luterek holds degrees in both chemical engineering and law. He is a registered attorney, patent attorney, professional engineer and a partner of Hahn & Hahn. Luterek is also a custodian member of the South African Association for Food Science and Technology (SAAFoST) and serves on the FSI for some of his clients. In 2019, he received the SAAFoST President’s Award.

Hahn & Hahn Attorneys – www.hahnlaw.co.za SAHPRA – www.sahpra.org.za

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13

ANTI-AGEING/WELL-AGEING

Empowering women to look

better without looking younger Healthy ageing, also more commonly known as the well-ageing movement, is inspiring global beauty brands and cosmetics manufacturers to create inclusive beauty products that support skin health. The movement is also relevant to menopausal beauty where cosmetic products are designed to address the skin and hair concerns of midlife women, resulting from the lack of estrogen. By Abby Vorster

I

n the past, women dreaded menopause; the topic was taboo and there was little to no support for women going through this life stage. Over the past five years, the cycle of silence surrounding menopause has been broken by campaigns for better education, support and care on the topic.

What’s even more noteworthy is how the negative conversation around menopause has evolved to encompass more positive and uplifting messages, in line with society’s changing perception of ageing.

Instead of slowing the process, which is considered anti-ageing, consumers are more interested in being at their healthiest as they age. For women, this is particularly true during menopause, which women experience between their 40s and 60s.

Statistics show that 50% of the global population will experience menopause – which means there is a massive target market for menopausal beauty, skin and hair care products formulated to make the process more comfortable.

EXPLORING THE THREE STAGES In order to address the skin and hair care needs of menopausal women, it’s important to understand the three stages of the journey.

The first stage is perimenopause. This is when estrogen fluctuations occur, and symptoms are at their most intense.

According to healthcare experts, there are more than 34 recognised symptoms, some of which include fatigue, mood swings, hair loss, headaches, dry and itching skin and changes in body odour.

Perimenopause starts as early as age 45 and can continue for an average of seven to

Did you know?

The top three menopausal symptoms of African American women are sleep difficulty (85%), hot or cold flashes (57%) and forgetfulness (50%). In comparison, feeling hot or cold is top (72%) for Caucasian women, followed by allergy symptoms (65%) and forgetfulness (60%).

Source: WGSN

ten years before menopause occurs. This is when 12 full months have passed since a woman’s last menstrual cycle – the very next day is known as menopause and it only lasts one day. Thereafter, women enter post-menopause. This third and final stage occurs daily after reaching menopause and lasts for the rest of a woman’s life.

The cycle from the first to final stage causes hormones to fluctuate. The decrease in estrogen levels contributes to a decline in collagen, causing skin to lose firmness, become thin and saggy, and results in changes in skin texture. It also affects the hair cycle with less hair produced in the growth phase, and it causes hot flashes.

INGREDIENTS AND IDEAS FOR NPD As a global producer of fragrances, flavours and cosmetic ingredients, Symrise offers a full basket of technologies for menopausal beauty collections.

Symrise recommends its Frescolat range to modulate hot flashes. These ingredients are grouped according to the

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ANTI-AGEING/WELL-AGEING

MENOPAUSE-SPECIFIC BEAUTY AND HAIR PRODUCTS : • Korres Meno-Reverse Volumising Serum-In-Moisturiser is designed

to target the visible changes in postmenopausal skin.

• Meg’s Menopause offers a range of products, from a facial cooling spray and HA serum to an intimate wash and water-based lubricant, to tackle dry skin, collagen loss and hot flashes.

• Emepelle is a line of skin care products developed specifically for estrogen-deficient skin. The products are said to harness the restorative benefits of patented MEP technology, which encourages skin to behave as if estrogen is still present in the body, ultimately restoring collagen.

• Better Not Younger is a new hair care brand developed for ageing hair. Each product is thoughtfully formulated to address a particular ageing hair, scalp or inner health need. The restorative hair mask is dedicated to women experiencing the effects of perimenopause on their hair.

intensity of freshness they impart, from low to high, to provide a pleasant refreshing effect on the skin with a longer efficacy than menthol.

The effect is demonstrated in a cooling mist formulated with Frescolat X-Cool, which cools down the body and mind with just a spritz, when one is experiencing a hot flash. The mist gives a pleasant refreshing feeling upon application with instant relief from the discomfort of a hot flash. It also helps women to keep cool by creating the sensation that the body temperature is decreasing.

For a rich hydrating cream to care for dry and fragile skin, Symrise offers Hydroviton Plus and SymGlucan, which are both proven to restore natural moisture levels in skin. SymRepair 100 supports the topical application of lipids to counter reduced lipid production. Along with SymReboot

L19, SymRepair 100 is also effective in improving the integrity of the skin’s barrier.

Sagging skin is another key concern of midlife women as skin loses up to 30% of collagen within the first five years of postmenopause. This is because the hormonal fluctuations lead to a loss of connective tissue (i.e. collagen and elastin) and changes in the distribution of fat tissue, resulting in a decline in subcutaneous fat. The effects are first seen in the face and lead to reduced elasticity and a decrease in skin firmness at the cheeks and neckline.

To address these concerns, Symrise offers a variety of products for a holistic approach.

SymMatrix, a natural antioxidant, helps to protect from collagen degradation and photo-ageing, SymFinity 1298 boosts skin’s resilience to stress and helps protect elastin from degradation. Dragosine, a di-peptide naturally produced by the body, helps to provide protection from oxidative stress and the damaging effects of solar radiation. It has been proven to improve skin elasticity and firmness, reduce fine lines and wrinkles and boost collagen production.

SymGlucan provides immediate comfort and moisture while advancing firmness and elasticity; and SymDecanox HA is a hyaluronic acid enhancer.

A SOLUTION FOR AGEING HAIR During menopause, it is also possible for hair growth to occur on a woman’s face while the hair on her head may become dull, dry and thinner and start to fall out easily.

This is mainly due to the drop in estrogen levels in her body.

Estrogen is a ‘hairfriendly hormone’, which helps hair in its anagen (growth) phase.

When these hormone levels are lowered, it can cause a shorter hair growth cycle that is both slower and produces thinner hair.

Often there is also a higher ratio of testosterone present in a midlife woman’s body which will shrink hair follicles and cause hair loss. To fight hair loss and hair thinning at three different levels, Symrise offers SymHair Force. It is clinically proven to increase hair density and offers root revitalisation and volume enhancing benefits.

Symrise’s revitalising shampoo for mature hair formulated with SymHair Force 1631 addresses the hair-thinning and

"There is a massive target market for menopausal beauty, skin and hair care products formulated to make the process more comfortable" hair-loss worries of menopausal women.

The microalgae extract from Tahitian seas provides a source of strength for hair fibres, preventing breakage. It also helps to enhance hair growth and volume with regular washes resulting in stronger, fuller and fall-resistant hair.

PLANT-POWERED BEAUTY Botanical ingredients such as hemp, vanilla and kiwi are known to be rich in vitamin and mineral compounds. Symrise also produces a range of botanical oils and extracts ideal for menopausal beauty collections.

Cranberry oil is rich in vitamins and key essential fatty acids like omega 3, 6 and 9. It is also an excellent source of beneficial nutrients that may help to support well-ageing.

Extrapone Kiwi is rich in antioxidants thanks to the extensive benefits of this bright green fruit. The kiwi is not only recognised as a vitamin bomb but also as a veritable youth elixir. Symrise’s organic hemp oil has a high level of omega 3, which is known to be beneficial in dealing with hot flashes. Hemp is also celebrated for its properties that have a positive effect on well-being and for its soothing and moisturising benefits.

Actipone Vanilla, extracted from the mood-enhancing spice of vanilla, may impart soothing, antioxidant and stimulant benefits when used in a cosmetic, while Extrapone Ginseng, sourced from the oval root traditionally used in herbal remedies, may moisturise and sooth dry and sensitive skin in well-ageing skin care applications. •

Symrise – www.symrise.com

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ANTI-AGEING/WELL-AGEING

Natural peptide to firm the neck and face In the beauty and personal care industry there is an increasing shift towards effective anti-ageing and firming products with proven benefits driven by evolving consumer needs. Developed by Tri-K, NaturePep Teff offers skin care formulators an efficient active ingredient for products targeting specific problem areas in mature skin.

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t is well known that skin ageing causes a decline in collagen production and flattening of dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), which leads to a decrease in structural support, strength and elasticity, resulting in the appearance of fatigued, saggy and wrinkled skin. In particular, neck and nasolabial fold sites have fragile skin that requires very specific care.

NaturePep Teff (INCI name: Hydrolysed Eragrostis Tef Seed Extract) is a solution for this vulnerable area, as it was specifically designed to target delicate skin sites such as the neck and nasolabial folds. The natural peptide technology provides clinically-proven anti-ageing benefits via a multi-targeted biological mechanism of action. It targets the DEJ, which is significantly affected during the ageing process.

TOTAL CARE FOR DELICATE SKIN Sun exposure, pollution, diet, a lack of sleep, stress and exposure to blue light from digital Day 0

Day 28

NaturePep Teff decreases neck lines and tightens the skin at this site for visibly smoother, firmer and younger looking skin

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Table 1: TRI-Phase firming serum formulation Phase A

B

C

D E

INCI

Ingredients

Water

Water

to 100

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

GLDA

0.03

Glycerin

Glycerine

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Cellosize QP 100 MH

Water, Sodium PCA, Wheat Amino Acids, Panthenol, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyproline

Fision Hydrate

Hydrolysed Eragrostis Tef Seed Extract (proposed)

NaturePep Teff

Phenoxyethanol, Undecylenoyl Glycine, Capryloyl Giycine

Galguard Trident

042090/Blue 1 (0.1% Solution)

Puricolor Blue ABL9-X FDA 4

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Fisione EcoSil

Squalene

OleaClear Olive Squalene

Perfluorodecalin

Oxygen8

devices are among the internal and external influences that cause fatigued skin and skin ageing.

NaturePep Teff stimulates the production of collagens and reinforces the DEJ to strengthen skin’s structural support, integrity and firmness. It also improves elasticity and visibly rejuvenates the appearance of aged, fatigued skin.

Clinical efficacy studies demonstrate that after only 28 days of treatment, neck skin looked visibly firmer, toned and more revitalised,

while nasolabial folds are noticeably diminished and show a smoother texture.

This highly-effective natural peptide derived from Teff seeds is quite versatile and can be used across various formulation types, including a serum formulation showcased in Table 1. The anti-ageing technology is also suitable for face, neck and décolletage cosmetic categories. • AECI Specialty Chemicals – charmaine.dupreez@aeciworld.com Tri-K – www.tri-k.com

%

1 0.05 2 2 0.5 0.05 14 6 30

ANTI-AGEING/WELL-AGEING

The changing perceptions on ageing For thousands of years, people have been applying mixtures on their skin to either protect it from ageing or to look younger. This concept of ‘hope in a jar’, where people became open to trying a cosmetic product as long as it helped them to look younger or preserve their youth, has withstood the test of time, until only recently. Harald van der Hoeven of CLR Berlin explores the well-ageing movement and how consumers’ perceptions around ageing are changing dramatically.

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any consumers are still looking for that miracle, though they are ever fewer. We are seeing a clear shift in the paradigm. As cosmetic scientists know, it is easier to slow down the ageing process of skin than to make older skin clearly look and feel younger. This is what the consumer has now also come to realise.

We are now in the midst of a movement where the thinking and perceptions around ageing are changing dramatically. As cosmetic scientists, we need to adapt to these changes and those we expect to occur in the future.

The anti-ageing market will continue to be the most important segment for the skin care industry, but we will probably have to rename it. The ‘anti-times’ are definitely over, and the focus will soon start to shift to ‘well-ageing’.

Consumers accept the fact that they are ageing, yet at a younger age they have a proactive attitude in the sense that they try to age as healthily as possible. As consumers get older, they also accept a wrinkle or two, though they want to be and look as healthy as possible. In addition to this, if they are healthy and look healthy, they will feel healthy too, associating this experience with a positive state of well-being.

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The fact that ageing is a concept which is more accepted now than in the past, does not mean that consumers will start to reduce their use of skin care products. They will still have a need to take good care of their skin and protect it, yet they may have a smaller focus on fighting age-related skin issues.

Skin care formulations, as well as the related marketing concepts and communication with consumers, will also change.

NEW NEEDS OF SAFETY AND EFFICACY At CLR in Berlin, active ingredients are always developed with the evolving consumer in mind. Already in the 1950s, CLR started to develop active ingredients with real scientific

Did you know?

Well-ageing, healthy ageing and wellbeing are not trends, they are movements which are here to stay and will develop further. In providing products that fit consumer expectations, the science of ageing has not changed, though the way we look at it has.

proof as, in post-war Europe, when normal life resumed for consumers, the use of skin care products coupled with the demands for the efficacy of these products, rose strongly. Although life had been difficult for many years, when life returned to normal, consumers wanted to take extra care of themselves once again. At the time, CLR became instantly successful because of the quality and efficacy of its products.

Over the last 70 years not much has changed when it comes to the mentality of developing effective ingredients in line

ANTI-AGEING/WELL-AGEING

AnnonaSense CLR

CutiBiome CLR

with market demands, which are constantly evolving. Nowadays, consumers want skin care products to work for them. The concept of ‘hope in a jar’ has evolved into ‘expectations from the jar’. Expectations do not end with efficacy, though. Consumers want the cosmetic products, including the active ingredients in the formulation, to be safe, natural, sustainable etc.

By law, cosmetics need to be safe. When it comes to natural claims, there is room for debate, but this is not a concern for the consumer. They have their demands and the cosmetics industry need to take them seriously. This includes CLR as an active ingredient supplier. Efficacy and safety have always been a top priority for the company, while sustainability, with topics like fermentation and upcycling, were already a focus from the outset when CLR established itself as an active ingredient supplier.

ProBioBalance CLR

"The concept of ‘hope in a jar’ has evolved into ‘expectations from the jar’" becomes pronounced, leaving skin inflamed, irritated and looking unhealthy. These processes obviously have a large impact on the wellbeing of the consumer too.

In order to provide a good solution for the modern consumer it is not enough to provide them with a product which reduces wrinkles and firms the skin. These might still be important features for many consumers, but the above needs to be addressed as well. With the experience CLR has with developing active ingredients for the evolving consumer, some interesting approaches can be recognised.

PRODUCTS FOR THE MICROBIOME GLOBAL CONSUMER MOVEMENTS Skin ageing is a result of the accumulation of damage in the skin and the skin cells. Skin is exposed to many external stresses which can have damaging effects. At a younger age, we are able to take care of the problems by repairing the damage, but, with age, we increasingly lose this ability. Essentially that is what the essence of ageing is; we lose the ability to deal with these problems and our immune capacity is depleted. If our immune system is capable, it will deal with problems effectively in a way which is essentially ‘under the radar’. When we lose immune capacity, we not only experience problems with repairing damage, but also our skin becomes more sensitive – and what was hidden before now

Since the 1970s, CLR’s focus has been on supporting the skin’s immune capacity.

Probiotic bacteria were fermented and then lysed to obtain metabolites and cellular constituents of beneficial bacteria. When applied on skin, immune strengthening effects could be seen and quantified. On the basis of this technology, products such as ProBioBalance CLR (INCI: Water, Lactose, Milk Protein, Bifida Ferment Lysate) and ProRenew Complex CLR (INCI: Lactococcus Ferment Lysate) were developed.

ProBioBalance CLR compensates for the suppression of immune capacity of the skin after exposure to UV light. It soothes and calms the skin and induces cellular repair mechanisms, which include autophagy.

ProRenew Complex

ProRenew Complex CLR supports skin cells in building skin and skin renewal. Skin becomes healthier and better moisturised with this active ingredient. Interestingly, the skin microbiome profits from this as well. This was proven in a large study together with three universities.

BOTANICAL PRODUCTS CutiBiome CLR (INCI: Octyldodecanol, Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil, Piper Nigrum Seed Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract) and AnnonaSense CLR (INCI: Annona Cherimola Fruit Extract) provide the skin with the means to gain and maintain absolute balance.

CutiBiome CLR gives support to skin when it is out of balance and unhealthy. It will help in regaining the balance in skin and the skin’s microbial composition. The skin microbiome is now recognised as playing an inherent part in the health and quality of our skin and will play an integral role in skin care in the future.

AnnonaSense CLR supports skin’s most important tool, the endocannabinoid system, to provide it with health. It potentiates this system, making skin healthier, less irritated and less reactive.

Products such as MPC-Milk Peptide Complex (INCI: Whey Protein) and Phytosan K (INCI: Glycine Soja Seed Extract) will provide cosmetic scientists with a means to fight wrinkles and firm skin.

These products and others from CLR Berlin are available locally from IMCD South Africa. •

CLR Berlin – www.clr-berlin.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com

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ANTI-AGEING/WELL-AGEING

AI-designed

biofunctional ingredient defies skin ageing Inspired by forest therapy, Ashland has launched Santalwood biofunctional, a natural extract of sandalwood. This active ingredient is clinically tested on several skin ageing parameters, bringing the well-ageing and regenerative benefits of sandalwood to skin care.

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antalwood biofunctional is the first biofunctional developed by Ashland using artificial intelligence (AI) to predict unexplored biological pathways in well-ageing. These include skin olfactory receptors OR2AT4, cell senescence, cell longevity and barrier regeneration.

“Ashland continues to look to ancient ceremonies and current trends such as forest therapy to bring new technologies to the field of personal care active ingredients and which amplify the efficacy of our customers’ products,” says Joel Mantelin, vice president of marketing and business development, biofunctionals and naturals, at Ashland.

Forest therapy is an emerging health and wellness trend. It is inspired by the

"Ashland has made a major scientific contribution to understanding the impact of age and environmental damage on skin olfactory receptors" 20

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traditional Japanese ritual of shinrin yoku, which means ‘bathing in the forest’. Various studies have shown the therapeutic connection between forest bathing and improved mental health.

Practiced today in the form of guided forest walks or hiking in nature – forest therapy eases stress and aids relaxation.

Several scientific studies state that inhaling forest volatile organic compounds (VOCs) may result in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects on the airways.

The pharmacological activity of some forest VOCs absorbed through inhalation may also be beneficial to promote brain function, decrease mental fatigue, induce relaxation and improve cognitive performance and mood.

A BREAKTHROUGH IN SKIN CARE RESEARCH Through its research, Ashland has made a major scientific contribution to understanding the impact of age and environmental damage on skin olfactory receptors, OR2AT4.

Reconstructed human epidermis models from various donors of different ages showed that the olfactory receptors decline with age, reducing skin’s capacity to regenerate.

Did you know?

For many centuries, sandalwood has been used in religious ceremonies and in Ayurvedic medicine. It is also used

by Hindus and Buddhists to create a meditative atmosphere while Ancient Egyptians believed that sandalwood was essential to reincarnation. Today, it is widely used in aromatherapy to alleviate stress and calm the mind.

Ashland also demonstrated for the first time that there is a strong connection between the decline in OR2AT4 and cell senescence. Factors such as skin ageing, cellular senescence and exposure to air pollutants or P-VOCs resulted in a decrease in OR2AT4 while the activation of these olfactory receptors was associated with barrier regeneration and wound healing. Based on these findings, OR2AT4 can be considered a new marker for skin ageing.

To confirm the efficacy of Santalwood biofunctional, it was tested ex vivo on a skin biopsy of a 37-year-old. A visible increase in OR2AT4 expression was observed in skin treated with 1% of the biofunctional ingredient, suggesting its positive effect on barrier regeneration.

ANTI-AGEING/WELL-AGEING

In a reconstructed human epidermis, the ingredient also showed to increase OR2AT4 mRNA. The results of an in vitro study revealed that Santalwood biofunctional increases OR2AT4 in senescent skin, highlighting the ingredient’s significance in increasing cell longevity.

BASED ON A CIRCULAR ECONOMY Santalwood biofunctional is sourced from Santalum album grown sustainably in Australia’s Kimberley region near Perth,

where regenerative agricultural principles and water-efficient irrigation techniques are used. The trees are primarily grown for sandalwood essential oil obtained by steam distillation.

The biofunctional ingredient is sourced from upcycled wood chips – a by-product of the essential oil distillation – using supercritical CO2 extraction technology.

The entire process is based on a circular economy, which advances the corporate environmental, social and governance agenda of Ashland.

Anne Clay, the company’s global marketing manager, comments: “Sandalwood produces forest VOCs that form only with the right mix of genetics and environmental factors.

Ashland’s Santalwood biofunctional captures from the sandalwood selective forest VOCs that are key for wellbeing, to enhance skin’s olfactory receptors that decrease with age and from exposure to air pollution.”

Available in South Africa from Millchem, Santalwood biofunctional is clinically proven to firm and regenerate skin and to reduce wrinkles. It is oil-soluble, veganfriendly and can be formulated in a wide range of well-ageing beauty products to transform skin’s appearance from dull and lifeless to vibrant and glowing. The recommended use level of Santalwood biofunctional is 1% to 2%. The ingredient is also inherently biodegradable while its COSMOS validation is pending. • Ashland – www.ashland.com Millchem – www.millchem.com

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ANTI-AGEING/WELL-AGEING

Slowing ageing to prolong youth

Time flies for most of us. It is also a known fact that time takes a toll on our skin, changing our appearance over the years. This increases our desire to want to stop time and regain our smoother, more radiant and healthier appearance of previous years. What if, instead of focusing on stopping ageing, which is impossible, we focused on slowing the process? By Júlia Comas, Elena Cañadas, Sylesh Venkataraman and Raquel Delgado

T

he desire to slow time and prolong our youth can be achieved by focusing on telomeres, which are key elements in the skin cells. Prevention of the shortening of telomeres is believed to hold the secret to looking

better for longer.

Telomeres are repetitive nucleotide sequences located at the end of the chromosomes, whose role it is to act as caps and protect the genetic information stored in the chromosomes.

However, with each cell division, a portion of the end of the chromosome is lost. The repetitive shortening of telomeres ends in a critical short length that leads to a loss of chromosome protection and, eventually, to cellular senescence and skin ageing.1, 2 To minimise and slow the critical shortening of the length of chromosomes, in order to delay senescence, cells have developed a complex of proteins, named telomerase.

These help to maintain telomere length, by adding telomere nucleotide repeats at the end of the chromosomes. However, with ageing, telomerase activity slows down and telomere length also ends up shortening to a critical point, after which cells become senescent.1, 3 Senescent cells are characterised by the loss of a network of proteins named lamins which cover the inner layer of the membrane of the cells’ nucleus and participate in DNA replication and repair. Specifically, the loss of lamin B1 is considered a biomarker to identify senescent cells.4, 5 Developed by Lipotec Active Ingredients, a Lubrizol Life Science company, Lapagyl advanced botanical ingredient is a sustainablysourced oil-based lapacho bark extract, which helps prevent telomere shortening and cellular senescence. The ingredient promotes a slower ageing process and increased skin longevity, which leads to a radiant, younger and betterlooking appearance.

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IN VITRO TESTING OF KEY TELOMERASE-COMPLEX GENES First, we assessed the effect of Lapagyl advanced botanical ingredient on the gene expression from the telomerase complex.

For this purpose, a reconstructed human epidermis model was treated with 2% of the active ingredient. Subsequently, the gene expression of the telomerase complex was measured using a microarray analysis.

After the active treatment, there was an upregulation between 20% and 25% of GAR1 (GAR1 ribonucleoprotein) and DKC1 (Dyskeratosis congenita1, dyskerin), which are genes involved in the proper functioning of the telomerase complex, which is key in preventing telomere shortening.

PREVENTING TELOMERE SHORTENING AND CELLULAR SENESCENCE In order to evaluate whether the active ingredient could in fact prevent telomere shortening, we worked with a model of replicative senescence in keratinocytes, where senescence was induced to the cells by repetitive cell duplication in the presence or absence of Lapagyl advanced botanical ingredient at 0.03%. Thereafter, the length of telomeres was measured by RT-PCR. When cells were aged in the presence of Lapagyl advanced botanical ingredient, the length of the telomeres was preserved, reducing the shortening by about 54%.

Furthermore, in order to confirm that the preservation of the length of the telomeres would correspond to a delay of senescence, we used the same model of replicative senescence in keratinocytes to determine,

by RT-PCR, the level of lamin B1 gene expression, which is known to be reduced with senescence. Results showed a significant recovery of the age-induced loss of lamin B1 (p<0.0001), confirming that senescence was delayed with the active treatment.

Day 0

Day 28

Figure 1: : Visible improvement in the crow’s feet area noticeable after 28 days of treatment

A YOUTHFUL AND BEAUTIFUL APPEARANCE The overall improvement of skin’s appearance provided by the active treatment was evaluated on 30 female volunteers between 41 and 65 years old. The volunteers applied a cream containing 3% Lapagyl advanced botanical ingredient to half of the face and a placebo cream to the other half, twice a day for one month. The following parameters were evaluated at the end of the treatment: 1. Minimised appearance of wrinkles: The depth of crow’s feet wrinkles was evaluated by means of a real 3D microtopography imaging system based on fringe projection, showing a visible decrease in wrinkle depth of 21.6% (p<0.001) at the end of the one-month treatment (see Figure 1).

2. Skin radiance: The improvement in skin radiance was assessed by measuring the gloss parameter on the cheek using spectrophotometry. Lapagyl advanced botanical ingredient increased skin radiance by an average of 24.4% in a statistically significant manner (p<0.001) (see Figure 2).

3. Skin moisturisation: The effect on skin hydration was measured on the cheek of the volunteers using corneometry.

ANTI-AGEING/WELL-AGEING CONCLUSION

Lapagyl advanced botanical ingredient significantly enhanced skin moisturisation by an average of 17.9% (p<0.001), reaching an increase of up to 60% for the best respondent.

DECREASING THE DROOPY EYELID In a second clinical test, we evaluated whether Lapagyl advanced botanical ingredient could help minimise the drooping of the upper eyelid, which can occur with ageing. For this purpose, a panel of 33 female volunteers aged between 44 and 65 years applied a Day 0

Day 28

Figure 2: Before and after images of a volunteer, showing a visible improvement in skin radiance after 28 days of treatment

Figure 3: Superimposed before and after images of the upper eyelid, showing an increase in the length of the vertical line drawn from the base of the upper eyelid to the eyelid fold, showing how the fold is minimised due to a firmer skin

cream with 2% Lapagyl advanced botanical ingredient around one eye and a placebo cream around the other, twice a day for two months. The efficacy of the active ingredient was determined by measuring the firmness of the skin of the upper eyelid with cutometry, while the lifting effect was analysed with digital pictures.

The results showed that the treatment with 2% Lapagyl advanced botanical ingredient significantly improved the firmness of the upper eyelid by 7.6% (*p<0.05). With the before and after images superimposed, the lifting effect of the upper eyelid was clearly observed, helping to achieve a youthful and improved appearance (see Figure 3).

Available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, Lapagyl advanced botanical ingredient showed in vitro to upregulate key telomerase complex genes and to prevent telomere shortening, while delaying cellular senescence. When applied on volunteers’ skin, it minimised the appearance of wrinkles, improved skin radiance and moisturisation and enhanced skin firmness of the upper eyelid for a youthful and improved appearance. •

REFERENCE: 1. Buckingham EM, Klingelhutz AJ. The role of telomeres in the ageing of human skin. Exp. Dermatol. 20(4):297302, 2011.

2. Jiang H, Ju Z, Rudolph KL. Telomere shortening and ageing. Z Gerontol Geratr. 40(5):314-24, 2007.

3. Picknett TM, Brenner S. Telomerase. Encyclopedia of Genetics, 2001.

4. Freund A, et al. Lamin B1 loss is a senescenceassociated biomarker. Molecular Biology of the Cell.

23:2066-2073, 2012.

5. Shimi T, et al. The role of nuclear lamin B1 in cell proliferation and senescence. Genes & development.

25:2579-2593, 2011.

Lubrizol Life Science – www.lubrizol.com/beauty Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

© 2021 The Lubrizol Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

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Holistic active takes on senescence for healthy ageing Celyscence, a new milk thistle flower extract from Clariant Active Ingredients, targets senescence to recover healthy skin and improve hydration and brightness. Demonstrating its scientifically proven effectiveness on areas including the sensitive-to-ageing yet often neglected décolleté, the active delivers a new approach for formulation design in the healthy ageing skin care space.

S

enescent cells (fibroblasts) can trigger an unhealthy state of the skin at any age. Chronological ageing is associated with the accumulation of senescent fibroblasts and is exacerbated by the impact of regular exterior stressors like pollution and UV light. These fibroblasts alter and generate damage more quickly than their healthy counterparts. They are highly resistant to apoptosis (cell death), impair biological regenerative and repair functions, and even secrete molecules that damage surrounding cells, turning them senescent. This undermines skin’s ability to maintain a healthy structure, causing a long list of age-related disorders, including dull, dehydrated skin and a loss of skin firmness from decreased collagen production.

Alexandre Lapeyre, global head of marketing and business development, Clariant Active Ingredients, comments: “Delaying the formation of senescent cells is key to maintaining healthy skin. The novel active ingredient Celyscence has strong capabilities to target and selectively clear out senescent cells, to successfully mitigate the impacts of senescence and repair damaged cells. The skin is protected from silent damage and stays healthier for longer. It’s more hydrated, brighter and firmer. These are just some of its contributions to healthy ageing which will give formulators an exciting and effective new strategy for exploring the future of consumer skin care.”

PROVEN TISSUE REPAIR AND REMODELLING EFFICACY Celyscence is proven in vitro to demonstrate a unique combination of selective senolytic and senomorphic effects, pushing senescent

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Did you know?

Celyscence was developed from Clariant Active Ingredients x Biospectrum research and is said to be a breakthrough innovation for preventing a decline in skin function and to promote healthy ageing. The extract draws on the therapeutic properties of milk thistle, using the flowers to achieve a particularly wide activity in targeting and counteracting cellular senescence.

Celyscence targets senescenceassociated skin damage, improving brightness, hydration and visible firmness

cells to apoptosis (senolytic effect) to maximise their elimination and prevent them from inducing irreversible damage.

Additional experimental evaluations also show the ability of the active to reprogramme senescent cells and reverse their loss of functionality, by restoring functions like collagen production. Celyscence reinstates the crucial ability of dermal fibroblasts to produce collagen, which shows its ability to reprogramme senescent cells. This ultimately ensures aged tissue repair and remodelling efficacy.

The potential of Celyscence to deliver healthy ageing properties has been assessed under extreme and real-life conditions. In vivo testing focused on the lower face, throat and décolleté area, to determine its suitability for mature skin care, healthy ageing products and neck firming

" 3% Celyscence rapidly decreased melanin content on facial skin"

Celyscence is made from the milk thistle flower, which has been used as a therapeutic herb in traditional medicine for over 2 000 years

creams. The results confirmed it successfully hydrates skin, increases brightness and radiance, re-firms the chest and neck and addresses issues of sagging skin.

The results of a 56-day clinical trial on a group of 30 female volunteers aged between 50 and 60 showed 3% Celyscence rapidly decreased melanin content on facial skin by more than 5% after only 14 days, providing a brighter and more luminous complexion.

In a self-evaluation after 28 days and 56 days, 81% of the volunteers said their skin looked healthy. The volunteers agreed that the cream with 3% Celyscence made the skin on their chest firmer and brighter. Their décolleté reportedly looked healthier while a visual evaluation showed that their throat area was visibly firmer and their facial contours were remodelled. •

Clariant Active Ingredients – www.clariant.com/celyscence.

ANTI-AGEING/WELL-AGEING

Get luminous skin with a new white pine bark extract Borēaline Aurora from IFF Lucas Meyer Cosmetics is a sustainable white pine bark extract inspired by the majestic and northern lights, which illuminate the boreal sky with breath-taking colours and shapes.

This innovative active ingredient improves skin complexion and luminosity providing radiant and glowing skin.

"The boreal bark extract showed great results after only 14 days"

B

orēaline Aurora simultaneously works on three parameters of skin complexion. It reduces skin pigmentation by inhibiting melanin synthesis with a direct and indirect (cell-to-cell communication) action on melanogenesis. It decreases the appearance of skin redness by reducing inflammation and improves skin translucency and reduces yellowness by protecting skin proteins from carbonylation.

The boreal bark extract showed great results after only 14 days when tested on the face and hands of Caucasian and Asian volunteers, making it a true ally for brands wanting to propose green, efficacious inclusive beauty products.

CIRCULAR ECONOMY-BASED GREEN ACTIVE The extract is truly sustainable in that it uses upcycled White Pine bark from the Canadian wood industry.

Although White Pine is known as the king of the forest and a tree of peace, its bark is an undervalued and waste by-product of wood production. Despite this perception, the tree bark contains the highest concentration of bioactive molecules, as the tree naturally synthetises these molecules as part of its own self-defence mechanism.

The results of clinical tests on the face and hands of Asian and Caucasian volunteers show that Borēaline Aurora improves skin luminosity, clarity and translucency

Extraction of the bioactive molecules occurs immediately after the first transformation of the wood (lumber production) and before the barks are recycled into green energy or composting.

Borēaline Aurora is the fourth green active ingredient launched by IFF Lucas Meyer Cosmetics using this innovative circular economy concept. Borēaline Aurora is available in South Africa from Azelis (previously Orkila). •

Azelis – www.azelis.com IFF Lucas Meyer Cosmetics – www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com

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Is well-ageing the anti-ageing of the future?

In our COVID-19 world almost everything is changing, including the concept of anti-ageing skin care. The longstanding promise of helping to repair what time has taken away is rapidly giving way to a new dawn in the global skin care market with ‘well-ageing’.

John Knowlton of Cosmetic Solutions explores the future of well-ageing and how it is juxtaposed to what is currently understood as the anti-ageing category.

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he premise of well-ageing is to slow the signs of chronological ageing as a function of time.

In other words, the promise of ‘the preservation of youth’, which is a paradoxical twist on the classic antiageing concept of visibly repairing the damage already caused by extrinsic ageing factors.

Not surprisingly, well-ageing is developing an enormous global following and the well-ageing proposition of keeping consumers ‘looking younger for longer’ is what the anti-ageing skin care category has always sought to do, with varying degrees of success.

This trend also presents some interesting, if potentially complex, novel marketing propositions for marketers to exploit. Classic anti-ageing skin care has historically focussed on women in the 35+ years age group, where age and the later onset of menopause present a plethora of skin conditions that need to be specifically addressed – such products, of course, are of no interest whatsoever to the 20 to 35 years age group because ‘it’s not their problem’.

Well-ageing, however, is a radically different proposition, based upon the premise that ‘prevention is better than cure’. This resonates powerfully with younger women in the 20 to 35 years age group, who are insatiably attracted to the idea of skin care products that can assist them in retaining the vibrance of youth that the passage of time threatens to take away.

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"The anti-pollution concept dovetails perfectly into the needs of the wellageing consumer" There are, of course, potential synergies here which are very likely to open up a multiplicity of opportunities to create new sub-categories in the global skin care treatment market. The smartest of companies will surely realise that by developing well-ageing skin care ranges, which may be co-marketed alongside more classic anti-ageing offerings, they can have access to the entire female market, irrespective of age, and start to develop brand loyalty at a much younger age than they would otherwise have been able to do.

DEFINING THE MARKETING CONCEPT So, what does well-ageing really mean and how can it be delivered? There is no unilaterally agreed upon definition of well-ageing, but the sense of the benefit of ‘looking younger for longer’ is universally understood by younger consumers all over the world and they all want more and more of it. As exciting as this is, the challenge from a technical perspective is how to make well-ageing a reality, rather than just a fanciful idea that would be nice to have on one’s wish list?

Delving a little deeper into the well-ageing marketing concept, where the focus is on preventing the signs of ageing rather than repairing damage already caused, it should then be obvious that the concept of prophylactic skin care meets this need.

Translated technically, this means the development of skin care products that can prevent damage to the skin over time. In essence this means protection from environmental aggressors such as sunlight, blue light and pollution, which are the main causative factors of the extrinsic ageing process – if you like, the category of ‘defensive skin care’ is born.

In the context of prophylaxis, the most important role that skin care products play is defending the skin from sun damage caused by UVB and particularly UVA radiation. It has been well-documented for decades that ultraviolet radiation is the prime cause of the development of virtually every sign of premature skin ageing, including wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, rheological attrition and compromised barrier properties, not to mention the critically more serious conditions of

Did you know?

Well-ageing resonates so powerfully with the consumer that the classic concept of anti-ageing is starting to recede. An observation of this is corroborated by the fact that US beauty magazine Allure is in the process of phasing out the use of the phrase ‘anti-ageing’ in its content.

ANTI-AGEING/WELL-AGEING

basal and squamous cell carcinomas and malignant melanoma.

SUN PROTECTION A SIGNIFICANT DRIVER Notwithstanding the advent of well-ageing, the sun care category has seen a radical transformation over the past 50 years.

In the 1970s, sun protection products were in a category of their own and purposefully designed to accelerate the tanning process with little or no regard for the harmful effects of the sun. Indeed, it makes one wonder how many women in those days lost their lives to skin cancer, all in the interest of vanity and the then familiar concept of the ‘tanned film star’ look.

The sun care category today is focussed on protection with a growing

proportion of products offering higher SPF protection, up to at least SPF 50 in most parts of the world, coupled with increased protection against UVA radiation. While the perception of ‘protection first’ has been the driving trend in the category for the last 20 years, it ironically fits perfectly into the well-ageing trend of the future, where the focus of skin care will be to protect skin from environmental damage as much as possible.

Well-ageing is shifting the paradigm for the so-called sun care category, in that sun protection benefits are increasingly finding their way into everyday skin care treatments. This trend is potentiated by the availability of new technologies that make it increasingly possible to develop sun protection products that

are aesthetically superior on the skin, a characteristic that is non-negotiable in appealing to the target market at which well-ageing is aimed.

BLUE LIGHT AND POLLUTION PROTECTION Another environmental aggressor which has become of huge relevance over the past 10 years is blue light radiation, such as that emanating from nearly every electronic communication device used worldwide. What used to be confined to television sets now has enormous global presence, largely due to the exponential growth of mobile phones and social media platforms, both of which, it seems, are now more important to the world’s civilised population than the very air that they breathe.

Considering this trend, many technologies are now being made available which purport to allow the development of skin care products that protect the user from the controversially harmful effects of blue

GlowAGE™ Uncover luminous skin • Prevents and reverses glycation • Decreases yellow skin tone • Reduces wrinkles and smoothes the skin • Features collagen-restoring power

www.mibellebiochemistry.com

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light radiation emanating from their mobile devices. This concept is tailormade for well-ageing and is increasingly viewed as ‘manna from Heaven’ by consumers in the target market, especially as they are statistically the most prolific users of mobile devices.

The COVID-19 pandemic has inevitably accelerated the need for such skin care offerings, given that a proportionally higher number of the world’s population is now working from home where mobile devices, along with their computer screens, are the ‘new normal’ way to stay connected to the outside world.

The last environmental aggressor to be addressed in well-ageing skin care is pollution. The topics of environmental damage and conservation of the planet feature prominently in the media. The fact that mankind is progressively destroying the environment in which he lives has long been past scientific doubt and with an increase in pollution comes an increase in the generation of

environmental free radicals which do untold damage to the skin.

Again, the anti-pollution concept dovetails perfectly into the needs of the well-ageing consumer, especially given the high likelihood that women in the 20 to 35 years age group are far more likely to be concerned about long-term survival of the planet and all that live on it, than their elders.

Technologies that deliver protection against free radical damage abound, so the translation of this marketing proposition into a technical reality is relatively straightforward, being principally achieved using technologies that reduce collagen and elastin attrition, whilst providing stimulation of the rebuilding of the extracellular matrix.

A FUTURE WITHOUT ANTI-AGEING With the COVID-19 pandemic still very much in our midst, the future of many things in life has never been more uncertain and treatment skin care is no exception. The concept of anti-ageing skin care as we know

it has never been in greater danger and the marketing proposition of well-ageing is waiting in the wings to spread its benefits over a much larger proportion of the world’s female population in a non-ageist fashion. Who knows, perhaps in 10 years’ time the category of anti-ageing will have aged so much that it suddenly becomes a thing of the past? •

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

John Knowlton (C.Chem, MRSC, UK Dip Cos. Sci.) has 37 years experience in the cosmetic industry and is the founder of Cosmetic Solutions, which specialises in a wide range of consultancy services to the cosmetics industry.

He is a past president of the South African Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1999) and was chairman of the organising committee of the IFSCC Conference that was hosted in South Africa during the same year.

CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS

BEAUTY MEETS SUSTAINABILITY BELSIL ® ECO

Sustainable production of beauty products now has a name: BELSIL® eco. WACKER is the first manufacturer in the world to offer valuable silicones manufactured according to methods that have been certified to conserve resources – and that use biomethanol from natural sources. This not only conserves fossil-based raw materials: the use of renewable biobased materials also sets a benchmark when it comes to sustainable production using silicone ingredients. And you benefit from environmentally friendly silicone additives of consistently high quality. So use BELSIL® eco and make your production processes responsible and environmentally sound.

More information is available at: www.wacker.com/belsileco wacker.com/socialmedia

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ANTI-AGEING/WELL-AGEING

Promoting skin elasticity to fight sagging When talking about skin ageing, symptoms described by women are multiple while their perceptions are influenced by generational sensitivity. Women aged 30 to 40 are deeply concerned by wrinkles whereas those aged 60 to 70 relate to unpleasant skin sensations leading to their need for comfort and deep nutrition of the skin. Beyond these generational differences, skin sagging appears to be a universal concern.

"EleVastin is a targeted solution for gravity-induced skin sagging"

T

hough the laws of gravity are inescapable, we no longer need to fear the effects they have on our skin.

EleVastin is a targeted solution for gravityinduced skin sagging. This active ingredient aims to bring support to the skin by increasing its resilience and capacity to resist the pressure of gravity. Skin elasticity has been identified as the key parameter in this process.

WHAT IS ELASTICITY? Tissue elasticity is a central parameter for the functioning of vertebrates. Many physiological functions of human tissues (especially those submitted to strong and repeated movements) strongly depend on their elastic properties, such as lungs, cardiac valves or the skin.

In skin, elastic fibres are the primary component in charge of its compliance and resilience. Their synthesis by dermal fibroblasts follows a multifaceted process known as elastogenesis. It results in the combination of molecules of elastin and microfibrils under the intercession of a wide array of microfibrilassociated proteins.

ELASTOGENESIS THROUGH AGEING Elastogenesis takes place during the early stages of foetal development and reaches a peak at puberty. In adult skin, elastic fibres regenerate inadequately while the elastic capital declines with age.

External ageing is also responsible for the impairment of elastic fibres. In photo-

exposed skin, an accumulation of abnormally amorphous elastin, Figure 1: Second harmonic generation microscopy called solar elastosis is observed as showing the density in elastic fibres between the control well as a complete disorganisation (left) and test sample with 0.1% EleVastin (right) of the elastic fibres network. This is mainly due to the activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs).

Thus, during ageing and under environmental stress, the amount of functional elastic fibres is reduced and the biomechanical functions of the skin are Figure 2: Before and after images of a treatment with deeply disturbed. This manifests clinically in 1% EleVastin show improved definition in facial contours a loss of skin elasticity. and a significant reduction in deep vertical wrinkles Associated with the downward pressure To learn more, watch the interview with Dr exerted by gravity on the skin, a loss of skin HDR Nicolas Bechetoille, skin biology research elasticity leads to sagging and the formation of manager. Click here: https://bit.ly/3apBa7T. deep vertical wrinkles. Therefore, reinforcing the skin’s elastic potential appears to be the LIMITING THE IMPACT OF GRAVITY foremost strategy to correct clinical signs of Tested at 1% on 37 volunteers, the ingredient skin sagging. proved its capacity to reduce drooping of the lower face. Various assessment methods ELEVASTIN IN ACTION proved that: EleVastin combats the degradation of the • skin elasticity is significantly improved versus elastic capital. With age, elastic fibres degrade the placebo faster than they are synthesised. EleVastin • facial contours are better defined tends to reverse the balance between • deep vertical wrinkles are synthesis and degradation with a targeted significantly reduced. action at two levels: A novel and original measurement of the 1. the ingredient boosts the synthesis of key effects of gravity on facial morphology was proteins for the assembly of the functional adopted, confirming the ability of EleVastin to elastic fibres: elastin; fibrillin-1 and fibulin-5. limit the impact of gravity on signs of ageing This property has been confirmed using on the face. Substantiation manager, Viviane various models of increasing complexity.

Bardin provides a more in-depth explanation of 2. it protects the elastic fibres from this clinical test, in a video posted online. Click degradation by inhibiting the proteolytic here to learn more: https://bit.ly/3duVp67. activity of MMP-12.

A 100% biobased anti-sagging active, Through this mechanism of action, the active EleVastin is an ideal solution for formulators ingredient ensures an increase of the density and marketers wishing to combine the aspects of elastic fibres coupled with the augmented of robust cosmetic performances with a high elasticity of the skin. These last outcomes natural profile, in skin care products. • have been obtained using an advanced spheroid model developed in Gattefossé’s cell culture laboratory.

Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Gattefossé – www.gattefosse.com

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Goji berry extract builds a foundation for healthy-looking skin DC Instalift Goji is a unique, naturally-derived extract of goji berries which is rich in glycopeptides, amino acids and polysaccharides. This anti-ageing solution from Vantage Specialty Chemicals not only provides instantly visible benefits, but also builds a long-term foundation for healthy, younger skin.

T

he health benefits of goji berries have been recognised for centuries by Tibetan and Himalayan monks. Goji berries are native to China and thrive in other East Asian countries including Nepal and Thailand.

In traditional medicine, the fruit of Lycium barbarum – goji berries – was used to increase longevity, enhance the appearance of the skin and boosts the immune system when taken orally.

Lycium barbarum fruit extract (DC Instalift Goji) has been designed for long term anti-ageing benefits and instant firming results. Extracted from goji berries, an isolated active glycopeptide fraction is generated which combines the skin lifting and firming strength of proteins and polysaccharides.

The goji glycopeptide fraction forms a perfect lifting mesh to support sagging and wrinkled skin, creating

Figure 1: DC Instalift Goji inhibits the oxidative capacity of superoxide free radicals

Did you know?

The glycopeptide found in DC Instalift Goji is dual purpose and provides an instant tightening effect resulting in diminished fine lines and wrinkles.

It also protects skin from stress and degradation from the everyday causes of ageing.

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Figure 2: DC Instalift Goji improves cell viability when exposed to sub-optimal conditions and the active component of Beta-glucosidase

an immediately visible lifting effect.

DC Instalift Goji also offers long-term anti-ageing benefits via MMP inhibition,

antioxidant activity and collagen stimulatory activity for a complete antiageing treatment.

ANTI-AGEING/WELL-AGEING A BERRY THAT’S GREAT FOR SKIN The most exciting benefits of goji berries are associated with their anti-ageing potential. This list includes five reasons why scientists have found this fruit to be important for maintaining healthy, youthful skin: 1. Minerals – Goji berries contain 11 of the 22 essential dietary trace minerals, including calcium, potassium, iron, zinc, and selenium. Though each has a different action, they all help firm, tighten and plump skin’s appearance.

2. Amino acids – at their essence can help smooth the look of skin and improve tone and colour. They also help improve skin hydration. Best of all, they’re non-irritating.

3. Vitamin C – Goji berries contain a high amount of vitamin C, which is known to support firming and tightening and protect the skin from environmental stressors. It’s also been shown to help reduce the appearance of age spots.

4. Carotenoids – These are flavonoids like beta-carotene, zeaxanthin, lutein, lycopene, crytoxanthin and xanthophyll. They have protective

+27% Skin firmness

benefits and are known to help maintain skin’s healthy glow.

5. Polysaccharides – These components have antioxidant, firming, tightening and anti-ageing properties.

HOW DOES THE EXTRACT WORK? New ways to use peptides in skin care are constantly being developed. A glycopeptide, for example, combines the skin-lifting and firming strength of both the peptides and polysaccharides sourced from goji berries. This goji glycopeptide forms a mesh to support sagging and wrinkled skin, creating an immediate subtle lifting effect.

Strategies to remedy various barrier and matrix disturbances associated with anti-ageing are also addressed with DC Instalift Goji. By creating a sturdy barrier, DC Instalift Goji helps to normalise stressed skin and rebalances the way skin works and feels.

Immediate visible

99.8%

FORMULATING WITH THE EXTRACT DC Instalift Goji can be used in skin care and foundation makeup formulations. It can be easily added with medium propeller mixing after phase combination below 45°C. The ideal pH range for systems containing DC Instalift Goji is between 4.0 and 8.0. In skin care, DC Instalift Goji is recommended for use in treatment products to provide an instant skin firming, lifting and tightening effect with the long-term anti-ageing functions expected by consumers. •

Vantage Specialty Chemicals – www.vantagegrp.com

Super food

results

ISO16128 - NOI

"The goji glycopeptide fraction forms a perfect lifting mesh to support sagging and wrinkled skin"

extract

C

China IECIC 2015

VEGAN

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Remodelling contours and redefining femininity

Menopause is a major change in the life of women and has a tremendous impact on the skin, hair and body. There are almost a billion women worldwide who are over the age of 50 and experience menopause-related skin needs.

Did you know?

C

roda, Sederma and Crodarom conducted a global consumer study in

four different regions to gain insights in the specific needs of peri- and menopausal women. The data generated from the study identified that skin sagging is one of the major signs of ageing. Consumers mentioned that sagging of the cheeks, jawline and eyelids were accentuated by menopause. The challenge facing the cosmetics industry is to break the barriers of how ageing and beauty are defined.

The industry needs to offer more realistic concepts that emphasise and include wellbeing, pro-ageing, body positivity and menopausal personal care subcategories.

ECO-DESIGNED ACTIVE INGREDIENT Using smart science to improves lives, Croda is proud to introduce Feminage, a new active ingredient developed by Sederma. It is especially dedicated to women experiencing a loss of skin elasticity and firmness caused by glycation and oxidation events and related to oic decline.

This ethically sourced, eco-designed Engelhardtia chrysolepis leaf extract (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract) has a 100% natural origin in accordance with ISO 16128, is COSMOS-approved and IECIC-compliant.

Engelhardtia is a subtropical tree that grows wild in Asia and contains glycosyl flavonoid molecules. It has traditionally been used in China to prepare a sweet tea that promotes general health and wellbeing.

Feminage mainly targets elastic tissue and helps to protect its integrity, quality and functionality during a higher risk of sugar (glycation) attacks and degradation by elastase.

These effects are associated with vimentin (cytoskeleton) protection and cell resilience

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to glycating stress (fibroblast contractility).

Feminage also helps maintain major components of the dermal-epidermal junction (collagen IV, collagen VII and lamini-5), protects from oxidative stress (DPPH⁰, singlet oxygen, ROS and lipoperoxidation neutralisation) and inflammatory manifestations (PGE-2, IL-6 and IL-8 release reduction).

Feminage helps to compensate for the antioxidant and sugar metabolismregulating effects of os which are reduced with menopause, while improving the elastic tissue quality.

According to the WGSN trend agency, the Early Boomer (born between 1955 and 1964) is the first generation that is looking for ways to own and manage this stage of the ageing process.

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CLINICALLY PROVEN TO BE EFFECTIVE Extensive clinical evaluations were done at 3% on Caucasian menopausal women in France and menopausal women in China, over a two-month period. The results demonstrated the visible and significant efficacy of Feminage (versus a placebo) on the Caucasian and Chinese women’s skin by improving elasticity by 14% and firmness by 8.2%. The active ingredient also smoothed out wrinkles and helped to improve jowl volume by 11.4%, reduced droopy eyelids by 24.7% and improved crow’s feet wrinkles by 9.5% and marionette lines by 14.8%. These results are associated with a higher quality of the elastic

GET MORE INFO ON FEMINAGE ONLINE • To download a presentation and watch a video of Sederma’s marketing director, Olga Gracioso, discussing menopause as a process and concept, as well as the relevance of creating a ‘menopause’ personal care subcategory – click here: https://bit.ly/3v7XF9e.

• For Feminage literature or to request samples, please click here: https://bit.ly/3dCYL71.

T 2 months

Images showing how 3% Feminage helped to smooth out wrinkles and improve jowl volume by 11.4%, over a two-month period

tissue and a preserved fibroblast vitality against glycation and oxidation*.

During the consumer study, 80% of the volunteers perceived significantly reduced eyelid drooping and less tired-looking eyes.

Feminage is designed to support harmonious femininity, to uplift feminine beauty, redefine facial contours and to help the skin transition smoothly and gracefully while going through life’s changes. * All the results of the clinical studies, as well as in vitro studies and consumer study are available upon request through your local sales representative. •

Croda – www.croda.com Crodarom & Sederma – www.crodapersonalcare.com

FRUGAL INNOVATIONS

Smart excipient improves powder flow Sachets are a popular pharma and nutraceutical packaging format for consumers and manufacturers alike. To ensure accurate dosage and administration, the powders used in these delivery systems require excellent flowability. Beneo’s filler-binder galenIQ 721 meets this demand and helps formulators to develop more convenient dosage forms.

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n the pharma and nutraceutical industries, sachets or stickpacks are used for many types of single-dose, dry powder formulations – from pain medication and cold and flu treatments to vitamins, mineral mixes and probiotic preparations.

Consumers appreciate their ease of use and the ability to take them without water. As such, taste and mouthfeel are key.

For manufacturers, sachets offer attractive product formulation benefits without the challenge of having to compress a powder into a tablet. In addition, sachets offer excellent dose accuracy and a large surface area for branding and/or educational information. They also enhance flavour retention because of the PE/

aluminium packaging material, which acts as a superior moisture and oxygen barrier.

A POWDER EXCIPIENT WITH NUMEROUS BENEFITS When developing dry blends for use in sachets, it is crucial that the powder mixture flows precisely and efficiently into the pouch for accurate dosage and proper sealing. Therefore, manufacturers need an excipient that meets the following requirements: • a narrow particle size distribution • a very low fines content • excellent flowability • low hygroscopicity • high physical stability during mixing • high dilution potential • content uniformity.

The agglomerated form of isomalt from Beneo – galenIQ 721 ticks all these boxes.

Being derived from pure sugar beet, it is tooth-friendly, has a sugar-like taste profile, offers a pleasant mouthfeel and enhances the palatability of oral powder applications.

Dr Maj-Britt Cepok, head of business development, pharma, Beneo, comments: “Sachets are trending, as modern consumers seek products that meet the needs of their busy lifestyles. With our galenIQ 721 fillerbinder, we can help manufacturers to tap into this market.”

Beneo’s ingredients, including galenIQ 721, are available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals. For more information visit: www. beneo.com and www.beneonews.com, or follow Beneo on Twitter: @_BENEO and LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/company/beneo. • Beneo – www.galenIQ.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

CUTTING EDGE TECHNOLOGY HIGH QUALITY INGREDIENTS FOR WELLNESS INDUSTRIES

RELIABLE – CONSISTENT – SUSTAINABLE – QUALITY DRIVEN

From basic ingredients to specialty actives for key application areas, such as:

Capsules | Tablets | Liquids | Syrups | Emulsions | Creams | Pastes Johannesburg: +27 11 856 4500 Cape Town: +27 21 551 5353

Durban: +27 31 202 0794 Email: info@savannah.co.za

www.savannah.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2021

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COMPANY FOCUS

$10m investment to catapult KAS Africa’s growth In a transaction aimed at supporting economic growth in Africa, KAS Africa has strengthened its balance sheet with a $10m investment from TRT Investments.

Abby Vorster talks to Vinny Perumal, CEO of KAS Africa, about the Midrand-based contract manufacturer’s unique selling points and its plans for aggressive growth over the next few years.

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s one of Africa’s leading contract manufacturers of personal, home, baby and oral care FMCG products, KAS Africa has built its reputation on achieving the highest levels of quality throughout the manufacturing value chain.

The company is committed to meeting industry demands for a reliable contract manufacturing company that can respond effectively to local and global market dynamics.

Based in Midrand, Gauteng, KAS Africa offers a full basket of in-house services from research, design, testing and sourcing of raw materials to production, packaging and the delivery of premium-quality products.

Did you know?

KAS Africa was established in 2019 after acquiring the assets of Le-Sel Research and taking over employees from the previous company. Since then, the business has been completely rebuilt by KAS Africa in terms of processes, systems and capacities and it has introduced new capabilities while ensuring world-class quality and safety standards are maintained.

A section of the warehousing facility

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Vinny Perumal, CEO of KAS Africa

This 360-degree service offering takes clients’ ideas from concept and design through to sourcing and completion. KAS Africa’s world-class formulation, stability and safety testing facilities also provide clients with foundational support.

WOMEN IN MANUFACTURING KAS Africa is a majority black woman-owned business, with a focus on helping women

previously excluded from the industry to become successful beauty entrepreneurs.

“We have established an academy for previously-excluded females which gives them cost-effective access to a programme that provides them with everything they need to take an idea from a concept to a finished product. The programme uses KAS Africa’s formulation, design, manufacturing, packing, labelling and stability testing services and gives

Quality standards are an overriding principal throughout the manufacturing facility

COMPANY FOCUS

them access to our distribution partners to get their products on the shelves at retailers,” explains Perumal.

Before joining KAS Africa, Perumal worked in the IT and telecoms industry for over 20 years and successfully built and managed a business specialising in backup power for mobile operators. Her drive has always been to localise manufacturing in South Africa, but this was challenging to do in the IT and telecoms industry due to the competition from China.

Determined not to give up her ambition, Perumal decided to enter the personal care and contract manufacturing industry, which led to her discovering a second passion for empowering previously-excluded women to become successful entrepreneurs.

Perumal enjoys the innovation associated with the industry. She is used to the pace and her expertise in redesigning businesses has proven valuable in establishing KAS Africa.

“Over the years, we have built one of the continent’s foremost manufacturing plants in terms of size, volume, product variety and capability standards. We have earned a reputation for delivering quality, localised and flexible manufacturing capabilities, which meet the most rigorous international standards,” she adds.

" We have earned a reputation for delivering quality, localised and flexible manufacturing capabilities" AGGRESSIVE GROWTH PLANS The transaction by TRT Investments includes the purchase of a 49% stake in KAS Africa as well as capital to purchase a new plant and equipment to build the manufacturer’s capacity and capabilities. It also provides KAS Africa with access to working capital put in place by TRT Investments with the support of the African Export-Import Bank.

This will enable KAS Africa to ramp up capital investment in line with its plan to expand in South Africa and, more importantly, throughout Africa. Perumal says, over the next three years, the company will establish two new manufacturing plants on the continent – one in East and another in West Africa.

“We believe continental domestic investment and confidence in regional markets can transform Africa into an economic superpower. There is a close fit between our contract manufacturing business and TRT Investments’ vision for unleashing Africa’s potential as an industrial powerhouse of the future,” she comments.

The investment will also help the contract manufacturer enhance its

product range and expand its client base across the continent. Through its efforts to localise the manufacturing of FMCG products, KAS Africa has become mindful of just how diverse the consumer landscape in Africa is. Perumal says the company celebrates this diversity and is deliberate in how it champions, for instance, the globally recognised term ‘multicultural hair’, instead of referring to ‘ethnic hair’.

KAS Africa also specialises in manufacturing products for niche categories in hair care with its hot fill capability, differentiating it from other manufacturers in the market. In terms of beauty innovations, the company is researching CBDinfused skin and face care products, which it will eventually add to its basket of offerings.

A LEADER IN THE INDUSTRY KAS Africa is a Level 1 B-BBEE company whose processes are deeply integrated in quality, health, safety and environmental management systems. The company recently completed an integrated management system audit with SGS which covers ISO 9001 / ISO 14001 and OHSAS 18001.

The manufacturer’s facility is considered one of the best and biggest in the industry and it is said to be “the leading local contract manufacturing company in terms of size, volume, quality and capability”.

The manufacturing processes at KAS Africa are all carried out in separate product-specific areas, i.e. personal care, home care, baby care and oral care. Within each of these areas, different processes, specific operations and combinations are possible.

Based on these high-quality operational standards and the immense potential of the business, Adam Molai, chairperson of TRT Investments, is positive about the transaction.

“We have bought a significant share in KAS Africa because it fits into our strategy of industrialising Africa and helping to build the continent into the alternate supply chain of the world. Our objective is to increase KAS Africa’s breadth and depth and to grow the company aggressively. We are particularly excited about the company’s potential for expansion into East and West Africa,” says Molai.

TRT Investments is a Mauritian independent investment holding business with more than $200m in assets under management. The company manages a diverse portfolio of investments across Botswana, Mozambique, Nigeria, South Africa, Zambia, Zimbabwe, the United States and Europe. •

KAS Africa – www.kasafrica.com TRT Investments – www.trt.company

A liquids filling line at KAS Africa

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2021

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END OF LINE PACKAGING

Eco-friendly stretch-

wrapping technology Robopac, a market leader in end-ofline packaging, has been working with Pfizer to develop improved solutions for the packaging of pharma products manufactured by the American giant. Their goal is to not only guarantee the safety of these products during transportation but also to protect the environment.

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he collaboration between Robopac and Pfizer is based on a common philosophy, which seeks a collective interest according to a global vision, aimed at providing the

maximum performance of its technologies while respecting society and the environment.

Ecoplat Plus is the solution Pfizer adopted to wrap the doses of vaccines that were distributed in the USA. The solution consists of a turntable for wrapping with the latest generation stretch film and guarantees high performance in terms of maximum protection of goods, thanks to its reliability, strength and ease of use.

In addition, the Ecoplat technology supports reduced raw material impact as it uses less film during the wrapping process without compromising on the safety of the pharma products.

REDUCING THE IMPACT OF PLASTIC Through continuous investments in innovation and technology, Robopac is compelled to protect people and the environment, which the company says ‘are strictly connected elements’. Its four TechLabs located worldwide are living proof of its endeavours to reduce the impact of plastic with results that achieve a 60% reduction in consumption, and which guarantee full recyclability of materials.

It was within a Robopac TechLab that the packaging company first developed a wrapping technology that ensures product stabilisation while minimising the amount of plastic material used during the process. This has resulted in a saving of consumables and a reduced environmental impact.

SUSTAINABILITY A PRIMARY VALUE The Italian producer of packaging equipment is committed to affirming its creed of being ‘one global company’ equipped to offer high-performance packaging solutions in every part of the world, with a particular focus on end of line solutions. It also places extreme attention on topics such as the circular economy and combining technology, innovation and sustainability.

Its widespread presence on international markets allows Robopac to consistently maintain R&D through tailored criteria that meets the most specific needs of each market and each customer.

Responsibility and passion are elements characteristics of the company, together with its increasing attention on sustainability. In this perspective, the producer of packaging equipment is once again pleased to be part of a process that sees people and environmental protection at the centre of its interests, to help counter the devastating global impact of COVID-19. •

Robopac – www.robopac.com/en

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Did you know?

In April 2020, Robopac donated two robotic stretch wrapping machines to the Italian Red Cross, which has headquarters in Rome and Avezzano, in the province of L’Aquila, in Italy. The machines have been stationed at the two logistics distribution centres of the Italian Red Cross, assisting volunteers to handle and pack, both safely and efficiently, all medical equipment and other aids which were distributed regionally during last year’s COVID-19 emergency.

OPEN INNOVATION APPROACH Innovation is a primary genome present in Robopac’s DNA. The group has always viewed the market from a global perspective to ensure the best technologies in the packaging industry and the highest performance in terms of efficiency and production optimisation.

Robopac’s close collaboration with Bi-Rex, one of eight competence centres in region established by Italy’s Ministry of Economic Development, is based on a goal to act as strategic and operational support for companies concerned with the digitalisation of industrial processes in terms of industry 4.0.

Founded in Bologna in 2018, Bi-Rex is a public-private consortium consisting of 57 players made up of universities, research centres and excellence companies, among which the Aetna Group of Robopac appears as a founding member.

This partnership with Bi-Rex is significant in terms of the evolution of business and a technological perspective. It also allows Robopac to share its expertise among start-ups and SMEs, which represent 95% of the industrial network in Italy, fully reflecting the standards of an open innovation approach.

PHARMA FOCUS: VACCINE MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION

Smart isolator technology for aseptic processes

If you are looking for a cost-effective isolator that offers complete protection during filling and sealing processes, the new Intiso from Metall+Plastic may meet your needs. It promises extreme safety, integrated temperature control and a modular design without the hefty outlay.

W

hat sets the new isolator design apart is the elimination of an HVAC unit and the relocation of the cooling and ventilation units from the technical floor to the isolator plenum.

Its modular design is another innovation that contributes to cost savings, with pharmaceutical safety remaining unchanged at a high level.

In the Intiso, key isolator functions are relocated to the isolator plenum. Previously, the ventilation and cooling units were always positioned on the technical floor, but now they are compact and can be easily accessed above the manipulation unit. This eliminates the need for the large HVAC unit which is installed on the mechanical floor in conventional isolators and which require extensive pipework.

Did you know?

The highly-efficient DecoPulse decontamination system designed by Metall+Plastic is integrated into the Intiso isolator. For standard applications, the new Intiso is just as safe as customer-specific versions, but it is more cost-effective and can be made available much faster.

This is why Metall+Plastic is expecting the Intiso to become a preferred model for standard applications.

Metall+Plastic’s Intiso isolator is a leading containment solution for standard pharmaceutical applications

INTEGRATED TEMPERATURE CONTROL

" The simplified installation and modular design make the Intiso a costeffective isolator" The new Intiso isolator has integrated ventilation and cooling technology

Metall+Plastic’s new isolator draws in preconditioned air from the cleanroom, making this isolator design suitable for standard applications. What differentiates the Intiso from similar concepts on the market is its temperature control system. A temperature adjustment of around +/- 6°C can be carried out on a cooling unit which is integrated into the isolator plenum. In

practice, this is used to offset waste heat from fans or other isolator components, for example. This enables constant temperature conditions to be generated regardless of batch sizes.

With its integrated cooling and ventilation technology, the new isolator can also compensate for temperature fluctuations occurring in the cleanroom.

MODULAR DESIGN PROMOTES FLEXIBILITY The simplified installation and modular design make the Intiso a cost-effective isolator. In fact, the modular design is another special feature implemented by Metall+Plastic. The isolator specialist used an adaptable system for the manipulation unit with pre-engineered frames. This ensures the system remains flexible and can be customised to meet customers’ requirements, while the connection to filling and closing machines is unaffected.

Part of the Optima Group, Metall+Plastic is a global leader in the design, manufacture, installation, qualification and validation of isolators. Its isolators are in use in pharmaceutical and biotech plants worldwide and can be integrated into any type of pharmaceutical processing units, for the filling of aseptic liquids or powders. They can also be used in conjunction with an MTC air lock, e-beam tunnel, sterilisation tunnel, lyophiliser, autoclave and other aseptic processing systems. •

Metall+Plastic – www.metall-plastic.com

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2020/21 P&C Review and Symrise

P&C Review and Symrise are unveiling a re-energised New Product Competition that is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry.

The 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition will now be judged according to the following market segments: • Mass/Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label The entries scoring the highest in each of the three segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.

Who is eligible to enter: • Local and international personal care, hair care, skin care, beauty and cosmetics brands, whose products are available in South Africa.

• Brand owners, private label or house brands, manufacturers, retailers or distributors who have launched new products between 1 January 2019 and May 2021.

review Pharmaceutical & & Cosmetic

All entries will receive confidential reports with extensive feedback from our panel of expert judges, who collectively hold over 100 years’ experience in their respective fields. Each product/range entered into the 2020/21 New Product Competition will be judged on the following criteria: • Formulation design • Regulatory compliance • Packaging • Marketing incorporating social media and digital campaigns.

Entries are now open and will close on 1 June 2021.

For more information or to enter, contact Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review on 071 359 4519 or send an email to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za. www.pharmacos.co.za

PHARMA FOCUS: VACCINE MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION

Smart packaging increases vaccine transportation safety In the next few years, it is predicted the global demand for vaccines will be around 15bn doses. Traditional cold chain infrastructure cannot sustain both the existing need for temperature-controlled logistics and the surge caused by the requirement for COVID-19 vaccines. To provide a sustainable solution, Sofrigam and Logmore joined forces to create smart temperature-controlled packaging.

S

ince the first batch of the soughtafter vaccines were released in late December 2020, their transportation and distribution have caused significant challenges. The complex requirements of these highly temperature-sensitive pharmaceutical products have resulted in inevitable product loss (temperature-controlled vaccines cause regular waste), as authorities from the United States to India reported unexpectedly high numbers of spoiled vaccines. They weren’t alone, as public and private organisations worldwide have also been struggling with lost doses of COVID-19 vaccines.

The partnership between Sofrigam and Logmore is proving instrumental in saving these vaccines from spoiling. The new smart temperature-controlled packaging – qualified

by Sofrigam – integrates Logmore data loggers, which are built around QR code tags. QR code technology was invented in Japan and has been used for contactless payment for years.

In terms of the packaging, the QR code tags measure temperature, humidity, light, shocks and tilt. Each new measurement refreshes the QR code to embed the data. Users simply scan the QR code with any smart device to upload collected data to the Logmore web-based cloud service. This service also ensures users can access all the vital information they require within seconds.

A SMART SOLUTION FOR SAFER TRANSPORTATION Global cold chain infrastructure could hardly support the volume of vaccine deployment at the end of 2020. This is despite substantial investments by organisations throughout the cold chain and logistics spectrum in meeting this critical moment for present and future vaccine

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Any smart device can be used to scan the QR code to upload collected data to the Logmore web-based cloud service

deployment. In addition to distributing vaccines, these organisations have to sustain the usual cold chain demand from transporting food, chemicals and other pharmaceutical products.

“The volume is unprecedented. To achieve global herd immunity, the world needs at least 15bn doses of vaccines. That would be in an ideal world without any vaccines wasted at all.

This makes it absolutely crucial to minimise the amount of waste,” says Erik Lehikoinen, Logmore’s global SVP of sales, who has a background in container logistics.

The Logmore monitoring technology integrated into the Sofrigam insulated shipping packaging solution enables the temperature of the payload to be analysed without exposing

the inside of the packaging to the outside environment. This is ideal for vaccine deliveries.

Laurence Labranque, Sofrigam’s VP, who has extensive experience in last-mile cold chain needs, adds: “Partnering with Logmore is

Did you know?

80% of the logistics costs borne by pharma companies for shipping products under the cold chain are hidden costs.

20% of pharma products are damaged during transport through a rupture in the cold chain. €35bn in medicines are lost annually due to temperature excursions during transport. Source: www.sofrigam.com

PHARMA FOCUS: VACCINE MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION

"To achieve global herd immunity, the world needs at least 15bn doses of vaccines" Logmore data loggers, which are built around QR code tags

Sofrigam’s temperature-controlled packaging is used to transport pharmaceutical and medical products

DHL CHOOSES LOGMORE To secure more than 7 mn doses of COVID-19 vaccines, DHL has partnered with Logmore. The agreement commenced in March 2021 and involves the monitoring of vaccine temperatures in Europe.

Over the coming months, the partnership will expand in volume to cover all continents and will continue throughout the European summer as Logmore expects to secure more DHL shipments of COVID-19 vaccines.

As a shipment data platform, Logmore integrates seamlessly with the DHL SmartSensor service.

The new service package cares for shipment conditions every step of the way and provides fleet management teams access to analytics. At the same time, endusers and employees are able to verify the correct handling of the shipment at package-level, throughout its journey.

The lessons learned from recent struggles in distributing vaccines as well as the investments made in cold chain infrastructure will carry the global logistics industry far into the future. The newly-built systems and processes allow for different freight types and volumes. Notable changes to existing infrastructure include the modification of commercial passenger jets to include more freight storage.

the logical continuation of our promise to customers and the end-user. Our mission is to offer stakeholders within the medical and healthcare sector peace of mind regarding

The DHL COVAX packages unloaded from the airplane are fitted with Logmore data loggers to monitor vaccine temperatures

vaccine efficacy while meeting global demands for COVID-19 vaccination initiatives.”

SPECIALISTS COMBINE THEIR EXPERTISE Shipment condition monitoring, such as temperature monitoring of pharmaceuticals and food, is crucial for global logistics and to prevent regular and significant medication wastage.

With its headquarters in Europe and the United States, Sofrigam is a veteran business specialising in the development of qualified pharmaceutical transport offerings. Its operations are centred on building solutions to minimise medical waste.

Logmore is a logistics data company based in Helsinki, Finland, which provides condition and quality monitoring solutions fit for all supply chains, through the use of small, cost-efficient QR data loggers and a cloud service. The loggers are fitted with an external temperature probe, which has been

proven efficient for monitoring vaccines shipped in deep-freeze temperatures.

The Finnish company’s QR data logging service has been adopted by the quality management teams of more than 150 enterprises worldwide. Unlike competing bluetooth or USB solutions, this service does not require any specific technology from recipients and can be used in airborne supply chains, making it a truly end-to-end solution.

“This is one more step towards returning to a normal daily life that we all are waiting for. Our shared goal is to secure as many doses of COVID-19 vaccines to be delivered safely to their final destinations. With the DHL partnership and other upcoming ones, we get to secure maybe even hundreds of shipments of doses,” highlights Niko Polvinen, Logmore CEO. •

Logmore – www.logmore.com Sofrigam – www.sofrigam.com

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PHARMA FOCUS: VACCINE MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION

A local asset for missioncritical vaccine distribution

Playing its part in helping the world find solutions to overcome the COVID-19 pandemic, Renergen has developed Cryo-Vacc. This is an innovative and validated cold storage solution for global logistics providers who are responsible for the safe transportation of biologics and vaccines to the last mile.

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harmaceutical manufacturers have unique complex supply chain requirements, particularly in the delivery of biologics and vaccines.

These temperature-sensitive products require a number of handoffs between the manufacturing site, storage depots and on various modes of transport to reach their ultimate destination.

To meet these needs, Cryo-Vacc was designed and patented by Renergen, a domestic natural gas and helium producer based in Johannesburg. It ensures the efficient transportation and safe storage of ultra-cold biologics for periods of up to 35 days or longer in transit, where there is no access to an external power source.

Cryo-Vacc has a range of temperature settings, including -70°C, -20 °C and 2°C to 8°C, making it highly versatile for distributing vaccines. It is fitted with a system for constant remote temperature monitoring with alarm functionality, notifying the customer on their mobile and desktop of any temperature excursions beyond the defined boundaries of a product. The system also provides GPS location updates on the whereabouts of a case.

Cryo-Vacc is suitable for air and road freight.

Liquid nitrogen is used in the cases for road freight while helium is used for air freight. The helium offers additional benefits in that it is only a fraction of the weight of dry-ice, which significantly reduces air freight costs when used in Cryo-Vacc cases. Helium can also accommodate up to 12 times more vials per flight compared to other cryogens based on current flight safety regulations.

A LIFE-SAVING PARTNERSHIP Renergen has teamed up with local express courier partner, DPD Laser in light of the tender recently released by the National Department of

Did you know?

Cryo-Vacc validation in anticipated deployment situations has been completed. Renergen has also commenced discussions for the sale of Cryo-Vacc units to logistics companies operating outside of the SADC region.

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Cryo-Vacc ensures the efficient transportation and safe storage of ultra-cold biologics, including COVID-19 vaccines

KEY FEATURES AND BENEFITS OF CRYO-VACC • patented design in application • powered by helium or nitrogen • constructed from aluminium • durable and safe • light enough to pick up and transport • accommodates a minimum of 1 170 doses • adjustable temperature from -70°C to 8°C • reduces the number handoffs from the manufacturing stage to final delivery • protects biologics and vaccines from light exposure • lockable carrycase • accommodates a 35-day transportation period for biologics and vaccines without any effect on temperature • the application does not use dry ice, which is a greenhouse gas, making it environmentally friendly.

Health for the distribution of COVID-19 vaccines in South Africa.

DPD Laser is part of The Laser Group and is known for its last mile courier express capabilities and infrastructure throughout South Africa.

"Every Renergen team member is truly proud to be associated with such an innovative product" Anton Visagie, CEO of DPD Laser, comments: “DPD Laser has been proudly serving South Africa for over 30 years, and we are excited to bring our extensive coverage and best-in-breed, technologydriven delivery services to enable missioncritical vaccine distribution using Cryo-Vacc.”

Renergen CEO, Stefano Marani adds: “Precise temperature control combined with a formidable hold time in transit make Cryo-Vacc a compelling asset in the transportation of biologics, especially in the developing world. With a useful temperature range of over 150°C, CryoVacc is very versatile even when compared to standard refrigeration technology. Every Renergen team member is truly proud to be associated with such an innovative product and we hope that Cryo-Vacc helps to save many lives and to restore some normality as the world builds herd immunity.” •

Renergen – www.renergen.co.za

PHARMA FOCUS: VACCINE MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION

Automated inspection vital to accelerate vaccine delivery With the COVID-19 pandemic, pharmaceutical manufacturers are under intense pressure to produce and distribute large quantities of vials and vaccines. TracePack has a range of solutions for vaccine manufacturing and distribution, including labelling systems specifically developed to label vials. Its machine vision and barcode reading systems are well suited to vaccine inspection, packaging and traceability.

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he compact 4.0 enveloping industrial automatic labelling system for wraparound applications on ampoules, vials, test tubes, syringes, single doses, blow fill seals and all cylindrical pharmaceutical products has been designed to be used both offline and inline. For offline application, it is suitable even with the addition of a rotary table. When used inline, the labelling system can be connected to other packaging machines, such as fillers, working at a speed from 10 to 300 pieces per minute.

This system is part of the Arca Pharma line of labelling machines, which is a specific line designed and dedicated to the labelling, coding, traceability and serialisation of pharmaceutical products. High standards of quality, safety, productivity and accessibility are guaranteed and provided by these lines. For product traceability, the labelling system can be integrated with an inkjet or laser marker.

TECHNOLOGY TO AUTOMATE INSPECTION To keep pace with rising global healthcare demands, pharma manufacturers rely on machine vision, deep learning and industrial barcode reading systems to automate vaccine packaging inspection, tracking and distribution. Whether supplying vaccines for immunisations, epidemics, or pandemics, solutions from TracePack help manufacturers comply with strict regulations while ensuring safe, fast and reliable delivery.

Vaccine manufacturers need to perfrom meticulous checks of dosage containers to avoid defective products from entering the distribution chain. As a result, vial, ampoule and prefilled syringe packaging must also be inspected for accuracy. Missing components or packaging defects can affect patient safety and brand reputation and may result in heavy fines, unwanted waste and costly recalls.

With inspection technology from TracePack, pharma manufcaturers can

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Did you know?

The DataMan fixed-mount barcode readers decipher 1D and 2D codes as small as 3mm on medical devices to track and trace these products and help combat counterfeits. DataMan barcode verifiers also offer true ISO-compliant, inline or offline vaccine barcode verification and generate detailed reports for traceability, compliance and preventive maintenance.

confirm vaccine boxes and kits are correctly packaged and compliant with strict regulations. The track-and-trace technology also helps to ensure supply chain visibility to guarantee machine uptime, high read rates and fast delivery.

The 4.0 wrap-around industrial automatic labelling system from Arca Pharma

THE BENEFITS OF DEEP LEARNING Machine vision and deep learning systems inspect the presence of cracks, particulates, proper assembly and other potential defects during the primary packaging process. They also identify problems upstream which helps to keep patients safe and avoid costly recalls and returns.

Vial caps are inspected using machine vision and deep learning to check for scratches, punctures and other defects.

This also improves product quality, minimises scrap and increases throughput.

Deep learning inspects the body of vials and ampoules for imperfections such as scratches, bubbles and any inclusion that could cause contamination or a breach of sterility. This technology also identifies unwanted particulate matter in glass vials and ampoules to prevent contaminated products from reaching consumers.

Deep learning eliminates count-related deviations of vials and ampoules, preventing time-consuming and expensive rework resulting from miscounts. At the same time, it inspects vaccine kits for overlapping or missing parts and ensures the correct parts

TracePack offers automated technology for particulate inspection of vials and ampoules

Barcode inspection technology from TracePack verifies the quality of required elements on packaging, such as logos, date/lot information

are present and in the right orientation. Deep learning can also be used to read printed information on packaging and to verify the quality of required elements such as logos, date/lot information and other graphics. •

TracePack – www.tracepack.co.za

PHARMA FOCUS: VACCINE MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION

First lipids delivered to BioNTech in record time

Evonik is helping to accelerate the production of the COVID-19 vaccine at Pfizer-BioNTech by suppling an essential component in record time. As one of the world’s leading speciality chemical companies, Evonik delivered the first batches of the urgently-needed lipids for the mRNA-based vaccine months earlier than planned.

S

pecialists at Evonik’s Hanau site in Germany set up the lipid production in just eight weeks,

meeting the high-quality requirements for the component. Initially, delivery was scheduled to start in the middle of the year – but the company surpassed this requirement.

“Setting up production at this speed is a great achievement,” says Christian Kullmann, chairman of Evonik’s executive board. “Increasing lipid production in Germany will also allow us to further accelerate the manufacturing of larger quantities of the vaccine. In this way, we are contributing to the fight against the pandemic.”

INNOVATIVE DELIVERY SYSTEM As part of its strategic partnership with BioNTech, Evonik produces two different lipids for the Pfizer-BioNTech COVID-19 vaccine. Together with other lipids, they encapsulate to form a lipid nanoparticle (LNP), which serves as a protective shell around the mRNA to transport it safely into the cell. There, the mRNA is released to allow the vaccine to take effect.

"This is a complex production process that only a few in the world can master"

“This is a complex production process that only a few in the world can master,” says Dr Thomas Riermeier, head of Evonik’s Health Care business line.

“We’re demonstrating once more that Evonik is a superior and reliable partner for the pharmaceutical industry, far beyond COVID-19.”

Lipid production at Evonik’s Hanau site in Germany

A LEADING BUSINESS UNIT WITHIN THE COMPANY Evonik’s Health Care business line has been characterised by strong growth and high innovation power for many years.

Across the entire value chain, health care assumes a leading position as an integrated solutions provider for the pharmaceutical industry. This includes the marketing of special pharmaceutical excipients such as lipids, the development of formulations with a combination of excipients and active ingredients, and the production of clinical test samples and commercial quantities. •

Evonik – corporate.evonik.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2021

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PHARMA FOCUS: VACCINE MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION

Integrated solutions for

sterilisation, freeze-drying and cold storage

Growth in vaccines production, including the SARS-COV-2 vaccine, is fuelling the increased need for sterilisation facilities to manufacture single use medical devices such as plastic syringes. To meet the demand, Telstar has expanded its engineering and manufacturing capacity in process systems, which integrate sterilisation, containment and lyophilisation technologies.

TELSTAR LYOBETA – A SMALL-SCALE SOLUTION Specifically designed for labscale formulation, research and development work, the latest LyoBeta innovation developed by Telstar sees the integration of a mobile app which tracks temperature and pressure parameters in real-time, enabling any freeze-drying process parameter or alarm to be monitored remotely.

Telstar has increased its software and controls engineering team as well as established a new 4 500m2 assembly and testing area in line with the growing demand for ethylene oxide sterilisation systems

T

o face the next mediumterm phase in the rollout of global COVID-19 vaccination programmes, Telstar has strengthened the development of its freeze-drying systems for the manufacturing of vaccines under lyophilised form to guarantee their complete and safe distribution.

The company’s end-to-end engineering and GMP services are highly specialised. Its integrated solutions cover all phases of vaccine manufacturing, from the development of process equipment and integrated solutions in isolation technology systems to sterilisation and freezedrying applications.

Its solid, multidisciplinary team consists of experts in cGMP pharma production processes, cleanroom

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MAY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

installations and critical utilities, working alongside customers to provide a comprehensive service throughout the project life cycle.

Experienced in turnkey integrated projects for complete pharma manufacturing and process critical installations, Telstar has led numerous complex and unique projects designed to guarantee aseptic and efficient production processes in pharmaceutical and life sciences environments.

NEW AND IMPROVED UPRIGHT FREEZERS Telstar has reinforced the production of Boreas, its -80°C ultra-lowtemperature freezer, to meet vaccine manufacturers’ immediate and increased needs for robust cold chain infrastructure. The company will also

This small-scale solution offers flexibility and performance within the compact footprint often required by laboratories. Its advanced process control features include a PLC-based control system, enhanced control and programming capabilities and management software. These features are said to make LyoBeta the most complete, efficient and convenient pilot unit on the market. double its production of the latest generation of ultra-low-temperature freezers, which comply with the stringent storage requirements set out to protect the integrity of vaccines – not only in the healthcare sector but also in logistics and transport processes.

Boreas has been designed to increase the average performance by 20%. An innovative mechanical design enhances its robustness, efficiency and ergonomics as well as ensures the integrity of the cold preservation process. Equipped with vacuum panels, the freezer guarantees the highest level of thermal insulation and maintains a temperature of -80°C with ambient temperatures up to 28°C.

PHARMA FOCUS: VACCINE MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION

"Telstar has played an active role in the development of smart solutions for the field of process analytical technology" Lyogistics Smart R3 is the new automated in-line vial management device equipped to reject, reintroduce and retrieve vials during the loading and unloading processes into pharmaceutical freeze-dryers.

Telstar Lyosensing is a versatile process Telstar Consultancy specialises in GMP regulatory compliance, providing a comprehensive service that encompasses the entire life cycle of a pharmaceutical product to ensure it complies with the latest version of the EU GMP Annex 1

Unlike standard freezers designed with panels of polyurethane foam, the storage capacity of Boreas is increased by up to 30% due to its thinner inner VIP insulation. It is also ecological as the freezer has been developed with Telstar’s in-house cold storage technology and uses high-purity natural refrigerant CFC-free gases, which contribute to environmental protection.

INTEGRATED LAB AND ANALYTICAL SOLUTIONS In the context of pharma 4.0 transformation, Telstar has played an active role in the development of smart solutions for the field of process analytical technology.

These innovations also span integrated process equipment and laboratory integrated management systems.

In the field of freeze-drying, Lyogistics Zero is the only automatic vial loading and unloading system for freeze-drying processes which can be cleaned (CIP) and sterilised (SIP) in place, inside the freeze-dryer chamber.

Lyonuc is the nucleation induction method developed by Telstar, suitable for any type of freeze-dryer that reduces the duration of the primary drying cycle and ensures the uniformity and homogenisation of the vials in all batches, respecting the product’s morphology and physiochemical properties.

YOUR VACCINE PRODUCTION PARTNER

analyser developed to monitor the freezedrying cycle and detect and prevent real and virtual leakages in pharma freeze-dryers.

Telstar Lyometrics is an innovative softsensor temperature monitoring system in GMP industrial freeze-dryers with automatic loading/unloading processes.

The system is designed to provide on-line monitoring of the global batch product temperature during primary drying, without the limitations and interferences imposed by physical probes.

Lyomega SV is a new single- vessel GMP production freeze-dryer, optimised to maintain conventional workspace with a footprint that is up to 20% smaller than a lyophiliser with a standard external condenser configuration. •

Telstar – www.telstar.com

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Consultancy

Engineering

Construction

• Vaccine Project business plan development • GAP assessment (Process & Facilities) • New Annex 1 fully compliance (CCS, RA ...)

• Feasibility Studies • QA system implementation

• Project C&Q • Cleanroom qualification (GMP & ISO 14644) • Conceptual Design • Basic & Detail Engineering

• Clean Room Systems • Biosafety Level Areas (BSL) • Freeze Dryer/Sterilization/ Depyrogenation • Integration of the filling line • Biowaste systems • Disinfection systems • Isolator / RABS integration

ANUNCI TELSTAR esp.indd 1

Commissioning & Qualification Validation • Special construction for critical environments with containment requirements • Project Management • Construction Site Supervision • Procurement • Start-up

22/04/2021 9:48:22

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2021

47

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Cosmetic landscape post COVID-19 The Society of Cosmetic Chemists hosted its second online morning seminar over a three-day period from 13 to 15 April. The theme was the Cosmetic landscape post COVID-19 with some great speakers presenting on a broad range of topics.

A

ri Makhari of Anton Paar and Robyn Brown of Stability Testing Services opened the first session with an overview of stability testing and the importance of the various parameters being tested. Makhari showed her work that she has been conducting to determine the stability of products using a rheometer. The aim is to ensure that stability can be determined within a few days versus 12 weeks, which will save a great deal of time to ensure that a product will pass the 12-week stability.

An anecdotal view of trends stemming from the pandemic was presented by Gloria Ford of Carst & Walker. She discussed whether COVID-19 would change our long-term view of personal care products, and if so, how.

Mask wearing has exacerbated existing skin conditions and created new skin concerns for consumers. The wearing of masks has provoked renewed interest in effective skin care products. Skin is the first defence against our external world and is easily affected by friction, humidity and temperature changes – caused by wearing masks daily. The presentation by Marcel van Rooyen of Symrise discussed skin conditions such as maskne, skin dryness, skin sensitivity, skin barrier imbalance as a result of prolonged mask wearing and latest market launches in these areas. She also looked at the new focus areas like the eyes and eyebrows and trendy makeup solutions.

CONSUMER, MARKET AND FORMULATION TRENDS The stress associated with COVID-19 continues to take its toll on consumers’ health

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" We have also seen the rise of e-commerce, with companies that have been quicker to adopt online shopping channels leading the way in this field" and wellbeing. P&C Review editor, Abby Vorster shared a presentation on emotional skin care, which explored the ways in which stress from the pandemic and consumers changing sensory needs are redefining beauty. Her discussion included an overview of Google search trends from 2020, which revealed a 250% increase in searches of the term ‘self-care routine’ and a whopping 2 750% increase in ‘CBD drops for anxiety’ searches, as consumers continue to Google ways in which to address their mental health issues. Vorster’s presentation also touched on new ingredients that deliver sensory benefits in cosmetics and it highlighted some innovative cosmetic products on the market which have unexpected sensory and texture enhancements, like Maybelline’s Lemonade Craze Eyeshadow Palette that is scented with a citrus fragrance.

Renè Spada of Evonik advised that COVID-19 is having a long-term impact on a large portion of the population. With 66%

of consumers reporting that they have been financially impacted through job losses, salary cuts and shorter working hours.

While South Africans are fairly brand loyal, they will trade down if they are no longer able to afford their preferred brands. Value for money is a key driver.

During this time we have also seen the rise of e-commerce, with companies that have been quicker to adopt online shopping channels leading the way in this field. It has also become clear that product overviews by influencers on YouTube, Instagram and TikTok, to name a few, have become key to the success of smaller brands and private labels.

Michèle Lindner of GfN Selco, Germany focused on how the cosmetic landscape will be influenced post COVID-19. Currently and likely also post the pandemic, there is big trend in clean and pure products. Clean products are where the INCI list is kept simple and short, where we have a focus on proven activity, where we care for sensitive skin, take responsibility for the environment and realise the new needs of consumers. Linder showed a number of formulations and concepts to implement the idea of clean products.

Bacteria, fungi and viruses are the major microbial enemies for humans. Corona viruses have been known to humans for many decades but SARS-COV-2, the virus responsible for the COVID-19 pandemic, has imposed significant changes to people’s hygiene habits. A sudden increase in the demand for disinfecting (versus cleansing) products for hands and surface applications with both short- and long-term effects has also influenced the cosmetics industry.

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Although an ordinary soap can kill viruses, we still need to improve the anti-microbiological and moisturising activity of hand wash products. Dr Zdenek Toman of AMB Consulting reviewed the above as well as discussed formulation instability. There are two types of instability: 1. laboratory sample instability 2. production sample instability.

It is important to identify their causes. In laboratory, some examples are given focusing on balance formula, emulsifiers and gels. In the factory, the focus should be on a complete process including temperature control, speed and time of homogenisation as well as the type of homogeniser.

REGULATORY FOCUS, WET WIPES, THE MICROBIOME AND NATURAL COSMETICS Many product owners were forced, due to COVID-19, to adapt their business strategy while including the

manufacturing and marketing of hand sanitisers in their arsenal.

The personal care industry is already fast paced and keeping up with regulations can be challenging, especially for SMMEs. The presentation by Anina van der Walt focused on the current regulatory environment for cosmetic and sanitiser/disinfectant products. Different sanitiser/disinfectant classifications and legislative requirements were also discussed. Sanitisers/disinfectants are classified as either a consumer product, medical device or required to be registered as a medicine based on application surface (human skin or inanimate surface), the environment in which the sanitiser is used (place of use), intended use and function and composition. The temporary regulatory pathway, as announced by the minister of health in anticipation of the alcohol-based hand sanitiser shortage due to COVID-19, used in the clinical environment, has been reviewed.

Responsible manufacturing of quality, safe and efficient cosmetic and personal care products asks of each product owner to partner with or commit to being a regulatory custodian.

Kratisha Soodhin of Acti-Chem focussed on the future of wet wipes. This presentation covered the evolving concept of wet wipes and the impact on market trends to meet consumer demands. Critical points regarding manufacturing, plant hygiene, wipe substrate, liquor formulation, ratio and migration were covered in the presentation, as well as antibacterial actives. Trends towards more a natural substrate composition means that the wet wipes are more susceptible to microbial

contamination directing the development of innovative technology for the preservation system used in the wet wipe to ensure that the consumer does not receive a microbiallycompromised product.

The skin microbiota acts as a protective day cream on our skin. It provides hydration, anti-ageing and sun protection. When this microbiota is excessively stressed by pollution, aggressive ingredients such as preservatives, ethanol or surfactants, it no longer has the ability to protect the skin.

An easy and effective way to support the skin microbiota is the use of the prebiotic inulin. Patrick Gonry of Gobiotics in The Netherlands highlighted that inulin is power food for the protective skin microbiota, so that it can cope better with all stress factors.

Natural and organic cosmetics answer to consumers raising awareness of safe, sustainable and transparent products.

The natural and organic cosmetic market is developing within the trends of the entire cosmetics industry to move more towards biodiversity preservation, circular economy development and climate change impact reduction.

The COSMOS certification by Ecocert covers the entire lifecycle of cosmetic product development, from ingredients, formulas, packaging and labelling to manufacturing processes and traceability.

Based on a documentary review and an onsite audit, the certification is a trust tool between brands and consumers which ensures a real commitment for sustainable practices. A comprehensive overview on Ecocert was presented by Pauline Rafaitin of Ecocert, France. •

Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA////APRIL MAY 2021

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Tea

time Take a breather

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6. Composition (5)

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12. Lacking taste (5)

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To advertise in

contact

Anita Raath

Carla Melless

Sales executive

Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

+27 (0)83 260 6060

www.pharmacos.co.za

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

50

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MAY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ONLINE

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ website will find information on membership, educational programmes (specific details pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the personal care industry.

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

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accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Phone: +27 (0) 11 661 7914 Cell: +27 (0) 81 399 9737 E-mail: peter.moopeloa@bureauveritas.com

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FORMPAK For over 50 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical,

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QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications.

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