Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review May 2022 by New Media B2B

MAY 2022 Volume 49 | Number 5

years www.pharmacos.co.za

Africa welcomes first locallydeveloped mRNA Covid vaccine Collagen – the ultimate ingredient for healthy ageing Is lutein the next new ‘vitamin’?

Sustainable emollients Enhance the sensory and functional benefits of cosmetics

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May 2022

Contents

years

Volume 49 | Number 5 www.pharmacos.co.za

36 Association News

Plastics SA honours water warriors Coschem lecture focuses on the power of effective packaging

22 6 News

34 16 Pharma Focus: Vaccine Manufacturing & Distribution

22 Well-Ageing / Pro-Ageing

The role of water banks in fighting Covid-19

Collagen – the ultimate ingredient for healthy ageing

Used Sani-touch wipes repurposed into playground equipment

Africa welcomes first locally-developed mRNA Covid vaccine

Shifting the needle from antiageing to pro-ageing

10 Personal Care

Demand for vaccine packaging lines drives Marchesini’s growth

Berry dispenser delivers on sustainability and versatility Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients wins four BSB Innovation Awards

Seppic’s new ingredient for sustainable formulas

Mineral salts – an indispensable part of vaccines

An extraordinary molecule to scavenge all radicals

Get instant gratification from innovative actives

30 Blue Light Protection

Carbocraft brings Düllberg Konzentra’s solutions to SA

Is lutein the next new ‘vitamin’?

Consumer trends and regulatory compliance

Provide powerful protection with InfraGuard

34 Industry Talk

On the cover Ingredients to meet consumers’ needs for sustainable formulas and product personalisation

Workable solutions to mitigate SA’s energy crisis

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

FROM THE EDITOR

The team EDITORIAL

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti

It’s time to invest in healthy ageing

geing as a concept has changed drastically. Nowadays, the 60+ generation ages differently than previous generations did. They start businesses, run marathons and travel widely, thanks to their increased longevity and substantial wealth. There is also scientific evidence that suggests people get happier as they get older. While there are differing theories as to why this is, according to a Nielsen report on baby boomers, most agree it is an acceptance of ageing that promotes contentedness. This acceptance of ageing and the acceleration of the self-care and wellness trends have totally reshaped the anti-ageing category. With this in mind, Well-Ageing/Pro-Ageing is introduced as a central theme in this edition of Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. Check out the content from page 22 onwards which showcases ingredients and formulation technologies to support the needs of ageing skin in a grounded and realistic way. Personalisation and sustainability are key themes in our personal care feature. To highlight the launch of a new sustainable emollient from Seppic, CJP Chemicals is featured on the cover this month. Turn to page 10 for more on this and Seppic’s cosmetic mixology formulas, introduced to meet consumers’ product personalisation needs in the beauty category.

Two years into the pandemic, Covid-19 continues to impact our lives and the health and safety of those around us. The pandemic has also magnified the need for locally-produced vaccines to meet Africa’s healthcare demands – a topic which we discuss in detail in our pharma focus on vaccine manufacturing and distribution. Turn to page 16 to read about the new water tanks installed at Aspen Pharmacare for vaccine manufacturing and Labotec’s strategic partnership with Afrigen and Thermo Fisher Scientific to produce the first African-developed mRNA Covid-19 vaccine. We also explore active ingredients and formulation technologies with blue light protection benefits and how to incorporate these into essential skin care and nutraceutical products. Turn to page 30 to find out more about these ingredients. Keep warm, stay healthy and enjoy the read!

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

NEWS

Innovative supramolecular calcium for barrier repair The loss of the skin’s calcium gradient is a key driver of barrier disruption and skin ageing. Therefore, replenishing the skin’s calcium stores may be a way of combatting the ageing barrier dysfunction. EpiCalsome from Mibele Biochemistry is a new superior calcium delivery system that protects and renews the skin. The novel technology encapsulates calcium ions with phospholipids of the highest quality, which makes calcium optimally bioavailable to the skin. Available locally from Carst & Walker, EpiCalsome represents

The immense benefits of the Wave2cc dispenser make it both an ideal and multifunctional solution that can be used across entire product ranges, significantly simplifying supply chains and providing economies of scale

Berry dispenser delivers on sustainability and versatility

an innovative double cone vector system that encapsulates calcium for a simple and efficient delivery of bioavailable calcium to the skin

Berry Global has become one of

available containing up to 70% post-

(patent-pending application).

the first packaging manufacturers

consumer recycled (PCR) material.

The benefits of EpiCalsome include:

to develop a recyclable lock-up 2cc

The Wave2cc dispenser offers

• replenished calcium levels in aged skin

dispenser. The new Berry Wave2cc

excellent flexibility and adaptability

• protection and repair of damaged skin

meets market demands for a more

for manufacturers, together with

• faster skin recovery

sustainable version of the popular

many user-friendly benefits for

• fortification of delicate skin

pump format that is widely used for

end-consumers. In particular, for the

• prevention of skin dryness and irritation.

a variety of personal care products

growing personal care e-commerce

including liquid soaps, body lotions,

market, the strength of its

body milks, shampoos, conditioners

construction has achieved the ISTA6

and hair treatments.

certification when combined with

Mibele Biochemistry’s EpiCalsome promises to protect and renew ageing skin

The 2cc size is the first in

Berry’s wide range of stock bottles in

Berry’s new Wave atmospheric

200mℓ, 250mℓ, 500mℓ and 1ℓ sizes.

dispenser platform, with 3cc, 4cc

means it is able to handle even

in the future. In the coming years,

the most viscous formulations,

the company expects to invest

such as hair conditioners, to

Biomimetic peptide launched to protect fourth layer of skin

over $100m in manufacturing

ensure consistent, reliable and

capabilities throughout its global

accurate dosing of all product

operations to provide localised

types. In addition, the dispenser

supply to meet the identified

is showerproof.

New from Sederma, BB-Biont is a biomimetic peptide to smooth

demand from both national and

the appearance of pockmarks, offering a gentle topical alternative

international customers. Jean-Marc Galvez, president,

body with its microbiome is more than a symbiotic system. It creates

consumer packaging international

compared to the 12 to 14

a supra-organism called holobiont. Each injury in the skin generates

division at Berry Global, said:

components that are typically

an imbalance in the microbiome and vice versa.

“Circular innovation plays a

found in other versions. A user-friendly benefit of the Wave2cc is the dispenser’s locking

solutions our customers demand.

system which has the ability to

We are proud of our new Wave

operate in both clockwise and anti-

global platform. Our significant

clockwise directions. This provides

investment will sustain our global

added convenience for consumers

helps to naturally achieve a flawless skin appearance.

leadership in circular dispensers

while giving the dispenser

Tested on two independent mixed panels, 1% BB-Biont

meeting local needs across our

greater flexibility in meeting the

global manufacturing footprint.”

requirements of different filling lines.

acnes and deconstructs its biofilm to avoid inflammatory skin damage. It also preserves microbiome biodiversity to promote healthy skin. Day 0

fundamental role in delivering the

of components to just eight,

sustainable and versatile dispensing

microbiome. It selectively slows down the growth of Cutibacterium

BB-Biont bans the cutaneous blemishes and

significantly reduced the volume of pockmarks (18.9%

1% BB-Biont significantly reduced the volume of / placebo, p<0.01) and skin roughness (6.5% / placebo, pockmarks

The Berry Wave2cc is made from

The flexible design also means it

100% polyolefin, with no metal

can be adapted to different actuator

parts, which makes the dispenser

styles and closure sizes to enable

recyclable when paired with a PET

customers to satisfy individual

All the results of the clinical studies, as well as in

bottle where appropriate facilities

branding requirements.

vitro studies, are available upon request through your

exist. This has gained the Wave2cc

The new dispenser will be

sales representative.

a RecyClass A rating. It will also be

available from the end of 2022.

p<0.01) after two months of application.

IECIC and RSPO compliant, BB-Biont is water soluble and recommended for use at 1%.

Through innovative design, Berry has reduced the number

to aesthetic medicine. The intimate relationship between the human

This is the reason why BB-Biont protects the fourth skin layer, the

2 Months

The robust design of the Wave2cc

and 0.25mℓ versions to be launched

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

NEWS

Venator launches new cosmetic pigments Innovating throughout the pandemic,

Hombitan AC301 pigment is a new, low nano,

Responding to the need to reduce the

Venator’s cosmetics team has developed a

amphiphilic, multipurpose TiO2 grade, which is

nickel content in formulations – which can

new titanium dioxide pigment that falls well

suitable for customised applications in high-end

sometimes cause skin irritation – Venator has

within current thresholds for nanoparticles.

coloured cosmetics. Created using Venator’s

also developed four new products that meet

The business has also created a range of iron

enhanced crystal size-controlled technology,

the European Regulation 231/2012 for nickel:

oxide pigments with low nickel content. The

Hombitan AC301 pigment has a scientifically

• Ferroxide 212PN (red iron oxide)

new products were launched at in-cosmetics

confirmed nano particle fraction of less than 10%

• Ferroxide 510PN (yellow iron oxide)

global in Paris, France.

by number – meaning formulators can use it with

• Ferroxide 80PN and 81PN (black iron

confidence while meeting

oxide pigments).

labelling requirements. Easily

Reiner Mertscheit, senior commercial

incorporated into different

director, specialties at Venator, said:

kinds of formulations –

“Our latest products demonstrate our

including oil in water and

commitment to making pigments and

water in oil-based solutions

additives that cosmetic and beauty brands

– the pigment is ideal for use

can rely on long term. With our cosmetics

in foundations, natural and

experts using their know-how to push our

mineral cosmetics, CC and DD

technical capabilities, our customers can

creams, eyeshadows, lipsticks

formulate with greater confidence over the

and pressed powders.

long term.”

Venator’s Hombitan AC301 pigment is ideal for use in concealers and foundations

Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients wins four BSB Innovation Awards Emphasising its position as one of the innovation

“We feel thrilled to have won four prizes

continue developing high-quality, powerful

leaders in the industry, Symrise Cosmetic

at this year’s BSB Innovation Awards further

and innovative products for our customers.”

Ingredients won four prizes in various categories

highlighting our commitment to innovation

The independent consulting agency BSB

at the European BSB Innovation Awards 2022.

and sustainability,” explains Jörn Andreas,

has presented the industry leading European

president of cosmetic ingredients at Symrise.

BSB Innovation Awards since 2003. The

SymHair Thermo received first prize for the Most Innovative Natural Product in Hair Care.

“This demonstrates great recognition

awards celebrate expertise and innovation

In the category Applied Concepts, the new

for our global teams from R&D to product

in the world of cosmetics. Over the years,

sustainability digital app Track4Trust won first

development across our business in hair

many ingredients from the Symrise

prize for its innovative design to track and trace

care, micro-protection, skin actives and

Cosmetic Ingredient product portfolio have

ingredients in the sourcing process. The 100%

sustainability. This award inspires us to

received awards from BSB.

bio-based cosmetic functional, Hydrolite 7 green won second prize in the Functionals category. SymFerment won third prize in Actives in the Plumping, Moisturiation and Barrier category. These awards demonstrate the leading position of Symrise in the development of sustainable cosmetic ingredients.

Food and beverage, chemical, medical, electrical, cosmetics & We are proud to announce that we now offer textiles. full colour digital printed labels for 010 007 2350 | www.printalabel.co.za | sales@printalabel.co.za the following applications;

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

NEWS

Used Sani-touch wipes repurposed into 100% recycled playground equipment

As the first retailer to recycle Sani-touch’s

into a brand-new product, creating a

sanitising wipes, Shoprite is closing the loop

virtuous circle.

and creating a circular economy. According to Annette Devenish,

Made from its recycled wipes, the jungle gym donated to Qedusizi Day Care Centre

marketing director of Sani-touch, this is the

was manufactured by Hudson Diphofa (33),

culmination of a long journey to ensure that

an entrepreneur who operates his business

its used wipes are recycled.

from his home in Katlehong. Having worked

“Creating a circular economy is about

in the sustainable manufacturing field for

more than just sending products to

more than five years, Diphofa established

recyclers. Although recyclers are an

the Structural Poly Plastic Furniture &

important part of the process, the reality is

Project in 2020 after he was retrenched due

that they are only part of the process. Our

of the Covid-19 pandemic. His business uses

goal is to ensure that Sani-touch’s wipes

recycled material to manufacture outdoor

don’t end up in landfill but instead get

furniture products.

<Caption> The new US facility is due to open in the second half of 2022 and will house Roquette Pharmaceutical Solutions’ headquarters Qedusizi Day Care Centre is the beneficiary of first eco-friendly jungle gym made from recycled Sani-touch wipes

THE

Buyer’sguide

recycled and manufactured into a bench,

Sanjeev Raghubir, sustainability manager,

jungle gym or pallet that can be used over

Shoprite Group, says: “This innovative

and over again,” says Devenish.

initiative is a wonderful example of how

Locally-sourced polypropylene, the

recycling has the power to breathe new

material used to manufacture Sani-touch

life into old things and to help protect our

wipes, is 100% recyclable. This means that,

environment. While the initiative significantly

if necessary, the wipes can be recycled

reduces waste, it facilitates a circular

many times, each time being remoulded

economy by using recycled single-use wipes

to create durable and reusable jungle gyms, benches and other outdoor furniture.”

Businesses can no longer to afford to pay

only lip service to the concept of recycling or wait for legislation to apply to them. “We all have to step up and play our

part to ensure that used products are

2017/2018

recycled, repurposed and become part

of a sustainable system. Together we can

make a difference to create a better world,” Devenish adds.

THE

Buyer’sguide

2021/2022 2020/2021

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za 8

Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1

Untitled-2 1 MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

2018/05/07 3:09 PM 2022/05/04 15:19

DIARY

What’s on in 2022 June Analytica 21 to 24 June Munich, Germany www.analytica.de/en 2022 World Perfumery Congress 29 June to 1 July Miami, Florida www.worldperfumerycongress.com

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PERSONAL CARE

Ingredients to meet consumers’ needs for

sustainable formulas and product personalisation Many brands are going full steam ahead with their sustainability efforts while increasing their focus to champion personalisation in beauty care applications. With the new launches from Seppic, represented locally by CJP Chemicals, formulators can address consumers’ needs for customisation and sustainability at the same time.

fter many years of research and conscious innovation, Seppic has launched EmogreenTM HP 40. The introduction of this sustainable and biobased emollient comes at a significant time when the sustainability profile and performance of ingredients are increasingly being challenged. Emogreen HP 40 is a versatile texturising ingredient, which is highly compatible in formulation design. This newcomer from Seppic extends the sustainable Emogreen range of emollients. Obtained using a patented process, Emogreen HP 40 is a textured and slightly viscous emollient. It offers an effective and sustainable alternative to heavy silicones, mineral oils and other synthetic emollients. Emogreen HP 40 is 100% plant-based, patented and inherently biodegradable, offering brands and manufacturers a formulation technology with a more virtuous environmental footprint. It imparts film-forming properties with a smooth enveloping and supple after-feel and no tacky effect. This outstanding multifaceted capacity will significantly enhance the efficacy and preferred performance of any type of cosmetic application, from skin care and makeup to sun care etc.

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

EXCITING THERMAL PROTECTION PERFORMANCE The thermal protection performance* of this emollient is something to be acknowledged by brand owners, manufacturers and end-users of hair care products. Emogreen HP 40 offers the same sensory and application benefits of silicones such as dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, but without their greasy and sticky sensation drawbacks. It also helps to preserve the keratin structure of hair during thermal treatment in order to maintain its health and to protect it. The emollient offers additional performance benefits such as anti-frizz, volume control and easy combing – all of which have been demonstrated as a result of the product’s substantivity on the hair fibre and its ability to smoothen hair scales. Check out tables 1 and 2 for formulation inspiration incorporating Emogreen HP 40 into innovative hair care products.

Did you know? Dimethiconol-based mixes have been widely used in hair care products to improve hair’s appearance and texture. Yet, their use is on the decline as a result of the synthetic origin of dimethiconol and its negative impact on the environment. As there is an increased need for an effective alternative, Seppic presents Emogreen HP 40 as an ideal solution.

AUGMENTING SUSTAINABLE FORMULATION DESIGN Available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals, this multifunctional ingredient is highly compatible with other formulation ingredients, it is easy to use and cold processable. With this new launch, Seppic consolidates its position as a social and environmentally responsible supplier to the hair care industry. Jennifer Fryscher, Seppic’s emollients product manager, comments: “Emogreen HP 40 widens the field of possibilities for responsible and sustainable formulation design in the hair care industry, addressing demands in terms of efficacy and custom-made care.”

HOME-MADE COSMETICS TREND With the self-care movement, consumers have taken to creating their own beauty recipes to take care of their skin and hair. Coupled with this, consumers are looking for transparency and simplicity. They also want to know that they their personal care products adapted and personalised to their needs and desires.

PERSONAL CARE

Table 1: Perfect smoothing serum (EU07716)

Phase

Ingredients

(%)

Aqua/Water

Up to 100

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

0.30

Sepimax Zen

0.60

Solagum Tara

0.50

Fluidifeel™ Easy

3.00

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

2.00

Isopropyl Myristate

1.00

Emogreen (1) HP 40

3.00

Tocopherol

0.05

Xylishine™

3.00

Alariane™

1.00

Fragrance

0.20

Preservative

1.00

Lactic Acid

0.25

SEPPIC’S COSMETIC MIXOLOGY FORMULAS

The first formula is a robust emulsion base combining softness and creaminess

The second customisable formula is a gel-cream base designed as a solid pebble

Thanks to its protective effect, this serum restores hair’s health and softness

Table 2: Precious hair oil (EU07746)

Phase

Ingredients Lanol 2681

(%) Up to 100

Emogreen (1) HP 40

5.00

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil

5.00

Cocos Nucifera Oil

20.00

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

20.00

Sea SatinTM

1.00

Fragrance

0.20

Tocopherol

0.20

This velvety gliding oil offers volume control and curl retention for shiny hair

In response, Seppic has launched a duo of cosmetic mixology formulas. Its marketing and innovation teams combined their expertise to develop a ‘blend it yourself’ concept, which is safe and fun for consumers. With these two bases, Seppic offers a simplified and safer customisation solution for consumers who are not always aware of the risks and constraints of home-made cosmetic formulation.

TWO FORMULAS WITH DIFFERENT SENSORY CHARACTERISTICS The first formula is a robust emulsion base combining softness and creaminess. Emulsion stability and robustness are provided by the emulsifier Montanov™

202. The polymers Solagum™ AX and Sepimax Zen™ enhance the formula’s resistance to electrolyte-rich actives. Designed with a minimalist approach, this formula also contains Emogreen L15, an emollient for sensory comfort and Aquaxyl™, which is an essential sugar-based moisturising agent. The second customisable formula is a gel-cream base supplied as a solid pebble. When activated with water, it forms a fresh gel with a light touch. The pairing of the Solagum Tara and Sepimax Zen polymers forms a fresh, watery gel-cream and strengthens the formula’s resistance to electrolyte-rich actives. Three additional ingredients have been incorporated: 1. Emogreen L19, an emollient for sensory comfort 2. Sepifine™ BB, a texturising agent to provide softness 3. Aquaxyl, an essential sugar-based moisturising agent.

EASY TO CUSTOMISE WITH HOME-BASED ACTIVES These two formula bases can be customised with active ingredients that are easy to find at home for various applications, including face care, hair care and body care. To ensure the robustness of the final formulas, the two chassis were tested with 10 home-made active ingredients with different profiles (viscosity, pH, presence of electrolytes and solubility). Among them were lemon juice for a radiance face mask, coffee grounds for a body scrub and pomegranate vinegar for an all-in-one hair care product. In addition to responding to a current market trend, when designing the formulas Seppic took into account consumers current needs for minimalist formulas and their requirements for high naturalness and safety for human health. • *assessment of the thermal protection of Emogreen HP 40 alone and in formulation via the measurement of keratin deterioration by Xpolar technology (Kmax Innovative System) on healthy Caucasian hair after 50 passes of heat treatment at 210°C.

CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Seppic – www.seppic.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

PERSONAL CARE

Future mania

– the buzz about what tomorrow holds

For a brief moment, just forget the present with all its uncertainties. Try to look a little further: imagine a care-free, vibrant future where the senses explode in a burst of pure joy. Welcome to Future Mania, another trend concept by Düllberg Konzentra.

ife will be fabulous, brilliant and radiant again! Is that merely a bold, daring vision? Or is it something within our grasp? “In this pandemic it feels like we’re all treading water. But if you don’t develop visions now, you run the risk of remaining stagnant. We think it’s time to look to the future, to unleash our imaginations,” says Lisa Achilles, marketing expert at Düllberg Konzentra. Sci-fi merged with a fantastical, almost exaggerated reality is the inspiration behind Future Mania. The concept is underpinned by a pop trend that has injected a dose of cinematic colour into everyday culture. In visual media, the Marvel universe and its spin-offs are incredibly successful. Even fragrances such as Wonder Woman 1984 (House of Sillage), Up to the Moon (House of Oud) or Alien Mirage (Mugler) are inspired by this larger-than-life world.

TABOO INGREDIENTS BECOME MAINSTREAM “About 10 years ago, anything that involved hemp was taboo. Today, the CBD component is found in many formulations, often supported by potent essential oils.”

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

The perfumers at Düllberg Konzentra have brilliantly transformed this joyful futuristic trend into a range of fragrances. The fragrance Amara is used in the hypnotic shower concept “I feel great”. With a blend of essential oils including mandarin, neroli and sandalwood, Amara is mood-lifting and intended to enhance mental health. The shower concept “stronger than ever” is all about restarting with nature’s energy, with refreshing essential oils such

as eucalyptus, cajeput and pine needle. Finally, “I am dreaming” makes the vision of fantastic worlds and a more liberated life come true with essential lavender oil, CBD oil and a hint of magical stardust. Düllberg Konzentra has underpinned the Future Mania trend with a comprehensive marketing concept and unique colour scheme: shimmering metallic effects on cool, optimistic shades of pink, green and blue.

"Today, the CBD component is found in many formulations, often supported by potent essential oils"

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Did you know? Düllberg Konzentra provides high-quality essential oils and perfume oils to the fragrance and beauty industry. The company is now represented throughout South Africa by Carbocraft, a leading supplier of food and personal care ingredients and process raw materials. Achilles explains: “Naturalness has many facets. I believe we all need a little shot of optimism in the arm to jolt us out of our enforced lethargy. Of course, this focus on sci-reality and the realm of fantasy is always driven by a need for escapism. It is absolutely no surprise that these genres and trends should flourish in the sensory deprivation of lockdown: they express our desire to flee into a more exciting, thrilling world. And if we can make a small contribution to this, then we are delighted to do so.” •

Carbocraft – www.carbocraft.co.za Düllberg Konzentra – www.duellberg-konzentra.de/en

POST-PANDEMIC TRENDS IN BEAUTY AND BODY CARE The pandemic has upended our lives. Millennials in particular are breaking free – “quitting” has become a radical act of self-care; “you only live once” is the credo that seeks to shed ballast. Will there be a “new normal” after the pandemic or will it all just have been a blip? Countless millennials have been asking themselves precisely this – and have answered it by questioning traditional ways of living and working, opting instead to quit and seek meaning in individual projects. They are pursuing their own post-pandemic passions, creating positive work prospects and striving to achieve a new clarity with no ballast.

Konzentra. “Our task is to rekindle the magic of making a purchase. The target group is eager for products that inspire them and chime with the new attitude towards life. Our trend concept ‘Transparency’ addresses these exact needs.” Refreshment, balance and purification – these are the key notions in Düllberg Konzentra’s “Transparency” concept. Waterpower offers unadulterated purity; the cool clarity of glacier water; the refreshing waterfall and the mysteriously delicate water mist. Four subtle fragrances fill these concepts with olfactory life:

“Transparency and lightness trigger high-spending millennials in the beauty and body care segment, as elsewhere,” says Lisa Achilles, marketing expert at Düllberg

1. aromatically marine waterpower 2. aromatic floral waterfall 3. aquatic-woody glacier water 4. aromatic citrusy-fruity water mist.

We add value to your supply chain! CARBOCRAFT is a leading ingredient and process raw material supplier in South Africa and Sub-Saharan Africa! CARBOCRAFT collaborates with Düllberg-Konzentra in South Africa & Sub-Saharan Africa. “CARBOCRAFT is proud to have partnered up with a leading fragrance and essential oil supplier such as Düllberg-Konzentra”

With a profound emphasis on customer service excellence and premium product quality, combined with a nationwide “JUSTIN-TIME” logistics philosophy, CARBOCRAFT has experienced rapid and sustained year-onyear growth since its inception in 2010. With warehouse facilities in all primary commercial centres of South Africa, we provide fast, flexible, JUST-IN-TIME deliveries to all our customers nationwide. Through our diverse product portfolio and JUST-IN-TIME logistics, we add significant value to the supply chain of our customers. For the personal care industry, we offer the following products, on a JUST-IN-TIME basis:

“Although scent and fragrances are invisible to the eye, our highly skilled team of fragrance specialists understands that they are an unforgettable accessory.”

• • • • • • • •

Fine fragrances Aroma Chemicals Benzyl Benzoate Extracts Propylene Glycol Methyl Salicylate Vitamins White petroleum jelly

• Essential oils • Activated carbon (granular and powdered) • Capsicum 6% • Glycerine • Menthol Crystals • Propylene Glycol • White oil light

Carbocraft (Pty) Ltd info@carbocraft.co.za

+27 (011) 234 0675 www.carbocraft.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

PERSONAL CARE

Consumer trends and regulatory compliance With the hype around the change in consumers’ post-pandemic shopping behaviour, many industries have had to reimagine and evolve their product offering, product claims, marketing platforms and distribution channels. The personal care industry is one that is particularly affected by consumer demand for rapid innovations, product efficacy and convenience, which all contribute to a holistic shopping experience. Dershana Jackison, CTFA’s head of policy and regulatory affairs, explores how to remain complaint within the changing personal care landscape.

ome of the trends we have seen internationally are quickly becoming global and trending in South Africa too. In recent years we have seen an obvious and huge shift towards digital technology with consumers migrating to the convenience this offers. McKinsey and Company reported that “omnichannel customers shop 1.7 times more than single-channel shoppers” (March 2022) and that in-store customers will evolve to using the various channels and touchpoints that a brand or a retailer has to offer. This clearly indicates that the customer’s needs are evolving and will continue to evolve. So, a seamless connectivity between the available channels is paramount to the shopping experience. Customers also expect to have visibility of store items before they visit the store or shop online and expect quick and easy pick-up of their ordered products. Though this is an example of brands and retailers investing in their retail strategy, there are other trends that will require regulatory considerations. COVID-19 has accelerated certain aspects already in development, such as consumers’ expectation to access product information and reviews whilst in store or browsing online. For example, a QR code is provided so that it can be scanned to access layers of online content. Though this clearly creates a new opportunity for brand owners they must continue to comply with all self-regulatory guidelines that apply to labelling, claims and advertising when using digital platforms. Ingredient transparency is key, coupled with truthful and appropriate product claims and advertising. The CTFA Cosmetic Compendium

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

includes updated ingredient annexes to help you stay compliant, while standards provide best practice for various product categories and testing of products. The advertising code of practice provides insight into permissible advertising and claims.

DIVERSITY, INCLUSIVITY AND SUSTAINABILITY Consumers expect product variety that speaks to equity and inclusivity and the visibility and position of such products in a retailer’s planogram is key. They are increasingly aware of advertising that respects human rights, is inclusive and promotes equity. Furthermore, brands and retailers that consistently support and contribute to environmental preservation speak to a more environmentallyaware consumer – especially post-COVID. To remain relevant and competitive, suppliers, formulators and manufacturers must rise to these demands and trends. Some fragrance houses are developing unisex fragrances to promote gender equality, whilst others are developing products that meet the needs of a multiracial spectrum of consumers to address diversity and inclusivity. Yet, addressing such trends comes with a fair number of challenges in terms of ingredient choice and formulation design. There is a growing need for natural and organic ingredients that are sustainably sourced, resulting in suppliers looking to expand their product portfolio. The Department of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment issue bioprospecting, access, and benefit sharing

"The CTFA Cosmetic Compendium includes updated ingredient annexes to help you stay compliant, while standards provide best practice for various product categories and testing of products" (BABS) permits to such suppliers to protect communities, resources and biodiversity. To address the demand for “clean beauty”, brands include ingredient claims and claims such as “natural” or “organic” on product labels. These claims must be truthful and scientifically substantiated.

IMPLICATIONS OF INGREDIENT TRENDS AND RESTRICTIONS Suppliers are also exploring alternatives to harmful ingredients being targeted by regulators globally, as signatories to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. Locally, the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment has published several regulations identifying chemicals that are considered harmful to the environment, which are aligned with current restrictions in the guidelines for the industry. This guideline is the CTFA Cosmetic Compendium, which aims to proactively inform and prepare industry for local upcoming regulatory changes. It also provides suppliers and formulators with a reasonable period to prepare for and comply with imminent ingredient bans or restrictions. These regulatory amendments, together with consumer demands and product trends, require formulators to go back to the drawing board to redesign products with alternative and/or “greener” ingredients. Product

PERSONAL CARE

development inputs such as stability testing, evaluating the efficacy of the preservative system and assessing packaging compatibility also require a rerun. Many will recognise this as a costly exercise that incurs additional financial implications for the business. Formulation redesign also affects the supply chain and ultimately the availability of a product on the market. The other spectrum to limited ingredient use is the questionable use of “free-from” claims, where brands include this on their labelling or advertising without scientific substantiation that the omitted ingredient is unsafe. Such claims create a consumer expectation and provide misinformation which is detrimental to the industry. Furthermore, this can lead to unnecessary regulatory oversight which may reduce the available ingredient pallet for innovative product development. CTFA has informed industry on the use of such claims in very specific cases, which has been effective since 1 September 2021.

MOVING TOWARDS A CIRCULAR ECONOMY Manufacturers also experience their fair share of challenges. Existing inventory of printed packaging, labels and raw materials or ingredients must be exhausted within the transition period or be discarded. They also have to navigate the sourcing and procurement of alternative ingredients and packaging components, which includes auditing and qualifying new suppliers and drafting service level agreements. Packaging suppliers are under increased pressure to contribute to the circular economy and are therefore producing new packaging from recycled material or waste and/or supplying components that are recyclable. This is communicated to the consumer by including specific logos on the actual packaging. The challenge for packaging manufacturers is to design and produce packaging components that will protect the product throughout its shelf life or use life and still contribute positively to the circular economy and government’s waste management plan. Some brands are going one step further to educate and promote recycling mindsets amongst consumers by including the various components of the product packaging and their respective recycling instructions. Reducing packaging is key to reducing packaging waste, so using fewer components per product is the goal.

upheld as one that is responsible, honest and compliant. Reputational damage as a result of misinformation through an inappropriate or untrue product claim can have implications on the industry as a whole, as consumers lose confidence in the products offered by brands and manufacturers, ultimately impacting their growth. Non-compliance may also serve as an incentive for regulators to further regulate the industry. Such oversight is historically known to have had an impact on limiting ingredient use, which has stifled product innovation. In addition, consumer protection laws need to be considered when designing products and their associated claims. Here are a few tips to consider to ensure that you contribute positively within the industry: • Will the average consumer understand the claim? • Does the consumer have background knowledge and access to information? • Do the claims assist consumers to make an informed purchasing decision based on their lifestyle? You can remain compliant if you meet certain requirements – ensure your product claims are truthful, that your product is safe for consumer use, that you have an in-depth understanding of the test report, and that you are able to sufficiently substantiate all claims if you are challenged by a competitor or consumer. As much as new claims are driven by consumers, creativity and competition, companies should be equally aware of the potential risk of these claims being challenged. • CTFA – www.ctfa.co.za

GREEN AND ECO-BASED CLAIMS MUST COMPLY Though there are several challenges facing the industry as these trends develop, there are many opportunities for brands to create new consumer experiences to drive market share and customer loyalty. One of the most obvious being labelling and advertising redesign. Making specific product claims that highlight the brand’s commitment to sustainability or making “green” claims is a growing arena for marketers. Here, all of the principles of responsible product claims and their supporting substantiation are applicable. Claims must be honest and fall within the confines of the advertising code of conduct and the cosmetic code. There are certain aspects that need to be considered carefully when making new claims, like the most appropriate substantiation and test methods. The relevant organisations or testing facilities also need to be contacted to determine if they will be able to provide test protocols for the claims and to ensure that you receive the correct regulatory advice.

AN INDUSTRY AT RISK OF REPUTATIONAL DAMAGE As trends develop, so do claims and it is the responsibility of all industry players to ensure that the reputation of the industry is

We supply raw materials to create innovative cosmetics and personal care products! High Quality | Convenient Smaller Pack Sizes | Cosmetics Consumables

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WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

PHARMA FOCUS: VACCINE MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION

The pivotal role of water banks in fighting Covid-19 Water is both an essential life-saving resource and a commodity that needs to be saved for times of scarcity. Abeco Tanks, the world’s first bank for the business of water, is no stranger to these realities. Water is also essential to the Covid-19 vaccine manufacturing process, helping to save millions of lives throughout Africa.

n collaboration with Zutari and HidroTech, Abeco recently assisted with the installation of two immense tanks on site at the Aspen Pharmacare manufacturing plant in the Eastern Cape.

One tank is specifically designed for treated water holding an impressive 317 000 litres while the other is designed for filtered water and can hold 108 000 litres. After a pivotal deal with Johnson & Johnson was announced in November 2021, Aspen Pharmacare was granted the rights to produce 300m doses of the vaccine in 2022 with plans to increase the volume to more than 700m by January 2023. However, there has been prolonged drought and water shortages in the Eastern Cape, affecting the area of Port Elizabeth where the Aspen Pharmacare manufacturing plants are based. Mannie Ramos Jnr, COO at Abeco Tanks Mannie Ramos Jnr, comments, “The process of COO at Abeco Tanks manufacturing the vaccine is complex, to say the least. From growing the cells to preparing the vials and cooling the machinery that mass-produces and stores the product, almost every step of the 60-day Covid-19 vaccine production cycle relies on water in some way.”

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Sterile water is what scientists use to dilute vaccines and many of the essential stabilisers such as gelatine in vaccines also require water. So, it is no wonder that biopharmaceutical manufacturing plants need reliable water purification systems, particularly in Africa.

STEEL TANKS BUILT TO LAST Together with Zutari as the consultant on the project and Hidro-Tech as the contractor, Abeco set about installing two internally coated pressed steel tanks. The tanks themselves are built to last using an internal bracing of angle iron welded to base plates. All sealants and rubber components are non-toxic and non-tainting to

"Almost every step of the 60-day Covid-19 vaccine production cycle relies on water in some way" ensure the purity of the water. All steel components are hot-dip galvanised to never rust and use the latest in tank corrosion protection. Once the water has been collected it then goes through one of two processes of treatment or filtration.

Filtered water is essential and processed through reverse osmosis to filter out all impurities. Treated water on the other hand has been chemically altered to be the correct balance and ph. The tanks are only one part of the larger water treatment process. They store, filter and treat the water before they use the end water product in the manufacturing plant.

AN ESSENTIAL INVESTMENT If there is one thing the pandemic, social distancing and isolation has shown us, it is that there is a strong correlation between disease, dense population and urban sprawl. Aspen needs to manufacture medication to address the increase in common easily treatable diseases in urban areas. The installation of the tanks is a bold statement to the rest of the world that investing in sustainable water solutions is simply non-negotiable, especially if we are to keep our citizens healthy and be able to supply the rest of the African continent with life-saving medication. •

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BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils paper, plastics, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils Saturation (Glistening) 293 industry-leading brands includes Eka, Dissolvine, Trigonox, and Berol. growth, and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. employees, and our shared commitment todedication business strong(Glistening) financial Saturation 293 293 For more information visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. items. Building on our nearly 400-year history, the of ourestablished 10,000 and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. (Glistening) and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. performance, sustainability, and innovation, we have a (Glistening) 293 293 items. Building on safety, our nearly 400-year history, the dedication ofSaturation our Saturation 10,000 and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. Saturation (Glistening) and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. For more information visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. performance, safety, sustainability, and innovation, westrong havecustomers. established a employees, and business our shared commitment topartnerships business growth, financial world-class and built strong with our About and Nouryon employees, our sustainability, shared commitment to business growth, strong financial For more information visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. performance, safety, and innovation, we havewith established a world-class business built strong partnerships ourportfolio customers. About Nouryon We operate in over 80and countries around the worldwe andhave our of a rely on For more information visit performance, surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. 1 We are asafety, global specialty chemicals leader. worldwide 1 sustainability, and innovation, established world-class business and built strong partnerships with ourMarkets customers. 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ourForessential chemistry in the manufacture of everyday products such as more information visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. items. Building on our nearly 400-year history, the dedication of ourfinancial 10,000 employees, andour our shared commitment to business growth, strong items. Building on nearly 400-year history, the dedication of and our 10,000 paper, plastics, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, personal care For more information visit employees, oursurfacechemistry.nouryon.com. shared commitment to business growth, strong financial employees, andand our shared commitment to business growth, strong financial performance, safety, sustainability, and innovation, we have established a items. Building on our nearly 400-year history, the dedication of our 10,000 performance, safety, sustainability, and innovation, we havecustomers. established a performance, safety, sustainability, innovation, we have established a world-class business and builtand strong partnerships with our employees, and our and shared commitment to business growth, strong financial world-class business and built strong partnerships with ourportfolio customers. world-class business strong partnerships with our customers. We operate in over 80built countries around the world and our of performance, sustainability, and we have established We operate in over 80 countries around the and world and ourand portfolio Weindustry-leading operate insafety, over 80 countries around theinnovation, world our portfolio ofBerol. of a brands includes Eka, Dissolvine, Trigonox, world-class business and built strong partnerships with customers. industry-leading brands includes Eka, Dissolvine, Trigonox, andour Berol. industry-leading brands includes Eka, Dissolvine, Trigonox, and Berol. Untitled-12 1 We operate over 80 countries around the world and our portfolio of For moreininformation visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. ForFor more information visitincludes surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. industry-leading brands Eka, Dissolvine, Trigonox, and Berol. more information visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com.

2020/03/19 15:2

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BIOHALE®, YOUR EXCIPIENTS FOR BIOLOGICS BY DFE PHARMA Stability for your biologics, Security for your business With BioHale® Trehalose Dihydrate and BioHale® Sucrose, we offer premium quality excipients for the stabilization of biopharmaceutical formulations. • Uncompromised quality: Highest purity and low in endotoxin excipients • Excellent support: Global and local quality, regulatory and technical support FDA-inspected production site (compliant with ICHQ7) based in Europe Specifications compliant with Ph. Eur., USP-NF, JP, ChP monographs • A secure supply: Smooth supply; lead times of 12 weeks when forecasted Local stocks available in Europe, US, Japan Production capacity available today and in future YOUR MEDICINES, OUR SOLUTIONS. MOVING TO A HEALTHIER WORLD. We develop, produce and supply over 200 high-quality functional excipients to (bio)pharmaceutical and nutraceutical companies worldwide. Our excipients are used for respiratory, oral solid dose (OSD), ophthalmic and parenteral formulations, including COVID-19 vaccines and treatments. Our promise is to ensure your whole value chain: From your R&D processes to supply to the market.

PHARMA FOCUS: VACCINE MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION

Africa welcomes its first locally-

developed and produced mRNA Covid vaccine

Labotec is excited to share its strategic partnership with Afrigen and Thermo Fisher Scientific to produce the first African-developed mRNA Covid-19 vaccine. This fantastic partnership is the result of great collaboration across diverse teams, and is truly making a difference throughout Africa. By Deborah Shaw of Labotec

oused in a maze of airlocked sterile rooms in the City of Cape Town, a group

of young South African scientists are working against the clock to produce the first locally-designed coronavirus vaccine for Africa. Formally established in July 2021, the mRNA vaccine Technology Transfer Hub is hosted by Afrigen Biologics and Vaccines (Afrigen). It is the first of its kind and scale in Africa which is capable of producing cGMP material for clinical trials. The goal of the hub is to establish an end-to-end sustainable vaccine manufacturing capability independent of first-world influence. This mRNA vaccine platform was established through a World Health Organization (WHO) coordinated multi-partner initiative, which will later expand into various other underresearched African diseases such as TB and the dreaded Ebola virus. At the lab level, the team has assembled the equipment needed for vaccine manufacturing. Petro Terblanche, MD of Afrigen, and its technical director, Dr Caryn Fenner, gave me an overview of the technology transfer. They discussed the production plans, significance of the project and the health benefits for the continent.

CREATING SUSTAINABLE VACCINE MANUFACTURING IN AFRICA Afrigen forms part of a WHO-coordinated multi-partner initiative. What are the objectives and drive behind this newly established bioprocessing lab and how will the enterprise establish sustainable vaccine manufacturing capabilities and industry in Africa and other lowto middle-income countries (LMIC)? As a biotechnology company, Afrigen is centred on two main platforms. One is a formulation platform (nano and microencapsulation) to improve delivery,

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

An African first, the Afrigen mRNA vaccine platform will operate through a hub and spoke model, with plans to later expand into addressing other diseases such as TB

"The pilot-scale mRNA vaccine facility will also be the first facility in Africa capable of producing material for clinical trials" stability and bioavailability of various actives. The second is an mRNA vaccine platform initially focusing on Covid-19 and then later expanding into other disease areas. The mRNA vaccine platform is being established through a WHO-coordinated multi-partner initiative of the COVAX workstream 3 to institute sustainable vaccine manufacturing capabilities and industry in Africa and LMIC. mRNA is the first vaccine platform to be set up which will operate through a hub and spoke model.

Afrigen, Biovac and the South African Medical Research Council form part of the South African consortium that will host this global mRNA hub, with Afrigen as the centre of excellence for technology transfer and training. The newly established mRNA vaccine facility within Afrigen will incorporate end-to-end manufacturing of mRNA Covid vaccines, from the production of DNA plasmid templates to mRNA drug substance manufacturing, formulation and fill/finish. The pilot-scale mRNA vaccine facility will also be the first facility in Africa capable of producing material for clinical trials.

A SIGNIFICANT MILESTONE FOR AFRICA’S HEALTH SECTOR Africa will forever be dependent on other countries for vaccines (and other medicines) if it does not establish its own sustainable

PHARMA FOCUS: VACCINE MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION

Did you know? Afrigen’s laboratories are based in Montague Gardens in Cape Town. The product development and analytical laboratories are furnished with specialised equipment for formulation, downstream processing and analytical capabilities. The location is conveniently within close proximity to the Biomedical Research and Innovation Platform of the South African Medical Research Council.

grow, nurture, evolve

vaccine manufacturing capabilities. This would then be supported by the quality and regulatory aspects associated with vaccine manufacturing. The first step is to produce a vaccine candidate that is safe, affordable and ready for use in humans against Covid-19, followed by other vaccines and medicines of importance to Africa’s healthcare needs. Those for infectious

The teams are working towards their target of 18 months to put the first candidate

suited for this design. Thus, a partnership was formed with Thermo Fisher Scientific,

diseases such as TB and Ebola virus are highlighted in this regard. An essential element in this project is the tech transfer hub, which will train all partners using the hub and spoke model to establish centres across Africa and other LMICs with the capabilities and reach. Ultimately, the goal is to make healthcare more affordable for and accessible to people on the African continent.

into clinical trials. The facility will be capable of producing a maximum of 10 million vials per year of Covid-19 vaccines, and the local manufacturer Biovac can produce 30 million doses a year to distribute across Africa. This mandate goes beyond Covid-19, including future pandemic preparedness, and targeting the high burden of disease and neglected diseases in Africa and other LMICs.

PLAN TO ESTABLISH VACCINE SECURITY

SINGLE-USE BIOTECH FERMENTER PARTNERSHIP

Included in the mRNA hub is also a local innovation pipeline, which sees contributions from universities and research entities based in South Africa. These contributions will be supported by entities from other African countries who will also play a role in the full vaccine manufacturing value chain, including discovery and screening, preclinical testing and clinical trials.

In assembling the equipment needed for this start-up, Afrigen established a partnership with Thermo Fisher Scientific and Labotec to make use of a single-use biotech fermenter. Afrigen strategically designed the vaccine facility to be multi-product (centred on a specific vaccine platform) and GMPaccredited. The versatility that one obtains using single-use technology was perfectly

being one of the leading suppliers of single-use technology, and Labotec, the distributor of these Thermo Fisher products in South Africa. The single-use fermenter will be used in the first step of mRNA vaccine manufacturing, which is the production of the DNA plasmid template in E. coli. So far, Thermo Fisher Scientific and Labotec have provided amazing technical support to the mRNA hub. Both companies have heavily invested their time, money and expertise, rallying around Afrigen and providing support that will help ensure the success of this particularly important work. •

New molecular biology portfolio

Successful installation by Labotec of the Thermo Scientific single-use fermenter at Afrigen Biologics. The fermenter will be used in the first step of mRNA vaccine manufacturing, producing the DNA plasmid template in E. coli

Afrigen – www.afrigen.co.za Biovac – www.biovac.co.za Labotec – www.labotec.co.za Thermo Fisher Scientific – www.thermofisher.com

Labotec is your guarantee of

WORLD CLASS

LAB SOLUTIONS

with consulting, technical support and service

sales@labotec.co.za | +27 11 315 5434 | +27 21 531 7660 | +27 31 566 4870 | +254 72 682 9675 (Nairobi)

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

PHARMA FOCUS: VACCINE MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION

Strong demand for vaccine packaging lines drives business growth

Marchesini Group celebrates a consolidated turnover of €490m (an increase of 9.1%), driven by the strong demand for vaccine and cosmetic packaging machines. The group has also reopened factory doors and has invested in Italian trade shows and major corporate events for its customers, stakeholders and students.

espite the highly volatile international situation due to the conflict in Ukraine and challenges relating to energy and raw materials supply, Marchesini hopes to return to face-to-face meetings soon. From 26 to 30 April, partially coinciding with Cosmopack in Bologna, Italy, the group hosted its first open house of the cosmetics division, showing the Beauty Division to guests. Established in 2021, the Beauty Division is home to 5 500m2 of space where technologies and workers are connected to the world of cosmetic packaging. The second open house, Open Door Pharma, took place in parallel with Pharmintech in Milan, from 3 to 6 May. Starting a day earlier than the trade show on 2 May, the gates of the Pianoro plants remained open for pharmaceutical industry guests, who had the opportunity to witness the launch of Marchesini’s new corporate sustainability project. The project is enhanced by machines that use paper instead of plastic and organic plastic instead of normal PVC in their packaging cycles. “After two years of teleconferencing, remote testing and stalled international travel, we are finally starting to plan in-house physical events again. Among other events, one of the most important trade fairs in our industry, the German Achema, will take place in August this year. We have taken the opportunity to further invest in Italy,” commented Marchesini Group board member Valentina Marchesini. “This is a terrible time for many people not far from us; we hope that our return to social interaction will bring positivity.”

Did you know? Marchesini is also hosting talent open days from 9 to 13 May. These five days are dedicated to schools and universities and will allow students from technical institutes within the Bologna area and from universities around Italy to witness machine production stages, talk to peers currently undertaking internships and learn more from industry specialists.

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

COMPLETE SOLUTIONS FOR VACCINE PACKAGING The company’s renewed openings, which have always been appreciated by industry professionals, will also benefit from a confidence booster provided by Marchesini’s latest financial results. These show strong business growth.

"2021 consolidated turnover returned to growth, approaching a threshold of €500m" Its 2021 consolidated turnover returned to growth, approaching a threshold of €500m (a 9.1% increase compared to 2020), 76% of which was generated by exports. This performance can be partly attributed to strong demand for packaging lines for Covid vaccines. In 2021 alone, these sales accounted for €46m of consolidated turnover, generated by orders that included individual lines and machines involving the entire vaccine packaging process, from filling in bottles to packaging in pallets.

PACKAGING SOLUTIONS FOR BEAUTY The cosmetic packaging machine segment, which in recent years has joined the core pharmaceutical segment, also achieved impressive results. Its growing share of consolidated turnover – €44m (increased by 8.9% compared to

2020) – is the successful outcome of targeted investments in the sector. The latest was the creation of the company’s Beauty Division, which reorganised and extended the production of the MG Beauty, Axomatic, V2 engineering, Cosmatic and Dumek brands. Despite the decline in interest during the pandemic for products such as lipsticks and creams, the growth in cosmetic sales has confirmed the public’s enormous interest in beauty products, no longer limited to women.

A RESILIENT BUSINESS “The figures tell us that in these two years, despite the difficulties, we have been resilient and shrewd. We had to change our priorities, but this allowed us, for example, to understand that we can assemble a production line in six to eight months instead of the standard 12 months,” stressed Marchesini Group’s CEO, Pietro Cassani. “When everything becomes more stable, some things will remain, such as certain remote testing, while others will become a new norm, such as the application of flexible hours for entry to work at our locations. The pandemic accelerated existing market dynamics, which will change again – enormously – as a result of the conflict in Ukraine. Continuing to be resilient is the only possible solution for all of us.” MGSA Projects is the South African agent for the Marchesini Group. • Marchesini Group – www.marchesini.com MGSA Projects – www.mgsaprojects.co.za

PHARMA FOCUS: VACCINE MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTION

The crucial role of mineral salt adjuvants in vaccine manufacturing

Because they stabilise the antigen during processing, storage and application, mineral salts are an indispensable part of vaccines. Mineral salts fulfil several technological functions such as acting as buffers, pH adjusters, adjuvants, chelating agents and stabilisers.

ince most vaccines are parenterals, the highest standards of purity and quality are required. Dr. Paul Lohmann, represented locally by Nautilus Chemicals, offers a wide range of highly pure mineral salts with the following parameters: • bioburden (TAMC/TYMC) and additional parameters • low in endotoxin grade • heavy metal profile according to ICH Q3D • constant production processes • residual-solvent free • animal-component free • BSE/TSE-free • GMO-free. As a commitment to all customers’ requirements, the mineral salts are also: • multi-compendial (e.g. Ph.Eur., BP, USP/NF, JP) • low in RNase grade

• available as custom premixes and salt solutions • available in customised packaging.

OUTSTANDING EXPERTISE Dr. Paul Lohmann is based in Germany and guarantees a high level of transparency and security along the entire supply chain. Over 135 years of salt development and production have strengthened the company’s know-how and have made it one of the world’s leading suppliers of high-quality salts. Diverse production options enable the manufacturer to modify specific chemical and physical properties in order to produce tailor-made salts or salt solutions. High transparency and product quality make Dr. Paul Lohmann an ideal and reliable partner for salts used in vaccines.

QUALITY AND CONSISTENCY Dr. Paul Lohmann’s GMP-certified purpose-built plant is used exclusively for the production of low endotoxin qualities using low endotoxin process water. Its consistently high quality minimises batch-to-batch variation in the production process and supports customers’ batch-to-batch consistency of the final vaccine formulation. With its expertise in the chemical and physical modification of mineral salts and its customer-oriented corporate philosophy, Dr. Paul Lohmann is an ideal partner to turn customers’ ideas into reality. •

Dr. Paul Lohmann – www.lohmann4minerals.com Nautilus Chemicals – www.nautiluschemicals.co.za

Salts in Vaccines Various Functions ◆ EDTAs as stabilizers ◆ Aluminium salts as adjuvants ◆ Acetates, Carbonates, Citrates, Phosphates and Succinates as buffers

local agent:

T: +27 21 140 0308 E: info@nautiluschemicals.co.za www.nautiluschemicals.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

WELL-AGEING/PRO-AGEING

An extraordinary molecule to scavenge all radicals

No skin care routine is complete without antioxidant protection, especially when trying to combat premature ageing. Lipochroman™ (INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol) molecule by Lubrizol Life Science Beauty is a bio-inspired molecule and antioxidant active ingredient with proven efficacy against oxidative stress, which is greater than other well-known agents such as resveratrol, vitamins E and C.

eactive species have high chemical reactivity and can be based on oxygen (ROS), nitrogen (RNS) or carbonyl (RCS). When these reactive species accumulate in the skin, they may damage skin cells and structural components to contribute to the development of signs of skin ageing, which include wrinkles, loss of elasticity and age spots. To avoid the deleterious effects of reactive species, the skin possesses a system of endogenous defenses, such as low-molecularweight antioxidants, co-enzyme Q10 and vitamins C and E, which directly quench ROS.1 Additionally, there are small proline-rich repeat proteins (SPRRs), located in the stratum corneum, which have a direct role in scavenging ROS.2 Skin cells also rely on enzymatic detoxification systems that are responsible for the removal of ROS and xenobiotics. Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, which is commercially available as an oil-soluble powder or as a water-soluble ingredient is a powerful bio-inspired antioxidant that can offer triple protection against ROS, RNS and RCS.

Figure 1: Using the Cuprac method, the total antioxidant capacity (TAC) was measured to determine antioxidative capacity. Both demonstrated outstanding antioxidative properties in an aqueous solution

Indeed, both cosmetic active ingredients demonstrate outstanding antioxidative properties in an aqueous solution, even compared to vitamin C (see figure 1). In addition, the active ingredient can boost the cell’s processes of detoxification of toxic substances coming both from the interior of the body and external environment. Thanks to the combined mechanism of action, the active ingredient can help to improve skin’s appearance. This was measured on a panel of 20 female volunteers (33 to 57 years old), who applied a cream containing 0.05% Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol or a placebo in a half-face experiment.

TOTAL ANTIOXIDATIVE CAPACITY OF THE SKIN The ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assay is used as an index of the capability of the skin to resist oxidative damage. The measurements were performed in epidermal samples taken by tape stripping. In the skin of volunteers that applied a cream containing the active ingredient, the antioxidative capacity increased by 21.3%

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

"By improving its internal antioxidative properties, skin can better defend itself against oxidative stress" and 36.7% after 14 and 28 days respectively. By improving its internal antioxidative properties, skin can better defend itself against oxidative stress.

IMPROVEMENTS IN SIGNS OF AGEING Skin elasticity was measured by cutometry on the cheek and the following two parameters were evaluated: 1. overall elasticity (R2), which represents the skin’s ability to recover to its basal state after deformation 2. net elasticity (R5), which indicates the recovery after deformation due to the elastic component of the skin.

WELL-AGEING/PRO-AGEING

0 days

14 days

28 days

Figure 2: Reduction in wrinkle depth was measured in the crow’s feet area at 14 days and 28 days after treatment with the active ingredient 0 days

56 days

Figure 3: After 14, 28 and 56 days, the melanin index in the skin of the volunteers was reduced, suggesting an improved skin tone

Skin suppleness is improved with the treatment with Lipochroman molecule. This is measured as increases in the R2 and R5 parameters. Wrinkle depth was measured in the crow’s feet area by means of a real 3D microtopography imaging system based on fringe projection. The skin surface was reconstructed using an algorithm to generate 3D images and wrinkle depth determined. At 14 days, wrinkle depth was

reduced by 17.5% and at 28 days by 21.3% on average (see figure 2), indicating that Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol may help improve the appearance of wrinkles.

IMPROVEMENTS IN SKIN TONE The intensity of melanin within dark spots was measured using a spectrophotometer and by determining the individual typological angle (ITA⁰). ITA⁰ values increased after 14 and 28 days of treatment, indicating a reduction in pigmentation or darkness of the skin and thus an improvement in the appearance of dark spots, compared to the placebo. Improvements in skin tone were also demonstrated in a second clinical study, specifically in Asian skin types. Here, the

melanin index in the skin of the volunteers was measured by mexametry after 14, 28 and 56 days. On average, the melanin index was significantly reduced by 6.9% in only 14 days. It continued to improve at 56 days, with an average reduction of 13.3% (see figure 3). This suggests that Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol can improve skin tone in only 14 days. Available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, both forms of Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol demonstrate outstanding antioxidative properties, even compared to common benchmark products, which help it to boost the skin’s antioxidative properties while offering anti-ageing benefits. • REFERENCES: 1. Briganti S, Picardo M. Antioxidant activity, lipid peroxidation and skin diseases. What’s new. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 17(6): 663-9, 2003 2. Vermeij WP1, Alia A, Backendorf C. ROS quenching potential of the epidermal cornified cell envelope. J Invest Dermatol. 131(7):1435-41, 2011.

Lubrizol Life Science Beauty – www.lubrizol.com/Personal-Care Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

Provides antioxidant shelter and promotes complete detox

Untitled-1 1

05/04/2022 12:14:30

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

WELL-AGEING/PRO-AGEING

Collagen – the ultimate ingredient for healthy ageing

By 2050, around a quarter of the world’s population will be 60 years or older.1 Staying mobile and maintaining an active lifestyle will be crucial for many of these people to remain healthy. Peptan bioactive collagen peptides provide multiple health benefits for joints, bones, muscles and skin. We spoke to Monique Barnard, AECI Food & Beverage’s business manager for health & nutrition, about how Peptan collagen peptides support healthy ageing. By Abby Vorster

here is immense opportunity for growth and innovation in the natural nutritional solutions market, especially in well-ageing focused or wellness-fromwithin nutraceuticals. Consumers’ growing understanding of physical wellness and beauty from within is leading manufacturers of nutraceuticals and functional foods to place ever higher demands on ingredient quality, safety and traceability as well as the scientific substantiation thereof. Globally recognised as a leading collagen peptides brand, Peptan consistently delivers the highest quality ingredients and technical support to meet manufacturers’ formulation needs. Peptan is produced by Rousselot, which develops collagen-based solutions for health and nutrition, biomedical, pharmaceutical and food industries. These solutions are distributed throughout Southern Africa by AECI Food & Beverage.

Did you know? Peptan’s multiple anti-ageing benefits are well-documented. It can counteract the effects of ageing and promote a more youthful appearance by boosting and restructuring the skin’s collagen network from within. By stimulating the production of hyaluronic acid, Peptan also offers skin hydration benefits.

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

AV: WHAT IS THE POTENTIAL FOR INNOVATION IN THE HEALTHY AGEING MARKET IN SOUTH AFRICA? MB: As people age, they want to be able to stay active and mobile with limited or no aches and pain, making Peptan a great option to meet this need. By promoting mobility, it helps healthy agers to maintain physical well-being and stay active. As the branded hydrolysed collagen from Rousselot, Peptan is backed by clinical studies that demonstrate in science that it promotes bone health, supports muscle strength and maintains healthy joints. 2,3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 It is soluble, heat stable and highly compatible with many other ingredients, making it is easy to use in a wide variety of applications and innovative products.

AV: COLLAGEN PEPTIDES ARE BECOMING MAINSTREAM, GAINING WIDER ACCEPTANCE AND FAMILIARITY AMONG CONSUMERS, PARTICULARLY WHEN IT COMES TO HEALTHY AGEING. WHAT COLLAGEN INGREDIENTS DOES AECI FOOD & BEVERAGE OFFER? MB: The Peptan hydrolysed collagen we offer is pure collagen, which is either from bovine, porcine or fish source. In South Africa we only offer the Type 1 collagen, which is from the

skin or hide of the animal and is identical to the collagen found in human bones and skin. Specifically developed to deliver numerous health benefits and functional properties, Peptan is a natural, high purity, bioactive product with a protein content of over 97% on a dry weight basis. The collagen peptides are optimised for high bioavailability and bioactivity. This means they quickly reach the parts of the body where they are needed most and provide maximum effect. In fact, 90% of Peptan collagen peptides are digested and available within the connective tissues just a few hours after digestion.

AV: IS PEPTAN SUPPORTED BY SCIENTIFIC STUDIES? MB: Yes, Peptan is backed by solid scientific evidence. This includes studies on its bio-availability and its skin beauty, joint health, bone health, sports nutrition, weight management and hair beauty benefits. Comprehensive information on the results of these studies is available on the Peptan website. The product’s efficacy in providing key health and beauty benefits has been demonstrated in double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical studies and results have been published in leading scientific journals.

WELL-AGEING/PRO-AGEING

AV: IN COMPARISON TO OTHER MORE MATURE CATEGORIES OF NUTRACEUTICAL INGREDIENTS, SUCH AS PROBIOTICS AND OMEGA 3, DO COLLAGEN PEPTIDES PROVIDE DIVERSIFIED HEALTH BENEFITS? MB: Peptan provides multiple health benefits by delivering bioactive collagen peptides for healthy joints, bones and muscles as well as skin. After the age of 30, our collagen levels start to drop, leading to signs of ageing. Peptan’s unique amino acid composition is high in hydroxyproline and glycine, which supports the formation of bioactive peptides that offer specific health benefits. Some of the health benefits include optimal joint and bone health, reversing signs of skin ageing by improving the collagen structure from within, keeping connective tissue healthy and promoting mobility in order to life an active lifestyle.

"Peptan’s unique amino acid composition is high in hydroxyproline and glycine, which supports the formation of bioactive peptides" AV: CAN YOU SUGGEST ANY EXCITING OR NEW APPLICATIONS FOR COLLAGEN PEPTIDES IN TERMS OF FUNCTIONALITY AND PRODUCT INNOVATION? MB: In South Africa, Peptan can be found mostly in powder forms, either pure or flavoured with some other ingredients. Peptan can used in a bar application, such as cereal, protein

or meal replacement bars. It can also be used in confectionary like muffins, bread and gummies, and it can be used in beverage applications, such as fruit juices, hot chocolate, teas and coffees, with recent innovation including a beer application. Dairy products or tablets are also alternative applications to consider. On the Peptan website, readers can see what products have been launched with Peptan and where to buy these in South Africa and worldwide. •

REFERENCES: 1. World Population Prospects. United Nations, 2015 2. Jiang, J.X. et al., 2014, Collagen peptides improve knee osteoarthritis in elderly women: A 6-month randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Agro Food Industry Hi Tech, 25: 19-23 3. Clifford, T. et al., 2019, The effects of collagen peptides on muscle damage, inflammation and bone turnover following exercise: a randomized, controlled trial. Amino Acids, 51: 691-704 4. Dar, Q.A. et al., 2016, Oral hydrolyzed type 1 collagen induces chondroregeneration and inhibits synovial inflammation in murine posttraumatic osteoarthritis. Osteoarthritis and Cartilage, 24: S532–S533 5. Guillerminet, F. et al., 2010, Hydrolyzed collagen improves bone metabolism and biomechanical parameters in ovariectomized mice: An in vitro and in vivo study. Bone, 46: 827-834 6. Guillerminet, F. et al., 2012, Hydrolyzed collagen improves bone status and prevents bone loss in ovariectomized C3H/HeN mice. Osteoporosis International, 23(7): 1909-1919 7. Wauquier, F. et al., 2019, Human enriched serum following hydrolysed collagen absorption modulates bone cell activity: from bedside to bench and vice versa. Nutrients, 11:1249 8. Daneault, A. et al., 2015, Biological effect of hydrolyzed collagen on bone metabolism. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 10:1040-8398

AECI Food & Beverage – www.aeciworld.com/food-and-beverage Peptan – peptan.com

Say hello to AECI Food & Beverage!

The newest name in the Health & Nutrition industry is 124 years old We are a supplier and partner to the Health & Nutrition industry and proud distributor of Peptan® Collagen Peptides. Included in our portfolio are ingredients for gut and brain health, phytotherapy, alternative proteins and immune support Monique Barnard 072 587 5052 Christina Havenga 079 500 9989

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

WELL-AGEING/PRO-AGEING

Get instant gratification from innovative active ingredients In a highly visual world where social media and sharing content online have become the new standard, people want to be photo-ready at all times. Fine lines, wrinkles, signs of fatigue, a lack of radiance and slack skin have no place in this world of instant gratification. Vantage Specialty Chemicals presents new skin care ingredients from Solabia and Codif which offer instant results.

s the skin ages, it loses its firmness and smooth youthful appearance. This is due to the depletion of collagen and elastin fibres, leading to the first signs of ageing. As the toned and elastic qualities diminish, skin becomes increasingly prone to the force of gravity and is marked little by little. These marks include wrinkles, fine lines and a dull complexion. The signs of ageing are not only limited to the face. The neck, décolletage and arms are equally impacted by a loss of firmness and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is possible to prevent changes in the skin using targeted anti-ageing products and by restoring the dermal network and skin density, but they often take time to have a full effect. For consumers who demand immediate results, tensors are valuable allies. These beauty-flash

Butterfly lavender

Glycotensyl is 18 times more effective than the placebo

solutions are designed to instantly improve skin’s firmness and tone. They smooth wrinkles and fine lines in a matter of minutes and help to tighten not only the contour of the face, but also the neck and décolletage. Lifted and tightened immediately, the skin regains a youthful and fresh appearance.

DOUBLE-EFFECT IMMEDIATE TENSOR ACTIVE Glycotensyl® from Solabia is an optimised combination of two polysaccharides, marine alginate and biotech biosaccharide gum-4. The ingredient is supplied in a mixture of water and vegetable propanediol. Biosaccharide gum-4 is an anionic-branched deacetylated polysaccharide with a high molecular weight (2.106 Da) obtained from biotechnological fermentation. It forms a homogenous and highly organised matrix network, which leads to a breathable film on skin’s surface. Alginate is a polysaccharide of marine origin that is found in the cell membranes of brown algae. It is responsible for the flexibility of algae and protects it against dehydration. Through biomimicry, alginate brings several sensory qualities to the skin, such as softness, suppleness and hydration. An in vivo study was conducted on a group of 20 women with an average age of 43. They applied a cream containing 5% Glycotensyl in a standardised format of 1mg/cm² on the hemi-face, versus a placebo. The maximum extensibility of skin (R0) was measured on the cheekbone by Cutometer Dual MPA 508 at T0 and after five minutes. Because it forms a tensor film on the skin’s surface, Glycotensyl decreases skin’s stretchability after just five minutes of application. This effect is 18 times more effective than the placebo. Immediately tightened, skin is more toned and firmer. Glycotensyl is available in South Africa from Vantage Specialty Chemicals.

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

WELL-AGEING/PRO-AGEING

Did you know? Both men and women demand instant results from cosmetic products which have resulted in an increase in the number of aesthetic procedures. The global facial injectable market size was valued at $8.88bn in 2019 and is expected to show an 11.8% growth rate fueled by social media influence and the availability of injectable products.

Skin firmness

Cutaneous ageing is accompanied by a reduction in osmolyte transporters and in the availability of osmolytes to protect intracellular water reserves. Without intracellular water cells lose their volume, vitality and ability to survive. As a result, the structure of the epidermis is altered and becomes thinner. Skin progressively loses its density and plumpness. Therefore, osmolytes and their transporters represent new targets for treating thin skin that lacks density. From Codif’s iconic Stoechiol, which has a botox-like mechanism of action, comes its latest innovation, Vitasmoothy. It is sourced from butterfly lavender in the Mediterranean region which has developed osmoregulatory mechanisms to survive in a dry environment. These mechanisms protect its water reserves and preserve the vitality and viability of its cells. Dedifferentiated butterfly lavender cells are cultured with earth marine water to activate the synthesis of osmolytes. This water combines both minerals from seawater and minerals from the earth’s

Regeneration of water reserves % variation in intracellular water

+27%

INGREDIENT TO IMPROVE SKIN’S HYDRATION LEVELS

Immediate visible

99.8%

Vantage Specialty Chemicals – kim.maccallum@vantagegrp.com

Super food

results

ISO16128 - NOI

crust, as well as an aromatic extract of organic butterfly lavender. The extract contains aromatic compounds which the cells in culture are unable to synthesise, so it acts as a natural elicitor. One gram of Vitasmoothy concentrates the pulp from 200 000 lavender cells to provide the skin with the osmoregulation capabilities developed by the plant. To confirm the effect on reconstituting intracellular water reserves, human skin explants of a 38-year-old donor were used in clinical study with a topical application of 0.5% Vitasmoothy on D0, D1, D2 and D5. The level of intracellular water was measured using Raman spectroscopy. The results showed an increase in osmolyte transporters, which activates incoming water flow to regenerate cell water reserves by 69%. Available in South Africa from Vantage Specialty Chemicals, Vitasmoothy also reduces dehydration by 50%. •

extract

China IECIC 2015

VEGAN

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

WELL-AGEING/PRO-AGEING

Shifting the needle from

anti-ageing to pro-ageing

These days, most people can expect to live well into their 60s and beyond, with countries worldwide experiencing growth in both the size and proportion of an ageing population. By 2030, one in six people globally will be 60 years or older. With this in mind, Toni Carroll, founder of My Beauty Luv, outlines top pro-ageing ingredients.

he global anti-ageing market was recorded at $63.9bn in 2021 and is forecast to rise to $126.2bn by 2030, registering a CAGR of 6.9%.1 Historically, this industry has been driven by fear, with brands touting products that promise to reverse ageing but which often don’t deliver results. Research has shown that through a pro-ageing and health-conscious attitude, which is largely linked to the self-care trend, people can indeed age well and slow down the ageing process. 2 But with this, the stigma of ageing needs to be broken.

"It’s best to start with an inside-out approach for overall health and longevity" Ageing is a privilege. It is important for us to embrace it by adopting a pro-ageing approach. This doesn’t mean the rejection of beauty products, but rather making more targeted choices towards those that are designed to enhance the appearance at any age, instead of concealing and combatting signs of ageing. Luckily, there are various products on the market that can help with this. But it’s

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Tremella fuciformis , the “beauty mushroom”

best to start with an insideout approach for overall health and longevity. A new trend in ingestible beauty is medicinal mushrooms and there are a few that have been proven particularly beneficial to mature skin.

FABULOUS FUNGI FOR THE SKIN Regarded as the “beauty mushroom” in Asia, Tremella fuciformis or the tremella mushroom is packed with vitamin D in its most bioavailable form. Tremella extract has been scientifically proven to improve skin hydration, protect against collagen loss after UV exposure and to reduce inflammation. Auricularia auricula-judae, wood or jew’s ear mushroom, is highly sought-after for its numerous health and longevitypromoting properties. Scientifically, it has been found to stimulate pro-collagen biosynthesis in skin cells and to increase hyaluronic acid synthesis, helping to hydrate skin and protect against loss of elasticity. Sparassis crispa, the cauliflower mushroom, contains veratric acid which is renowned for its antimicrobial, anti-irritant

Did you know? According to nutritioninsight.com, most consumers view beauty from within as an important strategy to support healthy ageing and healthy skin.

and antioxidant properties. An extract of this mushroom has been found to protect skin cells by inhibiting UVB-induced DNA damage while promoting collagen synthesis and increasing healthy fibroblast cell activity.

WELL-AGEING/PRO-AGEING THE BEAUTY OF HYALURONIC ACID When it comes to topical agents, my top solutions are medicalgrade retinol and hyaluronic acid. Retinol dramatically impacts the skin by stimulating collagen production while also working to improve its underlying structure, increasing firmness and in doing so, smoothing lines and wrinkles. It also speeds up the normal exfoliation process to provide skin clarity, smoothness and a more even-toned complexion. Plus, it stimulates hyaluronic acid within the skin, keeping it moisturised, hydrated and healthy and full-looking.

"Retinol dramatically impacts the skin by stimulating collagen production"

Sparassis crispa, the cauliflower mushroom

Although naturally occurring, our hyaluronic acid levels diminish as we get older, leaving the skin progressively unable to retain water, causing dehydration, sallow skin and fine lines and wrinkles. When applied topically, hyaluronic acidbased skin care products reduce transepidermal moisture loss and fortify the skin barrier. These products are also super hydrating and provide skin with suppleness and a plumping effect. This is because

hyaluronic acid can attract and retain more than 1 000 times its own weight in water from the surrounding atmosphere while also drawing moisture up from lower skin layers to the top levels of the epidermis. Remember, we all need to be the best version of ourselves, no matter our age. After all, age is just a number – and I personally only really started finding my groove in my late 30s. Ageing is a privilege and as we grow older and wiser, the more we look after ourselves and our bodies – especially our gut health – the better we can age. •

REFERENCES: 1. https://www.marketwatch.com/press-release/ anti-aging-market-size-future-trends-currentgrowth-2022-emerging-technologies-global-regionswith-industry-share-analysis-gross-margin-regionaldemand-and-forecast-to-2030-2022-02-21 2. https://edition.cnn.com/2015/01/02/health/age-selffulfilling-prophecy/index.html

MATRIXYL inside ®

The anti-wrinkle reference The product range to manage skin ageing at any age Matrixyl® Matrixyl 3000® Matrixyl® Morphomics™ Matrixyl® Synthe’6™ Smart science to improve lives™ SouthAfrica_04-2022_Matrixyl-Range.indd 1

22/04/2022 13:16

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

BLUE LIGHT PROTECTION

Is lutein the next new ‘vitamin’? Humans’ reliance on eyesight is almost absolute. It is taken for granted that over the course of a lifetime, the eyes will continue to relay the surfeit of visual information required by the brain to help navigate environments and interact with the world around us. But because we live in a blue world, vision comes at a cost exacted daily when the eyes are open. Luckily, with Lutein, there is a protective solution.

here are known and cost-effective interventions, including early and adequate dietary intake of the macular carotenoids lutein, RR-zeaxanthin and RS [meso]-zeaxanthin. Consistent and daily intake of these nutrients plays a key role in visual function and protection, especially from consistent exposure to blue light. When asked, most people rank vision loss as one of the worst possible health outcomes, more than losing hearing, memory, speech, or a limb.1 It is not difficult to understand why because vision impairment and blindness are less about the physiological outcome (i.e. not being able to see) and more about the consequence of a disconnection from the world and the loss of independence that healthy vision provides.

LIVING IN A BLUE WORLD The scientific consensus is that visible light is both necessary for vision and harmful due to excessive or prolonged exposure. Light-mediated damage plays a role in many common forms of blindness, including agerelated macular degeneration (AMD).2 Photooxidation – the production of free radicals induced by exposure to radiant energy like light – is akin to the sunburn that results from ultraviolet light. Photooxidation from blue light is the most common form of damage that can occur in the retina. Like UV light, sunlight continues to be the major contributor of blue light but the increasing reliance on digital devices has extended exposure into almost every facet of daily life. It is the daily exposure to blue light and the ensuing photooxidation which leads to small, imperceptible changes in retinal cells over a lifetime. These changes can manifest as age-related visual impairment. To mitigate the effects of blue light, the eyes have evolved to have mechanisms to help reduce the effects of blue light by incorporating filters that

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

"Promoting the essential nature of macular carotenoids in the “digital age” can be a new avenue to broaden their demand" absorb high-energy wavelengths and reduce photooxidation.

BLUE LIGHT AT A GLANCE • unlike UV light, blue light penetrates deep in the eye, impacting retinal cells directly • AMD risk increases about 38% with sunlight exposure2 • the average adult spends 10 hours per day on digital devices3 • short-term effects of blue light exposure from digital devices include eye strain and physical discomfort.

CLOSING THE GAP There continues to be a gap between consumer understanding and scientific consensus, especially among younger demographics. This is reflected in poor dietary intake of foods rich in macular carotenoids.4,5 The gap also provides a new opportunity, especially with the convergence of greater exposure to blue light from digital devices, for growing awareness/ concern about the effects of blue light and the willingness of younger consumers, such

as millennials, to choose supplementation to proactively manage their health. Consumers are aware of the importance of supplementing with essential/conditionally essential nutrients as reflected in purchases. Vitamin/mineral supplements remain the most popular category among supplement users (98%) and 83% of consumers aged between 18 and 34 take a multivitamin.6

BLUE LIGHT PROTECTION

Did you know? In South Africa, on average, consumers spend more than 10 hours a day online. 3 And yet, symptoms of digital eye strain occur in as little as two hours.9 Consumers between the ages of 18 and 34 are devoting more of their purchasing power to supplements, with 70% reporting supplement use to “fill nutrient gaps in the diet”, for “more energy”, and for “overall health/wellness benefits”.5 Fish oil/essential fatty acids continue to be one of the most popular supplements among adults based in the US.7 Promoting the essential nature of macular carotenoids in the “digital age” can be a new avenue to broaden their demand among consumers already vested in supplement use.

STUDY FINDINGS OPEN NEW MARKET There is a strong case for supplementation to compensate for lifestyle, dietary and biological factors, which together dictate a higher need to replenish macular carotenoids daily.

Consumers of all ages continue to be bombarded by blue light at every turn, if not from their digital devices, TV screens and LED lighting, then from sunlight, which continues to be the biggest source. In 2017, the B.L.U.E. (or Blue Light User Exposure) study was published. It was the first to demonstrate a direct link between supplementation with all three macular carotenoids and their ability to protect against the effects of prolonged blue light exposure from digital devices. 8 The findings of this study helped open a new market, allowing companies to tap into a new audience of consumers skewing a lot younger than previous target groups. The B.L.U.E. study demonstrated that eye health can be a relevant and important concern for younger consumers looking for solutions to address a growing need to protect and preserve healthy vision from increasing blue light exposure, coupled with the desire to fill nutrient gaps and support overall wellbeing. Macular carotenoids have rapidly grown in importance during the last couple of decades on the back of many studies showing protective and visual performance benefits.

Now their essentiality for eye health and the growing concern of prolonged blue light exposure is providing new opportunities in younger consumers who spend most of their time on digital devices and are increasingly looking to supplements to proactively manage their health. • REFERENCES: 1. JAMA Opthalmol 2016 2. Hammond. Exp Eye Res 2014 3. https://www.iol.co.za/business-report/empowerment/ this-is-how-much-time-south-africa-spends-usingthe-internet-per-day-and-per-year-e042b345-813a4d02-9609-e6b0edcc5978 4. Bright Focus Foundation. Age-Related Macular Degeneration: Facts & Figures. https://www. brightfocus.org 5. CDC The CDC Guide to Strategies to Increase the Consumption of Fruits and Vegetables 2011 6. CRN Consumer Survey on Dietary Supplements 2018. Available at: https://www.crnusa.org/ CRNConsumerSurvey 7. [NIH. Use of Complementary Health Approaches in the U.S. Update 2017. Available at: https://nccih.nih.gov/ research/statistics/NHIS/2012/natural-products/ omega3 8. Stringham JM, et al. Foods 2017 9. Innova Market Insights, 2017-18

OmniActive – www.omniactives.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

Award winning. Clinically backed. IP-protected. There’s only one Lutemax 2020. Ask us how Lutemax 2020 can help you capture new opportunities. Lutemax 2020 is a patented plant based extract containing all three nutritionally relevant macular carotenoids—lutein, RR- zeaxanthin, and RS (meso)-zeaxanthin—in the same 5:1 ratio found in the diet. Naturally derived from marigold flowers using non-GMO seeds, Lutemax 2020’s unique combination of carotenoids is backed by multiple clinical studies. Lutemax 2020 is produced through a fully vertically integrated supply chain. Your partnership with OmniActive supports the lives and communities of farmers in rural India through our Improving Lives Foundation.

Distributed by

www.savannah.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

BLUE LIGHT PROTECTION

Powerful protection against blue light, infrared and pollution HEV light, also known as blue light, is visible light at a wavelength close to UV. It is high in energy and is not blocked by UV filters. In addition to being a component of sunlight, it is produced by digital screens from TVs, PCs, LED lamps and smartphones. HEV light penetrates deeper into the skin than UV light and has a higher level of energy than IR light, resulting in greater potential for skin damage to occur via ROS production. To provide protection, Mibelle Biochemistry presents InfraGuard.

uman skin encounters different stresses during the day. In addition to UV radiation, skin is exposed to environmental pollution and different wavelengths of light, being high energy visible (HEV) and infrared (IF), which can cause damage. IR is the long wavelength part of the solar radiation which reaches the earth surface. Recent studies have shown that IR radiation is involved in photo-ageing of the skin.

"HEV irradiation is known to negatively affect skin by generating reactive oxygen species" HEV irradiation is known to negatively affect skin by generating reactive oxygen species (ROS), which cause oxidative damage and contribute to photo-ageing. It has also been shown that blue light irradiation delays skin barrier recovery. Therefore, it is very important to protect skin from the harmful effects of blue light. InfraGuard (INCI: Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Pod Extract, Propylene Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Sprout Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol and Aqua/Water) combines an extract of organic sunflower sprouts with Caesalpinia spinosa tannins. The sunflower sprout extract has been found to support the overall health of mitochondria while the

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Did you know? The need for protection from blue light has grown substantially in line with the drastic increase in screen time among consumers. This is especially an issue as blue light is most efficient at inhibiting melatonin, a hormone that regulates the circadian rhythm, which is the body’s natural clock. Excessive screen time, especially before bedtime, can lead to changes in sleep patterns and affects the quality of sleep.

C. spinosa tannins are highly-efficient and stable antioxidants.

AN EFFECTIVE ALTERNATIVE TO VITAMIN C The technique of electron spin resonance spectroscopy was used to analyse the antioxidant activity of

InfraGuard. The ingredient from Mibelle was found to be almost as active as vitamin C, however vitamin C is known to be highly unstable in a formulation. InfraGuard also outperformed other natural antioxidants such as resveratrol and green tea. Further in vitro studies demonstrated a protective effect of InfraGuard in skin cells irradiated with infrared and HEV light. Normal human epidermal keratinocytes or normal human dermal fibroblasts were pretreated for 24 hours with InfraGuard at different concentrations and then submitted to HEV light exposure for two hours. Immediately following the irradiation period, the amount of ROS was measured in the cells. The ingredient significantly reduced ROS production in blue light irradiated keratinocytes as well as in

BLUE LIGHT PROTECTION

mitochondrial integrity in IR irradiated skin cells. For a clinical trial, 32 volunteers were selected who spent their summer holidays in a warm, sunny climate for two to four weeks. They applied an SPF30 sun cream with 2% InfraGuard or the same cream without InfraGuard (placebo) onto each inner side of the forearms twice daily during the entire vacation period. Before and after the vacation, skin firmness and density were measured. After the vacation, skin firmness and density had deteriorated on the skin area where only the sun cream was applied. Use of 2% InfraGuard not only protected the skin, but also improved skin firmness and density. These results demonstrate that InfraGuard, available in South Africa from Carst & Walker, delivers complete skin protection against the harmful effects of blue light, infrared and urban pollution. •

The damaging effect of blue light on skin

"2% InfraGuard not only protected the skin, but also improved skin firmness and density"

irradiated fibroblasts. Therefore, it helps to prevent free radical formation upon blue light exposure.

COMPLETE SKIN PROTECTION Additional in vitro studies showed a protective effect of InfraGuard in skin cells exposed to particulate matter. Treatment with the ingredient decreases ROS and protects

Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Mibelle – www.mibellebiochemistry.com

InfraGuard Powerful protection against infrared and blue light • Blocks IR and blue light-induced free radical formation • Protects mitochondrial DNA • Inhibits light-induced skin aging • Prevents the loss of skin density upon sun exposure • Reduces 5G-induced free radical formation and inflammation

mibellebiochemistry.com

mibelle_infraguard_inserat_177x130_RZ.indd 1

21.04.22 09:52

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

INDUSTRY TALK

Workable solutions to mitigate

SA’S energy crisis South Africans have become accustomed to working and living with loadshedding over the past few years. Power outages have become a reality with 1 130 hours of planned power cuts experienced in 2021 alone. Recently, the country was warned to prepare for approximately 61 days of loadshedding between 1 April and 31 August, depending on unplanned unavailability.

nergy experts at FM Solutions recommend that companies which have been considering investing in solar power, avoid delaying this decision any longer. “While we’re unable to predict the future, we can say with a fair amount of certainty that loadshedding and interrupted power supplies will be with us for a long time to come. As a result, organisations are being impacted in productivity and ultimately profitability. If they wish to remain competitive, they should aim to become as self-sufficient as possible,” suggests David Petrie, technical manager: utilities at FM Solutions.

PREPARE FOR HIGHER COSTS, LONGER DELAYS Renewable energy has become more affordable, with the cost of solar PV reduced by approximately 90% since 2000. Unfortunately, recent global events had a negative impact on the solar industry’s value chain and negated these savings. According to Petrie, the negative impact of the Covid19 pandemic, growing global demand for solar PV equipment and international shipping delays have caused a sharp increase in the cost of solar PV systems in South Africa. “Current world events such as wars, the pandemic and unstable economies are impacting fuel prices. This has a knock-on effect on transportation and shipping costs. South Africans have the added burden of being reliant on fuel to keep their generators running during loadshedding. Our country’s power utility also relies on diesel to supplement the electricity demand during peak times and when coal supplies are insufficient – necessitating the 300% increase in electricity tariffs we have seen over the past 10 years,” he explains.

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

South African businesses and homeowners wishing to install solar-powered systems should prepare themselves for long delays before they will finally be able to unshackle themselves from erratic supply and surging electricity tariffs.

FEEDING SOLAR ENERGY BACK INTO THE GRID The question arises whether home and business owners who have invested in solar panels might be able to feed their excess electricity back into the grid in order to reduce the impact of loadshedding on the rest of the country or the municipality. Petrie explains that technically it is possible for commercial and residential property owners to feed renewable energy back into the power grid.

"Renewable energy has become more affordable, with the cost of solar PV reduced by approximately 90% since 2000" “Small-scale embedded generators (SSEG) can get around 72 cents for every kilowatt hour pumped back into the grid via a bi-directional electrical meter. Whilst this sounds like a workable solution and an easy way to recoup the money you have spent on installing the system, unfortunately the high monthly admin fee and cost of changing over from a pre-paid electricity meter to the required bi-directional electricity meter makes it unattainable for most households or businesses. Additional meter reading fees would also apply,” he says.

Although there still are a few outstanding details that need to be gazetted by municipalities before the purchasing of privately produced power becomes a workable reality, it could become a feasible solution in the future.

MEASURING YOUR SUCCESS Government gazetted on 8 December 2020 that non-residential buildings and organs of state must declare their energy consumption by displaying an energy performance certificate at the entrance to their buildings. This will necessitate detailed and ongoing reporting of a company’s energy usage as part of the National Energy Efficiency strategy under the National Energy Act 2008 (Act no 34 of 2008) aimed at improving the country’s energy consumption. “We facilitate the entire process of installing the correct PV solar system for our clients from start to finish. We begin by conducting a detailed energy audit to determine an organisation’s energy needs, manage and oversee the installation and continue to provide live monitoring and reporting of the solar system’s performance after installation. This allows us to identify energy thieves and address problem areas – thereby ensuring the system’s optimal performance and maximum return on the client’s investment,” Petrie concludes. • FM Solutions – www.fm-solutions.co.za

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ASSOCIATION NEWS

PRESS RELEASE FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

PLASTICS INDUSTRY RELEASES LATEST RECYCLING FIGURES

Water warriors honoured with Caroline Reid Awards Johannesburg, 22 November 2021. Plastics SA, the umbrella body representing the local plastics industry, has just released the official plastic recycling statistics for the year ending 31 December 2020. Each year, data is collected from plastics recyclers around the country by Plastix 911 on behalf of Plastics SA. PETCO provides figures from their listed PET recyclers, whilst raw material suppliers Sasol and Safripol provide input on the production and domestic demand of plastics raw materials. Plastic industry market sectors:

South Africa’s plastics industry is dominated by the packaging sector (which accounts for roughly 52 % of the local market), followed by building & construction (13 %), agriculture (9 %), automotive and transport applications (7 %).

Due to increased awareness of hygiene caused by the outbreak of the Covid-19 pandemic, the demand for flexible packaging increased by 2 % in 2020. Demand for rigid packaging (linked to on-the-go meals, PET beverage bottles and take-away containers) shrunk, although packaging used for domestic- and personal care increased due to the greater emphasis on cleaning and the increased demand for hand sanitisers. Packaging sheeting was also used to manufacture face shields locally.

During National Water Week, from 20 to 26 March, Plastics SA recognised the commitment and dedication of our country’s water warriors. The industry association awarded the annual Caroline Reid Awards for Clean-Up Champions of the Year. Consumption of virgin and recycled plastics in SA:

South Africa, like most countries around the world, witnessed a decline in collection and recycling rates during 2020, compared to pre-COVID-19 rates. In addition, many recyclers were unable to operate at full capacity for several months during the past year due to social distancing norms. Other factors that adversely affected the plastic recycling activities include ongoing loadshedding, water shortages and high labour costs which forced many operations to scale down, or even close their doors permanently. 

D  

South Africa converted 1 739 480 tons of polymer into plastics products during 2020, a decrease of 5.6 % from 2019. This is the total amount of locally produced polymers, imported polymers and recycled polymers sold to local convertors in South Africa, and excludes polymers exported, virgin and recycled. Locally recycled polymer represented 17 % of the total domestic consumption, a drop from 18.3 % in the previous year. Per capita consumption for locally converted plastics (virgin and recycled) decreased to 29 kg/person (down from 31 kg/person recorded in 2019). Per capita consumption for virgin material only, dropped from 26 kg to 24 kg. Virgin consumption has increased by 11 % since 2011, whilst recycled tonnages, locally converted, increased by 35 % over the same 10 year period.

ouw Steyn, sustainability director Week and is also a signatory of Operation Clean at Plastics SA, comments: “We Sweep. It sponsors the Durban Green Corridor Plastic recycling in SA launched the Caroline Reid Award in Clean-ups and litterbooms on the Umgeni River South Africa recorded an input recycling rate of 43.2 % during 2020. 461 500 tons of plastic waste were collected for recycling, of which 312 600 tons were successfully recycled back into raw materials. 2019 in memory of a fearless and passionate and 296 500 tons of recyclate were used to produce new products while 97 260 tons of recyclate were used actively promotes recycling and education to produce new packaging. conservation warrior who was also a very dear in order to keep litter out of the environment. more 2/… friend of the industry. Caroline sadly passed CityZen and Najen Naidoo have been helping away in 2018 after a tragic accident, but we JHB-based communities of Rivonia, Gallo wanted to ensure her memory and passion live Manor, Morningside, Bryanston, Kramerville, on with these awards that recognise and reward Wendywood and Woodmead to fight greatness by an individual in the field of inland, neighbourhood deterioration. Together they waterways and marine and coastal clean-ups.” create greener, clean and safe areas, one cleanThere are many unsung heroes in up at a time. They turn the collected waste into communities around South Africa who protect sustainable job opportunities through recycling the environment and make a difference in the and upcycling programmes. quality of community life. Clean City SA conducts clean-up campaigns in Hillbrow, JHB, every Saturday morning. Headed 2022 CAROLINE REID by Dalu Cele, the team keeps the streets and AWARDS RECIPIENTS open spaces clean and has already collected Sulandi van den Heever is a true west coaster over 6 000 refuse bags full of waste. who has taken it upon herself to coordinate Durban Clean Corridors provides solutions clean-ups in the Lambert’s Bay area for the and support for cleaning natural environments, last decade. ensuring that waste is recycled, repurposed The Glencairn Education & Environmental or removed and that communities within Support Enthusiasts, headed by Cilla Bromley, these areas are significantly involved. Siphiwe has been organising clean-ups in the Glencairn Rakgabale is the coordinator of these cleanand Simon’s Town areas for more than a decade. ups and is also the litterbooms coordinator of The Izame Zabantu Nature Helpers are the Umgeni and Uhlanga regions. He ensures dedicated to removing the pollution that flows that waste collected from these litterbooms is via the Black River, into the canals in Paarden removed and sorted for recycling. Island, Cape Town. This small, yet dedicated Eco Care Trust gathers valuable information group of eco-warriors have already filled tens on the aquatic state of our country’s freshwater of thousands of bags with waste that they eco-systems. Bernard Venter, a keen angler and have removed. supporter of Plastics SA’s Clean-up and Recycle The Birdwatching fraternity is a dedicated Clean-ups, distributes our litterbags to visitors group of supporters of clean-up events and at dams, rivers and angling competitions to projects in the Overberg under the auspices educate people on the effects of litter on of Dr Anton Odendal. The fraternity has the waterways. successfully tackled sensitive clean-up actions The Soulbent Project, under the leadership of along its local coast. Luka Mashudu Makhado, is very aware of the The Lower Breede River Conservation Trust is negative impacts illegal dumping has on based in Witsand and has been very proactive in the environment. This intrepid team is dedicated keeping one of the largest rivers in the Western to cleaning Gauteng – one illegal dumpsite at Cape managed and cleaned through monthly a time. clean-ups. The trust is also very involved with clean-ups of the last pellet spill that ended up on MAKING A SUBSTANTIAL DIFFERENCE our beaches. Siphiwe Rakgabale, Green Corridors’ litterboom Safripol has been a long-standing supporter co-ordinator and Musawenkosi Shange, Green of Plastics SA’s annual Clean-up and Recycle SA Corridors’ coastal and waste management

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Douw Steyn (left) of Plastics SA with Siphiwe Rakgabale (right) of Durban Green Corridors

Sulandi van den Heever of the Lambert’s Bay area

projects officer had this to say about their award: “We would like to thank Plastics SA for this recognition, as we continue to carry on the legacy of Caroline Reid. The work we do is very much in collaboration with a number of partner organisation. We hope that our efforts to restore and clean riverways will help to create improved natural spaces for people to connect with nature and the planet and improve their quality of life.” Plastics SA thanked every volunteer, sponsor, organisation and individual who works to remove visible litter from the environment. • Plastics SA – www.plasticsinfo.co.za

ASSOCIATION NEWS

The power of effective packaging It’s more important than ever to make packaging part of the product experience. This was highlighted during a Coschem lecture on 30 April. Hosted on Teams and presented by Abby Vorster, P&C Review’s editor and content creator, the lecture covered trends and popular concepts, how brands are optimising packaging for e-commerce, highlights from Propak Africa 2022 and sustainability.

ackaging has evolved from its basic functions of preserving and storing products, to a medium for engaging and delighting consumers. It gives brands a chance to tell their story, communicate who they are, and to add value. When we look at popular colours and concepts, there’s no doubt the beauty industry is married to the use of neutrals and bold colours in packaging. They’re evergreen, never go out of style and they portray a sleek and smooth appearance. Packaging is also part of a brand’s identity, in the same way architecturally unique buildings become landmarks. Think of the Ponte Towers in the JHB CBD or the cooling towers in Soweto. These are iconic spaces that have significant heritage and deep emotional connections with consumers – anyone can identify these spaces. The same applies to packaging design and brand architecture, whether it is a signature colour or a specific font, there is something consumers identify with on a brand’s packaging.

E-COMMERCE AND UNBOXING New data from FNB Merchant Services shows that the South African online e-commerce market has grown rapidly and is currently estimated at just under R200bn per annum. On the international front, according to Edge Retail Insight, online sales are set to account for almost a third of global health and beauty sales by 2026 (up from a fifth of sales in this category in 2021). Companies such as Takealot, Woolworths and Checkers are all adapting to new consumer habits of shopping online, and now more than ever, cartons are on the front lines. Long overlooked as unglamorous, carton packaging is coming into its own. While its primary function is to protect the products that lie within, cartons are also relied on to keep contents clean and safe, as well as

available today. Corrugated boxes and cartons, labels and even flexible packaging can be digitally printed. While it substantially reduces or eliminates the time and cost of printing forms, mixing ink, press setup/washup and setup/production waste, the biggest benefit of digital printing for SMEs is its accessibility.

STARTING A SUSTAINABILITY JOURNEY

deliver a brand message and experience for the consumer who opens the box. As a result, carton perceptions are now at an all-time high and the importance of an unboxing wow moment is key.

PROPAK AFRICA AND DIGITAL PRINTING There was a palpable energy and vibe at this year’s Propak Africa, which took place from 8 to 11 March at the Johannesburg Expo Centre in Nasrec. The show offered four days of unparalleled access to fresh new thinking and the latest cutting-edge machinery, products, consumables, systems and services. The main themes Abby noticed at the trade show were automation, recycling, EPR legislation and PRO strategies, traceability, sustainability, replacement substrates, and the evolution of digital printing. Digital printing truly stood out for Abby during the show as an ideal solution for packaging and labels for emerging brands. Digital inkjet printing is the most versatile and cost-efficient digital printing technology

As more and more consumers become environmentally conscious, it’s vital for businesses to embrace sustainability in their packaging. In fact, this should be a priority among businesses across all niches, as statistics show that more than half of the consumers worldwide take sustainable packaging into consideration before buying a product. This is the general consensus in the media, but a one size fits all approach is not ideal when it comes to packaging and sustainability, especially in South Africa. Major changes include moving to plasticfree products, a move to biodegradable packaging or joining the refillable revolution. There are also suggestions for smaller steps towards more sustainable packaging: • Consider light weighted options from your packaging supplier. Many packaging producers have redesigned and reengineered their packaging to be light weighted, using less materials to produce them and reducing costs and energy associated with production. • Consider metal-free pumps which makes the packaging easier to recycle. • Opt for flexible packaging where possible. This type of packaging requires less energy and water to manufacture and gives businesses the freedom to customise. • Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MAY 2022

Tea

time Take a breather

NUMBER CRUNCHER CROSSWORD Across 1. 12 across divided by nine 4. 13 down minus twenty-nine 6. 19 across times three 7. 19 down times four 8. 7 across minus twenty-six 10. 20 down plus forty-one 12. 6 across times eight 14. 13 down times eleven 15. 18 down doubled 17. 17 down minus twenty-seven 19. 11 down doubled 21. Seconds in four minutes 22. 8 across plus ninety-six 23. Four times 21 across

Down 1. 22 across minus 128 2. 10 across plus fifteen 3. Nine gross 4. 2 down minus 188 5. Five score 9. Dozen in ten gross 10. 17 across minus thirty-seven 11. Months in eleven years 13. Minutes in five hours 16. Twelve gross 17. 15 across plus seventeen 18. 21 across plus sixteen 19. 4 across minus sixty-two 20. Seconds in seven minutes

contact

To advertise in Anita Raath

Carla Melless

Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

+27 (0)83 260 6060

www.pharmacos.co.za

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

ADVERTISERS' INDEX AECI Food & Beverage........................25........aecifoodandbeverage.com / aeciworld.com Bruker SA ...............................................IFC........www.bruker.com/optics Carbocraft ..............................................13........www.carbocraft.co.za Chempack Industries..........................15........www.cpack.co.za CJP Chemicals ....................................OFC........www.cjpchemicals.co.za

Labotec ...................................................19........www.labotec.co.za Mibelle Biochemistry..........................33........mibellebiochemistry.com Nautilus Chemicals .............................21........www.nautiluschemicals.co.za Print a Label............................................. 7........www.printalabel.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals......... 23, 31........www.savannah.co.za

Croda SA .................................................29........www.crodapersonalcare.com/en-gb

Telpro Management ............................. 5........www.rolanddg.co.za

IMCD SA ..................................................17........dfepharma.com

Vantage Specialty Chemicals .........27........www.vantagegrp.com

MAY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ONLINE

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ website will find information on membership, educational programmes (specific details pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the personal care industry.

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

www.coschem.co.za

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers, plastic containers,

analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,

closures and packaging accessories.

Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Phone: +27 (0) 11 661 7914 Cell: +27 (0) 81 399 9737 E-mail: peter.moopeloa@bureauveritas.com

THE PERSONAL CARE COACH

FORMPAK

The Personal Care Coach and Training

For over 50 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical,

Company is a one-stop shop for skin care and cosmetic entrepreneurs and businesses. We supply small packs of raw materials to entrepreneurs and small businesses. We also offer training.source the appropriate

food and dairy industries.

ingredient, at the right price.

Tel: +27 (0) 11 828 8870/1/2 Fax: +27 (0) 11 828 8880

Phone: +27 (0) 11 425 2206

email: haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations. If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

www.thepersoncalcarecoach.com

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications. Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK

A full-service experience

Review Ishida Europe has extended its range of QX Flex tray sealers with the launch of a new model, which meets market demands for a compact, high-performance solution. The innovative model also maximises output, capacity and flexibility for medium- to high-volume production lines. Sustainability is an integral part of Multivac’s strategy. For 60 years, the company’s packaging solutions have ensured that sensitive products globally can be processed efficiently, as well as being packed hygienically, reliably and attractively.

Rotolabel is passionate about the environment and focuses on minimising any negative ecological impact of its products. The company subscribes to the four Rs of packaging sustainability: responsible sourcing; reduction of materials; recyclability and increased recycled content

Read more in the latest issue of Packaging Review Out Now! ADVERTISING

Interested in advertising in PACKAGING REVIEW? If you are a supplier to the packaging industry, this will be an ideal opportunity to showcase your product offering and create additional brand awareness within the food, beverage, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, personal care, and home care manufacturing sectors.

Contact our advertising sales executives to book your space: Anita Raath Sales executive +27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive +27 (0)83 260 6060

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive +27 (0)71 438 1918

SIGNUP

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review May 2022

Articles inside

Is lutein the next new ‘vitamin’?

Shifting the needle from anti-ageing to pro-ageing

Collagen – the ultimate ingredient for healthy ageing

The crucial role of mineral salt adjuvants in vaccine manufacturing

Africa welcomes its first locally-developed and produced mRNA Covid vaccine

Consumer trends and regulatory compliance

Ingredients to meet consumers’ needs for sustainable formulas and product personalisation