Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review October 2019 by New Media B2B

INSIDE: HPCI SA & Coschem conference highlights

OCTOBER 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 10

www.pharmacos.co.za

in all areas of production and packing

SKIN & FACE CARE Tried, tested & effective natural ingredients

QUALITY ASSURANCE TOOLKIT Advice & solutions to ensure compliance

AEROSOLS

Locally manufactured personal care aerosols increase by 8.3%

Cosmetics Skin Actives and Viscosity Modiﬁers: ─ Anti-pollution ─ Skin Lightening / Pigmentation ─ Slimming Complex ─ Anti-aging ─ Anti-acne

A complete slimming solu�on Caﬀeine

Activates HSL pathway through increase in cellular level of cAMP Lipolysis activation

Camellia

Fatty acids responsible for FFARs receptor activation

Lipolysis activation

SLIM EC3 Esculin Carni�ne

BRENNTAG SOUTH AFRICA

Metabolic booster: Promotes free fatty acids burn in mitochondria (Lynen cycle) Fatty acids elimination

Phone: + ()    Phone: + ()    Email: info@brenntag.co.za www.brenntag.com/south-africa

Microcirculation: Promotes free fatty acids drainage out of adipocytes

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

October 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 10

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

Bix’Activ – tested and effective on oily African skin

6 NEWS

Amway retains its number one ranking

Symrise develops scent and care solutions for Nigeria

Avon launches clean beauty brand, Distillery

38 LABELLING

8 PRODUCT NEWS

What’s new in South Africa

40 QUALITY ASSURANCE

10 EVENTS

Ultra-low migration labelstock for pharma products

Coschem conference & HPCI South Africa highlights

14 PHARMA FOCUS: MADE IN SA

Proudly South African production and packing at Hersol

Cipla commits to manufacturing ARVs locally

Local supplier builds confidence in the market

20 SKIN & FACE CARE

Ensure minimum risk with safe pressure measurements

Tips to increase the quality of natural products

Choose ceramic bearings for corrosive environments

Newly released edition of the European Pharmacopoeia

Practical advice on how to manage quality systems

Cannabis flower essential oil adds a new twist to beauty

Afrisil Speciality Ingredients and Symrise collaborate

A closer look at microbiome skin care

Stevia extract to reinforce natural beauty

Chempure’s Bianca Cahill named an ‘influential woman’

BASF’s Bix’Activ boosts African skin

47 AEROSOLS

Detox and purify skin with clay and charcoal

Ashland launches CB2-skin and Rosaliss

Effective technologies to support healthy skin

Introducing Detoxondria from Codif

Hemp hype hits an alltime high

Ensure minimum risk with safe pressure measurements Market trends and local filling statistics

Insight into trending markets and new movements P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti

Building blocks to economic growth

here are 174 manufacturers of

for exfoliation produced from fermented

pharmaceuticals in South Africa. Of

pumpkin. Turn to page 20 now to read about

them, 95 supply exclusively to the

all these and more fascinating offerings.

private sector, 15 exclusively to the

It takes a seamless approach to quality

public sector and 64 to both sectors. These

assurance to develop or manufacture

statistics are according to a 2018 report by

reliable products. High quality products

the Helen Suzman Foundation, entitled The

result in satisfied customers, improving

Supply of Pharmaceuticals in South Africa.

customer loyalty while driving repeat

South Africa’s manufacturing sector, which

purchases, upsell and advocacy. In our

includes the pharma industry, provides

quality assurance feature on page 40, we

an opportunity to significantly accelerate

look at systems and proven solutions to

growth and development – yet only several

improve processes and efficiency in R&D

portions of the South African Government’s

and manufacturing environments.

Contributors: Analike Blom van Staden, Andrea Mammes, Chris Johnson, Elena Cañadas, Harald van der Hoeven, Dr Heiko Prade, Olga Laporta, Raquel Delgado, Rosalia Mantilla, Silvia Weber, Sylesh Venkataraman ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION

awarded to local manufacturers. One

highlights from the Coschem annual

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

share went to Cipla, which is highlighted

scientific conference which took place in

PUBLISHING TEAM

in our made in SA pharma focus on

September, in conjunction with the inaugural

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

page 14. This feature looks at a range of

HPCI South Africa expo. The expo featured 25

South African businesses contributing to

exhibitors and representing 87 international

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmedia.co.za

building our country’s economy through

companies. It was attended by over 500

Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman

local manufacturing and procurement.

buyers from the personal care, cosmetics

Art Director: David Kyslinger

You can also read about Hersol’s

and home care industries.

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

National ARVs tender for TEE and TLD were

transformation over the past 39 years to

On page 10, you can check out the

Our social media communities

maintain its proudly South African status in

dedicated to the manufacturing of

all areas of producing and packing pharma

cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and health

and nutraceutical products.

supplements, are growing. Please follow

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

@PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview on

Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd

This is evident in our 18 page feature on

Facebook, @SApharmacos on Twitter and

MANAGEMENT TEAM

skin and face care. A vast amount of new

@pharmacosreview on Instagram to be part

MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

research, trends and product innovations

of the conversation and gain access to value

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis

are highlighted, such as cannabis flower

added content.

BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley

essential oil, a new complex based on

Enjoy the read!

As a nation, we’re obsessed with skin care.

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone

probiotic technology, a stevia extract with a

HEAD OF HR: Camillah West

retinoid-like mechanism of action, an active

CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson

ingredient to control sebum which has been

HEAD OFFICE

tested on African skin, and a natural enzyme

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

NEWS

retains its number one raking FOR THE SEVENTH year in a row, Amway has been named the world’s leading direct selling company on the Direct Selling News Global 100 list. The list ranks the top revenue generating direct selling companies in the world. Celebrating its 60 th anniversary this year, Amway saw a two percent increase of its 2017 sales of USD8.8 billion. As the company looks beyond 2019, its strategic investments will focus on driving future growth through social commerce, product personalisation

and innovation, as well as new digital experiences for Amway business owners and their customers. ‘Amway’s cause of helping people build businesses of their own has never been more relevant than right now,’ says CEO, Milind Pant, in the company’s 2018 sales announcement. ‘People around the world like the idea of entrepreneurship and Amway will continue to fuel the humanity and passion they and Amway business owners bring to their businesses each day.’

Sbusiso Mpande, the Clere Stock Up & Drive Off Winter 2019 competition winner

A Clere win for JHB entrepreneur KEMPTON PARK'S SBUSISO Mpande entered the Clere Stock Up & Drive Off Winter 2019 competition at Yarona Cash & Carry in Crown Mines, where he buys in bulk for his local business. The local businessman, who distributes various products, including Clere, to more than 20 tuck shops around Johannesburg, arrived at the IC Auto Nissan Roodepoort on a sunny Tuesday afternoon with no information, other than that he was a finalist. ‘We received a phenomenal number of entries this year,’ says Clere brand manager, Su-Marie Annandale. ‘The Clere

Stock Up & Drive Off competition ran from April to July 2019, and the hundreds and thousands of entries are testament to the brand; the trust and love people have for it.’ Mpande’s nerves were visible as Annandale said to him: ‘I know you thought you were coming here as a finalist, but that’s not entirely true – you’re the winner of this year’s Stock Up & Drive Off competition. This brand-new Nissan NP 200 Bakkie right here; it’s all yours!. Mpande said the win is going to change his life. ‘My car has given me so many problems, I’ve been struggling to run my business.’

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

Bioprinted 3D skin tissue for testing bio-actives THE JOINT RESEARCH of BASF Care Creations and CTIBiotech is about to reach a new milestone. The cooperation partners have announced the development of the first 3D bioprinted skin models including immune macrophages. The reconstructed tissue models will form the basis for development and testing of bio-actives for skin care applications. Using CTIBiotech’s 3D bioprinting technology will enable BASF’s scientists to increase their 3D bioprinted skin model portfolio. The technology will provide a powerful platform for skin care researchers looking to study the function of macrophages in fully reconstructed skin. Macrophages constantly monitor the skin’s microenvironment for indications of cell stress, tissue injury or infection. They are essential for wound healing and to fully regenerate tissue. To maintain skin’s homeostasis, macrophages have a high degree of plasticity that promotes or suppresses inflammation. ‘Compared to current in vitro methods, the 3D immune bioprinted skin developed with CTIBiotech will allow analysis more in line with human physiology and the immune role of macrophages,’ says Dr Sébastien Cadau, 3D tissue engineering specialist at the BASF site in Lyon, France. ‘That’s how the technology is going to help us accelerate the development of innovative and highly reliable ingredients for the skin care market. Our understanding of an immunocompetent 3D skin provides the basis for developing and testing advanced cosmetic bio-actives for skincare applications.’ BASF and CTIBiotech started their cooperation in 2011. In 2015, the research partners began working on 3D tissue models for the development and testing of bio-actives for skin care applications. In 2018, they announced their first results – the experts demonstrated both the ex vivo production of physiological sebum in a long term culture of a 3D human sebaceous gland model and the regulation of this sebum production by means of active ingredients. ‘CTIBiotech and BASF have a long history of collaborations on innovative human skin models to advance human skin care,’ comments Prof. Colin McGuckin, CTIBiotech chief scientific office. ‘We have a team of world experts in human tissue engineering with 3D bioprinting technology, which will strengthen the success of this partnership in the future.’

NEWS

SYMRISE DEVELOPS SCENT, CARE AND TASTE SOLUTIONS FOR NIGERIA ON 4 SEPTEMBER, the global fragrance and flavours manufacturer, with its head office in Germany, opened the new facilities in Lagos, the largest city in the west African country. Rudy McLean, managing director at Symrise South Africa, says the new application labs will strengthen the company’s presence and underpin our growth goals in the region. In the labs, Symrise experts from sub-Saharan Africa will work on developing applications using Symrise’s fragrances and cosmetics ingredients. Flavours for various application areas, in particular for beverages, sweet applications and savoury foods, will also be developed. The company wants to meet the preferences of regional customers as closely as possible with this expansion in Nigeria. ‘With these application labs, we can create products in the

market for the market,’ McLean adds. ‘We can deepen our understanding of the preferences and needs of the region’s people and – where possible – use raw materials from the region.’ The history of Symrise is closely connected with Nigeria. With its Scent & Care and Flavour & Nutrition segments, the company has been active in the African country for more than 30 years. During this time, Symrise has worked intensively to familiarise itself with the local markets. Beyond this, the team has built close and lasting relationships with customers. The goal of the new application labs is to incorporate customer preferences and market requirements in regional product development and with speed. Symrise will also employ three new lab specialists. With more than 190 million inhabitants, Nigeria is by far the

most populous African nation and a key regional economy. ‘With this new investment, we are enhancing our footprint

in the region and intensifying our long-term commitment to Nigeria and west Africa,’ McLean concludes.

Rudy McLean, pictured second from the left, with Symrise executives and special guests, who attend the launch of the new labs in Nigeria

Avon embraces clean beauty with Distillery

OPENING UP AVON to new and existing customers looking for beauty that delivers results but is also conscious of its impact on the environment and respectful about ingredients, the new Distillery collection offers huge potential for driving the company’s brand rejuvenation and growth. Distillery is backed by an innovative Instagram virtual distillery to create an engaging journey to purchase, creating increased access to Avon for online beauty consumers. Avon’s chief beauty and brand officer, James Thompson, believes its millions-strong global network of representatives will be excited about the opportunity to share this game-changing clean beauty collection with their networks. ‘Compelling concepts

like clean beauty without compromise not only keep Avon relevant and on-trend in the fast-moving, modern beauty space, but also help make our representatives a “destination”,’ he explains. ‘They're offering something consumers can’t get anywhere else – the choice to select the products that suit their beauty preferences with personal service and accessible prices.’ Louise Scott, Avon’s chief scientific officer, adds: ‘Avon has always been committed to delivering high performing products while also considering our impact on the planet. With Distillery, we’re taking another step on that journey by leveraging our cutting-edge science and top quality ingredients to create a collection that is both pure and potent but also eco-conscious. We know there are a growing number of consumers who are more conscious about what they put on their skin and their impact on the planet. We’re now proudly able to offer clean beauty products that don’t compromise on performance.’ By distilling the formulas down to their essence, a more potent concentration is delivered for powerful results and less impact on the environment. Only containing the purest ingredients and nothing unnecessary, each product in this disruptive new collection is formulated without alcohol, fragrance, artificial dyes, mineral oil, essential oil or chemical sunscreens, and seven of the nine products are waterless. The collection launched with the five skin care products first, including C-Shot, a silky powder of vitamin C to be added to serum or moisturiser for an instant glow; the Clean Break Cleanser with 70 percent pure pressed apricot oil; and the Purify Facial Oil – a sumptuously silky oil to purify and renew skin with a custom blend of jojoba oil, phytol, vitamin E and cloudberry. The makeup range will follow in early 2020.

“Manufacturers of self adhesive labels, shrink sleeves, folding cartons, sachets & wrappers.” Email quotes@clomark.com

ISO 9001: 2015

Telephone 011-314 5444

LEVEL 1 B-BBEE

Website www.clomark.com

ISO 14001: 2015

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

STREET 1

1 Hemp oil body lotion Playgirl and Playboy have revealed new formulations in their lotion line-up following the launch of the range of lotions in October 2018. Sensuous is the new launch in the Playgirl Body Lotions range and features an enticing mix of vanilla base notes highlighted with bergamot, lemon and peach top notes. The Playboy range has been be bolstered by the new Playboy Code Black Body Lotion which includes Hemp Oil Complex.

2 Now in South Africa For 125 years, ChapStick has given people awesome reasons to smile. The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s number one lip care brand* is now available in South Africa to soothe, heal, moisturise and protect lips. The Classic variant put ChapStick on the map while the newer 100 percent Natural Lip Butters are free from artificial colours, flavours or fragrances, are paraben free and formulated with naturally sourced mango, avocado and shea butters. ChapStick is available in Dischem and Clicks nationwide.

3 Get photo-finish skin

DermaFix has launched a BB Cream Primer, which promises to provide a perfect foundation for a flawless complexion. Lightweight and non-greasy, the BB Cream Primer is formulated with aloe vera, jojoba seed oil, chamomile flower extract, lemon fruit extract, horsetail extract, hops extract, pine tree cone extract and rosemary leaf extract to hydrate, smooth and prepare skin for the perfect makeup application.

4 Out of the shower freshness Deodorant brand Shower to Shower has announced the addition of a new anti-perspirant spray to its popular deodorant range. The new anti-perspirant spray is available in Shower to Shower Confident Me, offering up to 48-hour protection from sweat and odour. The addition of Soothex means the range is gentler on the underarm area.

5 Roll-on cuticle oil

3 8

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

My Abby Abyssinian Cuticle Oil is developed and produced in South Africa. This gorgeous little hand and nail product, packaged with a nifty roll-on applicator, forms part of the natural My Abby beauty range. The range is vegan; GMO, silicone and artificial colourant free; and formulated with the miracle touch of Ecocert approved Abyssinian Oil. The oil is cold pressed from the seeds of the Crambe abyssinica plant, native to Ethiopia, and complemented in the formulation with nourishing vitamin E. The cuticle oil is non-greasy, feels silky, and hydrates and softens skin.

Learn how to lead and succeed in the competitive world of beauty

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SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW Date:

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Time:

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• Early bird Tickets Released! Book before 30 November and save!

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• Early bird special: R1 125 per person including VAT • Tickets booked after 30 November: R1 495 per person including VAT • You will receive a full breakdown of the day once you have booked and paid for your ticket as well as a breakdown of all the speakers. • To register, send an e-mail to Natalie.DaSilva@newmedia.co.za with the names and surnames of your conference delegates.

EVENTS

Scientific conference and industry expo close on a high note! The first ever HPCI South Africa expo took place in Johannesburg, in conjunction with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ annual scientific conference. On 4 and 5 September, visitors headed Gallagher Convention Centre to attend both the conference and expo, devoted exclusively to showcasing ingredients for home and personal care products.

Table 1: Coschem scientific conference presentations

PCI South Africa featured

This year also marks his 20th year

25 exhibitors representing

as chairperson.

87 international companies. It was attended by more than

René Spada of Evonik South Africa and the president of Coschem, comments:

500 buyers from the personal care and

‘Coschem plays a key role in driving

home care markets, who were equally

targeted strategies for innovation in Africa,

satisfied with this premiere event.

in ensuring the needs of consumers

The expo is based on the concept

are understood and met through the

of knowledge exchange, business

use of targeted formulations. It is our

interaction and networking, providing a

responsibility to assist consumers to

platform for suppliers and buyers to come

embrace their individuality, accept what’s

together and discuss new products and

unique to them and be proud of it.’

respective needs. Organised by SOFW Journal and Vincentz Network, HPCI South Africa has set a target to become a leading industry expo on the African continent for personal and home care.

HPCI South Africa expo has set a target to become a leading event

Exhibitors included AMA Laboratories, Ayanda African Oils, Brenntag South

Based on feedback received on the

Africa, Carst & Walker SA, CJP Chemicals,

conference, delegates said the scientific

Croda SA, Cosmetic Ingredients co-

programme was professional, informative

located with Quantum Colours, Dia-Stron,

and included a range of diverse topics

DST Cosmeceutical Platform, Evonik

and professional presenters. The full list of

Industries, Fourchem, Kaza Natural

presentations is included in Table 1.

Oils, Millchem, Mireuxus, Orkila South Africa, Protea Chemicals, Savannah

Safety assessment seminar

Fine Chemicals, Solvay Polymers &

The DGK IKW Safety Assessor Seminar,

Chemicals, Symrise, The Care Co.,

organised with the support of Cosmetic,

Unicare Ingredients and Vantage

Toiletries & Fragrance Association of

Specialty Chemicals.

South Africa (CTFA), took place on the second day of the expo and conference.

Scientific conference

This seminar focused on relevant issues

In addition to the show, the Coschem

pertaining to the safety of cosmetics.

annual scientific conference offered

The German Cosmetic, Toiletry,

an extensive programme of lectures

Perfumery and Detergent Association

focusing on the dissemination of scientific

(IKW) and the German Society for

information. Local and international

Scientific and Applied Cosmetics (DGK)

presenters shared papers outlining

shared their unique training concept

research and development in the

during the seminar, giving prospective

cosmetics industry and new materials

safety assessors and interested individuals

that can be brought to market.

an opportunity to learn about innovations

Based on the theme of ‘innovating the possibility, the conference is central to

and gain hands on experience. The next HPCI South Africa expo will take

the ongoing development of the African

place in Johannesburg, in September

cosmetics industry. Wayne van Wyk of

2020, in conjunction with the Coschem

Vantage and chairperson of the scientific

annual scientific conference.

committee has been organising the

Visit www.hpci-events.com/south-

scientific conference for the past 20 years.

africa/ for more information. •

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

DAY ONE Recent Developments of Sunscreens: UV or Light Protection by Juergen Lademann, Charite- Universitaetsmedizi Berlin, Germany Intellectual Property, Indigenous Knowledge, and the Biodiversity Act Effect on Cosmetic Product Development by Janusz Luterek, Hahn & Hahn, South Africa An Indigenous South African Plant Targeting Antibiotic Resistance and the Pathogenic Factors associated with Acne Vulgaris by Isa Lambrechts, University of Pretoria, South Africa Stop Motion: Languages of City Life: Architectural Fabric and Facets of Human Existence by Hugh Fraser, Paragon Architects, South Africa A Multi-Lamellar Encapsulated form of Retinol proves Superiority in Formulation Stability, Skin Penetration and Superior Skin Rejuvenating Results by Caroline Cochrane, The Care Co., South Africa The Role of Fermentation and Natural Actives in the Wrinkle Revolution by Bianca Fibrich, University of Pretoria, South Africa Enduring Care and Protection for Damaged Hair by Vinayak Rupnar, Dow Chemical IMEA GmbH, Dubai If Continuous Visualisation of Facial Skin Hydration is the Ideal - How can we Assess in Regular Practice? by Beverley Summers, Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University, South Africa Microorganisms in Cosmetics - Species, Resistances and Vulnerability by Vanessa Lahn, Evonik Nutrition & Care, Germany The African Opportunity by Beverley Gardner, Skyem Consulting, South Africa Clinical Efficacy Assessments to Evaluate Skin Barrier Repair and Protection Claims by Anina van der Walt, Lumen Regulatory Solutions, South Africa Choice is Beautiful – Creating the Texture you like while Reducing the Amount of Ingredients by Petra Kudla, Momentive Performance Materials, Germany Importance of Standards of Essential Oils in South Africa used in the Cosmetic Industry by Karen Swanepoel, SA Essential Oil Producers Association, South Africa Tailored Replenishment for Damaged African Hair by Lumbi Moyo, Croda, South Africa DAY TWO Keynote Address – Innovating with Minimally Disruptive Formulations (MDF) by Tony O’ Lenick, Siltech LLC, USA, IFSCC International Speaker Programme Halymenia Durvillei: Interest of the Alga for Skin Stressed by Exposome by Edith Filaire, Greentech, France A Jar is Born by Sean Kirkham, Teqal, South Africa Processed Probiotics, the new revolution for a healthy beauty: Lactobacillus Plantarum Heal 19 by Ev Suess, Symrise, Germany 3D Innovative Epidermis Models as a New Tool to Assess Tolerance of Cosmetic Ingredients for Specific Applications by Anna Mommeja, Seppic, France Kinetic Study of Scalp Sensitivity Symptoms that occur on the Scalp of African Women during Three Weeks, after a Single Wash using a Neutral Shampoo by Poonam Sewraj, L’Oréal, South Africa

EVENTS

Coschem conference & HPCI expo highlights

Coschem gala dinner celebrations

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

2019

DIARY

RE V IE W

ood f

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

SOUTH AFRICAN

WHAT'S ON IN

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Coschem year-end luncheon (JHB)

14 November Venue: Casalinga Restaurant, Muldersdrift www.coschem.co.za

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| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

January 2020 Cosme Tokyo

20 to 22 January Makuhari Messe, Japan www.cosmetokyo.jp/en

PHARMA FOCUS//Made in SA

A specialist South African business Hersol is a registered pharma manufacturing company. It specialises in producing and packing complementary medicines for various South African marketing and distribution companies. It has become a world class business dedicated to the South African pharma industry. 1

ounded in 1980 by Laurence Solomons and Sam Hertzakowitz, Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Hersol) has grown

Hersol is proudly South African in all areas of production and packing

exponentially. Fast forward to 2019, the Johannesburg-based company remains

equipment. By default, the company was

party companies, ensuring accuracy and

a key player in the complementary

able to improve on its efficiency, while

precision at all times.

medicines (CAMs) manufacturing

continuing to support local suppliers.

A top notch facility

Today Hersol occupies over 12 000m² of manufacturing and warehousing space and testing laboratories, employing approximately

Two senior microbiologists and a micro laboratory assistant are employed in the

landscape in South Africa.

Over the years, Hersol has

established extensive facilities DID that feature, among other YOU KNOW? things, a fully equipped Hersol’s plant complies with the

South African Health Products laboratory to ensure Regulatory Authority and Good the quality of raw Manufacturing Practice. During at various levels. The 2012, the facility was expanded, materials and finished company is run by a which saw Hersol grow products. The modern its presence in the South African competent management market and standing out in the manufacturing areas team, which oversees highly competitive field of used for granulation, pharma manufacturing. all aspects of production. compression, encapsulation The team’s mantra is ‘built-in and coating put the company quality, delivery, and price’.

400 qualified people

Using state of the art technology, the company manufactures a wide variety of dosage forms specifically tailored to

micro laboratory, while the QC manager and a laboratory manager oversee its efficient running. The laboratory has been accredited by the National Department of Health, which issues a certificate of compliance. Hersol’s micro lab is home to some of the few Biolumix systems used in South Africa, ensuring a quicker turnaround for lab results compared to the conventional method of five days.

Community upliftment Hersol plays a critical role in uplifting the

in the upper ranks of pharmaceutical

community of the Johannesburg CBD and

production, in South Africa.

provides otherwise unemployed people with

In an ever-changing local context,

jobs, skills and employment. Being situated next to Maboneng,

local market demands and in line with

Hersol is unique in generating its

the latest global trends. It can pack

own power supply, which gives

which has become a celebrated hub for

products using all types of packing

the company the advantage of

inner-city living the areas surrounding

specifications including blister packs.

uninterrupted production time.

Hersol have undergone gentrification

Even with the advent of new

Hersol is proudly South African in all

and many businesses and buildings have received facelifts.

technology, Hersol remains relevant,

areas of production and packing. Its

cutting edge and quality driven. The

finished product laboratory consists of

In line with the spirit of regeneration,

expansion of its manufacturing plant

experienced staff who are responsible

the company is pro-active in providing

in 2012 indicated a pivotal moment

for analysing all products, based on

employment opportunities to ensure

in Hersol’s growth as a South African

validated methods. All the instruments

compliance with transformational

company, as it flourished through

used to perform the required tests are

objectives. With the inception of a training

automation and with new lines and

calibrated by SANAS accredited third

programme for its staff members, the

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

Made in //SA PHARMA FOCUS 3

1: Hersol’s friendly and helpful receptionist, Betty Metseeme 2: The wet chemical lab 3: Hersol’s automated encapsulating machine 4: HPLC testing equipment at Hersol 5: Tablet counting machine 6: Film coating equipment at Hersol

The expertise of Hersol’s marketing and distribution division caters to the development of new products, offering a total turnkey solution from conception to finished product. Its customers are offered an individual image and product concept, which is why Hersol is regarded as having the potential to manufacture on a par with some of the world’s leading

third party manufacturers. Hersol’s corporate culture is central to its ongoing success, offering company has become a cutting edge South African pharma

integrity, trust, quality and the highest standard of service excellence.

manufacturer. Its CEO, directors and management team have

The company has a bright future – one that’s filled many more years of

many years of experience in the industry, in a South African

manufacturing in South Africa, for the South African market. •

context, and ensure the smooth running of all areas and aspects of the company.

Hersol – www.hersol.co.za

Hersol also works very closely with Chemical Industries Education & Training Authority, CHIETA. This collaboration assists in ongoing and relevant training for its staff members with the end goal of ensuring compliance with the relevant industry regulatory bodies. Its board of directors, with their vast pharma knowledge and highly technical skills, constantly strives to improve the quality standards of the products manufactured at Hersol. Not only does the company hold its own brand of complementary medicines to the highest standard but also a huge part of its ethos remains in ensuring everything manufactured at Hersol is of the highest quality.

An innovative edge By working with marketing and distribution companies and using the latest trends and using technologies, Hersol has the edge and the ability to launch innovative products. The main function of its sales and marketing department is to create new products offered at any stage of the development process for new and existing customers, some of which are leading retail pharmacy groups and top private brands in the country. The company can also provide an innovative approach to upgrading existing products currently on the market as well as the total replication of existing products.

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

PHARMA FOCUS//Made in SA

Committed to manufacturing ARVs locally Cipla continues to build its rich heritage as a South African pharma manufacturer. The company has been awarded a share of government’s national ARVs tender; the contract came into effect on 1 July and is valid for three years.

uring his State of the Nation

firm commitment to meet the National

transportation providers, no other sector

Address, President Cyril

Department of Health’s anticipated

stimulates the economy and generates

Ramaphosa indicated the

volume requirements for ARVs.’

broadscale growth as much as

country would focus intensely on

manufacturing does.

implementing the 90-90-90 Strategy to end

A world class facility

HIV as a public health threat. This strategy

As a result of the multiple

with expertise in international

includes increasing the number of people

benefits of TLD, such as improved

manufacturing practices. The

on treatment by at least another two million

tolerability and a higher resistance

site also includes a full, on site

by December 2020.

barrier, government is transitioning

engineering support team to

CMM employs 300 people

The Department of Health estimates

patients from TEE to TLD this year.

more than 4.5 million South Africans are

Yet the transition is taking longer

on life-saving antiretroviral treatment. This

than anticipated. As a result, the

accounts for 20 percent of all people

volumes of TEE required are more than

on treatment globally, making SA’s HIV

originally forecast in the original tender.

treatment programme the biggest in the Research Council.

is capacity to produce 1.5 million units of TEE monthly as well as large volumes of TLD. This

learned of its success in the ARVs tender

means the company will

for TEE (comprising tenofovir, emtricitabine

manufacture its tender

and efavirenz) and TLD – a combination

allocation locally,

of tenofovir (TDF), lamivudine (3TC) and

reducing the reliance

dolutegravir (DTG).

on imports. CMM is one

Cipla has worked closely with the State

of the largest pharma

The facility runs turnkey manufacturing, packaging and testing solutions for all solid dosage

manufacturing plant in Durban, there

largest pharmaceutical manufacturer, Cipla

control team, which focuses on technology transfer.

At CMM, Cipla’s world-class

world, according to the Human Sciences In February 2019, South Africa’s third

maintain equipment and a quality

Pau l Miller

formulations. The manufacturing area is fully equipped for wet

DID YOU KNOW?

granulation, including effervescent granules; direct compression, including

Manufacturing in Africa hard gelatine capsules; for Africa is imperative, high speed tabletting considering the sector’s and aqueous and contribution to South Africa’s solvent coating. GDP, which dropped from 21 As products are percent in 1994 to 13.2 percent in 2018. created and the associated

on previous tenders to ensure people

manufacturing plants

have access to ARVs. This is in line with its

approved by the South African

pioneering legacy. In 2001, the company

Health Products Regulatory

produced the first three-in-one fixed-dose

Authority (SAHPRA) and the Ghana FDA.

pharma manufacturing – the multiplier

In line with President Ramaphosa’s

effect becomes even more profound. A

combination drug, at a cost of less than

production processes increase in complexity – which is the case in

USD$1 per day – compared to the per

focus on economic transformation,

recent article on South Korea underpins

patient cost of more than USD$12 000

job creation and stimulating local

this statement. ‘South Korea used to

annually – allowing countless patients

manufacturing, Cipla has invested

be one of the poorest countries in

access to quality ARVs.

significantly in ramping up its local

the world, but thanks to investment in

production facilities.

manufacturing in the country as well

Paul Miller, CEO of Cipla Medpro, comments: ‘We want to build on our rich

as in education and human capital, it

heritage and continue to foresee a future

Broadscale growth

has transformed into one of the leading

where good health is expected, not for the

Because of its relationship with

economies’. Could the same be said for

few, but for many. As a result, we’ve given our

suppliers, including packaging and

the future of South Africa? •

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

ADVERTORIAL

Sensient supports local production with innovative solutions Sensient Technologies Corporation is dedicated to the growth of products made in South Africa by offering locally manufactured excipients to the pharmaceutical and nutraceuticals markets. We welcome you to visit our plant in Johannesburg to see how new innovations are brought to life each day for South African consumers.

ver the years, Sensient Technologies Corporation (Sensient) has been following global shifts in the nutraceutical and pharmaceutical markets. As a result, it’s developed a variety of consumer driven solutions, made available to the local market through Sensient’s South African operations. Sensient is one of the leading manufacturers within South Africa for sugar and film coating solutions for the pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries. Sensient South Africa was established over 17 years ago and employs approximately 30 employees across the country, with an increasing growing revenue year on year. The South African office manufactures a range of products from tablet coatings and lake/dye blends to sugar coating solutions and more.

MASTERCOTE The Mastercote range of products is mainly used in panned products for pharmaceutical and food industries: • sugar, oil or cellulose based colour solutions • easy to use with high solutions solids and high colour content • two-year shelf life based on high sugar content/brix • manufactured in South Africa.

FLEXICOAT The Flexicoat coating system offers instant release, enteric or sustained release functions, and/or moisture barrier properties: • high solids PVA/Metha-acrylic aqueous coating • replacement for traditional solvent coating solutions

“Sensient Technologies Corporation is dedicated to the growth of products made in South Africa” • customisable to your brand’s standards • ideal for brand identification or trademark protection • batch to batch consistency • excellent adhesive properties for difficult to coat cores • high tensile strength, eliminating tablet coating defects • manufactured in South Africa.

offering bright, vivid colours in tablet applications through opacifying agents, a simple, clean label can be achieved with comparable cost in use to the traditional titanium dioxide coating. Sensient South Africa is equipped to commercialise Spectrablend TFN locally based on demand. •

COLOUR SOLUTIONS Sensient’s colour solution products are made specifically for syrups, suspensions, beverage applications and more. This portfolio includes a wide variety of dyes and lakes to blend into any application, and oil soluble and lake blends for pharmaceutical grade ointments, creams and lotions. The colour solutions are also manufactured in South Africa.

SPECTRABLEND TFN Over the years, Sensient has been closely following the global shift away from titanium dioxide and innovating for nutraceutical and pharmaceutical manufacturers interested in cleaner ingredient alternatives. The company has developed Spectrablend TFN (Titanium Free Natural) for brands that want to remove TiO2 from their label. This premium, cost-effective coating system provides natural opacity in a mineral free coating system. By

Sensient Technologies Corporation is a global manufacturer and supplier of natural and synthetic colour/ flavour solutions for the pharmaceutical, cosmetics, food and beverage, and industrial markets.

Sensient Technologies South Africa E-mail: patricia.kruger@sensient.com Website: www.sensient.com

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

PHARMA FOCUS//Made in SA

Building confidence in the local market

Investment in skilled workers is vital for a stronger local manufacturing industry. Ongoing technological advancements and a rich arsenal of skills are just some of the elements needed for a flourishing manufacturing sector and economy. Yet, the latest statistics from STATS SA reveal a gloomier state of affairs for the manufacturing sector.

hile the numbers reflect negative growth, economists remain optimistic a weak exchange rate will lead

to an increase in manufacturing export competitiveness. This would be beneficial to industries across the board. As the local manufacturer of WAP pressure washers and cleaning machinery, Industroclean’s MD, Emma Corder is confident remaining focused on the strengths within a business will be the key to much-needed growth within the sector. She believes success is more than just delivering a product that works. ‘The WAP formula for success is based on a combination of product and service excellence,’ she explains. ‘Instead of just supplying a sophisticated piece of cleaning

Industroclean’s WAP maintenance and service is backed 100 percent by spares availability

machinery, WAP has always endeavoured to provide a package deal – a first rate product coupled with first grade service and maintenance network.’

An experienced team The design process is currently overseen by WAP national service Manager, Peter Bolitho. He works with a team of machine assembly

80 percent of the WAP machine makeup is from our local supplier base

technicians who collectively have over 70

is built to the highest standard that my

years’ service at Industroclean.

team and I can offer,’ he comments.

‘Through the years, their experience

Industroclean’s WAP maintenance

has facilitated many improvements to the

and service is backed 100 percent by

WAP brand,’ Corder explains. ‘Quality of

spares availability.

materials and parts are paramount, and

Providing a full service backing and the

improvements have been made where

latest technology allows the company to

necessary. New materials and technology

set the pace in the industry and stay one

do emerge at times – these are tested for

step ahead of their opposition.

their probability to further improve the WAP machines.’ Nico Ngwenya, one of Industroclean’s

Benefitting the supply chain ‘All machines are designed and

WAP production team members, has 28

manufactured locally. That’s really

years’ experience with the brand. He says

important to us. We try to source from

its highly honourable working

local suppliers as much as possible.

in manufacturing.

Approximately 80 percent of the WAP

‘I feel very proud every time a machine is tested at the end of assembly. I feel I can share my years of experience with customers and I like to make sure every machine built,

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

designs, which have evolved to keep up with the latest trends. Special attention is given to simplicity of operation, equipment reliability, protection against operator mishandling and easy component accessibility. All of the machines are fail-safe, powerful in performance and economical when it comes to operating costs. Designs are quite compact, yet robust and constructed for a lifespan. WAP pressure washers are used by major industries throughout South Africa and aub-Saharan Africa, from pharma manufacturing and mining to logistics, heavy engineering, construction, agriculture and automotive industries. ‘Supplying various industries is a big deal for us, as the demand for our products represents growth and sustainability for our business and employees,’ Corder concludes. •

machine makeup is from our local supplier base,’ adds Corder. The machines are built to the specifications of the patented original WAP

Industroclean – www.industroclean.co.za

ADVERTORIAL

Seppic launches a natural, ethical alternative to microplastics

Sepifine BB, Seppic’s new ethically sourced texturising powder, offers a velvety soft skin finish and is backed by a great story of benefit sharing and community upliftment in Brazil. “Sepifine BB is water and oil dispersible and functions primarily as a texturising agent for skin care and makeup applications” can also be used to formulate biodegradable finished products with high naturality, without losing the performance of traditional ingredients.

A NATURAL CHOICE FOR SENSORIAL COSMETICS

preservative free. It also responds to consumers’ expectations for raw materials that benefit the planet.

VERSATILE AND EASY TO USE Sepifine BB is water and oil dispersible and functions primarily as a texturising agent for skin care and makeup applications. It is versatile for gel creams, emulsions and powders. Its velvety skin sensation also improves the afterfeel of sun care lotions. The improved oil absorption of Sepifine BB offers the long term sebum control associated with speciality texturising powders. Nonoily and ultra-light, it can be used across a broad range of beauty care formulations. This new ingredient

Tel: +27 (0)11 494 6700 E-mail: info@cjpchemicals.co.za Website: www.cjpchemicals.co.za

www.seppic.com Tel: +27 11 494 6700 | info@cjpchemicals.co.za | www. cjpchemicals.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 | ©Unsplash

biodegradable and 100 percent bio-sourced texturising powder, Sepifine BB is derived from Brazilian babassu. The ethical sourcing of the babassu is validated by Origens Brasil, an organisation that assures the equitable sharing of economic resources throughout the supply chain among communities from the region. Registered under the trade name Sepifine BB, this and other Seppic products are available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals. Sepifine BB is a starch based ingredient, which provides a high performance alternative to synthetic texturising powders. The texturising powder is produced using low impact solvents and is GMO and

Sepifine BB is a natural choice for formulators looking for next generation of texturising powders. This ingredient is the result of Seppic’s partnership with Atina Ativos Naturais, which has created and marketed a range of natural products following a cradle to cradle approach. Courtney Clay, a Seppic product manager, states: ‘Sepifine BB meets the growing demand for biodegradable texturising powders without losing the performance of traditional sensory agents. Seppic’s expertise in sensory ingredients and engagement in sustainable chemistry has provided a product that reduces the global footprint and meets the requirements of today’s personal care consumer.’ •

SKIN & FACE CARE

Hemp hype hits an all-time high CBD has evolved from being a trendy skin care ingredient into a bona-fide beauty category. Marketing experts at Düllberg Konzentra, a global producer of essential oils and perfume oils for the beauty and fragrance industries, look at past and present developments around hemp and the exciting future of essential hemp oil in the beauty industry.

here are many aspects of hemp. Explaining the rising interest in hemp, Düllberg Konzentra’s marketing executive, Lisa-Marie

Cannabis flower essential oil is of particular interest to the cosmetics and fragrance industries

hemp paper. For centuries, hemp was the

of consumers and quite rightly opened up

Achilles and head of marketing and

product of choice for ropes and canvas,

many new applications for the ingredient,’

evaluation, Christian Lüke, comment: ‘For

thanks to its elasticity, weather resistance

says Achilles. ‘The other main component

years, it was all about its intoxicating effect,

and durability. Levi Strauss’ very first trousers

of the plant, hemp seed, was used as

but this has changed. Now, the focus is on

for gold miners were also made from hemp.

food for centuries but gradually became

the positive properties of hemp with the

In the fashion world, hemp has been

industry waking up to just how beneficial

experiencing a renaissance since the ’90s.

the plant is.’

Hemp fabric is breathable, stays fresh for

Cannabis, the plant’s botanical name,

forgotten. Hemp seed recently made a comeback as a superfood.’ Hemp seeds and hemp seed oil

long and requires less washing. As a rule,

contain an abundance of minerals

has a long history. It is one of the oldest

no chemicals are needed for growing and

and nutrients. The oil can be used

crop plants known to humans. In ancient

harvesting hemp, which gives the renewable

in the kitchen as well as in technical

China, ropes made of hemp fibre sourced

and undemanding crop an eco-footprint

applications and animal feed.

from plants’ stems, were in use around

that is superior to many other fibres.

3 000 BC and over 2 000 years ago,

Achilles explains: ‘Traditionally hemp seed oil is also used in naturopathy, where

hemp was used to make textiles. The

Natural and nutritious

it is believed to prevent inflammation and

Gutenberg Bible, the first printed book in

‘The huge trend towards greater

soothe skin conditions. In cosmetics, it is

the world, and the American Declaration of

naturalness and sustainability is here to

used in creams and ointments and as a

Independence were both produced using

stay. This has brought hemp to the attention

massage oil.’

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

SKIN & FACE CARE A GUIDE TO HEMP • THE NARCOTIC COMPONENT of hemp is THC. This psychoactive compound is mainly contained in the resin of the plant. • Cannabidiol (CBD) is a cannabinoid believed to have an anticonvulsant and anxiolytic effect. In Germany, it is classed as a food supplement. CBD is used in over the counter and prescription medications and is presently the subject of ongoing research. • Marijuana (also called grass, weed or pot) is the dried, resinous flowers and leaves found on the female hemp plant. Hashish is the pressed resin of these parts of the plant. • Hemp seed oil is cold pressed from hemp seeds and can be used as a healthy oil in the kitchen, like linseed oil. • Cannabis flower essential oil is produced by distilling hemp flowers and leaves and is used in cosmetics and beauty products.

The hemp contained in these cosmetic

psychoactive active substance of hemp – and all reputable producers adhere to them.

‘The challenge lies in delivering a uniformly high quality. The composition

The focus on cannabidiol, commonly

of the essential hemp oil depends on

known as CBD, is another reason why the

several factors, including the type of

hype around hemp has hit an all-time high.

plant and its origin,’ says Lüke. ‘The exact

According to Düllberg Konzentra, the CBD

time of harvest also plays a role, because

compound is usually sold in combination

as the flower develops, the spectrum

with hemp seed oil.

of the components in the essential

‘Products containing CBD are said to

oil changes.’

have a relaxing, anti-anxiety effect, but they are not psychoactive,’ says Achilles.

Fortunately, essential hemp oil is not yet mainstream. Achilles explains: ‘This aspect is exactly what makes it the ideal

Essential hemp oil

product to add a new twist to the beauty

Cannabis flower essential oil, extracted by

segment. It is ideal for use in cosmetics,

steam distillation from the leaves and fresh

perfumes and massage oils, and equally

flowers of the plant, is of particular interest

so in food and beverages, like iced tea,

to the cosmetics and fragrance industries.

cough lozenges an even chocolate.’

‘Essential hemp oil is in fact the most

Lüke believes hemp has finally shed

sensual hemp product. It contains alpha-

its ‘seedy’ image. ‘It is an incredibly

pinene, which is reminiscent of cedar and

versatile plant and a great rediscovery.

pine, and limonene, a major component

I am certain hemp is heading towards a

of lemon and bitter orange peel,’

brilliant career in the cosmetics, beauty

comments Lüke.

and wellness segments.’ •

Essential hemp oil does not contain

preparations is not likely to be intoxicating.

psychoactive THC. Extracting and

There are guidelines in Germany and

processing it is a complex process; one

Switzerland pertaining to the content

kilogram of flowers yields a mere 1.5mℓ

of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) – the

of oil.

Düllberg Konzentra – www.duellberg-konzentra.de/en

ABOUT NATURE

Many companies in the perfume world appear to be virtually identical. But subtle differences exist. At Düllberg Konzentra, it´s the technologies that enable us to create products of exceptional purity and quality. It´s the creativity that goes into creating new fragrances. It´s the expertise and passion with which our employees ensure our customer´ success.

Düllberg Konzentra. The subtle difference in perfumery.

www.duellberg-konzentra.de

SOFW Journal 210x104mm.indd 1

10.09.19 09:04

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

SKIN & FACE CARE

Afrisil Speciality Ingredients appointed as Symrise’s new local distributor Symrise continues to strengthen its Cosmetic Ingredients division, to closely align innovations to customer and market requirements. Part of its renewed strategy in South Africa includes the appointment of a new distributor.

Marcel van Rooyen, sales director: South Africa & SSA, Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients Division and Karin Barends, director of Afrisil Speciality Ingredients

successful history with Symrise and in-depth

skin. Hydrolite 5 green is Symrise’s eco-

knowledge of the company’s products and

friendly and sustainable pentylene glycol

technologies, making this new distribution

offering, which is also 100 percent bio-

partnership a good fit for both businesses.

based and Cosmos approved. PCL Liquid

Marcel van Rooyen, sales director: South

is a mixture of branched alkyl fatty acid

Africa & SSA, Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients

esters used as a unique emollient which

Division, comments: ‘Having a distributor

provides outstanding skin suppleness.

onboard enables Symrise’s world class

Isodragol is a light ester that offers an

ingredients to be made available in smaller

excellent skin feel in skin care products.

quantities to customers of all sizes.’

frisil Speciality Ingredients is

Solubilizer by Symrise is a non-ionic combination of a fatty alcohol polyglycol

proud to be associated with

Ingredients in focus

ether and hydrogenated castor oil

Symrise as its new distributor

Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients division

ethoxylate. It solubilises perfume oils,

for the South African market.

continues to enjoy rapid growth. Its

essential oils and other hydrophobic

Established by Karin Barends as an

specialist areas of focus include

substances in pure aqueous and

independent company, in association with

actives, botanicals, functionals and

aqueous-alcoholic systems. •

Afrisil, Afrisil Speciality Ingredients is Level 2

UV filters, as well as a strong focus on

BEEE contributor.

micro protection.

Afrisil was founded by Mike Butt in

SymReboot L19 is a novel ingredient

2008 as a distributor of silicone products

opening brand new perspectives in the

for the African market. Barends has a

field of microbiotic solutions for sensitive

We are pleased to announce Afrisil as our new partner for the distribution of cosmetic ingredients in South Africa www.symrise.com Unbenannt-1 1

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

Afrisil Speciality Ingredients – karin@afrisil.com Symrise – www.symrise.com

Contact: Karin Barends Technical Sales Manager Email: Karin@afrisil.com Visit us on: www.afrisil.com

27.09.19 13:53

SKIN & FACE CARE

The quest to balance and support skin Microbiome skin care has established itself in the marketplace – initially as a focus of niche brands, it’s now evident in mainstream brands too. But what do we really know about the skin microbiome? Harald van der Hoeven and Dr Heiko Prade of CLR Berlin share their knowledge.

irtually every day

knowledge in defining potentially

The study was performed on the

new species of

good active ingredients that can

inner forearm. After challenging the

microorganisms are

support claims based on ‘balancing’

skin by tape stripping, the kinetic of

discovered on the skin.

and ‘supporting’ skin microbiota.

the re-establishment of the original

The focus should be on the

microbial balance was determined.

Some species are associated with skin diseases, while others

microbial environment, for which the

are considered one of the

skin provides important components

good microbes. But no species can be considered 100 percent harmless. S epidermidis,

– molecules that regulate skin

DID YOU KNOW?

pH, for example, and antimicrobial peptides.

The interaction Tape stripping is a standardised way to challenge commonly with the ‘healthy’ skin microbiota, while washing recognised as microbes will with a harsh cleanser is difficult to standardise when performing an good, is only good influence the efficacy study. Yet both methods at a low enough differentiating severely alter the composition of the skin microbiota, which will try to regain keratinocytes in dose and on its original composition from within intact skin. It can such a way these the skin, essentially ‘renewing’ itself. Therefore, the results of the study be considered as a produce ingredients can be deemed relevant to so-called pathobiont. making the the cosmetics industry. On compromised

skin it can trigger severe

environment beneficial

to the microbes.

The study was designed as blinded intra-individual comparison of the effect of two different formulations and a corresponding placebo formulation on different, randomised locations. There were 17 participants included in the study. On day 0 tape-stripping was performed on three areas (A, B and C) while one area was not tape-stripped

Table 1

Area

Treatment

Placebo

One percent Fructooligosaccharides

Three percent PRC

Positive control (untreated, undamaged)

adverse effects. The application

An active ingredient that

of S epidermidis on sterilised skin

promotes the improvement of the

leads to severe disruption of the

epidermal differentiation process

quality of skin and barrier function.

should be beneficial to the skin

Another example is C acnes – a

microbiota. CLR Berlin, represented

commensal skin bacterium not

locally by IMCD South Africa, has

(D). Areas A, B and C were then

necessarily always a pathogen.

developed ProRenew Complex

treated with test products, as shown in

It can safely be concluded

CLR (PRC), a lysate of probiotic

Table 1, and the volunteers continued

there is no such thing as ‘good’

Lactococcus lactis, which has

applying test products twice daily for

and ‘bad’ bacteria. We should

been shown to improve epidermal

the subsequent seven days. Analysis

rather consider what is a healthy or

differentiation and is investigated

of the microbial community took place

unhealthy mix of microorganisms.

for its ability to support, balance

before tape stripping and two and

Healthy, non-diseased skin shows

and protect the skin microbiota.

seven days after tape stripping.

organisms whereas, with many

Focus on the study

Positive results

skin diseases, it’s clear the mix of

For the PRC efficacy study, an

Tape stripping led to significant

microbes is unhealthy, or at least

area of the skin was analysed

changes in the composition of the

partly pathogenic.

which shows both high richness

skin microbiota. Both diversity and

and diversity. This ground state

richness were reduced. After D2 and

The microbial environment

allows for the valid analysis of the

D7, subsequent to tape stripping, the

A healthy mix of skin microbiota has

activity of the active ingredient

microbial analysis showed interesting

important positive implications for

as both parameters are reduced

results on the richness and diversity of

skin’s physical barrier function. It also

significantly after disturbance of

both species. The treatment of the skin

positively influences the skin’s immune

the microbial composition under

with the formulation containing PRC

capacity. It’s opportune to use this

experimental conditions.

lead to an accelerated recovery of the

a mutualistic mix of micro-

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

SKIN & FACE CARE

Figure 1: Recovery of microbial richness (%)

Figure 2: Recovery of microbial diversity (%) at day seven

analysed. On all parameters it was shown that PRC outperforms both the corresponding placebo and the same formulation containing prebiotic fructooligosaccharides. Contrary to many prebiotics, probiotic lysates like PRC contain components which are known ligands for toll like receptors (TLR). Some of these molecules are situated in the membranes of (probiotic) bacterial cells. e.g. TLR2 is activated by bacterial lipoproteins, TLR4 is activated by lipopolysaccharides (LPS), peptidoglycan recognition protein (PGRP) is activated by peptidoglycan (PGN). The downstream signalling pathways used by these receptors can contribute to maintaining the

Figure 3: Difference between the positive control (%), ProRenew Complex CLR (three percent) in red, fructooligosaccharides (one percent) in grey

proliferation and differentiation status of skin cells as well as in strengthening the immune system. Several recent reports have suggested the functional outcomes of TLR and PGRP signalling have positive effects even on the antimicrobial defence system. The use of prebiotic molecules in the cosmetics industry is a common phenomenon, but the results of these studies show that positively influencing epidermal differentiation is a more powerful tool in balancing, supporting and protecting the skin microbiota. PRC, being a lysate of probiotic Lactococcus lactis – a postbiotic – interacts with the differentiating

richness of the species, whereas the

underlining the importance of

keratinocytes much in the same way

treatment with the same formulation

influencing the epidermal processes

as the healthy skin microbiota

containing fructooligosaccharides

which favour the skin health. Healthy

does. PRC cooperates with the skin

was not able to outperform the

skin has a healthy microbiome and

microbiota, which makes it an

corresponding placebo. The benefit of

this could be convincingly shown

essential component in overall skin

using PRC was already clearly visible

in these experiments. From these

health and quality. •

after two days of application. See

studies it can also be concluded

Figure 1: richness on area D was set at

that prebiotic approaches using

100 percent.

fructooligosaccharides do not suffice.

After seven days, the application of PRC lead to an improved recovery

Essential to skin health

of the diversity of species. PRC clearly

The environment or local

outperformed the same formulation

habitat dictates the microbial

containing fructooligosaccharides and

composition. For skin, the habitat

the placebo. See Figure 2: diversity on

is made available by differentiating

area D is set at 100 percent.

keratinocytes. As PRC positively

From the results obtained on

influences the quality of epidermal

the above parameters it can be

differentiation, it promotes a healthy

concluded that the topical application

microbiota on and in the skin. This was

of PRC promotes the skin’s ability to

proven in the aforementioned studies,

re-establish its microbiota after severe

performed with valid technologies

disruption. It clearly outperformed

where both the overall composition

prebiotic fructooligosaccharides,

and single abundant species were

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Dr Heiko Prade is a cosmetic scientist. After spending most of his career in research and product development, he joined CLR in 2013 as R&D director. Harald van der Hoeven joined CLR Berlin in 2006. He is the technical marketing director and interfaces between science and marketing.

CLR Berlin – www.clr-berlin.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

SKIN & FACE CARE

Highlight skin’s natural beauty with an eco-friendly extraction Lipotec Active Ingredients has established a subcritical water extraction technology to obtain enriched and environmentally conscious botanical extracts. By applying Phenobio subcritical water technology to stevia, it has developed the Stevisse advanced botanical ingredient, which has a retinoid-like mechanism. By Rosalia Mantilla, Olga Laporta, Elena Cañadas, Sylesh Venkataraman and Raquel Delgado

urrounded by iconic vineyards,

available in South Africa from Savannah

Saucats – a French region near

Fine Chemicals.

Figure 1: Percentage of fold change of upregulated antioxidant defence genes

Bordeaux between the Garonne

– is known worldwide for its exceptional

Natural gentler retinoid alternative

wine culture. The high quality of the

Retinoids are some of the most widely used

wines is thanks to the region’s excellent

and studied ingredients in the treatment

geological and meteorological

of skin ageing. They protect the main

conditions and the well-drained and

components of the extracellular matrix

nutrient rich soils. Even the air over the

from degradation by preventing

region is pure. According to the World

the production of matrix

Health Organization, the air quality in

metalloproteinases (MMPs).1, 2

River and the Atlantic Ocean

that part of the world is characterised

MMPs are a family of enzymes produced

by low levels of pollution and bright,

by several skin cells that participate in

unblemished skies. It’s also where Lipotec

the physiological turnover of extracellular

Active Ingredients established Phenobio

matrix proteins, such as collagen and

subcritical water extraction technology.

elastin. During the ageing process, and

This involves the manipulation of water

after UV exposure, the levels of MMPs

temperature and pressure causing the

increase and the extracellular matrix is

water to transform and its characteristics

degraded at a faster rate. This contributes

to modify. Subcritical water extraction

to accelerating the ageing process.

consists of the use of water at

Retinoids prevent the production of MMPs,

temperatures above boiling point and

helping to delay ageing.1

below the critical point and at pressures

Figure 2: Percentage of fold change of downregulated pro-inflammatory and MMPs genes

They can also target key pathways

that maintain water in a liquid state at

involved in the cellular response to

elevated temperatures. By adjusting

oxidative stress. Retinoids activate an

Positive efficacy test results

the extraction process to different

important cytoprotective transcription

Stevisse advanced botanical ingredient

temperature and pressure conditions, the

factor, NRF2, which, in the presence of

entails a retinoid-like mechanism that

behaviour of the water as a solvent can

oxidative stress, induces the transcription

minimises the appearance of wrinkles for

be changed, as its polarity may become

of diverse antioxidant genes such as heme

younger looking skin. Different in vitro and

similar to different organic solvents.

oxygenase-1 (HO-1), thioredoxin reductase

in vivo tests were performed to evaluate

(TXN) and the oxidative stress induced

its efficacy.

The technology also overcomes

Human dermal fibroblasts were treated

certain disadvantages of conventional

growth inhibitor 1 (OSGIN-1). These

solvent extractions such as extraction

enzymes can rapidly and co-ordinately

with 1.1 percent Stevisse advanced

time, the use of chemical solvents and

neutralise and remove harmful species to

botanical ingredient for 24 hours, while RNA

thermal degradation. It helps obtain eco-

protect the cell.3, 5

was purified from the cells and submitted

conscious enriched botanical extracts

Despite their rejuvenating potential, the

for microarray analysis. The expression

as it allows for the recovery of a broad

topical application of retinoids can lead

of HMOX1, TXNRD1 and OSGIN1 genes

spectrum of the plant’s phyto-actives

to an adverse effect known as ‘retinoid

experienced an increase of 954 percent,

without using harmful chemical solvents

reaction’, which is mainly characterised

209 percent and 261 percent, respectively.

that may damage the environment.

by an itching and burning sensation,

The upregulation of genes involved in the

This eco-friendly subcritical water

erythema, scaling and peeling of the

cellular response against oxidative stress

extraction has been applied to stevia

skin. Retinoids activate pro-inflammatory

suggest the improvement of antioxidant

to obtain Stevisse advanced botanical

pathways that induce key components

defence in the skin.

ingredient, an organic stevia leaf-based

related to the inflammatory response, such

extract with a retinoid-like mechanism.

as COX-2 (PTGS2), known to mediate pain,

also treated with 0.37 percent Stevisse

Stevisse advanced botanical ingredient is

redness and swelling.1

advanced botanical ingredient for

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

Human epidermal keratinocytes were

SKIN & FACE CARE Figure 3: Photographs of the crow’s feet area before and after 28 days’ treatment

active ingredient to visibly attenuate the appearance of wrinkles. •

REFERENCES: 1. Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H., Roeder, A. and Weindl, G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging. 1(4):327-348, 2006. 2. Tan, K., Kosuge, K., Yang, M., Ito, S. Activation of Nrf2

0 Days

by retinoids: An assembly of an adaptive cell defense

28 Days

mechanism at the emergence of oxidative cytotoxicity. 2019. 3. Sorg, O., Kuenzli, S., Kaya, G. and Saurat, J. Proposed

24 hours, while RNA was purified from

Fading wrinkles naturally

mechanisms of action for retinoid derivatives in the treatment

the cells and submitted for microarray

The ingredient’s efficacy in improving the

of skin aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 4(4): 237-

analysis. A downregulation of 85 percent

appearance of wrinkles was assessed

was observed for the expression of the

on 21 women, who applied a cream with

MMP1 gene and 69 percent for the

two percent Stevisse advanced botanical

MMP3 gene. Both these genes are mainly

ingredient on half of their face and a

responsible for collagen degradation.

placebo cream on the other half, twice

PTGS2 gene expression, also known as COX-

a day.

2 and responsible for skin inflammation,

After 28 days of treatment, wrinkle

experienced a decrease of 65 percent.

area and length were measured using

The decrease of the genes involved in the

244, 2005. 4. Ahmed, S., Luo, L., Namani, A., Wang, X. and Tang, X. Nrf2 signaling pathway: Pivotal roles in inflammation. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Molecular Basis of Disease. 1863(2): 585-597, 2017. 5. Brennan, M., Matos, M., Richter, K., Li, B. and Scannevin, R. The NRF2 transcriptional target, OSGIN1, contributes to monomethyl fumarate-mediated cytoprotection in human astrocytes. Scientific Reports. 7(1), 2017.

photographs of the crow’s feet area.

breakdown of extracellular matrix proteins

The results showed a 16.5 percent

(ECM) in the skin and in skin inflammatory

decrease in the area and 17.0 percent

pathways suggest a lower degradation of

in the length parameters of crow's feet

essential ECM proteins for younger looking

wrinkles after 28 days. Digital photographs

skin, while reducing skin inflammation.

also helped demonstrate the ability of the

Lipotec Active Ingredients – www.lipotec.com/en Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

Smoothing the natural passing of time

Organic stevia leaf-based extract with a retinoid-like mechanism that minimizes the appearance of wrinkles for a younger-looking skin.

Sin título-1 1

16/09/2019 12:34:16

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

SKIN & FACE CARE

An influential woman among us Chempure’s executive sales manager, Bianca Cahill, was recently named SADC South Country Winner for the Chemical, Pharmaceutical and Petrochemical Industry in CEO Global’s Most Influential Women in Business and Government Awards.

he awards programme honours

sector and hope to use this network of

excellence in the private and public

influence to further empower women in

recognition programmes dispel the notion

According to Wepener, CEO Global’s

sectors throughout Africa. It covers

our industry. The calibre of female talent

that innovative and progressive leadership

23 economic sectors and has for

in the scientific field is phenomenal and I

talent are scarce in Africa.

the past 19 years independently recognised

endeavour to generate a platform for the

leading women who are at the pinnacle of

recognition they deserve in contributing to

stories at the core of each winner’s

their industries.

this industry.’

professional and personal life story. I am

The ceremony took place during

Annelize Wepener, chief executive of

‘There are tremendously inspirational

really very privileged to interact with these

Women’s month, at The Hilton, Sandton

CEO Global, adds: ‘Nominees undergo a

individuals. They deserve the admiration

on 23 August 2019.

rigorous multitiered judging process. The

and respect they are afforded, particularly

highest possible standard is maintained

Lifetime Achievers who have often been

Cahill comments: ‘I am honoured to receive this industry

throughout the judging. Those

nomination for the chemical

DID YOU KNOW?

individuals whom have been

absolute pioneers in their field,’ she comments.

recognised as winners have

Chempure’s team applies its extensive technical expertise to help customers successfully transform ingredients into a final formulation.

truly excelled.’

Much needed recognition CEO Global continues to recognise

Innovation is alive in Africa The SADC South leg of the

the important role women play in the development of society. Since the company was founded in 2000, it

recognition programme is the first

has promoted initiatives to recognise

part, which takes place in eight regions

women. These have evolved into the

across the African continent. In each of

Most Influential Women in Business and

these regions, country and regional winners

Government programme, which is now

are identified.

known as the pre-eminent recognition

The regional winners automatically qualify for the

platform for women. This 12 month programme is designed

Continental Awards ceremony

to uplift and recognise women across

to be held in Johannesburg on

the African Continent, providing a

30 November 2019, where the

platform they can use to celebrate their

continent’s leading individuals

achievements, while paying tribute to the

from each of the 23 economic

women who positively influence change

sectors will be selected from the

on the continent. •

regional winners. Bianca Cahill at the awards ceremony

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

Chempure – www.chempure.co.za

Re-balance the microbiota Ecodermine™ Prebiotic complex dedicated to the skin wellness ess & harmony Hairspa™ Microbiota balance for a healthy scalp Kombuchka PH™ Skin glow enhancer inspired from a probioticc drink

Immediate effect

Long-lasting effect

Before

Kombuchka PH™ is obtained from KOMBUCHA, a tea fermented by a symbiosis of a yeast and a bacterium, that has been consumed for thousands of years. New tests with Ecodermine™/Hairspa™: these selective and adaptative prebiotics regulate the commensal and pathogenic population of skin microbiota.

T2.5h

D10

EUROPE - Sederma SAS Tel +33 1 34 84 10 10 email sederma@sederma.fr www.sederma.com Sederma GmbH Tel +49 21 57 817318 email sederma@sederma.de www.sederma.com NORTH AMERICA - Sederma Inc. Tel +1 732 692 1652 email sederma-usa@croda.com www.sederma.com ASIA PACIFIC email pc-asia@croda.com www.sederma.com

Smart Science to Improve LivesTM

These naturally derived active ingredients promote a holistic beauty synonymous with harmony, health and well-being.

*Samples will be sent at Sederma’s discretion

Multi-area approach: dry area (arms, legs, face), moist area (intimate area) and oily area (scalp).

After applying E/H 2 %

SKIN & FACE CARE

Bix’Activ – tested

and effective on oily African skin While 35 percent of people worldwide struggle with oily skin, topical solutions available on the market are often unsuitable for African skin types. In a remarkable development for the African skin care industry, BASF has tested its extract, Bix’Activ on dark skin tones.

frican skin tends to produce more sebum, has a different composition of sebum and skin lipids, and shininess can

be more pronounced. This is why personal care products need to be customised to its unique requirements. A clinical study done in Mauritius has confirmed BASF’s Bix’Activ is especially effective on oily African skin. An overproduction of sebum and resulting shininess are a common concern when it comes to African skin. In 2018, an in vivo study was done on an Asian population where Bix’Activ was shown to decrease sebaceous gland activity, pore

93 percent perceived their skin to be less oily, while 90 percent felt their skin looked healthier

size and skin imperfection.

Images showing the effect of Bix’Activ on skin shininess in three female African volunteers. Before treatment (D0) and after 28 days of product application (D28)

consumption of alcohol, a diet rich in dairy

Strong regional approach

study has also confirmed the efficacy of

products and sugar. Bix’Activ is an extract

Developing customised personal care

Bix’Activ on the unique characteristics of

of Bixa Orellana seeds. It addresses the

products for African skin types is part of

African skin. The study showed a decrease

dermatological roots of oily skin conditions

BASF’s overall strategy to develop consumer

in sebum excretion to the skin surface by

by restricting the overproduction of lipids in

oriented solutions for the sub-Saharan

44 percent and an 11 percent reduction

sebaceous glands.

African beauty market.

A new placebo controlled clinical

in shininess compared to the first day

Sapphirah Phala, BASF South Africa’s

‘With the support of the recently opened

of the study (D0). In a self-assessment,

account manager for personal care,

personal care application technology

a significant majority of the volunteers

comments: ‘As we continue with our drive

laboratory in Lagos, Nigeria, BASF will

reported an improvement in their skin’s

to create and deliver Afrocentric beauty

develop more customer solutions for

appearance. For instance, 93 percent

solutions, studies like these are important

skin and hair care applications, through

perceived their skin to be less oily, while

in showcasing product performances to

innovative products and concepts to

90 percent felt their skin looked healthier.

which our local customers can relate. This

address the specific needs of the sub-

product and particular study attend to

Saharan Africa consumer, including South

Bixa Orellana seed extract

one of the common concerns of the Ethnic

Africa,’ Phala concludes. •

Oily skin is due to hyperactive glands that

consumer – oil and shine.’

produce excess sebum. Its causes are

The active ingredient conforms to the

varied and range from hormonal changes

Cosmos standard for natural and organic

to environmental factors, such as weather

cosmetics and is suitable for use in Natrue

or air pollution and lifestyle, including the

certified formulations.

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

BASF – www.carecreations.basf.com Botanichem www.botanichem.co.za

For Anna, Naomi, and Carl, living in the city and being connected to nature are not mutually exclusive. They live and love a green life.

Their stories. Your products. Our commitment. Life-loving consumers want to trust in a bright and life-friendly future. To satisfy these inner needs we are deeply committed to achieving greater sustainability. BASFâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Care Creationsâ&#x201E;˘ will support your sustainability strategy with ingredients that are ecologically sourced, conserve resources or help avoid negative environmental or social impact. Promise. Every story matters. carecreations.basf.com/sustainability

SKIN & FACE CARE

Detox and purify skin with clay and charcoal Thanks to their range of benefits and ease of use, clay and charcoal have become popular in skin care formulations. Several brands now include these natural ingredients in their products.

acial masks have experienced

bentonite clay attract and draw out

attention of skin care formulators. In

significant growth in popularity with

toxins to the skin’s surface. It also contains

Japan, South Korea, China and Taiwan,

a recent report indicating the value

magnesium, silicate, copper, iron, and

people have used charcoal for centuries

of the global facial mask market was

potassium to boost skin health.

because of its ability to absorb minerals,

approximately USD32.76 billion in 2018.1 The market is expected to generate around USD50.91 billion by 2025. According to the report, increasing pollution and long working hours have amplified the adoption of skin care products, particularly facial masks where there is a preference for natural and organic offerings. This trend is evident in the number of masks formulated with clay and

People have used charcoal for centuries because of its ability to absorb minerals, toxins, impurities

toxins, impurities and other harmful substances, leaving skin stronger and healthier. It helps keep pores clear, exfoliates dead skin cells and stimulates cell growth leaving the skin supple and smooth. GfN & Selco produces charcoal powder from Moso bamboo timber, which is harvested at five

SoftClays

years of age and

Buntech, represented in South Africa by

charred inside an

Bentonite clay

Chemgrit Cosmetics, supplies a range

oven at temperatures

Essentially volcanic ash, bentonite clay

of SoftClays for use in skin, personal and

of over 1 000°C. It is

contains montmorillonite, which gives it a

hair care applications.

then crushed, ground,

charcoal ingredients.

flaky texture when exposed to air or water.

SoftClay Green Powder aids oil

sieved and sterilised to

Its unique properties make bentonite clay

absorption, restores balance, simulates

obtain Bamboo charcoal powder. This

incredibly useful in skin care products. It

cell regeneration and has a mattifying

ingredient is 100 percent natural, Ecocert

also carries a negative charge, attracting

effect. SoftClay Pink Powder supports

and Cosmos approved, and irradiation-,

substances with a positive charge, such as

claims associated with lightening, skin

allergen- and GMO-free. •

toxins, bacteria and fungi.

elasticity, radiance and balance, and it

‘Skin is exposed to harmful pollution and

reduces irritation. SoftClay White Powder

free radicals on a daily basis,’ explains Darryl

performs as a deep cleanser, purifying

Mostert of Chemgrit Cosmetics. ‘These

and refining the skin. SoftClay Brown

accumulate on the skin causing break-outs and premature

1. www.zionmarketresearch.com/report/facial-mask-market

Powder mattifies the skin and offers light exfoliation and moisturisation benefits.

ageing, affecting skin’s appearance and general

Bamboo charcoal powder

health.’ The negatively

Charcoal, known for its absorption

charged ions in

REFERENCES:

properties, has also attracted the

Buntech - www.buntech.com Chemgrit Cosmetics www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za GfN & Selco www.gfn-selco.de/en

Chemgrit Cosmetics realise that people are the key to our success, our customers, suppliers and personnel are our future. We believe in operating our business with integrity, efﬁciency and service excellence. CHEMGRIT COSMETICS (PTY) LTD 7 HAROLD FLIGHT ROAD, JET PARK, BOKSBURG, 1459. 011 397 4455 / 082 853 7589

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

SKIN & FACE CARE

Ashland launches CB2-skin and Rosaliss The company's latest skin care biofunctionals help modern brands create purposeful formulations with proven benefits. These active ingredients, available locally from Millchem, celebrate consumers’ needs for products that enhance their unique features.

CB2-skin is perfect for use in ‘better for me’ beauty products based on beauty rituals osaliss biofunctional is a 100

The unique composition of the extract,

receptor 2 (CB2) activator. It also offers skin calming and soothing benefits and promotes graceful ageing. Efficacy tests on CB2-skin show the active ingredient: • boosts skin barrier homeostasis

percent nature derived extract

rich in plant small RNA and rose-protecting

• improves skin barrier recovery after stress

from the Rosa centifolia flower,

tannins, helps skin increase its self-repair

• enhances the self-regeneration of

grown in Provence, France. It offers

potential and preserves the microbiome to

skin collagen

provide a visibly healthy complexion.

• limits UV damage.

form of a novel natural and environmentally

Comfort and calm stressed skin

beauty products based on beauty rituals to

conscious extract.

CB2-skin biofunctional, a patented

help disconnect from life’s daily stresses. It’s

alternative to Cannabidiol (CBD), is made

also ideal for beauty products for sensitive

patented Plant Small RNA technology for

from premium patchouli sourced from

skin and helps provide increased skin

extractions from fresh petals. According

fully integrated and sustainable farms in

comfort and reduce irritation and itchiness. •

to the company, it is the only technology

Colombia. CB2-skin is an alternative to

to capture the specific functionality

controversial cannabis derivatives.

outstanding efficacy to help repair skin and brings a new dimension to innovation in the

Rosaliss uses Ashland’s proprietary and

of the rose’s metabolism to resist environmental changes.

CB2-skin is perfect for use in ‘better for me’

It has superior benefits to hemp oil in modulating the skin’s cannabinoid

Ashland – www.ashland.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za

IT’S ONLY NATURAL RosalissTM is a 100% natural extract of Rosa centifolia flower from Provence with outstanding efficacy to help the skin achieve a flawless repair and get closer to perfection. cb2-skinTM biofunctional, with patchouli extract, this original and innovative approach to the CBD trend is the answer to calming and relaxing the skin. Email giulio@millchem.co.za for further information. JOHANNESBURG: +27 (0)11 974 2255 CAPE TOWN: +27 (0)21 557 6527/8 DURBAN: +27 (0)31 569 1486 / 1458 www.millchem.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

SKIN & FACE CARE

The quest for long term skin health The science of skin care continues to evolve with advances in ingredients and technologies. Abby Vorster looks at effective technologies for safer skin care products; moisturising and nourishing ingredients that calm and soothe sensitive skin; and consumer trends that have a profound impact on the skin and face care market. support their skin health from within rather than having a purely cosmetic perception of what beautiful skin means. The report states ‘much of this shift is being driven by the growing knowledge of consumers of what factors might result in damage to skin health, and the consequent motivation to use products that can prevent the damage from occurring in the first place’. Pollution – the environmental

esearch suggests beauty and skin care activities positively influence consumers’ emotional and physical wellbeing. The

positive internal experiences associated with beauty can result in decreased stress, as well as identifiable benefits to the body and brain. The emotional element linked to

Consumers are approaching the concept of beauty differently

aggressor with a silver lining for the skin care industry – has been shown to accelerate skin ageing and increase its sensitivity. Over exposure to pollution may also lead to discolouration, dryness, dullness and roughness of the skin. The anti-pollution category is one to watch, with new product launches spiking in 2019. South African skin care brand

protocol extends from before aesthetic

Theravine has launched a range of pollution

sensitive or problematic skin also presents

treatments to post-treatment and skin

protection solutions. Its Daily Defence

an opportunity for brand owners and

maintenance. This topical skin care system

Finishing Mist claims to offer an ‘any time

manufacturers to develop products that

aids the medical practitioner to score and

protective shield against visible and invisible

improve consumers’ mental state.

subsequently treat the skin according to

pollution’. The product is said to have a

visual indicators and genetic markers. The

natural antibacterial effect and is

consumer health analyst at Euromonitor

Delta skin care range was developed as

packed with some of the best pollution

International, ‘skin care brands have

a collaborative project between plastic

fighting ingredients.

always used claims of efficacy, but as

surgeons, aesthetic practitioners, chemists,

health and wellness megatrends exert a

geneticists and biomedical engineers.

Complex to manage ageing skin

greater influence on consumers, globally

Medical practitioners use the patented

Oat Cosmetics, represented

there has been a shift to beauty focused

Delta diagnosis code during consultation

locally by Cosmetic

skin care brands adopting a more

to characterise the skin’s visible conditions

Ingredients,

medicinal positioning’.

and, in combination with the results of a

launched a unique

DNA skin test, recommend a treatment

and powerful

in skin care products over recent years,

intervention and home care routine, unique

natural oat active

highlighting a shift in the market from

to the consumer’s skin concerns.

– AvenaPLex at in-

According to Keena Roberts, senior

The emphasis on health has developed

products traditionally viewed as solely

cosmetics Global

cosmetic to products designed to

Anti-pollution explosion

support the long-term health of the skin.

Although beauty is still a key motivator in

An example is the Delta, a medical skin

consumers’ choice when purchasing a skin

(Avena sativa (Oat)

care brand by optiphi. Launched in 2018,

care product, consumers are approaching

Kernel Extract) is a complex

to meet the demand for personalised

the concept of beauty differently. In a report

of skin identical lipids (including

treatments for facial and body aesthetic

produced by Euromonitor International for

ceramides, phosphatidylcholine and

concerns, this medical skincare system

in-cosmetics Global, entitled Skin Health: The

phosphatidylethanolamine), which

is redefining how practitioners diagnose

Evolving Landscape of Dermo-cosmetics,

deliver short- and long-term protection

and treat the skin. The revolutionary Delta

findings show consumers are looking to

on aged skin.

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

in Paris. AvenaPLex

SKIN & FACE CARE Thanks to its unique composition, AvenaPLex assists in the rapid absorption of skin beneficial molecules, supplements skin lipids, aids the strengthening of the dermis and helps prevent the loss of skin elasticity and firmness. Positioned for use on aged skin, significant testing has shown the complex: • increases skin essential ceramide levels • replenishes skin lipids lost through ageing

NATURAL BEAUTY: WE MAKE IT SCIENCE

• significantly increases the performance of key gene markers, including the up-regulation of f Hyaluron Synthase 3 • rapidly repairs the skin lipid barrier, reducing TEWL. A 100 percent natural, anhydrous active ingredient, Ecocert approved in accordance with the Cosmos standard, AvenaPLex is the culmination of four years’ work of the Oat Cosmetics’ R&D team. This powerful oat active is proven to repair, renew and protect the skin’s lipid barrier, helping to prevent and manage the signs of skin ageing.

Responsible beauty While emotional beauty is a growing trend, responsible beauty is just as important to consumers. BASF’s Rambutan Programme, a socially and environmentally responsible supply chain for the sustainable production of bio-actives, sees the multinational ingredient manufacturer working in close cooperation with partners in Vietnam. The programme was established in 2015 and involves a network of Vietnamese farmers and a dedicated Rambutan

Mild Anionic Surfactants

team. The team maintains

Amisoft® and Amilite®, formulated from Glutamic Acid, Glycine and Alanine. They impart a smooth & rich foaming to your formulations, without irritation or even a trace of toxicity.

the organically certified rambutan gardens, harvests fruit and prepares all raw materials for the extraction

Humectants

of the bioactive ingredients.

Ajidew® and Prodew® are all delicately balanced amino acid based moisturizers that are naturally refilling the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor.

The programme has a positive impact on Vietnamese rural society

Rambutan fruit

by upcycling different parts of the rambutan tree (Nephelium lappaceum), other than the fruit, and offering an income above the average wage, ensuring gender

Eldew® is an emollient that adds an elegant sophisticated feel to everything from lipstick and eye make-up to creams, lotions and powders.

equality, guaranteeing safer working conditions and providing health insurance. An interdisciplinary innovation platform at BASF focuses

Functional Powder

exclusively on the extraction of valuable substances from plant material. BASF has found a way to extract the powers of the peel, leaves and seeds of the tree for cosmetics products, making sure no part goes to waste. Nephydrat is an extract from the spiny fruit peel. It reinforces the skin’s capacity for water retention and helps to hydrate skin – a noticeable effect proven in tests with volunteers. The extract fuels keratinocytes with energy and increases phospholipids and long chain ceramide synthesis for an optimal skin barrier function.

Emolients

Amihope® LL is a multi-functional powder created from L-Lysine and Lauric Acid. Integrated into powders, creams or lotions, Amihope® LL yields silky richness and a luxurious feel.

Oil Gelling Agents EB-21 & GP-1, allowing you to obtain clear sticks as well as o/w emulsions with a surprizing, delicate texture.

Nephydrat provides measurable and perceivable benefits of increased skin hydration and a uniform, fresh complexion. The leaf extract, Nephoria helps mature skin to rejuvenate through biological pathways similarly to those of retinol. Through its action on several major biological targets involved in collagen synthesis and elastic fibre network, it stimulates the formation of collagen and elastin fibres in vitro. In in vivo testing, Nephoria was

Represented in South Africa by Maccallum Pty Ltd T : +27 11 234 8470 | E : rdt@maccallum.co.za

shown to increase skin elasticity and reduce wrinkles.

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

AJINOMOTO COMMERCIAL SOUTH AFRICA_88.5x262mm.indd 1

18/07/2019 15:55

SKIN & FACE CARE

Nephydrat and Nephoria active

DID YOU KNOW?

fruit. Pumpkins

ingredients are marketed by BASF Care

are hearty and

Creations and available in South Africa

resilient throughout

from Botanichem.

their lifespan, then seemingly overnight

Skin care resurged globally in 2017 with six percent growth, to By fermenting the account for 27 percent of beauty and personal care in value terms. flesh with Lactobacillus The market is forecast to deliver 30 lactis, it’s possible to percent of the industry’s absolute breakdown many of the value growth from 2017 to 2022. Source: Euromonitor complex bio-molecules International

A natural choice for exfoliation

begin to soften and

Skin care brands have always used claims

collapse. This is attributed

of efficacy, but recent trends in cosmetics

to proteolytic enzymes – these

have led more technically minded

potent natural molecules have

phytochemicals. Within the cosmetics

consumers away from products not backed

several industrial uses. Yet preliminary tests

industry, pumpkin extracts have been

by reputable science. This, along with the

in cosmetics showed too much irritation for

employed as a natural choice for premier

advent of alpha hydroxy acids in cosmetics

them to be useful. But Active Concepts

exfoliation. Including ACB Modified

has led to a flood of products on the market

has made these incredible molecules

Pumpkin Enzyme PF in formulations is sure

delivering perceivable consumer benefits.

viable, with all their benefits and none of

to be both simple and beneficial for its

With the market becoming saturated,

the irritation.

exfoliating and moisturising properties.

found naturally in the plant.

This leads to the successful isolation of a variety of beneficial

it’s become exceedingly

ACB Modified Pumpkin Enzyme PF

Essential Specialised Products (ESP) is the

difficult for brand owners to

is sourced in the most sustainable

local agent for Active Concepts. •

differentiate their products.

manner possible, as the flesh of

With the increased need

the pumpkin is almost wholly

for a point of difference,

considered a by-product of

Active Concepts has turned

pumpkin seed harvesting. This

its attention to develop ingredients with proteolytic enzymes. The idea to create ACB

flesh, which would otherwise be considered waste, is kept, concentrated and fermented to increase

Modified Pumpkin Enzyme PF blossomed

the bioactivity and availability of its

from the very decomposition of the pumpkin

individual components.

Active Concepts – www.activeconceptsllc.com BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za Essential Specialised Products – www.esp-sa.co.za

CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS

MATTE & SHINE

If the runways of the leading fashion designers are anything to go by, the trends in make-up and styling are dominated by two looks: matte and shine. The fresh, young shine look is achieved with a radiant make-up complemented by healthy glossy hair. The “undone” appearance of matte, on the other hand, is created by nude-make-up and faded gloss in beach waves. Whether for hair care, skin care or makeup – achieve the perfect matte or shine look with BELSIL ® silicones and HDK ® silicas from WACKER. www.wacker.com/personalcare

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

Your official distributor in South Africa

SKIN & FACE CARE

Detox and oxygenate tired skin According to Codif, it has introduced a first in the cosmetics industry by developing a method of reading cell senescence. This makes it possible to define a mitophagy performance index and independently evaluate autophagy and mitophagy in skin care R&D.

he vitality, functioning and

susceptibility of the skin to fatigue as

24 hours and, after 28 days, it improves

ageing of cells depends on

well as signs of fatigue.

luminosity of skin tone, reduces skin’s

mitochondrial homoeostasis. Every day, this homoeostasis

is threatened. Respiration produces toxic free radicals, which damage the component parts of the mitochondria. This generates waste that builds up and interferes with the functioning of

Detoxondria from Codif detoxifies, oxygenises, and revitalises tired skin

susceptibility to fatigue and lessens signs of fatigue. Detoxondria is water soluble and should be used at 0.75 percent in a formulation. Suitable applications include a revitalising booster serum, formulated with Codif’s Early Boost; a

the mitochondria, endangering the life

Proven effective

general anti-ageing cream formulated

of the cell itself.

To determine the in vivo efficacy of

with Codif’s Phycojuvenine; or a skin

Detoxondria, the active ingredient

detoxification treatment with with

oxygenises, and revitalises tired skin

was tested on two groups of 20 and 30

Codif’s Actiporine 8G.

for a more homogenous and luminous

volunteers, whose ages ranged from

complexion. It enhances cellular

50 to 65 years. Test protocol saw the

available in South Africa from Vantage

detoxification capabilities by recycling

volunteers apply on the entire face two

Specialty Chemicals. •

metabolic waste.

applications of 0.75 percent Detoxondria

Detoxondria from Codif detoxifies,

This mode of action improves tissue oxygenation and luminosity of the skin. Detoxondria also reduces the

in a formulation, or a placebo, for 28 days. The results showed Detoxondria increases oxygenation of the skin after

Codif’s active ingredients are

Vantage Specialty Chemicals – kim@lipo.co.za

Glycation Inhibition and Reduced Intercellular ROS. Ideal for Skin Care, Hair Care and Colour Cosmetics.

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

LABELLING

Co-lab tackles ink and adhesive migration Lintec Europe has partnered with Screen Europe to address one of the most pressing issues in the pharmaceutical packaging industry: ink and adhesive migration. Lintec showcased its ultra-low migration labelstock at Labelexpo Europe, from 24 to 27 September.

creen is a leading manufacturer

blow-fill-seal fluid containers, vials and

of digital high speed inkjet

ampules, Lintec’s labelstock reduces

printers and label and

the risk of product contamination

packaging solutions. Lintec’s

significantly thanks to the inclusion of an

ultra-low migration labelstock is

ultra-low migration adhesive.

by the Screen Truepress Jet L350UV+LM label press. ‘Safety issues over the migration of ink and adhesive components throughout the pharma supply chain are a cause for concern for brand owners and manufacturers,’

DID YOU KNOW?

Custom developed Lintec’s ultra-low migration labelstock is ideal for use

In 1999, the US FDA released with Screen’s Truepress Jet Guidance for Industry: L350UV+LM label press. Container Closure Systems for Developed specifically Packaging Human Drugs and for pharma and food Biologics, detailing guidelines packaging applications, for pharma manufacturers on the label migration the Truepress Jet in plastic packaging. L350UV+LM uses Screen’s

explains Soichiro Fujinaga, technical manager at Lintec Europe. ‘For this reason, label and packaging suppliers are faced with heightened demands to deliver solutions

proprietary low migration inks, which comply with the strict safety standards of pharma and food packaging. The system features an innovative

that ensure pharma products are

nitrogen purge mechanism that reduces

protected from contamination.’

the density of oxygen to an absolute

As a countermeasure to this issue,

minimum to accelerate the curing

Lintec has designed an ultra-low

process while drastically reducing the risk

migration labelstock that provides

of ink migration.

improved safety for labels on plasticmoulded pharma packaging.

Independently tested

Developed primarily for use on aseptic

A series of independent migration tests were run by a third party to assess the performance of the labelstock. A

1: Lintec’s labelstock significantly reduces the risk of product contamination thanks to the inclusion of an ultra-low migration adhesive 2: The ultra-low migration labelstock is ideal for use with Screen’s Truepress Jet L350UV+LM label press

• migration of adhesive components to the contained liquid is extremely minimal • improved safety for labelling of plastic moulded

designed to be compatible with the low migration inks used

KEY FEATURES AND APPLICATIONS:

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

pharma packaging • the films are US FDA compliant • suitable for labelling aseptic pharmaceutical liquids. solution consisting of 50 percent ethanol or three percent acetic acid was applied to the adhesive side of the material and the labelstock placed in a 60°C environment for a period of 10 days. The final test results revealed that, when Lintec’s ultra-low migration labelstock is combined with the Screen Truepress Jet L350UV+ LM low migration ink, the overall migration limit (OML) is 0.6mg per 100cm2. ‘This is an outstanding result, considering the current EU regulation allowance for OML is 10mg per 100cm2 maximum,’ comments Soichiro. ‘In the highly regulated pharma industry, label and packaging manufacturers have a responsibility to ensure their products comply with legislation and industry guidelines. By tackling ink migration jointly with Screen, Lintec is showing its commitment to corporate responsibility and to delivering a product that provides brand owners and end users the reassurance they need.’ •

Lintec Europe – www.lintec-europe.com Screen Europe – www.screeneurope.com

QUALITY ASSURANCE

Ensure minimum risk with safe pressure measurements Process safety is paramount in the pharma and biotech industries. Diaphragm pressure gauges represent a good solution for pressure monitoring, especially with smaller processing units and mobile containers. With their dry measuring cell and robust design, they help prevent costly damage. By Silvia Weber, Wika product manager

1 3

ctive ingredients are the

outcome of a long sequence of process steps, accompanying analyses and transfers from

one phase to the next. Compliance with high safety requirements is mandatory in each of these phases. If a failure occurs, the cost is more severe the later it happens in the production process. Pressure gauges in hygienic design with a flush diaphragm element are increasingly used to enable durable, reliable pressure measurements at critical points in the process. These include monitoring pressure during production, leak tightness of mobile containers, pressure monitoring during cleaning and sterilisation, or for pressure testing a sterile container for tightness prior to use. The dry measuring cell and ultra-robust design are two key arguments for this instrument type.

Ideal for sensitive processes

The measuring principle of a diaphragm pressure gauge eliminates the risk of contamination

On pressurisation, the deflection of the diaphragm element, which is proportional to the incident pressure, is transmitted to the movement via a link. Depending on the measuring range, the diaphragm element can be anything

effects or incorrect handling. A damaged

between twice and five times as thick as the

diaphragm can easily rupture, resulting

diaphragm of a typical diaphragm seal. It

Pressure gauges based on diaphragm seal

in a leakage of transmission fluid. Product

is resistant to negative effects, be they due

technology are still very common today

contamination, batch loss and machine

to the process itself or to rough handling.

for mechanical pressure measurements in

downtime will result if a ruptured membrane

In addition to its ultra-robust design, the

sensitive processes. The diaphragm of the

is detected too late.

high overpressure safety of the diaphragm

diaphragm seal absorbs the pressure and

The measuring principle of a diaphragm

pressure gauge – up to five times the

transmits it hydraulically to the measuring

pressure gauge eliminates the risk of this

nominal pressure – reduces the risk of

instrument.

kind of contamination, because pressure

damage to the pressure element, in the

transmission is purely mechanical without

event of unexpected water hammer.

The diaphragm has a limited thickness owing to the measuring accuracy. It’s highly

any fluid – hence the reference of a ‘dry’

This adds up to a significantly longer

sensitive and prone to damage in the case

measuring cell. Its elastic pressure element

service life for the measuring instrument

of overpressure in the process, mechanical

– the diaphragm element – is flush welded.

and improved plant availability.

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

QUALITY ASSURANCE Space-saving design Owing to their compact and lightweight design, PG43SA pressure gauges are ideal wherever installation space is restricted, for example in fermenters, bioreactors or mobile containers. With its comprehensive safety features, the PG43SA-D is tailor made for pressure monitoring while transporting high quality substances, either within a plant or when cryotanks have to be moved from one site to another. Like all pressure gauges, this instrument offers an added benefit for mobile applications – since it doesn’t require external power,

it indicates the pressure reliably at

1: An example of a diaphragm pressure gauge in a sensitive production environment 2: Measuring principle of a mechanical diaphragm pressure gauge 3: Pressure gauge with a flush diaphragm element mounted onto a mobile sterilecontainer 4: The PG43SA family from Wika

all times. For automated processes, where electronic pressure measuring instruments are the only option, Wika can provide continuous diaphragm

Hygienically designed pressure gauges

highest levels of safety are stipulated, for

The new PG43SA product family was

of active pharmaceutical ingredients

increasingly important role in the pharma

developed by Wika for applications in

(APIs). In spite of their robust design, even

industry. Manufacturers tend to produce

the pharma and biotech industries. The

premium quality diaphragm elements are

these medicines in small batches, so the

pressure gauges have a measuring

liable to be compromised when loaded

containers used to transport the goods

range of up to 16 bar and meet the

over long periods.

from one manufacturing step to another,

strict requirements for hygienic design,

instance in the production and transport

The PG43SA-D is the only measuring

monitoring for diaphragm seal systems. Personalised medicine is playing an

or to carry the end product, are similarly

as confirmed by their 3A and EHEDG

instrument of its kind to ship with

smaller in size. Despite the reduced

certifications. They are suitable for CIP, SIP

integrated diaphragm element

surface area, the same measuring

and wash-down areas, enabling quick

monitoring, with a red and white indicator

instrument that’s used on a larger

and easy cleaning.

on the dial. Thanks to this patented

container has to be accommodated on

solution, the pressure element can be

a smaller one. For this reason, instrument

autoclaved. This means the pressure

monitored continuously. At any time,

manufacturers are eager to develop

gauges can be sterilised together with

users can see at a glance whether

space-saving alternatives. A good

the container under saturated steam

the diaphragm element is still intact

example is Wika’s patented PG43SA-C

conditions at temperatures up to +134°C,

without having to wait until operation is

– a hygienically designed diaphragm

without being dismounted. There is no

interrupted for maintenance.

pressure gauge – with the process

The entire product family can be

need for any time-consuming conversion

In the version with this monitoring

of the containers before they are put into

function, the space behind the

the autoclave.

diaphragm element is evacuated. If

connection integrated in the rear of the case. When it comes to mechanical pressure

pressure enters the device because the

measurements in pharma processes, or

this series. It has a large display (NG100)

diaphragm element is damaged, the

other similarly sensitive ones, diaphragm

to ensure the measured value can still be

indicator changes to red. Even if the

pressure gauges should normally be

read correctly even if the container has

diaphragm element ruptures, the risk

first choice. With their dry measuring

high walls. A radial connection is provided

of contamination is minimal. A second

cell principle, robust design and high

for mounting in horizontal piping.

barrier inside the instrument ensures

overpressure safety, they reduce the risk

the environment remains hermetically

of contamination to a minimum and

an ATEX approved version for use in

separated from the process. No particles

improve plant availability.

hazardous areas. The PG43SA-D type,

can infiltrate the process, and, in the

featuring integrated diaphragm element

opposite direction, no active substances

integrated diaphragm element

monitoring, is based on the standard

can get into the environment.

monitoring meet the strict safety

The PG43SA-S is the standard model in

The instrument can be supplied in

pressure gauge. The compact PG43SA-C,

To guarantee the highest possible

Diaphragm pressure gauges with

requirements that apply when

which has a process connection on the

level of safety, the space behind the

transporting high quality products in

rear of the case, rounds off the series.

diaphragm element can be sterilised

mobile containers. •

with dry heat beforehand, in accordance

Eliminating contamination risks

with ISO 20857/2010. In the unlikely event

The PG43SA-D was designed by Wika for

of damage, product contamination –

particularly critical applications where the

leading to batch loss – is ruled out.

Wika Instruments – www.wika.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

QUALITY ASSURANCE

Tips to increase the quality of natural products

Natural medicinal products and their contents are constantly under consumer scrutiny. It’s critical for the manufacturer or formulator to produce a high quality, standardised product to satisfy the market needs. Analike Blom van Staden discusses various ways academic researchers and the industry can work together to benefit the supply chain and ensure quality finished products.

miscommunication seems to

While experiments are repeated in the

exist between scientists and

laboratory to determine reproducibility,

when research is conducted on

the industry, which creates

they are often only conducted on the

plants, including:

challenges when it comes to

original extract prepared from one plant

• samples should be collected during all

the quality control of natural products. Academic scientists primarily focus on

sample collected in the same season from the same plant. The influence

There are other aspects to note

four seasons • different locations should be used

investigating the bioactivity of medicinal

of season, geography, agriculture

for sample collection, which might

plants for their potential therapeutic

processing and the growth conditions

ultimately become suppliers of the plant

use in cosmetics, cosmeceuticals

of the plant are often overlooked; these

or pharmaceuticals. Yet proper

are critical when it comes to commercial

standardisation techniques and the

farming and extract manufacturing.

potential therapeutic applications

Various critical aspects need to

material to the industry • for the initial bioactivity screening, samples should be collected from different plant parts.

need to be considered throughout the

be incorporated into academic

These aspects will ensure the

investigation process.

research projects, focusing on

identification of the optimal season and

product development.

collection point on which more in-depth

The academic workflow includes

research can be based. This helps save

the drug discovery and development phase (pharmacodynamics), the

Plant material

time for the natural product industry and

safety assessment and potential

It is standard procedure at any research

results in better quality control and a

contraindications and drug interactions

institution to deposit a herbarium

standardised product.

(pharmacokinetics) as well as the clinical

specimen of the plant on which research

investigation. Although it appears the

will be conducted, documenting the

Choosing a solvent

invention is ready to be commercialised

person who collected the specimen,

Extracts are prepared in small amounts

or licensed out at this stage, a lot of

the date and time of collection and

within a laboratory, which can be

additional research is still required by the

the location, which can include GPS

problematic when it comes to scaling

industry before it can reach the market.

coordinates. Also useful to the industry,

up extract manufacturing to a

but not always recorded, is the size or age

commercial level. The toxicity of the

of the plant from which was collected.

solvents used for extraction is one aspect

This data is important as the active

not being considered.

compound(s), with the specific biological

ethyl acetate, acetone, hexane and

different stages of the plant’s growth.

primarily methanol – as methanol is quite

Another important aspect is the

It’s crucial that standardisation of a natural product is included at the early stages of product development

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

Scientists often use chloroform,

activity for the product or drug, differs in

versatile for the extraction of several

condition or health of the plant, as stress

phytochemicals. Yet there are strict

might have influenced its bioactivity, which

regulations around the quantity of solvents

will differ when compared to the bioactivity

that can be stored on site, which can

of a cultivated plant. The plant part, which

be problematic for large scale extract

is normally listed in scientific publications,

manufacturing for product manufacture.

should be specified, and further details

A better alternative is to use, from the

should be documented for industry, such

research phase, solvents preferred by the

as the age of the leaves – were they large

industry, such as ethylene glycol, propylene

hardened leaves, apical buds or newly

glycol – which improves the solubility of

formed leaves? If twigs were included,

natural ingredients – or glycerin, which

were they hardened or still new growth?

simultaneously acts as a humectant.

As a researcher, one might think this finding out whether a plant has potential,

Upscaling of extract preparation

but when it comes to product or drug

After plant material has been collected,

development, these are the small things

the standard procedure at research

that can greatly influence the quality

institutions is to air dry the plant material.

control of the product.

This is then ground, mixed with the desired

information doesn’t matter in relation to

QUALITY ASSURANCE Thin layer chromatography results of several plant extracts

ratio, resulting in the right bioactive

development of the plates, the bands and

concentration, when dried. This will

retention factors can be compared to a

enable the industry to prepare a

reference fingerprint. These techniques are

tincture for large scale production of

widely used in quality control laboratories.

the exact concentration required to exhibit the active bioactivity.

It’s crucial that standardisation of a natural product is included at the early stages of product development. The true

Identifying a biomarker

potential of medicinal plants is yet to be

Due to the variability of the

discovered and fully explored.

phytochemicals in plants, as well as

The future of natural products lies

the extracts prepared from them,

in the strong collaboration between

it’s crucial to identify and quantify a

academic researchers and industry.

biomarker or set of biomarkers. This

If proper product development and

Buyer’sguide can be done using gas chromatography-

commercialisation processes are

and finally dried under reduced vacuum

mass spectrometry analysis that quantifies

followed, the end product will comply

or freeze dried. Alternatively, fresh plant

the volatile compounds in the extract, or

with quality assurance regulations. •

material may be blended with the desired

high-performance liquid chromatography

solvent, filtered and dried as mentioned.

analysis, which quantifies the compounds

THE

solvent in the appropriate ratio, filtered

Most manufacturing facilities in South

soluble in different solvents. Preferably,

Africa do not have large scale drying

the biomarker(s) should be the active

facilities, and the cost associated with

compound(s) to standardise the activity

freeze drying or spray drying extracts

associated with the extract.

made with organic solvents can be

A simpler technique would be to obtain

hindering. A possible middle ground

chemical fingerprints using thin layer

between academic research and the

chromatography. This technique uses silica-

industry is for researchers to document the

based plates that separate the compounds

exact solvent to collected plant material

based on polarity. After the appropriate

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Analike Blom van Staden is a laboratory consultant assisting companies with laboratory construction, from the design, feasibility and ROI stages to lab management. Send an e-mail to analike@anoiksen. com, for more information.

2017/2018

THE

Buyer’sguide

2018/2019 2019/2020

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1

2018/05/07 3:09 PM

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

QUALITY ASSURANCE

Attention to detail in pharma maintenance Regulation is at the heart of the pharma industry and not exclusively associated with R&D. Managing contamination is a huge concern for pharma manufacturing facilities, where this is an intense onus on safety. Chris Johnson, MD of SMB Bearings, investigates why a stringent approach doesn’t always translate into plant maintenance.

lant maintenance is no easy feat,

For maintenance engineers, the sheer

the same loads as steel versions. This

particularly in complex facilities

plethora of equipment on the factory floor

raises the question – do CMMSs factor

like that of pharmaceutical

would require hours of training for them

in the properties of different bearing

production. Computerised

to completely understand each part,

materials when analysing and forecasting

component and instruction for maintaining

equipment health?

maintenance management systems (CCMS) are now being widely

the intricate details. In pharma

deployed to assist in the

manufacturing, this complexity is

Compliant lubrication

maintenance of these plants.

heightened by regulations, as well

This is another commonly overlooked

These systems can gather,

as the presence of corrosive and

area. When replacing small parts and

store and analyse condition

chemical ingredients.

components, maintenance engineers

monitoring data to help

Using the bearing example, it

must consider whether the part is

engineers intelligently devise a

would be easy for maintenance

paired with the correct oil or grease for

predictive maintenance plan.

engineers to replace the bearing

the application.

Here’s an example of how a

Chr is Joh nson

CCMS would work. Let’s say a

with a like-for-like version, rather than an exact copy. For

Bearings for pharma environments should be supplied with chemically

vibration analysis tool is being used to

example, a new stainless-steel bearing

resistant or food grade lubricants.

monitor the performance of a bearing on

of the same diameter would be installed,

Buying an off the shelf bearing does

an industrial mixer. Combining powder and

even though the original bearing was

not guarantee the correct lubricant has

granular materials, this machine is integral

made of ceramic. Because steel bearings

been used. In these instances, bearing

to the production of pharma products.

tend to be cheaper, they are more likely to

installation could risk contamination

be held in inventory. This scenario is entirely

of non-food safe grease — causing

analysis, the CCMS can intelligently

conceivable to get operations back up

much bigger problems than a broken-

predict when the bearing might fail by

and running as quickly as possible.

down mixer.

Taking data acquired during vibration

extrapolating the performance over

Bearings for pharma environments should be supplied with chemically resistant or food grade lubricants

several future batches of production. This

Steel versus ceramic bearings

intelligence can allow engineers to tackle

The material of the bearing doesn’t

the problem — in this case, a deteriorating

always dramatically impact its

bearing — and replace it before its failure

performance. However, in highly corrosive

causes unplanned downtime. Although it

environments, choosing the correct

sounds simple, there is still room for error.

material is incredibly important.

A complex situation

outstanding levels of corrosion resistance,

A common issue in manufacturing facilities

some steel varieties cannot withstand

Computerised software might

is a lack of adequate training for staff.

the aggressive environments that are

be beneficial for planning factory

While full ceramic bearings offer

commonplace in pharmaceutical

maintenance, but engineers cannot rely

manufacturing, including those that

on digital tools to effectively maintain

operate inside an industrial mixer.

complicated facilities. Pharma production

Where bearings are concerned,

certainly falls into the category of

there are other considerations

complicated manufacturing and while

such as hardness and speed

regulation in the industry is incredibly

requirements. Ceramic materials

rigorous, there is a need to ensure

tend to be up to 30 percent

component maintenance is too. •

harder than steel, which improves their durability. But the material is also much more brittle, so ceramic varieties cannot handle

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

SMB Bearings – www.smbbearings.com

QUALITY ASSURANCE

European Pharmacopoeia updates to address new challenges The newly released 10 th Edition of the European Pharmacopoeia, contains 2 420 monographs and 374 general texts, including general monographs and methods of analysis, as well as around 2 780 descriptions of reagents.

n total, 114 new monographs have

reflecting the latest scientific and

been introduced, compared to

technological advances, as well

Edition 9.0. Of these, 17 concern

as recent changes in regulatory

active substances of high medical

processes at European and

interest covering key therapeutic

international level.’

classes, such as anti-neoplastics, immunosuppressants, anti-arrhythmics,

Spectrophotometry

anti-thrombotics, antiretrovirals or

In the 10 th Edition of the European

analgesics. Seven monographs concern finished products containing chemically defined active substances. Altogether 683 revisions were made, taking into account the latest scientific and technical evolutions, legal and regulatory developments, the increasing demand for

This updated edition responds to the latest developments in the pharma industry and defines quality and safety standards for medicines

Pharmacopoeia, thoroughly revised

DID YOU KNOW?

general chapters include those on infrared absorption spectrophotometry

The European and ultraviolet and Pharmacopoeia is a single visible absorption reference work for the quality spectrophotometry. control of medicines. The official standards it contains The latter now covers provide a scientific basis UV-Vis detectors for for quality control during chromatographic systems the entire life cycle of a product. and process analytical

generic and biosimilar products, new risks in the public health domain

technology applications. Acceptance criteria for elemental

and the globalisation of trade and

impurity levels, as defined in the ICH

commerce.

Q3D guideline, are reflected in this new

Dr Susanne Keitel, director of the

edition. It also provides standardised

European Directorate for the Quality

approaches for correctly determining

of Medicines and Healthcare (EDQM),

elemental impurity levels. Further work

explains: ‘This updated edition

on elemental impurities include the

responds to the latest developments

revision of the general monographs

in the pharma industry and defines

on substances for pharmaceutical use

quality and safety standards for

and pharmaceutical preparations,

medicines on the basis of scientific

the general chapters on elemental

expertise. It includes a whole variety of

Impurities and their determination,

new substances and products, while

as well as numerous individual monographs.

Biological medicines In the field of biologicals, several new monographs address existing and innovative treatments, such as infliximab concentrated solution (2928), the revised general monograph on products of recombinant DNA technology and a new chapter on the quantification and characterisation of residual host cell DNA. All offer quality standards for a wide range of biological medicines while allowing for the necessary flexibility.

Animal testing The 3Rs concept – of replacement, reduction and refinement – which is aimed at protecting animals used for scientific purposes, is widely reflected in the 10th Edition. The test for abnormal toxicity was completely removed, and altogether, 49 individual monographs, 36 of which concern vaccines for human use, were revised. Another step is the new chapter on the substitution of in vivo methods by in vitro methods for the quality control of vaccines, which will ease the transition from in vivo to in vitro methods. In total, 59 monographs were revised in this context.

Subsequent updates The 10 th Edition of the European The 10 th Edition of the European Pharmacopoeia and the subsequent updates will be available in print and electronic formats

Pharmacopoeia will become effective on 1 January 2020 and will be updated with eight supplements (10.0 to 10.8) over the following three years. Functionalities of the electronic versions have been improved to better address users’ needs. These improvements allow for more effective user management, including re-allocation of access rights amongst user groups. Visit https://bit.ly/2lUTkYG for more information on the 10th Edition. •

P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

QUALITY ASSURANCE

Get back to basics amidst tech advances Practical management of quality system elements is the key to using ISO 9001 and applying quality management effectively. Advances in technology certainly assist in the maintenance of management systems and overall quality. By Andrea Mammes of Intertek Aston Manor

cada systems and PLCs control

Version controls were established, and

motors, relays and solenoids) were not

quality in mines and manufacturing

drawings were issued to specific work

formally recorded, and only anecdotal

plants. Email notifications prompt

stations. Design changes to drawings could

evidence of performance and reliability

personnel for responses to queries,

only be achieved after a formal process of

was available. This resulted in incorrect

complaints, nonconformities, inspections,

change management and approval by

decisions being made on supplier

escalations of queries and tasks etc.

specified personnel.

selection, as unreliable motors were

Communication is easy and less formal

sometimes sourced. These eventually

with Twitter, WhatsApp and Skype replacing

Corrective action system

proved problematic, including repairs

email and smses.

The implementation of a formal system to

being undertaken at client installations.

It is easy to get tantalised by technology.

record issues proved to be an eye-opener for

The implementation of documented

While it’s necessary to utilise technology for

management. Non-reporting of problems,

test protocols and performance tracking

efficiency, mistake-proofing and control,

complaints and issues assured an ongoing

of components testing provided realistic

it cannot replace the basic principles of

stream of complications, which costed

information about the performance of

quality management in any manufacturing

money and directly affected the company's

specific components and situations

environment from pharma and cosmetics

bottom line.

(e.g. reliability of motors in heat-stressed

to mining. One illustration comes from an established manufacturing company in Wynberg, Joburg, South Africa. The company designs, manufactures and installs turnstiles and booms for various industries. As the family owned business grew, controls became more difficult and systems were informal at best. In the

The implementation of a formal system to record issues proved to be an eye-opener for management

environments and the number of cycles of

The basic principles embodied in the

dramatically. This meant the current cost of

operation of relays before failure). Fully assembled products were tested in-house and records have been retained of pertinent information such as the number of cycles and operating temperatures (i.e. winter and summer performance). This has reduced incorrect procurement decisions

first year of operating a formal quality

‘improvement’ clauses of ISO 9001 were

poor quality is <R20 000, amounting to an

management system, the company

established. All problems were logged. Root

annual saving of over R120 000. Ongoing

reduced the cost of poor quality by 90

causes of each problem were assessed and

efforts will further reduce this. •

percent, a saving of over R145 000. How

identified, using established techniques,

could it achieve this, without implementing

such as 5-Why and Fishbone Analysis. These

anything else than a formal QMS? It applied

solved over 90 percent of the existing issues

the basic principles of quality.

in one year. The company’s corrective action system

Document control

now includes calculating the cost of every

Being a design and manufacturing

NC recorded (e.g. labour hours, materials

operation, technical manufacturing

used for repair and the replacement cost

drawings issued to the floor were

of components etc.). This enables the

previously issued without any form of

company to focus on addressing the issues

version control, or control over design

with the biggest cost implications (using

changes. This resulted in parts being

Pareto analysis). This system has matured

processed incorrectly, due to drawing

from a fire-fighting mechanism to one of

errors, or confusion over which version to

continual improvement.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Andrea Mammes is a lead auditor for business assurance at Intertek sub-Saharan Africa. She qualified in QMS ISO 9001 and has evolved into an ISO 22716 (GMP) auditor for cosmetics manufacturing. Send an email to info.africa@intertek.com for more information on the services offered by Intertek.

use. In many cases, the individually and separately manufactured parts could not be assembled correctly until further rework

Design controls and retention samples

could be done. This was addressed through

Trials conducted on components used

strict control over drawings.

in the turnstile manufacture (such as

| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

Intertek – www.intertek.com/contact/ema/ southafrica

AEROSOLS

Insight into trending markets and new movements The global aerosol market size was valued at USD 67.87 billion in 2018 and is estimated to witness a CAGR of 5.5 percent from 2019 to 2025. A report published in March by Grand View Research attributes this growth to the increasing consumption of personal care products such as deodorants, shaving creams, hair sprays and body sprays.

erosols are colloidal

In addition, introduction of the

systems of solid or liquid

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)

particles suspended in gas.

approved aerosol cleaning products

They find a broad range of

are anticipated to boost global

applications including personal care, household, automotive and industrial, food, paint and medical products. Increasing urbanisation coupled with

DID YOU KNOW?

Even ambitious sustainability goals can be achieved using aluminium packaging. As a ‘permanent’ material, aluminium can be recycled time and time again without any loss of quality in order to reproduce high quality products for a wide range of applications.

market growth. The development of eco-friendly

They also use 50 percent less propellant

packaging is expected to create new

and reduce the overall carbon footprint

opportunities for the global market in the

of the product.

rapid infrastructural developments in

forthcoming years. For instance, in 2013,

emerging economies of Asia Pacific

Unilever launched aerosol products

innovations in aerosol-based products

are expected to drive the demand

with eco-friendly packaging. These

for improving consumer convenience

for aerosol products in the household

containers were 50 percent smaller and

and environmental concerns have

products and paints categories.

longer lasting than traditional cans.

been witnessed.

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P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 |

AEROSOLS Table 1: Local filling statistics for home and personal care products for 2018

Growth of aerosols in the household products segment is attributed to an improvement in living standards and increased emphasis on hygiene These include the use of compressed gases as propellants as a replacement for hydrocarbons and the innovation of bi-compartmental technology, which separates the product from the propellant by introducing a plastic inner bag. Such steps are expected to propel the growth of the aerosol market even further.

Personal care standing strong

increases their longevity. This property

asthma, which is anticipated to further

The personal care segment held the

also propels their usage especially

propel the demand for inhalers over the

largest market share of 40.3 percent in

among the middle class.

forecast period.

terms of revenue in 2018. This segment

Two of the most significant areas of

is driven by the growing demand for

application for the global industry are

hair care products and deodorants. In

Regional insights

automotive and industrial. Increasing

According to filling statistics released

emerging economies, the demand for

consumer awareness regarding the

by the Aerosol Manufacturersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

personal care products is increasing

appearance and maintenance of

Association of South Africa (AMA), the

owing to changing lifestyles, rising

vehicles is propelling the demand

number of locally produced aerosols

consumer spending and an increased

for products such as spray paints

in the personal care category grew

emphasis on gender-specific products.

and automotive cleaning agents. In

by 8.3 percent in 2018, compared to

addition, increasing sales of vehicles is

2017. Aerosols produced locally for the

products segment is attributed to

impacting the consumption of products

household products category declined

an improvement in living standards

like adhesives and sealants, anti-fog

by 10.9 percent, compared to 2017

and increased emphasis on hygiene,

agents and lubricants.

(see Table 1).

Growth of aerosols in the household

especially in developing regions such

In the medical segment, growth

In 2018, Europe held the largest

as Nigeria. This has led to increased

of aerosol products is owing to the

market share of 32.3 percent in terms of

consumption of household products,

increasing demand for dry powder

volume. The region is also the leading

such as air fresheners, cleaners,

respiratory inhalers and metered dose

producer of aerosols. Its large share

sanitising agents and disinfectants.

inhalers, especially in North America.

is mainly attributable to the personal

Dispersion of these products in less

Rising pollution numbers have led to

care industry. Factors including high

quantity reduces wastage and

more and more people suffering from

cosmetics consumption, rapid growth

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| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

AEROSOLS

P&G JOINS THE ON PACK RECYCLING LABEL SCHEME ACCORDING TO A report published by Let’s Recycle, Procter & Gamble (P&G) announced it has joined the On Pack Recycling Label scheme. The global FMCG giant chose the UK-based Recycle Week to announce its new initiative and claims the new system will give consumers ‘simple, consistent and recognisable recycling guidance’. Given that, on average, each global household contains at least four P&G products, the system will boost recycling rates and reduce waste to landfill. ‘Our research shows that advice on-pack is the single most important source of information for consumers on recycling and consumers keep telling us that all they want is consistent messaging, no matter whose packaging they look at,’ Scott Popham, senior communications manager for P&G told Let’s Recycle. ‘This major move by P&G’s brands to roll out the label means millions more will see the advice on their favourite brands, every day. Together, we can shape recycling habits.’

favourable investments, which are expected to create lucrative market opportunities for manufacturers, including those operating in the aerosol industry. Rising consumer spend in emerging Asian economies is also set to boost the

in the fragrance industry, and rise in consumer spending are boosting regional market growth. Despite the increasing demand from the personal care industry, further expansion of the European market for aerosols is hindered by regulations regarding Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) emissions, laid down by the European Commission and Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Yet is has been anticipated that new innovations will see the region overcome this challenge in the near future. For example, in 2017, a new line of Breathe branded aerosol cleaners were introduced and certified by the EPA’s Safer Choice Programme.

demand for aerosols in the personal care, automotive and

Precision Valve SA (PTY) Ltd

paints categories. The fastest growing regional segment is said to be the Middle East and Africa, attributed mainly to an increase in spending on hair care products in countries such as South Africa, Saudi Arabia and the UAE. Grand View Research’s report concludes that the highly competitive nature of the global market will remain, particularly among major players in the industry, such as Proctor & Gamble, Reckitt Benckiser, Unilever, Honeywell International, SC Johnson & Son, and Henkel. •

www.precisionglobal.com

In terms of revenue, Asia Pacific is amongst the fastest growing regions and expected to register a CAGR of 7.1 percent over the forecast period. Governments in China and India

phone: +27 12 541 3340 email: teresa.pereira@precisionglobal.com

Aerosol Manufacturers Association – www.aerosol.co.za Grand View Research – www.grandviewresearch.com

have been focusing on promoting 02.10.18 15:11 P C Review | OCTOBER 2019 | 49

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ADVERTISERS' INDEX

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| OCTOBER 2019 | P C Review

ISW Shrink...............................................38.........www.iswshrink.co.za Java Print ............................................... 13.........www.javaprint.co.za Maccallum ..............................................35.........www.maccallum.co.za Millchem .................................................33.........www.millchem.co.za Precision Valve........................................49.........www.precisionglobal.com Puregas ..................................................47.........www.puregas.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals.................. 15, 27.........www.savannah.co.za Sensient Technologies............................. 17.........www.sensient.com Symrise SA...............................................22.........www.symrise.com Vantage Speciality Chemicals .................37.........www.vantagegrp.com Wacker Chemicals ..................................36.........www.wacker.com/personalcare Wika Instruments.....................................39.........www.wika.co.za

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

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Visitors to the Society of

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M&L LABORATORY

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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review October 2019

Articles inside

Insight into trending markets and new movements

Tips to increase the quality of natural products

The quest for long term skin health

Hemp hype hits an all-time high

A specialist South African business

Scientific conference and industry expo close on a high note

On The Street