SUSTAINABLE www.pharmacos.co.za
SUN CARE Your guide to designing sun protection cosmetics with a stronger environmental narrative
SUPPLEMENT
Caring for your Customers – Our promise. In today’s increasingly fragmented personal care market, consumers expect more than excellent personal care products. www.basf.co.za www.grow-africa.co.za
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Sustainable sun care T he sun care category is no stranger to the clean beauty movement. As consumers want sustainable sunscreen products formulated with effective ingredients, sun protection cosmetics and sunscreens in general are moving towards incorporating a stronger environmental narrative. Safe and responsible sun protection has become more important than ever while mineral sunscreen dispersions are in high demand as a result of their improved sustainability profile and reef-friendly status. There is also a lot of new development around natural and bio-based film-forming polymers to help formulators meet consumers’ needs for high performance sun protection products, which are neither tacky nor greasy and ensure a pleasant skin feel after product application. In the P&C Review July sun care supplement, we explore: • Aprinnova’s Neossance CleanScreen range of dispersions available locally from Savannah Fine Chemicals • SunSpheres Bio SPF booster from Dow which is a high performing, naturally-derived and readily-biodegradable SPF booster sold in South Africa by AECI Specialty Chemicals • Symrise’s highly-effective broad-spectrum absorber blend, Neo Heliopan Flat, and the
functional ingredient SymEffect Sun, which sets new sustainability standards in sun care • EcoSun Pass from BASF Care Creations which is a matrix evaluation system to measure the impact of sunscreen components, like UV filters, on the environment • Carotolino – a botanical active ingredient for blue light protection which is available locally from by AECI Specialty Chemicals • Hallstar’s perspective on the photostabilisation of mineral UV filters and why this is critical to achieve high performance sun care products • SolAmaze Natural, a bio-based and readily biodegradable film-forming polymer from Nouryon and distributed locally by IMCD South Africa. Enjoy the read!
SUPPLEMENT
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Clean beauty UV protection Today, the need for products that combine wellness, safety and sustainability all in one are more important than ever. Aprinnova, represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, now offers mineral sunscreen dispersions for clean beauty sun care products with its new Neossance CleanScreen range of dispersions.
T
he clean beauty trend is no different when it comes to sun care. As with all personal care and cosmetic products, consumers are paying closer attention to label claims and ingredients. Consumers want sustainable sunscreen products formulated with effective ingredients – the adage ‘less is more’, is highly relevant. It’s said there is also a lot of confusion among consumers around the distinction between mineral and chemical formulas. Physical sunscreen ingredients, including the minerals titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, block and scatter UV rays before they penetrate the skin. Chemical sunscreen ingredients, like avobenzone and octisalate, absorb the UV rays before they can damage skin. 4
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THE ADVANTAGES OF CLEANSCREEN: • anti-ageing benefits • UVB and UVA protection • high solids content • non-whitening • even coverage • formulation flexibility. The mineral versus chemical debate is ongoing and has seen suppliers of ingredients place increased emphasis on developing naturally-derived ingredients for UV protection. Trends in the sun care category also show that mineral sunscreens are soaring in popularity. Not only are these formulas reefsafe, but they also tend to be gentler on skin. Neossance CleanScreen mineral sunscreen dispersions from Aprinnova help formulators
Did you know?
create high performing, anti-ageing skin care and colour cosmetics while adhering to the standards of clean beauty. These dispersions of high solids offer significant broad-spectrum performance, which supports anti-ageing skin care claims. Unlike other UV dispersions, CleanScreen disperses particles in a natural and sustainable carrier system of Neossance Hemisqualane, which delivers products with great sensorial properties and aesthetic benefits such as nonwhitening. The high solids composition gives formulators flexibility without sacrificing on the performance desired by consumers.
CLEAN, TRANSPARENT AND SUSTAINABLE According to Aprinnova, mineral sunscreens have gained popularity because of their efficacy in UV attenuation, particularly in the CONTINUED ...
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The Neossance Hemisqualane carrier system is derived from renewable Brazilian sugar cane sources. Waste streams from the process are valorised to generate energy and fertilizer, which contribute to the circular economy. Supply chains are robust, transparent, and drive local economies.
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UVA region of the spectrum. In February 2019, the FDA published a proposed rule stating that 12 commonly accepted chemical sunscreen agents are not considered GRAS and require additional data to demonstrate safety and effectiveness. ZnO and TiO2 are now the only category 1 sunscreens. Meanwhile, consumers are demanding high performance, transparency of supply chains, sustainable chemical practices and, above all, product safety. In short, Aprinnova says consumers want the clean beauty UV protection Neossance CleanScreen offers. CleanScreen dispersions are ideal for masstige and premium sun care products such as facial sunscreens with anti-ageing benefits and sustainable UVA/UVB protection features. Unlike other dispersions, they contain Neossance Hemisqualane which has proven
performance for even coverage in colour cosmetics which is comparable to D5. In sun care, it delivers similar benefits to D5, such as the even distribution of UV filters to reduce gaps in protection while minimising whitening. CleanScreen blocks wavelengths from 280nm to 400nm for UVA and UVB protection, while allowing visible light transmission. It’s great for modern sunscreen products too such as sun sticks and sun milks. High protection sun sticks offer increased convenience in terms of the application and can be packed with additional benefits, such as a smooth, soft glide with even coverage upon application. Have a look at Table 1 for formulation inspiration for a SPF 50 mineral sun stick designed with clean beauty in mind.
Table 1: Mineral sun stick SPF 50 Phase
Ingredient
A
Neossance Hemisqualane
B
%
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
5.00
Butyloctyl Salicylate
8.00
C13-15 Alkane
19.00
Microcrystalline wax
0.50
Polyethylene
3.00
Ceresin
8.00
Neossance CleanScreen Z80
Zinc Oxide & C13-15 Alkane & Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate & Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Neossance CleanScreen T65
Titanium Dioxide & C13-15 Alkane & Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate & Silica & Triethoxycaprylylsilane
5.00
Diisostearyl Malate
2.50
Silica
17.00
C
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INCI
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32.00
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DELIVERING A NEW STANDARD Today, cosmetic formulators are increasingly challenged to address social responsibility needs while simultaneously meeting the traditional requirements of performance and cost. Incremental improvements in the sustainability profile of raw materials meet the desire of consumers to buy responsibly and enable brands to achieve their CSR targets. Aprinnova’s Neossance ingredients support cruelty-free, natural, and ethical claims backed by genuine impact. The company is a leading manufacturer of high performance, natural and sustainable emollients and silicone replacements
derived from sugarcane. Its Neossance brand Squalane and Hemisqualane ingredients are used by many of the fastest growing skin care brands in the world. Aprinnova leverages cutting-edge biotechnology manufacturing capabilities and 70 years of cosmetics industry expertise to deliver a new standard that makes sustainability a competitive advantage. The company says its just one way a brand can ‘go clean’. It hopes to work across the global industry to support beauty that’s good for the consumer and great for the planet. • Aprinnova – www.aprinnova.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
CUTTING EDGE TECHNOLOGY WITH SENSORY EXPERTISE WHICH WILL SET YOU APART
RELIABLE – CONSISTENT – SUSTAINABLE – QUALITY DRIVEN
From basic ingredients to specialty actives for key application areas Sun Care | Skin Care | Hair Care | Baby Care | Hygiene | Oral Care Johannesburg: +27 11 856 4500 Cape Town: +27 21 551 5353
Durban: +27 31 202 0794 Email: info@savannah.co.za
www.savannah.co.za
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Ramp up summer beauty with
safe and responsible sun protection Sunscreens are a hot topic at the moment, with brands having to formulate new products for the summer season. Yet formulators are left perplexed by the uncertainty around the negative impacts of UV filters on humans and the environment. Jacques Strydom, technical manager at AECI Specialty Chemicals, highlights the benefits of sunscreens, reviews some of the concerns and offers a solution to formulators and brands.
I
t has been known for many years that overexposure to the sun’s ultraviolet radiation not only causes premature skin ageing, but also plays a vital role in the development of certain types of skin cancers. UV radiation is a proven cause of basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), which often appear on sun-exposed areas of skin. Furthermore, the level of UV exposure that typically leads to sunburn has been proven to play a strong role in developing melanoma, the most dangerous of the three most common types of skin cancer. 8
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It is for this reason that authorities and cancer foundations have been advising the public to use high SPF sunscreens when going to the beach or on hikes where long exposure to the sun is to be expected. However, there is another side to the sunscreen coin. This is the uncertainty regarding the potential effects of long-term sunscreen usage on the human biology. Sunscreens can be either organic or inorganic and the ones that are under scrutiny are the organic, lipophilic sunscreens, like octocrylene, which protect the skin by absorbing UVA and UVB energy. Researchers are concerned about
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the considerable bioavailability of organic UV filters due to their absorption into the skin as well as the uncertain role they might play in endocrine disruption. Furthermore, researchers and environmentalists are concerned about the effects that consumer chemicals may have on marine life in particular, which has also warranted studies on the role organic sunscreens may play in this regard. Much of this evidence is based on small-scale laboratory observations or small groups of human participants, but certainly raises uncertainty in the industry and for consumers.
0.97 natural origin
CONTINUED ...
index ISO 16128
supports market demand for natural
formulations
delivers various benefits including
thickening and shear thinning
FSC
wood pulp-based ingredient
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BOOSTING PROTECTION PERFORMANCE According to Richard Weller, honorary consultant dermatologist at the University of Edinburgh: “any conversation on sunscreen must start with acknowledging that there is robust evidence that it prevents skin cancer”. Perhaps we can start by optimising the use of sunscreens, so that less sun filters are used in a formulation to achieve high sun protection efficacy. One way of accomplishing this is to use SPF boosters, which typically enhance the ability of a sun filter to absorb UV radiation through mechanisms of homogenous dispersion of UV filters or a light scattering mechanism, which increases the probability of the UV ray being absorbed by the sun filter.
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See how SunSpheres SPF boosters make sunscreen formulations feel lighter and more pleasing for consumers.
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SUNSPHERES BIO SPF BOOSTER FOR EFFICIENT SUN CARE FORMULATIONS: • bio-derived SPF booster from FSCcertified wood pulp • 97% natural content (ISO 16128) • readily biodegradable • safe for the oceans
• for use with organic and inorganic UV filters • recommended use level of 1% to 3% • validated performance — SPF in vitro and in vivo tested
• exhibits stabilising, thickening and shear thinning properties • listed in catalogue of cosmetic ingredients in China • INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose.
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"Any conversation on sunscreen must start with acknowledging that there is robust evidence that it prevents skin cancer" SUNSPHERES BIO SPF BOOSTER Dow offers a solution that addresses the abovementioned concerns, called SunSpheres Bio SPF booster. This material is a high performing, naturally derived and readily biodegradable SPF booster, which demonstrates SPF-boosting performance at use levels as low as 1% and up to 3%. With an attractive INCI name of Microcrystalline Cellulose, this material brings something novel to the sun care market as it’s not only sustainable, but also highly efficacious. This has been validated in in vitro and in vivo SPF studies. Meant to be used with organic or inorganic UV filters, SunSpheres Bio SPF booster is a versatile, multifunctional ingredient that
delivers stabilising, thickening and shear thinning properties in your formulations. This means the material provides SPF boosting with the added benefit of viscosity enhancement. Ultimately, it’s use could result in a reduction of rheology modifiers in your existing formulation coupled with a reduction in UV filters to achieve the same SPF as before.
IMPRESSIVE TEST RESULTS The results of the in vivo test on SunSpheres Bio SPF booster in an o/w sunscreen formulation that contained organic UV filters, showed 1.5% of the material roughly increased the formulation’s SPF score by 50%, which is extremely impressive. When paired with a film former like Epitex 99 from Dow, an amazing sunscreen formulation can be attained with non-tacky and non-greasy aesthetics. The job of the film former is to turn the o/w formulation into one that repels water and sweat. It also makes the formulation last much longer on the skin, for extended protection and less reapplication of the sunscreen. • AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com Dow – www.dow.com
® and ™ are trademarks of The Dow Chemical Company © 2020
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Formulate sun protection cosmetics
with a strong environmental narrative Originally focused on UV radiation defence, today light protection has evolved beyond the primary focus of beach and holiday products. This evolution has seen the sun care category being revamped to include finished products with a strong environmental narrative, and which promise to protect skin from the negative effects of infra-red and even visible and blue light.
S
ymrise has been pioneering skin protection for over 80 years. As a result, the company offers a broad portfolio of ingredients to meet consumers’ changing needs for sun and light protection. While providing the best possible protection will always be the central goal of sun care offerings, Symrise recognises that consumers are increasingly demanding more from the products
they use. By harnessing the power of its cross-divisional capabilities, the company can also offer the most appealing scents and enjoyable cosmetic textures for use in designing next level sun protection products. Its regional Did you know? application • 84% of consumers say it’s important laboratories to protect from UV rays and daylight provide even if the sun isn’t shining.
• 55% of consumers reapply their
sun protection every two hours as recommended to stay protected. • 80% of consumers believe wrinkles can be avoided by efficient sun protection. Source: CMI Data Source, Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients consumer database
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Table 1: Sunscreen Lotion, exp. SPF 50+ Phase A
B
Ingredient
INCI
%
Water
Aqua
43.6
SymOcide PH
Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Aqua
1.4
Hydrolite 5 green
Pentylene Glycol
2.0
Edeta BD
Disodium EDTA
0.1
Avicel PC 611
Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum
0.8
Bentone EW
HECTORITE
0.8
Neo Heliopan Flat
Homosalate, Octocrylene, BisEthylhexyloxyphenol, Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate
30.0
SymEffect Varytex
Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate, Triisononanoin, Diisopropyl Adipate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearyl Heptanoate, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Cetearyl Nonanoate, Stearyl Caprylate
20.0
Cosphaderm X Soft
Xanthan Gum
0.3
Fragrance
Parfum
1.0
support to customers, both in South Africa and worldwide, in the formulation of sun care products that meet local market needs.
BROAD-SPECTRUM ABSORBER BLEND Symrise’s Neo Heliopan range of sun protection materials comprises solutions for UVA, UVB and broad-spectrum protection, enabling the company to provide impactful solutions across various market demands. The newest product in this range is the highlyeffective broad-spectrum absorber blend, Neo Heliopan Flat. It delivers a relatively flat, uniform absorbance of light in the range of 300nm to 360nm. Neo Heliopan Flat is liquid and therefore easy to handle and dose. It can be used in a wide range of applications from lotions and creams to sprays, oils and balms.
The technology also reduces manufacturing complexities, making it suitable for all processes and emulsions, namely hot/hot, hot/cold, cold/cold and all-in-one pot manufacturing. A formulation inspiration for an SPF 50+ sunscreen lotion is included in Table 1.
NEW STANDARDS FOR SUSTAINABILITY Sustainable sunscreen formulations are also a key area of focus for Symrise. With SymEffect Sun, the company is setting new standards for sustainability in sun protection cosmetics. Cosmetics manufacturers are faced with the challenge of having to develop modern sunscreen products, which are not only highly effective but also meet the increasing sustainability requirements of consumers. CONTINUED ...
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Many consumers want responsibly sourced, eco-friendly ingredients as alternatives to traditional raw materials. But the formulation performance, stability and sensorial attributes still need to be similar to products designed with traditional ingredients.
As this conundrum is also applicable to sun protection products, Symrise has succeeded in overcoming the challenge with the functional ingredient SymEffect Sun. So innovative, it received first prize in the Functionals category at the BSB Innovation Awards 2020,
Table 2: Cushion foundation exp. SPF 30 Phase
Ingredient
INCI
%
A
Emulsiphos
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides
2.00
Neo Heliopan Flat
Homosalate, Octocrylene, BisEthylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate
15.00
SymDecanox HA
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
1.00
Edeta BD
Disodium EDTA
0.10
SymMollient PDCC
Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate
7.00
Isodragol
Triisononanoin
1.00
SymMollient S green
Cetearyl Nonanoate
3.00
SymEffect Sun
Cera Alba, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
2.00
Miglyol Gel 840 B
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite
5.00
Food Colour Titanium Dioxide C.I.77891
CI 77891, Glycerin, Aqua
5.00
Food Colour Brown E172+E171 Powder
CI 77891, CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 77499
6.00
Water
Aqua
48.15
Avicel PC 611
Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum
1.00
SymOcide PH
Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Aqua
1.45
Hydrolite 5 green
Pentylene Glycol
1.80
SymSol PF-3
Aqua, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Oleoyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Oleate
0.50
B
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which were presented virtually. This recognition underscores Symrise’s role as an industry leader in innovation and strengthens its strategy of promoting sustainability as an integral part of its business model.
BASED ON RENEWABLE SOURCES “SymEffect Sun takes a decisive step towards more sustainability and naturalness in sun protection cosmetics. The ingredient is based entirely on renewable raw materials from responsible sources,” says Lars Jung, senior global product manager functionals at Symrise. “Winning first place motivates us to continue to
set high goals for ourselves and to work on innovative products whose environmental impact is kept as low as possible.” This functional ingredient pursues a 360° approach, offering a holistic way to meet the multiple challenges of modern sunscreen products. It comes from natural sources, increases the efficiency of the UV filters and improves formulation stability. It also significantly improves water resistance and ensures a pleasant skin feeling after application of a sun protection product. • Symrise – www.symrise.com
Sun Protection
A DEEPER KNOWLEDGE
Discover our broad portfolio of ingredients that deliver protection from UVA, UVB, infrared and even visible light. Efficient solutions that set a new standard in consumer safety and skin care, paired with advanced formulation expertise for the most enjoyable cosmetic textures.
COSMETIC INGREDIENTS BY SYMRISE always inspiring more ... www.symselect.com I www.symrise.com Follow us on Instagram @symrise.ci
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23.06.20 15:16
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How to analyse the
environmental impact of sunscreens Environmental awareness continues to grow and is now even a driver of the sun care category. It increasingly determines the choices of today’s consumers, which is why it’s important to develop more sustainable solutions for sun care. By Marcel Schnyder, head of BASF’s global technical centre for sun care
M
ore and more people are willing to have reached a high level of awareness and adapt their consumption behaviour are widely discussed in the media. We expect with regard to the environmental this trend to continue or even accelerate and consequences of the products it’s highly likely that the demand for ecoBASF’s they use. This also applies friendly sun protection products will EcoSun Pass label to cosmetics. As part rise significantly in the future. of this development, As a result, the personal care the potential impact industry is being asked to sunscreens may find solutions. Additionally, have on various consumers are asking which ecosystems has ingredients are safe and received a great what is the impact on the deal of attention, especially the Did you know? wellbeing of corals and The EcoSun Pass was recently awarded coral reefs. The adverse the BSB Innovation Prize 2020 in the effects of sunscreen ingredients category Concepts. An initial group of on these underwater eco-systems, marine customers are also using BASF’s EcoSun Pass as a marketing tool, displaying life, endocrine disruption and bioaccumulation the EcoSun Pass label on their sun care packaging as a verification symbol. Visit www.carecreations.basf.com/ecosun-pass for more info.
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BASF is introducing a methodology to assess the environmental impact of sunscreen formulations
SEE MORE environment when all the ingredients are put together to make a formulation?
NEW MATRIX EVALUATION SYSTEM Until recently, no transparent or scientifically sound system to rank and potentially improve the environmental impact of a given formulation has been available on the market. As a global market leader in sun care ingredients, BASF has developed a matrix evaluation system to measure the impact of sunscreen components on the environment. The EcoSun Pass from BASF Care Creations is a methodology to assess the
environmental impact of UV filters used in sunscreen formulations. Using a completely new approach, it allows for the holistic and transparent assessment of UV filters with regard to their environmental impact based on internationally recognised criteria. It not only considers environmental factors for individual UV filters, but also provides a comprehensive environmental evaluation of the entire filter system within a sunscreen product. This comprises eight different parameters, including the acute and chronic aquatic toxicity of a substance, e.g. the intrinsic capability of a substance to cause damage to aquatic organisms after short- or long-term exposure. CONTINUED ...
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RATING AND RANKING SUBSTANCES The bioaccumulation potential of a substance is assessed using a two-step approach with the octanol/water partitioning coefficient (log POW) as an initial screening criterion, followed by more profound data (i.e. bioaccumulation studies). Another aspect, which is part of the assessment of our EcoSun Pass, is the biodegradation of a substance, e.g. the breaking down of organic matter by microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi, and how quickly this happens.
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The endocrine-related impact of a substance or indication that it may disrupt the hormone systems of organisms are also evaluated and form part of the assessment. Moreover, the EcoSun Pass considers the effects of a substance on terrestrial flora and fauna as well as the damage it may cause to sedimentdwelling organisms. A specific environmental ranking is assigned to each substance and all eco-ranked substances in a given formulation are then rated on an open-ended scale. We created an algorithm to calculate the effect of a sunscreen formulation on the
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"BASF’s goal is to support customers to meet the increasing demand for more sustainable products formulated with environmentally friendly ingredients" environment which takes the eight parameters into account for each UV filter. The EcoSun Pass value for any given formulation is normalised for its sun protection factor. This basically prevents sunscreens from being rated ‘poor’ because of their high efficacy and filter concentration. Therefore, the higher the EcoSun Pass value for a formulation, the more environmentally friendly it is. The assessment of these different aspects of environmental impact provides customers with a comprehensive evaluation of their filter systems, allowing formulators to develop sunscreens with the highest degree of environmental compatibility without compromising on performance.
environmentally friendly ingredients. The evaluation system is based on the latest scientific findings, which improve regulatory acceptance. What’s more, the EcoSun Pass works entirely independently of the BASF product portfolio. In a given formulation, UV filters from various producers are assessed transparently and possible formulation improvements may or may not involve BASF ingredients. One approach to formulating sunscreens with improved environmental compatibility is to select the most efficient UV filters with better environmental profiles and use the lowest possible concentrations. This also makes formulations as light as possible without lowering the level of performance or efficacy. Success proves that this is the right approach. For BASF, consumers’ growing environmental consciousness will remain an important driver to continue developing sustainable and greener solutions that don’t compromise on performance. •
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Marcel Schnyder has 40 years’ experience in the home and personal care industries. For more than 10 years now, he has been responsible for the sun care global technical centre and established the technical support on UV filters for Ciba and, after integration, for BASF. Schnyder is member of the German IFSCC and has presented papers at international congresses such as in-cosmetics, ABC and Coschem Scientific Congress.
AN INDEPENDENT SOLUTION The EcoSun Pass can already be used in the early development phase of a sunscreen product, allowing the eco-friendliest product to be brought to market. BASF’s goal is to support customers to meet the increasing demand for more sustainable products formulated with
BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com
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Carotolino
– a botanical active for blue light protection Natural and artificial blue light damages skin and induces premature ageing. Carotenoids are nature’s answer to blue light protection, as they shield skin and protect it against blue-light induced oxidative stress.
Did you know? Blue light-induced skin damage originates from two sources: natural blue light, which is part of sunlight and artificial blue light, which comes from electronic devices. Lately, it has become a trend in the beauty industry that consumers need to protect their skin from exposure to indoor artificial blue light.
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S
unlight is essential for our health, but excessive exposure can cause skin damage. In the past decades, scientists focused on UV light and developed products to protect the skin against its harmful effects. However, natural sunlight also contains blue light, which again has beneficial as well as detrimental effects. Blue light influences our circadian rhythm and, on a positive note, contributes to a healthy sleep pattern. Yet it penetrates deep into the skin and triggers oxidative stress, resulting in premature ageing. As a result, consumer demand for blue light protection is increasing, as it is highly related to growing digital dependence. Although natural sunlight is a source of blue light, today much of the blue light we are exposed to comes from electronic devices, such as TVs, computers and smartphones. The excessive use of these devices necessitates modern skin care to protect against daily natural and artificial blue light exposure.
FAST FACTS ON
CAROTOLINO This active ingredient is a stabilised, lipophilic extract of carrots, enriched in carotenoids. When applied topically, carotenoids readily integrate into human skin membranes, where they protect naturally against blue light. Besides topical application, Carotolino contributes to an attractive skin colour. Carotenoids balance unhealthy, pale and greenish skin tones by imparting a subtle touch of vivid and attractive colour. The accumulation of carotenoids in skin after application of Carotolino provides: • direct blue light protection by
absorbing and shielding blue light
• indirect blue light protection by neutralising blue light-induced
DIFFERENT LIGHT SOURCES AFFECT SKIN
oxidative stress • improved skin colour by providing
All types of light can damage skin, each by a different mechanism. If we look at UV radiation,
a healthy and vivid skin tone, be it Caucasian, African or Asian skin.
CONTINUED ...
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it is directly absorbed by DNA, which causes DNA lesions. Such lesions may be mutagenic, resulting in photo ageing or leading to other health concerns like skin cancer. Humans produce melanin to protect the skin against UV exposure. It is a persistent misconception that visible light is safe for skin – visible light, especially blue light, causes indirect damage. Visible light is absorbed by melanin, which generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) upon excitation. In fact, after sun exposure, about 50% of ROS produced in human skin originate from visible and infrared light. ROS damage DNA, disturb the epidermal barrier, induce inflammation and accentuate the signs of premature skin ageing, including hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, loss of elasticity or dryness.
SHIELD AND PROTECT WITH CAROTENOIDS Lipoid Kosmetik, represented in South Africa by AECI Specialty Chemicals, offers a solution that addresses the concerns of artificial blue light. Lipoid Kosmetik is a leading manufacturer of high-quality actives and botanicals and a supplier of phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry. As a pioneer in these fields, the company has gained an outstanding reputation in the global cosmetics industry over the last 45 years. This long-standing expertise, in combination with the exceptional quality of the portfolio of ingredients, enables its customers to develop innovative, functional 22
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and natural cosmetics and beauty products meeting the highest standards. Nature’s answer to blue light is carotenoids as they shield plants and protect them from blue-light induced oxidative stress. Lipoid Kosmetik’s active ingredient Carotolino is designed to supply carotenoids to the skin, where they can naturally act as a defensive shield against blue light and reduce oxidative stress. It’s efficacy in blue light protection
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Do you want to know more about how blue light affects the skin? Check out this peer-reviewed study of the effects of blue light on the skin, published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology in 2010. Although this relatively small study is 10 years old, it’s still referenced by many dermatologist experts.
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is based on the unique combination of carrot root extract, carrot seed oil and β-carotene, all united in a basis of canola oil to provide perfectly stabilised carotenoids.
of skin, independent of ethnicity. An in vivo study demonstrates that Carotolino creates a subtle colour optimisation, shifting pale and dull skin tones to a more lively and healthy appearance. A consumer study further confirms that Carotolino adds value to a cosmetic formulation and produces tangible skin colour improvement – improvement that is felt, experienced and enjoyed by consumers. In essence, Carotolino incorporates the best of carrots including stabilised carotenoids. It reduces blue light-induced skin damage while adding a vivid look at the same time. These proven benefits make this botanical active a trendy ingredient that synergistically targets the protection and liveliness of skin while supporting the development of modern skin care concepts. •
TANGIBLE SKIN COLOUR IMPROVEMENT
AECI Specialty Chemicals – Charmaine.DuPreez@aeciworld.com Lipoid Kosmetik – www.lipoid-kosmetik.com
Besides the photo-protective activity, topically applied carotenoids can improve the colour
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Achieve efficient, elegant and safe sun care with photostabilised mineral UV filters
The photostabilisation of mineral UV filters is critical to achieve high performance, elegant and safe mineral-only or hybrid sun care products. Hallstar’s photostabilisation technology and its scientific performance measurement platform are a reliable partner to achieve this goal. Hallstar’s sun care solutions are available in South Africa from Millchem.
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SUN CARE
T
he importance of photostability for chemical UV filters has been well recognised in the sun care market. However, when it comes to mineral UV filters such as zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide (TiO2), there is a common misconception that they work only by reflecting and scattering sunlight and are therefore safer options. Mineral-only sunscreens are often considered natural sunscreens. These are becoming increasingly popular, despite the drawbacks such as heavy sensory, a whitening effect and a difficulty to reach high UV performance. A closer look at these mineral UV filters reveals their photocatalysis nature. Both ZnO and TiO2 are semiconducting materials capable of absorbing UV energy up to 400nm, which contributes to the most of their UV shielding ability. After absorbing UV energy, these mineral particles are promoted to their higher energy conduction band and become photoactive, generating reactive oxygen species (ROS) that are harmful to skin. In a hybrid system, where organic and mineral UV filters are combined, the photolability of mineral UV filters accelerates the photodegradation of organic UV filters.
THE BENEFITS OF DPPH TESTING Effective photostabilisation of mineral UV filters not only prevents ROS generation and makes them safer, but also improves their
Commercialised ZnO only
Commercialised ZnO: photostabiliser = 1 : 0.5
HALLSTAR’S PHOTOSTABILISERS SHOWCASED IN THIS ARTICLE • SolaStay S1 is an extremely powerful photostabiliser for organic and inorganic UV filters and anti-photoageing active ingredients. • HallBrite BHB is a globally-approved multifunctional emollient and solvent, and polarity-optimising photostabiliser for organic UV filters. It has excellent dispersing and wetting properties for mineral UV filters and pigments. • AvoBrite is an efficient photostabiliser for organic and inorganic UV filters and antiphotoageing active ingredients. It is also China compliant.
photoprotection efficacy. As a result, a lower amount is needed to reach the same or higher SPF/PFA performance. Conventional surface treatment of mineral UV filters is not sufficient. To reveal and monitor the photoactivity of inorganic filters, Commercialised Commercialised Z O: photostabiliser Z O: photostabiliser Hallstar proposes a =1:1 =1:2 test utilising the wellstudied chemistry of DPPH (1,1-diphenyl2-picrylhydrazyl). The unreacted DPPH radical has a deep violet colour in solution. When it reacts with and n
n
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SUN CARE
SEE
Hallstar’s sun care solutions allow formulators to design sun care MORE products with improved sun protection performance and better aesthetics. The secret to achieving these benefits lies in Hallstar’s photostabilisation technology. Check out this video for more information.
is neutralised by other radicals, the solution becomes pale yellow to colourless. During a typical test, ethanolic solutions of 0.01% (w/w) DPPH were used to disperse mineral UV filters or formulations. The solution was irradiated under simulated sunlight or natural sunlight. The faster the colour changes, the more the ROS generation. Quantitative analysis of ROS generation speed can be achieved by measuring the DPPH
concentration. In addition, utilising Solasure – Hallstar’s patented in vitro testing platform – UV protection performance of commonlyused ZnO and TiO2 grades with or without Hallstar photostabilisers are scientifically compared at the same sunscreen film thickness. Reproducible data shows that when Hallstar photostabilisers are incorporated, ROS generation of mineral UV filters is effectively inhibited, and a higher SPF/PFA can be achieved
Table 1 Formula
Filter + photostabilisers
Sunscreen film thickness 13um SPF
PFA
Z-19
10% ZnO
2.2
2.1
Z-24
6%ZnO + 5%HallBrite®BHB + 4.5%AvoBrite®
7.2
3.2
Z-25
4%ZnO + 5% HallBrite®BHB + 3%SolaStay®S1
8.5
3.4
An example of a widely-used ZnO powder product in a sunscreen formulation
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SUN CARE
with lower UV filter dosage, significantly reducing whitening and tackiness. Table 1 includes an example of a widely-used ZnO powder product in a sunscreen formulation.
IMPROVED SUNSCREEN PERFORMANCE From this study, it’s clear to see that when Hallstar photostabilisers – either a combination of HallBrite BHB and SolaStay S1, or HallBrite BHB and AvoBrite – are incorporated in a ZnO formulation, higher UV protection performance is achieved with lower ZnO dosage. This is thanks to the improved ZnO absorbing efficiency and dispersion quality.
ROS generation is also effectively inhibited. The overall sensorial portfolio is much more pleasant, with less whitening and lighter skin feel. These additional benefits are also noted: • the ROS generating rate of the formulation is reduced by 66% • equal or better sunscreen performance is provided at 40% to 60% less ZnO • formulation whitening and heaviness are significantly reduced. •
Hallstar – www.hallstar.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za
NEXT GENERATION SUN CARE Millchem, through our representation of Hallstar, bring you powerful and innovative sun care solutions delivering exceptional stabilization, aesthetics and feel to formulations. SolaStay®S1
|
HallBrite®BHB |
AvoBrite®
Unlike UV filters that strongly absorb solar radiation, our products provide a stabilization effect to formulations by returning UV filters to their ground states, eliminating UV filter instability and the creation of harmful reactive oxygen species upon exposure to sunlight. For more information contact giulio@millchem.co.za JOHANNESBURG: +27 (0)11 974 2255 CAPE TOWN: +27 (0)21 557 6527/8 DURBAN: +27 (0)31 569 1486/1458
www.millchem.co.za
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SUN CARE
New natural polymer for sustainable
sunscreens
Nouryon has introduced a natural film-forming polymer for use in high sun protection factor emulsion sunscreens. SolAmaze Natural, which is bio-based and readily biodegradable, addresses fast-growing consumer demand for natural and clean label ingredients in personal care products.
“W
hen creating high-performing sunscreens, formulators routinely rely on synthetic ingredients that are often persistent in the environment,” says Suzanne Carroll, vice president home and personal care at Nouryon. “SolAmaze Natural polymer allows our customers to develop more natural, sustainable sunscreens while providing superior water resistance and an improved feel on the skin.” SolAmaze Natural is compatible with other ingredients used in sunscreen formulations and
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can be used across a range of end products. These include traditional organic and mineral sunscreens, as well as SPF moisturisers, colour cosmetics, and face and body lotions. It is nontoxic to aquatic life and produced from nonhazardous raw materials.
DRIVEN TO PROVIDE SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS “The persistence of chemicals in our environment is increasingly in the focus of consumers,” says Larry Ryan, Executive vice
SUN CARE
president and president, performance formulations and The Americas for Nouryon. “By developing natural-based products, we are giving formulators more options so that they can meet consumers’ demands for more sustainable product formats.” SolAmaze is the latest in a series of natural products introduced by Nouryon for the personal care market. These include Amaze Nordic Barley, a certified natural starch that is used to replace petrochemical-based ingredients in skin and hair care products and Amaze SP, a plant-based polymer that helps
formulators to create more natural hairstyle products for consumers. Nouryon’s ingredients and formulation technologies are available locally from IMCD South Africa. •
Suzanne Carroll, vice president home and personal care at Nouryon
IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com Nouryon – www.nouryon.com
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ADVERTISERS' INDEX AECI Specialty Chemicals..................23 .......www.dow.com charmaine.dupreez@aeciworld.com BASF Holdings South Africa............IFC........www.grow-africa.com IMCD SA ..................................................29........www.personalcare. marketing@nouryon.com Millchem..................................................27........www.millchem.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals................... 7........www.savannah.co.za Symrise SA .............................................15........www.symrise.com
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