Vietnam Heritage June - July 2019

3:9 JUN-JUL 2019

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CONTENT No 2, VOL.9, APRIL - MAY 2019

LANDMARKS

8 A divine flagpole of the Vietnamese TRAVEL

10 Xin Man at a glance CEREMONY

12 Traditional wedding of the White Yao people TRAVEL

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14 The fabulous Phu Tho tea hills ARCHITECTURE

16 Bridges that distill the love of the native land 22 Bui Chu Cathedral NATURE

28 Exploring Pu Mat conservation zone CRAFTS

30 Typical trade villages going “extinct”?

32 Silver carving by Po Ho Creek CONSERVATION

34 Tourism remains far away from Hue village’s reach 36 Cultural touches grieve locals of the royal city 38 40 42 44

BEVERAGE

C.Brewery or the Heart of Brightness EVENTS

WHAT THE PAPERS SAY

DIRECTIONS

Cover photograph: A painting of Bui Chu Cathedral Painting by Pham Anh Quan, Urban Sketchers Hanoi Published by the Cultural Heritage Association of Vietnam

Publication licence No: 1648/GP-BTTTT from the Ministry of Information and Communications of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam for the English-language edition of The Gioi Di San (The World of Heritage) magazine Editor-in-Chief: Le Thanh Hai Public Relations Director: Bui Thi Hang Managing Editor: Kha Tu Anh; Sub-editing: Erik Johnson, Le Hoai Nam Assistant: Van Thanh Nga, Nguyen Dang Khoa Designer: Thanh Mai; Contributing Photographers: Nguyen Ba Han, Hoang Quoc Tuan, Hoang The Nhiem, Huynh Van Nam, Le Hoai Phuong, Nguyen Anh Tuan; Nguyen Ba Ngoc Correspondent: Pip de Rouvray; Advertising and Circulation: Green Viet Advertising JSC Email: tapchidisanvietnam@gmail.com & vnheritagemagazine@gmail.com Thanh Hai 0903 03 0808 ; Thuy Phuong 0969 47 3579 Contact in the US for subscription and advertising: 2628 Sturla dr. San Jose, CA 95148 Vietnam Heritage is produced in Vietnam and printed at Army Printing House No 2. © All rights reserved.

Vietnam Heritage Magazine 1/1 Hoang Viet St., Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (84-28) 38 118846

Fax: (84-28) 38 118775 Email: vnheritagemagazine@gmail.com

www.vietnamheritage.com.vn

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Mui Ne Sand Dunes

Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province, 2015 Photo: Pham Van Thanh

Photo from Exhibitions of Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards 2017

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LANDMARKS

A DIVINE FLAGPOLE

OF THE VIETNAMESE TEXT BY LE HOA KHANH PHOTO BY TRAN BINH AN

Lung Cu Peak of Dragon Mountain, rises 1470m above sea level and belongs to Lung Cu Commune, Dong Van District, Ha Giang Province. Sharing a border with China, this mountain has witnessed the long history of the Vietnamese fighting against foreign aggressors. That is why Lung Cu is considered a sacred place of the Vietnamese people.

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istorical records say that the generalissimo Ly Thuong Kiet (1019-1105) once set his flag on Lung Cu. Since then, kings and military leaders of Vietnam have always had their eyes on Lung Cu. Vietnamese flags are often seen flying proudly on a high pole over the peak.

The more robust Lung Cu flag post was built in 2002. It has an octagonal stem similar to the flag post of Hanoi, but smaller and only 20m high. The octagonal base or pedestal is decorated with eight reliefs illustrating the historical periods of Vietnam and the customs of the Ha Giang people. The 9m long and 6m wide Vietnamese flag soars majestically on top of a high pole.

The 54m2 area of the flag represents 54 ethnicities living in the territory of Vietnam.

Seen from below, the wind-filled red flag emblazoned with a golden star in its center seems to be elevating the flag-post and the solemn mountain beneath it.

To reach the Lung Cu flag post, visitors must climb 700 stone stairs. The view changes with every step, becoming more and more breathtaking, and so do the feelings, as one gets higher and higher.

At the top,visitors can contemplate a panoramic view of rolling hills and hamlets of ethnic minorities scattered on the slopes.

To see even more from a higher point, visitors can climb the spiral staircase inside the flag-post. After 140 more steps, one comes out to an open court which seems to be floating in the heavens.

As a historical vestige related to millennia of border defense, surrounded by natural grandeur, Lung Cu flag post in recent years has attracted tourists from far and wide. n

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Ha Giang

HCM City

The Lung Cu flag post is about 200km from Ha Giang Township. Starting from Ha Giang Township, following the national highway 4C eastward for about 160km, one comes to Dong Van Commune of Dong Van District. From here, follow the asphalt road for about 40km to Lung Cu Peak. There are many buses taking this route.

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TRAVEL

Xin Man at a glance

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LE THANH CUONG

n April, the last fiery flowers of the cotton trees spark on mountain slopes.

With the long-brewing desire inside to conquer the scenic tourist path from Bac Ha (Lao Cai) to Xin Man, the most desolate highland district of Ha Giang Province, we hit the road on a beautiful weekend.

From Bac Ha township, the winding road up the Lung Phinh slope to the Lung Cai – Ban Gia fork is very smooth, lined with newly planted corn fields that began rooting and springing tender buds and terrace fields waiting for the first rain showers to begin new crops. Some milpas previously used to grow soya are now growing pharmaceuticals in order to make more income for local farmers. Looking from above down at the rows of ashweed and artichoke covered with nylon sheets, one realizes how well the highland farmers are catching up with new technologies.

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Having passed Lung Cai, we come to the frontier area, which begins with Nan Ma Commune, where it is rumored among trampers the valley is fantastic during the season of ripening rice. Although coming not at the time this natural scene is exhibited, we had nevertheless a very specific feeling one always has when coming for the first time to a new land. We passed the center of the commune with a school, an administrative center and houses on the roadsides, just like the other Bac Ha and Si Ma Cai highland communes of Lao Cai. Nan Ma folks told us that this national tourist destination witnessed the heroic death of 11 military entertainers during the war of resistance. The place also boasts the Cave of Fairies where one can pray for good health.

It was summer but the weather felt like that of autumn, making the journey so much more pleasurable amidst the

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imposing, majestic highlands. We were especially impressed by the rocky mountains and the paddy fields full of big and small rocks scattered all around. Here and there, rocks stack up like massive quires of stone papers. Sometimes we encounter Xin Man villagers working the rocky land before sowing the seeds, an image we have previously seen only on TV. Forest flowers bloom timidly on the slopes. A rare coral tree covered in brightly red flowers stood out like a landmark in the serenity of the mountains.

From the top of the slope in Nan Ma, we looked down at the multiple coils of the road deep in the gorge, knowing that’s the path we would take to get to Coc Pai. The view before us was breathtaking. We went under lush pine groves that whistled in the wind.

The town of Coc Pai sunk deep at the bottom of the gorge at the end of the coils of the road. Someone in our group was so

TRAVEL

moved by the scenery as to utter a few verses lauding the beauty of the fatherland. At Coc Pai, the center of the Xin Man District, we asked about the way to proceed. From hearsay, from the 0km post of Coc Pai township, one has to go 25km to get to the Xin Man frontier bazaar or to the Fairy waterfall, and 145km to reach the chief town of the Ha Giang Province. But some folks in Coc Pai say that it will be possible to get up to the Fairy waterfall only in May-June.

Perhaps because there are now outstanding professional services like in other famous tourist destinations, here at Xin Man, instead of fuss and crowds, we felt very quiet, very private, very relaxed, completely freed from the mundane haste. Many foreign tourists like to come here just to walk around in the village and share the everyday life with the local ethnic minorities of H’Mon, Cao Lan, Nung, Yao, La Chi, Phu La, Tay etc. on these rocky mountains. That’s why the stretch of road between Bac Ha – Xin Man is so suitable for the tourists who want to explore and experience the eternal calm, the poetic and majestic scenery, the simple life

and unique culture of the local highlanders.

On the tourist map of Ha Giang Province, Xin Man is marked as an attractive destination with locations planned by the district government to be developed into typical tourist packages to attract visitors to this rocky plateau. From the words of a Coc Pai town resident as we took a rest, tourists coming to Xin Man can visit Fairy Waterfall, Windy Pass, the ancient rock field in Nam Zan Gorge at the headwaters of Chay River, and hot spring at Nam Choong (Quang Nguyen Commune.) They can also enjoy foods and drinks of the local ethnic minorities and learn about the unique features of their culture, as well as legends about places that have secrets yet to be deciphered.

Winding roads, rocky mountains, rumbling waterfalls, scenic terrace fields, and friendly, hospitable people were enough to give us a day as happy as could be while we experienced the beautiful tour in the Northwest full of interesting novelties. We vow to come back in the season of ripening rice and buckwheat blossom.n

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CEREMONY

Traditional wedding of the White Yao people TEXT BY KHANH LE PHOTOS BY NGUYEN VAN DUONG

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aving a son coming of age, a White Yao family begins selecting a wife for him among the White Yao young girls in the same hamlet or one nearby. A sweetheart chosen, they send a word to her family. If that night is quiet, without owls crying or unusual cocks cooing, it’s a favorable omen meaning the future will be smooth, and the girl’s family would agree.

On a good day, the groom’s party brings lavish offerings, including two castrated cocks, a 30kg pig, 10 liters of rice wine and a certain amount of money etc. to the bride’s to have a

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feast together and to fix a favorable date.

On the fixed date, they conduct a wedding with many traditional ceremonies. The wedding normally lasts three days and two nights.

It begins when the bridegroom’s family sends 11 people in traditional outfits to receive the bride. The delegation includes a master of ceremony, the bridegroom, and young men versed in repartee singing.

They bring offerings, including a silver bracelet, betel and areca, salt, tea, rice buns, two large bundles of cassava vermicelli, rice wine, eight origami fishes representing the

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multitude of descendants the young couple will have, and a pipe containing ash and 24 leaves which guarantees good fortune and happiness and bars evil spirits.

As the group enters the courtyard, the bride, veiled with a big and thick brocade comes out to meet them. The party is “blocked” by the bride’s girl-friends, singing folk songs that mean to dare them to come.

The male party has to reply in songs. Then the two parties make movements pretending to throw water on one another. This means the bridegroom has to overcome obstacles in order to get to the bride.

CEREMONY

This photo set was taken at a White Yao wedding at Lang Son

After that, the male party is allowed into the house. The groom alone has to cover his head with a coat and perform the feet cleansing ritual under a shaman’s guidance, after which he enters an empty room because the bride is already hidden away as the customs require.

Meanwhile, the representatives of the two parties and the go-betweens perform rituals at the ancestral altar. Then the parties sing the suitable repartee songs in front of the guests and villagers.

At a good hour, usually 10 o’clock in the evening, the two parties perform the wedding ceremony in which the major rite is chasing away evil spirit with torches so it will not disturb the happiness of the newlyweds.

The next morning, the bridegroom prays to the ancestors at the altar and offers wine to the grandparents and parents and the attending guests. Then he goes home alone.

When the groom is gone, the bride in traditional wedding dress comes out to be greeted by the two parties, her face hidden behind a hand fan. The Yao believe that

leaving a bride’s face open may lead to bad luck in her future family life.

A man of the bridegroom’s party puts the coat the groom used the previous day on the bride’s head. Then the bridegroom’s party sings the “asking-for-her-hand” song.

After that, the shaman, bridesmaids, groomsmen and kinsfolks follow the bride to her new home. The procession includes an orchestra of drums, blowpipes and cymbals that plays emotional and funny songs along the way. The colorful wedding dress of the bride stands out among the predominantly green scenery.

According to the customs, this procession must arrive at the groom’s at about 5 to

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6 in the afternoon. On the courtyard, a yellow coat is put on the bride’s head amidst greetings from the groom’s clan. The groom comes out, and together with the bride he performs rites at the ancestral altar. The shaman reads incantations, and the ancestors grant the young couple their blessings and words of wisdom. The young couple respectfully lift a glass of wine, take a sip, and kowtow to the elders in the clan.

The newlyweds are congratulated and blessed by the clan, villagers and guests, some of whom may come from faraway. The air is full of happiness and good will. Following the rituals is a lavish feast, full of laughter, songs and dances. n

The Yao minority has about 800,000 people mostly living in the Ha Giang, Tuyen Quang and Lang Son provinces of the Northern highlands. The Yao ethnicity consists of many groups such as Red Yao, Yao Tien, Yao Cooc Mun, Tight Pants Yao, Yao O Giang, Yao Cooc Ngang, White Yao, Yao Thanh Y, Yao Ao Zai etc.

Yao culture is old and very rich, especially that of the White Yao.

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oday’s Phu Tho Province was the land chosen by Hung Kings, the first rulers of Vietnam, to be their capital.

Considered the cradle of the Viet people, this area still preserves the temples of Hung Kings and many other historical relics such as pagodas and shrines.

A midland area lying between mountains and lowland planes, the Phu Tho landscape is imposing, commanding, and poetic at the same time. The lush rolling tea hills are a perfect example of that.

Phu Tho is currently one of the provinces with the largest tea plantation areas in the country. The tea trees not only benefit thousands of households but also create enchanting beauty for the land of Phu Tho. The tea hill of Long Coc, Tan Son District is one of the most typical, most beautiful tea hills of Phu Tho. From this vantage point, one can see a countless number of green tea hills teeming all around, each looking like a coiled dragon.

Mother Nature has blessed this land with the soil and weather best suitable for growing tea, and tea has been growing here for ages. The all-green beauty of these winding hills inevitably fascinates all who have ever been to these 600ha tea plantations. Rows of tea plants soften the form of the hills. The typical dark green color of tea leaves, shining and lush, which remains the same all year round, makes it feel so calm, so peaceful, yet so endearing.

It is best to view the Long Coc tea hill early in the morning, when one can feel the harmony between nature and humans, when timid rays of the sun try to penetrate silky layers of the morning mist. That’s when ladies and young girls start to come up these hills and their hands begin the magic dance among the tea buds still heavy with dewdrops.

The scenic charm of the tea hills, the happy hard-working life, full of positive optimism and the tea culture of the people of Phu Tho makes it an interesting and attractive destination for many genres of tourism.n

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TRAVEL

The fabulous Phu Tho tea hills

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HCM City

PHOTOS BY NGUYEN VU HAU

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Phu Tho

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Bridges that distill the love of the native land ARCHITECTURE

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BY PROF. TRINH SINH ; PHOTOS BY LE BICH

very Vietnamese has a bridge to be nostalgic about. They connect roads and riversides. They also witness dates, vows and love stories: “Lovingly, longingly, and tenderly Thrice a day out to the bridge, waiting” Flimsy skewed bamboo bridges, tottery monkey bridges, shaky coconut bridges, or stronger wooden or stone bridges, they all connect villages together; they all expand the vision and feelings of Vietnamese souls. But there is one special kind of bridge, not only painstaking to build, but also one that beautifies emotions and memories, the tileroofed ones.

According to official numbers, there remain 12 tile-roofed bridges in the whole country. Nam Dinh has Co Le, Luong Kermis, Upper Kermis, and the Roofed Bridges. Hanoi has Nhat Tien Kieu, Nguyet Tien Kieu (at Thay Pagoda), Binh Vong and Khum Bridges. Ninh Binh has one at Phat Ziem. Hue has Thanh Toan Bridge. Quang Nam has the Pagoda Bridge at Hoi An. However, 200 years ago there used to be many more tile-roofed bridges. The “Dai Nam Unified Records” book described many famous ones. Those historians of the Nguyen Dynasty era must have noted the special charm of this kind of bridges, because they put them in a distinct class.

Very few, if any, know that there used to be a famous tile-roofed bridge standing where today

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Nhat Tien bridge (at Thay Pagoda), Quoc Oai District, Hanoi

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Japanese bridge (Chua Cau), Hoi An City

Binh Vong bridge Hanoi

Japanese bridge (Chua Cau), Hoi An City

modern fly-overs top one another: Cau Giay (Paper Bridge). This nearly 15m long bridge across To Lich River used to be called Yen Quyet Bridge. At the time, the water in the river was still clear. Many such tile-roofed bridges have disappeared without trace in the same fashion, such as Do Bridge at the center of today’s Ha Dong District, or Tay Dang Bridge at Ba Vi District, Van Tu Bridge at Thuong Phuc (today’s Thuong Tin district) of Hanoi etc. Outside of Hanoi, there was Soc Dang (or Te) Bridge at Doan Hung (Phu Tho Province), and Bau (also called An Nhan) bridge in Hai Zuong

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Province.

Dozens of such tile-roofed bridges listed

by Nguyen era historians have been destroyed to be replaced by new ones. The remaining ones are truly a valuable heritage of the nation. Some of them even have benches and handrails installed. They are multi-dimensional, physically and spiritually. They are not just bridges for people to pass through without noticing them. Travelers stop there for a brief rest.

Villagers stop there to enjoy a breeze and even a blissful cup of tea on the way home from a hard day working in the fields. Young

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people go on dates there. These bridges strengthen community bonds and adorn the localities and the heart of those who live near them.

These bridges sometimes even serve spiritual purposes. Hoi An’s Pagoda Bridge is a typical example, with an altar and a statue of Northern King, the Tamer of the Storms inside. The forms of the structure, especially the curved lines of the roofs intentionally remind everyone of the temples elsewhere, Buddhist and Taoist. It couldn’t be more suitable to stand above water and pray to the Water Tamer for good

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Binh Vong bridge Hanoi

Binh Vong bridge Hanoi

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Luong Kermis bridge Hai Hau District, Nam Dinh Province

weather and good crops. Nothing can be more important than the harmony of the circulation of water in a land of rice cultivation.

Some of the most beautiful tile-roofed bridges have become big tourist attractions. Take for example the Binh Vong bridge in the Thuong Tin district of Hanoi. It’s a wooden bridge with five compartments and tiled roofs. The rooftop is decorated with sacred animals, the dragons are at two ends and at the base of the pillars. Inside, it has benches and handrails along the sides for everyone to sit. The walls have windows with the Buddhist symbol of “Being and not being.” The bridge looks like a pagoda hovering over water.

Another example is Hoi An’s famous “Lai Vien Kieu” (A bridge to receive guests from afar). It was built in the 17th century (during the era of Nguyen Lords expanding southward) by Japanese merchants, who came here and set an outpost for commerce and who wanted to mark the presence of Japan. The roof tiles are Japanese with typical

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patterns. Monkeys and dogs, which are Japanese sacred animals, guard the two ends of the bridge.

Several centuries after it was built, the bridge still receive tourists from all over the world, serving well the purpose expressed by its name.

It is worth mentioning the unique bridge at Luong Kermis, Hai Hau District of Nam Dinh Province. Its roof looks like a capsized boat. It also has benches along both sides for passers to take a rest and enjoy a cool breeze. The bridge was built in the 16th century, among the oldest.

Thay Pagoda, in Quoc Oai District of Hanoi has two tile-roofed bridges. The one named Nhat Tien (Sun Angel) leads to an islet in a pond, and the other, named Nguyet Tien (Moon Angel) leads to the mountain behind. Both of them were built by Phung Khac Khoan the Top Scholar from Bung himself.

Visitors to dreamy Hue often come to see the bridge of Thanh Toan, about 7-8 km from the city.

The enameled roof tiles here are of the pipe shaped

Luong Kermis bridge Hai Hau District, Nam Dinh Province

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Thanh Toan bridge, Hue City

Thanh Toan bridge, Hue City

kind. The bridge has seven compartments, and the middle one has an altar for the bridge builder.

The bridge of Phat Ziem, Ninh Binh, built in the era of Nguyen Dynasty is also a remarkable heritage beside the local famous stone church. This 36m long bridge is perhaps the longest one, having as many as 12 compartments.

Each tile-roofed bridge is a unique architectural masterpiece. Ancient people have really blown a soul into the bridges that crossed rivers and connected human hearts: “I wish the river be no wider than a palm span So I could bridge it with my brassier for you to come…”

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ARCHITECTURE

BUI CHU CATHEDRAL

Photo: Le Bich

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Photo: Le Bich

ui Chu Cathedral of the Bui Chu Diocese is located at Xuan Ngoc Commune, Xuan Truong, Nam Dinh Province in Red River Delta. It stands on a bank of the Ninh Co River, very convenient for transportation and economic development. Bui Chu is surrounded by purely Catholic villages such as Luc Thuy, Lien Thuong, Lien Thuy, Trung Le, Ha Linh, Phu An, Trung Linh etc.

The construction of the cathedral began in 1884 under the Spanish Bishop Wenceslao Oñate Thuan. A year later, it was inaugurated.

The 78m long, 22m wide and 15m high struc-

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ture with 35m high towers was built in the Baroque style, rare among early churches of Vietnam. Since then, the cathedral was renovated in 1974 and 2000. After over 100 years, the cathedral with European architectural features and decorative patterns stands firm on ironwood pillars. The basilica is the resting place of the 7 bishops who headed the diocese (Bishop Wenceslao Oñate Thuận, Bishop Pedro Muñagorri Trung, Bishop Dominic Hồ Ngọc Cẩn, Bishop Joseph Phạm Năng Tĩnh, Bishop Dominic Lê Hữu Cung, Bishop Joseph Vũ Duy Nhất and Bishop Joseph Hoàng Văn Tiệm.)

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Photos: Le Bich

Bui Chu Cathedral stands out by its loess color. Standing on intricately carved stone pedestals, shiny black ironwood pillars support typically Baroque (meaning precious stones in Portuguese) oval cupolas, which reminds one of the old triple gate architectural style of the Orient.

Notably, the cupolas of the cathedral were built with a mixture of thatch and lime, light and cheap but durable.

The cathedral of Bui Chu belongs

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HCM City

Nam Dinh

to the complex of edifices of the Bui Chu Episcopate. Every year people from far and wide flock to the cathedral to contemplate the unique architectural features and to learn about the history of the Bui Chu Parish. Bui Chu is socially significant because it was the very first officially recognized diocese of Vietnam (in 1553).

Bui Chu Cathedral is an architectural and cultural heritage and a unique work of art painstakingly built by our forefathers. n

From Hanoi, follow the 1A National Highway to Nam Dinh Province, then turn to the road to the famous Co Le Pagoda to reach Xuan Truong District. You are almost there. Ask the locals for rest of the way.

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Painting by Pham Thanh Son

Sharing the hope that this beautiful, inspiring historic Bui Chu Cathedral will be preserved as a valuable heritage of Vietnam, as well as the need to discover and preserve many other hidden treasures of our country, Vietnam Heritage Magazine prints here in full the letter of a heritage lover, Mr. Martin Rama to the highest leaders of the Bui Chu Cathedral.

Your Excellencies, Father Vũ Đình Hiệu and Father Vũ Văn Thiên:

I am taking the liberty of writing to you despite being neither Vietnamese nor Catholic. I am from Uruguay, a small country half the way around the globe. But for many years I lived in Hanoi and I truly love Vietnam and its people. Also, like many Uruguayans I am an Atheist. But I sincerely believe that religious faith, of all sorts, has given us the strong values and the deep sensitivity that connect us all as human beings.

Today I am writing to you in the name of those strong values and deep sensitivity. And I am writing to you with a plea, as I believe that you are the only people who can avoid a sad outcome for Vietnam, for the Catholic Church, and for the entire world.

The magnificent Bùi Chu cathedral, under your jurisdiction, is scheduled to be torn down in barely two weeks. The destruction of such an extraordinary building comes after the demolition of Trà Cổ church, in March 2017, and the loss of Trung Lao church to a big fire, in August of the same year. Other churches under your jurisdiction, including the Họ Phêrô church, are also scheduled for demolition.

I very well understand the reasons to replace these old buildings. Renovating them would be very expensive. Given their old age and bad state of disrepair, there is a risk that beams or plaster could fall from the ceiling and hurt, even kill, innocent villagers attending mass. The government is not providing resources to take proper care of these decaying structures and there is no available land nearby to erect new ones. Besides, few

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April 29, 2019

of these churches is in the Heritage List of Vietnam, and therefore the Catholic Church is legally entitled to get rid of them.

All of this is absolutely true, but I am afraid that history will not be kind with this decision. Vietnam is not a rich country yet, and understandably its people put convenience before heritage.

Nobody can criticize them for that. But I have no doubt that Vietnam will prosper. New generations will travel abroad, enjoy European cities, be exposed to global ideas... And sooner or later they will look back, remember the beautiful country they grew up in, and ask who was responsible for the loss of its character.

Invoking the same strong values and the deep sensitivity the Catholic Church incarnates, they may question the decisions of their forebearers, with sadness.

Even today, in the aftermath of the tragic fire at the Notre Dame cathedral in Paris, the demolition of Bùi Chu cathedral could be met with disbelief, even anger. For many hours, the entire world watched the French people agonize over the possible loss of a beloved monument, a witness of their country’s history and a magnificent piece of architecture. The fire at Notre Dame was a tragedy, but the popular reaction to it was deeply moving. And the emotion voiced around the world was reassuring about our collective attachment to cultural heritage, regardless of religious faith.

I am afraid that the demolition of Bùi Chu cathedral will also be watched by the world with anguish. Except that this time the loss will not be a tragic accident, but rather a deliberate act of

OPNIONS

Painting by Chu Quoc Binh

Painting by Pham Thanh Son

The love and appreciation for Bui Chu Cathedral have been expressed in different forms and means, including paintings by artists of the Urban Sketchers Hanoi group in recent years.

Above are some of the art works from an exhibition held at the cathedral in early May of 2019.

destruction. The Vietnamese people still remember with anger the demolition of the One-pillar Pagoda by insensitive colonizers.

It would be sad if the Catholic Church of Vietnam was remembered that way by future generations, in relation to the magnificent churches of the country’s north.

There is an alternative, however. A very good one. And through this letter I would like to respectfully ask you to consider it.

Maybe none of the Catholic Churches of north Vietnam, on their own, qualify as world heritage. But together, they are an ensemble that is truly unique, on a global scale. These beautiful buildings combine French architecture from the Beaux Arts period with clearly Vietnamese touches, including wooden pillars and stucco decorations reminiscent of traditional pagodas. These churches could be part of a very successful tourist circuit, bringing jobs and income to the local populations, as well as the resources needed for their maintenance and renovation.

Even more important, Vietnam is successfully emerging from a long history of conflict. Invasion by a powerful neighbor, colonization by a foreign power, war on an unprecedent scale and, worst of all, tension between Vietnamese people with different beliefs… The Catholic Church can play an important role in healing these wounds. Christians are a minority in Vietnam, but they could be seen as leaders in protecting the cultural heritage of the country. In doing so, they would earn sympathy and support from people of all faiths.

Just ten days ago the government of Vietnam made a very important gesture towards the Catholic Church. During the Holy Week the authorities of Ho Cho Minh City notified the Archbishop of South Vietnam that the Thủ Thiêm church would be saved from demolition and preserved as a historical and cultural relic. There was applause in the church when the news was announced, at the end of the mass.

The Vietnamese government was enlightened in its decision, and we all feel grateful for it. My respectful question to you, dear Fathers, is whether the Catholic Church of Vietnam wants to be on the side of demolition after such an encouraging gesture from the authorities. Saving Bùi Chu cathedral would send a powerful encouragement to the of custodians of Catholic buildings in other provinces.

I am not Vietnamese, I am not a Catholic, but I want to offer my full support to you if you decide to protect the magnificent heritage under your purview. I am determined to spend time in Vietnam and to devote my energy to sustainable urban development in Hanoi and its surroundings. If you agree, will be delighted to work with you, with the priests and with the local populations, to make the old French churches of the north shine as a treasure of Vietnam.

Yours respectfully, Martin Rama (*)

Martin Rama is a Senior Advisor with the World Bank and a project director with the Vietnamese Academy of Social Sciences.

He is the author of the award-winning book Hanoi Promenade. The views expressed in this article are strictly his own.

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Hanoi

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Nghe An

HCM City

EXPLORING PU MAT CONSERVATION ZONE TEXT AND PHOTO: TRAN ZUY NGOAN

u Mat National Park belongs to Nghe An Province. At 93,113 ha, it is the only remaining primeval forest in Northern Vietnam. One of the protected zones with the highest level of biodiversity in Asia, Pu Mat is currently affirmed to have 132 animal species, including 42 large animals, the most remarkable being elephants, tigers, Vu Quang bovines, northern white cheeked gibbons, red-shanked doucs, northern pig tailed macaques, Truong Son muntjacs, and Annamite striped rabbits It has also 295 bird species, 39 bat species, 12 lizard species, 25 snake species, 23 frog species, 82 fish species, 21 turtle species and about 400 butterfly species. There are 2500 vascular plant species (among which 68 near-extinct species are listed in Vietnam’s Red List and 41 species listed in the global Red List) including precious ones such as Fujian cypress, China-fir, Chicken feather fir (Dacrycarpus imbricatus), cycads, orchids, Hopea hainanensis, and Crown Conifer (Cephalotaxus mannii).

The most special tree in Pu Mat forest is a China-fir tree growing

The millennium old China-fir tree

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at the mid-section of the 1600m-high Pu Xanh Luom Peak. The straight bole, over-1000-year -old tree is nearly 80m tall, has a sparse canopy and a thick trunk, 5.5m in diameter and 23m in perimeter.

Conquering the way to the China-fir tree is quite a thrilling experience in life. It is a four-day hike (or 7 days 6 nights both ways) through rapid streams and perilous mountain passes, being exposed to leeches etc. that is very exciting at the same time.

Along the hike, you are rewarded with the sight of the treasures of Pu Mat National Park. Rich,dense,vibrant flora delights the eyes.

Animals call to one another and creeks murmur secrets.. From time to time, an animal as rare as a bovid runs by. One encounters mysterious caves and majestic cascading waterfalls. You can enjoy the famous Mat fish of the Giang River at Pha Lai (aka Con Cuong) Dam. Go up the Giang River to feel the divinity of great primeval forests “at the beginning of time and space.” Overcome thick vegetation and precarious paths to suddenly see the Co Phat, Bung and Con villages of the Da Lai tribe. Let your heart throb when you

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The millennium old China-fir tree Photos taken in Feb 2014 at the Pu Mat nature conservation zone

Homeward flight

see the Khe Kem (a.k.a. Boc Bo, meaning a white silk ribbon) waterfall rumbling down commandingly from 500m above sea level at the kernel area of Pu Mat. From here, skirting rugged rocky passes and crossing some streams, one comes to the tops of Khe Bu, Khe Thoi and Khe Choang and sees an endless Fujian cypress forest below and the mysterious Lun Forest above. There are plenty of other things to do, such as visiting the brocade trade village of Yen Thanh, Luc Za Commune; taking a dip in the cool Nuoc Moc Creek; exploring the Oc (Tham Hoi) and Nang Man Caves; contemplating the fabled Vuc Bong Gorge and the infinitely green guava grape myrtle forest of Tuong Zuong, a masterpiece of Mother Nature. n

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CRAFTS

TYPICAL TRADE VILLAGES GOING “EXTINCT”?

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TEXT BY KHANH HOA ; PHOTOS BY NGUYEN VAN DONG

Ha Noi

HCM City

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a Thai Village of Thuong Tin District of Hanoi started its traditional paint trade in the 17th century. In the 30s of last century, the paint village of Ha Thai learned polishing techniques and the use of materials such as egg shell and snail. It was during this time that elder Dinh Van Thanh of Thai Ha Village was invited to an exposition in France to demonstrate the art of lacquer painting.

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CRAFTS

Lacquer painting is an intricate art that includes many steps and each requires the artisan to be utterly meticulous, stubbornly diligent, tirelessly patient and, of course, highly artistic in order for the final product to be a true work of art.

In the early years of the 21st century, the trade of Ha Thai went worldwide. During the years 2007-2010, the 800 household village had nearly 90% of its households, or about 1600 workers involved in the trade. During this period, the village artisans introduced many new materials, colors, forms and designs. Ha Thai produced lacquer paintings, nacre inlaid paintings, buckets, vases and bowls to export to the UK, France, Russia, US, Spain, Australia, Italy, Japan, and South Korea.

For its preservation of material and spiritual values, in 2010 Ha Thai was one of two traditional art and craft trade villages chosen

by Japan’s JICA as a strategic leverage points for sustainable development of trade villages.

However in recent years, a gloom has fallen over Ha Thai trade village because artisans and workers quit the trade. The reason was that the prices of traditional products soared, making them hard to sell.

The prices of traditional products soared because the costs, especially labor, increased drastically.

Today, only about 10 households of Ha Thai still conduct the trade. Most of their lacquer paintings are made by machines, cost little and have little aesthetical value.

Traditionally, lacquer paintings used to be polished manually. Today only a few artist families continue making this kind of painting.

Realizing the prospect of lacquer painting trade of Ha Thai going “extinct” in recent years, the local government made efforts to preserve it by bringing lacquer painted products to fairs, and opening tours to Ha Thai to let tourists learn first-hand about the trade and buy the paintings directly at the source.n

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Silver carving

by Po Ho Creek TEXT AND PHOTO: LE THANH CUONG

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he hamlet of Seo Po Ho lays peacefully by the Po Ho Creek at the foot of the massive Ky Quan San Mountain, the habitat of about 50 Red Yao households. These people have managed to preserve their unique cultural features and customs, from maturity ritual, wedding, to signature brocade patterns and precious herbal yeast to distil their maize vodka and even their exquisite traditional skills of silver carving. The village elders say that the King of Heaven himself sent a daughter down to this land to teach Yao people this silver carving trade. That’s why many call Seo Po Ho the angelic silver village. Not just a symbol of cultural preservation, the silver carving trade is being restored and promoted by the Red Yao as a unique feature in the cultural exploration tour for tourists to Muong Hum Commune of the district of Bat Xat. We visited the family of artisan Tan Phu Sinh, who has the region’s most dexterous hands, and who is passionate about preserving the ancestral trade, together with a dozen of other families. Meticulously carving a detail on a bracelet and being in a jovial mood, Mr. Tan Phu Sinh recalls, “For more than 20 years, I have been giving it all to silver carving. To me, the things I make are not merely jewelry or decoration. They are the means for me to express myself. I write on them my stories, my thoughts, my life experience, my soul. The work is entirely manual, from baking, laminating to carving and relieving. It’s a work for the most passionate and patient ones.”

Beside Mr. Tan Phu Sinh’s, there are almost 20 other Red Yao households at Seo Po Ho that pursue this traditional trade and have stable income by doing it.

Expenses deducted, each family makes regularly about 5 million dongs a month just by carving silver the traditional way. Notably, staring from 2018, they have established Seo Po Ho corporative to conduct the silver carving trade. All corporative members have a stable income. The Red Yao outfits, beside their own unique brocades and embroidery, are adorned with silver buttons, chains, necklaces, bracelets and little bells etc. Each woman has at least a couple of such traditional outfits. A set of traditional dress normally costs about 10 million dongs. More sophisticated ones may cost 25-30 million dongs. Some exquisite ones may cost up to hundreds of millions.

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Following the tunes (“Spring comes to Muong Hum hamlet high up the mountains with heart-rocking distant singing…” ) of talented composer Nguyen Tai Tue, we come to Seo Po Ho hamlet to visit Red Yao artisans diligently blowing life into silver, creating wonders of sophisticated craftsmanship, worthily contributing to the cultural traditions of their tribe.

There was a period of time when almost no Red Yao person at Seo Po Ho, certainly no youth, wanted to do silver carving. Then, with the introduction of the policy of combining trade village tourism with preservation of ethnic minority cultures, the silver carving craft of the Red Yao people in Bat Xat and particularly in Seo Po Ho has been restored. Today, not only silver carving brings the villagers a good income, but also culture tourism which brings visitors to this remote place to contemplate the natural scenery and explore local lifestyle centered around the silver carving trade.

Taking us out for a tour around an area where some artisans demonstrated carving techniques for tourists, Mr. Lu Sao Zin, chairman of Muong Hum People’s Committee said, “The local government is very instrumental in cultural preservation by turning our heritage into assets, increasing income and improving quality of life for the ethnic minorities by using the advantage of their own traditions. For the commune of Muong Hum, this advantage includes the silver carving

craft of Seo Po Ho, the kermes of Muong Hum, cultural features of the Giay minority, terrace fields of ripening rice, kites flying amidst mountains etc. All these elements will attract tourists to this land.

The Red Yao value silver jewelry because to them silver represents wealth and good fortune. Possessing and wearing a lot of silver will make the god of silver bless you, your family, your clan and the whole community and grant you all a peaceful, prosperous and happy life. Therefore, in the most important event of a young person, the wedding, the parents always give their child as many silver coins as the family’s wealth allows.

In her conversation with us, Ms. Ly Ta May said, “The day I got married, my mother gave me a few silver coins as a dowry. Later I used this silver to make necklaces, bracelets, earrings and other decoration items for my hats and dresses. Silver uniquely accentuates the glamor of Red Yao women’s dresses and elevates their beauty. It’s hard to overstate the role of silver in the cultural life of the Red Yao people. n J U N E - J U LY 2 0 1 9

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Tourism remains far away from Hue village’s reach TEXT AND PHOTO: HOA HA

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illagers in the 550-year-old Phuoc Tich Village on the outskirts of former imperial Hue City have dreamed of bumper tourism in the village for 10 years, but their dreams have yet to come to fruition.

Today, authorities’ plans to restore several old houses that stand prominently in the community remind the villagers of their tourism dreams, but locals regard them with both doubt and hope.

Authorities in central Vietnam’s Thua Thien Hue Province, where the village sits, eyed the development of the old village over a decade ago and they started to bring projects aimed at making the village attractive to visitors.

In 2009, experts from the Vietnam Institute of Culture and Arts in Hue came with a project funded by the country of Luxembourg to restore a kiln use

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traditionally to burn terracotta.

Phuoc Tich was the only supplier in the capital during the monarchic time to provide terracotta for the Nguyen Dynasty’s royal family as well as daily needs by capital city dwellers.

The craft of terracotta making was forgotten when the dynastycame to an end.

With the project, tourism policy makers in the locality believed that the restored kiln would bring back the craft, offering some more activities at the village rather than just walking around to look at the old houses.

In the meantime, there was a surge of visitors, mainly domestic tourists, arriving in the village to satisfy their curiousity about a village that has retained an almost original structure for centuries.

Local authorities then had the soil paths running around the village paved with bricks. They built a stone dyke in front of the

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village to replace the earthen embankment marking both the border of the village and the edge of a local river.

With recognition as an ancient village, local authorities formed a managing unit that worked as a promotion centre, believing that better travel management at the village would be needed.

However, no more tourists have been seen in the village since the early surge.

Travel agents’ studies showed that visitors, especially foreigners, felt it was boring visiting the village.

The craft of terracotta failed to lure tourists as its products having nothing different compared to the others popular on local market. The kiln and the craft workshop so far have been left unused.

Green ambiance was the only item in the village that visitors fell in love with.

Earlier in May this year, local authorities

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in Thua Thien Hue Province invested 5.6 billion dong for the repair work at nine of the old houses in the village. Each house will receive about 600 million dong to 820 million dong.

This is the continuance of a funding project that commenced last year, which completed the repair work at five houses in the village at cost of 3.6 billion dong. The work included rebuilding of ruined walls, fixing and replacing weak wooden beams and pillars, repairing roofs, doors and windows, installing new internal lighting systems and preventing the development of wood worms in the structure.

Authorities expect the facelift of both indoor and outdoor of the house to lure tourists. Owners of the houses getting funds from the project signed commitments with the project, ensuring they would allow tourism service in their homes.

Furthermore, athorities wanted to run nine tourism services in the village. They include the service of visiting the houses, a village biking tour, a terracotta tour, and homestay service.

The houses in the village were built in nha ruong structure, a typical housing form of the old Hue. Almost all of them are more than a century old.

‘Nha ruong’ structure makes a wooden house with many beams and pillars, which connect each other by a special conjoining mechanism. The conjoint allows the whole

structure to stand firm against strong wind without using any nails. Roofs of the ‘nha ruong’ house are typical as well. The roofing process requires the laying of lots of wooden rays on the beams to create the holders for tiles, which is in a shape that once arranged, will stay firm and look like a fish scale.

The whole edifice can stand on a flat surface without anchoring or concrete foundations. It often lays in a system of the Oriental concept of feng shui, including components of regular yards, an ornamental man-made mountain or a single rectangular wall built to shield the dwelling from the wind, a fish or lotus pond, maybe a man-made stream, areas for perennial trees and areas for flowering plants and bonsai.

The villagers, certainly, are delighted at the project as it allows them fixing their homes for housing needs as to worship their late ancestors, a key feature in Vietnamese life.

For almost a decade, the villagers have been banned from repairing or doing works that could change the original structure of the houses, though many of them were ruined and demand for living space has been increasing among the families.

However, owners of the houses which got repaired last year have expressed their concerns over the quality of the repair work as well as the possible changes in authenticity of each house.

Le Thi Hoang, Hanoi 88, owner of the Thua Thien house named after Hue her husband, Ho Thanh Yen, said she was not fully HCM City pleased with the repairs, as the craftsmen were not competent carpenters. Several complicated carving patterns on the beams disappeared after the work.

Other house owners reported the same. Nguyen Quang An, son of Truong Thi Thu, 90, owner of a typical house in the village, said the cost for actual repairing work was not the same as it was shown in the project files.

“You see the files regulated the maximum cost for the work at my mother’s house in accordance with the needed work.

But I had observed the work every single day in the repairing duration and I know clearly that some were corrupted,” he said.

Mr An pointed at the low quality timbers and the poorly-installed parts of the house to prove his statement.

Mr An also worried that the antique items in his mother houses would be stolen as the antique thieves joined in the big groups of visitors.

It seems that these hopes could be harder in practice than in the project profile prepared by local policy makers. n

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Cultural touches grieve locals of the royal city

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TEXT BY SONG PHUOC PHOTO BY LE HUY HOANG HAI

ulture has served as the most sensitive part to Hue natives and they are always ready to fight for the cultural values that have existed in a long period of time in this former imperial capital city.

Hue natives show strong respect to local culture. In history, locals proved this through the fight against the invasion of Catholics accompanied by the French colonialists in 19th century.

Today people in this royal city remain cautious and conservative against the integration, particularly in culture. Most of the people here consider the cultural exchange as in invasion in culture rather than a process to get locals integrated into the popular norms globally.

Recently, dedicated cultural researchers from Japan and several countries that are motivated in cultural conservation have come in the city and appraised it as the best one in the country in preserving the old positive values to Vietnamese people.

Those comments have made locals more responsible for their culture and costume is a prominent example.

In light of the Vietnamese national costume ao dai, Hue natives’ pride stays at two key points. The first is that the city was the birthplace of this charming dressing style.

The costume was created in Hue by a ruler among Nguyen Lords (1558-1777), the an-

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cestors of later kings under the Nguyen Dynasty (1802-1945). Minh Mang, the second king of the dynasty, made the costume popular throughout the country and it became the national costume today.

Locals are also proud of the popularity of ao dai in daily life in the city as well as the well preservation of the costume traditions.

Middle-aged and elder local women remain the choice of ao dai as the only formal costume for them.

Once the pride is big, locals always have an open wide eye on any touch to the costume. Any changes to the traditional designs of ao dai will easily get boos.

Traditionally, local women combine ao dai with non la, which is a type of hat made by palm leaves in conical shape.

Earlier in April, Minh Hanh, a popular fashion designer in the country had her models worn ao dai and non la participated in a street parade during an event honouring Vietnamese craftsmanship held in this royal city.

Minh Hanh, who is a native to Hue but she lives in HCMC, forgot about the local pride. She thought she should have her impression maker by adding the characters of HUE on the conical hats.

At the first sight, the characters created no good impression in light of aesthetics.

The emerging part on the top of the hats brought an eyesore to audience. Minh Hanh

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defended that the combination of the costume and the conical hat is a typical style of Hue and her adding of the characters was to remind audiences of that.

Right after the parade, however, there was a public surge demanded the designer as well as event organiser to explain for the ‘cruelty’ to the beauty of ao dai and non la.

Locals said they did not see the characters but “trunks on the hat”.

Many gave boos to the show and they expressed their disappointment over Minh Hanh, a Hue native.

In the same period of time, local researchers and residents wanted ‘decent dressing’ for a statue. Despite the Party Committee of Thua Thien Hue Province, where Hue is a part, decided to have the naked statue in the city, it is hard for the statue to have a place in locals’ heart.

Earlier last year, Cho Kwang-han, mayor of Namyangju City in South Korea visited Hue and expressed the will to offer Hue the 6 metre naked statue. He wanted a present to celebrate the newly-affirmed friendship between the two cities.

The statue,‘Greeting man,’ features a naked, blue man bowing. It was created by South Korean sculptor Yoo Young-ho to represent peace, reconciliation, and communication. The artist hopes to put 1,000 such statues up across the world in places where the scars of war remain. Hue was not

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On Trang Tien bridge, Hue City Photo: Vu Minh Duc

the first to have that offer. Once Hue agrees to erect the statue here, the city would be the fourth place in the world to have it.

By now, the statue has yet to arrive in Vietnam. Once approval for the reception is made on paper, the South Korean city will ship it to the royal city.

Under the public opposition, city authorities then had experienced an headache time as they did not want to refuse the Korean side. They were struggling in finding a proper venue to erect the statue.

The Korean side recommended Hue to reserve a place for the naked Greeting man in front of the royal citadel, a site in Dong Ba Market, or a plot in the park staying opposite to the city’s Cultural Centre. Those are the area with crowds in the city.

The city in April gathered a meeting with experts and cultural researchers,

The park where the giant naked statue will be erected following the decision by local Party Committee

Fashion parade in Hue, April 2019

consulting whether the statute should be accepted and once having it, a place best suit the giant statue in the city should be found.

Public agencies had agreed the city should accept the statue, but opinion was split researchers and locals, due to the city’s reputation for preserving Vietnamese culture, including decent clothing style.

Artists and art lecturers in the local University of Arts said the statue was not prominent artistically and had no relation to local culture and should not be displayed in the city.

Researchers wanted the statue to be smaller and it should be placed in a newlydeveloped urban area to ensure it would not make any interferes to local cultural legacy.

On the cyber dialogues, local net citizens expressed no good impression to the statue. Some wanted the naked statue to be erected in Thuan An Beach, which is 20km far from the city centre and crowded with bikini swimmers. Many demanded the repairing work on the statue to give it decent clothing.

Others questioned the meaning of the statue, saying why it was naked when it conveyed the message of apology. Locals consider being naked rudeness. Many said once the statue was meaningful to war scars, it should be presented in Hue’s neighbouring QuangTri Province, a local-

ity hit the hardest by war bombs or somewhere in Quang Ngai, Binh Dinh and Phu Yen, where in the wartime, local women were victims to sexual harassment by South Korean soldiers.

City authorities later announced that they preferred placing it on the southern bank of the famed Huong (Perfume) River, adjacent to an end of the controversial footbridge built on the water surface and running along the bank, using (South) Korea International Cooperation Agency funds.

City authorities at the same time sent a report to the province’s Party’s Committee and the committee in late May decided the statue would have a plot in the park buffering the river and local University of Pedagogy.

The park is home to statues created by international sculptors years ago during a camp held in the city. The park’s view is blocked by the famed Truong Tien Bridge and it receives less attention among locals. Many of the statues there have been ruined intentionally but authorities have failed to catch in red any of the breakers.

According to researcher Tran Dinh Hang, locals are not too conservative to changes, especially those changes that occur in a respectable manner to local cultural legacy. n

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ago,Cuong immediately saw it as a future niche industry for Vienam and readily jumped on the band wagon, being the first and as yet only local person to do so.

From a consumer point of view, I believe that truly great and original beer with the maximum of health benefits can only be produced locally and on a relatively small scale. The American word for this kind of beer-'craft beer'- tells half the story while the British English 'real ale' tells the other half.

It is well into the evening and all three of us are hungry, so food is prioritised. "It's confusion food" the waiter says, at which I can not help but let out a chuckle. Yet to be fair, this waiter spoke good English with a clear accent and had full knowledge of the beers and food and was very helpful in explaining them. Intrigued by the name, I ordered the 'Loco Moco', which is Hawaiian fusion food and which translated would not appeal to a Spanish speaker, and I am one, as it means Crazy Mucus! It came as a creamy rice dish topped with a hamburger minced beef patty topped by a fried eggsimple but great! Fried chicken wings and a cheese and tomato salad also in timely fashion appeared at the table. In addition, there are quite a lot of other East-West dishes to choose from.

Cuong wants to bring in a new beer drinking culture to the Vietnamese toper-one in which beer is savoured slowly appreciated for its taste and not simply to get drunk on. Here, his wife gives a nod of agreement. There is no doubt however that the 'mot hai ba dzo!'(1 2 3 Go) chanting and the infamous tram phan tram(knock it all back in one go)is not going to disappear any time soon.

The company has already on offer an impressive list of real ales to select fromaround forty beers about fifty draught and bottled. He flavours his brews with local tropical fruits, chocolate, coffee and other homegrown ingredients. I chose to sample two of the more exotic ones. First was the Pho beer. What you say. But the essence of Pho, Vietnam's

most popular noodle soup is the broth and the herbs it uses. Whilst this tastes definitely like beer, the notes of a mixture of yellow onions, ginger, star anise, cilantro, thai basil, cloves bone marrrow and fish sauce all add to the flavour and the enjoyment. Then I tried the ginger beer. Not the ginger beer of my childhood which is a fizzy soft drink of zero alcoholic content, but real beer with the strong taste of real ginger.

The reader might be interested in a tour of C.Brewmaster's Hanoi factory with tasting and lunch provided. If so, please visit the website for booking information. Also on the wesite you can view and order the full range of bottled beeers.

The styles include, stout, pale ale, amber ale, wheat beer and pilsner. Apart from the two already mentioned, there are among others mulberrry, mint, lemongrass, longan honey and sticky rice flavourings. Outside the Hanoi and HCMC tap rooms which act as showrooms, C.Brewmaster is available in over 60 outlets. Finally, Cuong has ambitions to export so do watch his space.

Rising incomes in Vietnam means an increase in the number of people being able to afford these premium beers and a steady flow of tourists intrigued by exotic flavours unavailable back home, and all of this augurs well for the future of C Brewery. It has come a long way in a few short years, but bear in mind it could never have done so without Cuong's solid decades-long background in the general business. I hope I have whetted your thirst to visit one of the established tap rooms or try out some of the drinks of the range in one of its many upmarket restaurant outlets. Remember the old Roman saying-Carpe Cervisiam (enjoy the beer) and remember also you read it all first here! n

C.Brewmaster 57/4 Bui Vien Street District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Vietnam

EVENTS

HBSO PERFORMANCES

HBSO's performances in June will feature a series of special concerts with outstanding guest artists

Saigon Opera House 07 Lam Son Square, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 028 3829 9976

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EVENTS

Honna Tetsuji

Wojciech Czepiel

Vu Viet Chuong

Martha Walvoord

Pham Vu Thien Bao

Nguyen Cong Thang

MUSIC OF THE GERMAN MASTERS

The first one is “Music of the German Masters” on June 2, 2019 at Saigon Opera House with participation of outstanding artists from the United States: Martha Walvoord (violin), Vu Viet Chuong (violin), conductor Wojciech Czepiel and pianist Dao Trong Tuyen from Vietnam National Academy of Music. The performance

Dao Trong Tuyen

will focus on the outstanding works of the three great German composers of Romantic Music: F. Mendelssohn, M. Bruch, and J. Brahms. They are excellent examples of 19th-century European music and all three are considered composers with the best works written for strings.

Admissions: 300.000 – 650.000 VND

A NIGHT OF MOZART

“A Night of Mozart” performed on June 8, 2019 at Saigon Opera House will be staged and conducted by Japanese maestro Honna Tetsuji. He is the principal conductor and Artistic Director of the Vietnam Symphony Orchestra.

Music by the genius W.A. Mozart is still loved today. As a result, his music is among the most frequently performed all over the world.

“A Night of Mozart” will introduce the Sinfonia Concertante for Violin, Viola and Orchestra with a performance by violist Pham Vu Thien Bao, who was an

official member of the French National Symphony Orchestra and violinist Nguyen Cong Thang, who is currently the Deputy Head of the Strings Department of the Vietnam National Academy of Music.

Besides, the concert also performs two other famous works by Mozart: Overture from opera "Die Entführung aus dem Serail" and Symphony No. 35 in D Major, K.385.

This will be the night to enjoy the works of the most famous prodigy in music history, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

Admissions: 300.000 – 650.000 VND

DIARY OF A CRICKET The last performance in June will be the musical “Diary of A Cricket” by the composer Vu Viet Anh. This is the return of the most outstanding performance of HBSO in 2018.

The musical is written based on the content of the literary work of the same name - an famous work by the author To Hoai. Although it has just been released in concert version, with no stage acting, it has created a great impression by the appeal of its music. This project has been cherished for many

years by talented musician Vu Viet Anh, demonstrating the desire to be creative in the most popular stage art in the world, musical broadway genre.

This new type combines various genres of popular music and academic music, and creates the art of the 20th century.

The return of "Diary of A Cricket" will also be in concert version, with the participation by the most famous singers and artists in Ho Chi Minh City.

Admissions: 450.000 - 900.000 VND

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WHAT THE PAPERS SAY

Vietnam increases coworking space Tuoi Tre News May 17

A recent study on the state of the coworking industry in 2019 has revealed that Vietnam is the 31st fastest-growing country worldwide in terms of coworking space numbers per capita.

Accordingly, Vietnam is ranked 31st among the top 50 major countries and territories in terms of coworking growth per capita. Luxembourg, Singapore and Ireland stand as the top three, with the first chalking up 8.5 new spaces annually for every 1,000,000 inhabitants, almost double the other two's figures.

Among other findings, Ho Chi Minh City placed 41st out of the 50 fastest-growing cities in the world in terms of coworking space growth.

Two endangered king cobras sent to wildlife reserve VNExpress English May 31

A pair of endangered king cobras that were found by workers clearing land for a solar farm will live in a conservation area in the Culture and Nature Reserve in Dong Nai Province near Ho Chi Minh City.

The snakes were discovered two months ago at the foot of Cam (Forbidden) Mountain in An Giang Province in the Mekong Delta, 300 kilometers (190 miles) to the west of Ho Chi Minh City.

The snakes measure four meters (13 feet) long and weigh 18 kilograms (40 pounds) each.

Vietnam lawmakers say no to overnight alcohol ban VNExpress English June 4

The parliament has rejected a curfew on

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VIETNAM HERITAGE

VIETNAM HERITAGE

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the sale of alcoholic drinks proposed by the Ministry of Health.

The health ministry proposed in a bill aiming to reduce alcohol consumption that Vietnam ban the sale of all alcohol drinks from 10 p.m. to 8 a.m. every day.

But only 224 or 46.3 percent of deputies at the National Assembly, the nation's main legislative body, agreed with the proposal on Monday. The approval of more than half the deputies is needed for a bill or provision to be passed.

The legislators also voted down another provision in the bill. Only 44 percent of them said yes to banning those found with alcohol content in their blood or breath from driving on the streets.

Alcohol, especially beer, is widely consumed in Vietnam. Data collected by the Ministry of Health shows Vietnamese citizens consumed 305 million liters of liquor and 4.1 billion liters of beer in 2017.

Three bears freed from captivity in central Vietnam VNExpress English June 2

Three bears in Nghe An Province have been released from illegal captivity and moved to a rescue center.

The Education for Nature - Vietnam (ENV), Vietnam’s first non-governmental organization focused on the conservation of nature and the protection of the environment, saved three bears from their cages in a house in Nghe An’s Quynh Luu District on Thursday.

The bears have been sent to the Ninh Binh Bear Rescue Center run by Four Paws, an international animal welfare organization, near Hanoi. ENV discovered the case in March thanks to stories from people in the neighborhood. The organization then contacted local authorities, who found that the three bears were being raised in cages without legal registration.

Officials then decided to give some time for the family to give up the animals on their own.

Viet Nam will face power shortage in future Vietnam News May 30

Viet Nam could face a power shortage in the near future due to surging demand and development difficulties.

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The warning was made at a seminar held in HCM City on Tuesday to ensure energy security.

According to experts, the hydroelectricity source has been exploited to its full potential; domestic gas reserves are gradually depleting and could not guarantee gas for power.

In terms of renewable energy, there is little investment in wind power projects, while solar power is on the rise but depends on weather.

There are 332 solar power projects proposed with a total capacity of about 26,200 MW by 2030.

Bicycle sharing system launched in Hoi An Vietnam News June 03

Hoi An launched a pilot bicycle sharing system yesterday in co-operation with the German Development Co-operation Agency (GIZ) and Health Bridge Canada.

The system will change from petrol power to pedal power in the UNESCO-recognised World Heritage Site, which is a popular tourism hub in central Viet Nam. The development of non-motorised transport is seen as an environmentally friendly transport solution to preserve the heritage and tourist sites of the city.

The city has approved a bicycle transportation development plan with technical support from international experts.

Child abuse control to be focus of NA supervision in 2020 Vietnam News June 4

National Assembly deputies on Monday voted to focus on laws and policies to prevent and fight child abuse.

Deputies at the 14th National Assembly said children were special and needed the protection of their families and society.

Recent incidents of child abuse have triggered warnings about the need for a protection mechanism. Statistics from the National Assembly said there were nearly 3,500 cases of violence and abuse of children, of which more than 60 per cent involved sexual abuse, in 201718 and the first quarter of 2019 nationwide.

The deputies said the numbers were just the tip of the iceberg, adding that the actual figure was higher because children and their families often did not report cases for fear it would have a negative effect on them.

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CULTURAL CUL LTTURAL HERITAGE HERITTA AGE ASSOCIATION ASSOCIATION OF VIETNAM

ISSN 1859-4123

ISSN 1859-4123

CULTURAL CUL LTTURAL HERITAGE HERITTA AGE ASSOCIA ASSOCIATION TION OF VIETNAM

When making love love w was as exalted exalted p.8

Muddy tradition

wrestles its way back to Van Village

VIETNAM HERITAGE MAGAZINE 4th Floor, 1/1 Hoang Viet Street, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Ho Chi Minh City, Viet Nam Tel: (84-28) 38118846 ; Fax: (84-28) 38118775 Email: vnheritagemagazine@gmail.com www.vietnamheritage.com.vn Vietnam Heritage

Vietnam Heritage

DIRECTIONS

HALONG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 033)

Chi Minh declared Vietnam’s independence in September 1945, is a complex of historic sites.

Syrena Cruises

Hung Thang new urban area, Bai Chay, Halong. Tel: (033) 3847-043 Hanoi Sales Office: Syrena Tower, 3th Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-7214 Email: se@syrenacruises.com www.syrenacruises.com

Lapaz Hotel & Resort

Tuan Chau Island, Halong Tel: (033) 3842-999 www.holidayvillahalongbay.com

Vinpearl Halong

Cot Co Tower

28 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi Cot Co Tower, the so-called Flag Tower, is now part of the Vietnam Military History Museum complex. The Tower was built in 1950, under the Nguyen Dynasty, with the help of French engineers. The tower has 36 flower-shaped windows. At the top of the tower flies the flag of Vietnam.

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 3733-2131 www.vnfineartsmuseum.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Entry fee VND20,000 ($0.95)

Hanoi Opera House

Vietnam Military History

1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi Designed by a French architect along the lines of the Paris Opera House, it is embellished with wonderful Gothic statuary. For many decades, Hanoi Opera House has been a centre for theatre, traditional music and dance, symphonies, traditional and classical music. This, the largest theatre in Vietnam, was completed in 1911.

Hoa Lo Prison

‘La Maison Centrale’, the prison on Hoa Lo Street in Hanoi, was built by the French in 1896 and became the place where generations of Vietnamese freedom fighters were held.

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St Joseph’s Cathedral

Reu Island, Bai Chay, Ha Long, Viet Nam. Tel: (033) 3556-868 www.vinpearl.com

HAI PHONG CITY Avani Hai Phong Harbour View 12 Tran Phu St, Ngo Quyen Dist., Hai Phong.

Tel: (031) 3827-827 www.avanihotels.com

Hanoi Museum

2 Pham Hung (next to Vietnam National Convention Centre), Me Tri Commune, Tu Liem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 6287-06 04 Opening hour: 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Free entrance

TRAVEL

Emeraude Classic Cruises

46 Le Thai To St, Hanoi Tel: (024) 3935-1888 www.emeraude-cruises.com

19 Ngoc Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 3846-3752 www.baotanghochiminh.vn Open: 8 a.m. to noon (Monday and Friday), 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (other days) Entry fee: VND25,000

3rd Floor, 66A Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 3828-2150 www.exotissimo.com

Imperial Citadel of Thang Long

Topas Travel

12 Nguyen Tri Phuong St/ 9 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 37345427 www.hoangthanhthanhlong.vn Open: 8.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. (Closed on Mondays) Entry fee: VND30,000

52 To Ngoc Van St, Hanoi Tel: (024) 3715-1005 www.topastravel.vn SIGHTSEEINGS

Ba Dinh Square

36A Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi.

Ba Dinh Square, where President Ho HERITAGE

Vietnam Fine Arts Museum

Museum 28A Dien Bien Phu St, Hanoi www.btlsqsvn.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 4.30 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)

Vietnam Museum of Ethnology

Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 3756-2193, www.vme.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND40,000 ($2)

Women’s Museum

36 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hanoi Tel: (024) 3825-9936 www.womenmuseum.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) TRAVEL

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Vietnam National Museum

of History 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. 25 Tong Dan St, Hanoi.

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Hue Riverside Boutique

Resort & Spa 588 Bui Thi Xuan St, Thuy Bieu Dist., Hue. Tel: (0234) 3978-484 www.hueriversideresort.com

Imperial Hotel

8 Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3882-222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn

Indochine Palace Hotel

105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3936-666 www.indochinepalace.com The hotel is surrounded by lush green gardens that make it an outstanding landmark in Hue and give the city the feel of a resort. This luxurious, international standard hotel is created to appeal to Vietnamese and international visitors to Hue.

La Residence Hotel & Spa

5 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3837-475 Email: resa@la-residence-hue.com www.la-residence-hue.com Step back in time to Art Deco's golden age with a stay at La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa, MGallery by Sofitel. Nestled along the fabled Perfume River overlooking the former Imperial Citadel, La Residence is a one-of-a-kind masterpiece with luxurious cultural and culinary experiences. This former governor's residence with 122 guestrooms and suites offers visitors a warm hospitality and a chance to relive the pleasures of a bygone era.

Lang Co Beach Resort

Oxalis Adventure Tours

Phong Nha Commune, Son Trach Village, Bo Trach Dist., Quang Binh Province. Tel: (0232)3677-678 www.oxalis.com.vn

HUE

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0234) HOTELS, RESORTS

Century Riverside Hotel Hue

Ho Chi Minh Museum

Exotissmo

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40 Nha Chung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Fresh missionaries built this cathedral in the late 19th century. The small but beautiful panes of stained glass were created in Paris in 1906. Also of note is the ornate altar, with its high gilded sidewalls.

MUSEUMS

HANOI

Tel: (024) 3824-1384 www.baotanglichsu.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.

Closed every first Monday of months. Entry fee VND40,000 ($1.82) for adults and VND10,000 ($0.48) for children

463 Lac Long Quan St., Lang Co Town, Phu Loc Dist, Thua Thien Hue Province Tel: (0234) 3873-555 www.langcobeachresort.com.vn

Hotel Saigon Morin

30 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234)3823-526 www.morinhotel.com.vn

DANANG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0236) 49 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3823-390 Email: res@centuryriversidehue.com www.centuryriversidehue.com Century Riverside Hotel Hue, with its 135 rooms, is located in a vast area of 20,000 square meters. It is surrounded by a garden full of fruit trees, various kinds of flowers and a green pasture.

Hue Century Riverside Hotel lies by the side of Truong Tien Bridge and the bank of the romantic Huong River.

Vinpearl Luxury Danang Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang. Tel: (0236) 3968-888 www.vinpearl.com

Danang Museum of Cham

Sculpture 2, 2 Thang 9 St, Danang Tel: (0236) 3572-935 www.chammuseum.danang.vn Open 7.15 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)

HOI AN

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0235) HOTELS, RESORTS

Anantara Hoi An Resort

DIRECTIONS MUSEUM

Quang Trung Museum

Block 1, Phu Phong town, Tay Son Dist., Binh Dinh Province. Tel: (056) 3580-320 Open 7 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Entry fee VND10,500 ($0.50).

Free for children under six

NHA TRANG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0258) 1 Pham Hong Thai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province. Tel: (0235) 3914-555 Email: sales_ha@anantara.com www.hoi-an.anantara.com

Aurora Riverside Hotel & Villas

242 Cua Dai St, Hoi An City, Quang Nam Province. Tel: (0235) 3924-111 www.aurorahoian.com

HOTELS, RESORTS

MUSEUM

Alexandre Yersin Museum

Pasteur Institute, 10 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (0258) 3822-406

PHAN THIET

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0252) HOTELS, RESORTS

10B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Tel: (0235) 3862-367 www.hoianheritage.net Open daily 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Resort & Spa 304, 2/4 St, Vinh Phuoc, Nha Trang Tel: (0258) 3568-888 Email: sales@champaislandresort.vn www.champaisandresort.vn With architecture reflecting nearby Po Nagar temple, Champa Island Nha Trang offers exquisite cuisine and many entertainment services that promise a memorable stay in Nha Trang

Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa

12A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (84252) 3741-888 www.anantara.com/en/muine

Bai Dai, Ghenh Rang, Quy Nhon City, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (0256) 384 0077 Email: quynhon.villas@anantara.com www.anantara.com/en/quy-nhon

Km 11 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (0252) 3847-507 reservation@seahorseresortvn.com www.seahorseresortvn.com MUSEUM

Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa

Song Mao intersection, Phan Hiep Commune, Bac Binh Dist., Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (0252) 3641-456.

Open: 7.30 a.m. to 11 a.m. / 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday. Free entrance

Northern Peninsula Cam Ranh, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (0258) 3989-898 Email: info@rivieraresortspa.com www.rivieraresortspa.com KN Golf Links

38 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province.

Tel: (0252) 3847-007 www.bamboovillageresortvn.com

DALAT

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0263) HOTELS

Ana MandaraVillas Dalat Resort & Spa

Blue Bay Muine Resort & Spa Suoi Nuoc, Muine, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province.

Tel: (0252) 3836-888 Email: info@bluebaymuineresort.com www.bluebaymuineresort.com

QUY NHON

Anantara Quy Nhon Villas

Quarter 14, Mui Ne Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (0252) 2220-222 Email: info@muinebayresort.com www.muinebayresort.com

Cham Culture Exhibition Centre

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0256) AVANI Quy Nhon Resort & Spa Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (0256) 3840-132 www.avanihotels.com/quynhon

Muine Bay Resort

Champa Island Nha Trang

Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0235) 3927-927 Email: info@pgr.com.vn www.palmgardenresort.com.vn

Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation

6 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (0252) 2481-888 www.catymuineresort.com info@catymuineresort.com

Seahorse Resort & Spa

Anantara Mui Ne

Palm Garden Beach Resort and Spa

MUSEUM

Caty Resort

Hoang Ngoc (Oriental Pearl) Beach Resort & Spa Long Beach, Cam Ranh Peninsula, Khanh Hoa Province, Viet Nam Hotline : +84 258 6566 988 +84 961 99 6688 Email: golf.booking@kngolflinks.com Website: http://www.kngolflinks.com Fanpage: https://www.facebook.com/ KNGolfLinks/

Le Lai St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (0263) 3555-888. reservationdalat@anamandara-resort.com www.anamandara-resort.com From VND3,150,000 ($150)

Monet Garden Villa

MườngThanh Grand NhaTrang Hotel

6 Duong Hien Quyen St, Vinh Hoa Ward, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (0258) 3552-468 www.nhatrang.muongthanh.vn

152 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (0252) 3847-858 Email: info@hoangngoc-resort.com www.hoangngoc-resort.com

Vinpearl Resort Nha Trang

Muine Mud Bath & Spa

Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang City, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (0258) 3598-188 Email: info@vinpearlresort-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com

133A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (0252) 3743-481 Email: sales1@bunkhoangmuine.com www.bunkhoangmuine.com

3 Nguyen Du St., Dalat City, Lam Dong Province. Tel: (0263) 3810-826 www.monetgarden.com.vn

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DIRECTIONS

HO CHI MINH CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 028) TRAVEL

Asiana Travel Mate

17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3824-1555 Email: h2077@sofitel.com www.sofitel.com

a favourite tourist destination, offering a wide range of Vietnamese handicraft, fresh fruits and local specialities.

Saigon Prince Hotel

It was set up at the end of the 18th century when the Minh Dynasty in China was overthrown. Chinatown has many shops and private workshops. The most interesting places are Binh Tay market, Soai Kinh Lam fabric whole-sales market, the street of herbal medicine located on Hai Thuong Lan Ong and Thien Hau Temple on Nguyen Trai Street.

113C Bui Vien St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (028) 3838-6678 www.atravelmate.com

Buffalo Tours 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (028) 3827-9168 Email: travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn

Exotissimo 261/26 Phan Xich Long St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (028) 3995-9898 www.exotravel.com

Saigon Tourist 45 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (028) 3827-9279 www.saigon-tourist.net

63 Nguyen Hue St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (84) 28 3822 2999 www.saigonprincehotel.com Windsor Plaza Hotel 18 An Duong Vuong, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (028) 3833-6688 www.windsorplazahotel.com

Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (028) 3844-1005 Email: dosm@trailsofindochina.com www.trailsofindochina.com HOTELS

Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon

GALLERIES

Apricot Gallery 50 Mac Thi Buoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3822-7962

Craig Thomas Gallery 27i Tran Nhat Duat St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Mobile: 0903 888 431 Email: cthomasgallery@gmail.com www.cthomasgallery.com Open: 1 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Closed Mondays and Sundays

Galerie Quynh 253 Nguyen Van Troi St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3844-9222 Email: Info@eastingrandSaigon.com www.eastingrandsaigon.com

Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (028) 3824-8284 www.galeriequynh.com Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Park Hyatt Saigon

Sàn Art

2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (028) 3824-1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com

Rex Hotel 141 Nguyen Hue St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3829-2185 www.rexhotelvietnm.com

Sofitel Saigon Plaza

48/7 Me Linh St, Ward 19, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 6294-7059 www.san-art.org SIGHTSEEINGS

Notre Dame Cathedral

HERITAGE

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MUSEUMS

Fine Arts Museum of Ho Chi Minh City 97A Pho Duc Chinh St, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3829-4441 www.baotangmythuattphcm.com Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Closed Mondays 41 Hoang Du Khuong S, Ward 12, Dist. 10, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3864-2430 www.fitomuseum.com.vn Open daily from 8.30 a.m. till 5.30 p.m.

Ticket: VND50,000 The first museum of traditional Vietnamese medicine

Ho Chi Minh City Museum 65 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3829-9741 www.hcmc-museum.edu.vn Open daily 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Independence Palace 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3822-3652 www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn Open daily, 7.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m., 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.

Southern Women Museum 202 Vo Thi Sau St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (028) 3932-7130

The History Museum 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3829-8146 www.baotanglichsuvn.com 8 a.m. - 11.30 p.m. and 1.30 p.m.

- 5 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday.

Closed on Monday

Ben Thanh Market

War Remnants Museum

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VUNG TAU

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0254) HOTELS, RESORTS

Petrosetco Hotel 12 Truong Cong Dinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau. Tel: (0254) 3624-748 www.petrosetcohotel.vn

Petro House Hotel 63 Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel : (0254) 3852-014 Hotline: 0961.085.869 Email: info@petrohousehotel.vn www.petrohousehotel.vn

The Coast Hotel

Fito Museum

Cong Xa Paris Square, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Built in 1877, and the Cathedral opened to the public in 1880. The bricks used to build this marvellous structure were shipped from Marseilles.

Le Lai St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Ben Thanh market is a trade centre and

46 • V I E T N A M

Chinatown – Cho Lon

Tel: (028) 3930-5587 Email: warrmhcm@gmail.com Open daily 7.30 a.m. to midday and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

28 Vo Van Tan St, Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City.

300A Phan Chu Trinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau City Tel: (0254) 3627-777 Email: info@thecoasthotelvungtau.com www.thecoasthotelvungtau.com MUSEUM

White Palace 6 Tran Phu St, Ward.1, Vung Tau City Tel: (0254) 3852-605 Open daily 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.

PHU QUOC

(TELEPHONE CODE: 077) Eden Resort Phu Quoc Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Ward, Phu Quoc District, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3985-598 www.edenresort.com.vn MUSEUMS Coi Nguon Museum 149 Tran Hung Dao St, Duong dong Town, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3980-206 www.coinguonphuquoc.com

VIETNAM HERITAGE MAGAZINE 1/1 Hoang Viet, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam - Tel: (84-28) 3811 8846 - Email: vnheritagemagazine@gmail.com www.vietnamheritage.com.vn

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