Vietnam Heritage - April - May 2019

2:9 APR-MAY 2019

H’Hen Nie: the most beautiful girl of the world who lives next door

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CONTENT No 2, VOL.9, APRIL - MAY 2019

TRAVEL

8 Nature reserve offers hidden delights NATURE

10 Red cotton flower season HISTORY

12 A king who favored buddhism CUSTUME

14 Hue craves the return of ao dai

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INTERVIVIEW / PHOTOGRAPHY

16 Passion for my hometown Hue BEVERAGE

18 Totally tropical tasting tipple: Bia crafted in Vietnam ART

22 Hurricane of Angels INTERVIEW

24 H’Hen Nie: the most beautiful girl of the world who lives next door TRAVEL

28 The “hunt” for clouds and fog in Moc Chau 30 British divers explore Son Doong Cave ARCHITECTURE

34 Ancient port with hundreds of relic sites

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ART / BOOKS

New book rescues classic folk paintings from obscurity EVENT

WHAT THE PAPERS SAY

DIRECTIONS

Cover photograph: H’Hen Nie - Miss Vietnam 2017, a top 5 finalist in the Miss Universe 2018 contest, and Missology Timeless Beauty 2018. Photo by Thien An Published by the Cultural Heritage Association of Vietnam

Publication licence No: 1648/GP-BTTTT from the Ministry of Information and Communications of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam for the English-language edition of The Gioi Di San (The World of Heritage) magazine Editor-in-Chief: Le Thanh Hai; Public Relations Director: Bui Thi Hang Managing Editor: Kha Tu Anh; Sub-editing: Erik Johnson, Le Hoai Nam ; Assistant: Van Thanh Nga, Nguyen Dang Khoa; Designer: Thanh Mai; Contributing Photographers: Nguyen Ba Han, Hoang Quoc Tuan, Hoang The Nhiem, Huynh Van Nam, Le Hoai Phuong, Nguyen Anh Tuan; Nguyen Ba Ngoc Correspondent: Pip de Rouvray; Advertising and Circulation: Green Viet Advertising JSC Email: tapchidisanvietnam@gmail.com & vnheritagemagazine@gmail.com; Thuy Phuong 0969 47 3579 Hanoi Advertising and Subscription: The He Moi MHN Viet Nam Co.Ltd, Mr Song Hao: 0903 476 999 Contact in the US for subscription and advertising: 2628 Sturla dr. San Jose, CA 95148

Vietnam Heritage Magazine

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Vietnam Heritage is published monthly, produced in Vietnam and printed at Army Printing House No 2. © All rights reserved.

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Lighting candles, a ritual of the Khmer Bun Chol Vo Sa Festival Soc Trang Province, 2017 Photo: Dinh Cong Tam Photo from Exhibitions of Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards 2017

TRAVEL

Nature reserve offers hidden delights

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n early 2019, Na Hang – Lam Binh Nature Reserve in Tuyen Quang Province was recognized as a “National Special Scenic Attraction.”

Located in Na Hang and Lam Binh districts, 250km from Hanoi, this 40,000ha attraction has 33,061ha of forests and 8,000ha of lakes.

Multiple lakes densely surrounding karsts help diversify wildlife in the Na Hang – Lam Binh forests with 1,162 floral species and 430 fauna species, including black snub-nosed monkeys, which can be found only in Vietnam.

Scientists have also found in the caves within the Na Hang – Lam Binh forests

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TEXT BY KHANH LE ; PHOTOS BY HA THE DO

traces of prehistoric people. During the recent historical period, many of the caves within the reserve were used as military camps, offices and weapon production factories of the Vietnamese army in the wars against the French and Americans.

Today, about 15 ethnic minorities live in the forests of Na Hang – Lam Binh with their unique culture, making it a diverse cultural environment.

With the above mentioned natural, historical and cultural characteristics the Na Hang – Lam Binh Nature Reserve has many secrets waiting for visitors to uncover.

According to the authorities of Tuyen

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Hanoi

Tuyen Quang

HCM City

Quang Province, the nature reserve has 52 spots for tourists to visit, including 32 scenic places, seven archaeological relics, nine vestiges of architecture and arts, and four cultural heritage sites. A dozen of these spots have been ranked national attractions or relics.

The most notable spots

99 Thuong Lam peaks in Thuong Lam Commune of Lam Binh District is one of the most beautiful places in the reserve, about 15km from the Lam Binh District township. The 99 peaks are not only picturesque, but also related to a mythological legend.

TRAVEL

Song Long Cave of Khuon Ha Commune of Lam Binh District is bigger and more beautiful among the caves of the reserve. The 200m- long cave is about 50m wide with the ceiling 40m high, full of mysterious-looking and magnificent stalactites that look like chandeliers.

Phia Muon Cave, an archaeological relic in Son Phu Commune is about 7km from Na Hang township. This is the dwelling space and graveyard of prehistoric people. In this cave, scientists found sophisticated stone tools and graves dated 3500 – 4500 years ago. Visitors to Phia Muon cave will see dozens of such graves

of the post-Neolithic times and the dwelling of people of that ancient era.

Age-old villages of the Tay people such as those of Dong Da, Ban Khe, Bang Giong, Na Ta etc. are purely Tay villages where Tay people maintain their ancient lifestyle, customs and culture. Each village is a group of ancient stilted houses standing at a foothill near terraced paddy fields, creating a peaceful and poetic scenery.

People live by growing rice, domestic animals, and weaving traditional brocades. To many, the image of Tay women in traditional garments sitting by an old loom is a symbol of this land.n

For those who want to explore the reserve, it is best to rent a room at Na Hang township or at the Lang Can Commune in the center of Lam Binh District.

At Thuong Lam Commune of Lam Binh District, many ethnic minority households have homestay service for those who want to taste life in traditional stilted houses.

From My Dinh bus terminal in Hanoi everyday there are about 10 buses going to Lam Binh and Na Hang.

Tickets prices are 70,000VND/seat and 140,000VND/bed, respectively.

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Red cotton flower season

NATURE

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY LE BICH

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ed cotton trees blossom in the 3rd lunar month. The bright red flowers never fail to invoke the sense of nostalgia. The tree grows in almost every village of the northern countryside, usually at the village gate or alone amid paddy fields. The flowers are also given many beautiful literary names that associate them with some mesmerizing pieces of prose or poetry. To our ancestors, they are also the signal of changing seasons when farmers must change to other, more weather-suitable crops.

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“Sow sesame when fireflies light the garden And red cotton flowers cover the streets…”

Ancient people said, “Banyan tree shelters spirits, red cotton tree ghosts.” Perhaps that’s why red cotton trees are usually planted at the village gate to keep ghosts from coming in. Poor villages had only a red cotton tree instead of a gate. The five petal, scarlet flower spins beautifully as it falls. Cotton trees on river banks sprinkle their flowers on the water creating a poetic scene. The Red River section from the ceramic village of Bat Trang to Hung Yen, and

NATURE

the Day River section from Vac crossing to Ba Tha, for example, have many heart-warming red cotton trees. I was not born in the countryside, yet I can feel the touch, the soft but deep call of the places I have lived at the sight of a red cotton tree with kids playing in its shade. It always reminds me of the poem about the cotton flower and the love of a young couple: Summer sun burns the petals red, Paths carpeted with the color of home, It’s the red cotton blossom season, Come back to me to say you love me!

Beloved is the month of red cotton flower blossom.

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HISTORY

A KING WHO FAVORED BUDDHISM

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TEXT BY PROF. TRINH SINH; PHOTOS BY LE BICH

he era of Middle Prosperity of Le boasted having the most bizarre king in our history, King Le Than Tong. He was born in 1607, in the two-century-long period of power sharing between the Le and Trinh families. The Trinh Lords had the real power, while Le Kings were only their marionettes. The Trinh Lords decided who among the Le family would be the King. Somehow, as a 13-year-old boy, Le Than Tong became king. Furthermore, the Trinh Lord forced him to marry his (Trinh’s) daughter Trinh Thi Ngoc Truc as his Queen, who was 12 years older than the king and had already four children. The king could but obey. Having denounced burdens of kingship to be secluded royalty, he was enthroned again against his will. In our history, perhaps Le Than Tong was the only person to be king, unwillingly, and even twice at that.

Being “intelligent and erudite, cunning, resourceful and versed in literary, as a good king should be,” as described in historical records, the King nevertheless submitted to the control of the Trinh clan, as he possessed no real power. The courtiers advised against his marriage with too old a wife, but he just clucked his tongue, “Just wanna be done with it.” His tongue clucking gave him the peace of a caged bird. Not that he never wanted to seize the power of the king, but quickly deferred every time because Lord Trinh Tung was his grandfather on his mother’s side, and his son Lord Trinh Trang was his uncle.

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Hoe Nhai Pagoda, Hang Than Street, Hanoi

HISTORY The tangled blood relationships between the King’s clan and the Lords clan helped reinforce the top echelon of power and keep the society stable. For 200 years of the Le-Trinh rule, the Northern border was kept firm, although the Ming Dynasty was at its utmost prosperity and always covetous of Dai Viet.

Le Than Tong only wanted that “the King’s and the Lord’s clans live in harmony, peacefully enjoying heaven’s rewards.

That’s the best state of the union. Four times going out to wars, and two times ascending to the throne, is it not remarkable?” commented historian Ngo Si Lien in his “History of Dai Viet.”)

Historians will long debate whether he was wise or weak. The fact is that the Trinh Lords made him king, and then made four of his sons the successive kings. So he also holds the record of fathering more kings than any others in our country’s history.

The king promoted talent, and removed the exam cheaters. According to the records, in the 1623 doctorate exam a man named Nguyen Trat won the honor. But as it was found out that he hired a proxy to earn his previous degree, the king withheld the man’s doctorate degree and the accompanying mandarin position. The 1628 exam yielded several doctors, including Giang Van Minh, later a fabled diplomat. In the 1631 exam, it was reported that candidate Nguyen Van Quang was matriculated below the standard grade, and the king crossed out his name. Doctorate exams were held successfully in 1634, 1637 and 1643 in the same fashion. The talent selection exams under King Le Than Tong were more fair than under many other rulers.

Le Than Tong liked having foreign wives. He had Thai, Chinese, Laos and Muong ones... Notably, he had also a

Dutch wife named Orona. That helped the trade with the Dutch flourish. In this period, many Dutch trading ships came to do business in the North. Famous centers such as Pho Hien, Thang Long etc. were bustling with trade, making Dai Viet rich and strong. Whether a political and economic union or just another “tongue clucking” of the King, Queen Orona’s importance was confirmed by the fact that she is one of the six queens and concubines worshipped at Mat Temple in Thanh Hoa. It is worth mentioning the king’s first queen, Lady Trinh Thi Ngoc Truc. Being the mother of the nation, she had not much of a happy marriage with the king and soon retired to be a Buddhist nun at But Thap Pagoda in Bac Ninh. She authored the “Explanation of Precious Sounds of the Southernmost Land,” considered a Chinese-Vietnamese dictionary and the country’s first encyclopedia.

Mat Son Pagoda, Thanh Hoa Province.

Photo provided by Prof. Trinh Sinh

Le Than Tong favored Buddhism and loved to travel. The “Unified History of Dai Nam” recorded, “King Le Than Tong traveled to Mount Gem Woman at Mat Son Village, Bo Ve Commune, Dong Son District, and ordered the building of Dai Bi Pagoda, also called Mat Son Pagoda, facing Vi Canal. The king also ordered the carv-

ing of his statue, which is worshipped by locals till today.”

Besides the statue of King Than Tong, Mat Son Pagoda also houses statues of six of his wives seated around him. The statues are nearly life-sized, made of precious timber, lacquered and gilded. Notably, the statue of Queen Orona has typical Western features such as high and straight nose, opulent face, splendid garments and portly figure. The presence of the Dutch Queen proves that she had truly blended with the Vietnamese and they respected her despite the fact that she was foreign. The King is seated on a triple lotus estrade. His wives are in meditating positions, their hands making mudras. These statues show how Queens and concubines dressed in Le’s court. Queen Trinh Thi Ngoc Truc’s statue, the most beautiful one, was taken away to be placed in the National Museum of Arts and recently ranked a National Treasure.

After abdicating in favor of his son Le Chan Tong, Le Than Tong receded to live in Khan Son Pagoda in the northwest of Thang Long Citadel. Buddhism was prominent, and Buddhist temples sprang up everywhere.

As Le Hy Tong, Le Than Tong’s youngest son ascended to the throne, Confucianism usurped the dominance over Buddhism and monks were persecuted and had to flee from Thang Long or be decapitated. It was His Reverence Tong Zien, the Second Progenitor of the sect of Tao Dong, who wrote a petition letter to disabuse King Le Hy Tong and restore him to the righteous way. To show his repentance before the Buddha, Le Hy Tong had a statue made of himself kneeling on all fours, with Buddha sitting on his back. This most unique statue is very well preserved and worshipped in the pagoda of Hoe Nhai. n

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COSTUME

Hue craves the return of ao dai TEXT BY HOA HA PHOTOS BY LE HUY HOANG HAI

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ue was the birthplace of ao dai, the Vietnamese national costume. A long time ago, when Western culture had not yet interfered with local dressing tradition, everyone in this former imperial capital city could be found dressed in ao dai at all times.

Today, Hue wants that glory back as a means to maintain the typical local culture, honor ancestors who created the elegant costume, and make the city more attractive to visitors.

In 1557, the Nguyen Lords settled Thuan Hoa and ruled the southern part of Vietnamese territory as single nation. The political separation produced the need for cultural differentiation, including costume.

The first lord who came up with costume separation was Vo Vuong Nguyen Phuc Khoat, according to researcher Nguyen Xuan Hoa. The lord ordered the creation of a type of dress that could be dif-

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ferentiated from those in the north, marking the birth of ao dai.

“By 1774, the costume was popular in Thuan, Quang and Dong Nai, (which today are Hue, the southern Central region, and the eastern South region of Vietnam respectively).

Researcher Hoa said King Gia Long requested the synchronization of one type of dress for people all over the country. However, he was sympathetic the sudden change and allowed time for northern residents to get familiar with the southern dwellers’ costume.

During his reign, the king did not have chance to see ao dai’s popularity in the country. His son, Minh Mang, continued the integration. But later, he made an order for the synchronisation in Quang Binh, and then throughout the northern region by 1837. Ao dai became the national dress of Vietnamese people.

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National culture legacy

Women born in the 1940s, 1950s, and 1960s consider wearing ao dai a must during Tet holiday for their participation at a wedding party, during their visits to funerals or any other special occasions. They have sets of ao dai in different colours and styles for the manner of the events.

Men do not wear the costume as often as the women.Colours of ao dai change according to their ages. The middle-aged men wear black, men from 70 to 89 years old wear blue, and those 90 and more wear red.

According to researcher Tran Dinh Hang, ao dai is for decency and courteousy.

“To Vietnamese, the time with a set of ao dai covering their bodies is the time that they could do something immoral,” he said.

That means wearing an ao dai is wearing respect. Researcher Hoa explained that structure of ao dai at its first design meant courteousy and the respect.

COSTUME

“Originally ao dai had four main laps and one smaller lap covering the chest.

Each also had five buttons,” Hoa said. “The main laps represented the four persons of parents, including the blood and the inlaws, mothers and fathers, and the smaller one stood for the wearer.”

“The five buttons were the reminders of the relations with king, father, spouse, siblings and friends. They also described the five morals necesaary to be a good person according to Confucian norms.

Comeback in glory

Local governments have worked to encourage locals and school girls to wear the ao dai more often. It also involves researchers in brainstorming plans that could bring back to the birthplace of ao dai the glory of this charming type of dress.

Throughout almost 200 years across the country, ao dai at its birthplace has retained

its own features. “Hue’s ao dai has its own features and it has a typical identity,” said researcher Hoa. According to researcher Hang, Hue’s ao dai differentiate from other styles of this costume presented in other regions of the country in the features of colour, material, iconic signature, ambiance, and style.

Today, many visitors manage to have an ao dai sewn in Hue during their trips here. Local government and Hue researchers want to build up Hue as a centre of ao dai production.

Researcher Hoa came up with the idea to increase the popularity of the costume in the city. “Festivals honouring Hue’s ao dai and events to show gratefulness to Vo Vuong Nguyen Phuc Khoat and King Khai Dinh will help lure attention to the costume,” Hoa said.

Researcher Hang said the city of Hue needs to have a centre designated for ao dai.

At the centre, visitors view the sets of old as

well as royal style ao dai. People who want to have deeper knowledge on the national costume could sit down for study and those desire to buy one set; the centre would be able to supply them with products.

“But the key is to gather the top skilled tailors of ao dai for the service of quick sewing to meet swift demand of visitors who do not stay long in the city,” said researcher Hang. The local government is studying to open stalls for exhibition and trading of ao dai in the local airport in an attempt to get visitors familiar with the costume during their arrival and departure.

Despite ao dai and conical hat being a national legacy, many people still look at Hue as the centre of the costume. Many poets and photographers take trips to this city to enjoy the beautyof ao dai and conical hats worn by school girls. Hue is expecting to preserve that kind of beauty and make it a cultural signature of this poetic city. n

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INTERVIEW/PHOTOGRAPHY

Passion for my hometown Hue Luong Nam Nhat Long

In the first days of the New Year 2019, Thuy Lien had a conversation with photographer Luong Nam Nhat Long from Hue, First Prize winner in the category of Young Authors in the 2018 Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards for the photo “ Out of Class” Hi Long, please talk about why you took part in the 2018 Vietnam Heritage photo contest?

I was wandering randomly on Facebook and stumbled on this photo contest ad of Vietnam Heritage, and the exciting ao dai theme made me register.

I browsed through the pics of ao dai I took that had some element of heritage, and stopped at the one of young female students on Trang Tien Bridge. In this picture, a film crew was re-enacting a scene of students of Dong Khanh School of the old times for a music video background.

How did you feel about winning the first prize in the category of Young Authors in the 2018 Contest of Vietnam Heritage Photography?

I was happily overwhelmed. I knew I won a prize, but not which one. When I came into that room and heard my name, I was dumbstruck. People had to call me again to come up the stage. I was overjoyed.

In Hue, there are so many great masters of photographing ao dai, while I am not

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even a professional at that. All children of Hue love their native land as much as I do, I guess. But I both do and don’t want Hue to develop, because its quintessence is in peaceful and slow pace of life, not boisterous like other cities.

What is photography in your life?

I took photos all the time to record moments of my life, but with my smartphone only because that was all I had. I liked my pictures and sent them to the contests of photos taken with a smartphone. I got a prize, which was a real photo camera.

Actually, my major is IT, which has very little to do with photography. Programming is mechanical in nature. It is not artistic at all. I currently work as a photographer for a few newspapers in Thua Thien – Hue and freelance in web programming.

How does your family react to your working as a photographer?

In fact, at first they didn’t like the idea that I followed the photography craft and even tried to stop me. They wanted me to work in the field I studied. Another reason was that

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nobody in my family practiced photography.

So I quit for about a year. Then I felt the itch to go out and take pictures. Later, as I achieved a few small successes, my family stopped opposing me and even started supporting me.

Can the 2018 Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards be seen then as a pivoting point in your career?

The prize won may very well be an important milestone in my career as a photographer. After the contest, many more people have come to know me, certainly.

In the prize-awarding ceremony the authors had a chance to mingle and meet, and that was a great way to network. I personally had a chance to meet many people I have been long admiring but never got to see.

Share with us some little stories you find interesting about your practice?

In my practice, there are plenty of such stories, but the ones about photographing the Milky Way are the most memorable. I have never succeeded to take a decent picture, not yet.

INTERVIEW/PHOTOGRAPHY

“Out of Class” by Luong Nam Nhat Long - Junior Vietnam Heritage Photos Awards 2018 First Prize

Theoretically, one can see the Milky Way from everywhere, but actually it is impossible to photograph it in the city. One has to go away, far from human settlements in order to capture it.

In Hue, the Milky Way usually can be seen at about 2 – 3 am. To have a good picture, one needs a unique and unexpected angle. Once a friend of mine and I went to a cemetery to sit and wait. It was so eerie; we both sweated profusely although it was quite cold.

Another time, quite recently, I went with three friends to Bach Ma national park to take pictures of red maples, but we took very little food because we thought it wouldn’t take too long. We had only six packages of biscuits, all in a bag carried by the chubbiest guy..The scenery turned out to be too beautiful along the way, so we stopped a lot to take pictures, and the day passed by unnoticed. The biscuit carrier had chewed all the biscuits involuntarily because he was very quick at getting hungry.

We had but a little water left, and a lot of laughter.

We have seen the famous red-shanked douc at Son Tra, but they were too far away so I could only enjoy watching them without taking any picture.

You obviously have a special love for Hue, which is also a familiar destination for tourism in Vietnam. Is there anything special about Hue that you would like to share?

I have plenty. Take for example the ao dai of Hue, or the Hue rains. But a photo set taken in just 1-2 years can never be enough.

You can go around to see how Vinh Thanh fishermen catch squids, and to see their hardship during the high water season. Recently, photographers took very

A photo of Hue by Nhat Long

beautiful pictures of the Ru Cha mangrove, mostly using flycams.

Hue is also famous with the craft villages such as bronze cast village, delicacies village, and mussel village that make many dishes with tiny mussels.

A photo of Hue by Nhat Long

Talking about Hue. one must mention the great ceremonies such as the staged Heaven and Earth Consecration, Nation Consecration, and the New Year tree erection inside the citadel at 3am.

The Heaven and Earth Consecration is a men-only ritual. Attendees must wear traditional outfits. The high ranking mandarins host the event and conduct the ritual. They are accompanied by a drum team, a blowpipe team and a dance team. The offerings normally include fruits and five different animals.

The ritual includes presenting to the deities wines, reports and a seal.

The ritual is always solemn and full of grandeur because Hue people have high spiritual values. The people attending it always take home some godsend. They say it has power so I also take it (laughter).

What 2019 will be for you, a year completely devoted to photography and Hue? Yes, sure. I will learn to improve my technical skills, and earn more to acquire some dream equipment.

In addition, I hope to collaborate with many more entities to bring the image of Hue to more people.

I wish that your plans are realized in 2019. Thank you for a sincere and enthusiastic conversation.

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Totally tropical tasting tipple: Bia crafted in Vietnam

BEVERAGE

TEXT BY PIP DE ROUVRAY PHOTOS BY JAMES GORDON

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ver the more than twenty years since I came to Vietnam, beer has developed along with the economy in general. Personally, I am nostalgic for the days of bia hoi, when you sat down on a plastic chair on the pavement and basic freshly-brewed beer came in a large bucket and cost as little as chips. Then came the beer halls and courtyards based on Bavarian and Bohemian beers brewed often on site in beaming copper ware vats, a quantitative leap in quality and price. Finally, with Pasteur Street leading the revolution in 2014, we have what the Americans neatly call craft beer and the English term real ale.

These serve up beers of Irish, British, Belgian and German origins at a further notch up in price.

Down an alley way adjacent to the Rex Hotel Saigon through a long archway upon which are murals of the company logo and of its beer products and then up some steep steps, you will find the original tap room of the Pasteur Street Brewing Company. Since opening, it has expanded, now having several more tap rooms in this city and one in Hanoi. In addition, it supplies many other bars as well as now having two canned beers at 59,000 VND a can (the Passion Fruit

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BEVERAGE

Wheat beer and the Jasmine IPA) available at 7 Eleven branches. You can also buy to take away in the tap rooms in a large bottle called a growler with an old fashioned stopper. Return the bottle and you will be rewarded with a free sampler beer. Finally, the award-winning Chocolate Stout with the bottle in a wooden presentation casing can be purchased at 725,000 VND. Whilst the barley and wheat ingredients and the hops are obviously imported, the other flavourings are home-grown; either completely native or long since introduced by the Portuguese and French.They constantly introduce new tastes and phase out others but at any one time, there will be around twelve on tap. The jasmine and passion fruit Indian pale ales are popular and permanent. Some of the beers are given quite awe-inspiring names. There is the 'Burning Down the House' which refers to the

strength of their Imperial Pale Ale (double IPA). I do not know the meaning behind 'The Inevitable Backlash' but I can tell you it is a New England IPA. One of my favourites is the bright red Salty Dragon; their Dragon Fruit IPA which contains salt and the style is originally from Goslar in Germany. I also love the Coffee Porter. There are in addition currently two Belgian wheat beers to be savoured. First, they have Spice Island Saison which is flavoured with ginger,lemongrass and Phu Quoc black pepper. Finally, the Viet Wit has notes of sweet orange peel and coriander. Watch out for Chocolate Mango beer slated to hit Pasteur tap rooms soon.

The bar meals and snacks served at Pasteur tap rooms to accompany its beers make for above average pub grub. The usual lager type beers in Vietnam generally do require something to nibble along with, but many of the beers here brewed with all the ingredients are filling enough in themselves. Nevertheless, there are suggestions for beer food pairings and beer goes into some of the sauces developed. Currently, the menu is reduced to six snacks. Freshly chopped local herbs and spices are used. Furthermore, the Chicken Bites contain hot chilies. the Stuffed Meatballs are topped with Da lat

tomato sauce, and the Cyclo Killer Brownies are served with holy basil and Saigon cinnamon chantilly cream.

As of late last year, Pasteur now sells a line of perfumed soaps products made by a company called 'Saigon Suds', and you guessed it, made with the scents derived from the use of its beers in the making.

There are four kinds, each with as intriguingly and creatively names as the beers. Jasmine IPA is used in the "Last Call" soap, Dragon Fruit in the "Pretty in Pink", Coffee Porter in the "Lumberjack Ale" variety, and Irish Stout in the "Shampoo"soap. Each soap is deemed to be suited for different kinds of skin. If like me, you get the prickly heat in this tropical climate, then the "Last Call" for inflamed and irritating skin is for you. All this is guaranteed to liven up your bath time but at 150,000 dongs per bar, it comes at a premium price.

Refreshing it is to meet a foreign invested and managed company that brings very traditional Northern European brewing to Vietnam while paying homage to its hosts by using quintessential Vietnamese fruits, herbs and spices in most creative and original ways. See you at a Pasteur tap room or beer outlet. We can raise and clink our glasses to a mot hai ba dzo Vietnamese toast but please no cries of cham phan cham (The Vietnamese “100 per cent” battle cry that precedes knocking back a drink in one go), These are beers to be relished and slowly sipped. n

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ART

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Hurricane of Angels TEXT BY LE THANH HAI PHOTOS PROVIDED BY JANIE LAWSON

came to the Art Space in the evening.

The spacious café at the Anantara Hoi An Resort had several guests having dinner at the tall central table. There are lots of photos and paintings; black and white and coloured on the walls and along the path to the inside. Impressive photo portraits by Réhahn on the raw cement wall and images of ordinary street scenes hanging in a row caught my attention. After a while looking at the pictures, I asked the waiter where the newly launched art work, “Hurricane of Angels” by Janie Lawson, was, as I was invited to Anantara Hoi An Reosrt at its opening, but couldn’t arrange the trip on time. The waiter invited me to sit on the sofa in the front area of the café where there was something twinkling above and moving gently. He said this is a Hurricane of Angels.

I sat down and looked up with suspicion. My imagination of angels must have come from classical art where angels are beautiful babies in white or nicely dressed girls with wings. And here I first saw something like dragonflies and looking closely, I saw figures of men made in forms of bones with wings.

They evoked a mixture of feelings–tiny creatures, severe, hard, extreme with sparkling diamonds on their wings. They were swinging gently when a breeze came by, and when

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we talked to each other, they seemingly also made whispering sounds. It was interesting that those angels can react to the conversation of the people around the table, as they are very light, and the noise from the conversation can make them swing, cling together or part. Then the waiter led me to the second Hurricane of Angels. The artwork hung above a sleeping chair.I couldn’t resist laying down and watching hundreds of angels silently and gently move above me.

The next morning, I met Janie Lawson, the author of the sculptures that altered my imagination of angels and strongly provoked my curiosity. Janie Lawson was very sweet and open to share her story of the artwork.

“As a kid, I would be in a chair at the front of my family home – my legs and hips in plaster casts, my friends playing in the street close by while I was happily drawing.

As an adult, an idea began to form inside me – a pearl made by the grit of my disability, that maybe, just maybe I chose to be this way. Perhaps in the last life, I moved too fast.

I believe it is possible I may once have passed by the beauty in the small things. The reflection of the clouds in the puddles on the road, the cracks in the pavement where the oil pools and sparkles. It could be that I didn’t have time to run my hands across the

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bricks of the wall on the street and imagine the life of the person who had built it. Could it be that I had agreed in this latest life to have to tread my path more slowly? To have the opportunity to see more of the beauty around me? At twenty-seven, after many hip and leg operations and on graduating from St. Martins School of Arts, I had my first total hip replacement and bone graft. The xray was shocking. My own hip devastated, the new one strangely sculptural. I had become part sculpture and was grateful for the cooperative skills involved in keeping me on my feet. I thought of the person who made the metal implant, I thought of the person who made the metal implant, the surgeon who planted it, the medical researchers who together came up with this strange and helpful fix, the nurses’ training, care and humor, the anesthesiologist who kept me on pause while I was rebuilt. Prior to the operation I

ART

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Ninety–nine different sizes of angels packed tight are noisy, cramped, whispering creatures all clapping their wings together, building to an all-encompassing crazy. A noisy, intense dream that threatens your current world. Inspired by an experience where I felt that I was in the eye of the storm, the world filled with madness around me as I held my nerve in the midst of it all. I called this Hurricane Angel One. The second angel hurricane is the physical representation of the experience of looking back after the first hurricane had passed. The madness dissipated; it is lighter, has more space, is a gentle murmuring build of delicate whispers. It is only once the hurricane has passed that you will know where you are in your new world and how much of the old ones needed to be blown away. You may find you carry the ghost of the hurricane with you, reminding you of how your life can be made a new. This is Hurricane Angel Two.

would watch others walk or run and imagine being able to move without pain; I decided that would be like having wings. I began to make winged creatures – my kind of angels, a sort of hope that one day I would fly – in my own way.

Recovering from the operation, I made more angels and more still. It was the thing I could do – sit and sculpt with wire, crystal

“”

and a pair of pliers. I would be mindful to think positively as I made them. Wanting them to be filled with good energy and hope, I sculpted those tiny angels into bigger sculptures made up of multiple angels. To my surprise, people wanted to buy them, it seemed people really loved them and they sold in London, Tokyo and Europe.

My favourite angel story is that when my

first small angel mobile sculptures were displayed in The Ritz Hotel in London, Yo Yo Ma saw them, bought every one of them and asked for more. He wanted to hang them in his music room to inspire him while he composed. Sometimes I listen to Yo Yo Ma while I make my angels; that symmetry makes me smile.

I have wanted for a long time to make bigger art work and this door opened for me when I moved to Hoi An last year. I made a crown of angels for a writer to wear while she wrote. She wore the crown to a gallery, which is how Bridget March first came to see my work and encouranged me to do more. My angels are part me and part all the people I have ever met. I found a metal worker with a magical heart who I commissioned to make the Fibonacci spirals on which my angels are suspended and a team of creative help me thread the sculptures together. There are parts of many people in my work. Their hopes and wished, dreams and heartaches – because I believe that when you work on a sculpture, part of you goes with it. I encourage you to take a seat under the angels, take your time, I hope you too see beauty in the small things. The way that I have been lucky enough to spend my life doing” Janie Lawson gave me one of her magic angels in a nice wrapping. I feel blessed to have met her and received the special energy from her work. I went to sleep with a new image of angels, which silently encouraged and inspired me. They are not from the legends, they are very true.

Talking with Lawson and to learn more about the artist’s dream, I wished that her works could be introduced to more and more audiences. Personally, I think a spacious luxurious place with a black background would be also excellent for viewing the sculpture – wired strong angels with the sparkling of crystals on the wings.

Janie Lawson has been living in Hoi An for nearly two years. She graduated in Art & Design – Richmond College, London. BA Hons. Fashion Design – Saint Martins School of Art, London and had exhibitions at London Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week bi-annually 2003-2006. Exhibiting sculptural millinery and jewellery. n

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INTERVIEW

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H’Hen Nie: the most beautiful girl of the world who lives next door TEXT BY THUY LIEN. PHOTO BY THIEN AN

he was Miss Vietnam 2017, a top 5 finalist in the Miss Universe 2018 contest, and Missology Timeless Beauty 2018.

That should be enough to describe the head-spinning success of this glamorous Ede girl in global beauty pageants. However, none of that changed her mind a bit. H’Hen Nie just wants the world to regard her as a daughter of the highlands, no more and no less.

Hello Hen, congrats on having excellently accomplished your Ambassadorial duties at the Buon Ma Thuot Coffee Festival 2019.

How do you feel?

The Coffee Festival didn’t promote just coffee. More signigicantly, it promoted Dak Lak Province and called for investment, etc. The festival must have been inspiring, so that every coffee grower thinks about quality organic coffee, about having his or her own brand name. The positive thing is that now we have an environment for selfdevelopment, and the young people dare set a goal of doing business.

I am truly proud of having been Ambassador for many festivities. It was an eyeopening experience. As a child, every time I had a chance to come down to the six corners (Ban Me Thuot downtown - interviewer) I couldn’t help but feel bewildered, finding everything so overwhelmingly beautiful. And now I parade with people there to promote coffee and tourism for our province. That made me so happy.

Everybody in the province is your fan and wants to selfie with you. How does it feel?

Well that’s what fans do. I think it a bit clumsy. I’d rather someone else take my pic-

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H”Hen Nie at Coffee Festival, Buon Ma Thuot, 2019

ture for me while I relax and make a good pose. I’d prefer to make it easy, and go slowly so that everybody has time to enjoy and look good in the pictures taken. But people rush too much. They don’t even hold the cellphone properly, and some even make grimaces, and the photos taken are generally unclear. My face sometimes is not captured entirely. The guards are really having a hard time restraining the crowd. Coming home and being so warmly welcome is great, but I would like to have more time to really talk to people.

At the moment, besides the Coffee Festival do you have time for any other community projects?

Women, children and education are the areas I am interested in most. Right now I am Ambassador of the Vietnam Women’s Association in the “Year of Safety for Women and Children 2019” program. It

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gives me a chance to meet extraordinary women. They all consider me as a little sister in the family and share with me precious knowledge about work and life. Through the program, I learn about so many issues women face such as breast cancer, domestic violence, and being trafficked to other countries etc.

I am currently also Ambassador for Room-to-Read program, which builds libraries for primary schools, remakes and decorates classrooms with children friendly wall paintings and pledges to raise 22,000 USD. I am using my personal channels for the fundraising work. I also used to sell books at the book street Nguyen Van Binh and made a lot of money. The pinnacle was when I came back from the Miss Universe pageant and put the fund’s link on my Instagram page.

The money collected has greatly exceeded the originally set amount.

There are some problems though.

The fund page is a bit difficult for Vietnamese people to use because it is in English and page users must use Master Card to make contributions.

Coming to school and meeting sunburned kids dressed in rags, I feel so much pity for them. I think they need better food and clothes, but libraries are also needed all the same. They help kids learn how to think.

The library Room to Read and I established in Lam Dong was a big success. It is mostly used by the kids of the K’Ho minority. They love to come to the library to see illustrations and read, sometimes by themselves, sometimes under guidance of a lady librarian.

Apart from that, I am also collaborating with the Vu A Zinh scholarship fund of Vice-President Truong My Hoa, which

INTERVIEW sponsors students from high school to university graduation. The scholarship recepients show great determination to achieve.

Coming back from the 2018 Miss Universe pageant, I have more ideas for community work and get much more collaboration from businesses. On the other hand, I also see that the work I do has not utilized all the potential. The current project needs to reach greater depth to bring more essential changes to the life of women and children.

Your native land is beautiful, scenic and poetic.

What can you say about the people there?

The people in my native land are very fervent. Any family has a wedding or a funeral, they would all abandon everything to come and help. My mom would give what she could to a sick person or someone in need, some rice or household utensils, etc. Our house even before I became beauty queen has always been full of joy. People come to share stories, comfortably as at home.

Every time coming home, I always spend as much time with the community as possible. Most often I bring flowers to the graveyard to visit my deceased relatives.

I think that is the way I can express my feelings to those who have passed away, although it’s not what my family and village people usually do.

Ede society is matriarchal. So who has inspired you to pursue this path, so to speak, that led to today’s success?

My family used to be poor. My mother gave birth in the morning and went to work the fields that afternoon.

She is the symbol of a strong and thrifty woman. People didn’t have the notion of reproductive health in those days. Now she has quite a few problems. She fears the cold and often has to cover her head and feet.

My mom used to carry my siblings on her back to go work the fields. Life was tough, and nobody taught her how to earn a living. She had to find out all by herself. She became the one in the family to decide what to plant, what to grow. My personal observation is that in life, women see further and clearer than men.

My mom loves everybody around her and she made them know it. Our Ede people have a custom that on his wedding the newlywed husband adopts a couple in his wife’s village as his parents. My mom has a dozen such adopted sons because everybody loves her so much. My grandma had only 3 children and my youngest aunt is not married, so my mom loves people as if they were her kin.

In my eyes, mom is the greatest woman ever. She is independent. She makes decisions for the family. She lives emotionally and cooks delicious dishes.

H’Hen Nie at home. Buon Ma Thuot Province. Vietnam. 2019

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INTERVIEW

H’Hen Nie with kids in her home village; Searching for the water sources; An elder is sharing the needs and obstacles with H’ Hen Nie at her home village.

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Mom’s sister is also a resilient woman. My other aunt, my father’s sister taught me how to read. My grandpa on my father’s side taught me that I could do everything others could. He and I used to love watching volleyball matches on TV, and he told me one day I would play just as well. He instilled in me the will power to do exceptional things.

Are those days’ H’Hen and H’Hen today opposite images?

Yes and no. The women around me are tough, and therefore I have to be so too.

As a child I used to be sad, felt self pity, and talked to myself or to the trees and animals. I think other Ede girls are not like that. Looking back now, I find myself a little strange indeed. I had those monologues so often.

I remember an instance when I talked to myself while scrubbing the floor and watching TV, and when my dad called, I answered in Vietnamese instead of in Ede as I normally would..

As I went to work in the terrace fields, I talked to the grass and trees. That makes sense to me even now. Sometimes I think we the humans are so blessed by the nature and if we respect it, nature will be a source of positive energy for us.

Those monologues helped make me stronger. These days, I have less of those because the apartment is so private, almost hermetic. Since becoming a top beauty, I am having more stress. I don’t like talking to people about the hardship of my life, or to my mom about my problems. I chose to act like in the movies, talking to myself, playing two parts and find solutions by myself.

Can you share more about the time you left the village to pursue a career of a teacher instead of getting married like most of other Ede girls?

In 2010 I left Buon Ma Thuot with my grandpa’s suitcase. I don’t remember what I put in there. Some clothes, a few books, and the money my mom gave me, perhaps.

Blankets and pillows could be bought anywhere. I didn’t think much, just felt happy. Going far away on a bus was also a dream of mine for so long.

I chose to study Business Finances. As a child, I used to follow my dad to the banks to do transactions, and saw the bank female employees in uniforms. I was dazzled like never before. Later, when some students that studied economics came to my village to do volunteer work, I asked them questions.

In my village, we knew about the professions of doctors, policemen, teachers etc. but banking was unheard of and scary. However, to me it was simply a field of study to satisfy my desire to learn.. It gave me an opportunity. I must listen and learn to catch the opportunity that came my way to have space and motivation to strive and to grow up.

INTERVIEW What gave you the spiritual strength to go all the way up to the Top 5 Miss Universe 2018?

Coming to Saigon gave me a great opportunity to see the world.

Going up the stairs from Next Top to Vietnam Miss Universe to Miss Universe, without counting certain new skills I would remain the same optimistic girl ready to face new challenges to satisfy my own curiosity and to reach out to happiness with all my potential and resources.

However, the phase of Miss Universe was quite different. The pressure was enormous. I was competing not only for myself and my family, but for all of Vietnam too. Finally, I persuaded myself to think only that if I do well at this stage I will be able to help my family a lot.

Coming back from the Mis Universe contest in Thailand, I was filled with great admiration for their King Rama IX who had just passed away. He invested a lot in agricultural projects to help the Thai farmers and to change the face of the countryside. I was deeply impressed by the images and stories of him inspecting the projects and talking to the farmers. I hope to be able to do the same things for my native land.

Spiritually I was completely overwhelmed by the air of Buddhism that the people of this country breathe. It turned my heart directly towards goodness and made me feel warmer inside.

What are your plans for your native land?

Currently, the water sources in my village are not clean anymore because the soil is full of chemical fertilizers and pesticides.

Life expectancy used to be very high but in recent years many people have died at a very young age. I don’t know if it was because of the pollution or not, but I join force with the local government to test the water and clean the water resources.

I also want to build a communal house to be a place for community activities and to hold artifacts of traditional culture of Ede people.

I will do whatever I can to improve the life of the children: building toilets, bringing tap water and creating conditions to make it convenient for the children to go to school and enjoy a better education.

If the youth today ask your advice about pursuing own dreams, what would it be?

I think the most important thing is, never stop learning. Everybody should update their own knowledge in various aspects to keep pace with the world and be ready for the future.. Furthermore, we need to think positively. When we are optimistic and think that the best is still ahead, we will achieve.

To Ede girls in particular, I would like to add, “Start dreaming early. Don’t be scared if your dreams are different, if they lead you to the big horizons far beyond our village. Be bold and daring to look for your own opportunity.”

Thank you for your sincere thoughts, H’Hen. Wish you success in fulfilling your Miss Universe missions and accomplishing your personal plans.

H’Hen Nie at home. Buon Ma Thuot Province. Vietnam. 2019

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TRAVEL

The “hunt” for clouds and fog in Moc Chau

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TEXT BY LÊ HÒA PHOTOS BY CAO KY NHAN

bout 200km from Hanoi, Moc Chau is a vast plateau, considered by many to be the most beautiful of the Northern highlands.

So beautiful is it that many visitors have dubbed it “the paradise on earth.” Perhaps it’s the permanent presence of blurring mist and fluffy clouds that makes Moc Chau so mesmerizing.

No visitor can escape the hypnotic power of the scene of rolling hills, forests, valleys and hamlets of ethnic minorities blurred in the mist or now disappearing now appearing from behind the clouds. The mist makes tea plantations and grazing grounds look as soft as silk. The clouds now hang around leisurely, now fill up the whole universe just to be dispersed a moment later by the winds. A tourist described it in on his Facebook page “surreal and otherworldly.”

The glamour of Moc Chau mist and clouds is also reflected in the words of a photographer who shared his experiences. The best place to take good pictures is at the highest vantage points looking down at other heaving rocky peaks. Then one has to wait for the moment when sun rays penetrate the clouds and gold plates the hill slopes.

Tan Lap Commune, about 10km

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from Moc Chau township, has the most beautiful tea-covered hills of Moc Chau, among which the best ones are named Heart, Heart 2 and Heart 3. Here visitors can contemplate tea plantations that form the heart shape and at the same time learn the way our ethnic minorities collect and process tea.

Na Ka Valley, about 16km from Moc Chau township, has the most beautiful plum plantation in the region. This area is called “the fairyland”, especially in the springtime when plum trees blossom. The valley is covered in an exquisite white velvet dress that flutter in the breeze.

Pa Phach, or Ba Phach, a hamlet

by National Highway 6, about 5km from Moc Chau township, is a habitat of Thai and H’Mong people. It is called the “paradise of crucifer flowers.” During the blossoming season from Nov to late Dec the whole area is blanketed in white, so pure that it is almost divine.

Pha Luong Peak, almost 2000m above sea level near 23 the Laos border, also called Bo Lung (meaning Big Mountain), is the “Rooftop of Moc Chau.” The majestic and solemn mountain revered by the local ethnic minorities is about 35km from the township of Moc Chau, through many places, perilous but no less scenic than other peaks.n

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Hanoi

Son La

HCM City

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At 1050m above sea level, Moc Chau plateau is part of Moc Chau District, Son La Province. The climate is temperate.

The area is culturally diverse because it is home to more than 10 ethnic groups.

From My Dinh bus terminal in Hanoi from 9am to 10pm there are many buses to Moc Chau township.

Ticket price is around 150,000VND/person. One can also hire a motorbike at the hotel to go to Moc Chau. At the town of Moc Chau there are many inns and hotels. Prices range between 200,000 – 1,000,000VND/room/night.

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TRAVEL

British divers explore Son Doong Cave TEXT BY SONG PHUOC & PHOTO PROVIDED BY OXALIS ADVENTURE TOURS

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TRAVEL

P

eople who admire the heroism of the British divers that risked their lives to rescue the young Thai boys from Tham Luang Cave will get the chance to follow another mission by the same heroes in Vietnam.

The famed divers Richard Stanton, John Volanthen, Jason Mallison and Chris Jewell are diving inside Son Doong Cave in Quang Binh Province to explore a mysterious passage found at the end of the cave.

In June last year, twelve young boys, members of the youth football team Wild Boars, together with their coach, entered Tham Luang cave network in Chiang Rai, Thailand and were trapped by rising flood water.

Richard Stanton and John Volanthen were the first divers who found the boys alive in July, a miraculous rescue mission in an extremely dangerous situation.

In Vietnam, the four dived to explore a passage connecting this cave with another cave nearby.

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The four worked with caving expert, Martin Holroyd, who works as a safety guide in tour expeditions run by Oxalis Adventure Tours, the sole tour provider into Son Doong. Cavers from the British Cave Research Association suspected that Thung Cave, a grotto 600m from the end of Son Doong, connects Son Doong through the passage. Thung Cave, explored in 1994, is 3.3km long and it has a large river running inside, just like Son Doong.

In 2010, during the thorough survey conducted by members of the British association, the cavers found out that water from the river running inside Son Doong goes through a gate at the end of the giant cave.

At that time, the British caving team believed Son Doong and Thung caves connected through the passage, as the river inside Son Doong was found coming in a straight line from the end of Thung.

According to Howard Limbert, who was a member of the 2010 team and is

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caving technical director of Oxalis, it took the team members eight years to identify where the current inside the passage led and they finally decided diving into the passage would be the only way to have the answer.

Limbert estimated the diving mission would be tough, as a large water volume from the Son Doong River pouring into the passage would make the current extremely strong.

Oxalis worked with the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park to organise the mission and the company sponsored US$53,000 for all the mission expenses.

Oxalis described the diving mission’s members as the best divers in the world but Limbert cautioned that the job would be extremely risky.

The mission commenced on April 1, when the experts believed that the Son Doong River was in ideal conditions for diving. Water level inside the passage in

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April was 40m deep. Oxalis’ boss Nguyen Chau A said he expected the passage would prove to be the connector between Son Doong and Thung caves. If the two caves were one, Son Doong’s overall volume would be over 40.4 million cubic metres. The ‘expanded’ Son Doong would be bigger in volume compared to the Clearwater Cave.

Clearwater Cave is part of the Grunung Mulu National Park, which is located in Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo. Clearwater is 39.5 million cubic metres in volume. Son Doong is 9km or 5.6 miles long, and with the 67.2m passage, the cave’s overall volume is 38.8 million cubic metres. Thung Cave is 3.3km or 2 miles and with a 22m estimated passage, it has overall volume of 1.6 million cubic metres. Prior to the April mission, the duration of the task had not been known Oxalis also organised a task force, including porters and supporters familiar with caving inside Son Doong as

well as trekking in the forest. The team members were trained by experts from the British association and have worked in the job for over a decade.

They carry oxygen tanks, compressors, and camping equipment as well as supporting the mission team members until reaching the passage’s entrance.

Oxalis had strict guidelines to ensure the ecosystem inside the cave would be well-protected, but they welcomed partners eligible for documenting and reporting the incredible mission.

Oxalis also expected the mission’s outcomes would contribute positively to science and the study of karst caves. According to the company, the national flag carrier Vietnam Airlines offered the four British divers free flights to Quang Binh Province, where Son Doong is located.

Members of British Cave Research Association have spent almost 30 years exploring caves in the province. They

discovered more than 300 dry caves and caves with subterranean rivers. This was the first time the British cavers and divers exploring an underground watery passage.

Over three decades, the British cavers surveyed and announced systems of karst caves in Quang Binh. The Phong Nha system includes Son Doong, Thung, Phong Nha, Va, and Nuoc Nut caves. The Vom system comprises the caves of Vom and Thien Duong (Paradise). The Nuoc Mooc has caves with water pouring into Mooc stream. The Tu Lan system has Tu Lan, a group of caves and Tien Cave.

Remarkably, the British cavers paid all related expense for the 30-year survey by themselves. Howard Limbert and his partners consider Quang Binh, Vietnam their second home and they have contributed much for Oxalis to exploit Son Doong, Tu Lan and other caves for tourism in a sustainable and eco-friendly way.n

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ARCHITECTURE

Ancient port with hundreds of relic sites

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TEXT AND PHOTOS BY PHUONG THANH - ANH NGAN

The Gate of Temple of Sacred Mother, Bai Say road, Hung Yen City, 2018

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y the mid-17th century, Hien Township was bustling with the trade of silk, tussore, chiffon, velvet, gold, silver, bronze etc.

Traders came here from Asian and European countries such as England, France, Holland, Japan and China.

The level of development of Hien was comparable with that of Thang Long, the capital, as was related in the saying, ‘First the capital, then come streets of Hien.’

Sitting on the big Red River, convenient for both river and marine transportation, Hien has attracted merchants from all over the world.

By late 19th Century, King Gia Long moved the Hien international port to another location. Since then, has Hien gradually changed.

Today, the ancient 20.151 km2 town of Hien stands at the center of Hung Yen City, Hung Yen Province, about 55km from Hanoi.Having undergone turbulent times and destructive wars, Hien township has managed to preserve hundreds of valuable historical and cultural relics, including 18 architectural sites recognized as national historical and cultural heritage.

Most of the ancient relic sites are located within the space of 5km2 that belongs to Dang Chau Village (Lam Son Ward) and Ne Chau Village (Hong Chau Ward).

One of the most famous sites at Hien is the Xich Dang Temple of Literature, aka Hung Yen Temple of Literature, which was built in the 17th century to worship Confucius and Vietnam’s most scholarly distinguished historical figures and to promote knowledge and scholastic traditions of

ARCHITECTURE

Hanoi

Hung Yen

HCM City

Arhat statues at Chuong (Bell) pagoda, Nhan Zuc village, Hung Yen City, 2018

Hung Yen. Today, Xich Dang Temple of Literature still preserves valuable relics such as nine stone steles that record the names and merits of ancient Hung Yen scholars, a bronze bell (1804), and a stone gong (1803).

To locals and visitors, the most attractive site of Hien, however, is the Chuong Pagoda, or the Pagoda of the Golden Bell, built during the Le Dynasty and famous for the legend about the golden bell. Chuong Pagoda still preserves many ancient artifacts, most notably the ‘Ten Edifice Underworld King’, depicting the punishments people will have to endure in the afterlife, and the 18 statues of the Arahants with all the facial expressions of mundane life.

The inhabitants of Hien have preserved not only the tangible, but also the intangible cultural values of the ancient town, which are vividly displayed during the Sequence of Folk Culture Festivals of Hien that takes place in the 3rd lunar month every year. Dedicated to honoring Buddha, deities and great historical figures of Hung Yen, this Sequence of Festivals attracts tens of thousands of locals and tourists.

The Sequence of Festivals of Hien, soaked in Hung Yen local culture, has many sacred spiritual ceremonies as well as folk games and fun activities such as flying lamps, boat races, cock fights and tug of war... These lively activities make it easier for people to imagine what life was like in the past heydays of Hien township. n

Temple of Literature of Hung Yen province at Xich Dang village, Hung Yen City, 2018 APRIL-MAY 2019

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5:3 JUNE 2013

4:3 MA MAY AY 2013 2

CULTURAL CUL LTTURAL HERITAGE HERITTA AGE ASSOCIATION ASSOCIATION OF VIETNAM

ISSN 1859-4123

ISSN 1859-4123

CULTURAL CUL LTTURAL HERITAGE HERITTA AGE ASSOCIA ASSOCIATION TION OF VIETNAM

When making love love w was as exalted exalted p.8

Muddy tradition

wrestles its way back to Van Village

VIETNAM HERITAGE MAGAZINE 4th Floor, 1/1 Hoang Viet Street, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Ho Chi Minh City, Viet Nam Tel: (84-28) 38118846 ; Fax: (84-28) 38118775 Email: vnheritagemagazine@gmail.com www.vietnamheritage.com.vn Vietnam Heritage

Vietnam Heritage

ART/BOOKS

New book rescues classic folk paintings from obscurity

“W

e have the pleasure of presenting to you the new book “The Strain of Kim Hoang Folk Paintings.” This is one of the famous folk painting strains of our country, which has almost disappeared had there not been timely efforts to restore and promote it. In recent years, we have formed a project named “Restoration of Kim Hoang Folk Painting” which was an initiative of the director of the museum of Vietnamese ceramics and porcelain. The project attracted many artisans, collectors of Vietnamese folk paintings, artists, experts of culture and history of arts, and photographers.

We have made a step-by-step effort to approach the native land of this folk art strain, namely the Kim Hoang Village, Van Canh Commune, Hoai Duc District of Hanoi, talking to the few elders who saw firsthand the making and selling of the paintings. They told their stories, helped assess the authenticity of colors, painting techniques, and distribution channels of Kim Hoang paintings in country bazaars west of Hanoi etc. Finally we have succeeded

in restoring the image of the trade village in its golden age.

The Vietnam Museum of Arts currently has a painting of two roosters, called the Divine Roosters, and the painting of swine from Kim Hoang. The village itself still preserves the big paintings “Duc Luu Quang” and “Phuc Man Duong” and some others.

But Kim Hoang seems to have failed to keep those of its products once famously dubbed the “red paintings of Kim Hoang.”

Fortunately, many Kim Hoang paintings have been studied and publicized by a French scholar named Maurice Durand in a book titled “Vietnam Folk Painting”, published in 1960. In his work, he combined all folk painting strains of Vietnam into one, which includes Dong Ho, Hang Trong and Kim Hoang as well. We have managed to sieve out the Kim Hoang paintings from his book to preliminarily define the unique characteristics of Kim Hoang strain with the help of the village elders and many artists.

To date, we have achieved many great results in this initial stage, enough to be compiled into this book “The Strain of Kim Hoang folk Paintings.”

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ART/BOOKS

To begin with, we would like to express our deepest gratitude to Mr. Maurice Durand, the artist and the scholar who has passed away, for the invaluable work “Vietnam Folk Painting” he left for us. Not only did he love Vietnam and carry some Vietnamese blood in his veins, but he also spent much time and effort to study Vietnamese paintings including those from Kim Hoang. The book he published is a true research work, which includes the most typical paintings that have the highest aesthetical value and contain many spiritual values of Vietnamese people.

To continue his life work, his son Mr. Marcus Durand in collaboration with French and Vietnamese experts, corrected the enormous amount of material he left,

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reprinted this famous work of his in France, translated and published it in Vietnam in 2017, beautifully in color. It was the work of the Durand father and son that gave us the initial idea and motivation to go deep into the study of Kim Hoang folk art, which remained known only in a very few places. Durand’s book was one of those places. With that we started looking for Kim Hoang paintings, defined the unique Kim Hoang characteristics, determined the colors that made up the “strain of Kim Hoang red paintings”, the lay-out, the Chinese characters in the annotation, etc.

From there, we began working on restoring this precious strain of folk art. The French have loved Vietnamese folk art so much, how could the Vietnamese let the Kim

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Hoang strain of painting sink into oblivion without trying to revive it and give it the place it deserves in the artistic heritage of our country?

In Chapter 1, we describe in great details the village of Kim Hoang, the cradle of this strain of folk painting. This is a typical ancient Vietnamese village west of Hanoi, with its village temple built in 1704, adorned with typical carving of the Prosperity Age of the Le Dynasty. These carvings in the temple, close in theme to the paintings, hinted to us about the age of this strain of paintings, which may be a little earlier than the beginning of 18th century. The village still preserves many old customs as described in the village conventions, a written document that defines

ART/BOOKS Vietnam Heritage had an interview with Le Bich the photographer of the Dong Tranh Dan Gian Kim Hoang ( The Strain of Kim Hoang Folk Painting)

clans and fractions as structural elements, and the administrative body.

Kim Hoang Village has six outstanding scholars named in the golden list. This fact is also uniquely reflected in the paintings by the annotation in Chinese characters.

The village is so interesting in many aspects. Therefore, this work is not only about the folk paintings, but it has also scholarly values pertaining to folk literature, ethnography, history and culture study etc.

In the second chapter, we go deep into the topic of restoring this strain of folk painting based on exploring ground zero, referencing various documents, analyzing and listing Kim Hoang paintings from M. Durand’s book, describing the method used to select those paintings from among the others in a document titled “Determining Kim Hoang paintings from M. Durand’s book, the 2017 color edition.” As a result, we sieved out 93 paintings from the book. These paintings have been authenticated by Kim Hoang village elders and discussed thoroughly by artists and art critics. We

began studying in depth various aspects of the making of Kim Hoang paintings in hope of restoring the painting trade in the region. We tried to assess the cultural and artistic values of this strain of paintings, blowing oxygen to help make it viable and adaptable to the modern, contemporary life.

In the third and final chapter, we deal mostly with the technical and artistic aspects as well as the content of Kim Hoang paintings, hoping to find the unique features of this strain as compared to the famous Dong Ho and Hang Trong paintings. Kim Hoang paintings have their own peculiarities, uniquely serving a part of the society, namely the peasants in the west of Hanoi. It served well its market, especially during the period of New Year.

Our ambition is to continue the study and publishing of folk paintings, not only of this strain, but also of other strains such as Dong Ho, Hang Trong, Lang Sinh etc. We hope to have many more releases in the future on the invaluable tangible cultural heritage of our ancestors”.

From the speech at the launching of the book in February 2019 by three co-authors Nguyen Thi Thu Hoa, Director of Museum of Ceramics of Hanoi, Prof. Trinh Sinh and Photographer Le Bich.

Cover Price: VND 370.000 World Publishing House 6 Tran Hung Dao Str, Hanoi

How did you join this project? Please share your best impressions and memories doing this photo project.

A photographer specialized in traditional trade villages of Vietnam, I was invited by the manager of the Kim Hoang painting restoration project.

Being one of the first people who joined the project to take documentary pictures and videos, I understood the village and the villagers of Kim Hoang. I know how hard it is to restore the trade of the past that’s been long discontinued. Kim Hoang is an ancient village that has centuries-old traditions. Situated in a suburban area, it is being very quickly urbanized and the traditional values are at risk Nevertheless, many individuals and groups in the village are keen to preserve invaluable ancestral heritage. They contribute to protect the temples and pagodas, archive and translate conferment decrees, keep on conducting yearly village festivals, and teach village kids about the traditions etc. So when the project of restoring the Kim Hoang traditional painting trade was proposed it received enormous support of the locals.

I attended the Kim Hoang festival and rituals and learned about many beautiful local customs. The Kim Hoang village temple is quite beautiful, with unique lively carvings. The Dai Bi pagoda in the village is also very picturesque. Remarkably, the head monk here is so kind to shelter and educate many orphaned kids. The elders can tell you great stories about the old trade.

How do you grade the book, as the print is complete?

To me the book “The Strain of Kim Hoang Folk Painting” has the following values: 1. It reintroduces the strain of Kim Hoang folk painting, forgotten since the 40s.

2. It lets generations of Kim Hoang villagers once again understand and be proud of their village and ancestral legacy (the book tells also about the history of the village and the region.)

3. It contains valuable, real materials for those in the field of cultural heritage restoration in general and folk painting restoration in particular.

4. It is a rich source of reference material for those who want to study Vietnamese folk painting, most notably the photographic material, including 353 photographs about the village, the painting trade, and the people who conducted the project and made it a success.

Thank you.

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Hue City creates festive time for craft products ahead May Day TEXT AND PHOTOS BY HA NGUYEN

he former imperial capital city of Hue will hold a festival to honour Vietnamese craftsmanship during the holidays of Vietnam’s Reunification Day and May Day. This year’s Hue Craft Village Festival takes place from April 26 to the 2nd of May, featuring craft performances, craft product exhibition, parades and honouring and entertaining events. About 3,000 artisans and workers representing 63 craft villages and workshops around the country participated in the biennial festival.

The event is also to foster co-operation in craft production and trade between Vietnamese villages as well as craft artisans from other countries. They will present major crafts from the country including knitting of mats, paper paintings, lantern making, paper flowers, glass paintings, bronze casting, kite making, embroidery, and traditional weaving.

The five-day festival will attract the participation of craft presenters from Asian countries that are well-known for their craftsmanship, including Japan and South Korea. They are artisans and craft producers of Hanji paper, Hanbok costumes, Yugi bronzeware, and Japanese traditional paper, pottery and woodern items.

The biennial craft event thus has been appraised for the fostering of friendship and cooperation between the city of Hue and others globally. This year’s festival was the eighth one of its type organised in the city.

The first was held in 2005 and the following continued after two years.

The festival will showcase more than 2,000 products made of bamboo, clay, wood, metals, rattan and ceramic for daily use needs, furnituring, cooking use, wearing or ornamental purposes.

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Those craft items are put on display in stalls named Lotus ambiance, Silk area, Ao dai space, Herbal medicine corner, Calligrahy, lantern and kite square, Cell for Japanese and Korean craft, and Hall for honouring artisans and craft villages. Visitors to the festival will also get chance to taste different kinds of food served at a gastronomy fair.

The festival offers the added feature of instant training sessions by skilful and experienced artisans for those interested in learning to make the craft items.

This year’s festival will adopt a traditional type of fabric made by K’ho and Chau Ma, the two ethnic minorities living in the Central Highlands, as one of the prominent craft products to showcase.

The fabric is woven and painted by local natural materials. Colours on the fabric are said to resist fading and be safe to wash with other clothes, The fabric is popular for home and costume products, such as blankets, dresses, ethnic-style skirts, handbags, and decoration items. The fabric is part of the soul and sentiment of K’ho and Chau Ma women.

This eighth version of the festival will also manage to bring its audiences the beverage recipes owned by royal family of the Nguyen Dynasty (1802-1945). Tea and wine served the kings during the mornachic time were a special treat with herbal materials added.

Tea and wine prepared for kings and other royal family members were well prepared by a monarchic agency specialising in beverage and they were checked for benefits and side effects before being used by another royal agency, which gathered the top herbal physicians in the country. The materials were all organic and fresh and used for the remedy of popular health is-

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sues, including stomach ache and insomnia. Others were added to counter bacteria, lower cholesterol, fight cancer, reduce internal heat, produce liver coolant, as well as lower blood pressure.

The recipes later spread, following the experts and physicians that returned home after the reign ended in 1945. Today, several recipes have been restored successfully in products to serve modern needs.

This year’s festival is also highlighted by staged events, with an ao dai show and a hot air balloon fiesta.

Ao dai, the Vietnamese national costume, retains its appeal despite the strong influence of modern fashion styles. The costume holds a firm place in soul of almost every Vietnamese and thus ao dai show is always fascinating to audiences. In the last festival held in 2017, leading fashion designers across the country gathered in the city and offered audiences a wonderful ao dai show by copying the prominent paintings

by Hue native artists and printing on the costume’s flaps.

The theme of this year has not been revealed prior to the show, but the stage will be the citadel’s Ngo Mon Square. It is expected to highlight the heyday of ao dai, as recently, the local government has attempted to encourage more locals to wear this costume every day. Hue researchers proved that the royal city is the birthplace of ao dai.

This is the third time the festival had a hot air balloon fiesta. The gathering of a number of colourful balloons from Vietnam, Netherlands, South Korea, Japan, Malaysia and Thailand is expected to attract large crowds. Audiences will get chance to have flights on the balloons at heighta of 100m to 300m within a 4km radius to look the citadel of Hue. n

KEY SHOWS: Grand Opening ceremony Openning of Craft spaces Openning Guest Craft Space (S Korean & Japan) Music performance by S Korean artists Event: Flowers of Craft villages Ao dai show Gastronomy fair Openning of Hot air balloon fiesta Ritual ceremony for craft ancestors Vietnamese music performance Ceremony honouring artisans

8:30pm April 26 2:30pm April 26 3:30pm April 26 8:00pm April 27 9:00am April 27 8:00pm April 28 April 26-May 2 6:00am April 27 4:00pm April 29 8:00pm April 30 8:00pm May 1

Quoc Hoc Stele’s stage Tu Tuong Park Hue Culture Museum Quoc Hoc Stele’s stage Area surrounding the Hue Culture Museum Ngo Mon Square Thuong Bac Park Ham Nghi Square Tu Tuong Park Quoc Hoc Stele’s stage Quoc Hoc Stele’s stage

COMMUNITY PROGRAMMES: Herbal medicine corner ‘Three Regions’ food court Exhibition of Heroic Mothers’ portraits ‘Childhood Colour’ Festival Photo exhibition: Quitessences of Craftsmanship Stamp exhibition Street music Kite flying festival Calligraphy exhibition Human chess competition Exhibition: Craft items used in royal life Exhibition: Hue’s jewelry Exhibition: Truc Chi- Paper of Art

April 25-May 2 April 26-May 2 April 25-May 15 April 25-May 1 April 25-May 2 April 25-May 2 April 26-April 28 April 26-May 2 April 26-May 1 4:00pm, April 28-April 30 April 5-May 30 April 26-May 2 April 26-May 2

Lieu Quan Buddhism Centre 3/2 Park HCM Museum Hue House of Children Phan Boi Chau Park 4 Hoang Hoa Tham Str. Backpacker corner Phan Boi Chau Park / Phu Van Lau Park Phan Boi Chau Park Thuong Bac Park Hue Museum of Royal Antiquities 278 Dinh Tien Hoang Str. 5 Thach Han Str.

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VESAK 2019

EVENTS

A great spiritual festivity amid majestic scenery

“The 2019 UN Days of Vesak will take place from 5th to 19th of May 2019 at the Tam Chuc Buddhist Culture Center, Ba Sao Commune, Kim Bang District of Ha Nam Province,” the Vietnam Buddhist Association announced.

Visitors to the 3rd Vesak organized in Vietnam will not only see the largest pagoda of the world amidst some majestic and poetic scenery, but also take part in many festive activities typical of Vietnam Buddhist Culture.

Vesak celebration has been recognized since 1999 by the United Nations the world’s biggest religious cultural festival. Since then, this yearly event has been organized on a global scale in many countries where a major part of the population is Buddhist.

The main topic of the 2019 Vesak celebration is a Buddhist approach to global leadership and shared responsibility for a sustainable society.

It is expected that the Grand Celebration will have over 10,000 attendees, among whom there will be about 1500 leaders of Buddhist Associations and Buddhist theologians from about 100 countries and territories.

The top monks of the Vietnam Buddhist Association regard this year’s Vesak as an occasion for Buddhist leaders of the world to meet and exchange ideas, a forum to spread the words of Buddha about peace, harmony, progress and development and to promote the role of Vietnamese Buddhists in the global community.

The Great Vesak venue this year is the Tam Chuc Buddhist Culture Center, a complex of Buddhist architectural structures considered the largest in the world. This architectural complex includes also a 600ha lake with six small islets surrounded on three sides by solemn majestic mountains.

The whole complex of the Tam Chuc Buddhist Culture Center is enveloped by the Tam Chuc Tourist Zone with 5100ha of almost pristine forests and mountains.

The grand architectural edifices at the Tam Chuc Buddhist Culture Center include the Gem Pagoda, the Sequence of Incarnations Temple, the Dharma Temple, the Temple of Avalokiteśvara Bodhisattva, the Triple Gates, the Auditorium, etc. all containing intricate statues and decorations, most notably the 12,000 stone images depicting episodes of Buddha’s enlightenment process.

The most important ceremonies in this year’s Great Vesak include the Buddhist message from the UN General Secretary, the message from the Head of Vietnam Buddhist Association, and the lecture of the Central Bureau of Propagation of Faith on the significance of Vesak, The festive part includes a culture and vegetarian food fair, parade of flower vehicles decorated in Buddhist themes, release of flower garlands and colored lanterns in the river, exhibition of Buddhist relics, artistic performances on Budhist themes.

The spiritual and festive air are felt not only at the Tam Chuc Buddhist Culture Center, but all over Vietnam, as reported in the Communiqué of the Vietnam Buddhist Association: “The provincial and city executive committees of theVietnam Buddhist Association have prepared for the local celebration of Vesak. During the Celebration all the province and district headquarter of the Vietnam Buddhist Association set up their local Lumbini Gardens, hang Buddhist flags, flower garlands, lanterns and bilingual banners in Vietnames and English to salute the Vesak.”

The celebration of the two previous Great Vesak also show the spiritual and festive air of Buddhist Culture all over Vietnam. Pagodas and many Buddhist households were decorated meticulously and beautifully on Buddhist themes with flowers and lanterns.

Da Nang Firework Festival 2019

Da Nang International Firework Festival (DIFF) 2019 under the theme “Rivers’ Stories” will take place over five evenings with the participation of Vietnamese, Russian, Brazilian, Belgian, Finish, Italian, British and Chinese teams. The spectator stands will be on Tran Hung Dao Street between the River Han’s Rotating Bridge and Thuan Phuoc Bridge, supporting 21,000 seats to service

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104,000 spectators during the 5 evenings. The organizers plan to add a B6 stand to have 1,600 additional seats each night.

Beside the Firework Festival, Da Nang will host other events such as the biggest ever street festival under the theme “Da Nang – the City of Bridges”, Food and Beverage Fair “Flavors of four seasons”, and an Air Balloon Festival, etc.

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Venue: Da Nang, downtown Time: Jun 1 to Jun 7, 2019 Ticket prices: B4 stand - 300,000 VND B3 stand - 400,000 VND B2 and B1 stands - 600,000 VND A2 and A3 stands - 800,000 VND A1 and A stands – 1,000,000 VND For details see: https:// phaohoaquoctedanang.com/

WHAT THE PAPERS SAY

Hanoi chokes on polluted air Vietnam News March 27

Air quality in Hà Nội today was poor, with the somber sky covered in a fog-like sheen. The city’s air quality index was recorded at between 138 and 185 in the morning. Anything above 150 is considered unhealthy for everyone.

According to environmental experts, the problem was exacerbated by current air temperature conditions. Normally, higher layers of air in the atmosphere have a lower temperature, but on some winter days, higher layers have higher temperatures.

This phenomenon created a misty and oppressive atmosphere. The conditions were expected to last for two or three more days. It is undeniable that the phenomenon was part of the spreading air pollution in the capital city.

pital, Vietnam is in the world’s top 30 countries with high TB rates. The country ranks 16th in the number of TB patients and 13th in the rankings of drug-resistant TB patients. Seventy per cent are of working age of between 15 and 55.

The country has been working hard to take practical measures to reduce fatalities and prevent TB in the community. It hopes to end the disease by 2030.

Con Dao declared one of best islands in the world Vietnam News April 5

Vietnam in urgent need of legislation to prevent child sex abuse Vietnam News March 25

Con Dao Island has been included on a Vogue magazin’s list of the nine best paradise islands in the world to escape to this year.

Con Dao is an archipelago of 16 islands, each one more beautiful than the last. Preserving the pure nature of the islands, there are only a few hotels. Another asset that this archipelago offers is its national park with an intact ecosystem.

Con Dao has pristine beauty, mostly unspoiled beaches, forests and turquoise waters, and a strictly protected national park. Between March and September is the best time to visit the island, as it has little rain and the sea is calmer.

VN on the way to end TB by 2030 Vietnam News March 25

Around 12,000 people die from tuberculosis each year in Vietnam - that’s one and half times higher than those killed in traffic accidents over the same period.

According to the National Lung Hos-

Vietnam still lacks mechanisms to prevent the abuse of children in various forms and to support child victims.

The Vietnam Association for Protection of Children’s Rights noted that families need to make children aware of their rights.They must also prevent and handle violence and sexual abuse of children.

The association recommended providing books on children’s rights and measures to protect children to school libraries and tightening supervision at a grassroots level. It also urged building child-friendly procedures to encourage families and children to report incidents to authorities.

Saigon more expensive to live in than Hanoi VNExpress English April 4

According to the Spatial Cost of Living Index compiled by the General Statistics I VIETNAM HERITAGE • Office, Saigon was approximately 1.5 percent more expensive to live in than Hanoi in 2018.

Following Saigon and Hanoi is the central city of Danang, which is about 2.2 percent cheaper to live in than the capital city. The Mekong Delta province of Hau Giang in the south is the cheapest place to live in Vietnam, with its cost of living 9.5 percent cheaper than that Hanoi.

A noticeable jump in position was observed in the central province of Thua Thien Hue, home to the former citadel city of Hue. It was ranked the 4th most expensive place to live in 2018, up from 13th rank in 2017.

HCMC becoming drug transit hub VNExpress English March 30

HCMC is growing into a transit point for drugs thanks to its logistics infrastructure, according to local police.

In all cases the drugs originate from the Golden Triangle, and in two cases they were on the way from HCMC to Taiwan and the Philippines.

On March 20, a raid by hundreds of police officers and border guards netted a pickup truck with around 300 kilograms (661 pounds) of meth.

HCM City to launch first human milk bank Tuoi Tre News April 2

The Neonatal Department at Tu Du Maternity Hospital in HCM City is set to launch the city’s first international standard human milk bank next week as a solution to a shortage of biological milk for premature newborns.

The human milk bank is a service for those who wish to share their breast milk with others donating the milk for vulnerable infants, orphans or nursing mothers.

On average, Tu Du Maternity Hospital delivers and provides medical treatment for about 6,000-7,000 babies born with low birth weight every year, but only 30 percent of the newborns with illnesses can be breastfed by their mothers.

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DIRECTIONS

HALONG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 033)

Chi Minh declared Vietnam’s independence in September 1945, is a complex of historic sites.

Syrena Cruises

Hung Thang new urban area, Bai Chay, Halong. Tel: (033) 3847-043 Hanoi Sales Office: Syrena Tower, 3th Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-7214 Email: se@syrenacruises.com www.syrenacruises.com

Lapaz Hotel & Resort

Tuan Chau Island, Halong Tel: (033) 3842-999 www.holidayvillahalongbay.com

Vinpearl Halong

Cot Co Tower

28 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi Cot Co Tower, the so-called Flag Tower, is now part of the Vietnam Military History Museum complex. The Tower was built in 1950, under the Nguyen Dynasty, with the help of French engineers. The tower has 36 flower-shaped windows. At the top of the tower flies the flag of Vietnam.

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 3733-2131 www.vnfineartsmuseum.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Entry fee VND20,000 ($0.95)

Hanoi Opera House

Vietnam Military History

1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi Designed by a French architect along the lines of the Paris Opera House, it is embellished with wonderful Gothic statuary. For many decades, Hanoi Opera House has been a centre for theatre, traditional music and dance, symphonies, traditional and classical music. This, the largest theatre in Vietnam, was completed in 1911.

Hoa Lo Prison

‘La Maison Centrale’, the prison on Hoa Lo Street in Hanoi, was built by the French in 1896 and became the place where generations of Vietnamese freedom fighters were held.

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St Joseph’s Cathedral

Reu Island, Bai Chay, Ha Long, Viet Nam. Tel: (033) 3556-868 www.vinpearl.com

HAI PHONG CITY Avani Hai Phong Harbour View 12 Tran Phu St, Ngo Quyen Dist., Hai Phong.

Tel: (031) 3827-827 www.avanihotels.com

Hanoi Museum

2 Pham Hung (next to Vietnam National Convention Centre), Me Tri Commune, Tu Liem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 6287-06 04 Opening hour: 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Free entrance

TRAVEL

Emeraude Classic Cruises

46 Le Thai To St, Hanoi Tel: (024) 3935-1888 www.emeraude-cruises.com

19 Ngoc Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 3846-3752 www.baotanghochiminh.vn Open: 8 a.m. to noon (Monday and Friday), 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (other days) Entry fee: VND25,000

3rd Floor, 66A Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 3828-2150 www.exotissimo.com

Imperial Citadel of Thang Long

Topas Travel

12 Nguyen Tri Phuong St/ 9 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 37345427 www.hoangthanhthanhlong.vn Open: 8.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. (Closed on Mondays) Entry fee: VND30,000

52 To Ngoc Van St, Hanoi Tel: (024) 3715-1005 www.topastravel.vn SIGHTSEEINGS

Ba Dinh Square

36A Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi.

Ba Dinh Square, where President Ho HERITAGE

Vietnam Fine Arts Museum

Museum 28A Dien Bien Phu St, Hanoi www.btlsqsvn.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 4.30 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)

Vietnam Museum of Ethnology

Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 3756-2193, www.vme.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND40,000 ($2)

Women’s Museum

36 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hanoi Tel: (024) 3825-9936 www.womenmuseum.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) TRAVEL

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Vietnam National Museum

of History 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. 25 Tong Dan St, Hanoi.

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Hue Riverside Boutique

Resort & Spa 588 Bui Thi Xuan St, Thuy Bieu Dist., Hue. Tel: (0234) 3978-484 www.hueriversideresort.com

Imperial Hotel

8 Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3882-222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn

Indochine Palace Hotel

105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3936-666 www.indochinepalace.com The hotel is surrounded by lush green gardens that make it an outstanding landmark in Hue and give the city the feel of a resort. This luxurious, international standard hotel is created to appeal to Vietnamese and international visitors to Hue.

La Residence Hotel & Spa

5 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3837-475 Email: resa@la-residence-hue.com www.la-residence-hue.com Step back in time to Art Deco's golden age with a stay at La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa, MGallery by Sofitel. Nestled along the fabled Perfume River overlooking the former Imperial Citadel, La Residence is a one-of-a-kind masterpiece with luxurious cultural and culinary experiences. This former governor's residence with 122 guestrooms and suites offers visitors a warm hospitality and a chance to relive the pleasures of a bygone era.

Lang Co Beach Resort

Oxalis Adventure Tours

Phong Nha Commune, Son Trach Village, Bo Trach Dist., Quang Binh Province. Tel: (0232)3677-678 www.oxalis.com.vn

HUE

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0234) HOTELS, RESORTS

Century Riverside Hotel Hue

Ho Chi Minh Museum

Exotissmo

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40 Nha Chung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Fresh missionaries built this cathedral in the late 19th century. The small but beautiful panes of stained glass were created in Paris in 1906. Also of note is the ornate altar, with its high gilded sidewalls.

MUSEUMS

HANOI

Tel: (024) 3824-1384 www.baotanglichsu.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.

Closed every first Monday of months. Entry fee VND40,000 ($1.82) for adults and VND10,000 ($0.48) for children

463 Lac Long Quan St., Lang Co Town, Phu Loc Dist, Thua Thien Hue Province Tel: (0234) 3873-555 www.langcobeachresort.com.vn

Hotel Saigon Morin

30 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234)3823-526 www.morinhotel.com.vn

DANANG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0236) 49 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3823-390 Email: res@centuryriversidehue.com www.centuryriversidehue.com Century Riverside Hotel Hue, with its 135 rooms, is located in a vast area of 20,000 square meters. It is surrounded by a garden full of fruit trees, various kinds of flowers and a green pasture.

Hue Century Riverside Hotel lies by the side of Truong Tien Bridge and the bank of the romantic Huong River.

Vinpearl Luxury Danang Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang. Tel: (0236) 3968-888 www.vinpearl.com

Danang Museum of Cham

Sculpture 2, 2 Thang 9 St, Danang Tel: (0236) 3572-935 www.chammuseum.danang.vn Open 7.15 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)

HOI AN

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0235) HOTELS, RESORTS

Anantara Hoi An Resort

DIRECTIONS MUSEUM

Quang Trung Museum

Block 1, Phu Phong town, Tay Son Dist., Binh Dinh Province. Tel: (056) 3580-320 Open 7 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Entry fee VND10,500 ($0.50).

Free for children under six

NHA TRANG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0258) 1 Pham Hong Thai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province. Tel: (0235) 3914-555 Email: sales_ha@anantara.com www.hoi-an.anantara.com

Aurora Riverside Hotel & Villas

242 Cua Dai St, Hoi An City, Quang Nam Province. Tel: (0235) 3924-111 www.aurorahoian.com

HOTELS, RESORTS

MUSEUM

Alexandre Yersin Museum

Pasteur Institute, 10 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (0258) 3822-406

PHAN THIET

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0252) HOTELS, RESORTS

10B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Tel: (0235) 3862-367 www.hoianheritage.net Open daily 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Resort & Spa 304, 2/4 St, Vinh Phuoc, Nha Trang Tel: (0258) 3568-888 Email: sales@champaislandresort.vn www.champaisandresort.vn With architecture reflecting nearby Po Nagar temple, Champa Island Nha Trang offers exquisite cuisine and many entertainment services that promise a memorable stay in Nha Trang

Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa

12A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (84252) 3741-888 www.anantara.com/en/muine

Bai Dai, Ghenh Rang, Quy Nhon City, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (0256) 384 0077 Email: quynhon.villas@anantara.com www.anantara.com/en/quy-nhon

Km 11 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (0252) 3847-507 reservation@seahorseresortvn.com www.seahorseresortvn.com MUSEUM

Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa

Song Mao intersection, Phan Hiep Commune, Bac Binh Dist., Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (0252) 3641-456.

Open: 7.30 a.m. to 11 a.m. / 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday. Free entrance

Northern Peninsula Cam Ranh, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (0258) 3989-898 Email: info@rivieraresortspa.com www.rivieraresortspa.com KN Golf Links

38 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province.

Tel: (0252) 3847-007 www.bamboovillageresortvn.com

DALAT

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0263) HOTELS

Ana MandaraVillas Dalat Resort & Spa

Blue Bay Muine Resort & Spa Suoi Nuoc, Muine, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province.

Tel: (0252) 3836-888 Email: info@bluebaymuineresort.com www.bluebaymuineresort.com

QUY NHON

Anantara Quy Nhon Villas

Quarter 14, Mui Ne Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (0252) 2220-222 Email: info@muinebayresort.com www.muinebayresort.com

Cham Culture Exhibition Centre

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0256) AVANI Quy Nhon Resort & Spa Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (0256) 3840-132 www.avanihotels.com/quynhon

Muine Bay Resort

Champa Island Nha Trang

Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0235) 3927-927 Email: info@pgr.com.vn www.palmgardenresort.com.vn

Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation

6 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (0252) 2481-888 www.catymuineresort.com info@catymuineresort.com

Seahorse Resort & Spa

Anantara Mui Ne

Palm Garden Beach Resort and Spa

MUSEUM

Caty Resort

Hoang Ngoc (Oriental Pearl) Beach Resort & Spa Long Beach, Cam Ranh Peninsula, Khanh Hoa Province, Viet Nam Hotline : +84 258 6566 988 +84 961 99 6688 Email: golf.booking@kngolflinks.com Website: http://www.kngolflinks.com Fanpage: https://www.facebook.com/ KNGolfLinks/

Le Lai St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (0263) 3555-888. reservationdalat@anamandara-resort.com www.anamandara-resort.com From VND3,150,000 ($150)

Monet Garden Villa

MườngThanh Grand NhaTrang Hotel

6 Duong Hien Quyen St, Vinh Hoa Ward, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (0258) 3552-468 www.nhatrang.muongthanh.vn

152 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (0252) 3847-858 Email: info@hoangngoc-resort.com www.hoangngoc-resort.com

Vinpearl Resort Nha Trang

Muine Mud Bath & Spa

Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang City, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (0258) 3598-188 Email: info@vinpearlresort-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com

133A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (0252) 3743-481 Email: sales1@bunkhoangmuine.com www.bunkhoangmuine.com

3 Nguyen Du St., Dalat City, Lam Dong Province. Tel: (0263) 3810-826 www.monetgarden.com.vn

APRIL-MAY 2019

I

VIETNAM HERITAGE

• 45

DIRECTIONS

HO CHI MINH CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 028) TRAVEL

Asiana Travel Mate

17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3824-1555 Email: h2077@sofitel.com www.sofitel.com

a favourite tourist destination, offering a wide range of Vietnamese handicraft, fresh fruits and local specialities.

Saigon Prince Hotel

It was set up at the end of the 18th century when the Minh Dynasty in China was overthrown. Chinatown has many shops and private workshops. The most interesting places are Binh Tay market, Soai Kinh Lam fabric whole-sales market, the street of herbal medicine located on Hai Thuong Lan Ong and Thien Hau Temple on Nguyen Trai Street.

113C Bui Vien St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (028) 3838-6678 www.atravelmate.com

Buffalo Tours 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (028) 3827-9168 Email: travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn

Exotissimo 261/26 Phan Xich Long St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (028) 3995-9898 www.exotravel.com

Saigon Tourist 45 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (028) 3827-9279 www.saigon-tourist.net

63 Nguyen Hue St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (84) 28 3822 2999 www.saigonprincehotel.com Windsor Plaza Hotel 18 An Duong Vuong, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (028) 3833-6688 www.windsorplazahotel.com

Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (028) 3844-1005 Email: dosm@trailsofindochina.com www.trailsofindochina.com HOTELS

Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon

GALLERIES

Apricot Gallery 50 Mac Thi Buoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3822-7962

Craig Thomas Gallery 27i Tran Nhat Duat St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Mobile: 0903 888 431 Email: cthomasgallery@gmail.com www.cthomasgallery.com Open: 1 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Closed Mondays and Sundays

Galerie Quynh 253 Nguyen Van Troi St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3844-9222 Email: Info@eastingrandSaigon.com www.eastingrandsaigon.com

Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (028) 3824-8284 www.galeriequynh.com Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Park Hyatt Saigon

Sàn Art

2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (028) 3824-1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com

Rex Hotel 141 Nguyen Hue St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3829-2185 www.rexhotelvietnm.com

Sofitel Saigon Plaza

48/7 Me Linh St, Ward 19, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 6294-7059 www.san-art.org SIGHTSEEINGS

Notre Dame Cathedral

HERITAGE

I

MUSEUMS

Fine Arts Museum of Ho Chi Minh City 97A Pho Duc Chinh St, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3829-4441 www.baotangmythuattphcm.com Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Closed Mondays 41 Hoang Du Khuong S, Ward 12, Dist. 10, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3864-2430 www.fitomuseum.com.vn Open daily from 8.30 a.m. till 5.30 p.m.

Ticket: VND50,000 The first museum of traditional Vietnamese medicine

Ho Chi Minh City Museum 65 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3829-9741 www.hcmc-museum.edu.vn Open daily 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Independence Palace 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3822-3652 www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn Open daily, 7.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m., 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.

Southern Women Museum 202 Vo Thi Sau St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (028) 3932-7130

The History Museum 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3829-8146 www.baotanglichsuvn.com 8 a.m. - 11.30 p.m. and 1.30 p.m.

- 5 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday.

Closed on Monday

Ben Thanh Market

War Remnants Museum

APRIL-MAY 2019

VUNG TAU

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0254) HOTELS, RESORTS

Petrosetco Hotel 12 Truong Cong Dinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau. Tel: (0254) 3624-748 www.petrosetcohotel.vn

Petro House Hotel 63 Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel : (0254) 3852-014 Hotline: 0961.085.869 Email: info@petrohousehotel.vn www.petrohousehotel.vn

The Coast Hotel

Fito Museum

Cong Xa Paris Square, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Built in 1877, and the Cathedral opened to the public in 1880. The bricks used to build this marvellous structure were shipped from Marseilles.

Le Lai St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Ben Thanh market is a trade centre and

46 • V I E T N A M

Chinatown – Cho Lon

Tel: (028) 3930-5587 Email: warrmhcm@gmail.com Open daily 7.30 a.m. to midday and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

28 Vo Van Tan St, Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City.

300A Phan Chu Trinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau City Tel: (0254) 3627-777 Email: info@thecoasthotelvungtau.com www.thecoasthotelvungtau.com MUSEUM

White Palace 6 Tran Phu St, Ward.1, Vung Tau City Tel: (0254) 3852-605 Open daily 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.

PHU QUOC

(TELEPHONE CODE: 077) Eden Resort Phu Quoc Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Ward, Phu Quoc District, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3985-598 www.edenresort.com.vn MUSEUMS Coi Nguon Museum 149 Tran Hung Dao St, Duong dong Town, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3980-206 www.coinguonphuquoc.com