Vietnam heritage n 46 march april 2015 by Vietnam Heritage

2:5 MAR-APR 2015

ISSN 1859-4123

CULTURAL HERITAGE ASSOCIATION OF VIETNAM

Hoan Kiem Lake The heart of Hanoi

CONTENT No 2, Vol.5, March - April 2015

COVER STORY Preservation 8 Hoan Kiem Lake - The heart of Hanoi Architecture

12 Lift up your heads, you mighty gates 14 Castles in the air Advertorial

16 Waterfront in Hue: The place to stay 18 Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City; an oasis

in the heart of the city

20 Saigon sensation at Liberty Central Riverside Hotel Music

22 Ancient folk singing faces the sounds of silence Art 24 Witnessing the portrait of a lady Custom

25 Avatar animals are forbidden foods Warfare

26 Organic body armour Food

28 Snake follows mouse after pig Destination

30 The simple life

32 What the papers say 34 Events

38 Value for money 43 Directions 58 Laid back

Cover photograph: Hoan Kiem Lake Photo: Bui Dang Thanh

Published by the Cultural Heritage Association of Vietnam

Publication licence No: 1648/GP-BTTTT from the Ministry of Information and Communications of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam for the English-language edition of The Gioi Di San (The World of Heritage) magazine Editor-in-Chief: Le Thanh Hai; Public Relations Director: Bui Thi Hang; Sub-editing: Erik Johnson; Assistant: Kha Tu Anh; Production: Nguyen Hoang Kim Long; Contributing Photographers: Nguyen Ba Han, Hoang Quoc Tuan, Hoang The Nhiem, Huynh Van Nam, Le Hoai Phuong, Nguyen Anh Tuan; Ngo Nguyen Huynh Trung Tin; Tran Viet Duc Correspondent: Pip de Rouvray; Advertising and Circulation: Green Viet Advertising JSC Advertising and Subscriptions Service: Email: ads.vietnamheritage@gmail.com; Duy Huong 0903 630 489 Email: vietnamheritagemagazine@gmail.com Hanoi Advertising and Subscription: The He Moi MHN Viet Nam Co.Ltd, Mr Song Hao: 0903 476 999 Nha Trang Advertising and Subscription: Bach Cat Co. Ltd,; 22/6A Bach Dang Str. Nha Trang City Tel: (58) 360 7070 Fax (58) 387 0099, Email: bachcatprco.ltd@gmail.com Contact in the US for subscription and advertising: 2628 Sturla dr. San Jose, CA 95148

Vietnam Heritage Editorial Office: 4th Floor, 1/1 Hoang Viet St., Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (84-8) 38 11 88 46 Fax: (84-8) 38 11 87 75 Email: vnheritagemagazine@gmail.com vietnamdisan@gmail.com l

www.vietnamheritage.com.vn

Vietnam Heritage

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

â&#x20AC;˘5

Gianh River, Quang Binh Province, 2014. The photo was exhibited in Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards 2014. Photo: Le Duc Thanh

Photo: Tran Quang Tuan

PRESERVATION

HOAN KIEM LAKE - T 8 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

Photo: Bui Dang Thanh

Photo: Do Huu Tien

PRESERVATION

THE HEART OF HANOI BY LE HUU TRUC

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

•9

PRESERVATION

Describing the image Hoan Kiem Lake or Sword Lake, and analysing its delicate but no-less-important role in creating the architecture and urban signature of Hanoi is absolutely not easy. The lake is considered as the culmination of myths, the foundation of beauty, the heart of Hanoi, a wonderful bucket of flowers in the centre of the city. It’s the place people live in the present, the past and the future at the same time. History

A rich history of national mythology, a favourable location and convenience for shopping, walking and contemplation all work together to give the lake a special charm. Since the colonial days, the French have done much to add value to this spot by applying modern urban planning. They scraped the bottom of the lake, built a stone embankment, planted trees, and surrounded the lake with parks and squares, adding more functionality with each component. After the liberation, the lake became a space for the occasional promenade

and for people from the countryside to stop for an ice-cream, crowded only during the New Year days. Then, little by little, the need for a leisurely walk grew. Water, big green trees, a feeling of space and spirituality combine to make the place more relaxing than elsewhere in the city.

The symbolic value of water

Originally, Hanoi was surrounded by rivers and protected by dikes. The change of flow formed countless lakes, some connected by underground channels. The lakes are a signature feature of Hanoi that con-

10 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

tributes to the feng shui, architecture and personality of the city itself. The lake’s quiet blue mirror seems to reflect our glorious past and impresses with tranquillity and fertility. The water and trees represent Vietnamese human nature and way of life.

Cultural strata

Few places in Hanoi have as many intermingling cultural layers and features as the Hoan Kiem Lake. Remnants of the feudal era seem so timid among the modern structures. Something French still hangs on tight here. Many new boxy structures try to

PRESERVATION

Photo: Duy Tuong

stand tall to show a new vitality, but their immaturity is quite obvious. The dwellers around the lake have also changed a lot. Newcomers have replaced those who used to make the place feel unique. But some of the old habits have survived. Young ones still love to date here. Aged people seem to never have left their chess boards and marble benches. Some even come here to discuss literary issues. The lake is really the best place to learn about the city’s life, because its look and feel changes constantly and yet remains constant. It is the centre which blows life into all activities. It witnessed all the ups and downs of history. The very special Hanoi way of life seems to have spread out from right here.

Urban hub

Modern cities boast vertical high-rises which grow taller and taller. In Hanoi, the space over lake surfaces creates a balance and difference for the city. A lake is an entity in its own right, and also a vital component of the whole. It gives air and space to the city, reduces population density, and relieves pressure and anxiety. By its location, the Returned Sword Lake creates a mutu-

Photo: Lai Dien Dam

ally beneficial relationship between the Ancient Quarter and the French Quarter. It is the most poetic feature a city like Hanoi can dream about, and it has it all.

Legend and symbol

It is one of the last oases in the city where one can find open-air refuge from the fuss of the ever-advancing real estate business. Perhaps that’s because the lake is a legend and a symbol, spiritual and sacred, mythical and poetic. The legend of the sword and the golden turtle is mentioned often, and each time an enormous old turtle emerges on the lake surface, the people Hanoi once again feel a surge of deepest emotions. It is also the place that hosts many cultural and social events, where cultural values and spiritual bonds have crystallized through a thousand year history. Hoan Kiem Lake is part of the city and the country it represents, a materialization of what our people have purified and refined, which is simplicity, spontaneity, harmony and sophistication.

References: - ‘Ho Guom ngay va dem’ (Sword Lake, day and night), by Phan Cam Thuong, printed on Ray of Light journal no. 3/2004. - ‘Ha Noi va hinh tuong cua nuoc’ (Hanoi and the symbolism of water), Christian Pðdelahere de Loddis, in the book ‘Ha Noi Chu Ky Cua Nhung Doi Thay’ (Hanoi, cycle of change), Science and Technology Publishing House, 2003.n Opposite, left: Hoan Kiem Lake from the air in early 20th century. Photo from the

archive of Nguyen Anh Tuan

Bottom: A turtle in Hoan Kiem Lake. Photo: Ha Dinh Duc

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

• 11

ARCHITECTURE

Lift up you you migh

ince ancient times, the village gate has served as more than just an entrance or exit. Many villages have more than one gate, each facing different directions. Originally, these may have been made of spiked bamboo to prevent wild beasts from entering. Later, they became part of the general defense against any intruders. In the flourishing middle Le Dynasty, the gates were built stronger, longer lasting, and more beautifully with materials such as bricks, stones, laterite, and lime mixed with salt and honey or cane sugar. In many places, the gate has strong wooden doors, which only opened at a certain times, as deemed necessary by the village. Some even have moats on both sides, and were reinforced with bamboo inside, like a barricade. Before 1945, Hanoi and former Ha Tay had about 1500 villages with multiple gates. Time and wars have destroyed many of these. But the remaining gates, such as those of Uoc Le village in Thanh Oai, Chi Quan village in Thach That, Mong Phu village in Duong Lam, and Son Tay are truly cultural legacies left by the previous generations. An important part of a gate is the top, which is often built in the form of an arch. The arch is usually covered, so travelers can hide from the tropical sun and rains. In many places, there is a floor or two on top of the arch, each adorned with boat prowshaped roof corners, like those of temples and pagodas. On each sides of the arch, there are tall pillars, with reliefs of parallel sentences, designed to introduce the village’s good traditions. Some gates, besides the big entrance, have two smaller side doors, like those at pagodas. Some gates have a room on top of it, like those of Thach Than village in Quoc Oai, Lai Xa village in Hoai Duc, and particularly, the gate of Mông Phụ village in Duong Lam, built during Lê dynasty. The front side of the gate is the most important. There is a relief of a seal, with flowers and leaves, and above the gate, a relief of the village name or

12 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

ARCHITECTURE

ur heads, hty gates BY ANH CHI

slogan which shows the villagers’ aspirations. For example, Uoc Le village gate, one of the most beautiful ones in the North, has a big relief of the village name. Phung Xa village gate has two big characters; ‘Loyalty and Righteousness’. Ha Tri village gate has: ‘Good traditions preservation’. Many villages have the three characters for ‘Mankind for beauty’, meaning that beautiful human qualities are the highest values. Many others have the three characters for ‘Little Tall Big’, which were taken from the story about a high court mandarin named Vu Dinh Quoc, who told his descendants to make the village gates higher and bigger so that horses and carriages could pass through. It expressed the wish that the village’s descendants study hard in order to have a successful career. There are often a couple of nghê guarding at the gate. A nghê is an imaginary animal, half lion and half dragon, covered by scales, with wide shoulders and big forehead, which has two strong horns. One of the sacred animals, it is loved and revered. Big bright eyes and wide mouth full of teeth make them look like they are laughing to the villagers, but seem ferocious to intruders. Some are made of stones, some are ceramic, and some built from a mix of sand, lime, salt and honey. Some are big, sitting in front of the gate as if guarding it day and night, preserving the peaceful life of the village. Some are slim and elegant, sitting on top of the gate’s pillars, or in a roofed compartment above the gate, looking out far away beyond the fields and rivers, toward the horizon.n

Opposite from top: Uoc Le gate village in Thanh Oai Dist., Hanoi. Photo: Bui Dang Thanh; Phu Hau gate village in Vinh Phuc Province, Hanoi. Photo: Bui Dang Thanh; Van Du gate village in the suburb of Hanoi. Photo: Nguyen Viet Binh.

From top: A gate village in Dong Anh Dist., Hanoi. Photo: Nguyen Viet Binh; Duong Lam gate village in Hanoi. Photo: Nguyen Ba Ngoc

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

• 13

Castles in the air

t’s called ‘new long house’ because this is a variation of the traditional long houses, which are culturally, the typical dwelling place of some ethnic minorities of Tay Nguyen (and Truong Son), who still maintain a matriarchal social structure. Improved economic conditions and extensive cultural exchange between different regions and ethnicities have almost wiped away this form of dwelling. Instead of long stilted houses, people now build houses on the ground like in the low lands. But the Gia Rai and Ba Na people in Ia Pa, Phu Thien districts and Ayunpa Township (Gia Lai

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY

province) have another idea. Instead of low, narrow thatched roof long houses built on thin poles, they use big strong poles to build spacious long houses with high ceilings, wooden walls and tile or tole roofs. Another significant change is that instead of 9-10 families as before, the new style structures, although quite long (10-25m), house only at most three households (or kitchens, as they call it); that of the parents and the unmarried children, and those of married daughters. As a product of economic development, the long houses of the people of Ia Pa, Phu

14 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

Gia Lai province

HUYNH VAN MY

Thien, Ayunpa, Krong Pa, Konchro districts have undergone many improvements to satisfy the modern needs of their inhabitants. Today, beside the main long house, there are auxiliary structures to form an L, T or II shape. There are also multiple-storey long houses. ‘The house must be big, beautiful, long-lasting and full of comfort…’ That’s what people think nowadays.n

Clockwise from top: An area of ‘new long houses’ in Ka Xom Village, Po To Commune, Ia Pa Dist.; The multiple-storey long house in L shape with Thai roof-style launching in Po To Commune, Ia Pa Dist; A new long house with a distance of 2.5 m - 3 m from the ground to the floor for keeping agricultural food and machines

ADVERTORIAL

Waterfront in Hue: The place to stay Photo: Century Riverside Hotel Hue

eed a place to stay in Hue? I recommend you get as close to the water as possible. Unlike in Hanoi or Saigon, which have grown up mainly on one bank of the river, in Hue, the river is the very soul of the place. In Vietnam's largest cities, you can conduct all your business or do all your sightseeing without ever glimpsing the river. In Hue, both locals and tourists cross the river every day. And what a lovely name it has too - The Perfume River. No, it is not that the waters have the smell of Chanel. Upstream, the wood from certain trees, when burned, gives off a fragrance. ‘Per fume’ originally means ‘by smoke’. The Century Riverside Hotel Hue is the best choice for soaking up the Hue ambiance. This full-service, four-star hotel has well-appointed rooms, good food and beverage, beautiful gardens, a spacious swimming pool, a spa, a fitness room, a tennis court and even a small clinic. Above all, its terrace bar, its restaurant, and its riverside rooms with balconies each afford a ring-side seat for Hue's star performance-the quiet flow of the river. It is a mark of the friendliness and attention to customer care of this hotel that the receptionist remembered me from my visit the year before. She made sure I got the same fifth-floor riverside view with ample balcony. The room itself had bright, white-washed walls, which contrasted with the dark cherry tropical hardwood furnishings. A string of royal Hue purple orchid petals adorned the bed and a framed photograph of old Hue hung on the wall behind it. You know exactly where you are in this hotel. This is no worldwide chain hotel that could be any old where! So it was that I sat down with a glass of Bordeaux, whose name aptly translates as ‘beside the waters’, to enjoy another Hue sundown with the waters lapping below. The sun gradually descended over the Western Hills with a sky of ever-deepening hues of blue, orange and tangerine. The neon lights of advertising boards across river were reflected in the water, gradually forming broad bands of

BY RITCH PICKENS

sea-blue, green, silver and purple, reaching right up to the banks of the hotel. Directly below, birds were beginning to roost in the coconut and fan palms. A flock of egrets skimmed over the water, their whiteness contrasting with the darkening sky. The chugging of a tourist dragon boat also contrasted with the paddling of a lone punter in his dugout canoe. Such a poetic and relaxing way to end a day! I awoke the following morning to the sound of birdsong. Rubbing my eyes, I spotted the little troubadour out on the balcony wall - a sparrow! Then after freshening up in the bathroom-cum- shower using the sweetsmelling complimentary toiletries, it was down to the Terrace Restaurant to enjoy a substantial breakfast and morning meditation by the river. Naughty, I know, but I could not help but laugh at the antics of local people using perhaps for the first time a toast machine. The fact that the Vietnamese warm their bread leaving it still white rather than actually toasting it to a brown, I find merely different. Sticking whole baguettes onto the grill is more curious. But on this morning, I witnessed a lady put a large knob of butter onto a slice of bread and then put it into the machine. Within a while, there was melted butter all over the toaster. I sharply told her the correct procedure was to spread the butter on afterwards with a small knife called a butter

16 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

knife which is something rarely seen in Vietnam. I should not have done so, but I told her she had probably ruined the machine. I felt a bit bad about embarrassing her, but later I think I made amends by entertaining her and her family by singing a Vietnamese lullaby to her young child. It was a lovely, warm, bright morning and everyone was enjoying their buffet breakfast out on the terrace; the river now looking as cheerful by day as it looks romantic and mysterious by night. There was a notice on the wall ‘Smoking Area’. There was a time, not so long ago, when the Century Riverside Hotel Hue practically had the monopoly in this end of the city. Now, a whole tourist enclave of guest houses and one-to-four star hotels has sprung up behind her. Some of these places I know are very fine hostelries indeed and like this grand old dame are excellent values for money. Yet, none of them have the full range of facilities as this one, and none of them night and day brings you so close to the waterside, to this beautiful, ever-rejuvenating river, which as I have already opined, is the very heart and soul of Hue.n

Century Riverside Hotel Hue

49 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3823-390 info@centuryriversidehue.com www.centuryriversidehue.com

ADVERTORIAL

Photos: Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City

Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City; an oasis in the heart of the city

he panorama from the window of my room-looking out down the wide boulevard, beautifully framed with rows of giant maranti trees nearly reaching the level of the 11th floor with their sprawling tops and the city centre with the sky-high lotus-shaped Bitexco Tower and high-rises of office buildings and malls at the distance was utterly impressive. Minutes ago, I enjoyed a slightly dizzying taxi ride through a labyrinth of lanes packed with patchwork groceries, tailors, motorbike repair and forging shops, food and fruit stands. The beeways of streets suddenly interspersed with wide avenues jammed to the rafters with vehicles of all possible and impossible kinds, outlined with smoking old pagodas and temples in

fringes of whimsical ornaments, boiling markets and streams of wandering hawkers. The taxi finally moored to the entrance of the five-star Hotel Equatorial and I tottered through the spacious and refreshingly cool lobby to the check-in counter. The Hotel Equatorial’s ground floor pleased the eye with elegant interiors and tasteful decor as well as with huge spaces, an inviting and casually elegant cocktail lounge, delicately accentuated with glass and wooden carved screens and Chit Chat restaurant-cum-café with a showcase displaying tempting French pastry and Lunar New Year sweets. The Deluxe Room looked elegant and well-appointed, tastefully furnished with an eye for utter comfort and functionality,

18 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

BY NATHALIE SOKOLOVSKAYA

equipped with a big working desk and window lounge chair to contemplate a spectacular long-range view of the city. The room boasted lots of natural light and a pleasant, unobtrusive palette of beige and chestnut interior colours. The pleasant surprise that followed was the access to Equator Club Lounge with separate front desk, cosy restaurant where gourmet breakfasts and afternoon tea and drinks are served to the Deluxe Club rooms’ guests. The on-floor briefing room and separate spacious smoking room are also available for Deluxe Club Room key holders. Hotel Equatorial features 333 guestrooms and suites, ranging from elegant Deluxe and Premier to sumptuous Senator and Presidential suites with grand Rome-

ADVERTORIAL style balconies, terraces overlooking the open swimming pool with bar and appealing arched patio. The hotel combines, in an excellent and well-thought-out way, the full range of facilities and services for both business and leisure guests. Its favourable location on the intersection point of the city’s four most vivid and colourful districts with abundance of inimitable oriental ambiance to plunge in, including the famous boiling markets of Cholon, makes it a perfect place to give one’s private southern capital discovery its kick start in an impressive and non-trivial way. Situated on a quiet shadow alley eight minutes’ shuttle bus ride from District 1, Hotel Equatorial makes one feel like they are staying not in a hotel in a bustling city, but in a resort with a peaceful and relaxing atmosphere which is great to immerse oneself in after a day of dizzying city street medley explorations or tense business meetings. To strengthen the feelings are state-of-the-art Fitness & Leisure Centre with full gym, spa centre with extended spa-menu and private

massage rooms and sauna; steam room and hot Jacuzzi pool. Award–winning and atmospheric Chit Chat Restaurant fascinates with the full illusion of an Asian street food market with garlands of bunches of exotic herbs, colourful stalls and live-cooking action stations, with rows and rows of Vietnamese, Japanese, Chinese and Malaysian dishes galore, went alive on the hotel ground floor. Over 75 dishes are presented here in the culinary collection of daily dinner buffets. Chit and Chat institution offers exclusive themed buffets, not to be missed while in the city, such as ‘Delightful Weekend Dim Sum’ every Saturday and Sunday and ‘Seafood Extravaganza’ every Sunday. The last one conquered my palate forever with freshest of the fresh oysters bursting with the flavour of ocean depths, tamarind crab and a headspinning mosaic of sashimi and rolls. Exquisite Orientica Restaurant, on the first floor of Hotel Equatorial, with its elegant Asian-style interiors and feng shui inspired décor, offers its guests an insightful

and stylish outlook on the enigmatic and multifaceted philosophy of Asian gastronomic culture, with impressive pieces of high Asian cuisine. The culinary side of one’s stay at Hotel Equatorial provides a truly healthy and flavourful whole-day buffet option and can be easily turned into a gourmet food therapy to rehabilitate one’s precious self after a year of workday’s hectic meals too. Hotel Equatorial has everything the most discerning traveller may need for a memorable and truly five-star, international standard stay, starting from elegant interiors and a full set of world-class facilities, through great sightseeing city exploration options and up to the small details and surprises that turn one’s stay into a unique experience to remember.n

Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City

242 Tran Binh Trong St, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (08) 3839-7777 Email: info@hcm.equatorial.com www.equatorial.com

Photo: Liberty Central Saigon Riverside Hotel

Saigon sensation at Liberty Central Riverside Hotel

-storey Liberty Central Saigon Riverside Hotel, built on the scenic esplanade of Saigon River, impresses one with an elegant look even from a distance. Its spacious foyer in light beige and champagne colours with vibrant and stylish interior design and futuristic satelite lounge chairs look sparklingly refreshing. After a quick check-in, I was standing by the floor-toceiling panorama windows, watching the poetic vista of the chocolate-coloured waters of the Saigon River with a picturesque quay and a line of leisure vessels at anchor. The wide plane of a neighbouring residential quarter, full of green groves stretching across the river pleased the eye and was surprising to observe from a hotel situated in the very centre of bustling metropolis of Saigon, at half minute walk to far-famed Dong Khoi Street. The room featured tasteful modern design with a fine combination of hazel, beige and deep blue tones and minimalistic yet cosy furniture, all together looking very spacious. Wide-screen LCD home cinema-size TV panels and glass wall bathrooms were also present to add hi-tech touches to the room.

Liberty Central Saigon Riverside Hotel offers a wide choice of well-appointed and upscale accommodation to fit any taste. The hotel interiors boast a refreshingly dynamic yet peaceful ambience with cosy and stylish sitting areas, tastefully-appointed furnishing and creative design solutions to fit both leisure and business travellers. As for in-house facilities Liberty Central Saigon Riverside Hotel offers a lot of options for pleasantly surprising and impressive experiences to pamper all the senses: fine gastronomy and gourmet sessions at Bistro café and Wine bar on the beautifully designed mezanine floor or at the Central restaurant with contemporary decor and three exquisite daily buffets, great breakfasts and evening Cocktail Buffet free service at Club lounge for business travellers on the 23rd floor, renowned wines and a plethora of cocktails at the Vertical sky bar on the rooftop with views over Ho Chi Minh City at night and open swimming pool contemplating the sunset from the rooftop deck with iced coffee or glass of wine in hand amid orchids in full blossom can also be-

20 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

BY NATHALIE SOKOLOVSKAYA

come one of the highlights of one’s stay in Saigon. Aesthetic delights of spectacular city panoramas are also available at hotel health and spa centre fully equipped with state-of-the-art fitness machines, an excellent option to do an intensive or light workout after gourmet sessions or to pamper oneself after a busy day of visiting city sites. The spa centre offers an extensive menu of massages and outstanding sauna and steam bath private rooms with the bathtub set right by the panoramic window. Boasting a prime location within few minutes’ walk through an atmospheric central quarter straight to the city’s main attractions, Liberty Central Saigon Riverside Hotel offers a memorable stay with truly international standard of comfort, charming views and can become an excellent option to start one’s trip to Southern Vietnam (or to finish it) in impressive way.n Liberty Central Saigon Riverside Hotel 17 Ton Duc Thang St, Dist.1, HCM Tel: (08) 3827-1717 www.libertycentralhotel.com

MUSIC

Nghe Tinh

Ancient folk singing faces the sounds of silence

uriousness and concern would come at the same time once a heritage item gained UNESCO status. Vi giam folk song, a cultural legacy of locals in Nghe Tinh region in the Central of Vietnam, is in just that situation. People in other regions in the country and around the world have begun their research on vi giam since December of last year, when it was honoured as a world cultural heritage item by the UN’s cultural body. Certainly vi giam has yet to vanish in modern life, but it is no longer popular as it was in its glorious age. The old, natural environment of vi giam has almost gone. The traditional craft workshop has been cleared out from the villages in the region, which spans the central provinces of Nghe An and Ha Tinh. No more hand-weaving workshops can be found at the localities, while conical hat-making has becomes a personal household job and is seen in only a few hamlets. There are, as well, fewer boatmen going across the rivers.

BY HA NGUYEN

On rice paddies, machinery has replaced farmers in almost all cultivation work. Urbanization has also stopped the placement of banyan trees and wells in front of each village. ‘The original environment for vi giam has gone. We now have only re-enacted scenes of rural and agricultural activities for vi giam on stages,’ says Pham Tien Dung, vice director of Nghe An Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism. That fact gives much concern for the conservation of the folksong, as vi giam was born in the working environment to which it became attached. According to Nguyen Ngoc Quyet, head of the research unit at local Centre for Vi giam Safeguarding and Promotion, vi giam songs varied according to craft professions; there are textile workers vi giam, conical hat makers vi giam, rice planters vi giam, field workers vi giam, wood-chucking groups vi giam, bamboo weavers vi giam, boatmen vi giam, and several others. Technically, vi giam folk songs are com-

22 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

bination of vi and giam. Vi songs are composed in 6-8 verse (the last words of the first 6-word line and the sixth in the 8-word line are homonyms; while the last of the 6-word line that goes behind the 8-word line is a homonym of its eighth word) and in some variations of the verse. Vi has no rhythm. Giam songs are in 5-word verses, with each song composed of five or seven lines, the last normally repeating the second-tolast. Giam songs have rhythm. Their rhythmic changes are made on each word or couple of words. Vi giam folksong does not require music from instruments, as originally they started in the working environment, among craft workers of traditional textile weaving, conical hat making or farming. Experts said locals Left: Re-enacted scenes created on a river in Nghe An for the performances of boatman vi giam. Photo: Sy Minh Right: Master Tran Tu teaches the kids in his village of singing vi giam folksong. Photo: Ha Nguyen

MUSIC were very good at composing 6-8 verse, as quickly as they spoke. Since the 18th century, craft groups grew in the region with many workshops, where workers often produced the verse to ease the burden of the hard working days. They then hummed the verse in tune to make the vi giam folk song. Elder Tran Tu, a vi giam master in Hoang Tru Village in Nghe Anâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nam Dan District, says during the good old days of vi giam, the songs were sung by folks from all walks of life, from manual workers to Confucian scholars, including the outstanding ones like patriot Phan Boi Chau in Nghe An or the Tale of Kieuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s author poet Nguyen Du in Ha Tinh. People in those days communicated by singing vi giam. For instance, weavers in a textile workshop spoke to their next door neighbours, rice planters talked to a woodchucking man nearby, or a boatman welcomed guests on board with basic vi giam. Master Tu tells an anecdote about when scholar Phan Boi Chau approached Hoang Tru Village and unfortunately fell, kneeing down on the road because of slippery mud.

A lady in the nearby textile workshop immediately sang out her vi giam verse: â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Man, we are the same age. Thus kneeing down in front of me isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t necessary.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; The scholar just as quickly replied in a very metaphoric fashion: â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The road is weird so far. Are we so close for such passionate embrace huh?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; But Master Tu also admits that vi giam songs sung at the village club now have lost part of their soul, as its natural environment of textile workshops in the village were wiped out long ago. Dung of the Nghe An Culture Department says authorities in the two provinces have set up several programmes for safeguarding and promoting vi giam folk songs according to UNESCO commitments. Among them is to give the folksong a theatrical life, which has actually been a tradition since 1973. Artists have composed many plays that comprise old vi giam songs or new songs on old vi giam tunes to perform on stage, he says. But native people of the region worry that vi giam has lost in the theatre. In the grand show to honour vi giam held in Nghe

An late last January, all vi giam songs performed were theatrical versions of the folk song. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;They are definitely not vi giam,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; says Tran Xuan Tinh, a Nghe An native who lives in HCM City, watching the show live on national television. According to Nguyen Ngoc At, director of the local vi giam safeguarding centre, the two provinces have around 120 vi giam clubs, but the singing of vi giam faces the same situation as it does Tuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s village. Experts said the core and soul of vi giam are from local Nghe Tinh dialects, the ability to play with words in 6-8 verse, and the natural environment of original vi giam. The biggest hope for vi giam conservation comes from the pride of locals. The key task for cultural authorities is how to bring back part of the original environment where the vi giam folk song was born. Obviously, it is a difficult task, but the authorities receive full support from the younger generation, who always holds vi giam as a legacy in their hearts and has so much care about conserving folk songs.n

BUSINESS NESS P PACKAGE PA ACKAGE Un Until til 30 SSeptember eptember 2015

For For the perfect perfect venue venue ffor or yyour our ccomfortable omffortable ac accommodation commodation look no further further than our ccomprehensive omprehensive Business P Package ackage

DELUXE ROOM ROOM DELUXE 3,250,000vnd++/nigh 3,250,000vnd++/nightt Single room room

t %BJMZ CVĂ˛FU CSFBLGBTU BU UIF "USJVN $BGĂ? t %BJMZ CVĂ˛FU CSFBLGBTU BU UIF "USJVN $BGĂ? tt $PNQMJNFOUBSZ QJFDFT PG MBVOESZ QFS EBZ $PNQMJNFOUBSZ QJFDFT PG MBVOESZ QFS EBZ tt -BUF DIFDL PVU UJMM -BUF DIFDL PVU UJMM tt 4DIFEVMFE IPUFM TIVUUMF CVT TFSWJDF 4DIFEVMFE IPUFM TIVUUMF CVT TFSWJDF tt 7BMFU TIPF TIJOJOH 7BMFU TIPF TIJOJOH

t %BJMZ &OHMJTI OFXTQBQFS t %BJMZ &OHMJTI OFXTQBQFS t )JHI TQFFE JOUFSOFU t )JHI TQFFE JOUFSOFU t "DDFTT UP 'JUOFTT DFOUFS 4BVOB BOE 4XJNNJOH QPPM t "DDFTT UP 'JUOFTT DFOUFS 4BVOB BOE 4XJNNJOH QPPM t EJTDPVOU PO GPPE CFWFSBHF DPOTVNQUJPO t EJTDPVOU PO GPPE CFWFSBHF DPOTVNQUJPO

- TThe he rrate ate is subjec to SService ervice Char subjectt to Charge ge and V VAT. AT. For rreservations, eservations, please call (08) 3823 3333 Ex t. 105 or Email: rreservation.saigon@lotte.net eservation.saigon@lotte.net - For Ext. 2A-4A 2A-4A Ton Ton Duc Duc TThang hang SStreet, treet, Distr District ict 1, Ho Chi M Minh inh C City, ity, Vietnam Vietnam T 84.8.3823.3333 F 84.8.3823.2333 www.lottehotel.com/saigon www.lottehotel.com/saigon

ART

Witnessing the portrait of a lady

eing an artist can be a precarious way to earn a living. One way to surmount this difficulty, as with any business, is to find a niche market. Portraiture may no longer be seen by the art critic as a major focus of contemporary art, but over the last twelve years, Phuong Quoc Tri has established himself as foremost in this field in Vietnam. His commissioned works typically render him in the region of four thousand dollars a piece. He is the latest artist to have an exhibition in co-sponsorship with the Craig Thomas Galley at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza in Ho Chi Minh City. I was lucky enough to be invited along with a select group of art lovers to a sneak preview. Even luckier, the artist was brave enough to allow us to see him at work producing a portrait of a middle-aged lady before our very eyes. There are only nine frames on show and yet there is diversity. One is not a portrait and yet it captures the essence of a very Vietnamese icon. It has a place of pride behind the concierge's desk and will be the first of the exhibition you will see. From below, it appears to be an object hung on a wall-a bookcase or a family shrine, I surmised. Close up, you realise it is of the famous one-pillar pagoda in Hanoi. Also standing apart from the rest there is a reclining rear view nude. The remaining seven are oil on canvass paintings of young women. One is a sample commission of a fresh-faced young lady. I was surprised to learn from the press release that Tri is entirely self-taught. He paints in a largely realistic style. There no contortions or attempts at the semi-abstract. The U.K's one and only female prime minister Margaret Thatcher, famous

BY RITCH PICKENS

for disparaging remarks about Francis Bacon's portraits, would probably have liked this exhibition. One technique he has that gives a wet look, almost as if he were painting in the rain, are long steaks of white running down the hair. Only one picture departs from the realism slightly. Simply entitled ‘Portrait of a Woman,’ the hair is pulled out longitudinally and streaks of what seems to be black paint drip from it. Three paintings are in black and white and could have been of the same demure young lady, front on and in profile, looking classically Vietnamese and in one case with a hair style like that of the banded head wear of the North. The last pair were my favourite. They are almost historic in character and brought to mind Holbein. The young lady in traditional garb seems to be from a long-ago golden age. Indeed, her clothes are golden and the background is bright yellow. It is very pleasing to the eye

24 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

and fittingly entitled ‘Lady of the Past’. For fully an hour and a half, the artist was at work on the portrait of a middle- aged lady seated and wearing a simple black dress. Whilst she was perhaps no great painting in oils, the woman was certainly not unattractive and there was a great deal of character in her face. The concentration and deep inspection of the artist contrasted with the stillness of the sitter-she had the patience of Job! Whilst a companion remarked about the beauty of the eyes in the painting, I actually felt the artist was not having one of his better days. I would have liked the painting to be have been as we the spectators saw it; in profile and featuring the dress. Instead he produced only a head, chubbier than real life. But we could not really judge, as the artist came to a halt declaring his work thirty per cent unfinished just as the Chilean wine and canapés were beginning to run out. One peculiarity I must mention is that the artist used no palette. Instead he drew form daubs of paint spread out on a tree trunk fashioned into a chair. In short, this is an exhibition by an artist of true calibre and should attract dealers, collectors and the casual art lover in general. As usual, with Sofitel, it is a free show and in full public view. Go along, see, enjoy and judge for yourselves. You have nothing to lose and if you have a few thousand dollars to spare you might even find yourself gaining a work of art! ‘Skin Deep’ an exhibition by the artist Phuong Quoc Tri at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan Boulevard, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City in association with Craig Thomas Gallery is on display from 3 March until 4 April 2015.n

CUSTOMS

Dien Bien District

Mrs Quang Thi Say and her children

Pa Xa Xa Village

Avatar animals are forbidden foods

t was getting cold when I came to Pa Xa Xa Village, Pa Thom Commune, Dien Bien District, near the border with Laos. Beside the fire place, the villagers told me their myths. 58-year-old Quang Thi Say is the village’s living history record. I was most impressed by her story about her people’s family names and how they related to specific animals. Choosing the family name of the Kho Mu is their unique custom. They imitate certain movements of the totem animal, to prove that they belong to that animal’s species. Mrs Say said that each Kho Mu family name has its own origin, usually related to some animal. For example, the Quang (fox), Luong (civet) and Lois (eagle). Others include Rvai (tiger), Tiac (deer), Ho Hoa (monkey), Oive (otter), Mar (snake) and Kumbur (pangolin).The Kho Mu have very strict rules about dealing with the family totem. Seeing one’s own totem, one should refrain from killing it. The Kho Mu still lives by hunting, but hunting one’s own totem is forbidden because they believe they will become their totem animal in the next life. If one sees a dead totem animal, one must bury it. Eating one’s own totem is the worst blasphemy. This

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY DONG XUYEN

The hunters of Kho Mu regard their totems as culinary taboo rule is so strict that if someone has eaten his own totem animal, and washed his hands from a container, others have to throw away all the water in it. Mrs Say told me that Luong Van Kenh and Luong Van Sa came to a visit a friend on New Year’s Day in 2013. At dinner, they ate without asking what meat was served. Then their hearts fell when they learned that they just ate a civet. Soon after that, both lost all their teeth, making all the Kho Mu fearful. To verify this, I went to Xa Cuong, but the men were not at home. However the villagers said the story was true. Beside totemic beliefs, the Kho Mu people also have some other customs. For example, the ‘kinh coong’ dish. In Kho Mu, ‘coong’ means vegetables in general, including chilli, onion, garlic and egg-plant, plus rotten meat. ‘Kinh’ means a miscellaneous soup. ‘Kinh coong’ is a vegetable soup with rotten meat. This special dish is a must for weddings, New Year’s or other festivity. The meat must be

hung above a kitchen for weeks and sprayed with water every day to remain damp. Thus, it gets infested with flies, and with them comes bacteria, and the meat acquires the desired flavour. To prepare it, they stew the meat until it falls off the bone completely. Then, they add the vegetables and some rice powder to make it thick. Another example is their planting dance. Every spring, the Kho Mu performs a dance with their special sticks attached to musical instruments as a way to be one with the Ying and Yang, to pray for a better life. Each stick is 1.8-2 m long with a sharp end, which is sometimes even iron-plated. The sharp end is normally made of strong wood. The other half is made of bamboo and attached to small bamboo pipes with a little pebble inside. When moved, these rudimentary instruments make joyful sounds amidst the misty, dreamy world, waking up the mountains and forests. Strong men walk at the front, in a line, shoulder to shoulder, dancing and thrusting their sticks into the soil, making tunes that call everybody to work. Young women follow them, throwing seeds into the new holes then levelling them with their feet. The whole company moves gracefully in unison to the songs.n

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

• 25

WARFARE

Organic body armour BY NGUYEN THANH

Made from trees, this unique protection is still used today

Since the times of legends, the Co Tu in the mighty mountains of Truong Son have been using bark as body armour to fight bad weather, beasts and enemies. Bark armour is a unique feature of this ethnicity. Today, it can only be seen in the harvest and buffalo kill festivities of the highlanders, and that quite rarely. But once upon a time, it was almost the daily wear of Co Tu menwarriors in their quest for food and peace. We went up to the Vietnam-Laos border in Tay Giang District, Quang Nam Province, to look for Co Tu bark armour, if any could be found. Po Ning Village of Lang Commune hung mysteriously between heaven and earth, among clouds. Clau Nam was sharpening his arrows and spears to prepare for the village feast. Clau Nam is one of the most respected elders along the Tay Giang border area. His words are wisdom itself to everyone. He is also a legendary warrior from the Tay Giang wilderness. Talking about his people’s armour, Nam’s eyes brightened. His 83-year-old legs are still strong and his eyes sharp. He is still roaming his mountains and forests every day to hunt, barefoot and wearing his body armour. ‘This bark is very strong. Arrows can’t pierce it, claws can’t tear it. It’s the heaven’s blessing for the Co Tu for our hunting in the forests,’ the elder Nam says as he puts on his armour, which has accompanied him almost all his life. The decades-old bark tissues are strong

as new. Old Nam said, ‘Each and every bark coat is cherished by the villagers, because they are the recorders of history and legends of the past. Sitting still in ambush, it makes a warrior look like a rotten log. It even has great detoxifying power to protect our men from poisonous arrows of the enemies.’ In Po Ning Village, people still remember sagas from the French-Vietnamese War. Camouflaged in their bark armour, Co Tu men took down French soldiers with their poisonous arrows, forcing them to retreat in panic. The bark, along with bows and arrows and spears, has done its part to help protect

26 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

the mountains and Quang Nam forests against the Province enemy’s modern weapons. Old Nam couldn’t help being fascinated by the wisdom of his Co Tu ancestors, who devised this strong armour. Among the forest’s trees, Tr`rang, T’cong, T’ Dui, and A muot are used the most, because their bark is tough and durable. Especially the Tr`rang bark, which lasts for decades without tearing or rotting. But because these trees usually grow

WARFARE only at the source of the Lang River, it takes much effort and time, sometimes weeks, to obtain. Making the bark armour is a job for Co Tu men. First, they have to scour the mountains to find the trees, and only trunks the size of an average man’s torso are chosen. They cut two lines around the tree and use sticks to evenly beat the bark between the lines until it detaches itself from the wood inside. The collected bark is then boiled, kept in water, dried and woven by strong hands into coats. But the Tr’rang’s bark has to be left the way it’s been taken from its trunk and sewed into a wearable form. It takes a Co Tu man almost a month to make his own armour. Old A Lang Pech, a childhood friend of elder Clau Nam, said that the armour is the symbol of maturity and dignity that every young Co Tu man dreams to possess. Tr’rang bark coat feels warm in winter and cool in summer, and its odour drives away mosquitoes and leeches. More-

Old Nam said that Co Tu people don’t exhaust the mountains and forests. They only take the bark in summer, so the tree’s wound heals quickly and in autumn, the tree would be covered with new bark. It’s also the time when the bark is clean and quick to dry. That’s why the two Tr`rang trees can still supply enough bark for Po Ning villagers. Elder Nam pulled out aged bark armour for the family to wear to demonstrate to his guests. In the upcoming festive events, the whole village will put on this armour to revive the scenes of ancient warriors fighting ferocious beasts and enemies to defend the people’s livelihood and peace.n * The Vietnamese version was printed on 2 November, 2014 on the Tien Phong website

over, it is believed that Tr’rang bark coat makes you invisible to the beasts. However, this tree is very rare. There are only two trees left up the Lang River.

Opposite, top: Clau Nam and his family in bark clothes. Photo: Nguyen Thanh Opposite, below: Making bark clothes. Photo: Tran Tan Vinh Left: A piece of bark. Photo: Tran Tan Vinh

STARTS AT

s somewhat of a foodie, I have long been intrigued by the culinary arts and learning more about the local cuisine wherever I am. I now live in Ho Chi Minh City, and, luckily, Vietnam certainly offers a lot to study. It is fairly common knowledge that Northern Vietnam’s often salty cuisine differs greatly from that of the South, where they tend to go heavy on the sweetness in their food preparation, but the country’s vast array of adventure fodder does not end there. Vietnam, which is about 70 per cent as large as California and 50 per cent the size of France, is divided into 58 districts, each with its own distinct local specialties, taste, and methods of preparing certain dishes. Recently, I visited Can Tho, the riverside town located in the heart of South Vietnam’s Mekong Delta. Can Tho is bestknown for its amazing floating markets, its luscious fruit, and the vibrant feel that the city gives off, thanks to its large student population. The aspect of Can Tho life that I was most interested in exploring during this trip was, however, its local cuisine. Because the city is surrounded by hundreds of kilometres of wetlands, dense forests, flora, and fauna, the city’s cuisine has become known both for its fresh fruit, imbued with extra sweetness and flavour due to ideal growing conditions, and its freshly obtained meats, which range from the ‘normal’ meats, such as pork, to exotic eats such as snake. Upon my arrival, I decided to dive into the local cuisine immediately and find out first-hand what the ‘grittier’ side of Can Tho’s food offerings are really like. I de-

Snake follows mous bated my options. Preferring to explore independently, I do not regularly enlist in guided tours. But in this instance, I reasoned, a tour with a couple of seasoned locals might have been my only way to quickly gain access to the city’s most exotic dining options. As I always say, anyone who cannot speak Vietnamese is unable to experience about 70 per cent of what the country has to offer, and, unfortunately, I knew this would be one of those cases. It does not help, either, that I do not ride a motorbike. It was for this reason that I was most happy when I met two tour guides, both of whom had lived in Can Tho all their lives, were incredibly friendly, and spoke nearly flawless English. I had chosen to go with the ‘exotic’ food tour rather than simply the ‘normal’ food tour, and I felt confident after meeting the guides that they would be able to show me and my five fellow tourists some authentic places to get traditional Can Tho food. Our group set out from the hotel at 6.30 p.m. We began our trek through the city streets, all made up of charming alleyways and quiet avenues, none of which are disrupted by the loud and hazardous traffic that plagues much of Saigon, Danang, and Hanoi. Although the streets were not busy, the city was still spirited and exciting, thanks to the lush parks, colourful lights and crowds of smiling friends and families

28 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

we passed. As we strolled by a lady selling live rabbits out of a cage by the side of the street, one of our guides announced to the group that our first stop would be a shop where we could eat nem nướng – fermented pork with rice noodles, lettuce, thin banana slices, pineapple, basil, mint, and coriander, all wrapped in rice paper. I was a bit disappointed when I learned what the first dish would be, because I had hoped for more out-of-the-ordinary delicacies when I had booked the ‘exotic food tour,’ but I changed my mind once the food arrived and I tasted it. True to Can Tho food's reputation for being exceedingly fresh, the vegetables, which comprised a large portion of each wrap, were absolutely bursting with tanginess and sweetness. The pork itself was cooked to perfection, and the fermentation had given it a delectably tart yet succulent flavour. I have always appreciated the common tendency of Vietnamese dishes of allowing the eater to literally add his own flavour to his dining experience by assembling his own meal with fresh ingredients provided at the table, and this nem nướng certainly undid the initial disappointment I had felt about it. Every crunchy bite of my wrap was not only a brilliant circus of fresh and zingy flavours and textures, but it also brought with it the reminder that I had created that specific flavour myself. In my opinion, that knowl-

e after pig edge simply makes food taste better. Once we had finished a few wraps each and paid the bill (which was surprisingly low, even compared to the already-inexpensive Saigon), we headed down the street to our next stop. Again, the shop did not sell the more ‘outlandish’ delicacies that we would be introduced to later on the tour, but it did sell something unique to Can Tho: a dish called bánh cống. Bánh cống are small cakes made mainly from rice flour, mung bean, onions, and spices. They each have a large shrimp cooked into their centres that adds decorative flair (a large component of many Vietnamese dishes) and a bit of flavour. I found the bánh cống to be dry and lacking in flavour, even after wrapping the cakes in lettuce and dipping them in fish sauce. Many Can Tho natives, however, consider bánh cống a delicacy. Our next stop was right across the street from the shop selling bánh cống, and I was delighted to hear we would be trying chuột nướng – grilled mouse. Finally, something I had heard about but never had the chance to try. The tour group noshed on some appetizers, which consisted of stir fried tofu and beef or eggplant, respectively, before the main dish was served. As soon as the mouse arrived, I dug in eagerly. I was disappointed to find the meat difficult to eat quickly because it was riddled with bones, another quality common to Vietnamese

meats that I still need to get used to. Unfortunately, the meat that was there was displeasingly dry, and the taste was nothing special – reminiscent of chicken, but gamier. I ate a few bites to get a taste for the dish, but the fact that I could wow my friends and family by telling them I had eaten mouse kept me eating more than the taste of the food itself. Besides, I wanted to save my appetite for what one of our guides told us would be our next course – barbecued snake. The snake was served to us at a place several blocks away from where we had eaten the mouse. I would call the eating spot a cafe, but it was only a line of plastic tables and stools set out on the sidewalk. Luckily, the air was cool and clean, and there were no groups of men engaging in ‘nhậu’ (when Vietnamese men get together to get drunk, talk, and sometimes play cards), so it was a very pleasant evening to sit out on the sidewalk. I was happy when I found that our snake had been divided into two dishes: xúc xích rắn (snake sausage) and rắn nướng (grilled snake). The sausage, which was most likely processed and which one would not have known contained snake unless told so beforehand, was the group favourite. It was satisfyingly salty and well-spiced, and, because it did not contain bones, the bite-size balls it had been cooked into could easily be popped into the mouth and devoured. My personal preference of the two snake dishes, however, was the grilled snake. Complete with the snake's scaly skin and the bones, both of which had to be removed with either the hands or the teeth before digging in, the

dish provided a unique flavour and texture that the sausage did not. While the sausage had had the consistency of burger and had reCan Tho minded me of alligator sausage by its taste, the grilled snake was rubbery, more like calamari, and had an interesting and savoury flavour redolent of something between fish and pork. Both courses were eaten with chopsticks, and they proved to be my favourite eats of the night. After we had eaten our fill of snake, we began back towards the hotel where the tour had started. On the way, we stopped for dessert – xôi ngọt (sweet sticky rice), my favourite Vietnamese sweet street treat. The friendly lady who served it to us scooped a generous ladle-full of the sticky rice out of the steel vat she had set up over a flame on the sidewalk, mixed the rice with sugar, heaped the mixture into a folded pouch made of rice paper, and wrapped the whole thing in a sweet pancake, similar to something one might find at IHOP. Although the rice in the vat came in several different colours and flavours, I chose to buy two wraps of the yellow coconut-flavoured rice. The final product was absolutely delicious, and it was a wonderfully savoury and satisfying way to top off a night of enticing and often intriguing local food.n

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY DUSTIN KEMP

Opposite left: Fried field mouse Opposite right: Tofu cooked with pork Left: Grilled snake Right: Bánh cống

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

• 29

DESTINATION

Photo: Do Huu Tien

Tam Giang Lagoon

The simple life Rustic lagoon oﬀers a taste of its storied past

uring the era of Emperor Minh Mang, Tam Giang Lagoon went by the names Thien Hai, Hac Hai and Hat Hai, which means ‘Shallow Ocean’. The latter name really holds true for anyone who’s come here to greet the dawn or watch the sunset on the vast waters of undulating ripples, see the junks going upstream and downstream casting nets or view scenes of the lives of fishermen on the lagoon. The Tam Giang-Cau Hai Lagoon system is considered one of the largest salt marshes in Southeast Asia. This is precisely the region that regulates the climate between two sandy areas, moderates the floods, and limits the danger of the delta getting waterlogged. Tam Giang-Cau Hai Lagoon functions to maintain the groundwater of the delta along the banks and the sandy regions along the seacoast. It maintains the people’s daily source of water and is the

BY KIM NGAN

place that restores the water quality before it flows out to sea. Tam Giang Lagoon is freshwater during the flood season and brackish during the dry season. Because of this, the aquatic environment here is extremely plentiful; many aquatic and marine species live here. The lagoon is a source of precious resources for the fishermen who exploit it for their livelihood. Tam Giang Lagoon was mentioned in Le Quy Don’s ‘Phu Bien Tap Luc’ (‘Miscellaneous Records of Consoling [the People of] the Frontier’). The Nguyen Dynasty’s National History Agency also mentioned Tam Giang Lagoon in the ‘Dai Nam Nhat Thong Chi’ (Complete Gazetteer of Dai Nam), which primarily talked about the formation and hazardous wild features of the place. Among common folk, the people pass on the famous folk song, ‘Loving you, I want to come, too/fearful of Ho Moor and fearful of

30 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

Tam Giang Lagoon.’ At that time, Tam Giang Lagoon was a broad land area flooded in water, full of mud, and inundated with unpredictable hazardous winds and waves. Boats going back and forth easily encountered calamities. Tam Giang Lagoon was moreover a place where thieving bandits hid themselves. Tam Giang-Cau Hai Lagoon is no longer desolate as in the past. In recent years, Thua Thien-Hue Province has invested in and developed the building up of the lagoon, as well as exploiting tourism. A Hue friend told me that Tam GiangCau Hai Lagoon is becoming an attractive tourism site for visitors. The traffic routes from Hue City down to Tam Giang Lagoon are now quite favourable, so at the end of the day and week many people frequently come here to enjoy specialties. Mr Dinh Tien Dung’s Dam Chuon (Dragonfly) Diner is one of the countless

DESTINATION

Photo: Pham Ba Thinh

eateries that lie on Tam Giang-Cau Hai Lagoon belonging to the Phu An Residential Zone of Phu Vang District in Thua ThienHue Province. The diner is made entirely out of bamboo and lies tottering on the water’s waves. The tables are low-set, while customers sit on mats or small cushions. The dishes here primarily consist of the shrimp and fish caught in the lagoon. Customers who come here enjoy the dishes while viewing the cloudy skies or the boundless waves. Before enjoying nature products, they get to have none other than the owner invitingly pour into their cups ‘tra trang’ or ‘white tea,’ which is a specialty distilled by the diner. A cup of Dam Chuon (Dragonfly Lagoon) liquor is refreshingly sweet and spreads throughout the body— warm and rich but not jolting. All one needs is to start off with a cup of ‘tra trang’ and the atmosphere of the meal comes alive. To the side on the diner wall a guitar is always placed. The diner’s owner related that he pioneered the diner on the lagoon a decade ago. The diner has remained simplistic and without alteration since its inception. Before engaging their meal, customers can have the owner show them how to cast

Photo: Dang Van Tran

The estuary where the Huong, Bo and O Lau rivers converge before going out to sea at Thuan An Harbour, Tam Giang Lagoon, which runs about 27km long with an area of 5,200ha. The Tam Giang-Cau Hai Lagoon system is a place rich in abundant plant and animal resources of first-rate value in the region of Southeast Asia. Recent investigative data reveals that 230 species of fish, 63 species of underwater animals, 43 species of algae, 70 species of birds, 15 species of sea egrets, 171 species of phytoplanktonand 37 species of zooplankton exist here. Among them, 30 species of fish are of economic value, consisting of 70 per cent of that exploited yearly. Tam Giang-Cau Hai has 34 species of migratory birds and 36 species of autochthon birds concentrated in the region of O Lau and Dai Giang harbours. small nets or look at bamboo traps with which he catches the fish and shrimp. In order to get to the diner, customers have to take a boat from the lagoon’s bank and meander past the bordering fences around shrimp and fish nurseries for about 15-20 minutes. That’s sufficient time to take pictures of the scenery and activities on the lagoon. The eye’s purview of the surface of the lagoon seems endless and is interspersed by rows of jagged bamboo running up and down the lagoon. Every once in a while, narrow fish lookout towers appear,

adorned with several altars draped in red cloth that lie precariously perched atop the bamboo stalks. At present, there are ten Dam Chuon Diners. Some diners invest a billion dongs to build and decorate floating restaurants that hold up to a hundred customers. Mr Dung’s grass diner only holds, at most, 2030 customers at a time. Foreign tourists, too, frequently choose Mr Dung’s diner to eat, drink, and take in the landscape.n *The Vietnamese version was printed on 29 November, 2014 on Nguoi Lao Dong website

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

• 31

WHAT THE PAPERS SAY Environment, said it belongs to the Canxedon variety, which has been formed in the process of geological weathering.

Reward for those reporting littering, tourist bothering

Vietnam to build nature museum system

Tuoi Tre News, 23 January Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung has given the go-ahead for a project to develop the Vietnam National Museum of Nature into a system of facilities by 2025. The Vietnamese Academy of Science and Technology had proposed such a project and the premier has already approved it, according to the government’s news portal. The existing Vietnam National Museum of Nature, located in Hanoi, will be turned into a leading research institution that plays a leading role in helping other museums regarding research, collection, preservation, and exhibition of specimens.

Rock ‘detained’ in central Vietnam

tuoitrenews.vn, 28 February Police in the Central Highlands province of Dak Nong are holding a huge precious piece of rock weighing up to 30 tons, recently excavated by a farmer in Dak Mil District while gardening, local authorities reported. The value of the piece of rock is estimated at dozens of billions of dong (VND1 billion is equivalent to roughly $47,000), Hoang Xuan Vinh, a senior official at the district People’s Committee, said. Regarding the value of the rock, Nguyen Huu Trung, head of the Mineral Office under the provincial Department of Natural Resources and 32 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

tuoitrenews.vn, 1 March Doan Ngoc Son, deputy chair of the Hai Chau District People’s Committee, said on Saturday that his committee will pay natives and tourists VND200,000 ($9.32) for each piece of accurate information on such behavior as littering, beggary, pestering tourists to buy wares, and unauthorized advertising in public places. The informants will also be lauded in other forms, Son said. He added that the local People’s Committee is poised to form a rapid action team which will operate all day long and set up a hotline to receive such information, starting this month. Upon receipt of the information, the team will impose fines on the perpetrators.

Rips along beaches bathers in peril

put

tuoitrenews.vn, 1 March Two gorgeous beaches in central Vietnam are plagued by perilous rip currents, which have killed eight, including a foreign tourist, since January. Bai Dai and Bai Tay Beaches in Nha Trang are home to the highest concentration of rips in Vietnam and most of them can be identified with the naked eye, Dr Le Dinh Mau, deputy head of the Oceanography Institute noted. The beach sees the most vibrant rip activity during the transition time between summer and winter each year, he added.

Curdled oil found again tuoitrenews.vn, 3 March

In early March, beaches in Vung Tau were covered with tons of clots of curdled oil that has become an annual phenomenon whose cause has yet to be identified. According to the Department of Natural Resources and Environment of Ba Ria-Vung Tau, the oil clots, a hazardous waste, cannot be re-used and must be collected for destruction. The appearance of curdled oil along the coast of the province has taken place each of the past several years, usually during March and April, when the wind changes its direction from northeast to southwest.

US to provide for UXO removal

tuoitrenews.vn, 3 March This year the U.S. government will grant $8 million for clearing unexploded ordnance (UXO) left over in the central Vietnamese province of Quang Tri, Rose Gottemoeller, Under-Secretary of State for Arms Control and International Security for the U.S. State Department said. Over the past 20 years, with funding from the U.S. government, non-governmental organizations have helped clear 8,399 hectares of land in Quang Tri and safely removed and destroyed 556,448 UXOs. UXO-related accidents kill 1,500 people and maim another 2,300 every year.

Hanoi to build ‘smoke-free’ areas

tuoitrenews.vn, 4 March The Hanoi government has requested that competent agencies take action to build models of smoke-free environments, including tourist sites and workplaces, for the sake of society and health. The Vietnamese capital city will make available several non-smoking models, including ‘smoke-free tourist sites’, ‘smoke-free restaurants and hotels’, and ‘smoke-free offices’.

WHAT THE PAPERS SAY Similar models will be built in other public places such as trade centres, Hoan Kiem Lake, the Old Quarter, and others. Such smokeless models will contribute to promoting a civilized lifestyle in public places and bring beautiful images of the capital city – one of the country’s leading attractions – to both domestic and international visitors, the local government said.

Quang Binh may delay high cave fees

Viet Nam News, 30 January The Vietnam Administration of Tourism has suggested Quang Binh Province postpone any increase in the price of entrance tickets to local caves. The move was made to settle opposition from travel agencies against the price hike. Several weeks ago, authorities in the central province announced that cost of visiting the caves would be doubled and the new price of entrance ticket would be applied early in the New Year. The decision angered hundreds of travel agents across the country, as tour programmes had been already sold according to the old prices. They found it difficult to explain to foreign tourists that the Vietnamese tourism mindset was that ‘more visitors meant higher costs’.

Salt water intrusion threatens delta rice crops

Viet Nam News, 3 March Saline intrusion is threatening thousands of hectares of rice crops in many coastal areas in the Cuu Long (Mekong) Delta. In Soc Trang Province, saline intrusion has occurred most severely in Long Phu District's Long Phu, Tan Hung and Tan Thanh communes and Long Phu town. Many rice plants that are blooming are facing a severe shortage of water. The district Agriculture and Rural Development Bureau, said this year's saline intrusion had occurred a month earlier compared to normal years. It has prepared measures to maintain fresh water, but canals are silted up and cannot store water, he said. In Tien Giang Province, salinity intrusion appeared 20 days early compared to last year,

causing a shortage of fresh water for nearly 30,000 ha of rice in Go Cong Dong, Go Cong Tay and Cho Gao districts.

Allies to fight wildlife crime

Viet Nam News, 3 March A new alliance formed to end wildlife crime, especially rhino horn trafficking, was launched on 2 March. Officials of the newly launched Operation Game Change (OGC) project announced it would be run by the US Agency for International Development (USAID) and the Biodiversity Conservation Agency under the Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment. Apart from forging a new alliance against wildlife crime, the project would raise public awareness and spark a reduction in demand for illegal wildlife, while simultaneously improving bilateral and global ties in environmental security, officials said. The launch marked Vietnam's observance of the World Wildlife Day (3 March).

Bitexco Tower is among ‘most innovative buildings’

www.thanhniennews.com, 25 February Bitexco Financial Tower, the tallest skyscraper in Ho Chi Minh City, has been named in a list of the 50 most innovative buildings of the last 15 years. According to the Council of Tall Buildings, the Chicago-based organization of architects and designers, the buildings included in the list had to challenge the ‘traditional typology of tall buildings in some way, through innovation in form, design, façade, environmental approach, or technologies’. In 2013, the tower was also selected by CNN as one of the world's 25 greatest skyscrapers and icons of construction.

Phu Quoc named among top honeymoon places

www.thanhniennews.com, 28 February British popular travel site Rough Guides has named Vietnam’s biggest island Phu Quoc among the world’s best honeymoon destinations. The top-20 list describes the country’s southern island as one of the most appealing

honeymoon islands among abundant candidates in Asia. The site suggested visitors to go beyond Phu Quoc to the ‘unspoilt’ An Thoi islands to the south, which have ideal waters for snorkelling. Other honeymoon paradises listed include Treasure Beach of Jamaica, Santorini of Greece, Buenos Aires of Argentina, KwaZuluNatal of South Africa, Venice of Italy, and Bagan of Myanmar.

72-year-old Japanese photographer travels Vietnam to capture birds www.thanhniennews.com, 3 March Ohsaku Eiichirou, 72-year-old Japanese photographer, spent two weeks visiting Vietnam during the Lunar New Year holiday and added to his portfolio nearly 400 new photos of 40 bird and 15 butterfly species in Vietnam. He spent most of his time taking photos at Cat Tien National Park and in Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province. Asked about differences between birds in Japan and Vietnam, Eiichirou pointed out a sad thing that he has observed. ‘Birds in Vietnam are very afraid of humans and can sneak away very fast. I think it is because many people here often keep them in cages and hunt them for food.’

Vietnam considers vehicle confiscation to curb drunk driving

Thanh Nien News, 4 March Drunk drivers in Vietnam with high blood alcohol levels could have their vehicles taken away permanently under a new rule being considered by the government. The rule, proposed by the National Traffic Safety Committee, states that police officers can confiscate cars and motorbikes from drivers with high concentrations of blood alcohol, exceeding 80 mg per 100 ml of blood, or of breath alcohol, exceeding 0.4 mg per litre. These drivers will also have their licenses suspended for two years and will have to retake another driving test after that. Currently, vehicles of drunk drivers can only be impounded for a maximum of 30 days. The new penalties are expected to be approved this month.

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

• 33

EVENTS HANOI

TRADITIONAL PERFORMANCES Cheo singing performances Cheo, a kind of popular opera / traditional music, is shown at 8 p.m. every Friday at the Kim Ma Theater, 71 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi. English interpretation offered. Price: VND150,000 per person. Tel: (04) 3764-8079/ 0904549-579 (Ms Ngoan) Ancient folk form Quan họ is a folk song form that originated in the northern province of Bac Ninh in the 13th century. The form took on elements of other genres as it spread throughout the country, incorporating a dialogue style of singing in the 18th century, the period when Vietnamese literature blossomed. As a folk art with a highly collective nature, Quan họ songs alternate from group to group with singers keeping up the conversation by exchanging songs. There is no accompanying instrumental music. Bac Ninh Quan Ho folk music company offers Quan họ performances on request; an hour costs around VND30 million. Performance venues can also be requested. Contact Mr Quy Trang, head of Bac Ninh Quan Ho folk music company, at mobile 0913-073-326. Street songs of the poor and blind Every Saturday night Hát xẩm is a minimalist style of Vietnamese singing, traditionally performed by the poor and the blind and especially wanderers, usually accompanied with a simple đàn nhị (two-string violin) or đàn bầu (single-string zither). Hát xẩm is a Vietnamese blues from the 13th century. It is making a comeback, after several decades. Artists at the Centre for Research on and Development of Vietnamese Music now perform xẩm at Dong Xuan Market, in the Old Quarter of Hanoi, every Saturday night. Free. Ca truø Ca trù, an ancient Vietnamese musical form with a singer accom-

panied by three-string đàn đáy and other instruments, is performed at 87 Ma May Street, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, at 8 p.m. every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, by artists from Ca Tru Thang Long Club, www.catruvietnam.net. Price: $10 (VND210,000). Reservation is necessary. Tel: 01 223 266 897 Ca tru Thang Long Every Thursday night Fans of Vietnamese ca tru, or ceremonial singing, flock to Quan De Temple, 25 Hang Buom St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi on every Thursday night to enjoy the unique genre's sweet melodies performed by the Thang Long ca tru band. The band includes 83year-old singer Nguyen Thi Chuc, the 88 year-old- dan day (longnecked lute-like instrument with three silk strings and 10 frets) player Nguyen Phu De, and their student, female singer Pham Thi Hue. During the performance, the trio performs seven ca tru songs and extracts, include Tieng Duong Tranh, which is considered the oldest song of the genre. Ticket: VND210,000; available at door.

a symbol for the Western. Circle and square are used as basic geometrical elements signifying movement and peace. Goethe-Institut Hanoi, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi. Tel: (04)3734-2251 Boat journey Till 25 March

What art is up to lately Until 9 October, 2015

An exhibition themed ‘Voyage’ by Japanese artist Miya, is on at Tan My Design Café, 61 Hang Gai St, Hanoi, till 25 March. In all of Miya’s works, a boat is painted as a symbol of a traveller who makes a journey of life. A boat can continue to travel forever and the travel is enriched by meeting various people and places. Free entrance.

EXHIBITIONS Art for all seasons Till 21 March A painting exhibition themed ‘By the window’ by artist Duong Thuy Duong, is on till 21 March at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. The artist draws her emotions of four seasons passing by the window. Free entrance.

Red River pottery Till 30 March

Messis Lunae Till 22 March The moon is a source of inspiration for husband-and-wife artists Christiane Campioni and Tobias Küster Campioni. Their ‘Harvest-Moon’ is an exhibition focused on Vietnam and displays at Goethe-Institut Hanoi till 22 March. The moon is reduced to a circle as the basic element and visually claimed in a square made of lacquer on metal. These materials are used in traditional Vietnamese lacquer painting. The utilization of metal is as

The exhibition titled ‘Contemporary Vietnamese Pottery’ is on at Heritage Space till 30 March to honour the essence of Vietnamese pottery in the Red River Delta Region, with the participation of artists Tran Quang Hai, Nguyen Hong Quang, Lan Huong, Gom Hai, Vu Thang, Vuong Quan and Nguyen Van Thang. The exhibition lasts till 30 March. Heritage Space, Dolphin Plaza, 17 Tran Binh St, My Dinh Ward, Hanoi

34 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

War stories From 14 April to 10 May On the occasion of 40th anniversary of Independence Day, L’Espace presents a photo exhibition of photographers working in the battle against America, including Doan Cong Tinh, Chu Chi Thanh, Mai Nam and Hua Kiem. The exhibition will last from 14 April to 10 May at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi. Tel: (04) 39362164. Free entrance.

Vietnam Fine Arts Museum presents an exhibition, ‘Modern Arts’ by various artists till 9 October, 2015. The exhibition includes 28 artworks of oil painting, lacquer painting, silk painting, paper painting, synthetic material and sculpture. The museum hopes to give the audiences a comprehensive overview about the developing modern art of Vietnam through the richness of its styles and materials. Vietnam Fine Arts Museum, 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3733-2131. Open: 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee: VND20,000 MUSIC Rites of Spring 13 and 14 March A Spring Gala 2015 Concert and Ballet will be performed at 8 p.m. on 13 and 14 March at the Hanoi Opera House with People’s Artist Pham Anh Phuong, artistic director; conductor Dong Quang Vinh; Hanoi International Choir and artists from the Orchestra of the Vietnam National Opera and Ballet. Tickets: VND200,000, VND350,000, VND500,000. All

tickets available at Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi, tel: (04) 39330113 or can book online at ticketvn.com. Quintessential German 12 and 13 March On the occasion of the visit of German Foreign Minister FrankWalther Steinmeier and the 40th anniversary of German-Vietnamese diplomatic relations, the Goethe-Institut Hanoi will hold a Hip-Hop performance by German and Vietnamese dancers, including Raphael Hillebrand and S.I.N.E Crew at Labour Theatre at 8 p.m. on 12 and 13 March. Artistically innovative lighting design and sound technology will provide an extraordinary audio-visual experience. Free tickets are available from 5 March, 2 p.m. at Goethe-Institut Hanoi, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi, tel: (04)3734-2251 and Labour Theatre, 42 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. Rising sun dancers 14 and 15 March The Japan Foundation Centre for Cultural Exchange in Vietnam presents Japanese dance performances at 8 p.m. on 14 and 15 March at Youth Theatre. The show includes three groups; ‘Moreno Funk Sixers’, ‘Memorable Moment’ and ‘90’s’, performing Jazz, Hip-Hop, Break, House, and Pop and Lock. Free ticket distribution from 2 p.m. on Thursday 5 March onward at The Japan Foundation Centre for Cultural Exchange in Vietnam, 27 Quang Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi, (9 a.m. to 6 p.m., closed Sunday) and Youth Theatre, 11 Ngo Thi Nham St, Hanoi. Accomplished pianist to perform Till 28 March At 8 p.m. on 28 March, Cao Thanh Lan will play French music with preludes by Debussy and Messiaen at L’Espace. She is a brilliant pianist who plays a range from classical to contemporary music. She graduated from the Royal Conservatory of Brussels

and Cologne and won numerous awards at national and international competitions in Europe and Asia. Ticket: VND120,000 at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3936-2164 Concert series continues 20 and 21 March

‘Subscription Concert vol.78’ will be performed by conductor Kah Chun Wong, piano soloist Uehara Ayako and artists from the Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra at 8 p.m. on 20 and 21 March at Vietnam National Academy of Music, 77 Hao Nam St, Hanoi. Tickets: VND200,000, VND350,000, VND500,000 Call at 0983067996 or 0913489858 for free delivery.

THEATRE It’s alive! 18 March TNT Theatre presents the ‘Frankenstein – The Monster and the Myth’ at Hanoi Opera House 8 p.m. 18 March. The play is a Gothic comedy and a horror thriller that explores the darker themes within the myth. The play is directed by Paul Stebbings, who has explored this style of ‘serious’ Gothic comedy in productions such as The Murder of Sherlock Holmes, Brave New World, A Christmas Carol, The Wave and Dr Jekyll & Mr Hyde, which have been hugely successful, winning prizes at the Edinburgh Festival and performing in over forty countries in Europe and Asia. ‘Frankenstein’ incorporates music and sound effects by noted composer Paul Flush that weave through the drama in the manner of a film score. Frankenstein is perhaps our most potent symbol for our fear of

a future beyond human control. Ticket prices: VND600,000. Students and pupils enjoy a half price. Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3933-0113

FESTIVAL Longest-running Till May The Huong Pagoda festival (at Huong Son Commune, My Duc Dist., Hanoi), is the Vietnam’s longest-running festival. It starts 24 February until mid May. Every year, tens of thousands of pilgrims and visitors come to petition the gods for luck, wealth and happiness in the numerous pagodas scattered around the mountainous area. A visit to the pagoda includes a boat ride through winding streams and hours of mountain-climbing. The main pagoda, Thien Tru (Heaven’s Kitchen), was built in 1686. The most popular destination is Huong Tich cave, which contains a great many altars honouring a variety of deities. There will be crowds of people and hawkers in the pagoda; beware of scams such as over-priced drinks and demands for big tips from the boatwomen.

NAM DINH PROVINCE

Princess cult 21 to 26 April The annual Phu Day festival is going to be held from 21 to 26 April at Kim Thai Commune, Vu Bau District, Nam Dinh Province, about 100 km from Hanoi. Phu Day is the centre of the cult of Princess Lieu Hanh. In popular tradition, the princess is honoured as the Holy Mother, one of the four immortal Vietnamese heroes. The others are Tan Vien, who guards against floods; Giong, a legendary three-year old boy who became a national hero in the struggle against foreign invaders; and Chu Dong Tu, in his time a living example of hard work, building a happy and prosperous life despite early poverty. The main ceremonies of the Phu Day festival are the Holy Mother procession and a display of Chinese characters. Other highlights

EVENTS

include a wrestling competition, cock-fighting, human chess and performances of chau van. The Phu Day area has 19 temples and pagodas over three km.

NHA TRANG

Water Puppetry Afternoon and evening everyday Nha Trang Water Puppetry Theatre stages 16 performances per week, which depict stories of Vietnam’s pastoral life and history and re-create traditional dances. On the performing list are excerpts from famed plays and tunes in ‘tuong’ (traditional Vietnamese opera) and ‘bai choi’ (the central Vietnamese region’s folk game and art), folk songs and dances of ethnic communities living across the province, and traditional music performances. The theatre hosts three shows at 3 p.m., 5 p.m. and 8 p.m. on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday and two shows at 3 p.m. and 7 p.m. on the remaining days. Nha Trang Water Puppetry Theatre, 46 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province.

HO CHI MINH CITY

EXHIBITIONS ‘DONG’ extension Till 28 March

‘The Leavers’ is an exhibition of new works by Brooklyn-based artist Trong Gia Nguyen. Nguyen will exhibit a series of paintings informed by his ongoing film project, DONG, an exploration of family history through the imperfect lens of memory. Galerie Quynh Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi St, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08)3824-8284

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

• 35

EVENTS

Gallery hours: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Tuesday â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Saturday and by appointment

The movement of wood Till 29 June Wood-flux â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a wooden flow â&#x20AC;&#x201C; seems to be a contradictory phrase-for how can something as sturdy as wood also stream so fervently? Such a concept indeed recalls a Japanese genre of woodblock prints on silk and paper â&#x20AC;&#x201C; â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Ukiyo-eâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; â&#x20AC;&#x201C; meaning â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;pictures of the floating worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Inspired by the calibre of Ukiyo-e woodblock and the textile pattern of Phuong Myâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spring Summer 2015 collection, artist Nguyen Huu Tram Kha showcases various fascinations of a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Wood-fluxâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; at Phuong My Flagship Store, 81 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, till 29 June. THEATRE Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s alive! 20 and 21 March TNT Theatre presents the

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Frankenstein â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Monster and the Mythâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House 11 a.m. 20 March and 8 p.m. 20 and 21 March. See the Hanoi section for more information. Ticket prices: VND600,000 for adults (night performance) and VND500,000 for adults (day performance). Students and pupils enjoy a half price. HCMC Opera House, 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, Dist.1. Tel: (08)38299976 AO! AO Show is on at Opera House at

6 p.m. on 17, 18, 26, 30, 31 Mach and 8 p.m. on 14, 28 March. A O Show is a new kind of art performance, acknowledged globally as new type of circus. 60 minutes of using bamboo and basket boats, traditional music of Don Ca Tai Tu, visual creations and lighting, and audiences see themselves walking on a small walkway of sweet and breezy Southern Vietnam, and wandering past the surging dunes of the Southern Central only to find themselves front of a lotus swamp. Tickets range from VND530,000 to VND1,250,000. Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3829-9976

OTHER HCMC TV 11 March CNNGo is a monthly 30minute television show featuring global destinations, bringing views from insiders on what dy-

namic cities in Asia really look like. The CNNGo episode featuring Ho Chi Minh City will air on 11 March at 4.30 p.m. (Vietnam time), with an encore telecast at 12.30 p.m. on 14 March and another repeat at 7.30 p.m. on 15 March. CNNGo kicks off the journey on the back of a bike with Vietnam Vespa Adventures, which allows tourists to see snapshots of local life and tucked-away spots. Then local rapper Suboi will introduce viewers to her favorite places that have hints of old Saigon life, including a familystyle meal at Cuc Gach Quan. Historian Tim Doling will explain the changing face of Ho Chi Minh City and show the audiences a hidden part of history in the middle of the city. Finally, CNNGo takes a quick trip down to Con Dao Island, one of the newest tourist destinations in Vietnam.

$ ILUVW LPSUHVVLRQ ODVWV IRUHYHU $ ILUVW LPSUHVVLRQ ODVWV IRUHYHU

$:$5' 2) (;&(//(1&(

)LUVW +RWHO

$6 +21285(' %< 285 *8(676 )LUVW +RWHO 1HZ :LQJ

)LUVW +RWHO

+RWOLQHV +RWOLQHV 36 â&#x20AC;˘ VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

VALUE FOR MONEY Imperial Hotel

HOTEL

8 Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3882-222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn Imperial Hotel has a promotion till 31 December. It costs VND4,725,000 ($225) per room per night in a Deluxe River View Room, including one-way transfer from or to Phu Bai Airport, breakfast, a dinner with a bottle of wine, and two 60-minute aroma oil therapy or foot relaxing therapies. An extra night is VND1,470,000 per room. The prices include service charge and VAT.

Novotel Danang Premier Han River 36 Bach Dang St, Hai Chau Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3929-999 www.novotel-danang-premier.com

Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Road, Hue Tel: (054) 3885-461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa

Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa is offering a 10 per cent discount off for those who book one night, a 15 per cent discount off for those who book two nights and a 20 per cent discount off for those who book three nights. The promotion runs till 30 April.

Grand Mercure Danang

Novotel Danang Premier Han River is offering ‘Relax, Restore and Revitalise Package’ at VND2,949,000++ per room per night, including a 60-minute body massage and breakfast. The promotion runs till 31 December.

RESORTS AND SPAS

Mai Chau Ecolodge

Na Thia Village, Na Phon Commune, Mai Chau Dist, Hoa Binh Province Tel: (0218) 3819-888

Lot A1, Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3797-777 Grand Mercure Danang has a 120-minute spa package in March at VND 1,190,000++, including a choice of a 60-minute body scrub or a 30-90 minute body massage and a soothing 60 minute hand and foot massage.

Hoi An Beach Resort

1 Cua Dai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-011 Hoi An Beach Resort runs a two night ‘Spa package’ till 31 December, 2015. VND5,210,000++ per room for single occupancy, VND6,460,000++ per room for double occupancy and VND9,110,000++ per room for triple occupancy. The package includes breakfast, a spa treatment with a choice of a 30minute body scrub or body wrap, a choice of 60-minute body massage (Swedish, Asian, Western, Vietnamese, Balinese or Thai) and a 30-minute mini-facial, 10 per cent discount on food, beverage and laundry, free use of bicycles and kayak, shuttle bus to Hoi An Ancient town, Tai chi lesson on the beach or garden.

Palm Garden Beach Resort & Spa

Mai Chau Ecolodge is offering a ‘Honey Moon Package’ till 31 March. It cost $380 (VND7,980,000) per night per room in a Deluxe Room overlooking paddy fields. The package includes round-trip transfer from Hanoi to the hotel, breakfast, lunch, romantic dinner with candle light, 2 glasses of ‘Honeymoon Cocktail’, a 45-minute relaxing massage for two. The price includes service charge and VAT.

roundtrip airport transfers or a meal or a 60minute body massage and a voucher of VND300,000 for body massage. The promotion runs till 31 May and is not applicable on public holidays.

Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3927-927 www.palmgardenresort.com.vn Palm Garden Beach Resort & Spa is offering a 38 per cent discount on Superior Garden View Rooms and Deluxe Garden View Rooms for those who book at least two nights. The rate before discount is VND3,900,000++ per night in a Superior Garden View Room and VND4,500,000++ per night in a Deluxe Garden View Room. The rates include a choice of a

38 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

Le Lai St, Ward 5, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3555-888 www.anamandara-resort.com Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa is offering a ‘Dalat Highland Retreat’ with the price starting from VND2,790,000 per room per night in a villa with breakfast, daily morning yoga class, a choice of lunch, dinner or a 60minute spa treatment. The promotion is valid till 31 May and applies for those who book at least two nights. The price includes tax and service charge. Surcharge is VND630,000 per room per night on public holiday and weekend (Friday to Sunday).

Binh An Village Resort Dalat

Tuyen Lam Lake, Ward 4, Dalat Tel: (063) 3800-999 www.binhanvillage.com Binh An Village Resort Dalat has a room promotion for those who book at least two nights from 3 to 6 April at VND3,719,000++ per room per night with breakfast, Easter Brunch, a set lunch or a dinner, a half-day excursion to Dalat city, roundtrip airport transfers, and Easter egg hunt activity for children.

La Veranda Resort

Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 7, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3982-988 La Veranda Resort has a promotion for those who book at least two nights till 31 October. The price starts from VND8,170,000 per room for two nights for two with a full-day snorkel tour, a lunch on the boat or the beach, round-trip airport transfers and free sport activities and bicycle use. The price includes service charge and VAT.

Dalat Edensee Resort

Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat, Lam Dong Province

Tel: (063) 3831-515 www.dalatedensee.com Dalat Edensee Resort is offering a ‘Dalat in Love’ package till 3 October. The cost is VND5,880,000 for two nights’ stay for two in Mimosa Superior Room with daily breakfast, a dinner, two vouchers for a 60-minute spa treatment and round-trip airport transfers. The price includes service charge and VAT. An extra night is VND2,100,000 per room for two.

May Man Restaurant, at the Fortuna Hotel Hanoi, has ‘All You Can Eat Dim Sum’, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday to Saturday, at VND298,000++ for adults and VND149,000++ for children. ‘Sunday Dim Sum Brunch’, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. at VND318,000++ for adults and VND159,000++ for children. ‘A la carte Dim Sum’ during lunch and dinner at VND51,000++. Also, the restaurant serves Singapore-Style Chili Crab, including crab meat with sweet and savoury red-tangy sauce served with deep-fried mantou bread.

Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa

Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel

COOKING CLASSES

Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist, Danang Tel: (0511) 3981-234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com

Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa organizes Vietnamese Cuisine Cooking Classes by the resort’s chefs. Each class requires a minimum of two attendees and the fee is VND1,700,000 per person, or VND2,150,000 per person for a pre-class market visit. Classes can be arranged on any day between 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.

1 Le Thanh Ton St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-0500, www.hanoi.hilton.com

‘Discovering Spanish Cuisine’ at the Hilton Hanoi Opera on 20 March, from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. at VND700,000++.

Hotel Nikko Hanoi

84 Tran Nhan Tong St, Hai Ba Trung Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3822-3535 www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn

Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City

242 Tran Binh Trong St, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (08) 3839-7777 www.equatorial.com Orientica Seafood Restaurant, at the Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City, has a Vietnamese cooking class at VND940,000++ per person from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. Students can choose to prepare a menu with three choices, including: - Vietnamese crystal spring rolls or lotus stem salad with shrimp. - Imperial deep-fried spring rolls or shrimp mousse on sugar cane. -Stir-fried chicken with lemon grass and chili or stewed caramelized river pike in clay pot. A class requires at least two students.

FOOD PROMOTIONS

Fortuna Hotel Hanoi

6B Lang Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-3333 www.fortuna.vn

VALUE FOR MONEY

On 19 March, a thousand chefs on five continents will prepare a French meal to celebrate the excellence, diversity and modernity of French gastronomy, Gout de France. In Vietnam, 17 chefs, from Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh, Hue, Danang and Hoi An, are selected to participate. At the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, the executive chef Olivier Genique will prepare a French Cuisine Dinner at Le Beaulieu Restaurant. The price is VND2,500,000++.

The Press Club

Corner of 59A Ly Thai To and 12 Ly Dao Thanh St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-0888 www.hanoi-pressclub.com

On 19 March, the world will host fete French cuisine ‘Gout de France’ with the participation of about 1,000 chefs showcasing their skills to diners across five continents. In Hanoi, the executive chef Guillaume Guertin at The Press Club will create a French menu dinner that blends traditional and contemporary flavours including pan fried goose liver samosas with pear and fig, port wine balsamic vinegar; snail ravioli on fennel leek fondue; a spicy tuna tartar served with avocado, mango, cilantro sesame seeds potato chips and mint chocolate mousse tartlet and a passion fruit sorbet. The price is VND1,450,000++.

Novotel Nha Trang Hotel Taoli Chinese Restaurant, at the Hotel Nikko Hanoi, serves ‘All You Can Eat Dim Sum Menu,’ with more than 45 different varieties of dim sum at VND350,000++. Also, the restaurant offers Australian sea cucumber dishes, including braised sea cucumber with black mushroom and conpoy, braised sea cucumber with minced pork and pork tendon in clay pot, braised sea cucumber with fish maw and sliced abalone. The price is VND1,300,000++.

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi

15 Ngo Quyen St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-6919 www.sofitel-legend.com

50 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 6256-900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com

In March, the Square Restaurant, at the Novotel Nha Trang Hotel, serves buffet dinner in different theme concepts, including ‘Seashore Night’ from Sunday to Wednesday, ‘Beef & Burgundy’ on Thursday and ‘Nha Trang

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

• 39

VALUE FOR MONEY

Seafood Market’ on Friday and Saturday. The price is VND525,000++ per person. The restaurant is also offering ‘Come 3, Pay 2’.

Caravelle Hotel

19-23 Cong Truong Lam Son, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-4999 www.caravellehotel.com

Hotel Nikko Saigon

235 Nguyen Van Cu St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3925-7777 www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn La Brasserie Restaurant, at the Hotel Nikko Saigon, serves Seafood Dinner Buffet, 6 p.m. to 10.30 p.m. daily in March at VND1,100,000++, including free flow of house wine, beer, soft drinks, juices, coffee and tea.

New World Saigon Hotel

Café de l’Opera, at the Caravelle Hotel, is running ‘The Week of Wine and Cheese’, from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. from 9 to 15 March, with imported cheeses such as Tomme de Savoie, Saint Nectaire and Rouy, accompanied by bottles from France’s leading wine-growing regions. VND398,000++, including a selection of three cheeses, fresh bread and traditional condiments or VND850,000++, together with selection of three tasting wines.

76 Le Lai St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8888 Parkview at the New World Saigon Hotel serves Easter Buffet on 5 April, including roasted lamb and honey glazed ham along with seafood and a selection of salads, pastas, sizzling Asian dishes and a beautiful Easter dessert buffet. Also the hotel has organized a spectacular Easter egg hunt and egg painting corner. Easter Champagne Brunch is VND1,200,000, including free flow of Taittinger champagne, house wine, draft beer, soft drinks and juices. Easter lunch or dinner is VND910,000.

Saigon Café, at the Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, has ‘Oyster and Seafood’ every Friday night in March, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. The restaurant serves cooked crabs and tiger prawns on ice, prawn and broccoli in cocktail sauce, octopus salad and assorted handmade sushi with pickled ginger. There is a dedicated oyster bar of fresh French, Canadian and Halong Bay oysters with red shallot vinaigrette, Japanese soya dressing, lime, wasabi foam or Tabasco. The highlight is a wide range of mouth-watering choices from crab bisque spiked with XO cognac, sautéed prawn with XO sauce, and baked lobster topped with cheese sauce. Diners can also order to cook live flower crabs, scampi, Len snail in coconut sauce, prawn skewers, squid skewer, salmon and sea bass fillet and crocodile. VND1,050,000++ including free flowing house wine, coffee and tea.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza

17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1555

Pullman Saigon Centre

148 Tran Hung Dao Boulevard, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3838-8686

Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City 242 Tran Binh Trong St, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3839-7777 www.equatorial.com

Hotel Equatorial’s restaurants offer many food and beverage promotions in March. Orientica Seafood Restaurant, 9 a.m. to 2.30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday, serves ‘All you can eat’ Dim Sum at VND338,000++. 11.30 a.m. to 2.30 p.m., Monday to Friday, the restaurant has an a la carte Dim Sum menu. Chit Chat Restaurant, 6.30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday, a variety of seafood awaits diners at VND840,000++, including a free flow of wine, beer and soft drinks. Malt Scottish whisky tasting daily at Flo Lounge at VND650,000++.

In March, Cobalt Restaurant, at the Pullman Saigon Centre, serves traditional French cuisine 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., with two courses and a glass of wine. Guest can order either a starter with main course or main course with dessert. VND700,000++

Enjoy the cooking of Xavier Mathieu, Michelin star chef, at L’Olivier Restaurant, at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza from 17 to 21 March. ‘Emotion’ set menu for lunch at VND680,000++. ‘Magnifique’ set menu for lunch and dinner at VND1,650,000++. 11.30 a.m. – 2 p.m. for lunch and 6 p.m. – 11 p.m. for dinner.

Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers

The Grand Ho Tram Strip

88 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-2828

40 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

Phuoc Thuan, Xuyen Moc Dist., Ba Ria Vung Tau Province Tel: (064) 3788-888 www.thegrandhotram.com Coming Rio pool party at The Grand Ho Tram Strip from 2 p.m. till late on 21 March and enjoy Ho Chi Minh’s hottest Cuban band, swimwear contest, Caipirinha menu, Brazilian BBQ and Cuban Cigar station. VND 599,000 including free flow beverage and VND 1,499,000 including free flow beverage and BBQ dinner. Free transport to The Grand Ho Tram Strip from Ho Chi Minh City and Vung Tau City.

DIRECTIONS SAPA, HALONG, HAI PHONG EMERGENCIES Police: 113 Fire: 114 Ambulance: 115

SAPA

(TELEPHONE CODE: 020) Sapa is a former French hill station in northwestern Vietnam, in Lao Cai Province, near the Chinese border. A number of minority cultures including the H’mong, Dao and Tay live in villages in the countryside around Sapa. HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Cat Cat View Hotel 46 Fan Xi Pang St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-946 www.catcathotel.com VND735,000 to VND3,780,000 ($35 to $180) Cha Pa Garden Boutique Hotel & Spa 23B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3872-907 Email: hotelchapagarden@gmail.com

www.chapagarden.com From VND1,470,000 ($70) Chau Long Sapa Hotel

Topas Ecolodge Thanh Kim Ward, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (04) 3715-1005 reservation@topasecolodge.com www.topasecolodge.com From VND2,300,000 ($110) Victoria Sapa Resort and Spa Xuan Vien St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-522 Email: resa.sapa@victoriahotels.asia

www.victoriahotels.asia From VND3,657,000 ($172) RESTAURANTS Buffalo Bell Restaurant 25 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-455 Delta Restaurant 33 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-799 Fansipan Restaurant 23 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-556

HALONG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 033) With around 1,600 islands and islets in the Gulf of Tonkin, Halong Bay, about 170 km east of Hanoi, is well known for its limestone seascape. Overnight boat trips out of Halong City are a popular way to see it. HOSPITALS

Bai Chay Hospital Gieng Day Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-557 www.benhvienbaichay.vn

24 Dong Loi St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-245 Email: resa@chaulonghotel.com.vn www.chaulonghotel.com.vn From VND2,100,000 ($100) Holiday Sapa Hotel 16 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-874 Email: info@holidaysapa.com www.holidaysapa.com VND588,000 to VND2,100,000 ($28 to $100) Mường Thanh Sapa Hotel No 044, Ngu Chi Son, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3887-766 Email: sales@sapa.muongthanh.vn www.muongthanh.vn From VND900,000 ($43) Royal Hotel 54B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3771-131 Email: info@royalsapahotel.com www.royalsapahotel.com

Traditional Medicine Hospital Cot 8, Hong Ha Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3838-113 Vietnam-Sweden Hospital Thanh Son Ward, Uong Bi Commune, Halong Tel: (033) 3854-037 www.bvubqn.tk TRAVEL

Halong Tourism 1 Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-272 Quang Ninh Tourism Company Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-350 Syrena Cruises Hung Thang new urban area, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3847-043 Hanoi Sales Office: Syrena Tower, 3th Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-7214 Email: se@syrenacruises.com www.syrenacruises.com HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Asean Halong Hotel Hau Can St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3640-034 Email: sm@aseanhalonghotel.com www.aseanhalonghotel.com From VND1,600,000 ($76) Halong Hidden Charm Hotel Block 22D, Tuan Chau Villas, Halong Tel: (033) 3842-360 infor.halonghiddencharmhotel@gmail.com

www.hiddencharmhotel.com.vn From VND350,000 ($17) Halong Palace Hotel 1, Block 20 Dong Hung Thang, Hoang Quoc Viet St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3619-819 Email: info@halongpalacehotel.com www.halongpalacehotel.com From VND3,800,000 ($181) Halong Plaza Hotel 8 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-810 Email: info@halongplaza.com www.halongplaza.com VND1,500,000 to VND3,800,000 ($71 to $179) Heritage Halong Hotel 88 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-888 Email: saleheritagehl@gmail.com www.heritagehalonghotel.com.vn VND2,310,000 ($110)

equipped rooms, with many breathtaking views of Halong Bay RESTAURANTS

Co Ngu Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3511-363 Jumbo Vietnam Floating Restaurant 119 Le Thanh Tong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3624-888 Sea Food Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-822

Halong Gold Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-142

BARS & CAFÉS

Emeraude Café 6A Le Thanh Tong St, Hon Gai, Halong Tel: (033) 3849-266 www.emeraude-cruises.com Royal International Gaming Club and Villa Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-777

HAI PHONG CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 031) HOTELS, RESORTS

Mường Thanh Halong Hotel No.7, Block 20, East of Hung Thang, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3812-468/ (033) 3819-777 Email: info@halong.muongthanhhotel.vn www.muongthanhhotel.vn From VND1,400,000 ($67) Novotel Ha Long Bay 160 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-108 Email: info@novotelhalong.com.vn www.novotelhalongbay.com From VND2,625,000 ($125)

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Catba Princes Hotel

Saigon Halong Hotel Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-845 info@saigonhalonghotel.com www.saigonhalonghotel.com From VND950,000 ($45)

303 Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3888-899 Email: sale@catbaprinceshotel.com www.catbaprinceshotel.com From VND500,000 ($24) Catba Sunrise Resort Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3887-360 Email: info@catbasunriseresort.com www.catbasunriseresort.com From VND3,045,000 ($145)

StarCity Halong Bay Hotel

168 Halong St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-058 Email: sm1.north@och.vn www.starcityhalongbay.com In the centre of Halong, StarCity Halong Bay Hotel offers 152 well-

Avani Hai Phong Harbour View 12 Tran Phu St, Ngo Quyen Dist., Hai Phong Tel: (031) 3827-827 Email: haiphong@avanihotels.com www.avanihotels.com From VND2,772,000 ($132) ENTERTAINMENT

Do Son Casino Zone 3, Do Son town, Hai Phong Tel: (031) 3864-888

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

• 43

A Ba Dinh Square 1. B aD inh S quare Ba Dinh Square, Square, where where President President Ho Chi Vietnam’s Minh M inh declared declared V ietnam’s independence independence in historic SSeptember eptember 1945, is a ccomplex omplex of hist oric sit es, including Ho Chi M inh’s Mausoleum, Mausoleum, sites, Minh’s the One Pillar Pillar Pagoda, Pagoda, the P residential P alace Presidential Palace and the stilt house wher e the former former where P resident liv ed and worked. worked. Open: 7.30 – President lived 10.30 a.m. Tuesday Tuesday tto o Thursday, Thursday, 7.30 a.m. – 11 a.m. w eekends. weekends. 2. H oa L oP rison Hoa Lo Prison ‘La M aison Centrale’ Centrale’, the prison prison on Hoa Lo Lo Maison SStreet treet in Hanoi, w as built by by the FFrench rench in was 1896 and became the place place where where generagenerations of V ietnamese fr eedom fighters fighters were were Vietnamese freedom held ter, captured captured American American airmen airmen held.. La Later, w aited out the war war in this ccompound, ompound, which waited they nicknamed nicknamed the ‘Hanoi H ilton’. Open: 8 – Hilton’ 11.30 a.m., 1.30 – 4.30 p .m. daily p.m. daily.. Closed M onday. Monday.

CENTRE O

3. S ’s Cathedral Cathedral Stt Joseph Joseph’s FFresh resh missionar ies built this cathedral cathedral in the missionaries la te 19th century. century. The The small but beautiful late panes of stained glass were were cr eated in P aris created Paris in 1906. Also Also of note note is the or nate altar, altarr, with ornate its high g ilded sidewalls. sidewalls. Open: 5 a.m. tto o7 gilded p .m. M onday tto o SSaturday, aturday, 4 a.m. tto o7p .m. p.m. Monday p.m. Sunda Sundayy Opera House House 4. Hanoi Opera D esigned by by a French French ar chitect along the Designed architect lines of the Paris Paris Oper House, it is embel Operaa House, embel-lished with w onder ful G othic statuary. statuary. FFor or wonderful Gothic man decades, Hanoi Opera Opera House has been manyy decades, a centre centre ffor or theatre, theatre, traditional traditional music and danc e, symphonies, symphonies, traditional traditional and classical dance, music his, the lar gest theatre theatre in V ietnam, music.. TThis, largest Vietnam, w as ccompleted ompleted in 1911 on the site site of a lar ge was large pond beside Tay Tay Long Long City City ga te in to the gate into ancien Thang LLong. ong. ancientt capital of Thang Cot Co Co T ower 5. Cot Tower C ot Co Co Tower, Towerr, the so-called so-called Flag Flag Tower, Tower, is Cot no w part part of the Vietnam Vietnam M ilitary History History now Military M useum complex. complex. TThe he TTower ower was was built in Museum 1950, under the Nguyen Nguyen D ynasty,, with the Dynasty, help of FFrench rench engineers. engineers. The The tower tower has 36 flo wer-shaped windows. windows. A op of the flower-shaped Att the ttop ttower ower flies the flag of V ietnam. Open: 8 – Vietnam. 11.30 a.m., 1.30 – 4 p .m. daily. daily. Closed p.m. M onday and Friday. Friday. Monday

STREET GUIDE

Ba Trieu...................E3, E4 Bac Son.........................D1 Bach Dang.....................F2 Bach Mai........................E4 Bat Dan..........................E2 Bich Cau........................C2 Buoi................................A1 Cat Linh..........................C2 Cha Ca....................E1, E2 Cua Bac.........................D1 Cua Dong.......................D2

Da Tuong.......................E3 Dang Tat.........................D1 Dao Duy Anh.................D4 Dao Duy Tu.............E1, E2 Dien Bien Phu................D2 Doc Ngu.........................A1 Doi Can.............A1, B2, C2 Duong Thanh.................E2 Gam Cau........................E1 Giai Phong.....................D4 Giang Vo.....A3 ,B3 ,B2,C2

Hai Ba Trung.....E2, E3, F3 Ham Long......................E3 Han Thuyen....................F3 Hang Bac.......................E2 Hang Bo.........................E2 Hang Bong.....................E2 Hang Buom....................E2 Hang Can.......................E2 Hang Chuoi....................F3 Hang Cot........................E1 Hang Da.........................E2 Hang Dao.......................E2

Hang Dau.......................E1 Hang Ga.........................E2 Hang Gai........................E2 Hang Khay.....................E2 Hang Khoai....................E1 Hang Ma.........................E1 Hang Quat......................E2 Hang Trong....................E2 Hang Chieu....................E1 Hang Luoc......................E1 Hao Nam........................C2 Hoa Ma...........................F3

Hoang Dieu.............D1, D2 Hoang Hoa Tham............... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 Hoang Van Thu..............D1 Hoe Nhai........................E1 Hung Vuong............D1, D2 Huynh Thuc Khang........A3 Kham Thien.............C3, D3 Kim Ma..............A2, B2, C2 La Thanh.................B3, C3 Lang Ha..........................B3 Nguyen Chi Thanh.........A3

Le Dai Hanh...................E4 Le Duan............D2, D3, D4 Le Hong Phong.............D2 Le Lai..............................F2 Le Thai To.......................E2 Le Thanh Tong...............F3 Le Van Huu....................E3 Lieu Giai........................A2 Lo Duc......................F3, F4 Lo Su..............................F2 Luong Ngoc Quyen.......E2 Luong Van Can..............E2

OF HA NOI D

4 2

Ly Nam De..............E1, E2 Ly Quoc Su....................E2 Ly Thai To.......................F2 Ly Thuong Kiet........E3, F3 Mai Hac De..............E3, E4 Ngo Quyen.....................F3 Ngo Si Lien....................D2 Ngo Thi Nham................E3 Ngoc Ha.........................C1 Ngoc Khanh...................B2 Nguyen Canh Chan......D1 Nguyen Cong Hoa.........B2

Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ .................................E3, E4 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Huu Huan........ F2 Nguyen Khuyen.............D2 Nguyen Luong Bang.....C3 Nguyen Thai Hoc....C2, D2 Nguyen Thuong Hien......... ........................................D3 Nguyen Van To..............E2 Nha Chung.....................E2 Nha Tho.........................E2

Nui Truc..........................B2 Pham Dinh Ho................F3 Pham Ngu Lao...............F3 Phan Boi Chau.......D2, D3 Phan Chu Trinh..............F3 Phan Dinh Phung..........D1 Phan Huy Chu................F3 Pho Duc Chinh...............F3 Pho Hue...................E3, E4 Phu Doan.......................E2 Phung Hung............E1, E2 Quan Su..................E2, E3

Quan Thanh...................D1 Quang Trung...........E2, E3 Quoc Tu Giam...............D2 Son Tay..........................C2 Thai Phien......................E4 Thanh Cong...................B3 Thanh Nien....................D1 Tho Nhuom.............E2, E3 Thuy Khue.......................... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 To Hien Thanh...............E4 Tong Dan........................F2

Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Hung Dao................... ...........................D3, E3, F3 Tran Huy Lieu................B2 Tran Khanh Du...............F3 Tran Khat Chan..............F4 Tran Nguyen Han..........F2 Tran Nhan Tong......D3, E3 Tran Nhat Duat..............E1 Tran Phu........................D2 Tran Quang Khai............F2 Tran Qui Cap.................D2

Tran Quoc Toan......D3, E3 Tran Thanh Tong............F3 Tran Xuan Soan................. .................................E3, E4 Trang Thi........................E2 Trang Tien................E2, F3 Trieu Viet Vuong......E3, E4 Trinh Hoai Duc...............C2 Tue Tinh.........................E3 Yen Phu..........................E1 Yersin..............................F4 Yet Kieu..........................D3

DIRECTIONS HANOI HANOI

(TELEPHONE CODE: 04) EMBASSIES

Finland 31 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-6788

Algeria 13 Phan Chu Trinh St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3865

France 57 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3944-5782

Argentina 41A Ly Thai To St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5263

Germany 29 Tran Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3836

Australia 8 Dao Tan St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-7755 Austria 53 Quang Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-3050 Bangladesh Villa D6B 5 – Khu Vuon Dao Ngo 675, Lac Long Quan St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3771-6625 Belarus 52 Ho Tay St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3829-0494 Belgium Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-6179 Brazil T72-14 Thuy Khue St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-2544 Brunei Villa 8-9 No 44/8-44, 9 Van Bao St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3726-0001 Bulgaria 5 Nui Truc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-2908 Cambodia 71A Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-7636 Canada 31 Hung Vuong St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-5500 China 46 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3845-3736 Cuba 65 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4775 Czech Republic 13 Chu Van An St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi; Tel: (04) 3845-4131 Denmark 19 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-1888 Egypt 63 To Ngoc Van St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3829-4999

Hungary 12th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3771-5714 India 58-60 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-4990 Indonesia 50 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3353 Iran 54 Tran Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-2068 Iraq 66 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4141 Ireland 8th floor of Vincom Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu St, Ha Dong Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3974-3291 Israel 68 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-3141 Italy 9 Le Phung Hieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-6256 Japan 27 Lieu Giai St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3846-3000 Laos 22 Tran Binh Trong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4576 Libya 298B Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3379 Malaysia 43-45 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3734-3836 Mexico Coco Villa T-11, 14 Thuy Khue St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3847-0948 Mongolia 5 Van Phuc, Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3009 Myanmar 298A Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3369

46 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

Netherlands 6th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5650 New Zealand 63 Ly Thai To St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-1481 North Korea 25 Cao Ba Quat St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3008 Norway 8th Floor, Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3974-8900 Nigeria 44/1 Van Bao St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3726-3610 Palestine 6 Dang Van Ngu St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3852-4013 Philippines 27B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-7948 Poland 3 Chua Mot Cot St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-2027 Romania 5 Le Hong Phong St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-2014 Russia 191 La Thanh St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: 3833-6991 South Africa 31 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3936-2000 South Korea 4th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5111 Spain 15th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3771-5207

MEDICAL CENTRES Acupuncture Institute 49 Thai Thinh St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3563-1069 Hanoi French Hospital 1 Phuong Mai St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3577-1100 International SOS Clinic 1 Dang Thai May St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-0666 Thuy Tran Otolaryngology Clinic 6 Do Quang St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi (6/61 Tran Duy Hung Avenue) Tel: (04) 3556-6124 Mobile 098 368 0276 Email: thuyent12@yahoo.com www.taimuihongthuytran.com Vinmec international hospital 458 Minh Khai St, Hai Ba Trung Dist, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3974-3556 AIRLINES Air France 1 Ba Trieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3484 Qatar Airways Hilton Hanoi Opera Building, M floor, 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-6767 www.qatarairways.com Singapore Airlines 17 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3826-8888 Vietnam Airlines 25 Trang Thi St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-0320 TRAVEL

Amega Travel Hancorp Plaza, 72 Tran Dang Ninh St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3783-3570 www.amegatours.net

United Kingdom 31 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3936-0500

Buffalo Tours 10th Floor, 70-72 Ba Trieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-0702 www.buffalotours.com Emeraude Classic Cruises 46 Le Thai To St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3935-1888 www.emeraude-cruises.com Email: info@buffalotours.com Exotissmo 3rd Floor, 66A Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-2150 www.exotissimo.com Email: go.vietnam@exotravel.com

United States 7 Lang Ha St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3772-1500

Topas Travel 52 To Ngoc Van St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715-1005

Sweden 2 Nui Truc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3726-0400 Thailand 63-65 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-5092 Turkey 14th Floor, HCO Building, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Tel: (04) 3822-2460

DIRECTIONS HANOI Email: sales@topastravel.vn www.topastravel.vn HOTELS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Baoson International Hotel 50 Nguyen Chi Thanh St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3835-3536 Email: sales@baosonhotels.com www.baosonhotels.com From VND1,570,000 ($75) De Syloia Hotel 17A Tran Hung Dao St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-5346 Email: desyloia@hn.vnn.vn www.desyloia.com From VND1,806,000 ($86) Fortuna Hotel Hanoi 6B Lang Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-3333 Email: fortunahanoi@fortuna.vn www.fortuna.vn From VND1,920,000 ($91) Hanoi Daewoo Hotel 360 Kim Ma St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5000 Email: sales@daewoohotel.com www.daewoohotel.com Hanoi Emotion Hotel 26 – 28 Hang Bot St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3848-9848 Email: info@hanoi-emotion.com www.hanoi-emotion.com The hotel also provides Vietnamese, Japanese and International cuisine Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-0500 Email: hanoi.opera@hilton.com www.hanoi.hilton.com Hilton Garden Inn Hanoi 20 Phan Chu Trinh St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-0500 reservations.hgihanoi@hilton.com hanoi.hgi.com Hotel de l’Opera 29 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 6282-5555 Email: H7832-RE@accor.com www.hoteldelopera.com Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-3343 Email: melia.hanoi@melia.com www.melia.com Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3822-2800 hotel.hanoi@moevenpick.com www.moevenpickhotels.com/hanoi From VND3,622,500 ($172.50) Hotel Nikko Hanoi 84 Tran Nhan Tong St, Hanoi

Tel: (04) 3822-3535 mc.nikko@hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn From VND4,620,000 ($220) Pullman Hanoi 40 Cat Linh St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-0808 www.pullman-hanoi.com From VND2,448,600 ($115.50) Prestige Hotel Hanoi 17 Pham Dinh Ho St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 6299-9888 Email: sales@prestigehotels.com.vn www.prestigehotels.com.vn Silk Path Hotel Hanoi 195-199 Hang Bong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3266-5555 Email: info@silkpathhotel.com www.silkpathhotel.com From VND2,173,500 ($103.50) Sheraton Hanoi Hotel 11 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-9000 reservations.hanoi@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/hanoi From VND4,956,000 ($236) Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi 15 Ngo Quyen St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-6919 Email: h1555@sofitel.com www.sofitel-legend.com From VND6,090,000 ($290) Sunway Hotel Hanoi 19 Pham Dinh Ho St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3971-3888 Email: reservation@sunwayhotel.com.vn www.hanoi.sunwayhotels.com APARTMENTS Fraser Suites Hanoi 51 Xuan Dieu St, Quang An Ward, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-8877 sales.hanoi@frasershospitality.com hanoi.frasershospitality.com Somerset Serviced Residence Vietnam 49 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-2342 www.somerset.com Luxurious apartments and properties for hiring RESTAURANTS Com Chay Nang Tam Restaurant 79A Tran Hung Dao St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4140 Green Tangerine 48 Hang Be St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com Serving French food with a Vietnamese cuisine Hoa Vien Brauhaus 1A Tang Bat Ho St,

Hai Ba Trung Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3972-5088 www.hoavien.vn The restaurant has been famous for its production of Czech beer Le Tonkin Restaurant 14 Ngo Van So St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-3457 www.letonkinrestaurant.vn Serves Vietnamese food

BOOK STORE

Infostones Bookshop 41 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-2993 Email: sach41trangtien@gmail.com Thousands of magazines and books by hundreds of publishing houses worldwide SHOPS

Craft Link 43 and 51 Van Mieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-7710 Email: craftlink@hn.vnn.vn Ha Dong Silk 102 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3928-5056 Tan My Embroidery 66 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Email: tanmyhuong@fpt.vn Tel: (04) 3825-1579 Viet Culture 1 Trang Thi St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-7417 Mekong Quilts 13 Hang Bac St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3926-4831 www.mekong-quilts.org Traditional embroidery and other handicraft cloth products

FURNITURE/ INTERIOR Dome Au Co 9 Au Co St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-5866 Email: sales@dome.com.vn Dome Yen The 10 Yen The St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-6036

STORE

Annam Gourmet 51 Xuan Dieu St, Quang An Ward, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-4487 www.annam-gourmet.com Annam Gourmet’s motivation is to ‘Enjoy Life. Eat and Drink well.’ MUSEUMS

Hanoi Museum 2 Pham Hung (next to Vietnam National Convention Centre), Me Tri Commune, Tu Liem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 6287-06 04 Opening hour: 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m.

and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Free entrance Ho Chi Minh Museum 19 Ngoc Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3846-3752 www.baotanghochiminh.vn Open: 8 a.m. to noon (Monday and Friday), 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (other days) Entry fee: VND25,000 Imperial Citadel of Thang Long 12 Nguyen Tri Phuong St/ 9 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 37345427 hoangthanhthanglong@gmail.com www.hoangthanhthanhlong.vn Open: 8.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. (Closed on Mondays) Entry fee: VND30,000 Vietnam National Museum of History 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi 216 Tran Quang Khai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-1384 www.baotanglichsu.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.Closed every first Monday of months Entry fee VND 20,000 ($0.95) for adults and VND10,000 ($0.48) for children Vietnam Fine Arts Museum 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-2131 www.vnfineartsmuseum.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND20,000 ($0.95) Vietnam Military History Museum 28A Dien Bien Phu St, Hanoi www.btlsqsvn.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) Vietnam Museum of Ethnology Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3756-2193, www.vme.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND40,000 ($2) Women’s Museum 36 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-9936 www.womenmuseum.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) SPA

Elite Fitness & Spa 51 Xuan Dieu St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-6281 info@elitefitness.com.vn www.elitefitness.com.vn Spa de Palace Fortuna Hotel Hanoi, 6B Lang Ha St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-3333

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

• 47

DIRECTIONS NINH BINH, NGHE AN, QUANG BINH, HUE, DANANG NINH BINH

(TELEPHONE CODE: 030) Emeralda Resort Ninh Binh

UNESCO World Heritage in 1993. Hue is also known for its particular cuisine.

Huong Giang Hotel Resort & Spa

HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Van Long Reserve, Gia Van Commune, Gia Vien Dist., Ninh Binh Province Tel: (030) 3658-333 Email: info@emeraldaresort.com www.emeraldaresort.com

Banyan Tree Lang Co Hotel Cu Du village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc Dist., Thua Thien Hue Province. Tel: (054) 3695-888 reservations-langco@banyantree.com www.banyantree.com BW Premier Indochine Palace

Ninh Binh Legend Hotel Tien Dong Zone, Ninh Khanh Ward, Ninh Binh City Tel: (030) 3899-880

DANANG

51 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3822-122 info@huonggianghotel.com.vn www.huonggianghotel.com.vn La Résidence Hue Hotel & Spa 5 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3837-475 Email: resa@la-residence-hue.com www.la-residence-hue.com Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa

Email: info@ninhbinhlegendhotel.com

www.ninhbinhlegendhotel.com From VND1,575,000 ($75)

NGHE AN

(TELEPHONE CODE: 038) Mường Thanh Song Lam Hotel 13 Quang Trung St, Quang Trung Ward, Vinh, Nghe An Province Tel: (038) 3737-666 Email: sales@songlam.muongthanh.vn

www.songlam.muongthanh.vn

QUANG BINH

(TELEPHONE CODE: 052) HOTELS, RESORTS

105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3936-666 Email: info@bwp-indochinepalace.com www.bwp-indochinepalace.com From VND2,940,000 ($140) The hotel is surrounded by lush green gardens that make it an outstanding landmark in Hue and give the city the feel of a resort. This luxurious, international standard hotel is created to appeal to Vietnamese and international visitors to Hue. Century Riverside Hotel Hue

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Bao Ninh Beach Resort Ha Duong, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (052) 3854-866 Email: sales@baoninhbeachresort.com.vn www.baoninhbeachresort.com.vn From VND1,120,000 ($53) Sun Spa Resort My Canh, Bao Ninh Commune, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (052) 3842-999 Email: info@sunsparesortvietnam.com www.sunsparesortvietnam.com From VND1,870,000 ($89)

Hue Riverside Boutique Resort & Spa

TRAVEL

Oxalis Adventure Tours Phong Nha Commune, Son Trach Village, Bo Trach Dist., Quang Binh Province Tel: (052)3677-678 www.oxalis.com.vn

HUE

(TELEPHONE CODE: 054) Hue is a city on the Perfume River in lowland central Vietnam and was the capital of the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 to 1945. Many imperial structures remain. They were named part of

130 Minh Mang Road, Hue Tel: (054) 3885-461 Email: info@pilgrimagevillage.com www.pilgrimagevillage.com Vedanā Lagoon Resort & Spa Zone 1, Phu Loc Town, Phu Loc Dist., Hue Tel: (054) 3681-688 Email: info@vedanalagoon.com www.vedanalagoon.com RESTAURANT

49 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3823-390 Email: info@centuryriversidehue.com www.centuryriversidehue.com

588 Bui Thi Xuan St, Thuy Bieu Dist., Hue Tel: (054) 3978-484 Email: sales@hueriversideresort.com www.hueriversideresort.com Imperial Hotel 8 Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3882-222 Email: info@imperial-hotel.com.vn www.imperial-hotel.com.vn From VND2,940,000 ($140)

48 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

VND45,000 per dish. The restaurant also serves as an art playground for Hue artists. Guests have chance to get their portraits drawn by the owners at a reasonable price. Vegetarian cooking classes are also available. The restaurant is about 1-2 km from Tu Duc tomb

Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant 110A Le Ngo Cat St, Thuy Xuan Ward, Hue Tel: (054) 3898-220 www.thientamrestaurant.com Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant features a Hue garden house with a simple design and a serene atmosphere. The restaurant serves a variety of Hue vegetarian food, from royal to local dishes, at a reasonable price. The menu has many choices, with prices starting from

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0511) HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Grand Mercure Danang Lot A1, Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3797-777 Email: H7821@accor.com www.accorhotels.com/7821 Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3981-234 Email: danang.regency@hyatt.com www.danang.regency.hyatt.com From VND5,225,000 ($243) Pullman Danang Beach Resort Vo Nguyen Giap St, Khue My Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3958-888 Email: info@pullman-danang.com www.pullman-danang.com Novotel Danang Premier Han River 36 Bach Dang St, Hai Chau Dist., Danang. Tel: (0511) 3929-999 Email: H8287@accor.com www.novotel-danang-premier.com Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort Danang Vietnam, Managed by Centara

255 Huyen Tran Cong Chua St, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3961-777

DIRECTIONS HOI AN, QUY NHON, NHA TRANG Email: cdv@chr.co.th www.centarahotelsresorts.com/cdv VND1,785,000 to VND5,670,000 ($85 to $270) Ho Chi Minh sales office: 4th Floor, Ben Thanh TSC Building; 186-188 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3914-7940 Vinpearl Luxury Danang Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0 511) 3968-888 Email: info@vinpearlluxury-danang.com www.vinpearl.com MUSEUM

Danang Museum of Cham Sculpture 2, 2 Thang 9 St, Danang Tel: (0511) 3572-935 www.chammuseum.danang.vn Open 7.15 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)

HOI AN

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0510) A major port town from the 15th to 19th centuries, Hoi An has well preserved vestiges of Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese cultures. The buildings are now often used for tailor’s shops. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hoi An is a little over 30 km south of Danang, on the central coast. HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Anantara Hoi An Resort 1 Pham Hong Thai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3914-555 Email: hoian@anantara.com www.hoi-an.anantara.com

Hoi An Historic Hotel

($179 to $364)TRAVEL

10 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3861-445 Email: reservation@hoianhotel.com.vn www.hoianhotel.com.vn From VND2,127,500 ($101) Kiman Hotel & Spa

Hoi An Beach Resort 1 Cua Dai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-011 info@hoianbeachresort.com.vn www.hoianbeachresort.com.vn From VND3,415,500 ($163) Hoi An Riverside Resort & Spa 175 Cua Dai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3864-800 reservation@hoianriverresort.com.vn www.hoianriverresort.com From VND1,650,000 ($79)

Rose Travel Service co..ltd 37 - 39 Ly Thai To St, Cam Chau Ward, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3917-567 Email: sales@rosetravelservice.com www.rosetravelservice.com.vn

HOTELS, RESORTS

Sunrise Hoi An Beach Resort Au Co Road, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3937-777 Email: sales@sunrisehoian.vn www.sunrisehoian.vn Palm Garden Beach Resort and Spa

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily AVANI Quy Nhon Resort & Spa Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3840-132 Email: quynhon@avanihotels.com www.avanihotels.com/quynhon From VND3,024,000 ($144) Royal Hotel and Healthcare Resort Quy Nhon 1 Han Mac Tu St, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 374-7100 Email: reservation@royalquynhon.com www.royalquynhon.com VND1,155,000 to VND1,365,000 ($55 to $65) MUSEUM

Quang Trung Museum Block 1, Phu Phong town, Tay Son Dist., Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3580-320 Open 7 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND10,500 ($0.50). Free for children under six Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-927 Email: info@pgr.com.vn www.palmgardenresort.com.vn From VND4,485,000 ($214) River-Beach Resort & Residences Hoi An

NHA TRANG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 058) On the central coast, Nha Trang is a city originally known for beautiful beaches but these have lately been found to suffer from pollution due to modern life, development and tourism, like other popular resort areas in Vietnam. It has large numbers of foreign tourists, island-hopping, scuba diving, sightseeing and lounging on the beach. HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily 5 Cua Dai St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3927-888 saleshoian@river-beachresort.com

Best Western Premier Havana Nha Trang Hotel

Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation 10B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3862-367 www.hoianheritage.net Open daily 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

QUY NHON

461-463 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3920 430 Email: kimanhoianhotel@gmail.com Website: kimanhoianhotel.com Le Belhamy Hoi An Resort & Spa Ha My Beach, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3941-888 Email: info@belhamy.com www.belhamy.com

Email: sales@champaislandresort.vn www.champaisandresort.vn Hotline: 0123 6009 777 With architecture reflecting nearby Po Nagar temple, Champa Island Nha Trang offers exquisite cuisine and many entertainment services that promise a memorable stay in Nha Trang

MUSEUM

(TELEPHONE CODE: 056)

Golden Sand Resort & Spa Hoi An Thanh Nien Road, Cua Dai Beach Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-555 info@goldensandresort-spa.com.vn www.goldensandresort-spa.com.vn VND3,759,000 to VND7,644,000 Ancient House River Resort Hamlet 2, Cam Thanh Village, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3930-777 Email: sales@ancienthouseriver.com www.ancienthouseriver.com From VND2,310,000 ($110)

www.river-beachresort.com From VND1,350,000 ($65)

Champa Island Nha Trang Resort & Spa 304 2/4 St, Vinh Phuoc, Nha Trang

38 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3889-999 Email: info@havanahotel.vn www.havanahotel.vn Diamond Bay Resort & Spa Nguyen Tat Thanh Blvd, Phuoc Ha, Phuoc Dong Dist., Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3711-711 Email: info@diamondbayresort.vn www.diamondbayresort.vn Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3524-705 reservations-nhatrang@evasonresorts.com

www.evason-resorts.com Galina Hotel and Spa 5 Hung Vuong St, Loc Tho Ward, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3839-999 Email: info@galinahotel.com.vn www.galinahotel.com.vn Green World Hotel Nha Trang 44 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3528-666 Email: sales@greenworldhotelnhatrang.com www.greenworldhotelnhatrang.com InterContinental Nha Trang Hotel 32-34 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3887-777 www.intercontinental.com Michelia Hotel 4 Pasteur St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-820 Email: sales@michelia.vn www.michelia.vn From VND2,200,000 ($105) Mường Thanh Nha Trang Hotel 6 Duong Hien Quyen St, Vinh Hoa Ward, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3552-468 Email: info@nhatrang.muongthanh.vn www.nhatrang.muongthanh.vn From VND1,400,000 ($66) Novotel Nha Trang Hotel 50 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 6256-900

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

• 49

DIRECTIONS PHAN THIET SHOPPING

Email: rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com From VND2,100,000 ($100) Six Senses Ninh Van Bay Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3524-268 Email: reservationsninhvan@sixsenses.com www.sixsenses.com/resorts/ninh-vanbay/destination From VND18,837,000 ($897) Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26-28 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province. Tel: (058) 3880-000 reservations.nhatrang@sheraton.com www.sheratonnhatrang.com Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa 12-14 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-999 Email: info@sunrisenhatrang.com.vn www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn VND2,520,000 to VND4,305,000 ($120 to $205)

PHAN THIET

(TELEPHONE CODE: 062) Sitting on the coast about 200 km north of Ho Chi Minh City, Phan Thiet is a beach city with many resorts and hotels.

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Vinpearl Resort Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang City, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-188 Email: info@vinpearlresort-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com

Allezboo Beach Resort & Spa 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-777 Email: info@allezbooresort.com www.allezbooresort.com From VND2,100,000 ($100) Anantara Mui Ne Resort & Spa 12A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-888 Email: res.amui@anantara.com www.mui-ne.anantara.com Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa

TOUR

Nha Trang Limousine 93 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3516-612 or 09868 33555 Email: hieu@everbluetravel.com.vn www.nhatranglimousine.com

Hoang Ngoc (Oriental Pearl) Beach Resort & Spa

Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3835-666 Email: reservations@parkdiamondhotel.vn www.parkdiamondhotel.vn From VND990,000 ($47) Pandanus Resort

MUSEUM Alexandre Yersin Museum Pasteur Institute, 10 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-406

HOTELS, RESORTS

Vinpearl Luxury Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-598 Email: info@vinpearlluxury-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com

White Sand Doclet Resort & Spa Population group 9 Dong Cat, Ninh Hai Ward, Ninh Hoa Town, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3670-670 Email: info@whitesandresort.com.vn www.whitesandresort.com.vn

Khanh Hoa Salanganes Nest Company 248 Thong Nhat St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-472 yensaokh@yensaokhanhhoa.com.vn www.yensaokhanhhoa.com.vn

info@bamboovillageresortvn.com www.bamboovillageresortvn.com From VND2,835,000 ($135)

38 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3847-007

www.phuhairesort.com

152 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province . Tel: (062) 3847-858 Email: info@hoangngoc-resort.com www.hoangngoc-resort.com VND1,600,000 to VND6,090,000 ($75 to $287) Full Moon Village Suoi Nuoc Beach, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3836-099 Email: reservation@fullmoon-village.com www.fullmoon-village.com VND2,100,000 to VND6,300,000 ($100 to $300)

Saigon - Suoi Nhum Resort Thuan Quy, Ham Thuan Nam Ward, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3683-240 info@saigonsuoinhumresort.com www.saigonsuoinhumresort.com From VND1,700,000 ($81)

Phu Hai Resort Km8, Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3812-799 Email: info@phuhairesort.com www.phuhairesort.com

Sandhills Beach Resort & Spa Km6, Tien Binh hamlet, Tien Thanh Commune, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3846-789 Email: info@sandhillsresort.com.vn www.sandhillsresort.com.vn From VND1,070,000 ($51)

Muine de Century Beach Resort & Spa 16 Huynh Thuc Khang St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-668 reservation@muinedecentury.vn www.muinedecentury.vn From VND1,701,000 ($81)

Saigon Mui Ne Resort 56 - 97 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-044 Email: saigonmuineresort@hcm.vnn.vn www.saigonmuineresort.com.vn From VND1,908,000 ($90)

Muine Ocean Resort & Spa 10 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-616 Email: sale.muineocean@gmail.com www.muineoceanresort.com From VND1,050,000 ($50)

Seahorse Resort & Spa

Muine Bay Resort

Quarter 14, Mui Ne Ward , Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-222 Email: info@muinebayresort.com www.muinebayresort.com VND2,205,000 to VND6,195,000 ($105 to $295) Park Diamond Hotel Nguyen Tat Thanh St, Hung Long Ward, Phan Thiet City,

50 â&#x20AC;˘ VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

Quarter 5, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3849-849 Email: pandanus@pandanusresort.com www.pandanusresort.com From VND1,575,000 ($75)

Km 11 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3847-507 reservation@seahorseresortvn.com www.seahorseresortvn.com From VND1,680,000 ($80) Sea Links Beach Hotel Km 9, Nguyen Thong St, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-088 Email: sales@sealinksbeachhotel.com www.sealinksbeachhotel.com From VND1,995,000 ($94) Sea Lion Beach Resort & Spa 12 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-390 www.sealionresort-muine.com

DIRECTIONS DALAT, HO CHI MINH CITY

Sunny Beach Resort & Spa

MUSEUM Cham Culture Exhibition Centre Song Mao intersection, Phan Hiep Commune, Bac Binh Dist., Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (062) 3641-456 Open: 7.30 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday Free entrance

64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-355 Email: info@sunnybeach.com.vn www.sunnybeach.com.vn From VND2,940,000 ($140) The Cliff Resort & Residences Zone 5, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3719-111 reservation@thecliffresort.com.vn www.thecliffresort.com.vn From VND2,667,000 ($127)

DALAT

(TELEPHONE CODE: 063) Dalat, founded in 1893, has Frencharchitecture, pine forests and a perpetually cool climate. It is in the southern Central Highlands, about 300 kilometres from Ho Chi Minh City. HOTELS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa

Mui Ne Unique Resort

20B, Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-617 Email: info@muineuniqueresort.com www.muineuniqueresort.com From VND2,898,000 ($138) Victoria Phan Thiet Beach Resort & Spa Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3813-000 Email: resa.phanthiet@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia From VND3,633,000 ($171)

Le Lai St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3555-888 Email: reservation-dalat@anamandara-resort.com www.anamandara-resort.com From VND3,150,000 ($150) Dalat Edensee Resort Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3831-515 Email: info@dalatedensee.com www.dalatedensee.com From VND2,450,000 ($117) Saigon-Dalat Hotel

Villa Aria Mui Ne

60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (062) 3741-660 Email: info@villaariamuine.com www.villaariamuine.com From VND2,520,000 ($120) White Sands Resort KM8, Nguyen Thong St, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-175 Email: frontoffice@whitesandresort.com www.whitesandresort.com From VND1,344,000 VND ($64)

180 Ba Thang Hai St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3556-789 Email: hotel@saigondalat.com ; resvn@saigondalat.com www.saigondalathotel.com Located in the heart of Dalat, SaigonDalat Hotel is a four-star-standard hotel, comprised of 160 luxurious and comfortable rooms with air-conditioning throughout and other modern amenities. Four restaurants, two bars, one tennis court, one indoor swimming pool, one fitness centre and one beauty salon and spa help make your getaway experience complete.

HO CHI MINH CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 08) CONSULATES

Australia 5B Ton Duc Thang St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-6035 Belgium 91 Nguyen Huu Canh St, Ward 22, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3512-7968 Cambodia 41 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2751 Canada Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9899 China 175 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3829-2457 Cuba 45 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-7350 France 27 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-7231 Germany 126 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2455 India 55 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-7853 Indonesia 18 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-1888 Japan 13-17 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (08) 3822-5314 Kuwait 24 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, tel: (08) 3827-0555 Laos 93 Pasteur St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-7667 Mexico 11 Tra Khuc St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3848-6290 Netherlands 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-5932 New Zealand Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-6907 Panama 7A Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3825-0334 Russia 40 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-3936

Singapore Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5173 South Korea 107 Nguyen Du St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5757 Switzerland 42 Giang Van Minh St, Dist.2, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3744-6996 Thailand 77 Tran Quoc Thao St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-7637 United Kingdom 25 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-1380, (08) 3829-8433 United States 4 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-9433 HOSPITALS

Columbia Asia Gia Dinh International Hospital 1 No Trang Long St, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3803-0678 FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang St, Dist.7, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 5411-3500 Stamford Skin Centre 254 Dien Bien Phu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-1090 Email: info@stamfordskin.com www.stamfordskin.com AIRLINES

Air France 130 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-0981 All Nippon Airways 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3821-9612 American Airlines 69 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3933-0330 Asiana Airlines 39 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8710, (08) 3829-3038 British Airways 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-2933 Cathay Pacific Airways 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3203 Emirates Airlines 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-2939

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

â&#x20AC;˘ 51

DIRECTIONS HO CHI MINH CITY Japan Airlines 88 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3821-9098 Jetstar Pacific Airlines 112 Hong Ha St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3955-0550 Philippine Airlines 2nd Floor Saigon Royal Building 91 Pasteur St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-2105 Qatar Airways 1-5 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-3888 Royal Brunei Airlines 787 Tran Hung Dao St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh CityTel: (08) 3924-5100 Singapore Airlines 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-1588 Thai Airways International 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2809 United Airlines Suite 708 Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-4755 Vietnam Airlines 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3832-0320 Vietjet Air 8Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-0123 www.vietjetair.com TRAVEL

Asiana Travel Mate 113C Bui Vien St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3838-6678 www.atravelmate.com Buffalo Tours 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9168 Email: travelagency@buffalotours.com

www.buffalotours.com.vn Buffalo Tours operates in Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia and Laos. The Buffalo Tours portfolio caters to all types of tours. Exotissimo 261/26 Phan Xich Long St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3995-9898 www.exotravel.com Saigon Tourist 45 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9279 www.saigon-tourist.net Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (08) 3844-1005 Email: dosm@trailsofindochina.com www.trailsofindochina.com

November 2011, adds a modern style. 230 rooms and suites, a ballroom, recreation area, VIP Lounge, Western & Asian restaurants, Bars & Grand Café at Roof Garden First Hotel

18 Hoang Viet St, Ward 4, Tan Binh Dist, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-1199 Email: first.hotel@hcm.vnn.vn www.firsthotel.com.vn Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City

Transviet Travel Travel House, 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3933-0777 www.transviet.com.vn HOTELS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Catina Saigon Hotel 109 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-6296 www.hotelcatina.com.vn From VND1,690,500 ($80.50) Caravelle Hotel 19-23 Cong Truong Lam Son St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-4999 www.caravellehotel.com Duxton Hotel Saigon 63 Nguyen Hue Blvd, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-2999 enquires@saigon.duxton.com.vn www.duxtonhotels.com Grand Hotel Saigon 8 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3823-0163 Email: info@grandhotel.vn www.grandhotel.vn Built in 1930, the Ancient Wing of Grand Hotel Saigon offers a cozy and elegant atmosphere. The Luxury Wing, opened in

242 Tran Binh Trong St, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3839-7777 Email: info@hcm.equatorial.com www.equatorial.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/equatorialhcmc Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City is an international 5-star hotel, located where the borders of the city's four main districts intersect; hence in the heart and true centre of Ho Chi Minh City. Tan Son Nhat International Airport can be reached conveniently within 30 minutes, while the city's major commercial and entertainment area is only a mere 8minute drive. Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, tel: (08) 3925-7777 reservation@hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn From VND4,830,000 ($230) InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner Hai Ba TrungSt. & Le Duan Blvd, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3520-9999 Email: saigon@ihg.com www.intercontinental.com/Saigon Kelly Hotel 42-44 Thu Khoa Huan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3823-3364 Email: info@kellyhotel.com.vn www.kellyhotel.com.vn From VND750,000 ($36) An elegant and cosy hotel with good service. Within walking distance to Ben Thanh market, Independence Palace and several museums. Vietnamese food is served at reasonable prices. Liberty Central Hotels in Ho Chi Minh City 17 Ton Duc Thang St, Dist.1

52 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

Tel: (08) 3827-1717 177-179 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1 Tel: (08) 3823-9269 Email: frontdesk.lcc@libertyhotels.com.vn

www.libertycentralhotel.com Mövenpick Hotel Saigon

253 Nguyen Van Troi St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-9222 Email: hotel.saigon@moevenpick.com www.moevenpick-hotels.com From VND2,100,000 ($100) Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-3333 www.lottehotel.com New World Saigon Hotel 76 Le Lai St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8888 Email: saigon@newworldhotels.com www.saigon.newworldhotels.com New Epoch Hotel 120 Cach Mang Thang 8 St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-6169 Email: info@newepochhotel.com.vn www.newepochhotel.com.vn From VND1,155,000 ($55) Northern Hotel Saigon

11A Thi Sach St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-1751 Email: reservation@northernhotel.com.vn

www.northernhotel.com.vn From VND1,505,000 ($71) Three-star boutique hotel, 99 rooms in Superior, Deluxe and Suite categories, a short walk from major entertainment and shopping venues. Novotel Saigon Centre 167 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3822-4866 Email: H7965@accor.com www.novotel-saigon-centre.com Palace Hotel Saigon 56-66 Nguyen Hue Blvd, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2860 Email: sales@palacesaigon.com www.palacesaigon.com Park Hyatt Saigon 2 Lam Son Square, District 1,

DIRECTIONS HO CHI MINH CITY Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1234 Email: saigon.park@hyatt.com www.saigon.park.hyatt.com From VND 7,887,850 ($376)

17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1555 Email: h2077@sofitel.com www.sofitel.com From VND3,864,000 ($262)

PARKROYAL Saigon 309B – 311 Nguyen Van Troi St,Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3842-1111

Silver Creek City Resort 112 An Phu Dong 11, Dist.12, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3719-9533 Email: reception@silvercreek.com.vn www.silvercreek.com.vn From VND1,050,000 ($50)

enquiry.prsgn@parkroyalhotels.com

www.parkroyalhotels.com Ramana Hotel Saigon 323 Le Van Sy St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3843-9999 Email: info@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com From VND1,690,500 ($80.5) Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon 8-15 Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0033 www.renaissance-saigon.com Royal Hotel Saigon 133 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5915 www.royalhotelsaigon.com From VND1,092,000 ($52)

Sofitel Saigon Plaza

Kim Lam Restaurant

Caffe Molinari 5 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3910-6903 Email: molinari@vnn.vn www.caffemolinari.com Sax N’ Art Jazz Club 28 Le Loi St, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8472 www.saxnart.com Thao Nguyen Café Floor 7 and Rooftop of Restaurant Ngon 138 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9666 Open from 7 a.m. until 10.30 p.m.

Sonnet Saigon Hotel

SHOPS

14 Truong Dinh St., Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-1999 reservation@sonnetsaigonhotel.com www.sonnetsaigonhotel.com From VND925,000 Windsor Plaza Hotel

Rex Hotel 141 Nguyen Hue St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2185 Email: rexhotel@rex.com.vn www.rexhotelvietnam.com From VND4,620,000 ($220) Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers 88 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-2828 Email: sheratonsaigon@sheraton.com www.sheratonsaigon.com

Tel: (08) 3839-7777 Email: info@hcm.equatorial.com www.equatorial.com New daily menus for lunch and dinner buffets, all served in a relaxing atmosphere. Eight live cooking stations with over 60 varieties of mouth-watering domestic and international dishes. A meeting place to enjoy delicious house-made pastries and cakes and a cup of coffee from selected premium blends.

23 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6299-0879 Email: kimlam@galaxyfood.com.vn www.kimlam1galaxyfood.com The restaurant serves Vietnamese food from the North, Centre and South with emphasis on artistic garnish. It has three floors and can hold one hundred and twenty people. The restaurant is a treasure trove of Vietnamese culture with art objects serving as the decor Kobe Teppanyaki Restaurant 13A Tu Xuong St, Ward 7, Dist 3, Ho Chi MInh City Tel: (08) 3932-0187

18 An Duong Vuong, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3833-6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com RESTAURANTS

Beef No.1 Restaurant 1 Hoang Viet St, Ward 4, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 0935891818/ 0919898253 Chit Chat Restaurant Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City, 242 Tran Binh Trong St, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City

Lemongrass Restaurant 4 Nguyen Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0496 www.bongsencorporation.com Mam Son Restaurant 35 Ton That Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3915-3653 Vietnamese food Orientica Restaurant Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City, 242 Tran Binh Trong St, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3839-7777 Email: info@hcm.equatorial.com www.equatorial.com A Teppanyaki restaurant with an openpreparation counter, guests will be able to view spectacular food preparation before their very eyes.

Dong Duong 123A Bui Vien St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 0943925348 Handed by crafts from Vietnam 47 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 0908 447 282 IPA Nima 85 Pasteur St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-2701 IPA Nima is well-known for its bags. Lu's Handmade 240 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Facebook: Lu's Handmade Thegioidecor.vn 123 Bis 2 Tran Quoc Thao St, Ward 7, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 0123.236.1111 Email: thegioidecor.vn@gmail.com www.thegioidecor.vn Tropic Shop 89 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3714 www.ofcvn.com/tropic SPA

Vspa & Skincare

Vatel Saigon Bistronomique-Lounge 120 Bis Suong Nguyet Anh St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 5404-2220 www.vatelsaigon.com BARS & CAFÉS

Elle Cafe 45 Ngo Duc Ke St, Bitexco Financial Tower, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6291-8769

15B/25 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9484 Email: reception.vspa@gmail.com www.vspa.com.vn

VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

• 53

CENTRE OF HO

ndependence P alace 1. IIndependence Palace TThe he or iginal w as built in 1865 called original was Norodom Palace Nor odom P alace and the Palace Palace of the Governor IIndochina ndochina G overnor General. General. After After bombs destroyed was destr oyed it in 1963, a new palace palace w as built called D oc lap (I ndependence ) P alace and Doc (Independence Palace after was Nhat af ter 1975, it w as rrenamed enamed TThong hong N hat C onfference Hall It is now now open tto o visitors visitors to to Conference Hall.. It see some fascinating fascinating insights, insights, such as a war war rroom oom and ccommunication ommunication centre centre in the basement, Centre Hall,, and rooms where basemen t, C entre Hall rooms wher e the P resident’s family sta yed. Ticket: Ticket: VND30,000 President’s stayed. Notre Dame Cathedral Cathedral 2. Notre Cathedral Built in 1877, and the C athedral opened tto o the public in 1880. The The br icks used tto o build bricks this mar vellous struc ture w ere shipped fr om marvellous structure were from M arseilles. TThe he ccost ost of cconstruction onstruction w as a Marseilles. was whopping 2.5 million Francs. Francs. IIn n fr ont of the front ca thedral is a statue statue of the V irgin M ary. TThe he cathedral Virgin Mary. ca thedral has six great great bells weighing cathedral bells,, each weighing 26 kg ted in the ttwo wo bell-t owers and kg,, loca located bell-towers e xamples of stained glass desig ned in the examples designed G othic st yle Gothic style 3. B en T hanh M arket Ben Thanh Market TThe he or iginal market market was was loca ted on the bank original located of the Ben Ben Nghe R iver b River byy the old Gia Dinh FFort. ort. IIn n 1859, when the FFrench rench in vaded invaded SSaigon aigon and overtook overtook Gia Dinh Fort, Fort, B en Ben TThanh hanh M arket w as destr oyed. IItt w as rrebuilt ebuilt Market was destroyed. was shor tly af fter and remained remained standing un til it shortly after until w as mo ved tto o its present present loca tion in 1899. was moved location No w, B en TThanh hanh mar ket is a tr ade ccentre entre and Now, Ben market trade a fa vourite ttourist ourist destina tion, off ffer ering a favourite destination, offering wide rrange ange of V ietnamese handicraft, handicrafft, fr esh Vietnamese fresh fruits and local specialities specialities.. 4. V ietnam H istory Museum Vietnam History Built in 1927, this museum displa ys rremains emains displays and rrelics elics in or der tto o depic iods of the order depictt per periods ccountry’s ountry ’s dev elopment sinc e the ccountry’s ountry ’s development since ffoundation. oundation. 25,000 precious precious antiques antiques ar e on are displa y, including Buddhist sta tues of SSouth outh display, statues East A sia, pottery pottery of V ietnam and A sian Asia, Vietnam Asian ccountries, ountries, mummified bodies icket: bodies.. TTicket: VND15,000

STREET GUIDE

3 Thang 2..........A2, A3, B2 Alexandre De Rhodes........ ........................................E2 An Duong Vuong....A4, B4 Ba Le Chan....................D1 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan...... ........................................C2 Ban Co...........................B3 Ben Chuong Duong........... .................................D4, E4 Ben Van Don...........D4, E4

Bui Thi Xuan..................C3 Bui Vien...................C4, D4 Cach Mang Thang Tam..... ......A1, B1, B2, C2, C3, D3 Calmette.........................E4 Cao Thang.....................B3 Chu Manh Trinh.............F2 Co Bac.....................C4, D4 Co Giang............. ...C4, D4 Cong Quynh............C3, C4 De Tham........................D4

Dien Bien Phu..................... A3, B2, C2, D1, D2, E1, F1 Dinh Tien Hoang............E1 Do Quang Dau...............C4 Do Thanh.......................B3 Doan Cong Buu.............C1 Doan Nhu Hai..........E4, F4 Dong Du.........................F3 Dong Khoi................E3, F3 Hai Ba Trung....................... ...........................D1, E2, F3 Hai Trieu.........................F4

Ham Nghi.................E4, F4 Han Thuyen....................E2 Ho Hao Hon...................C4 Ho Tung Mau...........E3, E4 Ho Xuan Huong.............C2 Hoa Hung.......................A2 Hung Vuong...................A4 Huyen Tran Cong Chua..... ........................................D3 Huynh Thuc Khang........E3 Huynh Tinh Cua.............D1 Ky Con.....................D4, E4

Ky Dong...................B2, C1 Le Duan...................E2, F2 Le Hong Phong.................. ...........................A2, A3, A4 Le Lai.......................C3, D3 Le Loi..............................E3 Le Quy Don....................D2 Le Thanh Ton...................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Le Thi Hong Gam............... .................................D4, E4 Le Thi Rieng............C3, D3

Le Van Sy.......................B1 Luong Huu Khanh.........C3 Ly Chinh Thang.......C1, C2 Ly Thai To......................A3 Ly Tu Trong......................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Ly Van Phuc...................E1 Mac Dinh Chi...........E1, E2 Mac Thi Buoi..................F3 Mai Thi Luu..............E1, F1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia............ ...................C1, D1, D2, D3

CHI MINH CITY D

Ngo Duc Ke....................F3 Ngo Thoi Nhiem ....C2, D2 Ngo Van Nam.................F2 Nguyen Binh Khiem.............. .....................................F1, F2 Nguyen Cau...................D1 Nguyen Cong Tru............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ ......B3, C2, C3, D2, E1, F1 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Hue.............E3, F3

Nguyen Khac Nhu.............. .................................C4, D4 Nam Quoc Cang.....C3, C4 Nguyen Phi Khanh.........E1 Nguyen Sieu...................F3 Nguyen Son Tra................. .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Tat Thanh..........F4 Nguyen Thai Binh............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Thai Hoc....D3, D4 Nguyen Thanh Y............E1

Nguyen Thi Dieu............C2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai........ .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Thien Thuat........... .................................A3, B3 Nguyen Thong........B2, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien........ .................................B2, C3 Nguyen Trai.............B4, C4 Nguyen Trung Ngan......F2 Nguyen Trung Truc........E3 Nguyen Truong To.........E4

Nguyen Van Cu..............B4 Nguyen Van Thu......E1, F1 Pasteur................................ ...............D1, D2, E2, E3,E4 Pham Ngoc Thach.........D1 Pham Ngu Lao........C4, D4 Pham Viet Chanh...........B3 Phan Ke Binh..........E1, E2 Pho Duc Chinh...............E4 Phung Khac Khoan.......E2 Suong Nguyet Anh........C3 Thach Thi Thanh.....D1, E1

Thai Van Lung................F3 Thi Sach.........................F3 Thu Khoa Huan.......D3, E3 To Hien Thanh................A1 Ton That Dam..........E3, E4 Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Binh Trong......A3, A4 Tran Cao Van.................E2 Tran Dinh Xu...........B4, C4 Tran Hung Dao.......C4, D4 Tran Minh Quyen...........A3 Tran Nhan Tong.......A3, A4

Tran Phu.........................A4 Tran Quang Dieu...........B1 Tran Quang Khai.....D1, E1 Tran Quoc Thao......C1, D2 Tran Quoc Toan......C1, D1 Truong Dinh............C1, C2 Tu Xuong.......................C2 Vinh Vien........................A3 Vo Thi Sau........C2, D1, E1 Vo Van Tan..............C3, B3 Vuon Chuoi..............B2, B3 Yersin..............................D4

DIRECTIONS VUNG TAU, LONG HAI, CON DAO, CAN THO, CHAU DOC COOKING CLASSES Mint Culinary School 778/45 Nguyen Kiem St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-5500 Email: sales@vca.com.vn www.vca.com.vn Saigon Cooking Class 74/7 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com GALLERIES

Artists Long & Ngoc Gallery Grand Hotel (at the lobby), 8 Dong Khoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City TeL: (08) 2246-6839 Mobile: 0908 229 708 Email: ngoclongfineart@yahoo.com Apricot Gallery 50 Mac Thi Buoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-7962 Cactus Contemporary Art 17/12 Nguen Huy Tuong St, Ward 6, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 7300-1270 info@cactusartgallery.com www.cactusartgallery.com Craig Thomas Gallery 27i Tran Nhat Duat St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Mobile: 0903 888 431 Email: cthomasgallery@gmail.com www.cthomasgallery.com Open: 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sundays

www.hcmc-museum.edu.vn Open daily 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Independence Palace 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3652 www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn Open daily, 7.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m., 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. War Remnants Museum 28 Vo Van Tan St, Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3930-5587 Email: warrmhcm@gmail.com Open daily 7.30 a.m. to midday and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Southern Women Museum 202 Vo Thi Sau St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-7130

A popular beach resort town for residents of Ho Chi Minh City, Vung Tau is about 128 km southeast of HCMC. It can be reached either by road or by a 90-minute hydrofoil boat from HCMC. Sitting on a peninsula that sticks out into the East Sea, Vung Tau does not have the most beautiful, or cleanest, beaches in Vietnam but can act as a quick getaway from the buzz of the city. HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Mường Thanh Vung Tau Hotel

Galerie Quynh Lv 151/2 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-8284 www.galeriequynh.com Sàn Art 48/7 Me Linh St, Ward 19, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6294-7059 www.san-art.org Opening: 10.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. every. Closed on Sunday and Monday Tu Do Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3821-0966 www.tudogallery.com Opening: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday MUSEUMS

Fine Arts Museum of Ho Chi Minh City 97A Pho Duc Chinh St, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-4441 www.baotangmythuattphcm.com Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Mondays. Ho Chi Minh City Museum 65 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-9741

No 09, Thong Nhat St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3835-567 Email: sales@vungtau.muongthanh.vn www.vungtau.muongthanh.vn From VND1,890,000 ($90) Grand Hotel Vung Tau 2 Nguyen Du St, Ward.1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-888 Email: sales@grandhotel.com.vn www.grandhotel.com.vn From VND2,058,000 ($98) Petrosetco Hotel 12 Truong Cong Dinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3624-748 Email: sales@petrosetco.com.vn www.petrosetcohotel.vn From VND1,085,700 ($52) Petro House Hotel 63 Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3852-014

56 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

Email: info@petrohousehotel.vn www.petrohousehotel.vn From VND1,260,000 ($60) Palace Hotel

Ninh Kieu Dist., Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3812-210 golf4.cantho@vinagolf.vn www.vinagolf.vn Victoria Can Tho Resort Cai Khe Ward, Ninh Kieu Dist., Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3810-111 Email: resa.cantho@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia From VND3,700,000 ($175) MUSEUM

1 Nguyen Trai St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-411 Email: sales@palacehotel.com.vn www.palacehotel.com.vn From VND2,062,000 ($97) Romeliess Hotel 31 - 33 Thuy Van St, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3613-366 Email: sales@romeliss.com www.romeliesshotel.com The Imperial Hotel & Residences Vung Tau 159 - 163 Thuy Van St, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3628-888 Email: info@imperialhotel.vn www.imperialhotel.vn

Can Tho Museum 1 Hoa Binh St, Tan An Ward, Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3820-955 Open: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.); Saturday and Sunday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 6.30 p.m. to 9 p.m.). Closed on Friday. Free admission

CHAU DOC

(TELEPHONE CODE: 076) HOTELS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Victoria Chau Doc Hotel

MUSEUM

White Palace 6 Tran Phu St, Ward.1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3852-605 Open daily 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.

LONG HAI

Long Hai is a beach town, 30km northeast of Vung Tau and 124 km southeast of HCMC. The Grand Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province. Tel: (064) 3788-888 Email: info@thegrandhotramstrip.com www.thegrandhotramstrip.com

CON DAO

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist., Ba Ria - Vung Tau Province Tel : (064) 3831-222 reservations-condao@sixsenses.com www.sixsenses.com/resorts/ con-dao/destination From VND14,490,000 ($690)

CAN THO

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0710) Can Tho is the largest city in the Mekong Delta, about 170 km southwest of Ho Chi Minh City, and acts as the area’s economic, transportation and cultural centre. Sitting on the Mekong River, Can Tho is popular for its nearby floating markets, canals and rivers that can be explored by boat. HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Golf Can Tho Hotel 2 Hai Ba Trung St, Tan An Ward,

1 Le Loi St, Chau Doc Town, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3865-010 resa.chaudoc@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia From VND3,169,000 ($149) Victoria Nui Sam Lodge Vinh Dong 1, Nui Sam, Chau Doc, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3575-888 resa.nuisam@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia MUSEUM

An Giang Museum 11 Ton Duc Thang St, My Binh Ward, Long Xuyen City, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3956-248 Open hour 7a.m. to 11a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Monday Entrance fee: VND42,000 ($2)

PHU QUOC

(TELEPHONE CODE: 077) Phu Quoc Island, off the southern tip of Vietnam in the Gulf of Thailand, has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. White-sand beaches, scuba diving around coral reefs or exploring the protected jungle. Accessible by either the Rach Gia hydrofoil boat or a 50-minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City. Modest family-owned

bungalows on the beach to fivestar resorts. HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Eden Resort Phu Quoc

FRANCE

(Telephone code: 33) CLEMONT-FERRAND Kim Anh 6 Bis r Elie Gintrac Tel: (33-4) 7391-9364 Serves traditional Vietnamese food, from €12.80 per dish Open 11.30 a.m. to 3 p.m. (closed on Sundays). GRENOBLE Kim Ngan 22 r Nicolas Chrier Tel: (33-4) 7649-0847 Serves Vietnamese food with prices starting at €8 per dish

Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Ward, Phu Quoc District, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3985-598 reservations@edenresort.com.vn www.edenresort.com.vn Chen Sea Resort & Spa Phu Quoc, Centara Boutique Collection Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3995-895 Email: cpv@chr.co.th www.centarahotelsresorts.com From VND3,381,000 ($161) La Veranda Resort

Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 7, Duong Dong Town Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3982-988 contact@laverandaresorts.com www.laverandaresorts.com VND5,082,000 to VND8,694,000 ($242 to $414) Sai Gon Phu Quoc Resort 1 Tran Hung Dao St, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3846-999 Email: sgphuquocresort@hcm.vnn.vn www.sgphuquocresort.com.vn VND2,499,000 to VND4,011,000 ($119 to $191)

CANADA

(Telephone code: 1) Xe Lua 254 Spadina Ave, Tonronto, Ontario Canada M5T2C2 Tel: (1-416) 703-8330 Xe Lua has been open since 1996 and serves phở for $6 a bowl Open: 11.30 a.m. to 12 p.m Chau Kitchen and Bar 1500 Robson St. Vancouver, British Columbia Tel: (1-604) 682-8020 www.chaukitchenandbar.com Serves Vietnamese dishes with prices starting at $7 per dish.

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

(Telephone code: 1) CALIFORNIA-CA Emerald Restaurant Pacific Gateway Plaza 3709 Convoy Street, Ste 101, San Diego, CA 92111 Tel: (1) 858-565-6888 Serves Vietnamese food

DIRECTIONS PHU QUOC, OVERSEAS Kieu Nga Lemongrass Restaurant 514 12th Ave Seattle, WA 98122 Tel: (1) 206-860-8164 Moonlight Café 1919 S Jackson St Seattle, WA 98144 Tel: (1) 206-322-3378 Massachusetts-MA Saigon Hut 305-307 Meridian St. Boston, ] MA 02128; Tel: (1) 617-567-1944 Xinh Xinh 7 Beach St (Washington St.) Boston, MA 02111 Tel: (1) 617-422-0501

UNITED KINGDOM

(Telephone code: 44) Little Saigon Restaurant 6 Bigg Market, Newcastle upon Tyne, England Tel: 01912330766 Vietnamese dishes

AUSTRALIA

(Telephone code: 61) La Mint 62–64 Riley St, East Sydney NSW 2010 Tel: (61) 293-311-818 Email: service@lamint.com.au www.lamint.com.au Open: Wednesday to Friday, noon to 2:30 p.m., Monday to Saturday, 6 p.m. to 10.30 p.m. French and Vietnamese dishes

INDONESIA

(Telephone code: 62) Pho 24 Pondok Indah, Plaza I, Jln. Taman Duta 1Blok UA 35 Jakarta Selatan Tel: (62) 0217-505-909 JIn. Wolter Mongonsidi No. 71, Kebayyoran Baru, Jakarta Selatan Tel: (62) 0217-278-8411 Pacific Place Mall, 5th Floor, SCBD, JIn. Jendral Sudirman Kav. 52-53, Jakarta 12190 Tel: (62) 0215-140-0531

Hung Ky Mi Gia 5237 El Cajon Blvd, San Diego, CA 92115; Tel: (1) 619-229-2188 Serves noodle varieties with prices starting at $5 per dish Open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. International Restaurant 1 4444 – A University Ave, San Diego, CA 92115 Tel: (1) 619-281-9999 Little Saigon 7 Linden Ave (Railroad) South San Francisco, CA 94080 Tel: (1) 650-589-1398 New York-NY Saigon Grill 620 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY 10024 Tel: (1) 212-875-9072 Serves over 100 Vietnamese dishes including vegetarian options Open 11 a.m. to 12 a.m. Mai Lan Vietnamese 505 N State St Syracuse, NY 13203 Tel: (1) 315-471-6740 www.mailanrestaurant.com L’Annam 121 University Pl New York, NY 10022 Tel: (1) 212-420-1414 VIRGINIA-VA Minh’s Vietnamese 2500 Wilson Blvd Arlington, VA 22201 Tel: (1) 703-525-2828 Prices start at $15 per dish Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (closed on Mondays) WASHINGTON-WC Ho Bac 1314 S Jackson St Seattle, WA 98144 Tel: (1) 206-860-8164 VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

• 57

Photo: Dzung Nguyen

Photo: Vu Duc Hai Photo: Nguyen Van Dong

Photo: Ngo Duc Can

Photo: Nguyen Dang Yen Trinh

58 â&#x20AC;˘ VIETNAM HERITAGE - MARCH-APRIL 2015

Clockwise from top left: In Moc Chau, Son La Province; At the Temple of Literature in Hanoi; Making rice paper; Releasing fish for blessing; A scarecrow for protection fields, in Hoi An