Vietnam Heritage No. 42 October-November 2014 by Vietnam Heritage

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Soul of Vietnamâ&#x20AC;?

ill be be announced announced at Winners w Ceremony Winners will at the the Vietnam Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards Awards Ceremony Heritage Photo oon n 223 3N ovember, 22014 014 aatt the the Independence Independence Palace, Palace, Ho Ho Chi Chi Minh Minh City City November, 100 sselected elected works works will will be be exhibited exhibited in in 100 Phan Thiet, Danang, Hoi Hoi An, An, Hanoi, P han T hiet, Nha Nha Trang, Trang, Danang, Hanoi, Ha Ha Long, Long, Hue, Hue, Can Tau, Chi Vung T C an Tho, Tho, Vung au, Ho Ho C hi Minh Minh City City . . . as 22 O October as from from 22 ctober 22014 014 to to the the end end of of February February 2015 2015

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CONTENT

No 9, Vol.4, October-November 2014

COVER STORY Religion 8 Buddhist in the front, Holy in the rear

Archeology

12 Deity or fallen hero? Crafts

14 Hand-painted hopes Folkism

18 The movement of the soul History

20 Defusing the past Festivals

22 A world of diversity Food

24 Tubes of plenty

8 16

Tourism

26 The long road to prosperity 28 The mud and the darkness

Travel

30 A short jungle trek on Con Dao 32 What the papers say 34 Events

38 Value for money 42 Recipe

43 Directions 58 Laid back

Cover photograph:

Inside Thay Pagoda. Photo: Ba Ngoc

Published by the Cultural Heritage Association of Vietnam

Publication licence No: 1648/GP-BTTTT from the Ministry of Information and Communications of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam for the English-language edition of The Gioi Di San (The World of Heritage) magazine Editor-in-Chief: Le Thanh Hai; Public Relations Director: Bui Thi Hang; Sub-editing: Erik Johnson; Assistant: Kha Tu Anh; Production: Nguyen Hoang Kim Long; Contributing Photographers: Nguyen Ba Han, Hoang Quoc Tuan, Hoang The Nhiem, Huynh Van Nam, Le Hoai Phuong, Nguyen Anh Tuan; Ngo Nguyen Huynh Trung Tin; Tran Viet Duc Correspondent: Pip de Rouvray; Advertising and Circulation: Green Viet Advertising JSC Advertising and Subscriptions Service: Email: ads.vietnamheritage@gmail.com; Thuy Phuong 0166 79 70 706 Email: subs.vietnamheritage@gmail.com Hanoi Advertising and Subscription: The He Moi MHN Viet Nam Co.Ltd, Mr Song Hao: 0903 476 999 Contact in the US for subscription and advertising: 2628 Sturla dr. San Jose, CA 95148

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VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

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Terrace fields in Mu Cang Chai, Yen Bai Province. Photo: Vu Chien

Thay Pagoda

Buddhist S in the front, Holy in the rear TEXT BY TRIEU THANH TU AND PHOTOS BY BA NGOC

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tanding modestly at the foot of an arc-shaped lime mount which rises from a plain in Sai Son Commune, Thay Pagoda belongs to Da Phuc and Thuy Khue Communes, Quoc Oai District, Hanoi. It is also called Thien Phuc (Heaven’s Blessing), and this name fits the beautiful pagoda and its serene atmosphere. The old ones relate that when the monk Tu Dao Hanh came here to establish the pagoda, he saw a lake beside the mount. A big promontory jutted out, looking to him like a dragon coming down for a drink of water. The pagoda founders widened the ‘dragon’s’

back and built the pagoda on it. The pagoda is at the centre of a densely populated and thriving area; thus this Zen site always has worshippers and caretakers. Located near Day River, a major highway, Thay Pagoda, together with Long Dau, Hoa Phat, Kim Hoang and Boi Am Pagodas, form an integrated spiritual conglomerate. The pagoda follows the ‘Buddhist front, Holy rear’ architecture, which is dominant in Vietnamese Buddhism. In the Red River Delta, there are 15 pagodas built in this style, but only five of them are truly Buddhist front, Holy rear, which means they have a separate struc-

Thay Pagoda ture for the worshipping of saints. Those five are Thay pagoda, Keo pagoda (Thai Binh and Nam Dinh), Boi Khe pagoda and Tong pagoda (Hanoi). But Thay pagoda has some other unique features. Long ago, it was a hermitage for Tu Dao Hanh, a famous monk of Vietnamese Zen Buddhism during the Ly Dynasty. According to the official records, after Dao Hanh left his body in 1117, Lady Do* gave birth to a son. Thinking that it was a holy sign, the villagers put his body in a hollow altar. In Thay pagoda, one can still see two stone lotus-shaped pedestals, one supporting Tu Dao Hanh’s statue. There is no carving to show the time of their making, but aestheticians say that the style, form and decorations belong to the LyTran era. Notably, these pedestals, typically

Inside Thay Pagoda made for Buddha’s statues, are not placed in the upper edifice, but in the Holy area. This fact proves that this was a centre of Buddhism of the Ly-Tran era, at the birth of the Buddhist front, Holy rear accent. The pagoda has retained seven stone steles, all dating to the 17th century. One of them, the ‘Acknowledgement’, made in the 7th year of Duong Duc’s reign, described the construction of the Holy Edifice, and listed the names of contributors. From this date and the architectural features, we can imagine that the pagoda, built in the Tran Dynasty (1225-1400), acquired this ‘hybrid’ feature during the major renovations of the 17th century. It was at that time that the structures dedicated to Buddha and the Saint (Tu Dao Hanh) were separated, giving birth to the

Buddhist front, Holy rear architecture. In the context of rapid economic development in the 17th century, the autonomy of villages grew stronger. It was an era when Vietnamese culture reaffirmed its independence from foreign influence. People paid special attention to national saints, who played vital roles in the life of the country and the people. When placed in the pagodas, they are worshipped not only behind the Buddha, like in most other pagodas, but also as the forefather of certain professions in a large region. For example, Duong Khong Lo is considered as the forefather of bronze casting, fishing and irrigation. As for Tu Dao Hanh, he was not only a celebrated Zen priest, but also the forefather of the water puppet show. Therefore, saint worship is lll

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sometimes more practical than Buddha worship. In Thay pagoda, the interior design and the architecture of the Saint edifice are more sophisticated. The thuribles and altars are more ancient and beautifully made. Moreover, the pagoda has three statues of Tu Dao Hanh. One is in the Forefather compartment, one is in the main altar, and one is in a sacred box in the Saint’s Edifice.

lll

The one in the sacred box, made after his appearance in the religious meditation incarnation is the most notable. It’s said that it has knuckles, connected to control strings, so when the box is opened, the statue can stand up and greet visitors. The box is opened only once a year, during the local festival. The statue was made in such a special way to honour the Saint as the Forefather of the art of

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water puppets. For the same reason, a stage was built in the middle of the lake in front of the pagoda to be used by the water puppet show puppeteers during the festivals. During non-festive times, only a side door of the pagoda is opened for pilgrims to come in and pay their respect to the Saint without having to pass the Buddha’s edifice. The Saint’s Edifice is also called the Upper Edifice, while the

Buddha Edifice is called the Middle Edifice. This shows that here the Saint is esteemed more than Buddha. The scenery and the legends surrounding the Saint Tu Dao Hanh, one of Vietnam’s Immortal Four, have given the Sai Son region a special spiritual value. Thay pagoda, a rare and beautiful architectural masterpiece, is a centre of Buddhism in the Red River Delta, a

place for people to come to seek tranquillity of the soul.n

* Editor’s note: Legend said that, before Tu Dao Hanh died, he had told his students he would be reincarnated as Lady Do’s son, King Ly Than Tong (1128- 1138). Lady Do is the wife of Sung Hien Hau, the brother of King Ly Nhan Tong (1072- 1127).

Clockwise from left: The sanctuary at Thay Pagoda; the statues at Thay Pagoda; Stone lotus shaped pedestals

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ARCHEOLOGY

Above and below: The front and the side of stone dragon (snake deity) statue at the shrine of Le Van Thinh, Gia Binh District, Bac Ninh Province

Bac Ninh Province

Deity or fallen hero? he stone dragon at the temple dedicated to the worship of Le Van Thinh is extremely strange; its mouth and claws tear its own body. But some say that this is a snake, not a dragon. The temple of Le Van Thinh was chosen by Bac Ninh Province to be one of four historical sites to host the celebration of the millennium of Thang Long. 50 metres below the surface, archaeologists have found a treasure; two sections of a dragon statue, each about 60 centimetres long, 35 centimetres high and 40 centimetres wide. Most importantly, the dragon’s legs and feet are completely intact, with sharp claws deeply ripping into the body.

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TEXT BY TRINH NGUYEN AND PHOTOS BY T GROUP

Remarkably, it was fully compatible in terms of material and style with the statues in a temple of a snake deity nearby. That’s why the national treasure certification for

the statue in the temple of Le Van Thinh reads, ‘relatively unique and intact.’ According to the relic management bureau of Bac Ninh, the two

newly -found fragments don’t fully connect to the statue. That made many guess that there could be other sections. They began hoping to find the remainder of the sculpture when excavating related areas in the future. The official public records of Bac Ninh Province clearly say: ‘This is a unique dragon statue, half snake, the other half, the bearing and claws of a dragon. Such a symbol has never been found in the history of Vietnam or South East Asia.’ ‘The dragon was found in an area which used to be a part the property of Le Van Thinh, who won the very first erudition contest of the Ly Dynasty in 1075. So, many think that it reflects the drama of the injustice that he endured in the Dam Dam Lake case during the reign of King Ly Nhan Tong,’ the file says. Dr Le Dinh Phung, head of the historical archaeology department of the Institute of Archaeology of Vietnam remarked, ‘That’s a very unique case, a dragon shredding itself. Common opinion is that this is a vindication for Le Van Thinh.’ After earning the prize, he became the head of the Ly court of the time. At the prime of his success, he was convicted for ‘turning into a tiger to kill the King’ in 1096 and was exiled to Thao Giang. The Book ‘Great Viet Full History’ recorded the episode. The King went to Lake Dam Dam on a small boat to watch fishing. A cloud covered the boat, and he saw a tiger in it. That’s why they thought Le Van Thinh intended to kill the King. In the opinion of many, the image of a dragon biting itself reflects King Ly Nhan Tong’s regret for wrongly suspecting his head of court. One ear is intact, the other ripped off; that symbolizes

his listening to the false accusations. Although experts are relatively unanimous on the meaning of the statue, the name of the ‘lead character’ and its date remain controversial. The national treasure certification calls it by both names, stone dragon and snake deity. The date is recorded as being during the Ly Dynasty. Nevertheless, Dr Le Dinh Phung said, ‘In don’t think it was made during Ly Dynasty’s reign. The dragon belongs to Le Van Thinh shrine. He suffered injustice and was exiled in that time, so it’s hard to believe that he would be enshrined right after his death. It must have been done later. Only the subsequent era could understand and do such a deed.’ Dr Phung also thinks that the statue’s style deviates too much from the common standards for dragons of Ly era, so it could not have been made then. ‘Thang Long, Phat Tich, and Doi Son dragons are very much the same. This one is out of the frame of art of the time. I would say that it belongs to Le era. That’s my personal opinion,’ he added. But Dr Tong Trung Tin, Chairman of the Vietnam Association of Archaeologists, a member of the Board of Scientific Assessment of National Treasures, thinks that it is a snake. ‘A dragon cannot be in a shrine of a mandarin. It’s an exclusive symbol of kings. This is a snake deity. I myself proposed to call it a snake deity in the certification. In terms of technical and stylistic elements, it is very typical for the Ly era,’ Mr Tin said. The certification reads ‘Stone dragon (snake deity), Ly era, currently kept at the shrine of Le Van Thinh, Gia Binh District, Bac Ninh Province.’n

CRAFTS

Hand-painted hopes

n the South, among the old idolized items, wood carvings were the rarest, and then came reliefs, painted in red and gold, then votive tablets with carved Chinese characters. Next were sacred items. Most popular were writings and paintings on red papers. Early 20th Century glass paintings came to satisfy the need for altar decoration. They were particularly useful and affordable, and quickly spread throughout the South, from pagodas and temples to homes and shops. Historically, the glass painting trade was brought to Vietnam by Chinese migrants in the early 20th Century. At first, the glass shops in Cho Lon sold only mirrors, picture frame glass, closet glass and mirrors and coloured glass for doors and windows. Later, they painted large gold characters on glass for occasions such as weddings, funerals, longevity celebrations, shop openings and calligraphic sets. In the 1920s, some glass painters moved to Lai Thieu, the cradle of craft industry. Lai Thieu belonged to Thu Dau Mot (currently Binh Duong Province), not far from Saigon – Cho Lon. Being rich in resources, easily accessible by waterways and the Saigon-Loc Ninh railway, this was a hub market where wholesale goods were gathered to be distributed everywhere. Lai Thieu’s glass painting trade quickly boomed. Reinforced by batches of artists graduating from the Thu Dau Mot Art School, the quality improved, and they won a large market share all over the South. A line of trading junks waited in line day and night at docks. Technically, the painting is done on the back side of the glass. The painter makes a mirror image on paper, then puts the glass on top and draws border lines according to the paper pattern. This is called ‘separation’. The separation lines must be clear and thin. After that, the separated areas are painted in

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY HUYNH THANH BINH

A glass painting of Lai Thieu strain

the order from nearest to furthest. The background is last. Separation lines can be ‘smeared’ where bordering areas have the same colour with different intensities. Then the painting is dried in the sun. Later, the painter can glue nacre, gold powder or gold paper to add glory to the picture. Finally, the painting is coated with a protective layer, framed, and finished. Originally, the painters used colour powder, mixed with Chinese ink and vegetable oil. Later, natural and chemical paints and colour powder mixed with leather glue were also introduced. Remarkably, in its development and popularization as a genre, glass paintings have always embraced local culture to form new strains, each unique in its own right. 1. The Cho Lon (Big Bazaar) strain Glass paintings of the Chinese at Big Bazaar are the oldest, serving the cultural and religious needs of the Chinese and the Vietnamese in the area. This strain uses mostly

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red colour and glues and gold and silver sheets to make the picture glisten. To create bright lines or backgrounds, the painter waxes the back side of the glass, then scrapes out the wax on the lines or background areas, and applies chemical reactions similar to mirror back coating. The Cho Lon strain is used mostly for congratulation gifts and worship items. The congratulation gifts are very diverse, both in topic and format. These are gifts for occasions such as New Year, longevity celebrations, shop openings and new homes. The topics are usually a reference to Chinese classic literature. For example, ‘Fisherman’s big catch’ is given on the occasion of shop opening to wish the host gain much profit, ‘Eight saints’ represents best wishes, ‘Riding to finish line’ means to wish success in business and career. ‘Five Gods of wealth’ means to wish prosperity. Among the worship items, most popular are pictures of Shakyamuni [the historical name given to Buddha], meditating in the lotus posture, with his hands in different positions. His dress may reveal his right shoulder and arm, or hide both shoulders, according to the dress code of Hīnayāna Buddhism. This Buddha is seated on a lotus, and the background may vary. Worship paintings for the Chinese community mostly depict historical figures deified by the common folks. There are also pictures that depict both Chinese and Vietnamese deities combined. These are called pictures of Life-Supporting Gods. Family Guardian Gods are also important for all families. Paintings of Tu Vi are hung above doorways to guard the house, to scare away evil spirits. These paintings are extremely popular. Tu Vi is a young boy sitting on an imposing lion, sword in one hand, and the Eight Trigrams in the other.

CRAFTS 2. Lai Thieu strain

Rich in colours-notably pink, blue, white, yellow, and green, but there are also black and red backgrounds. The special feature is that all designs and patterns are sacred to create a reflective effect. Traditionally, the reflected light was green on wood engravings. Then they use nacre, multicolour metal sheets, gold and silver, and later, chemical coating. Ancestry worship paintings are a specialty of the Lai Thieu strain. It depicts a landscape with a mountain in the background, a tortuous creek, a few houses halfhidden behind some trees, and in the centre, a beautiful house that has a garden by the stream and a bridge. It is meant to remind us that ‘Father’s labour is like the Thai Son mountain. / Mother’s love is like the water in the stream.’ Later, they added an old tree with a big trunk and large canopy to the picture, meaning ‘Trees have roots, and water comes from small springs.’

3. Ba Ve strain

Later from Long Dien B Commune, Cho Moi District, An Giang Province, came the Ba Ve strain. Once, a woman used to sell necessary supplies to traders passing a busy spot on a river. That was Ms Ve (Ba Ve). Later, the place became a bazaar, called Ba Ve bazaar. Gradually the area around this small village bazaar took the name too. The trade began here in the 1950s. The man who started it was Mr Tran Van Tu. He learned to make glass paintings in Can Tho, in the Lai Thieu style. After that, many learned it from him, and glass painting became a trade of the village. In the last two decades in Ba Ve, they have moved from hand painting to silk printing technology. Each picture uses seven or eight colours, and people use colour layering techniques to mix them to create the required effect. In this strain, Buddhist paintings play a major part, especially the set to hang on a horizontal beam that runs through all three compartments of a house, depicting great episodes in the life of Shakyamuni. Another main topic of Ba Ve strain is ancestry worship. Each set consists of three

paintings. The middle one has the Chinese characters Happiness, Wealth, and Longevity at the top; the middle reads ‘Seven Generations in the Ninth Heaven’, with a pair of kow-towing dragons, or other sacred animals and a lotus within a lace patterned frame; a tray of five fruits lies at the bottom. The two on the sides have parallel sentences in Chinese or Vietnamese, ‘Glory’ on one side and ‘Riches’ on the other, with a flower underneath. A simplified version consists of

A glass painting of Ba Ve strain

only one painting with the Chinese phrase ‘Seven Generation on Ninth Heaven’ in the middle, and the parallel sentences on the sides: Think of Buddha with every sip, Feel those in the Ninth Heaven day and night. Ba Ve strain produces a lot of decoration paintings, two-piece sets of chamber door paintings on topics such as ‘Spouses in harmony’, ‘Peony and phoenix’ (wealth and lll

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CRAFTS high life), and ‘Plumeria and peacock’ (freshness and splendour). There are also flower- painting sets of four with ochnaceae, orchid, daisy, and yellow bamboo, representing the four seasons of the year. There are also very simple paintings of countryside scenes, such as a brick house by a stream with a bridge across it, or a buffalo boy playing a flute. There is no limit for decoration topics, but all the paintings show the aspiration for peace and prosperity. Finally there are three particular paintings of the Ba Ve strain, related to the local religions: Precious Mount’s Fragrance, Four Gratitudes and Hoa Hao Buddhism. One shows the sacred Seven Mounts with the prophecy ‘On five mounts dragon and phoenix blossom/The seven mounts will be precious.’ The second depicts the Prajñā boat with the description verses ‘It’s the Prajñā boat I am steering/Resolute to save you from the river of blind passions.’ Third is a picture of a lotus on a brown background for followers of Hoa Hao Buddhism. lll

4. The Khmer strain

According to maestro Thach Narin-Det, Khmer glass paintings appeared in Tra Vinh during 1935 – 1936, and in Soc Trang in the ‘40s, and are continuing today. The ancestry worship paintings in this strain are mostly portraits. The person in the portrait wears traditional Khmer dress: a sampot, a square-collar shirt, a checked muffler or white ‘sen sam nak tho’, and sits on a carved wooden chair with or without cushions, next to a table with tea utensils and a flower vase on it. Behind the person is a curtained window. The floor is enamel tiles. The solemnly dressed body and everything else is usually ready-made, and when an order comes, the painter adds a face. A Khmer house has a Buddhist-style altar in the centre, but with one difference; the Khmer rarely use Buddha statues. They have paintings instead. During the New Year celebration (Chol chnam thmay) the Khmer bring their Buddha paintings to a temple for the ritual of bathing Buddha, and then take them home.

First impressions last forever

All Khmer paintings-on glass, wall or canvas-use the same themes, similes, style and colours. It is clear that the wall paintings came first, then those on canvas. Glass was very rare and therefore expensive. Since then, Hīnayāna Buddhism and Hinduism became infinite sources of themes and topics and inspiration for the folk artists. As in most of folk art, these paintings are two-dimensional, exploiting block building and colour shading techniques. Nowadays new techniques are also applied to create three dimensions and light effect, making them objects of high aesthetical value. Khmer folk artists are real virtuosos of their trade. They share the same themes and topics, but each master’s work is very distinct. And the Khmer glass paintings are very much different from those of the Hue, Cho Lon, Lai Thieu and Ba Ve strains. They all contribute to the common treasure that bears the signature of each community and ethnicity, making diverse yet unified works of art.n

FOLKISM

The movement of the soul Quang Nam Province

n the Co Tu language, ‘tung tung da da’ is a folk dance, a longstanding traditional ethnic dance of the Co Tu people in Quang Nam. ‘Tung tung’ is a dance that for Co Tu boys and men that re-enacts hunts for game and celebrations of victory in war. It embodies the elevated gallantry of the Co Tu people. The language of the dance suggests aspirations for hardy youths to rise to the perpetuation of their predecessors’ tradition and to maintain and protect their homeland of forests and mountains. When they dance, Co Tu men wear loincloths and pull over an embroidered woven upper

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The Co Tu people express identity and aspiration through dance

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY NGUYEN GIA PHUC

garment. They drag their bare feet on the ground while they grasp shields, spears and scimitars with their hands; otherwise they firmly hold hands with a companion while spreading out both arms as they step and shout confidently, energetically, and courageously at the same time. They exhibit the strength of their village’s men and fearlessness before the harshness of

nature or enemies who come to do harm. At the same time, they further manifest their confident inspirations as well as their love of life, home village, and the forests and mountains. ‘Da da’ is the Co Tu women’s dance, which originates from the movements of presenting oblations in the distant past. With such significance, the da da dance is reserved for Co Tu women and girls, who are naturally gentle, love their husbands and children, love the forests and mountains, and are quiet about everything, for the survival and development of the community. In order to display the da

FOLKISM Opposite and below: Tung tung dance for Co Tu boys and men Above: da da dance for Co Tu women da dance, Co Tu women wear woven brocade dresses that bare the shoulders and have many vividly-coloured patterns. Around their necks, they wear beaded necklaces. The women extend both arms with the hands palm-up and fingers pointing backwards to express the joyous reception of the sacred. They look straight ahead, their mouths constantly smiling. They drag their bare feet on tiptoe around in counter-clockwise circles. When they dance, the women’s feet stand erect. Their arms both extend towards their heads with the palms pointing backwards as if supporting the sky, resembling a pair of buffalo horns that symbolize ‘the head of a buffalo bubbling below the water’s surface’ — a cultural nuance of many ethnic minorities as in the Co Tu sacrificial statues. ‘Tung tung da da’ is an amalgamated dance that shows the integration of men, boys, women and girls, as well as of yin and yang in a vast universe that occurs at a singular time and spirals in a fixed circle. ‘Tung tung da da’ has become a component that encourages the effort to produce and develop. ‘Tung tung da da’ is, moreover, a space that intimates the love between couples, village friends, the forests and the Co Tu people. ‘Tung tung da da’ seems to suggest the close-knit attachment of people with one another and a more natural way of life. On 12 August, 2014, the National Heritage Council officially recognized the Quang Nam Co Tu style of ‘tung tung da da’ dance as a form of national immaterial culture heritage.n VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

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HISTORY

Defusing the past Unique danger tourism brings awareness of unexploded ordinance

Quang Tri Province

n Quang Tri, the most ‘minepolluted’ land of the country, there is a tour for visitors to get close to these deadly weapons. Not everybody knows about this new and exotic kind of tourism. Many local people, known among jokers by the dashing title ‘Bomb Sawyers,’ shook their heads when asked about it. The Renew Quang Tri organi-

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zation, with the aid of Norwegian People’s Aid and Vietnam Backpackers Hostels, created this unique tour. It’s been functioning for over two years, having taken 76 groups, mostly foreign, to the detonation sites. According to Renew, Quang Tri is the most heavily mine-polluted in the country, with 3,866 km² of mined land (83 per cent of the total area, while the country’s average is only 21 per cent). From 1975 to 2010, there were 7,035 victims of the leftover mines and bombs in Quang Tri, 31 per cent of who were children. When I registered with Mr Nguyen Thanh Phu, a staff mem-

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY NGUYEN PHUC

ber of Renew Quang Tri, in addition to my name, place of work and ID number, I had to check a blood type box on the form. ‘This tour involves mines and bombs, so one cannot be too careful. At the site, there are even more strict rules to guarantee absolute safety for visitors,’ he explained. Early that afternoon, a van picked him and I up at the Quang Tri province’s Exhibition Centre of Overcoming the Consequences of War to the detonation site at Vinh An Village, Cam Hieu Commune, Cam LoDistrict. In the van there were 15 young tourists from the UK, US, Norway, and Holland. Thomas Stone, head of Renew

HISTORY and one of the main founders of this fascinating tour, said, ‘like the previous 75 groups, this group’s members are young (aged 18-20), mainly students on summer vacation. They may at best know just a little about the Vietnam War through literature, and a little about bombs and mines through the TV, I guess.’ Thomas Stone has lived in Vietnam for over five years and had worked sometime at Phong Nha – Ke Bang National Park, Quang Binh Province. He has made a lot of efforts to promote the ‘mine tours’ in Quang Tri in the process of taking his ‘guests’ to discovering Vietnam, because ‘Just like me before, these young people only know vaguely about war, and they want to know more. I take them here to see, that after over 40 years, the weapons of war are still there, fully functional, in Quang Tri villages, in people’s living quarters. This is the fastest and simplest way for them to understand, to a certain extent, war and the pain of its aftermath.’ The van stopped at the end of a red soil path, surrounded by a desert, not too far from residential area. Mr Le Xuan Tung, head of Explosive Ordnance Disposal and his team were waiting for us. After explaining basic steps of his team’s work, he told us that morning, his team found three HE mortars, and two 40 mm shells in this area, all American made. ‘We will destroy these right here. We have prepared the ditches, sand bags, explosives and wires over there. You have 10 minutes to come to see the scene under our supervision before retreating to safety and watch the destruction,’ he said. We gathered at about 300 metres from the explosion field to watch the most thrilling part. Liam O’Connell, a 21-year old Englishman, was lucky to be assigned to

push the detonation button. Eyes and cameras were all ready. We heard a ‘boom’ and we saw a big, dense cloud of smoke and dirt. ‘It’s a hard to describe the sensation. I am still quite shocked.’ Liam confessed. Then the visitors can collect some shrapnel as a unique ‘trophy’ to show off to those back home. Thomas Stone told me that a part of the revenue of the tour is used to help the victims in Quang Tri. ‘I always hint and encourage the visitors to donate for the victims of mines and Agent Orange. The amount may be small, but money for this purpose can never be useless or wasted,’ he said. He also told me that he currently organizes two ‘mine tours’ a week, and the number of tourists who want to join the tour is increasing significantly. He hopes the amount of donation will also increase accordingly. To Phu, who accompanied almost all the 76 touring groups, the most rewarding thing is the transi-

tion of visitors’ emotions before and after seeing the mines and their destructive power. ‘Normally it takes some time to ponder after you see it. But it’s not easy for the descendants of American and South Vietnamese ex-military men. We show them the horrors of war, not to invoke the feeling of guilt, but to make them feel eager to heal, to promote peace and to share something with the victims,’ Phu said. Stories told by Mr Ngo Xuan Hieu, manager of communication and development of Renew Quang Tri, were even more heart-softening. An Irish doctor, Mr Aidan Ryan, moved by the ‘mine tour’, after coming home, has organized a bicycle event in Dublin in August, 2014, to raise money for Quang Tri mine victims. Or an overseas Vietnamese actor, Mr Trieu Tran, after visiting a family of Agent Orange victims in Cam Hieu Commune, Cam Lo District, has sent them $600 to rebuild their house.n

Opposite: The scene before destruction Above: The ordinance is exploded

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FESTIVALS

Ha Giang Province

A world G of diversity BY KHAI HOAN

Rich in tradition, the highlands festival has something for all

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oing to a fair or carnival is a good way to learn about the culture, customs and life of the highland ethnicities. It was a fortuitous blessing that I recently had a chance to take part in this lively event put on by the 23 minority groups living on the rocky Dong Van plateau, Meo Vac, Ha Giang Province. When the sky was still a thick grey mass, the sun was still hiding behind the mountains and the biting cold still devouring the plateau rocks, I heard the noises of people on the passes, calling and urging each other to make it to the carnival on time. Dong Van market is very old. It’s

a part of the old Dong Van town, the hub of economic and cultural trading on this plateau. This U-shaped structure, built of rocks, has long been the convergence point of the ethnic colours of the country’s northernmost land. On gathering days, these old, normally quiet and gray streets become crowded, colourful and lively. Hmong, Dao, Tay, Giay, Nung, Lolo ... folks in their traditional dresses from all directions, some from a few mountains away, pour down to town, bringing something to trade. Languages and dialects add rich flavours to the uneven rhythm of this boiling chorus of life.

FESTIVALS

The goods that change hands here are also ethnic, adding even more uniqueness to the gathering. There is produce and livestock, either made at home, or farmed or collected in the forests, such as vegetables, corn, rice, alcoholic beverages, honey, pigs, chickens, buffalos, cows and brocades. Some people bring just a very few almost worthless things, but the spirit is high nonetheless. They normally buy salt, kerosene, torchlights, blankets, and mosquito nets, things that are made in the low lands. Down the low lands, people come to bazaars just to trade goods. Up here, the fair is also a cultural

event. People come here to meet each other, to talk, to drink, to eat ‘thắng cố’ (meat soup consisting of cow, buffalo, goat, or horse innards). Here is the place for women to show off their best dresses, for men to show off with ‘khèn’ (a way of singing named after a sweet dessert.) Hard core travellers say, ‘Not having tasted thắng cố means not knowing the highland.’ A hot bowl of thắng cố, a glass of sweetsmelling corn vodka and the tunes of Hmong khèn will bring you the feel of this rocky plateau. Particularly, during the 14th, 15th and 16th of the lunar months,

According to Thanh Nien News, 27 March, 2014, Dong Van Market was relocated in 2011. The new site is a few hundreds of metres away from the old site. The relocation was necessary because the amount of sellers and buyers had increased, exceeding the market’s capacity. Also it was a must for the preservation of the ancient Dong Van Town, after the latter was recognized as a national relic site. many cultural activities, such as bird fights, a food fair, music, songs and dances, and traditional brocade weaving shows take place in this old town. At night, the streets are lit with red lanterns, attracting tourists to family brocade shows and old style cafés.n

Clockwise from left: Dong Van plateau, Ha Giang Province, Northernmost Vietnam. Photo: Kim Manh; Dong Van Market. Photos: Dang Van Tran and Do Huu Tien;

Dong Van Ancient Town. Photo: Mai Loc

VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

• 23

FOOD

Tubes of plenty BY LY HA

The Muong bamboo tube rice

ust put rice, the earth’s essence, into a bamboo tube that already has water filtered by the bamboo (heaven’s essence), and then onto a fire. That’s all there is the art. No one remembers when it came into the life of Muong people. It is not only a simple kind of food, but also a feature of the unique Muong culture. The old ones say this is an easy-to-prepare kind of food for when Muongs are scouting the forest with only a flint stone, a machete and a few days worth of sticky rice. Just cut a section of bamboo, put some rice into it and put it on the fire. That’s how it came into being. They found it tasty and aromatic, and began making it at home, too. And now, coming to this mountainous region without tasting a few chunks of bamboo tube rice, visitors would feel that something is missing. First, the bamboo section should be fresh, long, not too old, and not too young. Too old, and it will burn. Too young, it will wither and deform. The wall should be not too thin, and not too fat. There is normally a little water inside. It gives the rice the typical aroma that makes it appealing. It is the famous milpa glutinous rice that makes bamboo tube rice in Hoa Binh Province different from that of other places. The rice is harvested during the months of August and September. Rinsed cleanly,

soaked overnight, salted moderately, it is put into the bamboo. A little creek water is added, and the bamboo is covered tightly with banana leaves. The tubes are stood around a fire and turned regularly. It is normally cooked for about an hour. When the rice feels soft at the touch, it is ready. Ms Dinh of Mo Da Village, Ha Bi Commune, Kim Boi District, Hoa Binh Province, is famous for her bamboo tube rice. ‘The rice

24 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

has to be soft, opaque, with a buttery taste and the typical aroma of forest bamboo,’ she said. ‘After splitting the bamboo, the rice grains have to retain their form. To achieve this quality, the tube has to be full of rice, and tightly shut with banana leaves. Experienced people can tell if the rice is ready just by the smell.’ Today, the life of the Muong people has changed significantly. Bamboo tube rice is

FOOD Opposite, above: Chong Ro people making bamboo tube rice in Dong Nai Province. Photo: Bui Viet Dong Opposite, below: Bamboo tube rice. Photo: Hoai Phuong Right: Making bamboo tube rice. Photo: Ly Ha

not only their frequent food, but also a source of income for those living around the numerous tourist destinations of Hoa Binh Province. Ms Bui Thi Dien, a big bamboo tube rice producer of Mo Da Village, Ha Bi Commune, Kim Boi District, where the mineral water centre is located, told us that her family also has a small restaurant near the centre, which sells over 200 rice tubes a day, at VND5,000 each. They also receive orders from other food provider in the area, from Hoa Binh city and from Hanoi. Overall, rice tubes bring her family around VND100 million a year. Ms Dinh also said that cooking rice tubes has become an extra trade, apart from growing rice. According to Ms Bui Thi Dung, deputy chair of the People Committee of Ha Bi Commune, Kim Boi District, tourism has turned rice tubes into a source of income

for the people in her commune. ‘Rice tubes have helped improve the people’s lives. On the other hand, the local government also sees that the business has to be put under control. We have educated the people about hygiene and food safety, as well as cultural conservation. Commercialization needs to let the rice tubes be remain a cultural product. Profit should not take away

the cultural beauty of the Muong bamboo tube rice,’ she said. Rice tubes have made their way to big restaurants in the cities. But that doesn’t stop people from buying them in their native land, to bring home as an exotic gift that reveals the genuine and virgin flavour of the Muong land and helps remind urban dwellers of their own origins.n

TOURISM

Cao Bang Province

The long road to prosperity

TEXT BY DO QUANG TUAN HOANG AND PHOTOS BY TRUONG HA

Above: Reinforcing a stone jetty Opposite, left: selling home-grown vegetables Opposite, right: Forging iron tools

rom Cao Bang city centre, following the smooth asphaltic zigzags of the National Highway no. 3, Ms Truong Ha, a local reporter, and I came to Pac Rang, a unique village in Phuc Sen Commune, Quang Uyen District. We turned right to a concrete road among yellow corn, green vegetables and gray rocks, and the traffic noise quickly was reduced, replaced by the clanging of hammers, puffing of bellows and sizzling of hot iron in water. Iron forging is a traditional trade of the Nung An ethnicity here. Walking around the village under the shade of indigo-dyed cloths, we were most amazed to see that Pac Rang was so neat compared to most ethnic villages in the northern mountains, with concrete or brick paved streets, just like city sidewalks, a clean water supply sys-

26 窶｢ VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

tem that serves every household, a garbage collection system, a big drainage system, and no humans living right above the animals. Seeing a pretty, stilted house that leans on a rock wall and looks out to the plain fields, we entered its gates. A middle-aged man stopped hammering his unfinished knife to warmly invite us into the house. He was Long Van Hai, Pac Rang village chief. He made tea for us and called his wife Trieu Thi Dan to come out to receive the guests. His house, with stone walls outside, wooden floor, ying-yang tile roof, and mixed mud-hay partitioning walls inside, was built in 1996. Now it had acquired the beautiful sheen of time. It was one of the five stilted houses invested in by the Executive Committee of the Sustainable Tourism Development of the Extended SubMekong Region of Cao Bang

Province for community tourism. I was quite fascinated to see a house in such a remote place that had a clean and neat bathroom, with a mirror, a comb, towels, shampoos and shower creams. We were the first guests on whom our host had a chance to practice their hospitality skills. The husband lovingly showed us the secrets of iron forging, from selecting the steel of a car shock absorber, to hammering and tempering successively and continuously for ninety minutes to make a black, beautiful and sharp knife that would last at least fifteen years. A Nung An man that can not forge iron is considered useless. His wife related every detail of cotton planting, harvesting, threading, weaving, dyeing, sewing and embroidering to make a set of brocades that will last more than ten years and costs three million dong for men and six million for women. Then he took us to the fields in front of the house to show us the stone jetty. Nung people build terraces to plant rice, so they take care not to let the land slide. 窶連n upper terrace owner has to build a jetty to hold his land, the lower terrace owner in turn does the same for his

TOURISM

land. That way, everybody protects his land and water to grow rice, corn and beans,’ explained Long Van Chien, while reinforcing his jetty. Highland people collect stones, big and small, assemble them like a jigsaw puzzle to make them fit each other, then mortar the wall with dirt or cement. These walls stand strong against buffalo butts and the weather for centuries, not only to protect the terraces, but also as a unique cultural feature. When we came back, dinner was ready on a straw mat spread in front of the house. Ms Dan had prepared for us all the smells and tastes of local specialties: steamed grilled pork, stir-fried beef with forest vegetables, pork BBQ and fried fish from a nearby creek. Having exotic food and drinks and a conversation with hospitable and simple-hearted Nung An folks amidst the mountains was something to remember. At nightfall, we mingled with a group of artists and the villagers in their traditional songs and dances. The development project, sponsored by Asian Development Bank, aims at helping the local communities that have potential to develop ecotourism and community tourism in order to eliminate poverty step by step. Pac Rang village had 51 households, with over 400 Nung An ethnic persons. They lived in an area of 167,000 square metres for many generations. Surrounded by high mountains, stilted houses grouped together among paddy fields, creeks and a water mine, it creates an idyllic, peaceful scenery. The people here have the trades of iron forging, stonework and weaving, and many unique songs and dances. In early 2009, Pac Rang was officially chosen to be the first community tourist attraction of

Cao Bang Province. The first obstacle the committee had to overcome was the problem with livestock. Ms Nhan Thi Minh Thi, deputy head of the Department of Culture and deputy director of the development project, still shudder at their first impression of five years before. The Nung An used to use the space under the floor to keep working tools, firewood and livestock. The floor is where all the living activities take place. Humans and animals were separated only by a layer of wooden or bamboo boards. The animals ate, defecated and pissed on the ground, then walked and lied down on it all. Year after year, layers of filth accumulated. Ms Thi recalls, ‘The stench was permanent in the village. Flies and mosquitoes swarmed around. Everybody had to cover their nose. When we proposed to move the livestock away for better hygiene, the reaction was overwhelming. ‘This is our way for generations.’ ‘You can’t separate us from our livestock, what if bad guys steal them to sell in China?’ We had to slowly answer their questions, explaining bit by bit. The project’s executive committee built each family a house with two rooms to keep the animals, but the next time we came, they were still beneath the floor. We asked why the animals were not moved, they said because they were too tired or too busy. So we took off our shoes, rolled up our sleeves, put on hygiene masks and waded in to the ankle-deep faeces to clean it up. It took us nearly a year! Now all the households have a separate livestock houses and a clean ground under the floor. What a feat!’ Having cleaned up under the floors, the project built for each family peripheral facil-

ities, including a shower room, an autolytic toilet, a bio-gas chamber for animal excrement, and gave them a gas stove that was cleaner and that freed them from having to collect firewood in the forest. Then we invited the Vietnam Project Management Consulting Company to plan a community tourist destination at blacksmith village Pac Rang for 2005. The plan included a twostorey village cultural centre with over 120 square metres for communal activities and artefact exhibition, with computers connected to the internet. Then, we built parking spaces, sport courts for the villagers, concrete and brick roads, connected clean water supply pipes to every house and a smoke outlet for every furnace. The project’s most important activity was skill improvement for the community. The project executive committee opened hospitality skill classes for the folks and a crash English class for 20 persons. Ms Thi said, ‘The project was conducted from 2009 to 2013, with a nearly 12 billion dong ($571,428) investment. Right now, five among 56 households are ready to receive tourist guests. We donated to each family four sets of blankets, pillows, mattresses and bed sheets to encourage them to offer services to guests. We helped them to build the price list: VND40,000 ($1.90)/meal/person and VND60,000 ($2.86)/bed/night. We helped them print info sheets and bulletins to distribute at domestic and international tourist fairs to promote this new destination. We will also help them to create a fund, to extract a part of the revenue to reinvest in community development.’n

VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

• 27

The mud and the darkness

ark Cave is about 20 kilometres from Phong Nha Cave, Quang Binh Province, by road. Examined by British Royal explorers in 1990 and 1992, its entry way is 20 metres wide and 40 metres high. The cave is 5,258 metres long, and the ceiling inside is up to 80 metres high. Like many other caves in Phong Nha - Ke Bang area, it has a dry part and a submerged part. The darkness inside the cave is thick, much thicker than in other caves. So thick that one feels one can scoop it. That’s why people call it the Dark Cave. Visitors can get on a boat at Phong Nha landing on Son River, go upstream and then follow Chay River for about five kilometres to reach the Dark Cave. Or, from Dong Hoi City to Phong Nha - Ke Bang Heritage Centre, it takes 40 minutes to drive on the fabulous Ho Chi Minh trail. The Zip Line entertainment park is 17 kilometres from there. Then I and my friends rode a zip line over the Chay River and took a boat to Dark Cave. The entry is a mysterious narrow hollow in a gigantic lime stone mass. When we went inside, darkness immediately enveloped us. Without the stairs and a guide, few would dare to come in. We admired a big stalagmite standing guard at the entrance, with a wavy surface covered by tiny, glittering grains. We found fossilized shells in the cave walls. There was even a fish skeleton high above. We had to climb up a large rock to see it in its entirety.

TOURISM

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY TRUONG QUANG NAM

The deeper we went, the darker it became, and the more fascinating. We followed a section of a cave river, wading waist-deep in cold water, and then turned to another path to walk in mud. Nobody would expect such a path amidst stone walls. Amazing! It was very narrow; at times the bottom was just wide enough for our feet. Mud covered the walls and stalactites. The path zigzagged for about 10 minutes, and we came to a wide area, with soft, fine mud that thickly covered the slopes, allowing us to slide like kids, then splash into a muddy ditch. We yelled like kids and let the mud cover us from head to toe. ‘Nothing anywhere can compare to this muddy joy,’ Pon, a foreign tourist exclaimed. He and his pal had a specialized camera. One snapped continuously while the other slid and fell and splashed. At the end of the muddy path we cheered loudly again, seeing another muddy hole about 20 metres in diameter. Again, sliding and falling, eagerly and wildly. The mud penetrated our skin, feeling like an elixir of life. We turned off all the lights on our helmets to enjoy the primeval darkness and the silence, disturbed only by dripping water. After a few minutes of soaking in the mud, we turned to another path that led to the Thuy Tien pool. It was quite big, with clear, cool water. On the other side of the pool there was a passage, about two metres wide, leading to a submerged interstice. We dived through it and emerged to a field of rugged rocks. We sat there for a while, enjoying

the air, the absolute silence and the perilous beauty of the rocks, and then went back, finishing the exploration of the Dark Cave to join sportive games that take place on Chay River. For a long time, people said that Phong Nha - Ke Bang is like a beautiful woman that one can only look at, without touching. That’s because monotonous sight-seeing was the only thing available here. Lately, some tour companies have ventured into the realm of adventure tourism with considerable success. Last August, zip line, a daring sport, appeared in Phong Nha - Ke Bang for the first time. Tourists can cable slide 400 metres from the wildlife watch station to Dark Cave, and slide further to a creek bath site. To guarantee safety for guests, Phong Nha - Ke Bang tourist centre has hired three Vietnamese mountain climbers to train mountain climbing and cable sliding here. Since the opening of zip line services, the area has become much livelier. Every day it receives on average 60-80 tourists, mostly foreign. According to Mr Le Thanh Loi, Phong Nha - Ke Bang tourist centre’s director, his centre will soon invest in the Chay River and Dark Cave area to create more attractions such as a suspension bridge or homestead eco tourism, so tourists will have a more in-depth experience of this land of caves.n

Clockwise from top: Inside Dark Cave; Entrance of Dark Cave; Riding a zip line crossing Chay River

VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

• 29

TRAVEL

A short jungle trek on Con Dao

S Con Dao Islands

o Ray is a fruit and vegetable plantation hacked out of the jungle on a plateau, rising 210 metres above sea level on Con Dao's main island. It was cleared by prisoners of the French settlement to supply the tables of their captors. Looking half way up the mountains above the island's little town of Cay Bang you can spot a blue pavilion. This marks So Ray. We were a party of three. My fourteen-year-old daughter and her nineteen-year-old cousin were

30 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

TEXT AND PHOTO BY PIP DE ROUVRAY

joining me. We set out from our beach front hotel, deciding to walk the two kilometres along a quiet country lane to the base of So Ray. Whilst this was a day to be close to nature, you cannot escape Con Dao's grim past as a penal colony. On the outskirts of town, we passed what was ‘The Cow Shed’. As it name implies, in this prison, inmates were treated like animals. Just across the way, there is a sign with explanation in Vietnamese and English, marking the place of execution of prisoners, including

twenty-two buried alive after a mass break out. But soon, we were in the country, passing grazing brown cows and lakes covered with blooming red lotus flowers. We visited the National Park Headquarters Visitors Centre, which has an excellent exhibition on the fauna to be found on Con Dao, including a rare Dugong (Sea Cow), preserved in formaldehyde in a tank. Then, back on the road, there were glimpses of the endemic Con Dao black squirrel frolicking in the trees.

TRAVEL We reached the base of the track up to So Ray and there had been changes since I made my two previous ascents. On the positive side, you can now climb up directly after having had breakfast. A bright sparklingly clean villa has been converted into the So Ray Guest House. Less happily, the sign board which previously had announced the British Petroleum-sponsored So Ray project had changed. This project was designed to save rare species of flora after the havoc wreaked by Typhoon Linda in 1997, which destroyed swathes of the jungle. The sign now threatened ‘No Ticket, No Entry’. I had been unaware that this was considered part of the National Park. If you want a walk up a jungle pathway, there are plenty of places to have this experience without paying. On the other hand, contributing to the upkeep of Con Dao's natural beauty is a noble act. We would have been willing to buy our tickets, but there was no one there to get them from and we were not going back to the Headquarters on foot to do so. So we just carried on regardless. I would not advise going up if it has been raining. It will be more slippery and the first section will turn into a stream. It was under such conditions when I walked up the second time. That time I was lucky and I was amazed to see, so far from the beach, a large crab. In those days, information was hard to come by, but this time I had noted in the Visitor centre that there are two species of forest crab on Con Dao. Justification for charging for the climb could be the four boards along the way that give information. One, for example, explains that trees that grow on mountains have long roots that lie shallow in the soil so as to anchor them well. Certainly some of these huge roots provided seats for rest stops. Another explains that you are in the richest biome on the planet.

This may be so, but one tree looks just like another and you will hear a variety of bird chatter but the feathered friends are pretty good at hiding themselves. The most common sight is skinks basking on rocks. I tried to photograph these beautiful creatures with their golden backs and bluish tails, but they always shot off at the last moment. One jungle sound that I enjoy is that of the Tokay lizard - tac ke, tac ke is the cry that gives it its onomatopoeic Vietnamese name. Basically, this walk is like going up a tube of greenery. You almost feel as if you are wearing the jungle. There are no views. You are simply enveloped by nature. The way is steep and winding. I found it heavy on the legs and the girls, too unused to any kind of walking, had to rest frequently. Suddenly, light comes shining through above you and you know, thankfully, you are near the top. At this point, we heard the whooping of monkeys. I had met them on my first visit. They had come out to meet me at this point. I was hoping this time they would keep their distance. We had a long rest and finished drinking our water on seats around a picnic table at the top. Then we walked along a path and climbed steps up to the balcony of the pavilion. Our forty-minute climb was rewarded by superb views of the town below and seven of the archipelago's islands gleaming in the azure ocean. Then my daughter cried ‘a monkey is coming!’ Sure enough, a handsomely bearded male was climbing the stairs. I was just wondering why when it grabbed a plastic bag we had left in the corner of the balcony. There was nothing in it but fruit, empty plastic bottles and a packet of potato crisps but I felt indignant at having been robbed. After some moments of disbelief, I followed it down to the jungle edge. The monkey inside of me came out as I grunted and grimaced at

Basically, this walk is like going up a tube of greenery. You almost feel as if you are wearing the jungle. it, brandishing the hotel umbrella I had been using as a staff for leverage. It fell back and I saw that this was a family of four monkeys. There were Mum, Dad and two kids. These monkeys have not lost their fear of man, but as I read on the Internet about foolish people bringing bananas up here, they may soon do so. I found my bag. It seems the monkey had made the same poor dietary choice as some people did .He left the fruit and gobbled up the crisps. These monkeys are unique to Con Dao. They are one of ten sub species of Long Tailed Macaques. Another name for them is the Crab Eating Macaque, though this now should be changed to Poca Eating. Another name is even more curious. It is Cynomolgous Monkey, which means ‘dog milker’. I learned that they have been on Con Dao a long time. Eighteen million years in fact! I advised the youngsters that whilst going down was going to be lot less exhausting, they needed to be very careful. Whilst I managed to keep upright, my daughter did slip a couple of times. Once back on the road, I decided to walk back the other way and make a circular route back. But it was too much for the girls, so we stopped at a cafe. We took muchneeded refreshment and called for a taxi. We arrived back at the hotel having worked up a very good appetite for lunch. I can highly recommend to you this half-day walk on your list of things to do on Con Dao. Please respect nature if you do, especially leaving the monkeys well alone and buy your ticket before. You may not be as lucky as we were. Happy trekking!n

Opposite: View from the pavilion at So Ray, formerly a plantation worked by Vietnamese political prisoners

VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

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WHAT THE PAPERS SAY Lumberjacks aim saws at downtown allée

Ho Chi Minh City to add rowboat tours to downtown canal

www.thanhniennews.com, 27 September Ho Chi Minh City plans to introduce rowboats to allow tourists to travel an attractive portion of the Nhieu Loc-Thi Nghe canal, starting this December. Ten boats managed by the Saigon Boat Company will be rowed along the canal between the Saigon Zoo and Vinh Nghiem Pagoda. A one-way trip will take around two hours and each boat will be able to carry 20 passengers, Thoi Bao Kinh Te Saigon Online reported. The boats will run every day from early morning to 11 p.m.

Endangered primate returned to wild

Thanh Nien News, 2 October Forest rangers in the central city of Danang released an endangered douc langur to a nature reserve on Thursday. The douc was previously discovered by Phan Van Quy, a local farmer, in a forest in Hoa Vang District. He then handed over the douc to the Hoa Vang District Forest Protection Division, which in turn took care of the animal and released it to the Son Tra Peninsula Nature Reserve. The douc langurs are regarded among the most beautiful primates in the world. All three species are endemic to Indochina. The three species are the red-shanked douc langur (Pygathrix nemaeus), black-shanked douc langur (Pygathix nigripes) and gray-shanked douc langur (Pygathix cinereus). 32 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

www.thanhniennews.com, 3 October Ho Chi Minh City plans to clear a majestic allée of nearly 100 mahogany trees on Ton Duc Thang Street to make way for a bridge connecting Districts 1 and 2. Ton Duc Thang is considered one of the most beautiful boulevards in Vietnam's southern metropolis, thanks largely in part to its massive canopy of trees. The Thu Thiem 2 bridge will connect a new development area on the opposite side of the river to the city’s centre. It will empty out precisely where the trees stand. The plan has stricken many city dwellers with nostalgia and misgivings - particularly since the city abruptly cleared the heart of District 1 of trees in July to make way for the country's first subway station.

Vietnam airport offers free Wi-Fi, resumes sleeping pods

www.thanhniennews.com, 6 October The Ministry of Transport has allowed Vietnam Airlines Tourism Company (VATC) to resume sleeping pods at Hanoi’s Noi Bai International Airport after the service was suspended more than two months ago. Meanwhile, the airport has supplied free Wi-Fi at the terminal and furnishing an additional of 500 trolleys to serve increasing passengers.

Bringing trail biking to Vietnam

tuoitrenews.vn, 22 September Since 2008, the first few trail bikers in Vietnam have cherished their dream of taking the fledging sport to international competitions, and part of their dream has now been fulfilled, with the launch of the country’s first practice course. The newly-built 3,000m² course in Ho Chi Minh City’s Binh Tan District meets 70 percent of the international standard.

Antiques excavated in Truong Sa affirm Vietnam’s sovereignty

tuoitrenews.vn, 26 September The Vietnam Institute of Archaeology reported that it has found a number of artefacts dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries in the Truong Sa (Spratly) archipelago, off central Vietnam’s Khanh Hoa Province, which help affirm the country’s sovereignty over the islands. The institute said at a conference that its excavation, which began in late June, was conducted on several islets, including Truong Sa Lon, Nam Yet, Phan Vinh, and Son Ca. The new findings help consolidate those from previous excavations conducted in 1993, 1994, and 1999. They also serve as concrete evidence that Vietnamese people in prehistoric times owned the archipelago, and have fished in the seas around it ever since.

Vietnam locations among TripAdvisor’s top Asian destinations

tuoitrenews.vn, 5 October Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Hoi An have been listed among the top 25 destinations in Asia by travel website TripAdvisor. Hanoi was ranked second, while Ho Chi Minh City and Hoi An Ancient Town placed 9th and 14th, respectively.

Biodiversity conservation centre opened

vietnamnews.vn, 1 September A rescue and conservation centre was opened in Hoang Lien National Park in the northern mountainous province of Lao Cai in the end of August. Nguyen Quang Vinh, director of the Hoang Lien National Park, said the establishment of the centre was particularly important since the park was given an ‘A’ rating - the highest rating possible - by the Global Environment Fund for the value of its biodiversity. The 30,000ha park was recognised

WHAT THE PAPERS SAY by the ASEAN Secretariat as a regional heritage site in 2006. The park is surrounded by a buffer zone of 38,724ha, which borders a number of communes in the northern province of Lai Chau.

Authorities step in to save old trees

vietnamnews.vn, 4 September The Hanoi People's Committee has asked Hanoi Urban Railway Management Unit to try to avoid chopping down many old trees to make way for a future metro line. In August, Le Huy Hoang, deputy director of the unit, caused a public outcry when he revealed that more than 30 huge, ancient trees in Kim Ma Street in Ba Dinh District would have to go to make space for the line from Nhon to Hanoi Railway Station. The trees took more than 40 years to grow to their present size. Hoang said his unit was working with a contractor for a detail solution for moving the trees to Hanoi Railway Station in October if approved by the city authority.

Old Quarter to get new food street

Vietnamnews, 15 September A plan is being studied to establish a onestop food street for vendors in the Old Quarter area of Hanoi. It is the first phase in a comprehensive project by the Hoan Kiem District People's Committee to transform the Old Quarter area into a more attractive destination to all visitors - foreigners and Vietnamese. Many did not even know there was such a variety of stalls and restaurants hidden away in the network of streets. Hanoi has also been ranked among Asia's 10 greatest food cities by CNN Travel.

Course helps protect endangered primates

vietnamnews.vn, 22 September The Frankfurt Zoological Society's Vietnam Primate Conservation Programme will host an eight-day training course for students at the city's Teachers' Training College. The annual course aims to raise awareness about endangered primate protection in Vietnam's central and Central Highlands regions. Students will visit Kon Ka Kinh Park in Gia Lai

Province, home to 250 grey-shanked douc. Vietnam is one of 30 countries in the world with a population of grey-shanked douc. About 1,000 animals live in forests in Binh Dinh, Quang Nam, Quang Ngai, Gia Lai and Kon Tum provinces.

Campaign to educate older men about rhinos

vietnamnews.vn, 23 September Population Services International in Vietnam and the wildlife trade monitoring network TRAFFIC launched a communication campaign in September that aims to reduce demand for rhino horn among middle-aged men. The campaign, entitled Strength of Chi (Will), states that success, masculinity and good luck flow from an individual's internal strength of character â&#x20AC;&#x201C; not a piece of rhino horn. It will target urban men aged between 3550 in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City through integrated channels, including outdoor, in-store and digital billboards, mobile messaging and testimonials through mass media.

Project helps promote non-fired brick usage

vietnamnews.vn, 24 September The Prime Minister has approved a project to promote non-fired brick (NFB) production and utilisation. The project aims to help Vietnam reduce greenhouse gas emissions by gradually cutting down on the use of fossil fuels and good quality soil for brick making, while increasing the production, sales and utilisation of NFBs. In the decade following project completion, direct and indirect CO2 emissions will be reduced by an estimated 383 ktonnes and 13,400 ktonnes.

Ancient ceramics found at sea

Vietnam News, 8 October Fragments of ceramic ware and stone statuary ware from an old shipwreck have been found on an ancient ship found under water near the islet of An Binh, 3km from Ly Son Island in the central province of Quang Ngai. Experts believed the ceramics are from the 13th and 15th centuries. The province has not yet decided to lift the

700-year-old shipwreck out of the water. An international conference on shipwrecks will be held in the province from 14-16 October .

Bac Ninh to restore old quan ho houses

Vietnam News, 9 October The Culture, Sports and Tourism Department of Bac Ninh Province has invested VND12 billion (about $570,000) to restore two quan ho (love song duet) houses. These houses were originally used as places for quan ho artists to gather for training and performances or to receive fellow singers from other villages. Replicas of the seven-component ancientstyle house, the two houses are being built in Van An Ward in Bac Ninh City, and in the Lung Giang Hamlet in Lim Town in Tien Du District.

More Champa relics discovered

Vietnam Net English, 8 October The Binh Dinh Museum has announced the discovery of more than 600 items during a recent archaeological excavation of Champa ruins at Thu Thien Thuong Village, Binh Nghi Commune, Tay Son District. The museum is home to two valuable items from the Champa culture, found in 1989. They are an embossment of the god Mahishamardini and a round stone altar that looks like the bronze drum of the ancient Vietnamese. Central Binh Dinh Province has the largest number of Champa vestiges in the country, with 14 Cham towers.

Rare plant species discovered

Vietnam Net English, 9 October Vietnamese scientists at Xuan Lien Nature Reserve have discovered a new floral species, which is named Aristolochia xuanlienensis, in Thanh Hoa Province. Scientists said that the newly-found plant belongs to Aristolochiaceae family. It is the unique of its kind so far in the world. The scientists also found three more species which had never ever been recorded in Vietnam, including Lindernia megaphylla PC, Kailarsenia lineata R.Br, and Didymocarpus pupureobracteatus Smith.

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EVENTS HANOI

EXHIBITIONS Paper horses Till 26 October

Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi. Open: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Not Quite Landscapes From 12 October to 12 November

Minimal Asian From 19 October to 9 November

Artist Vu Duc Trung presents lacquer-art at the solo exhibition ‘Not Quite Landscapes’ at Dong Phong Art Gallery from 12 October to 12 November. In Vu Duc Trung’s work, nature is rendered using traditional methods of lacquer painting to produce an array of colours in which shapes and figures have been eliminated. Vu Duc Trung does not coerce the viewer into views of preconceived forms, but rather lets them experience a carefree and pleasing sense of nature between heaven and earth. The most striking feature of this exhibition is the round lacquer boards on which all the paintings are made. Dong Phong Art Gallery, 3 Ly Dao Thanh St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi. Open: 9.30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

On the occasion of a 12 year celebration, Module 7 presents an interior exhibition titled ‘Minimal Asian’ by designer and founder of Module 7, Pham Kieu Phuc, from 19 October to 9 November. The exhibition aims to preserve and raise the value of handicraft production methods using local materials including woods, ceramics, bronze, bamboo and lacquer. Module 7, 83 Xuan Dieu St,

Colours talk Until 4 December Art Tunnel Gallery presents an exhibition ‘Colours Changing Hues’ till 4 December. The organizer said ‘In art, an artwork attracts viewers because of not only its idea and content but also its emotional attraction. Why does a painting have such a strong obsessing attraction to viewers? 80 per cent of the reasons may be related to the human’s sense of colours. Colour affects us, resonating in memory, instinct, the body and all the five senses.’ In this display, by arranging artworks, the organizer hopes to bring a multidimensional experience of sense and feeling to all art lovers. Art Tunnel Gallery, 16 Trang Tien St, Hanoi

An exhibition by Trieu Tuan Long is on display at L’Espace till 26 October. His art installation is a herd of seven horses calmly grazing in a meadow. These horses are crafted from Boi papers, a Vietnamese traditional material, and are covered with randomly arranged pictures conveying messages such as: Are social media networks gradually dominating our life? Transmitting information by horseback enables us to search for information, screen and make it ours. But most importantly, it allows us to live more slowly. L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. Free entrance.

34 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

Variety art show Until 9 October, 2015 28 artworks by many artists, including oil paintings, lacquer paintings, silk paintings, paper paintings, synthetic material and sculpture are on at Vietnam Fine Arts Museum till next year. The exhibition gives a comprehensive overview about the developing modern art of Vietnam through the richness of styles and materials. Vietnam Fine Arts Museum, 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi. Open: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee: VND20,000 Pictures of poverty 27 October to 8 November

To commemorate the 20th anniversary of Agence Française de Développement (AFD) in Vietnam, a photo exhibition is organized at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hanoi, from 27 October to 8 November. The exhibition includes 20 photographs about Vietnamese landscapes and regional people where flagship projects were conducted by AFD in Vietnam. AFD is a public development financial institution that has been working to fight poverty and promote sustainable development in the South and the French Overseas Communities for over 70 years. New form Until 4 November Manzi Art Space presents an exhibition titled ‘New Form: Sculpture – Architecture – Space’ by Vietnamese group artists including Pham Thai Binh, Thai Nhat Minh, Khong Do Tuyen and Hoang Mai Thiep. ‘New Form’ is an experimental sculpture project, which aims to overcome

stereotypes of traditional sculpture and to open up new directions in thinking and creative possibilities of this art form. Artworks are displayed at Manzi Art Space, 14 Phan Huy Ich St, Hanoi until 4 November. The blood of the workers Till undetermined date The Vietnam National Museum of History has launched an exhibition on Vietnam's Land Reform, to continue until an undetermined date. The exhibition features some 133 items, pictures and documents on the mass Land Reform in the northern region (1946-1957). The exhibition features contrasting images of the rich land owners and poor peasants, luxurious furniture and clothing the landowners kept at home, models of peasant cottages, a punitive rod used by landowners, and a book recording the taxes that share croppers paid in rice. The exhibits are divided into four sections, including life before and after the Land Reform, wrongdoings in the process and corrections made. Vietnam National Museum of History, 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed every first Monday. MUSIC An evening of fine music 25 October A night concert by the band Song Hong Chamber Music will perform ‘trio op.50’ by Tchaikovsky, ‘quartet in G minor’ by Grieg and ‘quartet No.3’ by Chostakovitch at 8 p.m. 25 October at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. Ticket: VND160,000 and half price for students. Tel: (04)3936-21 64

Verdi’s ‘Requiem’ 22 and 23 October The concert, ‘Requiem’, with conductor Honna Tetsuji, soprano Thang Long, alto Vanh Khuyen, tenor Anh Vu, baritone Manh Dung and artists from Vietnam National Opera and Ballet, Hanoi University of Arts Education, Hanoi International Choir, Hanoi Freude Choir and the Vietnam National Symphony

Orchestra, will be held at 8 p.m. on 23 and 24 October at Hanoi Opera House. Tickets: VND200,000, VND350,000, VND500,000. Tickets are available at Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi or call 0913489858 for free delivery. VNSO, soloist to perform 30 and 31 October Conductor Olivier Leo Schmidt accompanied by piano soloist Dao Trong Tuyen and artists from the Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra will perform at 8 p.m. on 30 and 31 October at Hanoi Opera House. Tickets: VND200,000, VND350,000 and VND500,000. Tickets are available at Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi or call 0913489858 for free delivery.

FESTIVAL Days of wine Till 31 October As an ambassador of French culture, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi will join Sofitel Luxury Hotels around the world to celebrate this year’s grape harvest in France through an event ‘Sofitel Wine Days’ till 31 October. Guests have chances to enjoy French wines from renowned wineries including Rothschild, Guigal, Alain Chabanon, Daumas Gassac, Brumont, Trimbach, Jadot, and Bordeaux. Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi.

Oktoberfest Hanoi 23 and 24 October Germany’s largest cultural event, Oktoberfest, will be celebrated in Hanoi this year at the JW Marriott Hotel from 6 p.m. till midnight on 23 and 24 October. Guests will be served unlimited Paulaner Hefe Weissbier while a German band plays Bavarian classics. Fun games and lucky draws will also be held. Tickets are VND1.1 million for individuals and VND1 million for members of the German Business Association (GBA), available at the JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc St, Me Tri, Nam Tu Liem Dist.,

EVENTS

Hanoi, tel: (04) 3833 5588 and GIC/AHK Vietnam at 1303 Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai St, Hanoi, tel: (04) 3825 1420.

HOA BINH

Prize-winning art Till 25 October

A group of 23 artists will bring to the ‘Hoa Binh’s Fine Art Exhibition 2014’ 33 artworks of lacquer, oil, silk, acrylic, ceramics and sculpture. Most of the artworks participated in the 2014 Fine Art Exhibition of Region III, Bac Can Province. Artist Tran Thi Thu has won first prize in the Region III contest and is one of four artists to receive the Vietnam Fine Arts Association award for her painting ‘Me’, selected from eight national applicants. The exhibition is on at the Muong’s Cultural Museum, 202 Tay Tien St, Thai Binh Dist., Hoa Binh Province, till 25 October. Open: 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.

SAPA

Northern life Until the end of 2014 More than 50 photos and paintings featuring the life and culture of ethnic minorities, and the landscape of Sapa are on display at Lao Cai Tourist Information Centre, 2 Fansipan, Sapa, until the end of year 2014. The exhibition aims to raise fund for poor children in Sa Pa and Ta Phin communes. Hours: 7 a.m. to 5.30 p.m.

HO CHI MINH CITY

EXHIBITIONS A love affair with lacquer 3 November

A solo exhibition of lacquer paintings by Nguyen Quang Son is on at Craig Thomas Gallery till 3 November. Nguyen Quang Son was born and raised in ‘lacquer village’ in Binh Duong Province. The artist says, ‘Growing up in a family wedded to the use and production of lacquer, it is quite natural for me to pursue this as my artistic practice. I know and understand this special material and am more intrigued by the possibilities of lacquer than I am of any other kind of creative material.’ His fluency with the entire lacquer process is evident in the flawless colours and smooth finishing achieved in the paintings. The exhibition features abstract paintings. He uses large quantities of sliced pieces of mother of pearl, inlaid into the lacquer and sanded. Set against the deep black background of the lacquer, Son’s images glitter and sparkle evoking the infinite cosmos. Craig Thomas Gallery, 27i Tran Nhat Duat St, Tan Dinh ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Open: Tuesday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sundays 1p.m. to 5 p.m. Through yonder window Until 31 October

Galerie Quynh is holding ‘That Little Distance’, an exhibition by Hanoi-based photographer Jamie Maxtone-Graham till 31 October. This is the artist’s first exhibition in Ho Chi Minh City. The exhibition features photographs produced in the derelict setting of a former factory, where the only light source was daylight passing through a large, northfacing window. Each photo was taken with an exposure of 15 to 20 seconds. With a nod to 17th century Dutch painting and the memento mori genre, the dramatic light in the photos lends the work a sacred and serene air. Galerie Quynh, Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Open: 10 a.m. – 7 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday. New art show ‘drops’ Till 18 October ‘Drop’ is the title of a group exhibition by Tiffany Chung, Ha Manh Thang, Sandrine Llouquet, Nguyen Manh Hung, Tran Van Thao, Truc-Anh and Lien Truong. The exhibition is on at Galerie Quynh till 18 October. Tran Van Thao presents a new series of joyful abstract paintings alongside mysterious and brooding sculptures of paper and metal by TrucAnh. Nguyen Manh Hung unveils a new painting that humorously retells a familiar fable, while Ha Manh Thang shows landscapes that raise ideas about monumentality and doubt. Tiffany Chung and Lien Truong exhibit poetic chronicles of traumatic topographies through different creative processes. Sandrine Llouquet, in her idiosyncratic disturbing and fantastical style, presents drawings incorporating the pharmaceutical product methylene blue. Galerie Quynh, 65 De Tham, Dist1, Ho Chi Minh City. Open hour: Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; closed Sundays and Mondays. Multi-media Till 30 October Autumn Galleria, a group exhibition using drawing, painting, and photography, is on at Sàn Art, 3 Me Linh St, Binh Thanh Dist, Ho Chi Minh City, till 30 October.

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EVENTS

The exhibition displays works of artists Thao Nguyen, Phan Quang, Nguyen Thai Tuan, Le Phi Long, Nguyen Van Du and Bich Phuong. Japanese antique show Till 28 February, 2015 More than 200 Japanese antiques are being displayed at an exhibition at the Ho Chi Minh City History Museum, 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, till 28 February, 2015. The objects are made from a wide range of materials, with a focus on a number of themes including worship, decoration, and handicrafts. The exhibition is to showcase the hallmark of trade between Japan and Vietnam in the 16th century.

November at Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. The show has participation of conductor Magnus Loddgard, Magnus Staveland (tenor), Halvor.F.Melien (baritone), Derek Anthony (bass), Cho Hae Ryong (soprano) and artists from the Ho Chi Minh City Ballet Symphony Orchestra and Opera. Tickets: VND400,000, VND550,000 and VND650,000. Students enjoy a price of VND150,000. Tickets are available at the Opera House or call (08) 38237419 for delivery. Japanese instrumental rock 29 October

MUSIC Beethoven and Brahms at night 19 October

A ‘Beethoven and Brahms’ concert will be performed at 8 p.m. on 19 October at the Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. The performance will be conducted by Alexander Merzyn, violinist Hellen Weiss, cellist Gabriel Adriano Schwabe and artists from Ho Chi Minh City Ballet Symphony Orchestra and Opera. Tickets: VND200,000, VND350,000, VND400,000. Students enjoy the price at VND80,000. Tickets are available at the Opera House or call (08) 38237419 for delivery. Magic Flute 8 and 9 November Mozart’s ‘The Magic Flute’ will be on at 8 p.m. on 8 and 9

where guests can enjoy a ‘sexiest costume contest’, wild games, live music and ‘unlimited fun.’ At 9 p.m. on 1 November, the café will host the ‘Halloween Zumba Party’. The party will feature a performance by a dance crew from Nicky’s Zumba Fitness Club and Bad Neighbour band. Guests are encouraged to be in Halloween costume and dance and sing along with Zumba melodies. The party’s entrance fee is VND150,000; a portion of the ticket price will go to Mai Tam House of Hope to support abandoned HIV-infected children in Ho Chi Minh City. Tickets are now available at Hard Rock Café HCMC, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan St, Dist.1. Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 6291 7595.

FESTIVAL Eins, zwei, drei, Prost! 14 to 18 October Oktoberfest, a celebration of German culture, will be organ A night of instrumental rock will be performed by MONO from Japan at 8 p.m. 29 October at Ho Chi Minh Conservatory of Music, 112 Nguyen Du St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tickets: VND500,000 and VND700,000. Hard Rock scares up a good time 31 October and 1 November

Hard Rock Café Ho Chi Minh City will transform itself into the scariest place in town in preparation for its two coming Halloween parties. At 8 p.m. on 31 October, the café will become a ghost house

36 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

ized from 14 October to 18 October from 6 p.m. till midnight at Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong St, Dist 5, Ho Chi Minh City, tel: (08) 3833-6688. The event has a variety of traditional German dishes, free flow of German beer of Schneider Weisse and Krombacher, games, a lucky draw and a performance of the band Gaukis Bavaria. Tickets from VND1,000,000 to VND1,300,000.

VALUE FOR MONEY HOTELS

Novotel Ha Long Bay

160 Halong St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-108 Novotel Ha Long Bay is offering a meeting package until 31 December for those who book a meeting room for at least 20 people. A halfday meeting package is VND550,000++ per person, including a coffee break, set lunch and a soft drink or iced tea. A full day package is VND650,000++ per person, including two coffee breaks, set lunch and a soft drink or iced tea.

Michelia Hotel

4 Pasteur St, Xuong Huan Ward, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-820

Michelia Hotel has a ‘Golf Package’ till 20 December at VND7,119,000++ ($339++) per room for two nights in a Superior Premier Room, breakfast and a day at a 18-hole golf at Vinpearl Golf Course.

Cat Tien Farm Stay

Ap 4, Nam Cat Tien, Tan Phu District, Dong Nai Province Tel: (061) 3664888 www.cattienjunglelodge.com

Grand Mercure Danang Hotel

Cat Tien Farm Stay is offering a one night package, including twin-share accommodation, lunch, breakfast, barbecue dinner, a jungle trek and a trip to Ta Lai Longhouse and free use of bicycles. VND2,599,000 per person for group from 5-9 persons, VND 2,269,000 per person for group from 10 – 19 and VND 2,099,000 per person for group from 20. The prices include service charge and VAT. The package is valid till 31 October.

Grand Mercure Danang has a wedding package, ‘Together Forever’ at VND450,000 per person, including one night’s stay in Deluxe Privilege Room, a piano performance welcoming guests, a flower gate décor, a fivetier wedding cake, a sparkling fountain and a six-course set menu. This promotion is valid until 31 January and applicable for booking of at least 150 guests.

RESORTS AND SPAS

Bai Tram Hideaway Resort

Hoa Loi, Xuan Canh, Song Cau, Phu Yen Tel: (057) 3722-563

Lot A1, Green Island, Hai Chau, Danang Tel: (0511) 3797-777 www.grandmercure.com

Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist, Danang Tel: (0511) 3981-234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com

Novotel Nha Trang

50 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 6256-933

Novotel Nha Trang is offering a 30 per cent discount on rooms for those who book 21 days in advance on its website at www.novotelnhatrang.com. The promotion runs till 31 October.

Royal Hotel Saigon

133 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5914 www.kimdohotel.com Royal Hotel Saigon is offering a wedding package at VND4,000,000 a table with a sixcourse menu and free flow of drinks. The package is valid till 31 December.

Bai Tram Hideaway Resort has a two-night package till 4 November. Beachfront Deluxe Villa is VND11,550,000++ ($550++) for two and Rice field Villa is VND9,450,000 ($450++) for two. The package includes breakfast, lunch and dinner and a 20 per cent discount on the Beauty Wellness Treatment.

Vietstar Resort & Spa

Nui Thom, An Phu, Tuy Hoa, Phu Yen Province Tel: (057) 3789-999 www.vietstarresort.com Vietstar Resort & Spa is offering a ‘Honeymoon Package’ at VND3,569,000++ per room per night in a Luxury Traveller Suite with breakfast, roundtrip airport transfers, electronic car to Bai Xep Beach, a candlelight dinner with one bottle of sparkling wine, spa treatment and lunch. The package is applied to bookings of at least two nights and runs to 31 October.

38 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa is running a three-night package starting at VND21,051,752 per room for two including breakfast, a 20 per cent discount on spa treatments and an international buffet dinner on Christmas or on New Year’s Eve. The price includes service charge and VAT.

Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort Danang Vietnam, Managed by Centara

255 Huyen Tran Cong Chua St, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3961-777 Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort Danang Vietnam, Managed by Centara, is running a promotion ‘Stay more, pay less’ till 20 December. Those who stay four nights pay three nights, those who stay three pay two and those who stay two get a 20 per cent discount. The promotion includes buffet breakfast, shuttle bus to Danang and Hoi An, a 50 per cent dis-

count on spa, a 50 per cent discount on airport transfer and a 15 per cent discount on food and beverage.

Palm Garden Beach Resort & Spa

Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-927 www.palmgardenresort.com.vn Palm Garden Resort is offering an ‘Autumn Festive Getaway Paradise’ package at VND2,500,000++ per person per twin-share room, till 20 December. The package includes two nights’ stay in a Superior Garden View Room, breakfast, a choice of round trip airport transfers or a lunch or a dinner, a voucher of VND300,000 for body massage, a 20 per cent discount on laundry service, a 15 per cent discount on sport services, a 15 per cent discount on food and beverage and a 15 per cent discount on spa services.

Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa

Zone 1, Phu Loc Town, Phu Loc Dist., Hue Tel: (054) 3681-688 www.vedanalagoon.com Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa has a ‘Pilgrimage & Vedana – Combination Package’ at VND8,190,000 for stays from 1 to 31 October, 2014 including two nights in a Honeymoon Bungalow at Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa and two nights in an Aqua Bungalow or a Pool Honeymoon Villa at Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa, breakfast, tai chi and yoga class, shuttle bus transfer from Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa to Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa.

Sunrise Hoi An Beach Resort

Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Town, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3937-777 www.sunrisehoian.vn Sunrise Hoi An Beach Resort has a twonight honeymoon package in a Deluxe Room with roundtrip airport transfers, a candlelight dinner on the beach with a bottle of red wine or sparkling wine and a 60 minute body massage. The prices start from VND10,479,000. The package is valid till 31 December.

food and a 20 per cent discount on a 90-minute oil massage. The special is applied to those who book at least two nights and is valid till 31 December.

Pandanus Resort

Quarter 5, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3849-849

VALUE FOR MONEY

tails at the poolside and body massage. The prices start from VND6,280,000 ($299).

Binh An Village Resort

Tuyen Lam Lake, Ward 4, Dalat Tel: (063) 3800-999 www.binhanvillage.com Binh An Village Resort is offering a ‘Honeymoon Package’ for those who book at least two nights. It costs VND5,169,000++ per room per night in a Deluxe Suite with breakfast, roundtrip airport transfers, candlelight dinner and a bottle of sparkling wine, spa treatment and a half-day excursion to Valley of Love, Mong Mo Hill and picking strawberries. The package is valid till 31 October.

Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa

Pandanus Resort has a ‘Summer Getaway Package 2014’ till 31 October. VND4,800,000++ per room for two nights for two with dinner, lunch, round-trip transfers from Ho Chi Minh City by bus, a 40-minute massage, tai chi and yoga class and walking Mui Ne tour. Surcharge is VND300,000++ per person for Saturday, including a barbecue buffet dinner at the poolside and live music.

The Pegasus Resort

Ke Ga Bay, Ham Thuan Nam Dist., Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3683- 072 www.thepegasusresort.com The Pegasus Resort is offering a honeymoon package till 20 December at VND3,350,000++ ($160++) for two nights in a Deluxe Bungalow Sea view with breakfast, a bottle of wine, fruits, one candlelit dinner and cocktail at pool bar.

Villa Aria Muine

60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-660 www.villaariamuine.com

Tuyen Lam Lake, Dalat Tel: (063) 3831-515 www.dalatedensee.com

Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa has a special price at VND5,490,000 per room for two for two nights in a Mimosa Superior Room with breakfast, dinner, two vouchers for spa treatment, roundtrip airport transfers and shuttle bus to Dalat city. The promotion is valid till 30 November. The price includes service charge and VAT.

Crystal Spa

3rd Floor, 202 Hoang Van Thu St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3847-9964

Anantara Mui Ne Resort & Spa

12 A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-888 www.mui-ne.anantara.com Anantara Mui Ne Resort & Spa has a ‘Anantara Mui Ne Short Breaks Special’ with prices starting from VND2,899,508++ per night per room with breakfast, a 20 per cent discount on

Villa Aria Muine offers ‘Winter Promotions’ from 1 November to 21 December, 2014 and from 1 March to 27 April, 2015. The package includes two nights’ stay in a Garden Superior Room with breakfast, afternoon tea time, dinner, two cock-

Bring a boarding pass or air ticket to Crystal Spa, near Tan Son Nhat Airport, in Ho Chi Minh City, to get complimentary spa services till 31 December. Those who have a ‘Business Class’ ticket will get a 30- minute foot massage or neck and shoulder massage. Making the reservation in advance is required

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VALUE FOR MONEY FOOD PROMOTIONS

Melia Hanoi Hotel

44B Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-3343

El Oriental Restaurant at the Melia Hanoi Hotel is serving a steamboat menu, 5.30 p.m. to 10 p.m. every Friday and Saturday. Every steamboat is for two persons at the price of classic, mixed and premium seafood of VND480,000++, VND550,000++ and VND750,000++, respectively.

ties. Those who wear Halloween costumes will get a welcome drink.

Hotel de l’Opera

29 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 6282-5555 www.hoteldelopera.com Café Lautrec, at the Hotel de l’Opera, has the Inspired Business Lunch at VND360,000++ for buffet without a la carte main course or VND460,000++ for buffet with a la carte main course. Also, Satine Restaurant at the hotel serves Hanoian dishes for lunch and dinner at VND250,000++ for a two course menu and VND350,000++ for a three-course menu.

Press Club

59A Ly Thai To St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04 ) 3934-0888

fet from 5.30 p.m., every Saturday in November. The buffet also includes salads, slow roasted beef and several kinds of mouth-watering desserts. VND650,000 including free flow of beer, wine and soft drinks.

BW Premier Indochine Palace

105A Hung Vuong St, Hue, Tel: (054) 3936-666 For the occasion of Oktoberfest, BW Premier Indochine Palace has many discounts off on beer till 31 October. Le Petit café offers a 15 to 25 per cent discount and Au Rendezvous offers a 10 to 20 per cent discount.

Pullman Saigon Centre

148 Tran Hung Dao St, Dist. 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3838-8686 www.pullmanhotels.com/7489

Movenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3822-2800

Mangosteen Restaurant at the Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi has the ‘Halloween menu: no tricks, just treats’ on 31 October at VND530,000++ for adults and a half price for children from 6 to 12. The restaurant prepares a variety of enticing and frightfully fun activi-

Press Club serves Thai cuisine, including red beef curry, green chicken curry, crispy fish with yellow curry sauce served with rice and steamed vegetables, seafood salad in a chilli basil dressing and Tom Yam Goong. The prices start from VND98,000 to VND268,000 a dish.

Pullman Danang Beach Resort

Vo Nguyen Giap St, Khue My Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang, Tel: (0511) 3958-888 Epice Restaurant at the Pullman Danang Beach Resort serves international seafood buf-

40 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

Food ConneXion Restaurant, at the Pullman Saigon Centre, serves buffet lunch and buffet dinner. Besides over 80 dishes the restaurant has a ‘Japanese a-la-minute’ counter and a corner to make a roll with ‘Peking duck’ crispy skin, vegetable and traditional Chinese pancakes. Diners can order any grilled item on the ‘Specialist Grilled Menu’. Lunch: 11.30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner: 6.30 p.m. to 10 p.m. VND480,000++including of tea, coffee & mineral water VND888,000++including of wine, soft drink & beer

RECIPE

his recipe for banana blossom salad (gỏi hoa chuối) comes from Executive Chef Ta Viet Anh, and is one of Hoi An’s specialties. ‘It is also tourists’ favourite choice when staying at the Boutique Hoi An Resort,’ the chef said. Ingredients (Serves one): Banana blossom: 200g; Pork shoulder: 60g; Onion: 50g; Mint: 50g; Carrot: 50g; Shrimp: 80g; Peanuts: 50g; Vietnamese dressing: 50ml; Fish sauce: 25ml; Lemon: 50g; Cooking oil: 30ml; Shallot: 50g; Coriander: 50g; Two big red chilies.

Directions: 1. Fill a large bowl with cold water. Add lime juice. Set aside. 2. Remove and discard any dried and tough outer layer or bracts from the banana blossom. Use a very sharp knife to discard stem at the bottom. Cut the banana blossom into very thin slices or a fine julienne. You can use either mandoline or food processor. Put the sliced blossom into acidulated water for 15 - 30 minutes. 3. Wash and rinse the blossom under cold running water. Drain. 4. Cut the carrot and julienne onion.

Photo: Boutique Hoi An Resort

Banana Blossom salad

5. Boil pork shoulder about 8 minutes and thinly slice it. 6. Peel skin of shrimp and boil in hot water for 1 to 2 minutes. Then drain and keep cold. 7. Use a mortar and pestle to crush peanut, sugar and salt. Transfer to a mixing bowl. Then add banana blossom, pork, dried shrimp, peanuts, Vietnamese dressing and mint. Toss all the ingredients well

to combine. Then add lime juice. Toss well and adjust the taste if needed salt, sugar or lime juice. Transfer to serving platterdecorated with coriander and chili slices. Boutique Hoi An Resort Group 6, Block Tan Thinh, Cam An Ward, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3939-111

DIRECTIONS SAPA, HALONG, HAI PHONG EMERGENCIES Police: 113 Fire: 114 Ambulance: 115

SAPA

(TELEPHONE CODE: 020) Sapa is a former French hill station in northwestern Vietnam, in Lao Cai Province, near the Chinese border. A number of minority cultures including the H’mong, Dao and Tay live in villages in the countryside around Sapa. HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Cat Cat View Hotel 46 Fan Xi Pang St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-946 www.catcathotel.com VND735,000 to VND3,780,000 ($35 to $180) Cha Pa Garden Boutique Hotel & Spa 23B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3872-907 Email: hotelchapagarden@gmail.com

www.chapagarden.com From VND1,470,000 ($70) Chau Long Sapa Hotel

Topas Ecolodge Thanh Kim Ward, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (04) 3715-1005 reservation@topasecolodge.com www.topasecolodge.com From VND2,300,000 ($110) Victoria Sapa Resort and Spa Xuan Vien St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-522 Email: resa.sapa@victoriahotels.asia

www.victoriahotels.asia From VND3,657,000 ($172) RESTAURANTS Buffalo Bell Restaurant 25 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-455 Delta Restaurant 33 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-799 Fansipan Restaurant 23 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-556

HALONG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 033) With around 1,600 islands and islets in the Gulf of Tonkin, Halong Bay, about 170 km east of Hanoi, is well known for its limestone seascape. Overnight boat trips out of Halong City are a popular way to see it. HOSPITALS

Bai Chay Hospital Gieng Day Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-557 www.benhvienbaichay.vn

24 Dong Loi St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-245 Email: resa@chaulonghotel.com.vn www.chaulonghotel.com.vn From VND700,000 ($33) Holiday Sapa Hotel 16 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-874 Email: info@holidaysapa.com www.holidaysapa.com VND588,000 to VND2,100,000 ($28 to $100) Mường Thanh Sapa Hotel No 044, Ngu Chi Son, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3887-766 Email: sales@sapa.muongthanh.vn www.sapa.muongthanh.vn Royal Hotel 54B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3771-131 Email: hoanggiasapa@gmail.com www.royalsapahotel.com From VND340,000 ($17)

Traditional Medicine Hospital Cot 8, Hong Ha Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3838-113 Vietnam-Sweden Hospital Thanh Son Ward, Uong Bi Commune, Halong Tel: (033) 3854-037 www.bvubqn.tk TRAVEL

Halong Tourism 1 Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-272 Quang Ninh Tourism Company Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-350 Syrena Cruises Hung Thang new urban area, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3847-043 Hanoi Sales Office: Syrena Tower, 3th Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-7214 Email: se@syrenacruises.com www.syrenacruises.com HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Asean Halong Hotel Hau Can St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3640-034 Email: sm@aseanhalonghotel.com www.aseanhalonghotel.com Halong Hidden Charm Hotel Block 22D, Tuan Chau Villas, Halong Tel: (033) 3842-360 Email: infor.halonghiddencharmhotel@gmail.com

www.hiddencharmhotel.com.vn From VND600,000 ($29) Halong Palace Hotel 1, Block 20 Dong Hung Thang, Hoang Quoc Viet St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3619-819 Email: info@halongpalacehotel.com www.halongpalacehotel.com From VND3,800,000 ($181) Halong Plaza Hotel 8 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-810 Email: info@halongplaza.com www.halongplaza.com VND1,500,000 to VND3,800,000 ($71 to $179) Heritage Halong Hotel 88 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-888 Email: saleheritagehl@gmail.com www.heritagehalonghotel.com.vn VND1,200,000 ($57) Mường Thanh Halong Hotel No.7, Block 20, East of Hung Thang, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3812-468/ (033) 3819-777 Email: info@halong.muongthanhhotel.vn www.muongthanhhotel.vn From VND1,400,000 ($67) Novotel Ha Long Bay 160 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-108 Email: info@novotelhalong.com.vn www.novotelhalongbay.com From VND2,772,000 ($132) Saigon Halong Hotel Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-845 info@saigonhalonghotel.com www.saigonhalonghotel.com From VND950,000 ($45) StarCity Halong Bay Hotel

Halong St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-058 Email: sm1.north@och.vn www.starcitysuoimo.com In the centre of Halong, StarCity Halong Bay Hotel offers 152 well-

equipped rooms, with many breathtaking views of Halong Bay RESTAURANTS

Co Ngu Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3511-363 Jumbo Vietnam Floating Restaurant 119 Le Thanh Tong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3624-888 Sea Food Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-822

Thu Huong Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-142

BARS & CAFÉS

Emeraude Café Royal Park, Ha Long St, Halong Tel: (033) 3849-266 www.emeraude-cruises.com Royal International Gaming Club and Villa Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-777

HAI PHONG CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 031) HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Catba Princes Hotel

303 Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3888-899 Email: sale@catbaprinceshotel.com www.catbaprinceshotel.com From VND527,500 ($25) Catba Sunrise Resort Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3887-360 Email: info@catbasunriseresort.com www.catbasunriseresort.com From VND3,520,000 ($168) Harbour View Hotel 12 Tran Phu St, Ngo Quyen Dist., Hai Phong Tel: (031) 3827-827 Email: info@harbourviewvietnam.com www.harbourviewvietnam.com From VND2,772,000 ($132) ENTERTAINMENT

Do Son Casino Zone 3, Do Son town, Hai Phong Tel: (031) 3864-888

VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

• 43

CENTRE O

1 Hanoi Emotion Hotel 2 Capital Garden Hotel 3 Daewoo Hotel

4 De Syloia Hotel 5 Fortuna Hotel Hanoi 6 Green Mango 7 Sunway Hotel Hanoi 8 Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel 9 Joseph’ Joseph’ss Hotel 10 1 0 Little Hanoi 11 1 1 MAison d’Hanoi Hanova Hotel

12 1 2 Melia Hanoi Hotel 13 1 3 Movenpick Hotel Hanoi 14 1 4 Nikko Hanoi Hotel 15 1 5 Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi

STREET GUIDE Ba Trieu...................E3, E4 Bac Son.........................D1 Bach Dang.....................F2 Bach Mai........................E4 Bat Dan..........................E2 Bich Cau........................C2 Buoi................................A1 Cat Linh..........................C2 Cha Ca....................E1, E2 Cua Bac.........................D1 Cua Dong.......................D2

Da Tuong.......................E3 Dang Tat.........................D1 Dao Duy Anh.................D4 Dao Duy Tu.............E1, E2 Dien Bien Phu................D2 Doc Ngu.........................A1 Doi Can.............A1, B2, C2 Duong Thanh.................E2 Gam Cau........................E1 Giai Phong.....................D4 Giang Vo.....A3 ,B3 ,B2,C2

Hai Ba Trung.....E2, E3, F3 Ham Long......................E3 Han Thuyen....................F3 Hang Bac.......................E2 Hang Bo.........................E2 Hang Bong.....................E2 Hang Buom....................E2 Hang Can.......................E2 Hang Chuoi....................F3 Hang Cot........................E1 Hang Da.........................E2 Hang Dao.......................E2

Hang Dau.......................E1 Hang Ga.........................E2 Hang Gai........................E2 Hang Khay.....................E2 Hang Khoai....................E1 Hang Ma.........................E1 Hang Quat......................E2 Hang Trong....................E2 Hang Chieu....................E1 Hang Luoc......................E1 Hao Nam........................C2 Hoa Ma...........................F3

Hoang Dieu.............D1, D2 Hoang Hoa Tham............... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 Hoang Van Thu..............D1 Hoe Nhai........................E1 Hung Vuong............D1, D2 Huynh Thuc Khang........A3 Kham Thien.............C3, D3 Kim Ma..............A2, B2, C2 La Thanh.................B3, C3 Lang Ha..........................B3 Nguyen Chi Thanh.........A3

Le Dai Hanh...................E4 Le Duan............D2, D3, D4 Le Hong Phong.............D2 Le Lai..............................F2 Le Thai To.......................E2 Le Thanh Tong...............F3 Le Van Huu....................E3 Lieu Giai........................A2 Lo Duc......................F3, F4 Lo Su..............................F2 Luong Ngoc Quyen.......E2 Luong Van Can..............E2

OF HA NOI D

6 10 1 0

11 1 1 9 1 15 1 5 13

12 1 2 8 4

14 1 4

Ly Nam De..............E1, E2 Ly Quoc Su....................E2 Ly Thai To.......................F2 Ly Thuong Kiet........E3, F3 Mai Hac De..............E3, E4 Ngo Quyen.....................F3 Ngo Si Lien....................D2 Ngo Thi Nham................E3 Ngoc Ha.........................C1 Ngoc Khanh...................B2 Nguyen Canh Chan......D1 Nguyen Cong Hoa.........B2

Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ .................................E3, E4 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Huu Huan........ F2 Nguyen Khuyen.............D2 Nguyen Luong Bang.....C3 Nguyen Thai Hoc....C2, D2 Nguyen Thuong Hien......... ........................................D3 Nguyen Van To..............E2 Nha Chung.....................E2 Nha Tho.........................E2

Nui Truc..........................B2 Pham Dinh Ho................F3 Pham Ngu Lao...............F3 Phan Boi Chau.......D2, D3 Phan Chu Trinh..............F3 Phan Dinh Phung..........D1 Phan Huy Chu................F3 Pho Duc Chinh...............F3 Pho Hue...................E3, E4 Phu Doan.......................E2 Phung Hung............E1, E2 Quan Su..................E2, E3

Quan Thanh...................D1 Quang Trung...........E2, E3 Quoc Tu Giam...............D2 Son Tay..........................C2 Thai Phien......................E4 Thanh Cong...................B3 Thanh Nien....................D1 Tho Nhuom.............E2, E3 Thuy Khue.......................... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 To Hien Thanh...............E4 Tong Dan........................F2

Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Hung Dao................... ...........................D3, E3, F3 Tran Huy Lieu................B2 Tran Khanh Du...............F3 Tran Khat Chan..............F4 Tran Nguyen Han..........F2 Tran Nhan Tong......D3, E3 Tran Nhat Duat..............E1 Tran Phu........................D2 Tran Quang Khai............F2 Tran Qui Cap.................D2

Tran Quoc Toan......D3, E3 Tran Thanh Tong............F3 Tran Xuan Soan................. .................................E3, E4 Trang Thi........................E2 Trang Tien................E2, F3 Trieu Viet Vuong......E3, E4 Trinh Hoai Duc...............C2 Tue Tinh.........................E3 Yen Phu..........................E1 Yersin..............................F4 Yet Kieu..........................D3

DIRECTIONS HANOI HANOI

(TELEPHONE CODE: 04) EMBASSIES

Finland 31 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-6788

Algeria 13 Phan Chu Trinh St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3865

France 57 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3944-5782

Argentina 41A Ly Thai To St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5263

Germany 29 Tran Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3836

Australia 8 Dao Tan St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-7755 Austria 53 Quang Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-3050 Bangladesh Villa D6B 5 – Khu Vuon Dao Ngo 675, Lac Long Quan St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3771-6625 Belarus 52 Ho Tay St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3829-0494 Belgium Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-6179 Brazil T72-14 Thuy Khue St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-2544 Brunei Villa 8-9 No 44/8-44, 9 Van Bao St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3726-0001 Bulgaria 5 Nui Truc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-2908 Cambodia 71A Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-7636 Canada 31 Hung Vuong St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-5500 China 46 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3845-3736 Cuba 65 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4775 Czech Republic 13 Chu Van An St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi; Tel: (04) 3845-4131 Denmark 19 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-1888 Egypt 63 To Ngoc Van St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3829-4999

Hungary 12th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3771-5714 India 58-60 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-4990 Indonesia 50 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3353 Iran 54 Tran Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-2068 Iraq 66 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4141 Ireland 8th floor of Vincom Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu St, Ha Dong Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3974-3291 Israel 68 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-3141 Italy 9 Le Phung Hieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-6256 Japan 27 Lieu Giai St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3846-3000 Laos 22 Tran Binh Trong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4576 Libya 298B Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3379 Malaysia 43-45 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3734-3836 Mexico Coco Villa T-11, 14 Thuy Khue St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3847-0948 Mongolia 5 Van Phuc, Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3009 Myanmar 298A Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3369

46 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

Netherlands 6th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5650 New Zealand 63 Ly Thai To St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-1481 North Korea 25 Cao Ba Quat St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3008 Norway 8th Floor, Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3974-8900 Nigeria 44/1 Van Bao St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3726-3610 Palestine 6 Dang Van Ngu St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3852-4013 Philippines 27B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-7948 Poland 3 Chua Mot Cot St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-2027 Romania 5 Le Hong Phong St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-2014 Russia 191 La Thanh St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: 3833-6991 South Africa 31 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3936-2000 South Korea 4th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5111 Spain 15th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3771-5207 Sweden 2 Nui Truc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3726-0400 Thailand 63-65 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-5092 Turkey 14th Floor, HCO Building, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Tel: (04) 3822-2460 United Kingdom 31 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3936-0500 United States 7 Lang Ha St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3772-1500

MEDICAL CENTRES Acupuncture Institute 49 Thai Thinh St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3563-1069 Hanoi French Hospital 1 Phuong Mai St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3577-1100 International SOS Clinic 1 Dang Thai May St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-0666 Vinmec international hospital 458 Minh Khai St, Hai Ba Trung Dist, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3974-3556 AIRLINES Air France 1 Ba Trieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3484 Qatar Airways Hilton Hanoi Opera Building, M floor, 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-6767 www.qatarairways.com Singapore Airlines 17 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3826-8888 Vietnam Airlines 25 Trang Thi St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-0320 TRAVEL Amega Travel No 2606 Thang Long International Village, Tran Dang Ninh St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3783-3570 www.amegatravelvietnam.com Buffalo Tours 94 Ma May St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-0702 www.buffalotours.com Emeraude Classic Cruises 46 Le Thai To St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3935-1888 www.emeraude-cruises.com Email: info@buffalotours.com Exotissmo 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-2150 www.exotissimo.com Email: go.vietnam@exotissimo.com Oriental Sails 16A Ly Nam De St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3926-4009 Email: sales@orientalsails.com www.orientalsails.com Topas Travel 52 To Ngoc Van St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715-1005 Email: sales@topastravel.vn www.topastravel.vn

DIRECTIONS HANOI HOTELS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Baoson International Hotel 50 Nguyen Chi Thanh St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3835-3536 Email: sales@baosonhotels.com www.baosonhotels.com From VND1,570,000 ($75) De Syloia Hotel 17A Tran Hung Dao St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-5346 Email: desyloia@hn.vnn.vn www.desyloia.com From VND1,806,000 ($86) Fortuna Hotel Hanoi 6B Lang Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-3333 Email: fortunahanoi@fortuna.vn www.fortuna.vn From VND1,920,000 ($91) Hanoi Daewoo Hotel 360 Kim Ma St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5000 Email: sales@daewoohotel.com www.daewoohotel.com Hanoi Emotion Hotel 26 – 28 Hang Bot St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3848-9848 Email: info@hanoi-emotion.com www.hanoi-emotion.com The hotel also provides Vietnamese, Japanese and International cuisine Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-0500 Email: hanoi.opera@hilton.com www.hanoi.hilton.com Hotel de l’Opera 29 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 6282-5555 Email: H7832-RE@accor.com www.hoteldelopera.com Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-3343 Email: melia.hanoi@melia.com www.melia.com Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3822-2800 Email: hotel.hanoi@moevenpick.com www.moevenpickhotels.com/hanoi From VND3,139,500 ($149.50) Hotel Nikko Hanoi 84 Tran Nhan Tong St, Hanoi Tel.: (04) 3822-3535 reservation@hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn From VND4,620,000 ($220) Pullman Hanoi 40 Cat Linh St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-0808

Email: getcloser@pullman-hanoi.com www.pullmanhotels.com From VND2,448,600 ($115.50) Prestige Hotel Hanoi 17 Pham Dinh Ho St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 6299-9888 Email: sales@prestigehotels.com.vn www.prestigehotels.com.vn A new four-star international standard hotel, on a tree-lined street in the heart of Hanoi, 15 minutes walk from the Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake. Modern luxuries, impeccable service and excellent value for the business or pleasure traveller. 80 rooms including elegant suites and an executive apartment, conference facilities, business centre, a restaurant, a fitness centre, a rooftop swimming pool and a cocktail bar. Silk Path Hotel Hanoi 195-199 Hang Bong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3266-5555 Email: info@silkpathhotel.com www.silkpathhotel.com From VND2,289,000 ($109) Sheraton Hanoi Hotel 11 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-9000 reservations.hanoi@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/hanoi From VND4,956,000 ($236) As a ‘resort within the city’, Sheraton Hanoi Hotel is on the West Lake. Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi 15 Ngo Quyen St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-6919 Email: h1555@sofitel.com www.sofitel.com From VND6,090,000 ($290) Sunway Hotel Hanoi 19 Pham Dinh Ho St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3971-3888 Email: reservation@sunwayhotel.com.vn www.hanoi.sunwayhotels.com APARTMENTS Fraser Suites Hanoi 51 Xuan Dieu St, Quang An Ward, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-8877 sales.hanoi@frasershospitality.com hanoi.frasershospitality.com Somerset Serviced Residence Vietnam 49 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-2342 www.somerset.com Luxurious apartments and properties for hiring RESTAURANTS Com Chay Nang Tam Restaurant 79A Tran Hung Dao St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4140

Green Tangerine 48 Hang Be St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com Serving French food with a Vietnamese cuisine Hoa Vien Brauhaus 1A Tang Bat Ho St, Hai Ba Trung Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3972-5088 www.hoavien.vn The restaurant has been famous for its production of Czech beer Le Tonkin Restaurant 14 Ngo Van So St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-3457 www.letonkinrestaurant.vn Serves Vietnamese food

MUSEUMS Ho Chi Minh Museum 19 Ngoc Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3846-3752 www.baotanghochiminh.vn Open: 8 a.m. to noon (Monday and Friday), 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (other days) Entry fee: VND25,000 Imperial Citadel of Thang Long 12 Nguyen Tri Phuong St/ 9 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 37345427 hoangthanhthanglong@gmail.com www.hoangthanhthanhlong.vn Open: 8.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. (Closed on Mondays) Entry fee: VND30,000

Infostones Bookshop 41 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-2993 Email: sach41trangtien@gmail.com Thousands of magazines and books by hundreds of publishing houses worldwide

Vietnam National Museum of History 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi 216 Tran Quang Khai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-1384 www.baotanglichsu.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.Closed every first Monday of months Entry fee VND 20,000 ($0.95) for adults and VND10,000 ($0.48) for children

Craft Link 43 and 51 Van Mieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-7710 Email: craftlink@hn.vnn.vn

Vietnam Fine Arts Museum 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-2131 www.vnfineartsmuseum.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND20,000 ($0.95)

BOOK STORE

SHOPS

Ha Dong Silk 102 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3928-5056 Tan My Embroidery 66 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Email: tanmyhuong@fpt.vn Tel: (04) 3825-1579 Viet Culture 1 Trang Thi St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-7417 Vietnam Quilts 13 Hang Bac St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3926-4831 www.vietnam-quilts.org Traditional embroidery and other handicraft cloth products

FURNITURE/ INTERIOR Dome Au Co 9 Au Co St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-5866 Email: sales@dome.com.vn Dome Yen The 10 Yen The St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-6036

STORE

Annam Gourmet 51 Xuan Dieu St, Quang An Ward, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-4487 www.annam-gourmet.com Annam Gourmet’s motivation is to “Enjoy Life. Eat and Drink well.”

Vietnam Military History Museum 28A Dien Bien Phu St, Hanoi www.btlsqsvn.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) Vietnam Museum of Ethnology Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3756-2193, www.vme.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND25,000 ($1.19) Women’s Museum 36 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-9936 www.womenmuseum.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) SPA

Elite Fitness & Spa 51 Xuan Dieu St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-6281 Email: info@elitefitness.com.vn www.elitefitness.com.vn Spa de Palace Fortuna Hotel Hanoi, 6B Lang Ha St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-3333

VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

• 47

DIRECTIONS NINH BINH, NGHE AN, QUANG BINH, HUE, DANANG, HOI AN NINH BINH

(TELEPHONE CODE: 030) Emeralda Resort Ninh Binh

UNESCO World Heritage in 1993. Hue is also known for its particular cuisine.

Huong Giang Hotel Resort & Spa

HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Van Long Reserve, Gia Van Commune, Gia Vien Dist., Ninh Binh Province Tel: (030) 3658-333 Email: info@emeraldaresort.com www.emeraldaresort.com

Banyan Tree Lang Co Hotel Cu Du village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc Dist., Thua Thien Hue Province. Tel: (054) 3695-888 reservations-langco@banyantree.com www.banyantree.com BW Premier Indochine Palace

Ninh Binh Legend Hotel Tien Dong Zone, Ninh Khanh Ward, Ninh Binh City Tel: (030) 3899-880

51 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3822-122 info@huonggianghotel.com.vn www.huonggianghotel.com.vn La Résidence Hue Hotel & Spa 5 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3837-475 Email: resa@la-residence-hue.com www.la-residence-hue.com

Tel: (0511) 3797-777 Email: H7821@accor.com www.accorhotels.com/7821 Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3981-234 Email: danang.regency@hyatt.com www.danang.regency.hyatt.com From VND5,225,000 ($243) Pullman Danang Beach Resort Vo Nguyen Giap St, Khue My Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3958-888 Email: info@pullman-danang.com www.pullman-danang.com Novotel Danang Premier Han River

Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa

Email: info@ninhbinhlegendhotel.com

www.ninhbinhlegendhotel.com From VND1,575,000 ($75)

NGHE AN

(TELEPHONE CODE: 038) Mường Thanh Song Lam Hotel 13 Quang Trung St, Quang Trung Ward, Vinh, Nghe An Province Tel: (038) 3737-666 Email: sales@songlam.muongthanh.vn

www.songlam.muongthanh.vn

QUANG BINH

(TELEPHONE CODE: 052)

105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3936-666 Email: rsvn@bwp-indochinepalace.com www.bwp-indochinepalace.com From VND3,024,000 ($144) The hotel is surrounded by lush green gardens that make it an outstanding landmark in Hue and give the city the feel of a resort. This luxurious, international standard hotel is created to appeal to Vietnamese and international visitors to Hue. Century Riverside Hotel Hue

HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Bao Ninh Beach Resort Ha Duong, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (052) 3854-866 Email: sales@baoninhbeachresort.com.vn www.baoninhbeachresort.com.vn From VND1,120,000 ($53) Sun Spa Resort My Canh, Bao Ninh Commune, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (052) 3842-999 Email: info@sunsparesortvietnam.com www.sunsparesortvietnam.com From VND1,870,000 ($89)

HUE

(TELEPHONE CODE: 054) Hue is a city on the Perfume River in lowland central Vietnam and was the capital of the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 to 1945. Many imperial structures remain. They were named part of

Vedanā Lagoon Resort & Spa Zone 1, Phu Loc Town, Phu Loc Dist., Hue Tel: (054) 3681-688 Email: info@vedanalagoon.com www.vedanalagoon.com RESTAURANT

49 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3823-390 Email: info@centuryriversidehue.com www.centuryriversidehue.com Hue Riverside Boutique Resort & Spa

TRAVEL

Oxalis Adventure Tours Phong Nha Commune, Son Trach Village, Bo Trach Dist., Quang Binh Province Tel: (052)3677-678 www.oxalis.com.vn

130 Minh Mang Road, Hue Tel: (054) 3885-461 Email: info@pilgrimagevillage.com www.pilgrimagevillage.com

36 Bach Dang St, Hai Chau Dist., Danang. Tel: (0511) 3929-999 Email: H8287@accor.com www.novotel-danang-premier.com Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort Danang Vietnam, Managed by Centara

588 Bui Thi Xuan St, Thuy Bieu Dist., Hue Tel: (054) 3978-484 Email: sales@hueriversideresort.com www.hueriversideresort.com Imperial Hotel 8 Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3882-222 Email: info@imperial-hotel.com.vn www.imperial-hotel.com.vn VND2,300,000 to VND29,400,000 ($110 to $1,400)

48 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant 110A Le Ngo Cat St, Thuy Xuan Ward, Hue Tel: (054) 3898-220 www.thientamrestaurant.com Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant features a Hue garden house with a simple design and a serene atmosphere. The restaurant serves a variety of Hue vegetarian food, from royal to local dishes, at a reasonable price. The menu has many choices, with prices starting from VND45,000 per dish. The restaurant also serves as an art playground for Hue artists. Guests have chance to get their portraits drawn by the owners at a reasonable price. Vegetarian cooking classes are also available. The restaurant is about 1-2 km from Tu Duc tomb

DANANG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0511) HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Grand Mercure Danang Lot A1, Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau Dist., Danang

255 Huyen Tran Cong Chua St, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3961-777 Email: cdv@chr.co.th www.centarahotelsresorts.com/cdv VND1,785,000 to VND5,670,000 ($85 to $270) Ho Chi Minh sales office: 4th Floor, Ben Thanh TSC Building; 186-188 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3914-7940 Vinpearl Luxury Danang Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0 511) 3968-888 Email: info@vinpearlluxury-danang.com www.vinpearl.com MUSEUM

Danang Museum of Cham Sculpture 2, 2 Thang 9 St, Danang Tel: (0511) 3572-935 www.chammuseum.danang.vn Open 7.15 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)

HOI AN

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0510) A major port town from the 15th to

DIRECTIONS QUY NHON, NHA TRANG 19th centuries, Hoi An has well preserved vestiges of Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese cultures. The buildings are now often used for tailor’s shops. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hoi An is a little over 30 km south of Danang, on the central coast. HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Anantara Hoi An Resort 1 Pham Hong Thai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3914-555 Email: hoian@anantara.com www.hoi-an.anantara.com Golden Sand Resort & Spa Hoi An Thanh Nien Road, Cua Dai Beach Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-555 info@goldensandresort-spa.com.vn www.goldensandresort-spa.com.vn VND3,759,000 to VND7,644,000 Golf Hoi An Hotel

Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3864-800 reservation@hoianriverresort.com.vn www.hoianriverresort.com From VND1,650,000 ($79) Le Belhamy Hoi An Resort & Spa Ha My Beach, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3941-888 Email: reservations@belhamy.com www.belhamy.com From VND2,835,000 ($135) Hoi An Pacific Hotel & Spa

321 Cua Dai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3923-777 Email: info@hoianpacific.com www.hoianpacific.com From VND1,113,000 ($53)

Palm Garden Beach Resort and Spa 187 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Cam Pho Ward, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3861-171 Email: sales@golfhoianhotel.vn www.golfhoianhotel.vn

Hoi An Beach Resort 1 Cua Dai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-011 info@hoianbeachresort.com.vn www.hoianbeachresort.com.vn VND2,184,000 to VND2,772,000 ($104 to $132) Hoi An Historic Hotel

MUSEUM

Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation 10B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3862-367 www.hoianheritage.net Open daily 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

QUY NHON

Hoi An Riverside Resort & Spa 175 Cua Dai St, Hoi An,

Best Western Premier Havana Nha Trang Hotel

(TELEPHONE CODE: 056) HOTELS, RESORTS

Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-927 Email: info@pgr.com.vn www.palmgardenresort.com.vn From VND 4,158,000 ($198) River-Beach Resort & Residences Hoi An

AVANI Quy Nhon Resort & Spa Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3840-132 Email: quynhon@avanihotels.com www.avanihotels.com/quynhon From VND1,995,000 ($95) Royal Hotel and Healthcare Resort Quy Nhon 1 Han Mac Tu St, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 374-7100 Email: reservation@royalquynhon.com www.royalquynhon.com VND1,155,000 to VND1,365,000 ($55 to $65) MUSEUM

Quang Trung Museum Block 1, Phu Phong town, Tay Son Dist., Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3580-320 Open 7 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND10,500 ($0.50). Free for children under six

NHA TRANG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 058) On the central coast, Nha Trang is a city originally known for beautiful beaches but these have lately been found to suffer from pollution due to modern life, development and tourism, like other popular resort areas in Vietnam. It has large numbers of foreign tourists, island-hopping, scuba diving, sightseeing and lounging on the beach. HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

10 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3861-445 Email: reservation@hoianhotel.com.vn www.hoianhotel.com.vn From VND2,127,500 ($101)

304 2/4 St, Vinh Phuoc, Nha Trang Email: sales@champaislandresort.vn www.champaisandresort.vn Hotline: 0123 6009 777 With architecture reflecting nearby Po Nagar temple, Champa Island Nha Trang offers exquisite cuisine and many entertainment services that promise a memorable stay in Nha Trang

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Sunrise Hoi An Beach Resort Au Co Road, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3937-777 Email: sm1.north@och.vn www.sunrisehoian.vn

Ancient House River Resort Hamlet 2, Cam Thanh Village, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3930-777 Email: sales@ancienthouseriver.com www.ancienthouseriver.com From VND2,656,500 ($126.50)

Email: sales@rosetravelservice.com www.rosetravelservice.com.vn

5 Cua Dai St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3927-888 saleshoian@river-beachresort.com www.river-beachresort.com From VND1,350,000 ($65) ($179 to $364)TRAVEL

Rose Travel Service co..ltd 37 - 39 Ly Thai To St, Cam Chau Ward, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3917-567

Champa Island Nha Trang Resort & Spa

38 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3889-999 Email: info@havanahotel.vn www.havanahotel.vn Diamond Bay Resort & Spa Song Lo, Phuoc Ha, Phuoc Dong Dist., Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3711-711 Email: info@diamondbayresort.vn www.diamondbayresort.vn Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3524-705 reservations-nhatrang@evasonresorts.com

www.sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/destination Galina Hotel & Spa 05 Hung Vuong St, Loc Tho Ward, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3839-999 Email: sales@haidanggroup.com www.galinahotel.com.vn InterContinental Nha Trang Hotel

32-34 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3887-777 www.intercontinental.com Michelia Hotel 4 Pasteur St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-820 Email: sales@michelia.vn www.michelia.vn From VND2,200,000 ($105) Mường Thanh Nha Trang Hotel 6 Duong Hien Quyen St, Vinh Hoa Ward, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3552-468 Email: info@nhatrang.muongthanh.vn www.nhatrang.muongthanh.vn From VND1,400,000 ($66)

VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

• 49

DIRECTIONS PHAN RANG, PHAN THIET

PHAN THIET

Novotel Nha Trang Hotel 50 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 6256-900 Email: rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com VND2,415,000 to VND4,830,000 ($115 to $230)

Population group 9 Dong Cat, Ninh Hai Ward, Ninh Hoa Town, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3670-670 Email: info@whitesandresort.com.vn www.whitesandresort.com.vn

(TELEPHONE CODE: 062) Sitting on the coast about 200 km north of Ho Chi Minh City, Phan Thiet is a beach city with many resorts and hotels.

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3524-268 Email: reservationsninhvan@sixsenses.com www.sixsenses.com/resorts/ninh-vanbay/destination From VND17,629,500 ($839.50)

Nha Trang Limousine

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26-28 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province. Tel: (058) 3880-000 reservations.nhatrang@sheraton.com www.sheratonnhatrang.com From VND3,565,000 ($170) Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa 12-14 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-999 Email: info@sunrisenhatrang.com.vn www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn VND2,520,000 to VND4,305,000 ($120 to $205) Vinpearl Luxury Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-598 Email: info@vinpearlluxury-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com Vinpearl Resort Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang City, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-188 Email: info@vinpearlresort-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com White Sand Doclet Resort & Spa

TOUR

HOTELS, RESORTS

Allezboo Beach Resort & Spa 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-777 Email: info@allezbooresort.com www.allezbooresort.com From VND1,400,000 ($66) 93 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3516-612 or 09868 33555 Email: hieu@everbluetravel.com.vn www.nhatranglimousine.com

Anantara Mui Ne Resort & Spa 12A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-888 Email: res.amui@anantara.com www.mui-ne.anantara.com

Khanh Hoa Salanganes Nest Company 248 Thong Nhat St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-472 yensaokh@yensaokhanhhoa.com.vn www.yensaokhanhhoa.com.vn

Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa

SHOPPING

MUSEUM Alexandre Yersin Museum Pasteur Institute, 10 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-406

PHAN RANG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 068)

HOTEL, RESORT

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Saigon Ninh Chu Hotel & Resort Khanh Hai Town, Ninh Hai Dist., Ninh Thuan Province Tel: (068) 3876-011 Email: sales@saigonninhchuhotel.com.vn www.saigonninhchuhotel.com.vn VND1,575,000 to VND4,200,000 ($75 to $200)

38 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3847-007 info@bamboovillageresortvn.com www.bamboovillageresortvn.com From VND2,200,000 ($105) Ocean Dunes Resort 1 Ton Duc Thang St, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3822-393 Email: reservation@phanthietresorts.com www.phanthietresorts.com From VND1,500,000 ($71)

Muine de Century Beach Resort & Spa 16 Huynh Thuc Khang St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-668 reservation@muinedecentury.vn www.muinedecentury.vn From VND1,550,000 ($74) Muine Ocean Resort & Spa 10 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-616 Email: sale.muineocean@gmail.com www.muineoceanresort.com From VND1,050,000 ($50) Muine Bay Resort

Quarter 14, Mui Ne Ward , Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-222 Email: info@muinebayresort.com www.muinebayresort.com VND2,205,000 to VND6,195,000 ($105 to $295) Pandanus Resort

Hoang Ngoc (Oriental Pearl) Beach Resort & Spa Quarter 5, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3849-849 Email: pandanus@pandanusresort.com www.pandanusresort.com From VND1,575,000 ($75) 152 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province . Tel: (062) 3847-858 Email: info@hoangngoc-resort.com www.hoangngoc-resort.com VND1,600,000 to VND6,090,000 ($75 to $287) Full Moon Village Suoi Nuoc Beach, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3836-099 Email: reservation@fullmoon-village.com www.fullmoon-village.com VND2,100,000 to VND6,300,000 ($100 to $300)

50 â&#x20AC;˘ VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

Mom Da Chim - Lazi Beach Resort Ly Thai To St, Tan Tien, Lagi, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3874-458 Email: contact@lazibeachresort.com www.lazibeachresort.com From VND1,900,000 ($90)

Park Diamond Hotel Nguyen Tat Thanh St, Hung Long Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3835-666 Email: reservations@parkdiamondhotel.vn www.parkdiamondhotel.vn From VND990,000 ($47) Saigon - Suoi Nhum Resort Thuan Quy, Ham Thuan Nam Ward, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3683-240 info@saigonsuoinhumresort.com www.saigonsuoinhumresort.com From VND1,700,000 ($81) Sandhills Beach Resort & Spa Km6, Tien Binh hamlet, Tien Thanh

DIRECTIONS DALAT, HO CHI MINH CITY Commune, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3846-789 Email: info@sandhillsresort.com.vn www.sandhillsresort.com.vn From VND2,520,000 ($120)

Mui Ne Unique Resort

HOTELS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Seahorse Resort & Spa

Km 11, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3847-507 Email: info@seahorseresortvn.com www.seahorseresortvn.com From VND1,440,000 ($68) Sea Links Beach Hotel Km 9, Nguyen Thong St, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-088 Email: sales@sealinksbeachhotel.com www.sealinksbeachhotel.com From VND1,995,000 ($94)

20B, Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-617 Email: info@muineuniqueresort.com www.muineuniqueresort.com Reservation contact in Ho Chi Minh City, 57 Pham Viet Chanh St, Nguyen Cu Trinh Ward, Dist.1 Tel: (08) 3925-4196 Email: sales@muineuniqueresort.com Victoria Phan Thiet Beach Resort & Spa Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3813-000 Email: resa.phanthiet@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia From VND3,633,000 ($171)

Sunny Beach Resort & Spa 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (062) 3741-660 Email: info@villaariamuine.com www.villaariamuine.com From VND1,743,000 ($83) White Sands Resort 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-355 Email: info@sunnybeach.com.vn www.sunnybeach.com.vn From VND1,699,000 ($80)

The Cliff Resort & Residences Zone 5, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3719-111 reservation@thecliffresort.com.vn www.thecliffresort.com.vn The Sailing Bay Beach Resort 107 Ho Xuan Huong St, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: (062) 3836-555 Email: resort@thesailingbay.com www.thesailingbay.com From VND2,571,000 ($122)

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa Le Lai St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3555-888 Email: reservation-dalat@anamandara-resort.com www.anamandara-resort.com From VND1,700,000 ($81) Dalat Edensee Resort Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3831-515 Email: reservation@dalatedensee.com www.dalatedensee.com VND2,331,000 to VND4,662,000 ($111 to $222) Saigon-Dalat Hotel

Villa Aria Mui Ne

Sea Lion Beach Resort & Spa 12 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-390 Email: info@sealionresort-muine.com www.sealionresort-muine.com

Saigon Mui Ne Resort 56 - 97 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-044 Email: saigonmuineresort@hcm.vnn.vn www.saigonmuineresort.com.vn From VND1,908,000 ($90)

perpetually cool climate. It is in the southern Central Highlands, about 300 kilometres from Ho Chi Minh City.

02 Hoang Van Thu St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3556-789 Email: hotel@saigondalat.com ; resvn@saigondalat.com www.saigondalathotel.com Located in the heart of Dalat, SaigonDalat Hotel is a four-star-standard hotel, comprised of 160 luxurious and comfortable rooms with air-conditioning throughout and other modern amenities. Four restaurants, two bars, one tennis court, one indoor swimming pool, one fitness centre and one beauty salon and spa help make your getaway experience complete.

HO CHI MINH CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 08)

KM8, Nguyen Thong St, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-175 Email: frontoffice@whitesandresort.com www.whitesandresort.com From VND1,344,000 VND ($64) MUSEUM

Cham Culture Exhibition Centre Song Mao intersection, Phan Hiep Commune, Bac Binh Dist., Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (062) 3641-456 Open: 7.30 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday Free entrance

DALAT

(TELEPHONE CODE: 063) Dalat, founded in 1893, has Frencharchitecture, pine forests and a

CONSULATES

Australia 5B Ton Duc Thang St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-6035 Belgium 91 Nguyen Huu Canh St, Ward 22, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3512-7968 Cambodia 41 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2751 Canada Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9899 China 175 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3829-2457

Cuba 45 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-7350 France 27 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-7231 Germany 126 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2455 India 55 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-7853 Indonesia 18 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-1888 Japan 13-17 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (08) 3822-5314 Kuwait 24 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, tel: (08) 3827-0555 Laos 93 Pasteur St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-7667 Mexico 11 Tra Khuc St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3848-6290 Netherlands 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-5932 New Zealand Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-6907 Panama 7A Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3825-0334 Russia 40 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-3936 Singapore Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5173 South Korea 107 Nguyen Du St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5757 Switzerland 42 Giang Van Minh St, Dist.2, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3744-6996 Thailand 77 Tran Quoc Thao St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-7637 United Kingdom 25 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-1380, (08) 3829-8433 United States 4 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-9433

VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

â&#x20AC;˘ 51

DIRECTIONS HO CHI MINH CITY HOSPITALS Columbia Asia Gia Dinh International Hospital 1 No Trang Long St, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3803-0678 FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang St, Dist.7, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 5411-3500 Stamford Skin Centre 254 Dien Bien Phu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-1090 Email: info@stamfordskin.com www.stamfordskin.com AIRLINES

Air France 130 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-0981 All Nippon Airways 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3821-9612 American Airlines 69 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3933-0330 Asiana Airlines 39 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8710, (08) 3829-3038 British Airways 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-2933 Cathay Pacific Airways 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3203 Emirates Airlines 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-2939 Japan Airlines 88 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3821-9098 Jetstar Pacific Airlines 112 Hong Ha St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3955-0550

Philippine Airlines 2nd Floor Saigon Royal Building 91 Pasteur St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-2105 Qatar Airways 1-5 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-3888 Royal Brunei Airlines 787 Tran Hung Dao St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh CityTel: (08) 3924-5100 Singapore Airlines 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-1588 Thai Airways International 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2809 Turkish Airlines 76A Le Lai St, Room 4, 8th Floor, AB Tower, Dist. 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3936-0360 - Ext 121 Email: saigon@thy.com.vn www.turkishairlines.com United Airlines Suite 708 Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-4755 Vietnam Airlines 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3832-0320 Vietjet Air 8Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-0123 www.vietjetair.com TRAVEL

Asiana Travel Mate 113C Bui Vien St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3838-6678 Buffalo Tours 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9168 Email: travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn Buffalo Tours operates in Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia and Laos. The Buffalo Tours portfolio caters to all types of tours. Exotissimo 80-82 Phan Xich Long St,

Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3995-9898 www.exotissimo.com Saigon Tourist 45 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9279 www.saigon-tourist.com Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (08) 3844-1005 Email: dosm@trailsofindochina.com www.trailsofindochina.com Transviet Travel Travel House, 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3933-0777 www.transviet.com.vn HOTELS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Catina Saigon Hotel 109 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-6296 www.hotelcatina.com.vn From VND1,690,500 ($80.50) Caravelle Hotel 19-23 Cong Truong Lam Son St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-4999 www.caravellehotel.com Duxton Hotel Saigon 63 Nguyen Hue Blvd, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-2999 enquires@saigon.duxton.com.vn www.duxtonhotels.com First Hotel

18 Hoang Viet St, Ward 4, Tan Binh Dist, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-1199 Email: first.hotel@hcm.vnn.vn www.firsthotel.com.vn Grand Hotel Saigon

November 2011, adds a modern style. 230 rooms and suites, a ballroom, recreation area, VIP Lounge, Western & Asian restaurants, Bars & Grand Café at Roof Garden Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, tel: (08) 3925-7777 reservation@hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn From VND4,830,000 ($230) InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner Hai Ba TrungSt. & Le Duan Blvd, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3520-9999 Email: saigon@ihg.com www.intercontinental.com/Saigon From VND5,845,455 ($278) Kelly Hotel 42-44 Thu Khoa Huan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3823-3364 Email: info@kellyhotel.com.vn www.kellyhotel.com.vn From VND966,000 ($46) An elegant and cosy hotel with good service. Within walking distance to Ben Thanh market, Independence Palace and several museums. Vietnamese food is served at reasonable prices. Mövenpick Hotel Saigon

253 Nguyen Van Troi St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-9222 Email: hotel.saigon@moevenpick.com www.moevenpick-hotels.com Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-333 Email: info@legendsaigon.com www.legendsaigon.com From VND4,221,000 ($201) Liberty Central Hotels in Ho Chi Minh City 17 Ton Duc Thang St, Dist.1 Tel: (08) 3827-1717 177-179 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1 Tel: (08) 3823-9269 Email: frontdesk.lcc@libertyhotels.com.vn

www.libertycentralhotel.com New World Saigon Hotel 76 Le Lai St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8888 Email: saigon@newworldhotels.com www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 8 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3823-0163 Email: info@grandhotel.vn www.grandhotel.vn Built in 1930, the Ancient Wing of Grand Hotel Saigon offers a cozy and elegant atmosphere. The Luxury Wing, opened in

52 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

New Epoch Hotel 120 Cach Mang Thang 8 St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-6169 reservation@newepochhotel.com.vn www.newepochhotel.com.vn From VND1,155,000 ($55)

DIRECTIONS HO CHI MINH CITY Northern Hotel Saigon

11A Thi Sach St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-1751 Email: reservation@northernhotel.com.vn

www.northernhotel.com.vn From VND1,505,000 ($71) Three-star boutique hotel, 99 rooms in Superior, Deluxe and Suite categories, a short walk from major entertainment and shopping venues. Novotel Saigon Centre 167 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3822-4866 Email: H7965@accor.com www.novotel-saigon-centre.com From VND2,959,000 ($140) Palace Hotel Saigon 56-66 Nguyen Hue Blvd, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2860 Email: sales@palacesaigon.com www.palacesaigon.com Park Hyatt Saigon 2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1234 Email: saigon.park@hyatt.com www.parkhyattsaigon.com From VND 8,424,900 PARKROYAL Saigon 309B – 311 Nguyen Van Troi St,Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3842-1111 enquiry.prsgn@parkroyalhotels.com

www.parkroyalhotels.com From VND2,173,500 ($103.50)

Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0033 Email: reservation@renaissancesaigon.com www.renaissance-saigon.com From VND4,105,500 ($195.50)

Sonnet Saigon Hotel

Rex Hotel

BARS & CAFÉS

14 Truong Dinh St., Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-1999 reservation@sonnetsaigonhotel.com www.sonnetsaigonhotel.com Windsor Plaza Hotel

141 Nguyen Hue St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2185 Email: rexhotel@rex.com.vn www.rexhotelvietnam.com From VND4,620,000 ($220) Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers 88 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-2828 Email: sheratonsaigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon From VND8,740,000 ($416) Silver Creek City Resort 112 An Phu Dong 11, Dist.12, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3719-9533 Email: reservation@silvercreek.com.vn www.silvercreek.com.vn From VND1,207,500 ($57.50)

18 An Duong Vuong, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3833-6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com RESTAURANTS

Kim Lam Restaurant

Sofitel Saigon Plaza

17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1555

Vatel Saigon Bistronomique-Lounge 120 Bis Suong Nguyet Anh St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 5404-2220 www.vatelsaigon.com Vietnam House Restaurant 93 - 95 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-1623 www.vietnamhousesaigon.com

Royal Hotel Saigon 133 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5915 Email: hotel@royalhotelsaigon.com www.royalhotelsaigon.com From VND1,932,000 ($92)

Ramana Hotel Saigon 323 Le Van Sy St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3843-9999 Email: info@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com From VND1,050,000 ($50) Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon 8-15 Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe

Email: h2077@sofitel.com www.sofitel.com From VND3,864,000 ($184)

23 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6299-0879 Email: kimlam@galaxyfood.com.vn www.kimlam1galaxyfood.com The restaurant serves Vietnamese food from the North, Centre and South with emphasis on artistic garnish. It has three floors and can hold one hundred and twenty people. The restaurant is a treasure trove of Vietnamese culture with art objects serving as the decor Kobe Teppanyaki Restaurant 13A Tu Xuong St, Ward 7, Dist 3, Ho Chi MInh City Tel: (08) 3932-0187 Lemongrass Restaurant 4 Nguyen Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0496 www.bongsencorporation.com Mam Son Restaurant 35 Ton That Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3915-3653 Vietnamese food

Elle Cafe 45 Ngo Duc Ke St, Bitexco Financial Tower, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6291-8769 Caffe Molinari 5 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3910-6903 Email: molinari@vnn.vn www.caffemolinari.com Sax N’ Art Jazz Club 28 Le Loi St, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8472 www.saxnart.com Thao Nguyen Café Floor 7 and Rooftop of Restaurant Ngon 138 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9666 Open from 7 a.m. until 10.30 p.m. SHOPS

IPA Nima 85 Pasteur St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-2701 IPA Nima is well-known for its bags. Shin 122 Ly Tu Trong St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City 53A Nguyen Du St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 0909352369 Shin is famous for fashion clothes and leather bags. SPA

Vspa & Skincare

15B/25 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9484 Email: reception.vspa@gmail.com www.vspa.com.vn 20 per cent off all treatments when you show us a copy of Vietnam Heritage COOKING CLASSES

Mint Culinary School 778/45 Nguyen Kiem St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City

VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

• 53

CENTRE OF HO

1 Duxton Hotel Saigon 2 Equatorial Hotel 3 Grand Hotel 4 Intercontinental Asiana Saigon Hotel 5 Kelly Hotel

6 Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon 7 Majestic Hotel 8 New W World orld Hotel 9 Oscar Hotel 1 0 Park Hyatt 10 1 1 Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon 11 12 1 2 Rex Hotel 13 1 3 Sheraton Saigon Hotel & TTowers owers 14 1 4 New Epoch Hotel

2 1 4 14

15 1 5 Ngon 138 Restaurant 16 1 6 V ietnam House Restaurant Vietnam

1 7 V 17 -Spa V-Spa

4 2

STREET GUIDE 3 Thang 2..........A2, A3, B2 Alexandre De Rhodes........ ........................................E2 An Duong Vuong....A4, B4 Ba Le Chan....................D1 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan...... ........................................C2 Ban Co...........................B3 Ben Chuong Duong........... .................................D4, E4 Ben Van Don...........D4, E4

Bui Thi Xuan..................C3 Bui Vien...................C4, D4 Cach Mang Thang Tam..... ......A1, B1, B2, C2, C3, D3 Calmette.........................E4 Cao Thang.....................B3 Chu Manh Trinh.............F2 Co Bac.....................C4, D4 Co Giang............. ...C4, D4 Cong Quynh............C3, C4 De Tham........................D4

Dien Bien Phu..................... A3, B2, C2, D1, D2, E1, F1 Dinh Tien Hoang............E1 Do Quang Dau...............C4 Do Thanh.......................B3 Doan Cong Buu.............C1 Doan Nhu Hai..........E4, F4 Dong Du.........................F3 Dong Khoi................E3, F3 Hai Ba Trung....................... ...........................D1, E2, F3 Hai Trieu.........................F4

Ham Nghi.................E4, F4 Han Thuyen....................E2 Ho Hao Hon...................C4 Ho Tung Mau...........E3, E4 Ho Xuan Huong.............C2 Hoa Hung.......................A2 Hung Vuong...................A4 Huyen Tran Cong Chua..... ........................................D3 Huynh Thuc Khang........E3 Huynh Tinh Cua.............D1 Ky Con.....................D4, E4

Ky Dong...................B2, C1 Le Duan...................E2, F2 Le Hong Phong.................. ...........................A2, A3, A4 Le Lai.......................C3, D3 Le Loi..............................E3 Le Quy Don....................D2 Le Thanh Ton...................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Le Thi Hong Gam............... .................................D4, E4 Le Thi Rieng............C3, D3

Le Van Sy.......................B1 Luong Huu Khanh.........C3 Ly Chinh Thang.......C1, C2 Ly Thai To......................A3 Ly Tu Trong......................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Ly Van Phuc...................E1 Mac Dinh Chi...........E1, E2 Mac Thi Buoi..................F3 Mai Thi Luu..............E1, F1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia............ ...................C1, D1, D2, D3

CHI MINH CITY D

15 10 5

13 1

16 9 3

Ngo Duc Ke....................F3 Ngo Thoi Nhiem ....C2, D2 Ngo Van Nam.................F2 Nguyen Binh Khiem.............. .....................................F1, F2 Nguyen Cau...................D1 Nguyen Cong Tru............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ ......B3, C2, C3, D2, E1, F1 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Hue.............E3, F3

Nguyen Khac Nhu.............. .................................C4, D4 Nam Quoc Cang.....C3, C4 Nguyen Phi Khanh.........E1 Nguyen Sieu...................F3 Nguyen Son Tra................. .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Tat Thanh..........F4 Nguyen Thai Binh............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Thai Hoc....D3, D4 Nguyen Thanh Y............E1

Nguyen Thi Dieu............C2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai........ .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Thien Thuat........... .................................A3, B3 Nguyen Thong........B2, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien........ .................................B2, C3 Nguyen Trai.............B4, C4 Nguyen Trung Ngan......F2 Nguyen Trung Truc........E3 Nguyen Truong To.........E4

Nguyen Van Cu..............B4 Nguyen Van Thu......E1, F1 Pasteur................................ ...............D1, D2, E2, E3,E4 Pham Ngoc Thach.........D1 Pham Ngu Lao........C4, D4 Pham Viet Chanh...........B3 Phan Ke Binh..........E1, E2 Pho Duc Chinh...............E4 Phung Khac Khoan.......E2 Suong Nguyet Anh........C3 Thach Thi Thanh.....D1, E1

Thai Van Lung................F3 Thi Sach.........................F3 Thu Khoa Huan.......D3, E3 To Hien Thanh................A1 Ton That Dam..........E3, E4 Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Binh Trong......A3, A4 Tran Cao Van.................E2 Tran Dinh Xu...........B4, C4 Tran Hung Dao.......C4, D4 Tran Minh Quyen...........A3 Tran Nhan Tong.......A3, A4

Tran Phu.........................A4 Tran Quang Dieu...........B1 Tran Quang Khai.....D1, E1 Tran Quoc Thao......C1, D2 Tran Quoc Toan......C1, D1 Truong Dinh............C1, C2 Tu Xuong.......................C2 Vinh Vien........................A3 Vo Thi Sau........C2, D1, E1 Vo Van Tan..............C3, B3 Vuon Chuoi..............B2, B3 Yersin..............................D4

DIRECTIONS VUNG TAU, LONG HAI, CON DAO, CAN THO, CHAU DOC Tel: (08) 3844-5500 Email: sales@vca.com.vn www.vca.com.vn Saigon Cooking Class 74/7 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com GALLERIES

Artists Long & Ngoc Gallery Grand Hotel (at the lobby), 8 Dong Khoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City TeL: (08) 2246-6839 Mobile: 0908 229 708 Email: ngoclongfineart@yahoo.com Apricot Gallery 50 Mac Thi Buoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-7962 Cactus Contemporary Art 17/12 Nguen Huy Tuong St, Ward 6, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 7300-1270 info@cactusartgallery.com www.cactusartgallery.com Craig Thomas Gallery 27i Tran Nhat Duat St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Mobile: 0903 888 431 Email: cthomasgallery@gmail.com www.cthomasgallery.com Open: 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sundays Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3836-8019 www.galeriequynh.com Sàn Art 3 Me Linh St, Ward 19, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3840-0183 www.san-art.org Opening: 10.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. every. Closed on Sunday and Monday Tu Do Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3821-0966 www.tudogallery.com Opening: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday MUSEUMS

Fine Arts Museum of Ho Chi Minh City 97A Pho Duc Chinh St, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-4441 www.baotangmythuattphcm.com Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Mondays. Ho Chi Minh City Museum 65 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-9741 www.hcmc-museum.edu.vn Open daily 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Independence Palace 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Thanh

Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3652 www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn Open daily, 7.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m., 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. War Remnants Museum 28 Vo Van Tan St, Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3930-5587 Email: warrmhcm@gmail.com Open daily 7.30 a.m. to midday and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

A popular beach resort town for residents of Ho Chi Minh City, Vung Tau is about 128 km southeast of HCMC. It can be reached either by road or by a 90-minute hydrofoil boat from HCMC. Sitting on a peninsula that sticks out into the East Sea, Vung Tau does not have the most beautiful, or cleanest, beaches in Vietnam but can act as a quick getaway from the buzz of the city.

Petrosetco Hotel 12 Truong Cong Dinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3624-748 Email: sales@petrosetco.com.vn www.petrosetcohotel.vn From VND1,085,700 ($52) Petro House Hotel 63 Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3852-014 Email: info@petrohousehotel.vn www.petrohousehotel.vn From VND1,260,000 ($60) Newly refurbished rooms conveniently located near Vung Tau ferry terminal. Catering to Asian and European tastes with Malaysian cuisine specialty. Romeliess Hotel

HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Mường Thanh Vung Tau Hotel No 09, Thong Nhat St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3835-567 Email: sales@vungtau.muongthanh.vn www.vungtau.muongthanh.vn From VND1,890,000 ($90) Grand Hotel Vung Tau

31 - 33 Thuy Van St, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3613-366 Email: sales@romeliss.com www.romeliesshotel.com A new three-star hotel at the Back Beach, the ‘best beach in Vung Tau,’ with nearly 50 rooms overlooking the beach! Many promotions at www.romliess.com The Imperial Hotel & Residences Vung Tau 159 - 163 Thuy Van St, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3628-888 Email: info@imperialhotel.vn www.imperialhotel.vn MUSEUM

2 Nguyen Du St, Ward.1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-888 Email: sales@grandhotel.com.vn www.grandhotel.com.vn From VND2,058,000 ($98) A four star hotel, 125 km from Saigon, built in 1890s with the French architecture, near the beach and few hundreds metres from Vung Tau Hydrofoil Terminal. 66 rooms and 17 apartments, three meeting rooms seated from 20 to 250 and wedding services.

White Palace 6 Tran Phu St, Ward.1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3852-605 Open daily 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.

LONG HAI

Long Hai is a beach town, 30km northeast of Vung Tau and 124 km southeast of HCMC. The Grand Ho Tram Strip

Palace Hotel

Phuoc Thuan, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province Tel: (064) 3788-888 Email: info@thegrandhotramstrip.com www.thegrandhotramstrip.com 1 Nguyen Trai St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-411 Email: sales@palacehotel.com.vn www.palacehotel.com.vn From VND2,062,000 ($97)

56 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

CON DAO

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist., Ba Ria - Vung Tau Province

Tel : (064) 3831-222 reservations-condao@sixsenses.com www.sixsenses.com/resorts/ con-dao/destination From VND14,490,000 ($690) Six Senses Con Dao has been selected as one of 2013's 25 Best Ecolodges by National Geographic Traveler

CAN THO

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0710) Can Tho is the largest city in the Mekong Delta, about 170 km southwest of Ho Chi Minh City, and acts as the area’s economic, transportation and cultural centre. Sitting on the Mekong River, Can Tho is popular for its nearby floating markets, canals and rivers that can be explored by boat. HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Golf Can Tho Hotel 2 Hai Ba Trung St, Tan An Ward, Ninh Kieu Dist., Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3812-210 Email: golf4.cantho@vinagolf.vn www.vinagolf.vn Victoria Can Tho Resort Cai Khe Ward, Ninh Kieu Dist., Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3810-111 Email: resa.cantho@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia From VND3,700,000 ($175) MUSEUM

Can Tho Museum 1 Hoa Binh St, Tan An Ward, Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3820-955 Open: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.); Saturday and Sunday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 6.30 p.m. to 9 p.m.). Closed on Friday. Free admission

CHAU DOC

(TELEPHONE CODE: 076) HOTELS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Victoria Chau Doc Hotel 1 Le Loi St, Chau Doc Town, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3865-010 resa.chaudoc@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia From VND3,169,000 ($149) Victoria Nui Sam Lodge Vinh Dong 1, Nui Sam, Chau Doc, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3575-888 Email: resa.nuisam@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia MUSEUM

An Giang Museum 11 Ton Duc Thang St, My Binh Ward, Long Xuyen City, An Giang Province

Tel: (076) 3956-248 Open hour 7a.m. to 11a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Monday Entrance fee: VND42,000 ($2)

PHU QUOC

(TELEPHONE CODE: 077) Phu Quoc Island, off the southern tip of Vietnam in the Gulf of Thailand, has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. White-sand beaches, scuba diving around coral reefs or exploring the protected jungle. Accessible by either the Rach Gia hydrofoil boat or a 50-minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City. Modest family-owned bungalows on the beach to fivestar resorts. HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Eden Resort Phu Quoc Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Ward, Phu Quoc District, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3985-598 Email: reservations@edenresort.com.vn

www.edenresort.com.vn Chen Sea Resort & Spa Phu Quoc, Centara Boutique Collection Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3995-895 Email: cpv@chr.co.th www.centarahotelsresorts.com From VND3,381,000 ($161) La Veranda Resort Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 7, Duong Dong Town Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3982-988 Email: contact@laverandaresorts.com www.laverandaresorts.com VND5,082,000 to VND8,694,000 ($242 to $414) Sai Gon Phu Quoc Resort 1 Tran Hung Dao St, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3846-999 Email: sgphuquocresort@hcm.vnn.vn www.sgphuquocresort.com.vn VND2,499,000 to VND4,011,000 ($119 to $191)

CANADA

(Telephone code: 1) Xe Lua 254 Spadina Ave, Tonronto, Ontario Canada M5T2C2 Tel: (1-416) 703-8330 Xe Lua has been open since 1996 and serves phở for $6 a bowl Open: 11.30 a.m. to 12 p.m Chau Kitchen and Bar 1500 Robson St. Vancouver, British Columbia Tel: (1-604) 682-8020 www.chaukitchenandbar.com Serves Vietnamese dishes with prices starting at $7 per dish.

FRANCE

(Telephone code: 33) CLEMONT-FERRAND Kim Anh 6 Bis r Elie Gintrac Tel: (33-4) 7391-9364 Serves traditional Vietnamese food, from €12.80 per dish Open 11.30 a.m. to 3 p.m. (closed on Sundays). GRENOBLE Kim Ngan 22 r Nicolas Chrier Tel: (33-4) 7649-0847 Serves Vietnamese food with prices starting at €8 per dish

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

(Telephone code: 1) CALIFORNIA-CA Emerald Restaurant Pacific Gateway Plaza 3709 Convoy Street, Ste 101, San Diego, CA 92111 Tel: (1) 858-565-6888 Serves Vietnamese food

DIRECTIONS PHU QUOC, OVERSEAS Kieu Nga Lemongrass Restaurant 514 12th Ave Seattle, WA 98122 Tel: (1) 206-860-8164 Moonlight Café 1919 S Jackson St Seattle, WA 98144 Tel: (1) 206-322-3378 Massachusetts-MA Saigon Hut 305-307 Meridian St. Boston, ] MA 02128; Tel: (1) 617-567-1944 Xinh Xinh 7 Beach St (Washington St.) Boston, MA 02111 Tel: (1) 617-422-0501

UNITED KINGDOM

(Telephone code: 44) Little Saigon Restaurant 6 Bigg Market, Newcastle upon Tyne, England Tel: 01912330766 Vietnamese dishes

AUSTRALIA

(Telephone code: 61) La Mint 62–64 Riley St, East Sydney NSW 2010 Tel: (61) 293-311-818 Email: service@lamint.com.au www.lamint.com.au Open: Wednesday to Friday, noon to 2:30 p.m., Monday to Saturday, 6 p.m. to 10.30 p.m. French and Vietnamese dishes

INDONESIA

(Telephone code: 62) Pho 24 Pondok Indah, Plaza I, Jln. Taman Duta 1Blok UA 35 Jakarta Selatan Tel: (62) 0217-505-909 JIn. Wolter Mongonsidi No. 71, Kebayyoran Baru, Jakarta Selatan Tel: (62) 0217-278-8411 Pacific Place Mall, 5th Floor, SCBD, JIn. Jendral Sudirman Kav. 52-53, Jakarta 12190 Tel: (62) 0215-140-0531

Hung Ky Mi Gia 5237 El Cajon Blvd, San Diego, CA 92115; Tel: (1) 619-229-2188 Serves noodle varieties with prices starting at $5 per dish Open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. International Restaurant 1 4444 – A University Ave, San Diego, CA 92115 Tel: (1) 619-281-9999 Little Saigon 7 Linden Ave (Railroad) South San Francisco, CA 94080 Tel: (1) 650-589-1398 New York-NY Saigon Grill 620 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY 10024 Tel: (1) 212-875-9072 Serves over 100 Vietnamese dishes including vegetarian options Open 11 a.m. to 12 a.m. Mai Lan Vietnamese 505 N State St Syracuse, NY 13203 Tel: (1) 315-471-6740 www.mailanrestaurant.com L’Annam 121 University Pl New York, NY 10022 Tel: (1) 212-420-1414 VIRGINIA-VA Minh’s Vietnamese 2500 Wilson Blvd Arlington, VA 22201 Tel: (1) 703-525-2828 Prices start at $15 per dish Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (closed on Mondays) WASHINGTON-WC Ho Bac 1314 S Jackson St Seattle, WA 98144 Tel: (1) 206-860-8164 VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

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LAID BACK

Clockwise from top left: A gate at Phu Hau Village, Phu Tho Province, 2012. Photo: Lai Dien Dam; Harry Potter in Saigon. Photo: Nguyen Hoang Kim Long; Villagers with all kinds of tools to catch fish at a festival in Xuan Vien Commune, Ha Tinh Province, 2013. Photo: Tran Duy Ngoan; Planting on the rocks, Dong Van District, Ha Giang Province, 2012. Photo: Vinh Cat

58 â&#x20AC;˘ VIETNAM HERITAGE - OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014