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CONTENTS
JAPAN EXCLUSIVE DECEMBER 2012
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TRAVEL 30 HIROSHIMA 50 OKINAWA
21 CULTURE ONE PEOPLE ONE PLACE
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ORIGAMI
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BUDDHA
ZOOM IN
SAKURA
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SUMO 72
FESTIVAL
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KOINOBORI
HINAMATSURI 86 JIDAI 92
102 TEA FESTIVAL CUISINE TRADITIONAL SUSHI
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MOCHI
112 SAKE 126 TOP RESTAURANTS
CONTRIBUTORS
ANH HONG (HIKARI)
“I love Japan and I take a Japanese class everynight. I love to go to Japan and exlore all the wonderful sceneries there, also the cultures, historical places, and the stories behind. My favorite city is Kyoto. Why? Because its the most ancient city of Japan, you can feel both the ancient and modern at the same time. And yes, this place is famous for Geisha culture too.
HOANG LAP (SOLANA DE LUJA)
What i love about Japan are , the people and the culture. I love how colorful they celebrate the festivals, and their art style is just simply gorgeous. Japan is just precious to me. My favorite city is, Harajuku of course, the youngest and most colorful city in Japan. Get used with the word “Weird wearing style”, because everything is wierd here. This place is called “Cosplay Town” and also famous for the Yosakoi festival.
VI VU
I dont know anything about Japan. But i love Japan because of the food. Mochi is my favorite, because its soft, sweet, and yummy! My favorite city is Tokyo, i love the modern life, hight towers and buildings, also the fashionable clothes, dont forget the hansome boys too. Pikachu is my favorite anime character is Pikachu, because people say me face look familiar to it. And i have a lot of Pikachu dolls at home too.
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EDITOR And so it is. Around has made it from the imagination of 14 MA Journalism students from Independent College Dublin all the way into your hands. Around is an alternative travel magazine, aimed at satisfying the needs of travellers searching for something more than sun, sea and sunburn. With Around we want to take you off the beaten track, provide you with new insights into familiar destinations and arm you with everything you need before, during and after your trip. In this, our first issue, you’ll find a cost-effective way of touring Japan, learn why music festivals don’t have to result in mud fights and discover the world’s top five budget fashion destinations. I’d like to thank all our contributors for sharing their words with the world and for their efforts in ensuring that all information contained in Around was correct at the time of going to print. Special thanks must go to Cormac Murtagh, Andrew Cosgrave and Conor Tobin for their efforts in developing and completing the layout and design of Around. I must also acknowledge the work of our subediting team of Ronan Abayawickrema, Rory Coen and Deirdre Gilhawley who have worked diligently to dot every i and cross every t. To our lecturers at Independent College Dublin – especially Janice Gaffey, Lizzie Gore-Grimes, June Wright, Thomas McGraw-Lewis and Paula Mullooly – without your guidance, patience and time, this magazine would not exist. Thanks also to Martha Mathews and Ian Byrne at Independent Digital Limited. Finally, to our readers. We hope you enjoy reading Around as much as we enjoyed writing, designing and producing it.
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Editorrial Director: Adiana Editor: Gazamirane Deputy Editor: Valeria Associate Editors: Elisa, Sofia Contributing Editors: Garcia, Selva Art Editor: Adelina Esperanza Designers: Lisa Lynway, Lorch Furholden Production Manager: Vincente Rio Production Controllers: Andre Jazur Freelance Production Controller: Hellena Project Manager: Mario Chief Exicutive: Veroniff Managing Director: Ion Oannes Felipe Office Manager: Lionel vonHannen Office Assistance: Ludin vonHannen Finacial Controller: Beatrice Credit Control Manager: Tora Boy Accounts Manager: Catherine Torsche Credit Controller: Emilia Guilano Account Assistant: Grace Bernellie
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Around Is pubished by Absolute Pubishing Ltd.197-199 Ho Chi Minh city. www.asia.co.vn Editorial T: 0917519225. Email: editorial@aisa.co.vn Sales/Admin T: 093123677. Sales/Admin F: 0909583485 Email: sale@around.co.vn Around Is pubished by Absolute Pubishing Ltd. Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2012 and alrights are reserved Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken is compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers asume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are advissed to seek professional advice before acting on any information
Travel well. Editor.
COVER
Designer: Solana Ideas: Vi Vu, Hikari Featuring: Tokyo Tower, Kyoto Temple, Sakura flowers, Japanese handfans, Mount Fujii and the Red Cranes
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TYPES OF TRANSPORT
35%
BUSINESS
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32%
TRAVEL
18%
STUDY
15%
OTHERS
THE PLACES PINNERS LOVE THE BEST
10%
KYOTO
20% 17% 16%
37% 40%
15%
13%
11% 8%
GROW UP
2000
OSAKA OKINAWA
THE STORES PINNERS LOVE THE BEST
SHINKANSHEN
100%
TOKYO
2003
2006
OKI TEMPURA FUJI CAKE TOKYO DELI
2009
2012
2013
GUESS
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SHORT TRAVEL
24 HOURS IN
JAPAN Japan is a land of fascination for many – from the language to the dress, Harajuku to Hiroshima, it’s a land of extremes and apparent paradoxes. It’s modern, but it’s ancient; it’s conservative but open-minded; there is a lot of serious business, but boy do they know how to have fun.
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JAPAN’S TRICK ART Whether covered in the first green of spring, or in glorious autumn colors, Mount Takao has something to offer in any season. Come and savor the rich and varied nature of Mount Takao, abandon your visual preconceptions, and have a fun time and memorable experience at the Trick Art Museum. Be ready to make fresh discoveries and to have your imagination challenged. CENTRAL HONSHŪ Japan’s heartland in both geography and attitude. Stretching between the two great megalopolises of Kantō (Greater Tokyo) and Kansai (Osaka–Kyoto–Kobe), the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Japan, this region is filled with commercial centres and traditional towns, the massive Japan Alps and a rugged northern coastline.
BUSY NAGOZA Japan’s fourth-largest city, is the nation’s industrial heart, with a can-do spirit and unique foods. Hokuriku’s hub is Kanazawa, a historic yet thriving city whose handsome streets once housed samurai and geisha. Lovely Takayama is admired for its traditional riverside houses, delicious cuisine and verdant countryside. Matsumoto is another favourite with visitors for its striking 16th-century black-and-white castle and many galleries. TAKAYAMA A 21st-century city that’s also retained its traditional charm. Vibrant morning markets, hillside shrines and a laid-back populace add to the town’s allure, and it should be a high priority on any visit to Central Honshū. Give yourself at least two days to enjoy the place.
AFTER HOURS
ESASHI Esashi was the economic centre. It’s still an important fishing town. Listen to performances of Esashi Oiwake, a nationally known music style, at Esashi Oiwake Museum (;52-0920; admission ¥500; closed Mon in winter). Shows are held at 11am, 1pm and 2.30pm. It’s high-pitched, nasal singing that will either fascinate or make you want to cover your ears. HIMEJI Himeji, a small city halfway between Osaka and Okayama, is home to Japan’s most impressive castle: Himeji-jō. In addition to the castle, the city is home to the Hyōgo Prefectural Museum of History and Kōko-en, a small garden alongside the castle. The town may not be much to look at, but it’s friendly and there are plenty of good places to eat. Best of all, Himeji can easily be visited as a day trip from Kyoto, Osaka.
EAT Sushi Mention Japan and everybody thinks of “sushi”. While it’s true that “sushi” is a popular Japanese dish, most Japanese don’t go to sushi bars all that often because of the cost. There are many alternatives if you want to eat affordable sushi. Instant Noodles While almost all Japanese will agree that this is not the most nutritious thing to eat, most will probably admit to eating a variant of this quite often. You can find them in any supermarket, “conbini” or sometimes even in vending machines. Yoshinoya There is a chain of 24-hour beef bowl restaurants known as Yoshinoya in Japan. The menu choices are quite few, however, you can get a bowl of rice with beef strips on it for less than the price of a bento, will agree that this is not the most nutritious .
It was extremely different from all the Asian countries that I have been to - no, make that all the countries that I have been to. Japan is a land of contradictions....
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LUXURY ROOMS
LUXURY HOTELS FAST FACTS ABOUT JAPAN Religion: One of the few religions in the world to have a female sun diety, or a female supreme diety Latitude of Tokyo: at 35.4° N, the same as Tehran, and about the same as Los Angeles (34.05° N) and Crete (35° N) Number of vending machines in Tokyo: 6 million GDP: US$5.87 trillion World’s busiest station:Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station, servicing 740, 000 passengers a day Population:127 million people Gender wage: gapwomen earn only 70% of what men earn Average annual snowfall at Niseko ski area in Hokkaidō: more than 11m. Number of rāmen restaurants: more than 200, 000. FOUR THINGS YOU MUST DO WHILE VISITING JAPAN 1. Travel on the Shinkansen Nicknamed the Bullet Train, the Shinkansen is Japan’s high speed train. Plans for a high-speed rail network began as early as the 1930s, and though plans ground to a halt during World War 2, the Shinkansen was launched in 1964, just in time for the Tokyo Olympics.
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2 1. CONRAD TOKYO
2. CONRAD TOKYO
3. MANDARIN ORIENTAL
Overlooking Tokyo’s Shiodome area and the Tokyo Bay skyline, this highrise hotel is five minutes from the Ginza Shopping Street. Hamarikyu Garden and the Tsukiji Fish Market .Conrad Tokyo offers a 25-meter indoor pool, a luxury day spa, a health club, saunas, and steam rooms. Dining options include two Gordon Ramsay restaurants, as well as Chinese and Japanese restaurants. Spacious guestrooms overlook the city or Hamarikyu Garden and the bay. All include premium bedding, flat-panel TVs, and wireless Internet access. Bathrooms offer rainfall.
Located within the 31-story, glass tower Pacific Century Place, this contemporary hotel is in the Marunouchi central business district, direct access to the Tokyo Station, and near the Ginza shopping district. Guests of the Four Seasons have around-the-clock access to the business and fitness centers and multilingual concierge. The minimaliststyle hotel also has a fullservice spa, modern grill, and lobby bar. The 57 spacious guestrooms at Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi feature floor-to-ceiling windows and include LCD televisions, surround sound.
Situated in Tokyo’s Nihonbashi neighborhood, this luxury hotel is close to Bridgestone Museum of Art, Tokyo Imperial Palace, and Kabuki-za Theatre. Also nearby are National Diet Building and Tsukiji Fish Market. At Shangri-La Hotel, Tokyo recreational amenities include an indoor pool and a fitness facility. The hotel also features complimentary high-speed (wired) Internet access and a concierge desk. Guestrooms include refrigerators and complimentary high-speed (wired) Internet access; bathrooms feature shower, tub combinations, makeup.
2. Visit an onsen Onsen is the name for Japan’s traditional thermal baths. If you have ever watched the animated Japanese film Spirited Away you will have an idea of the kinds of bathhouse you might find. It is one of the most relaxing ways to spend a few hours. 3. Go to Harajuku This is where the young and fashion forward of Tokyo come out to play. On a Sunday, teens will gather near Harajuku station to socialise, to shop, and most importantly, to be photographed. Outfits are carefully put together and immaculately styled. 4. Walk through Kyoto Kyoto is home to more world heritage sites than you can shake a stick at. There’s a well-worn tourist trail that takes you past some of the temples, shrines and ancient streets, which you can find in most guide books. A particular favourite is the Sagano bamboo forest – a stunning grove of towering bamboo trees.
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CALENDAR
IN THIS SEASON What are some of must-see events in Spring? Around complies a list of hot happenings across Japan.
JANUARY Tokiwahachimangu Toshiwa Hounougyoji, 1-1 At this festival for good health and a bountiful harvest, men wearing nothing more than loincloths carry a 400-kg rope on their shoulders as an offering to the shrine. Hyakudayujinja-sai, 5-1 This festival refers back to a puppeteer who is said to have helped spread belief in Ebisu, an ancient deity, throughout Japan. After ceremonies at the shrine, an offertory Ebisumai dance is performed. Oshichiya, 19-1 This seven-day event remembers the Buddhist saint Shinran.The temple compound is open to the public, while numerous street vendors are found just outside the gates.
FEBRUARY Mononobejinja Setsubun-sai 1-2 At this festival, beans are tossed to bring happiness and good health. The festival runs from the 2nd to the 3rd, with the bean-scattering event beginning on the 3rd at noon. Amanomehagi, 3-2 his festival is held to pray for village prosperity and a bountiful harvest. On the night of Setsubun (the final day of winter), adults wearing strange masks go from house to house, scaring children. Otou Matsuri, 23-2 This famous festival of fire has a history that stretches back 1400 years. Torches in hand, a group of some 2000 men dressed in white robes race down a steep flight of 538 stone steps.
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MARCH Kirihara Warakoma Matsuri, 8-3-2013 To bring prosperity in business, a straw horse, or Warakoma, is offered to the shrine. The raffle to win the straw horse is also very popular Usajingu Reitaisai, 16-3-2013 Offerings from the Imperial Household to the Kami are shared at this very important festival. Tokyo International Anime Fair 2013, 25-3-2013 One the world’s largest animation events held for the purpose of promoting Japanese animation to the world. The event consists of a ‘Trade Show’ featuring participation by exhibiting businesses, as well as a ‘Competition’ designed to publicly commend outstanding work, and other ‘Events’ such as various stage events.
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DUNE RAIDER
5
SHORT TRIPS
If you are going to Japan for a short trip, you are likely interested in narrowing your choices down to the most interesting places to visit. Here are 5 such places to consider visiting during your trip.
1. YOKOHAMA BAY The city of Yokohama is the second largest city in Japan. It lies along Tokyo bay. The bay surrounding this prominent Japanese port city is a lot of fun to explore. Also, be sure to check out the very large Chinatown area and Yokohama Marine Tower, the tallest inland lighthouse in the world. 2. MOUNTAIN FUJI You have probably heard of Mt. Fuji, but did you know that it is the highest mountain in Japan at 3,776 meters. Its symmetrical and conical shape is symbolic of Japan and can be seen from Tokyo on a clear day. If you are visiting Mt. Fuji from Eastern Japan, you can visit this famous mountain by train, car or taxi. You can take a bus to the 5th station starting on July 1. About 200,000 people climb this mountain each year. 3. SHINKANSEN OR BULLET TRAIN Your visit to Japan would not be complete without a ride on the bullet train, or shinkansen. There are actually several different train routes around the country. One of the most popular is the Tokaido shinkansen, which connects the cities of Tokyo and Osaka.
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4. KYOTO AND NARA Both Kyoto and Nara are treasures of Japan’s past full of temples, shrines and other traditional structures. When you visit certain special areas in both of these cities, you will be transported back through time to old Japan. Both cities are definitely worth a day trip from Osaka. 5. KAMAKURA Kamakura is a former de facto capital of Japan Today it is a city of about 175,000 people situated not far from Tokyo. It features a beach and several very old historical Buddhist temples that are very much worth visiting.
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AROUND-TRAVELER ONLINE
BEST OF THE BLOG JAPAN
If you’ve not yet discovered the weekly bblog on the Around website, here’s a taster. This month’s featured blog visits Japan. Words by Kimberly.
ONLINE NOW
HIMEJI CASTLE JAPAN’S MOST FAMOUS CASTLE
Why I Love Japan No place in the world is perfect– not even Japan. Every country and culture has its pros and cons, and things you may like or dislike depending on your personality. There are some things I don’t like about Japan, and I did begin to notice these things more after being in the country for a couple of years. But at the same time, I felt more at home there than I’ve ever felt anywhere else, and there’s a big part of me that will always be Japanese at heart. 1. Japanese is a beautiful language. I first fell in love with Japan through its language, and I don’t think it’s very hard to see why. I’ll admit I’m a little biased, but still… I find the sound of it very pleasant, and much softer than a lot of other Asian languages. It feels so nice to speak it too, because the sounds are so simple and easy to pronounce.
Known as the “White Heron Castle”, it is one of the three most famous in the country, and the most visited. Its fame, not to mention its beauty...
KAMAKURA GREAT BUDDHA
2. Japan has wonderful traditions. There’s nothing else like the Japanese tea ceremony, or the art of putting on a kimono (yes, it is an art!). Then there’s Japanese calligraphy, flower arrangement, martial arts, haiku… And the list goes on. Japan has so many nice ceremonies and art forms that really help you to relax and appreciate the beauty of the simple things in life. We just don’t have things like this in America. 3. Japan has the best customer service in the world. Okay, maybe I shouldn’t make such an unequivocal statement since I haven’t been to every country in the world. But somehow I don’t think the phrase “the customer is king” applies more anywhere else than Japan. Actually, in Japanese they say that the customer is God. Really. Japanese employees go out of their way to help you and make sure you get everything you need, and they are almost never rude. Any mistake or delay will get you a profuse apology, and they will do whatever they can to make it right. 4. Japan’s transportation system is excellent. The trains in and around Japanese cities are amazingly convenient. They are very frequent and almost always on time– and of course, a delay of even just one minute will result in profuse apologies from the conductor! Train stations are always staffed with employees who are ready to answer your questions and do so very well. City buses are also great, and you can even pay their fares with the same card you use to ride the train. Naturally though, the transportation systems in rural areas aren’t quite as good. 5.Japan is a very safe country. I always felt like I was safer in Japan than I would be in the states. Of course, Japan does have its share of crime and you can never be completely safe anywhere, so you should definitely follow common sense safety rules wherever you go. But still, Japan’s crime rates are quite low compared to most other countries. To read the full blog entry visit our website www.around-traveller.com/blog
The outdoor Daibustu is, alongside Miyajima’s “floating torii”, the best known monument in Japan. Kamakura is close to Tokyo...
NIKKO KEGON FALLS
Nikko is a long day trip from Tokyo, but possible if you take the shinkansen, or high-speed rail, which stops in Utsunomiya 35 km to the east...
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APAN
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SAKURA
THE SCENT OF JAPAN
UNDER
THE CHERRY BLOSSOM TREE MORE THAN A FOLK TALE
HIROSHIMA PEACEFUL PARK
A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE
OKINAWA
FRESH ISLAND, FRESH LOVE
ZOOM IN
THE CAPITAL TOKYO A MODERN JAPAN CITY
THE HERITAGE KYOTO A TRADITIONAL JAPAN
STATUE
OF KUSUNOKI MASASHIHE
Feel the Ancient and
The harmony of
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to get and see
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beneath
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the surface Japan
SOME HELPFUL RECOMMENDED TIPS FOR YOUR TRIP Addressing Someone, Respect
Bowing is nothing less than an art form in Japan, respect pounded into children’s heads from the moment they enter school. Just as a “Dr. Smith” might feel a little insulted if you were to refer to him as “Smith”, so would a Japanese if you do not attach the suffix “san” to their last name, or “sama” if you are trying to be respectful.
Table Manners
Some simple bullet points here: If you’re with a dinner party and receive drinks, wait before raising the glass to your lips. Everyone will be served, and someone will take the lead, make a speech, raise his drink, and yell “kampai!” (cheers). Just before digging in, it’s polite to say “itadakimasu” (I will receive).
No Tipping
There is no tipping in any situation in Japan – cabs, restaurants, personal care. To tip someone is actually a little insulting; the services you’ve asked for are covered by the price given, so why pay more? Just remind yourself: a price is a price.
Chopsticks
Depending on the restaurant you decide upon for that evening, you may be required to use chopsticks. If for some reason you aren’t too adept with chopsticks, try to learn before passing through immigration. It’s really not that hard. If you’re dining with a Japanese, don’t be surprised if you receive a look of amazement at your ability to eat like a Japanese.
Bathing
Public bathhouses are alive and well in Japan. Unlike in western cultures, the Japanese bath is used after you have washed and rinsed, and feel like soaking in extra-hot water for 10, 20, 30 minutes. It’s an acquired taste to be sure, but can be very relaxing. Lying in the hot water and slowly listening to my heart beat slow down is a time when I feel most attuned to Japanese culture.
Thresholds
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Take off your shoes at the entrance to all homes, and most businesses and hotels. Usually a rack will be provided to store your shoes, and pair of guest slippers will be sitting nearby; many Japanese bring a pair of indoor slippers just in case, though. Never wear slippers when you need to step onto a tatami mat and be careful to remove the toilet slippers waiting for you in the bathroom.
Masks
Nevertheless, sterilized masks, like the ones you’d see in the emergency room, are commonly used by salarymen, office ladies, and municipal workers to protect other people from their germs.
Speaking English
Japanese will generally assume you are a native English speaker until you prove otherwise. Japanese will generally assume you are a native English speaker until you prove otherwise.
Conformity
When groups of high school students in Japan were asked to identify the dangers facing children today, the majority agreed on the number one threat: individualism. Japanese society is focused on the group. Western cultures are focused on the individual.
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CUSTOMS YOU MUST KNOW HIKARI
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HIKARI PHOTO: VIOLET
Hanami “flower viewing” is the Japanese traditional custom of enjoying the beauty of cherry blossoms “sakura”. From the end of March to early May, sakura bloom all over Japan, and around the first of February on the island of Okinawa. In modernday Japan, hanami mostly consists of having an outdoor party beneath the sakura during daytime or at night.
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We’re
in spring
at Japan
T
he cherry blossom (sakura) is Japan’s unofficial national flower. It has been celebrated for many centuries and holds a very prominent position in Japanese culture. Japan has a wide variety of cherry blossoms; well over 200 cultivars can be found there. The most popular variety of cherry blossom in Japan is the Somei Yoshino. Its flowers are nearly pure white, tinged with the palest pink, especially near the stem. They bloom and usually fall within a week, before the leaves come out. Therefore, the trees look nearly white from top to bottom. The variety takes its name from the village of Somei. It was developed in the mid- to late19th century at the end of the Edo period and the beginning of the Meiji period. The Somei Yoshino is so widely associated with cherry blossoms that jidaigeki and other works of fiction often depict the variety in the Edo period or earlier; such depictions are anachronisms. Winter sakura or fuyuzakura begins to bloom in the fall and continues blooming throughout the winter. Other categories include yamazakura, yaezakura, and shidarezakura. The yaezakura have large flowers, thick with rich pink petals. The shidarezakura, or weeping cherry, has branches that fall like those of a weeping willow, bearing cascades of pink flowers. “Hanami” is the centuries-old practice of
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picnicking under a blooming sakura or ume tree. The custom is said to have started during the Nara Period (710–794) when it was ume blossoms that people admired in the beginning. But by the Heian Period (794–1185), cherry blossoms came to attract more attention and hanami was synonymous with sakura. Cherry blossom viewing is easy: Simply
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centuries, and today are held in public and private gardens and parks across the country. Famous cherry blossom spots can get very crowded, and the best picnic spots are fought after. In some especially places, it is common practice to reserve a picnic spot long before the party is held. A typical practice is to spread one’s picnic sheet early in the morning at that day and
Cherry blossoms are also especially beautiful in combination with a castle, temple or shrine. In some places the blossoms are lit up in the evening, which makes an amazing sight.
enjoy many blossoms by looking at a single tree or a group of trees. From a distance, the trees appear as beautiful clouds, while the beauty of single blossoms can be enjoyed. Nowadays, people in Japan have fun viewing cherry blossoms, drinking and eating. It is like a picnic under the trees. People bring home-cooked meals, do BBQ, or buy take-out food for hanami. In popular hanami spots, there are even competitions for the best spots. If you do not like a crowd, you can go to neighborhood parks/gardens or other quiet places. Hanami can be just a stroll in the park, but it traditionally involves a picnic party under the blooming trees. It have been held in Japan for many
either mark it with the group’s name and party’s starting time or to have somebody positioned there during the whole day until the rest of the group arrives after hardly work. Every year, weather services and the media, including japan-guide. com, closely follow the so called “cherry blossom front” as it slowly moves. Note that the front indicates the opening of the first blossoms (kaika) rather than the arrival of full bloom.Of course, not every tree in a city opens on the same day, as trees in shadowy places, for example, bloom several days later than trees in sunny places. For this reason, a set of representative sample trees is selected to define the date of kaika (the opening
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Cherry blossom festivals are held between March to May, take place all over the country Most of them are held between March to May, though other regions have them in January, February, and June, based on th eir location. Festival dates are usually determined with reference to cherry blossom forecasts and vary. Gorgeous flowers are main attractions of the festivals, but a variety of traditional Japanese performing arts presented in many festivals can’t be missed. Joining tea ceremonies held under cherry trees can be a memorable experience as well. It’s fun to stop by festival vendors which sell various food and souveniors, including regional crafts and speciality food in the region. It’s notable that many cherry blossom festivals hold light-up events.
From left: Sakura and Japanese viewing Bubda in Gintama
of the first blossoms) for a whole city. In Tokyo, the sample trees are located at Yasukuni Shrine. No matter where in Japan you happen to be, if it’s early spring you’ll find rows of cherry trees announcing their presence with their pink and white blossoms. Every public park provides at least a row of trees. The Motobu Yaedake Cherry Blossom Festival in Okinawa, is the earliest cherry blossom festival in Japan. This festival can begin as early as the first of January! Hanami season through most of Japan is a bit later. Most Cherry Blossom festivals are in March or April. Hanami, cherry blossom viewing parties, take place in the springtime in Japan. The best places to see the cherry blossoms bloom in Tokyo are Ueno Park , where more than 1000 trees are planted, and Sumida Park with hundreds of cherry trees blossoming in the Spring.Osaka Mint, Zouheikyoku, in Osaka allows visitors in to see their garden of more than one hundred different types of cherry trees while they are in bloom. In Kyoto the Ninnaji Temple and Hirano Jinja Shrine are popular places to gather for Hanami Festival. The Yasaka Shrine and Maruyama Park in downtown Kyoto are also well known areas for enjoying the cherry blossoms while they are bloom.
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There are many legends about the cherry tree in Japan, for example the Old Man and the Cherry Tree and the tale of the Cherry Tree of the Milk Nurse O-Sode, furthermore blossoming cherry trees were not only a sign to begin the rice planting season but also linked to divination of the forthcoming harvest
UNDER
CHERRY MORETHAN
THE
HIKARI PHOTO: VIOLET
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BLOSSOM TREE A FOLK TALE S
akura, as the blossoms are called, are beautiful and fragile. Along with peach blossoms, they are often part of traditional Hinamatsuri ceremonies for little girls.Cherry blossoms were used in ancient Japan to forecast how crops for the coming year would do. Modern Japan still celebrates Hanami - gatherings of friends to picnic under a canopy of cherry blossoms enjoying the brief burst of the beauty of nature. Preparing for a Hanami party involves keeping watch on the weather. Like the fall foliage in other areas, the color is short lived. Once the blossoms appear, they are often gone within days. The Sakura zensen, the cherry blossom front, is watched to calculate the exact timing for Hanami cherry blossom viewing parties. In Japan, weather stations provide updates and newspapers publish maps so everyone will know when the Sakura zensen will arrive in the area Kyoto. n the Heian era in feudal Japan, Hanami was reserved for members of the imperial family. Common people were not permitted to celebrate. Today everyone takes part and Hanami viewing is a great excuse to party. A group may begin early in the morning and continue through the day. Others wait until the evening lanterns are lit among the cherry trees and go on with feasting for hours into the night.
Fast food stalls help the picnickers out by providing barbecued chicken called yakitori and yakisoba and fried noodles. Some stalls even sell drinks for the nearby cherry blossom parties. Many think of the cherry blossom, Sakura, as Japan's national flower. It has never been officially proclaimed, but the flowers and the enjoyment they provide are very important to the Japanese people. Through the centuries, the Japanese have developed many different varieties of the cherry tree . All of these trees bloom for a short time with pink or white flowers. Cherries are part of the rose family and like roses, most cherry trees bloom during the spring. A few varieties are grown to flower later and actually show their blossoms in the autumn or even during winter. Normally, it is just a week to ten days before all of the blossoms are carried away by the wind. During this short time the land is covered with the colors and scent of the fragile cherry blooms. The intense beauty and short time span have associated cherry blossoms with spiritual and philosophical ideas such as the beauty. No matter where in Japan you happen to be, if it's early spring you'll find rows of cherry trees announcing their presence with their pink and white blossoms. Every public park provides at least a row of trees to visit.
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SHIRO CASTLE
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castle is a fortified building or set of fortified buildings used to provide both active and passive defence, as well as a residence for the castle’s occupants, usually the castle’s lord and household. A ‘shiro’ is the Japanese equivalent of a European castle, a shiro may appear to Europeans eyes as some thing far less robust to what they would be used to in their homelands but a shiro fulfilled the same functions as their European counter parts. He aim of this essay is to examine a shiro’s design features and their functions. The building we know today as a shiro was developed in the short period between the last part of the fifteenth century and the first part of the seventeenth century. The major elements of the design and technology were borrowed from both religious and residential architecture of the period.
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ENDLESS DISCOVERY
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IROSHIMA PEACEFUL PARK
A UNESSCO
WORLD HIKARI PHOTO: VIOLET
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As the symbol of Peace City Hiroshima, many people from around the world visit this place to pray for peace.
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The building served as a location to promote Hiroshima’s industries. When the bomb exploded, it was one of the few buildings to remain standings, and remains so today. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the A-Bomb Dome is a tangible link to Hiroshima’s unique past.
iroshIma’s Peace Memorial Park is one of the most prominent features of the city. Even visitors not looking for the Peace Park will likely stumble upon the large park of over 120,000 square meters. Its trees, lawns, and walking paths are in stark con trast to the surrounding downtown area. Before the bomb, the area of what is now the Peace Park was the political and commercial heart of the city. For this reason, it was chosen as the pilot’s target. Four years to the day after the bomb was dropped, it was decided that the area would not be redeveloped but instead devoted to peace memorial facilities. The park’s main facility is the Peace Memorial Museum. Consisting of two building, the museum surveys the history of Hiroshima and the advent of the nuclear bomb. Its main focus though is on the events of August 6; the dropping of the bomb and its outcome in human suffering. The personal details displayed are quite upsetting. The museum is geared to accommodate its international visitors.
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The A-Bomb Dome, also known as the Hiroshima Peace Memorial, is what remains of the former Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall. The building served as a location to promote Hiroshima’s industries. When the bomb exploded, it was one of the few buildings to remain standings, and remains so today. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the A-Bomb Dome is a tangible link to Hiroshima’s unique past. Between the Museum and the A-Bomb Dome is the Cenotaph for the A-Bomb Victims. The Cenotaph is an arched tomb for those who died because of the bomb, either because of the initial blast or exposure to radiation. Below the arch is a stone chest holding a register of these names, of which there are over 220,000. Every year on the anniversary of the bomb, a ceremony is held at the park. Speeches are made, wreathes are laid at the Cenotaph, and a moment of silence is observed at 8:15 am, the precise moment of detonation. Other activities occur throughout the day, and many staff are
employed to help foreign visitors. Visitors to Peace Memorial Park see brightly colored paper cranes everywhere. These paper cranes come originally from the ancient Japanese tradition of origami or paper folding, but today they are known as a symbol of peace. They are folded as a wish for peace in many countries around the world. This connection between paper cranes and peace can be traced back to a young girl named Sadako Sasaki, who died of leukemia ten years after the atomic bombing.
Address: 1-2 Nakajima-cho, Naka-ku, Jidai, Hiroshima City Phone: 082-241-4004 Admission: 50 yen for Adults, 30 yen for children Opening: 8:30-18:00 for March-November 8:30-17:00 for December-February Closed: December 29 to January 1. Access: By Bus, metro for Yoshijima from Hiroshima Station to Heiwa Kinen Koen. By Streetcar for Hiroshima Port via Kamiyacho. By Streetcar for Miyajima/Eba to Genbaku.
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Historical Description The Hiroshima Peace Memorial (Genbaku Dome), is a stark and powerful symbol of the achievement of world peace for more than half a century following the unleashing of the most destructive force ever created by humanity. In 1910 the Hiroshima Prefectural Assembly decided to build the Hiroshima Commercial Exhibition Hall to promote industrial production in the prefecture. Work started on a site on the east side of the Motoyasu River, to the designs of the Czech architect Jan Letzel, in 1914 and was completed the following year. In 1933 its name was changed to the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall. When the first atom bomb exploded over Hiroshima at 8.15 on the morning of 6 August 1945, causing the deaths of 140,000 people, this building was the only one left standing near the hypocentre of the bomb blast, albeit in skeletal form. It was preserved in that state when reconstruction of the city began, and became known as the Genbaku (Atomic Bomb) Dome. In 1966 Hiroshima City Council adopted a resolution that the dome should be preserved in perpetuity. The Peace Memorial Park, in which the dome is the principal landmark, was laid out between 1950 and 1964. The Peace Memorial Museum in the park was opened in 1955. Since 1952 the park has been the scene of the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Ceremony, held annually on 6 August. The only interventions since that time have been minimal, designed to ensure the continuing stability of the ruins. This may be likened to work carried out on archaeological sites around the world.
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Visitors to Park see brightly colored paper cranes everywhere. These paper cranes come originally from the ancient Japanese tradition of origami or paper folding, but today they are known as a symbol of peace.
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THE HERITAGE
KYOTO
A TRADITIONAL JAPAN The city served as the capital of Japan and the residence of the Emperor from 794 to 1868 and for over 1200 years the city has played the pivotal role as custodian of Japan’s artistic traditions.
HIKARI
PHOTO: VIOLET PRIEST
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ormerly the imperial capital of Japan, it is now the capital of Kyoto Prefecture, as well as a major part of the Kyoto-OsakaKobe metropolitan area. Kyoto is located in a valley, part of the Yamashiro (or Kyoto) Basin, in the eastern part of the mountainous region known as the Tamba highlands. Kyoto is an ancient city with a 1200 year history. It was established as Japan’s capital under the name “Heian-kyo” in the year 794. Although many transformations have taken place over the years, Kyoto has always adopted the most advanced standards of the times. It has greatly contributed to the nation’s industrial, economic and cultural development and strength. The dauntless and leading spirit of Kyoto’s past as a capital city.
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Kyoto also preserves the beloved properties of its culture as testimonials of time. This is shown in the ancient temples and shrines built in styles unique to Kyoto, as well as private houses. Moreover, many festivals, ceremonies and traditional industries reveal the will of this city to transmit.
targets and replaced by Nagasaki. The city was largely spared from conventional bombing as well, although small-scale air raids did result in casualties. As a result, Kyoto is one of the few Japanese cities that still have an abundance of prewar buildings, such as the traditional townhouses known as machiya. However, modernization is continually breaking down the traditional Kyoto in favor of newer architecture, such as the Kyoto Station complex.
Previous page from left: Kyoto’s Temple Clockwise from left: Temple in the sun set, temple in winter
The UNESCO World Heritage Site Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto includes 17 locations in Kyoto, Uji in Kyoto Prefecture and Otsu in Shiga Prefecture. Heian-kyo was a remarkably large area with a vast cityscape planned around the grounds of the old Imperial Palace, located in the north. The national markets in each of these areas were the largest in all of Japan, and a great number of commodities were brought in from around the nation. The Government was directly managing the manufacture of many handicrafts, and craftsmen who practiced the most advanced techniques of the time also gathered to live here. From the middle of the 10th century, the city gradually began to undergo change. Ukyo became less metropolitan, reverting back to a low-populated rural area of fields and gardens. Residents began to concentrate in the Sakyo area, and Heian-kyo mainly developed to the east of the Kamo River beyond the city proper, and also into the north. The city design of Heian-kyo lost its balanced shape and became known as “Kyoto” around the 11th or 12th century. Their unity was clearly shown in the grand festival and other ceremonies they organized in the Gion area. In the medieval period, Kyoto developed into one of Japan’s most influential cities. However, the “Great Civil Wars of Onin and Bunmei,” which lasted eleven years in the latter part of the 15th century, brought a crushing blow to the prosperity of medieval Kyoto. A quarter of a century was spent trying to recover, but the city would never be as it was before. Kyoto was not an integrated center anymore. There were fields and gardens extending for 2km. between the Kamigyo and Shimogyo regions. There was some consideration by the United States of targeting Kyoto with an atomic bomb at the end of World War II because, as an intellectual center of Japan, it had a population “better able to appreciate the significance of the weapon. In the end, at the insistence of Henry L. Stimson, Secretary of War in the Roosevelt and Truman administrations, the city was removed from the list of
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Legacy
A brilliant tactician and strategist, Kusunoki’s cunning defense of two key Loyalist fortresses at Akasaka and Chihaya helped allow Go-Daigo to briefly return to power. However, one of the loyalist generals, Ashikaga Takauji, betrayed Go-Daigo and led an army against Kusunoki and the remaining loyalists. Kusunoki suggested to the Emperor that they take refuge on sacred Mount Hiei and allow Takauji to take Kyoto, only to swoop down from the mountain, and with the help of the monks of Mount Hiei, trap Takauji in the city and destroy him.
His son, Masatsura, served the emperor’s successor, the 12-year-old Go-Murukami, in a relationship of reciprocal trust and devotion mirroring the figure of his father Kusunoki and keeping the flame of loyalist resistance alive. Masatsura died alongside his brother Masatoki and cousin Wada Takahide in a battle that saw the end of the Kusunoki clan and there followed a less-than-ideal scramble for power and gain among the Courts. Kusunoki Masashige’s successful defense of Chihaya castle is believed to have helped turn the tide against the Kamakura bakufu/shogunate (military rule and the first shogunate). Partly because he held out so long in his castle, Ashikaga Takauji revolted and came to the aid of the emperor, and thus ended the Kamakura bakufu. However, Ashikaga Takauji quickly learned that he did not like following the emperor’s commands, and revolted again to establish his own Ashikaga bakufu (the second, middle shogunate). He was able to establish his own shogunate after defeating Kusunoki Masashige and the commander in chief Yoshisada in the final battle. Kusunoki Masashige tried to intervene and bring Ashikaga Takauji back to the emperor’s side, but the emperor rejected this plan. Legend After the full-scale introduction of Neo-Confucianism as a state philosophy by the Tokugawa Shogunate, Kusunoki Masashige, once-called a traitor by the Northern Court, was resurrected with Emperor GoDaigo as a precursor of Sinocentric absolutists, based upon the Neo-Confucian theories. During the Edo period, scholars and samurai who were influenced by the Neo-Confucian theories created the legend of Kusunoki and enshrined him as a patriotic hero, called Nankō or Dai-Nankō, who epitomized loyalty, courage, and devotion to the Emperor. Kusunoki later became a patron saint of sorts to the World War II kamikaze, who saw themselves as his spiritual heirs in sacrificing their lives for the Emperor. Disaster
THE TACTICIAN
KUSUNOKI
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Go-Daigo was unwilling to leave the capital however, and insisted that Kusunoki meet Takauji’s superior forces in the field in a pitched battle. Kusunoki, in what would later be viewed as the ultimate act of samurai loyalty, obediently accepted his Emperor’s foolish command, left his death poem with his young son Masatsura and knowingly marched his army into almost certain death. The battle, which took place at Minatogawa in modern-day Chūō-ku, Kobe, was a tactical disaster. Kusunoki, his army completely surrounded, down to only 73 of the original 700 horsemen, committed suicide along with his brother Masasue, 11 close clan members, and 60 others. According to legend, his brother’s last words were Shichisei Hōkoku! ( “Would that I had seven lives to give for my country!”) and Kusunoki Masashige agreed. There are two accounts of arguments that Kusunoki Masashige made to emperor Go-Daigo. One was that they regroup and attack from two sides, the other was that they bring back general Takauji to their side thus balancing the scales. Both arguments were ignored.
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STATUE OF
KUSUNOKI IN
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TOKYO’ S IMPERIAL PALACE HIKARI
PHOTO: VIOLET PRIEST
Kusunoki Masashige (1294 - July 4, 1336) was a 14th century samurai who fought for Emperor Go-Daigo in his attempt to wrest rulership of Japan away from the Kamakura shogunate and is remembered as the ideal of samurai loyalty.
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M HIKARI
PHOTO: VIOLET PRIEST
Tokyo is the capital of Japan, the center of the Greater Tokyo Area, and the largest metropolitan area in the world.
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Tokyo features many internationally famous forms of modern architecture. Especialy, Tokyo also features two distinctive towers: Tokyo Tower and the new Tokyo Skytree which is the tallest tower in Japan and the second tallest structure in the world.
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TRANSPORTATION Tokyo is Japan’s largest domestic and international hub for rail, ground, and air transportation. Public transportation within Tokyo is dominated by an extensive network of clean and efficient trains and subways run by a variety of operators, with buses, monorails and trams playing a secondary feeder role.
Previous page from left: Tokyo Tower at night, Japan city in dawn. Right: Tokyo Highway.
Rail is the primary mode of transportation in Tokyo, which has the most extensive urban railway network in the world and an equally extensive network of surface lines
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Tokyo has always attracted Japanese from areas beyond its borders, mostly people from the rural areas to the north and east who come in hopes of benefiting from Tokyo’s economic prosperity, which is often in stark contrast to the depressed economies of much of rural Japan. Many of these newcomers, and many native Tokyoites, are young people, who throng the streets at all hours of the day and night, infusing the city with an atmosphere of youthful vitality.
In striking contrast to the ethnic and racial diversity that characterize large American cities, Tokyo, like the rest of Japan, is overwhelmingly mono-racial. The largest non-Japanese minorities that live in Tokyo as Japanese citizens are Korean and Chinese nationals, who are never considered Japanese even though some of these families have lived in Japan for centuries.
LIFE
From left to right: On the Tokyo Stree, Harajuku night view, Busy night weekend.
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AWA “rope in the open sea”, a fairly apt of this long stretch of islands between mainland Japan and Taiwan.
HE SUBTROPICAL ISLAND
The name Okinawa mean
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FRESH ISLAND FRESH LOVE
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PHOTO: SOLANA
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SPORT
Surfing is popular in Okinawa. Surfing spots can be found all over the archipelago, but most surfers surf off the main island. Sailing is gaining in popularity in Okinawa. There is a small but passionate international sailing community centered at Ginowan Marina, near the Convention Center. Local and international sailors cruise and race to the Kerama islands and to other locations.
MARINELIFE
The Okinawa archipelago is known as one of the world’s best diving destinations, having a number of coral species and marine lives. You can find over 400 types of corals, 5 types of sea turtles, manta rays, whale sharks, hammerhead sharks and many kinds of tropical fish.
Upside down from left: Surfing, Okinawa bride, Fishes in the Ocean, Okinawa view from the above
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Okinawa Prefecture can be divided into three major island groups, the Okinawa Islands around Okinawa Island, the Miyako Islands around Miyako Island and the Yaeyama Islands around Ishigaki Island.
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APANESE
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ONE PEOPLE
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ORIGAMI
THE ART OF PAPER CRAFT
THE INVENTION OF RELIGION IN JAPAN
SUMMO
WHY THEY CALL WE
Experience One of the most
Special
Unique culture in the world
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PEOPLE GAZAMI PHOTO: ANDRE
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The most recent census asked people to define themselves only by nationality and not ethnicity, so the true demographic of the country is still unclear Although only around 15,000 foreigners are naturalized each year, immigration has continued officially and unofficially since Japan ended its policy of isolation in the mid 18th century. AROUND J A P A N www.around.com
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apanese people appear at first glance socially and
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group in the world
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t is reasonable to equate Japan’s rapid post-war economic development to the 1990s with social solidarity and conformism. Despite labour shortages since the 1960s, authorities resisted officially sanctioning foreign workers until the 1980s, relying on increased mechanization and an expanded female workforce instead . Until recently, Japanese workers have associated themselves primarily with the company they work for – a businessman will introduce himself as ‘Nissan no Takahashi-san’ (I am Nissan’s Mr Takahashi). By extension, we might get the idea that a Japanese person subordinates the self to the objectives of society. In 2008, however, long-serving Japanese politician Nariaki Nakayama resigned after declaring that Japan is ‘ethnically homogenous’, showing that the old ‘one people, one race’ idea has become politically incorrect. Criticism of Mr Nakayama’s statement focused on its disregard for the indigenous Ryukyukan people of southern Okinawa, and the Ainu people from the north island of Hokkaido colonised by the Japanese in the late nineteenth century. In 1994 the first Ainu politician was elected to the Japanese Diet, suggesting that the Japanese are keen to officially recognise distinct ethnic groups in Japan. Apart from foreign immigration, Japanese people and their descendants have moved freely since the borders were opened. Although the census does not recognise them, there are now an estimated 750,000 Japanese citizens with mixed heritage, as well as 1.5 million permanent foreign residents in a total population of around 126 million. Some ‘harufu’ have gained a high profile in Japan, contesting the nationalist assertion that homogeneity is synonymous with Japanese prowess. The case for ethnic diversification is evident throughout Japanese society. The UN predicts that Japan will reach an economic crisis point by 2050 where the non-working population will outnumber the working population. Initiatives such as the 1994 Japan-Philippines Economic Partnership Agreement suggest that Japan is seeking a solution by granting more 3 to 4 year stays for trained workers and caregivers, though it is still very reluctant to grant permanent residency. Conservative politicians still advocate increased mechanization as the solution; swift advances are being made in robotics, particularly in the field of elderly care.
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Modern
Demographic Development The most recent census asked people to define themselves only by nationality and not ethnicity, so the true demographic of the country is still unclear Although only around 15,000 foreigners are naturalized each year, immigration has continued officially and unofficially since Japan ended its policy of isolation in the mid 18th century.
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Conservative politicians still advocate increased mechanization as the solution; swift advances are being made in robotics, particularly in the field of elderly care, but production would need to increase exponentially if the UN estimate of a ten million shortfall in workers by 2050 is remotely accurate.
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Previous page from left: Japanese woman and child, Japanese lady Above from left: Tokyo Under the bride, View from the train.
n 2004 Yu Darvish, of mixed Japanese and Iranian heritage, pitched an entire game for the professional Nippon Ham baseball team without a batsman reaching first base. More recently, Finnish-born Tsurunen Marutei became a member of parliament. Since Japan’s main indigenous and immigrant ethnic groups tend not to reside in the densely populated Kanto and Kansai areas of central Honshu where holidaymakers generally go, a tourist would probably conclude that the non-Japanese population is a relatively tiny number of white Caucasians. There is a floating population of Western English language teachers and finance sector workers, particularly in Tokyo, but the authorities have extremely tight restrictions on extending specialist work visas beyond three years so very few become permanent residents. The largest ethnic groups represented are in fact originally from Korea, China, Brazil and the Philippines. Since the 1970s there has been a steady inflow of Brazilians of Japanese descent, and this group now make up 5-10% of the population in some industrial towns in Japan. These days the younger generations speak only Japanese and not the language of their forebears. In addition to these families, tens of thousands of long-term ‘guest workers’ have been drafted in for factory and menial work under agreements since the 1990s. The case for ethnic diversification is evident throughout Japanese society. The UN predicts that Japan will reach an economic crisis point by 2050 where the non-working population will outnumber the working population. Initiatives such as the 1994 Japan-Philippines Economic Partnership Agreement suggest that Japan is seeking a solution by granting more 3 to 4 year stays for trained workers and caregivers, though it is still very reluctant to grant permanent residency.
Beyond ethnicity, there are cultural distinctions between the regions, most of which have existed for a long time but are not immediately obvious to a foreign visitor. For example, Osaka-ben, the idiomatic language used in the Kansai area, espouses the open discussion of money whereas Tokyoites are likely to take great pains to avoid discussion of the raw figures . Residents of Kyushu – the most southern of the four large Japanese islands - compare themselves with the Mediterranean, ‘with traditional Japanese reserve taking a backseat to more demonstrative temperaments.’ In 2008, however, long-serving Japanese politician Nariaki Nakayama resigned after declaring that Japan is ‘ethnically homogenous’, showing that the old ‘one people, one race’ idea has become politically incorrect. Criticism of Mr Nakayama’s statement focused on its disregard for the indigenous Ryukyukan people of southern Okinawa, and the Ainu people from the north island of Hokkaido colonised by the Japanese in the late nineteenth century. In 1994 the first Ainu politician was elected to the Japanese Diet, suggesting that the Japanese are keen to officially recognise distinct ethnic groups in Japan. Apart from foreign immigration, Japanese people and their descendants have moved freely since the borders were opened. Although the census does not recognise them, there are now an estimated 750,000 Japanese citizens with mixed heritage, as well as 1.5 million permanent foreign residents in a total population of around 126 million. Some ‘harufu’ have gained a high profile in Japan, contesting the nationalist assertion that homogeneity is synonymous with Japanese prowess. In a highly competitive job market where learning fluent English is seen as one of the keys to success, more and more young Japanese people are studying abroad mainly in the United States. This means that some are developing more stereotypically western individualist outlooks in their formative years.
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Challenges
For the Next Generation Distinct differences are also evident between the generations since the economic bubble burst in the 1990s. Younger generations are facing a dramatically different working culture in which a job for life is no longer guaranteed.
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stereotypically western individualist outlooks in their formative years. There is also the social phenomenon of furita, young people who take a number of part time jobs instead of a single full-time role, and intersperse these with stints in places like Bali and Australia. Traditionalists are particularly troubled by the number of otaku, a population of young adults estimated to be between one and three million who never leave home. In a significant number of cases, they are not employed and not paying taxes. This adds to the state’s dilemma of how to provide for an increasing elderly population – the largest in the developed world - while the population as a whole is decreasing and some young people are only entering employment part-time, if at all.
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Above from left: A Japanese artist in Paris
istinct differences are also evident between the generations since the economic bubble burst in the 1990s. Younger generations are facing a dramatically different working culture in which a job for life is no longer guaranteed. Consequently, the identification of the self with the company is weakening. Japanese companies now routinely outsource work and lay off workers who may have been with the company for decades, as dramatised through the character of the father in the 2008 film Tokyo Sonata. While that movie is of course a work of fiction and does not necessarily represent a typical situation, it does highlight the cultural shift away from an often-quoted Japanese idiom: ‘the nail which stands up must be hammered down.’ The movie espouses individual development over conformity, as the son flourishes as a piano prodigy despite his father’s attempts to have him conform to the existing system of education and employment. The wide generation gap and imposition of values is evident in the fact that the average politician is in his or her sixties, and the current Prime Minister Naoto Kan is 74. In a highly competitive job market where learning fluent English is seen as one of the keys to success, more and more young Japanese people are studying abroad mainly in the United States. This means that some are developing more
The long-established equation between age and standing in a clearly defined hierarchy appears to be holding firm, and the relationship between the senpai (experienced) and kohai (inexperienced) is evident everywhere from college baseball teams to offices and factory hierarchies. Nonetheless, these structures are under scrutiny in economically uncertain times, and may belie a paradigmatic shift in the values and goals of young people questioning what it means to be Japanese. The case for ethnic diversification is evident throughout Japanese society. The UN predicts that Japan will reach an economic crisis point by 2050 where the non-working population will outnumber the working population. Initiatives such as the 1994 Japan-Philippines Economic Partnership Agreement suggest that Japan is seeking a solution by granting more 3 to 4 year stays for trained workers and caregivers, though it is still very reluctant to grant permanent residency. It is reasonable to equate Japan’s rapid post-war economic development to the 1990s with social solidarity and conformism. Despite labour shortages since the 1960s, authorities resisted officially sanctioning foreign workers until the 1980s, relying on increased mechanization and an expanded female workforce instead . Until recently, Japanese workers have associated themselves primarily with the company they work for – a businessman will introduce himself as ‘Nissan no Takahashisan’ (I am Nissan’s Mr Takahashi). By extension, we might get the idea that a Japanese person subordinates the self to the objectives of society.
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here can hardly be a western person who didn’t, as a child, make a paper airplane using folded newspaper or a sheet from a notebook. The more adventurous might have made a hat or, if they were lucky, might have been introduced to the almost limitless possibilities that origami and a creative mind can conjour up. These days, while some people consider it a real art form that is very Zen-like in its simplicity and depth, origami is regarded mainly as an activity for children, who are taught just a few standard designs. Even in Japan, the most complicated design that most people master is the tsuru (crane), which has developed into a worldwide symbol of children’s desire for peace. But origami has a long history and was originally not for children at all.
GAZAMIRANE PHOTO: ANDRE
Like many things in Japanese culture, origami (from “oru” meaning to fold, and “kami” meaning paper) has its origins in China. It is believed that paper was first made, and folded, in China in the first or second century. The earliest records of origami in Japan date to the Heian Period (794-1185). It was during this period that Japan’s nobility had its golden age and it was a time of great artistic and cultural advances. Paper was still a rare enough comodity that origami was a pastime for the elite. Paper was folded into set shapes for ceremonial occasions such as weddings. Serrated strips of white paper were used to mark sacred objects, a custom which can still be seen in every shrine to this day. It was in the Edo Period (1600-1868) that much of today’s popular traditional culture developed as forms of entertainment for the merchant classes and the common people. Kabuki and ukiyo-e are just two examples and origami also gained poularity. By the mid-19th century, 70 or more different designs had been created. But aside from its ceremonial use, its popularity has been in decline since the Meiji Period(1886-1912) and the modernization of Japan. In the mid-1950s, 11-year old Sasaki Sadako developed leukemia as a result of her exposure to radiation as a baby during the atomic bombing of Hiroshima in 1945. Tradition held that if you made a senbazuru (a thousand paper cranes) and made a wish after completing each one, your wish would come true. Sadako set about making the tsuru, wishing for her own recovery.
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You can fold
a simple quadrilateral paper
into any shape as you want
I wished
to fold the laws of
Nature the dignity of life...
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s she continued, she began to wish instead for world peace. One version of the story says that she died when she had made only 644 and her school friends completed the full number and dedicated them to her at her funeral. A perhaps more reliable version says she completed the 1,000 and went on the fold several hundred more before succumbing to the cancer at the age of 12. Regardless of the details, the story helped inspire the Children’s Peace Memorial in Hiroshima and a statue of Sadako in Seattle. Each year onPeace Day (August 6th), tens of thousands of origami tsuru are sent to Hiroshima by chidren all over the world. There are too many folding steps in making a tsuru for me to describe simply here and lots of sites already provide this and many other ideas.In more recent times, the Internet has helped spread the word about Japanese culture, both the long-hidden aspects and the things that western people had heard of but knew little about. Origami is one such facet that lends itself to the visual medium. Designs can be explained in line diagrams or photos and, with practice, can be mastered by anyone. The next step, as with any art form, is to find a topic or field that appeals and develop your own style. In the words of Yoshizawa Akira, the ‘acknowledged grandmaster of origami, the father of modern creative origami. Almost any laminar (flat) material can be used for folding; the only requirement is that it should hold a crease. Origami paper, often referred to as “kami” (Japanese for paper), is sold in prepackaged squares of various sizes ranging from 2.5 cm (1 in) to 25 cm (10 in) or more. It is commonly colored on one side and white on the other; however, dual coloured and patterned versions exist and can be used effectively for color-changed models. Origami paper weighs slightly less than copy paper, making it suitable for a wider range of models. Normal copy paper with weights of 70–90 g/m2 can be used for simple folds, such as the crane and waterbomb. Heavier weight papers of (19–24&nb 100 g/m2 (approx. 25 lb) or more can be wet-folded. This technique allows for a more rounded sculpting of the model, which becomes rigid and sturdy when it is dry.Foil-backed paper, as its name implies, is a sheet of
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thin foil glued to a sheet of thin paper. Related to this is tissue foil, which is made by gluing a thin piece of tissue paper to kitchen aluminium foil. A second piece of tissue can be glued onto the reverse side to produce a tissue/foil/Disney Princess tissue sandwich. Foil-backed paper is available commercially, but not tissue foil; it must be handmade. Both types of foil materials are suitable for complex models. Washi is the traditional origami paper used in Japan. Washi is generally tougher than ordinary paper made from wood pulp, and is used in many traditional arts. Washi is commonly made using fibres from the bark of the gampi tree, the mitsumata shrub (Edgeworthia papyrifera), or the paper mulberry but can also be made using bamboo, hemp, rice, and wheat. Artisan papers such as unryu, lokta, hanji, gampi, kozo, saa, and abaca have long fibres and are often extremely strong. As these papers are floppy to start with, they are often backcoated or resized with methylcellulose or wheat paste before folding. Also, these papers are extremely thin and compressible, allowing for thin, narrowed limbs as in the case of insect models.Paper money from various countries is also popular to create origami with; this is known variously as Dollar Origami, Orikane, and Money Origami. Technical origami, also known as origami sekkei, is a field of origami that has developed almost hand-in-hand with the field of mathematical origami. In the early days of origami, development of new designs was largely a mix of trial-anderror, luck and serendipity. With advances in origami mathematics however, the basic structure of a new origami model can be theoretically plotted out on paper before any actual folding even occurs. This method of origami design was developed by Robert Lang, Meguro Toshiyuki and others, and allows for the creation of extremely complex multilimbed models such as many-legged centipedes, human figures with a full complement of fingers and toes, and the like or dislike.
Previous page: Colorful Origami Cranes Above from left: White Origami crane, Origami cranes dress
The main starting point for such technical designs is the crease pattern (often abbreviated as CP), which is essentially the layout of the creases required to form the final model. Although not intended as a substitute for diagrams.crease patterns is starting to gain in popularity.
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L L A EY C
H T Y WH
WE
SUMO KIMBERLY PHOTO: ELLY TRAN
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umo is a competitive full-contact wrestling sport where a wrestler (rikishi) attempts to force another wrestler out of a circular ring (dohyō) or to touch the ground with anything other than the soles of the feet. The sport originated in Japan, the only country where it is practiced professionally. It is generally considered to be a gendai budō (a modern Japanese martial art), though this definition is incorrect as the sport has a history spanning many centuries. ofessional sumo is practiced exclusively in Japan, but wrestlers of other nationalities participate. There are currently 55 wrestlers officially listed as foreigners. In July 2007, there were 19 foreigners in the
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top two divisions, which was an all-time record, and for the first time, a majority of wrestlers in the top san’yaku ranks were from overseas. More recently, the ratio of foreigners has stabilized and as of November 2011 there were 18 foreigners in the two top divisions. A Japanese-American, Toyonishiki, and the Korean-born Rikidōzan achieved sekitori status prior to World War II, but neither were officially listed as foreigners. The first non-Asian to achieve fame and fortune in sumo was Hawaiiborn Takamiyama. He reached the top division in 1968 and in 1972 became the first foreigner to win the top division championship. He was followed by a fellow Hawaii-born mega-weight,
Konishiki of ethnic Samoan descent, the first foreigner to reach the rank of ōzeki in 1987; and the native Hawaiian Akebono, who became the first foreignborn yokozuna in 1993. Musashimaru, born in Samoa but from Hawaii, became the second foreigner to reach sumo’s top rank in 1999. The most recent yokozuna, Asashōryū and Hakuhō, are Mongolian. In 2012, the Mongolian Kyokutenhō became the oldest wrestler in modern history to win a top division championship. [10] Wrestlers from Eastern European countries such as Georgia and Russia have also found success in the upper levels of sumo. In 2005 Kotoōshū from Bulgaria became the first wrestler of European birth to attain the ōzeki ranking and the first to win a top division championship.
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Until relatively recently, the Japan Sumo Association had no restrictions at all on the number of foreigners allowed in professional sumo. In May 1992, shortly after the Ōshima stable had recruited six Mongolians at the same time, the Sumo Association's new director Dewanoumi, the former yokozuna Sadanoyama, announced that he was considering limiting the number of overseas recruits per stable and in sumo overall. There was no official ruling, but no stable recruited any foreigners for the next six years. This unofficial ban was then relaxed, but only two new foreigners per stable were allowed, until the total number reached 40. Then in 2002, a one foreigner per stable policy was officially adopted. (The ban was not retroactive, so foreigners recruited before the changes were unaffected). Though the move has been met with criticism, there are no plans to relax the restrictions at this time. Originally, it was possible for a place in a stable to open up if a foreign born wrestler acquired Japanese citizenship. This occurred when Hisanoumi changed his nationality from Tongan at the end of 2006, allowing another Tongan to enter his stable, and Kyokutenhō's change of citizenship allowed Ōshima stable to recruit Mongolian Kyokushuho in May. However, on February 23, 2010 the Sumo Association announced that it had changed its definition of "foreign" to "foreign”.Professional sumo is practiced exclusively in Japan, but wrestlers of other nationalities participate. There are currently 55 wrestlers officially listed as foreigners. In July 2007, there were 19 foreigners in the top two divisions, which was an all-time record, and for the first time, a majority of wrestlers in the top san’yaku ranks were from overseas. More recently, the ratio of foreigners has stabilized and as of November 2011 there were 18 foreigners. A Japanese-American, Toyonishiki, and the Korean-born Rikidōzan achieved sekitori status prior to World War II, but neither were officially listed as foreigners. The first non-Asian to achieve fame and fortune in sumo was Hawaiiborn Takamiyama. He reached the top division in 1968 and in 1972 became the first foreigner to win the top division championship. He was followed by a fellow Hawaii-born mega-weight, Konishiki of ethnic Samoan descent, the first foreigner to reach the rank of ōzeki in 1987; and the native Hawaiian Akebono, who became the first foreignborn yokozuna in 1993. Musashimaru, born in Samoa but from Hawaii, became the second foreigner to reach sumo’s top rank in 1999. The most recent yokozuna, Asashōryū and Hakuhō, are Mongolian. In
2012, the Mongolian Kyokutenhō became the oldest wrestler in modern history to win a top division championship. Wrestlers from Eastern European countries such as Georgia and Russia have also found success in the upper levels of sumo. In 2005 Kotoōshū from Bulgaria became the first wrestler of European birth to attain the ōzeki ranking and the first to win a top division championship. Until relatively recently, the Japan Sumo Association had no restrictions at all on the number of foreigners allowed in professional sumo. In May 1992, shortly after the Ōshima stable had recruited six Mongolians at the same time. the Sumo Association’s new director Dewanoumi, the former yokozuna Sadanoyama, announced that he was considering limiting the number of overseas recruits per stable and in sumo overal There was no official ruling, but no stable recruited any foreigners for the next six years. This unofficial ban was then relaxed, but only two new foreigners per stable were allowed, until the total number reached 40. Then in 2002, a one foreigner per stable policy was officially adopted. (The ban was not retroactive, so foreigners recruited before the changes .
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However, on February 23, 2010 the Sumo Association announced that it had changed its definition of "foreign" to "foreign-born" (gaikoku shusshin), meaning that even naturalized Japanese citizens will be considered as foreigners
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if they were born outside Japan. The restriction on one foreign wrestler per stable was also reconfirmed. There are certain match-ups that are prohibited in regular tournament play. Wrestlers who are from the same training stable cannot compete against each other, nor can wrestlers who are brothers, even if they join different stables. The one exception to this rule is that training stable partners and brothers can face each other in a championship-deciding playoff. match.
sphere of Japanese diaspora and athletes come from a variety of ethnic, cultural and sporting backgrounds.
Amateur sumo clubs are gaining in popularity in the United States, with competitions regularly being held in major cities across the country. The US Sumo Open, for example, was held in the Los Angeles Convention Centre in front of 3000. The sport has long been popular on the West Coast and in Hawai’i, where it has played a part in the festivals of the Japanese ethnic communities. Now, however, the sport has grown beyond the
The most notable of these to date is the Bulgarian Kotooshu, who is the highest ranking foreign wrestler who was formerly an amateur sumo athlete. It has been wellknown and accepted for many years that sumo stables engage in the systematic hazing and physical punishment of young disciples in order to “toughen them up”. Stable masters have often been proud to show to the media how they frequently use a shinai to beat.
Amateur sumo is particularly strong in Europe. Many athletes come to the sport from a background in judo, freestyle wrestling, or other grappling sports such as Sambo. Some Eastern European athletes have been successful enough to be scouted into professional sumo in Japan, much like their Japanese amateur.
Over the rest of Japanese recorded history, sumo's popularity has changed according to the whims of its rulers and the need for its use as a training tool in periods of civil strife.
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THE INVENTION OF RELIGION
IN
JAPAN KIMBERLY PHOTO: ELLY TRAN
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uddhism originated in India in the 6th century BC. It consists of the teachings of the Buddha, Gautama Siddhartha. Of the main branches of Buddhism, it is the Mahayana or “Greater Vehicle” Buddhism which found its way to Japan country side. Buddhism was imported to Japan via China and Korea in the form of a present from the friendly Korean kingdom of Kudara (Paikche) in the 6th century. While Buddhism was welcomed by the ruling nobles as Japan’s new state religion, it did not initially spread among the common people due to its complex theories. There were also a few initial conflicts with Shinto, Japan’s native religion. The two religions were soon able to co-exist and even complement each other. During the Nara Period, the great Buddhist monasteries in the capital Nara, such as Todaiji, gained strong political influence and were one of the reasons for the government to move the capital to Nagaoka in 784 and then
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to Kyoto in 794. Nevertheless, the problem of politically ambitious and militant monasteries remained a main issue for the governments over many centuries of Japanese history. During the early Heian Period, two new Buddhist sects were introduced from China: the Tendai sect in 805 by Saicho and the Shingon sect in 806 Kukai. More sects later branched off the Tendai sect. Among these, the most important ones are mentioned below: In 1175, the Jodo sect (Pure Land sect) was founded by Honen. It found followers different social classes since its theories were simple and based on the principle that everybody can achieve salvation by strongly believing in the Buddha Amida. In 1224, the Jodo-Shinshu (True Pure Land sect) was founded by Honen’s successor Shinran. The Jodo sects continue to have millions of followers today. In 1191, the Zen sect was introduced from China. Its complicated theories
were popular particularly among the members of the military class. According to Zen teachings, one can achieve self enlightenment through meditation and discipline. At present, Zen seems to enjoy a greater popularity overseas than within Japan. The Lotus Hokke or Nichiren sect, was founded by Nichiren in 1253. The sect was exceptional due to its intolerant stance towards other Buddhist sects. Nichiren Buddhism still has many millions of followers today, and several “new religions” are based on Nichiren’s teachings day and so many. Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi fought the militant Buddhist monasteries (especially the Jodo sects) at the end of the 16th century and practically extinguished Buddhist influence on the political sector. Buddhist institutions were attacked again in the early years of the Meiji Period, when the new Meiji government favored Shinto as the state religion and tried to separate and emancipate it from Buddhism.
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Previous page : Hiroshima pagoda in Spring Upside down from left: Dragon Chamber, Lady drinking water, Shiro Castles
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The Great Buddha of Kamakura (Kamakura Daibutsu) is a bronze statue of Amida Buddha, which stands on the grounds of Kotokuin Temple. With a height of 13.35 meters, it is the second tallest bronze Buddha statue in Japan, surpassed only by the statue in Nara’s Todaiji Temple. Opening Hours: 9:00am - 6:00pm Address: Ngong Ping, Lantua Island
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KOINOBORI
FOR CHILDREN. FOR DREAMS
HINAMATSURI TALES OF DOLLS
JIDAI
A MATSURI BY HISTORY
Join The crowds Be Colorful in
Style
YOSAKOI
COLORS OF HARAJUKU
TEA FESTIVAL IN SHIZUOKA
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KOINOBORI FOR CHILDREN
FOR DREAMS
GAZAMIRANE PHOTO: ANDRE
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Children’s Day ( Kodomo no Hi) is a Japanese national holiday which takes place annually on May 5, the fifth day of the fifth month, and is part of the Golden Week. It is a day set aside to respect children’s personalities and to celebrate their happiness.
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he day was originally called Tango no Sekku , and was celebrated on the 5th day of the 5th moon in the lunar calendar or Chinese calendar. After Japan’s switch to the Gregorian calendar, the date was moved to May 5. It was originally for boys but has since been changed to include both boys and girls. Sekku means a season’s festival (there are five sekku per year). Tango no Sekku marks the beginning of summer or the rainy season. Tan means “edge” or “first” and go means “noon”. Although it is not known precisely when this day started to be celebrated, it was probably during the reign of the Empress Suiko (593–628 A.D.). In Japan, Tango no Sekku was assigned to the fifth day of the fifth month after the Nara period. Until recently, Tango no Sekku was known as Boys’ Day (also known as Feast of Banners) while Girls’ Day (Hinamatsuri) was celebrated on March 3. In 1948, the government decreed this day to be a national holiday to celebrate the happiness of all children and to express gratitude toward mothers. It was renamed Kodomo no Hi.
The name of this day comes from Sakata no Kintoki whose childhood name was Kintarō. He was a great hero in the Heian period, a subordinate samurai of Minamoto no Raikou, having been famous for his strength when he was a child. It is said that Kintarō rode a bear, instead of a horse, and played with animals in the mountains when he was a young boy. So the legend. All Children and especially the Boys as well as the whole Family are looking forward to this day, wish is field with Family outings and activities as well as many preparations that need to be taken care of well ahead of this week.Such as the most important Koinobori, which is sort of a kite or kites that fly on a pole by each house and through out each town. Those kites are in shape of a Carp, (The large carp at the top represents the father, the second carp represents the eldest son, and additional carps are added to represent each subsequent son with colours and position denoting their relative age.) Each families raises the carp-shaped koinobori flags (carp due of the Chinese legend stating that a carps swims upstream becoming a dragon. The flags blowing in the wind look in deed like they are swim-
ming and some what like Dragons as well). One for each boy (or child) is put up, on display with a Kintarō doll, wish is usually riding on a large carp, and with the traditional Japanese military helmet, kabuto. Kintarō and the kabuto are both symbols of a strong and healthy boy. It is not known precisely when this day started to be celebrated, it was probably during the reign of the Empress Suiko (593–628 A.D.). The traditional food for this day is Mochi rice cakes wrapped in kashiwa (oak) leaves , Kashiwa-mochi (just like regular mochi, but it is also filled with red beans jam) and chimaki (a kind of “sweet rice paste,” wrapped in an iris or bamboo leaf). There is also a custom to take a shoubu-yu (a bath with floating shoubu leaves). Shoubu is a type of iris. It has long leaves that resemble swords. Why the bath with shoubu? It is because shoubu is believed to promote good health and to ward off evil. It is also hung under the eaves of homes to drive away evil spirits. “Shoubu also means, “martialism, warlike spirit”, when using different kanji characters.Raikou, having been famous for his strength when he was a child.
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HINAMATSURI TALES OF
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GAZAMIRANE PHOTO: ANDRE
The Japanese Doll Festival (Hina-matsuri), or Girls’ Day, is held on March 3. Platforms covered with a red carpet are used to display a set of ornamental dolls (hina-ningyō) representing the Emperor, Empress, attendants, and musicians in traditional court dress of the Heian period.
Right: The Queen doll. Next page clockwise from left: Lady with a drum doll, Hanging puppets, The Hinamatsuri dolls
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DOLLS
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ina Matsuri, held on the 3rd of March, is a festival for little girls. Its origins are in the seasonal event called “Jyoshi ” which means “the Day of the Serpent,” which occurs in early March. Eventually, in order to keep the date of the festival from changing, the date was later set to March Jyoshi’s origin goes back to around 300BC in ancient China. It was thought that there existed a malicious spirit which brought about misfortune between the changing of the seasons. Therefore people used to hold an event called “Gokusui” . in which they would purify themselves and exorcise evil spirits by setting cups to flow in a nearby river or stream. In short, this festival was held to purify and hope for the happiness of all people:, young and old, men and women. It is believed that the event was later brought to Japan by Japanese diplomats called “Kentoushi” . In ancient times, Japan also used to have this idea of purification through a purification vessel, called “Katashiro.” Thus, the Jyomi seasonal event was readily accepted by the Japanese and changed into a Japanese event called the “Jyoshi” festival. One of the types of vessels used in this festival were floating dolls called “Nagashi-bina,” which were made in the form of their owner from plant fibers. People would rub their doll to imbue any malicious spirits that were haunting them into it and let it be carried downstream. In some parts of Japan, people still practice this tradition, and the event has been developed to an elegant water festival. The customary drink for the festival is shirozake, a sake made from fermented rice. A colored hina-arare, bite-sized crackers flavored with sugar or soy sauce depending on the region, and hishimochi, a diamond-shaped colored rice cake, are served. Chirashizushi (sushi rice flavored with sugar, vinegar, topped with raw fish and a variety of ingredients) is often eaten. A salt-based soup called ushiojiru containing clams still in the shell is also served. Clam shells in food are deemed the symbol of a united and peaceful couple, because a pair of clam shells fits perfectly, and no pair but the original pair can do so. Families generally start to display the dolls in February and take them down immediately after the festival. Superstition says that leaving the dolls past March 4 will result in a late marriage for the daughter..
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uring the Heian era, playing with paper dolls was popular among noble children in the palace. It was called “Hina asobi (asobi means playing ). Hina is an old Japanese word that means means making big things smaller, or little tiny cute things. These dolls became related to the Jyohmi festival, and a pair of dolls (one boy, one girl) were created for the purification ceremony. As technology for making dolls developed, the dolls changed from floating dolls, to dolls used for decoration. As time passed, the Edo government created five seasonal festivals, one of which was the “Peach festival” on the 3rd of March. When May 5th was set as boys’ festival, Peach festival changed was changed to girls’ festival. Eventually, hina dolls became a symbol of wealth and power for houses that had a daughter. Showing the dolls to people was called “Hina awase,” and it started to become popular to visit and feast with relatives on the day called “Hina tsukai.” Eventually, as the common people became wealthier, Hina Matsuri became a big festival for praying for the happiness of their children. So, why did they start calling it the Peach Festival? In the old lunar calendar, the 3rd of March is the season of the peach, but that isn’t the only the reason that Hina Matsuri is also called the Peach festival. Long ago, it was believed that peaches could exorcize evil spirits, so it is often used in various rituals. Therefore, Hina Matsuri’s name changed from Jyoshi to “the peach” It is also believed that peaches are plants which are conductive to a long life and eternal youth. Even the word for “100 years old” has the word peach in it: “Momotose” . There also used to be a tradition to drink sake made from peaches. We’ve learned the history of Hina Matsuri, but how do we celebrate it in the modern day? There are many ways of celebrating it, depending on the household, and the local traditions. Some houses, especially those without little girls, don’t do anything special. Some houses will celebrate Hina Matsuri every year. Some houses display the dolls for months, while some of them don’t display them at all, or only a tiny one for short period. Houses which celebrate Hina Matsuri and display the dolls often take pictures of their daughter in front of the dolls. In school, children often get Hina-cracker, Chirashi-sushi, a soup with clams and cakes with little dolls on top of it for their school lunch. Yummy!
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KATSUURA GIRL’S FESTIVAL “BIG HINAMATSURI” “Hinamatsuri” was originally held in the hope that girls would grow up in peace. The girl’s parents will buy “hinaningyo” dolls set and decorate them in their home on Mar 3rd. After the girls grow up, they appreciate the dolls for peace. Our executive committee is collecting those disused dolls for the festival to decorate them again. I hope you can feel the Japanese tradition here.
“BIG HINAMATSURI” SCHEDULE Hinaningyo dolls display From February 19th to March 3rd KATSUURA Civic Hall 9am - 5pm TOMISAKI Shrine 8am - 7pm (light up from 5pm) KAKUOJI Temple 9am - 6:30pm (light up from 5pm) TONA Crossing 9am - 5pm (light up from 5pm) Namegawa school 9am - 5pm Katsuura city library 9am - 5pm *you can find the traditional dolls displayed everywhere in Katsuura city.
TRANSPORT Train: JR sotobou line, get off at Katsuura Sta. and 5min walk. Car: follow the Tateyama Highway, Get off at Ichihara I.C and ake Route 297. (70min from I.C)
EVENTS Febuary 19th: Opening ceremony at 9am at KAKUOUJII temple. Febuary 20th: Children march in procession at 11am. Japanese dancing parade.
SAKATA HINAMATSURI Sakata is the town which became the stage of “Departures”, the winning U.S. Academy Award foreign language Best Picture Award last year. In this town, hanging Hina dolls (Kasahuku) which has been succeeded more than 300 years are displayed. Furthermore, at the restaurant in the city, you can enjoy a meal and the dessert which imaged the Girl’s Festival. Period：2010.02.25～04.04 Transportation：130 minutes by JR Express train from Niigata Station Nearest hot spring：Atsumi Onsen（40 minutes by JR Express train）
KATSUURA BIG HINAMATSURI Katsuura is the fishing port town and famous as a morning market. At this time, the town is filled with more than 25,000 dolls and are decorated everywhere around main festival venue. The highlight is the 1200 Hina dolls displayed on 60 steps of stone stairway at Tomisaki Shrine. It is illuminated in the evening and at night. In addition, many events are held such as the parade of children and varieties of stores open. Period：2010.02.20～03.03 Transportation：90 minutes by JR Express train from Tokyo Station and get off at Katsuura Station. Nearest hot spring：Awa Kamogawa (30 minutes by JR train)
HIDA TAKAYAMA HINAMATSURI In Hida Takayama where coming of spring is slow, the Girl’s Festival is held on April 3, celebrated one month later. During the festival, the precious Hina dolls which people took good care for long time are displayed in the city and places at tourist attraction. It is a pleasure to walk round Takayama and see old rows of houses at this season. Period：2010.03.01～2010.04.03 Transportation：JR Takayama Station Nearest hot spring：Gero Onsen（40 minutes by JR Express train）
TOKUSHIMA BIG HINAMATSURI This period, the town is decorated with Hina dolls. Particularly, it is the Japan’s most splendid decoration which exhibits 30,000 Hina dolls on 100 tiered stand of pyramids type. This year, the dolls are lighted up by LED and create the fantastic world. In addition, the sales of the special local products and the event of Awa Folk Dance are held. Period：2010.02.21～03.21 Transportation：60 minutes by bus from JR Tokushima Station to Katsuura)
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ALSO CALLED THE MATSURI Festival of the Ages is a traditional Japanese festival held on October 22 annually in Kyoto, Japan. It is one of Kyoto’s renowned three great festivals.
GAZAMIRANE PHOTO: ANDRE
BY
HISTORY
It is a festival enjoyed by people of all ages, participating in its historical reenactment parade dressed in authentic costumes representing various periods, and characters in Japanese feudal history.
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n October 22nd every year a huge spectacular procession winds its way through the streets of Kyoto. Over 2000 people, as well as numerous horses and a few oxen, march from Kyoto’s Imperial Palace along a 4.5km path to the Heian Shrine. These 2000 or so people are all decked out in traditional garb from colorful periods of Japanese history. While there are festivals like this held throughout Japan there are none to compare to this one. It is the biggest and most famous festival of its kind and somehow the English name for the festival is more dramatic than the Japanese. In Japanese it is called Jidai Matsuri which literally translates as Period Festival but in English it is known as the Festival of the Ages. This magnificent festival was first held in 1895 although it was a much smaller affair back then. At the first festival the parade
consisted of just 6 sections but that has grown progressively larger over the last few years and now boasts of over 2000 costumed citizens taking to the streets to illustrate Japan’s, and specifically Kyoto’s, grand history. Kyoto’s Jidai Matsuri is not just a bunch of people dressed up in period costumes but, in fact, it is a highly structured, highly organized event with a painstaking amount of attention paid to details. The schedule is as precise as a rush hour train in Tokyo and the parade proceeds in reverse chronological order from the Meiji Era (1868-1912) to the Heian Era (794-1185). The clothes have been meticulously recreated and serve as a history lesson as well as being beautiful to look at. The colors of the costumes are stunning and faithful to their respective periods. Not only are the clothes faithful to the times they represented but the footwear and even the hairstyles are reproduced to great effect.
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Previous page clockwise from left: Jidai participants. Above from left: Lady Tanee, Samurai knight, Seven lucky Goddess, Old man.
And it is certainly not just about historical fashion; you will also see a wide range of deadly weapons including the traditional Japanese style bows and arrows of the yabusame (horseback archers) to incredibly long handled samurai swords to the rifles of the more modern Meiji Era. There is a wide age-range participating in this event, some of whom appear to be of retirement age while others appear to be mere boys. It is hard to ponder today’s fresh faced college students would have been hardened warriors back then though. On October 22nd, 794 Emperor Kammu entered Kyoto, which was then known as Heian-kyo, and established it as Japan’s capital which it remained almost without interruption for more than one thousand years. In 1895, after the capital was moved to Tokyo, the Heian Jingu shrine was built and the first Jidai Matsuri was held. It was a relatively small affair back then but it grew steadily over the years, with a small break during the post-World War II recovery period, into the huge prestigious festival of today. In fact, a smaller modified version of the Jidai Matsuri was once even held in Paris to much fanfare. Can you imagine those samurai warriors marching along the Champs Elysees? Along with the Gion Matsuri and the Aoi Matsuri, the
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Jidai Matsuri is one of the three big festivals held each year in Kyoto, all of which attract hordes of sightseers. Despite the popularity of this festival and the massive influx of snap-happy tourists, the wide streets and open parks of Kyoto make it make it much more accessible and easier to enjoy than similar festivals in Tokyo. The weather too, plays an important role in the enjoyment of the Jidai Matsuri. Kyoto is renowned for its extreme temperatures. Some claim that due to Kyoto’s location in a natural basin, their summer is the hottest in Japan and their winter the coldest. At the end of October though, the last of the summer heat is fading and the winter chill has yet to set in. In other words, it is the perfect time for a festival. The parade kicks off from Kyoto Imperial Palace at 12:00pm on the dot but if you show up a bit early you can see the participants coming in early to prepare themselves. If you want to sit in the prime reserved area it is also advisable to arrive early to get the best seats. If you are not one for sitting around waiting for the action though there are plenty of good viewing spots along the route. Give yourself at least 2 hours to see the entire parade. When the parade is drawing to a close near the Heian Jingu the sight of horse mounted samurai slowly and elegantly walking along the wide tree-lined boulevard and under the giant red torii is Kyoto is, without a doubt, the most historical city in Japan and with 17 World Heritage sites resulting in it being been declared a World Heritage City by UNESCO. So when the festival is over and the city has returned to normal there is still plenty to do. Besides the Imperial Palace where the Jidai Matsuri commences and the Heian Jingu where it finishes up, there is Nijo Castle, Kinkakuji, Ginkakuji (Golden Pavilion) and Kiyomizu-dera which are Kyoto’s most well-known tourist attractions. And if that is not enough, there are literally hundreds of historical sites both on and off the beaten track just waiting for your visit. And if you want to avoid the
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crowds that come to view the autumn leaves in the coming weeks then this is the perfect time to check them out. A trip to Kyoto wouldn’t be complete without indulging in some of the local cuisine. The people of Kyoto are very proud of their cooking and claim that even the cup noodles taste better than those from other regions of Japan. And before you leave Kyoto be sure to pick up some of their famous yatsuhashi, it is a delicious ricebased soft snack and comes in a variety of flavors. If you don’t end up eating them all yourself they make great gifts for your friends and family back home.
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GAZAMIRANE PHOTO: ANDRE
Although the Harajuku Omotesando Genki Matsuri festival is one of the largest dance festival organized in Tokyo during that season, what makes it truly special is the actual type of dancing that is being performed, the Yosakoi. Compared to other traditional summer dances, the origin of Yosakoi is a lot more recent and it is therefore a lot more influenced by pop culture.
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Origins and nature of Yosakoi The Yosakoi Naruko Dance festival first took place in 1954 in the Kochi Prefecture on the island of Shikoku. It was largely inspired by the Awa odori, a traditional dance also originating from Shikoku (Tokushima Prefecture). The specificity of Yosakoi is its highly energetic choreographies performed upon upbeat, high tempo songs whose arrangements borrow as much from pop songs as they do from more traditional tunes. Yosakoi dancers usually use a pair of naruko, small wooden clappers originally used to scares crows away from crop fields. The relative freedom that Yosaki has compared to more traditional dances results in a great diversity in music styles, moves, and costumes displayed by each team of dancers. Some can even be based on movie, manga, music, or even commercial characters. The teams can include a great number f dancers and the average age usually young. Musically, even though the styles are free, the songs must include some parts of the original Yosakoi Naruko Dancing song written by Takemasa Eisaku, but this end up not being a difficult requirement and much creativity can be expressed. This freedom is likely to be the reason why so many young people have an interest in Yosakoi. A Yosakoi performance can be given on a stage, but originally, just like the Awa odori, Yosakoi is a marching dance. Teams are often led by a vividly decorated truck mounted with a sound system delivering the songs upon which the dancers will performed. These trucks also often include some singers that accompany the melody or simply cheer their team.
The Harajuku Yosakoi festival
Above clock wise from left: Yosakoi red team members participated in Harajuku Big Yosakoi 2012
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Genki in Japanese means enthusiastic and energetic. Yosakoi dancers are certainly that. The festival runs over a full weekend, with teams dancing all day, succeeding to each other on the various stages located in Meiji-jingu, Harajuku station, and Yoyogi koen. In addition to that, on the Sunday, the dancers also perform the nagashi odori, the marching version of their choreographies on the street that links Omotesando station to Harajuku crossing that has been closed for the occasion. The festival welcomes over 6,000 dancers in more than 100 teams coming from all over Japan.
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Every team has their own unique costume containing bright, eye-catching colours. Usually performers wear “Happi” coats and “yukata”. Sometimes you will see groups wearing costumes based on Japan history or popular trends. Usually, all the members wear the same costume and it is an impressive sight to behold when everyone is dancing simultaneously in time with the music. Each dancer in the group also uses small wooden clappers called “naruko” in their performance. They were originally used to scare birds away from rice fields in Kochi Prefecture. The traditional “naruko” has yellow and black beaters, but most yosakoi groups create their own to match their costumes. These wooden clappers must be used in the performance but groups also use other instruments or props as part of their acts such as drums, flags. The two basic rules state that the participating teams have to use Yosakoi Naruko Odori Uta, or the dancing song, which is based on “Yosakoi Bushi,” the traditional local folk tunes and that all the dancers have to perform while holding clappers, which make a sound similar to castanets. Teams are free to wear whatever costumes they like and any style of dancing is allowed. Participants always come up with new ideas and every year each team displays great originality. Young people have begun supplementing the traditional ways of playing the music, and in recent years live performances by rock bands have become popular among young dancers. Spectators can enjoy a variety of colorful
costumes and music that is presented not only in traditional arrangements, but also spiced with rock, samba, or reggae. Originally, Yosakoi dance emerged in Kōchi prefecture on the island of Shikoku. The Origin of Yosakoi is still a mystery, but since the Chamber of Commerce in Kōchi held the first Yosakoi festival in 1951, the popularity has been disseminated and it is recognized nationwide today. The reason for the relatively fast spread of Yosakoi throughout Japan was that it was often used as a means to revitalize a town. Local sponsors of Yosakoi do not have to drop big bucks whereas a standard festival that is usually held by a local shopping district risks no return on investment. Since
including groups from the mecca of Yosakoi. There are several teams from Machida: Zokkon Machida ’98, for example, is one of the highlights of the festival; the team has attained popularity in Kōchi, by winning the Yosakoi festival there. This year, they are going to represent a fascinating dance in Kabuki style, with the theme of one of Machida’s local legends in Nanakuniyama, that involves a Tengu (a mystical creature that has a long nose and uses magic). There will be three chances for you to witness Yosakoi. They all take place on November 14th, but the location will move depending on the time of day. However, the main event will be on HaraMachida Ōdōri (a big street right next to the 109 building) from 11:30 to 16:30. Let’s all participate in the revitalization of Machida City.
Yosakoi’s main focus is on dance, promoters do not have to pay a lot to present, but they will surely gain a number of customers who come to watch the dance. Machida is a good example, taking this approach for both the renaissance of commerce. Modern Yosakoi festivals all over Japan are nothing like the ones from the 1950s. The original and traditional Yosakoi features a traditional Japanese dance called nichibu. However, nowadays, if you can follow certain rules, a piece of music that will promote your team’s local area can be arranged to be used, such as hiphop, rap, samba, and more. Dancers carry instruments called naruko (basically Japanese castanets) to heighten the dynamics of the beat, and each team has very unique costumes so that viewers never get bored. There will be 40 teams in the Machida Yumemai Kissui Matsuri,
Address or Location Kochi City, Kochi Prefecture Phone: 088-875-1178 Fax: 088-873-0572 URL: http://www.cciweb. kochi/yosak oi/yosakoi Transportation: Approx. 30 min by car from Kochi Ryoma Airport. A 15-min walk from Kochi Station. A 1-min walk from the Sakai-machi bus stop on the Tosaden Bus route. Approx. 10 min by car from the Kochi Interchange.
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SHIZUOKA KIMBERLY PHOTO: ELLY TRAN
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On the way to clean a formerly abandoned house (a common sight in some areas of rural Japan), we passed a number of abandoned tea fields. The abandoned plants were often as tall as wild Chinese tea trees, but they looked wiry and weak.
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Last spring Samovar Ambassador Lindsey Goodwin visited our friend Ayumi Kinezuka, organic tea farmer in Shizuoka, Japan. Here, Lindsey shares her experiences and the impact of participating in an annual tea festival held by Ayumi’s farming community.
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n May, I visited some friends of Samovar – a family of tea producers with connections to the Bay Area – in the mountains of Shizuoka, Japan. During my time there, I sampled seasonal delicacies, participated in a “tea festival” and sensed community. The Shizuoka mountain landscape As we rode high into the mountains of Shizuoka discussing food politics with two other passengers (both agriculture grad students at a university just outside Tokyo), it was clear that I would learn about far more than tea during this visit. I was being immersed in a larger movement that mirrors the Bay Area’s own food movement in some ways, yet is distinctly tied to Japanese traditions. Tempura-fried wild-harvested herbs “You can’t find these in the cities,” Ayumi said. She explained that part of her goal in promoting organic farming is to expose people to wild-harvested, local and
Previous page: Tea farm Clockwise from left: Japanese Tea pot, Tea pot, Prepare before drinking Next page from left: Traditional Tea, Geisha Tea
seasonal foods that are not to be found in grocery stores, or are only available if massproduced into flavorlessness. Good food is certainly important for humankind, but another part of Ayumi’s goal is even more essential to the human experience – it is to help people experience joy through a connection to the land. Combining her experience with farming and psychology, Ayumi noted that when people (especially children) are in nature, they are happier; they forget about the stresses of city life and get back to the basics of human activity and connection. On the way to clean a formerly abandoned house (a common sight in some areas of rural Japan), we passed a number of abandoned tea fields. The abandoned plants were often as tall as wild Chinese tea trees, but they looked wiry and weak. Because they were bush-style tea plants, they lacked the core trunk that supports tree-style tea plants, and the more they grew, the less healthy they became. Ayumi told me that abandoned tea bushes begin to choke out the sunlight they need to thrive after a few years of growing untended, and that many of the overgrown plants I saw would need to be torn out and replaced before the land could be farmed again. Although it was a devastating reminder of the flight of young people out of farmland and into the cities, Ayumi remained positive getting young people interested in farming was, after all, part of the intention of the tea farmers’ festival.
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second day of the Tea festival
On the
the weather abruptly shifted from dreary to ...
..bright and sunny...
“ the next few hours. In informal workshops, groups learned to make soba noodles from scratch and to make sencha by hand. Children played gleefully outdoors and then moved to the porch to avoid the off-and-on drizzling rain. Laughter and tempting aromas emanated from the kitchen, where a group of women bonded as they cooked. Outside under a tent, some of the men roasted a wild boar, which they would later chop up, blend with rice and vegetables, stuff into bamboo stalks, and then smoke over a large grill. Then, finally, it was time for the feast. As a cornucopia of foods was laid out on long, communal tables and lively conversations swelled amongst the
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group, it became abundantly clear why people had traveled from far and wide to attend. Over bamboo-roasted sake, tempura-fried herbs, homemade miso soup, bamboo rice, free-range chicken, sencha, and other traditional, seasonal and hyper-local delicacies, people let go of the usual inhibitions associated with polite Japanese conversation. There were introductions all around, complete with a microphone. Late into the night, people talked about food and food politics, love and life, and cultural differences and overlaps. With the help of a few translators, I found myself bonding with a charming older woman who owned a small tea farm near Tokyo, a
businessman with a good sense of humor and many questions about American business customs, and an international crew of students and teachers. Despite the size of the group, which neared 100 people, it was an intimate gathering that fostered spontaneous and sincere interactions. The tea, the food and the sake were the obvious spoils of the event, but they were also the catalysts for what made it so successful year after year – the human connections formed there. On the second day of the tea festival, the weather abruptly shifted from dreary to bright and sunny. Over koucha (black tea) that was processed in the Kinezukas’ factory, Ayumi told me that abrupt
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weather changes were a recent phenomenon, and a sign of climate change. However, I can’t profess to have minded much at the time – the sound of the wind in the trees and the frogs alongside the nearby stream, the sight of the steam rising off of the Kinezukas’ rice paddies and the feel of the warm morning sun on my skin was one of the most tranquil and beautiful moments I have yet to experience. Full from the morning meal, we hopped into Jeeps for a hike up a mountainside. After a steep ascent by car and a steeper ascent by foot, we reached one of the many organic farms that were interspersed amongst dense forests. There, we plucked leaves from the Yakibuta (“North of the Bamboo Forest”) varietal of tea plant that is common in Japan. As we harvested, I talked with an elderly farmer whose children had given up on farming, as well as a young woman who lived in Tokyo and wanted to move to the countryside. After some time, we collected our leaves inside a sheet and sat down on thick quilts for a bento picnic. As people chatted, I realized why every one of us was smiling – for two days, all we had done was prepare and eat food, drink tea and sake, experience nature and connect with other people. With no cell phones, WiFi or deadlines to distract us, we could let go of the stresses of daily life and to get back to some of the things that truly bring us joy. During the hike back down to the Jeeps, I chatted with a Tokyo-based architecture student from Brazil
After the herb s had been harvested, the women of the group has skillfully prepare a portion of the foodand the once-abandoned house had been cleaned for visitors, the farmers were ready to begin the festival. and an organic farmer/macrobiotic chef/laughter yoga instructor from Tokyo. It dawned on me that a few passionate advocates for tea and organic farming had brought together an unlikely group of people with this event, and that each attendee would leave with a newfound perspective on tea, traditional food culture and organic food production. Then, rather suddenly, it was time to leave. We rode back to the formerly abandoned house in which we had shared meals together, and then people left in small groups, returning to cities and to other farms. In the days following the event, I rode horseback with Ayumi’s brother, picked strawberries with Ayumi and her sister, harvested wild bamboo shoots at dawn, interviewed tea producers, visited a local tea museum and ate one of the most fantastic meals.However, the most vibrant memory of my visit to the farm is the sense of community surrounding the tea festival. A week after leaving Shizuoka, I met with two other attendees of the tea festival in Tokyo, and it seemed that each had carried his experiences of the event into the world in a different way. It is my hope that by sharing this experience, I can convey the strength of Ayumi’s vision of societal wellness through a connection to the land and the most basic of human endeavors – partaking in the simple joys of nature, good company and good food.
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APANESE
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SAKE
WHY DONT’T YOU DRINK MORE
MOCHI STICKY
SUSHI
TRADITIONAL CUISINE
TEA
THE ORIGINAL
RESTAURANTS THE BEST IN JAPAN
and
Taste The Delicious
Original flavors
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DRINK WHY SAKE? DONT’T YOU
MORE
KIMBERLY PHOTO: ELLY TRAN
Sake is sometimes referred to in English-speaking countries as rice wine. However, unlike wine, in which alcohol is produced by fermenting sugar that is naturally present in grapes and other fruits.
S
idel has an extensive trade background in spirits and beer, but decided a few years ago to devote his energies to sake. Although we tasted several great drinks (my favorites were those brewed by Chikurin and Watari Bune) and went through sake production (a necessity, still), I was much more interested in how the consumption of sake can grow beyond the coterie of people who like sushi and sashimi or who have a fetish for small ceramic cups.
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Sake
produced
is by means of a brewing process
more like that of beer
Does sake need to be Westernized - for example, not drunk from small ceramic cups and paired only with Japanese food - to become successful, or is “being different” a neccesary part of it’s charm, which, if abandoned, would mean less acceptance? Does your everyday consumer - the same one who doesn’t care about whether her Chardonnay went through malolactic fermentation - need to know the intricacies of what grains are used for sake and how it is made? In restaurants, would sake be more successful if it were simply sold by the glass say two different styles on the bar list? Along the same line, does offering sake only by the bottle (even a small one), as is now generally done, psychologically ask the consumer for a commitment when by the glass would allow merely a passing curiosity?
I will save for future articles what Sidel has to say on these topics, but here are some questions I posed to him. I would like to know what you think, whether or not you’re a regular sake drinker. And would it be appreciated more if there were a Riedel glass designed for it? Seriously? How can retail stores better display bottles of sake so that they don’t look as disorganized as roadside accident memorials? Are sommeliers willing to suggest a bottle of Watari Bune Junmai Ginjo with duck breast (which would be a good pairing) rather than a wine? i think you can answer it. Knowing that most good sakes are served chilled, would you rather have a mug of very warm and basic futsu-shu sake on a cold day than an Irish coffee or mulled cider? Is warm
sake neccessary bad or gauche?In restaurants, would sake be more successful if it were simply sold by the glass - say two different styles on the bar list? A variation of an early question: if the 6-10 different styles, or combos of styles, have recognizable similarities of taste, will people be willing to remember such basic categories as honjozo, ginjo and junmai ginjo, which are also easy to pronounce? We are used to drinking wines with meals more than other alcoholic beverages. Sake can be a little more alcoholic, so are we willing to “sip” as we eat
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“ STICK A JAPAN DESSER KIMBERLY PHOTO: ELLY TRAN
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Fresh mochi can be enjoyed immediately, dipped in soy sauce and sugar or coated with toasted soy bean powder. It is also formed into a variety of confections and sweets.
M
ochi is made with glutinous rice (Oryza sativa var. Glutinosa or Oryza glutinosa); also called sticky rice, sweet rice, waxy rice, botan rice, mochi rice, and pearl rice, type of short-grained Asian rice that is especially sticky when cooked. The rice is cooked and then pounded it in a stone or wooden mortar, called an usu, until it becomes a soft, chewy paste. Modern mochi is also made by machine, but it is claimed that mochi pounded in an usu tastes better than mochi that has been processed by an electric machine. The pounding method is still frequently used in traditional Japanese restaurants and confectionaries, and Fresh mochi can be enjoyed immediately, dipped in soy sauce and sugar or coated with toasted soy bean powder. It is also formed into a variety of confections and sweets. Shaped into rectangles or circles, it hardens as it is cured and can then be cooked with red beans, vegetables or soups, or toasted on top of a stove. Toasted mochi inflates to several times its original size, forming a crisp crust with a sof, and is especially popular in cold weather. Japan and Korea both have similar pounded glutinous rice foods, known as mochi and teok, respectively. The exact origin of mochi is unknown, though it is said to have come from China. The cakes of pounded glutinous rice appear to have become a New Year’s treat during Japan’s Heian period (794-1185). As early as the tenth century, various kinds of mochi were used as imperial offerings at religious
ceremonies. A dictionary dating from before 1070 calls the rice cake “mochi” Around the eighteenth century, people began to call it “mochi” Various theories explain the name. One is that “mochi” came from the verb “motsu” “to hold or to have,” signifying that mochi is food given by God. People of the west and southwest islands called it “muchimi”, meaning “stickiness”. Chimaki, a sweet mochi cake wrapped in a bamboo leaf, eaten especially on the Kodomo no hi Festival on May 5. A match-box sized piece of mochi has the same caloric content as a bowl of rice. Japanese farmers are said to eat mochi on cold winter days to increase their stamina. Samurai took mochi to the battlefield because it was easy to carry and to prepare. The sound of samurai pounding mochi was a sign that they were about to go into battle. Similar foods in other cultures. Two layers of nian gao with a filling of sweet red bean paste. Rice cakes of various types are found in China, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, and the Philippines. All are made using glutinous rice, pounded or ground into a paste or powder, and molded into shapes or cooked again to create various confections. There are many varieties of Chinese nian gao, made from a batter of uncooked glutinous rice flour, including the types found in Shanghai cuisine, and Cantonese cuisine originating from Guangdong. During the Chinese New Year, nian gao is also widely consumed in the Philippines, a tradition originating from the country’s large
population of overseas Chinese from the Guangdong region. Nian gao is known as tikoy in the Philippines. In Philippine cuisine, called palitao in Tagalog, is coated with sesame seeds and grated coconut. Kagami mochI, literally mirror rice cake, is a traditional Japanese New Year decoration, consisting of two round mochi cakes, the smaller placed atop the larger, with a daidai with an attached leaf set on top. In addition, it may have a sheet of konbu and a skewer of dried persimmons under the mochi. The kagami mochi sits on a stand called a sanpō over a sheet called a shihōbeni, which is supposed to ward off fires from the house for the following years. Sheets of paper called gohei folded into lightning shapes similar to those seen on sumo wrestler’s belts are also attached. The kagami mochi first appeared in the Muromachi period (fourteenthsixteenth century). The name kagami (“mirror”) is said to have originated from its resemblance to an old-fashioned kind of round copper mirror, which also had a religious significance. The two mochi discs are variously said to symbolize the going and coming years, the human heart, “yin” and “yang” or the moon and the sun. The “daidai” whose name means “generations”, is said to symbolize the continuation of a family from generation to generation.In some regions, three layered kagami mochi are used. There is also a variant with three layers of mochi, called an okudokazari, which is placed in the centre of the kitchen or by the window.
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Fresh mochi can be enjoyed immediately, dipped in soy sauce and sugar or coated with toasted soy bean powder. It is also formed into a variety of confections and sweets. Shaped into rectangles or circles, it hardens as it is cured and can then be cooked with red beans, vegetables or soups, or toasted on top of a stove. Toasted mochi inflates to several times its original size, forming a crisp crust with a sof, and is especially popular in cold weather. Japan and Korea both have similar pounded glutinous rice foods, known as mochi and teok, respectively. The exact origin of mochi is unknown, though it is said to have come from China. The cakes of pounded glutinous rice appear to have become a New Year’s treat during Japan’s Heian period (794-1185). As early as the tenth century, various kinds of mochi were used as imperial offerings at religious ceremonies. A dictionary dating from before 1070 calls the rice cake “mochi” Around the eighteenth century, people began to call it “mochi” Various theories explain the name. One is that “mochi” came from the verb “motsu” “to hold or to have,” signifying that mochi is food given by God. People of the west and southwest islands called it “muchimi”, meaning “stickiness”. Chimaki, a sweet mochi cake wrapped in a bamboo leaf, eaten especially on the Kodomo no hi Festival on May 5. A match-box sized piece of mochi has the same caloric content as a bowl of rice. Japanese farmers are said to eat mochi on cold winter days to increase their stamina. Samurai took mochi to the battlefield
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because it was easy to carry and to prepare. The sound of samurai pounding mochi was a sign that they were about to go into battle. Similar foods in other cultures. Two layers of nian gao with a filling of sweet red bean paste. Rice cakes of various types are found in China, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, and the Philippines. All are made using glutinous rice, pounded or ground into a paste or powder, and molded into shapes or cooked again to create various confections. There are many varieties of Chinese nian gao, made from a batter of uncooked glutinous rice flour, including the types found in Shanghai cuisine, and Cantonese cuisine originating from Guangdong. During the Chinese New Year, nian gao is also widely consumed in the Philippines, a tradition originating from the country’s large population of overseas Chinese from the Guangdong region. Nian gao is known as tikoy in the Philippines. In Philippine cuisine, called palitao in Tagalog, is coated with sesame seeds and grated coconut. Kagami mochI, literally mirror rice cake, is a traditional Japanese New Year decoration, consisting of two round mochi cakes, the smaller placed atop the larger, with a daidai with an attached leaf set on top. In addition, it may have a sheet of konbu and a skewer of dried persimmons under the mochi. The kagami mochi sits on a stand called a sanpō over a sheet called a shihōbeni, which is supposed to ward off fires from the house for the following years. Sheets of paper called gohei folded into lightning shapes similar to those seen on sumo wrestler’s
belts are also attached. The kagami mochi first appeared in the Muromachi period (fourteenth-sixteenth century). The name kagami (“mirror”) is said to have originated from its resemblance to an old-fashioned kind of round copper mirror, which also had a religious significance. The two mochi discs are variously said to symbolize the going and coming years, the human heart, “yin” and “yang” or the moon and the sun. The “daidai” whose name means “generations”, is said to symbolize the continuation of a family from generation to generation.In some regions, three layered kagami mochi are used. There is also a variant with three layers of mochi, called an okudokazari, which is placed in the centre of the kitchen or by the window. Traditionally the kagami mochi was placed in various locations throughout the house at New Years’. Today it is usually placed in a household Shinto altar, or kamidana. It can also be placed in the tokonoma, a small decorated alcove in the main room. Contemporary kagami mochi are often premolded into the shape of stacked discs and sold in plastic packages in the supermarket. A mikan or a plastic imitation daidai is often substituted for the original daidai. The kagami mochi is traditionally broken and eaten in a Shinto ritual called kagami biraki (Mirror Opening) on the second Saturday or Sunday of January. The mochi cakes are cut into small pieces and boiled with vegetables or red beans. First adopted into Japanese martial arts by Jigoro Kano, the founder of judo.
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SUSHI TRADITIONAL CUISINE OF JAPAN KIMBERLY PHOTO: ELLY TRAN
The original type of sushi, known today as nare-zushi, was first developed in Southeast Asia and spread to south China before introduced to Japan sometime around the 8th century.
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he Japanese preferred to eat fish with rice, known as namanare or namanari. During the Muromachi period namanare was the most popular type of sushi. Namanare was partly raw fish wrapped in rice, consumed fresh, before it changed flavor. This new way of consuming fish was no longer a form of preservation but rather a new dish in Japanese cuisine. During the Edo period, a third type of sushi was introduced, haya-zushi. Haya-zushi was assembled so that both rice and fish could be consumed at the same time, and the dish became unique to Japanese culture. It was the first time that rice was not being used for fermentation. Rice was now mixed with vinegar, with fish, vegetables and dried foodstuff added. This type of sushi is still very popular today. Each region utilizes local flavors to produce a variety of sushi that has been passed down for many generations.
as “sushi” (nigirizushi; Kantō variety) is a fast food invented by Hanaya Yohei) at the end of Edo period in today’s Tokyo (Edo). People in Tokyo were living in haste even a hundred years ago. The nigirizushi invented was not fermented and could be eaten using the fingers or chopsticks. It was an early form of fast food that could be eaten in public or in the theater. Funazushi is a rare type of nare-zushi still prepared near Lake Biwa, Shiga Prefecture. Eighteen generations of the Kitamura family have been preparing the dish at Kitashina since 1619. Fresh funa are scaled and gutted through their gills keeping the body (and often the roe) of the fish intact. The fish are then packed with salt and aged for a year before being repacked annually in rice for up to four years. The resulting fermented dish may be served sliced thin or used as an ingredient in other dishes.
When Tokyo was still known as Edo in the early 19th century, mobile food stalls run by street vendors became popular. During this period nigiri-zushi was introduced, consisting of an oblong mound of rice with a slice of fish draped over it. After the Great Kanto earthquake in 1923, nigirisushi chefs were displaced from Edo throughout Japan, popularizing the dish throughout the country.
The authentic funazushi is made from one particular species called nigorobuna (Carassius auratus grandoculis) unique to the lake. It is thus quite misleading to say “crucian carp” is used, as if any old funa type carp in the genus may be randomly used (or the European species may be used). It is true that due to reduced catch in recent years, certain native species are starting to be substituted. Appearances in the West
Today the sushi dish internationally known
The Oxford English Dictionary notes the
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earliest written mention of sushi in an 1893 book, Japanese Interiors, where it mentions that “Domestics served us with tea and sushi or rice sandwiches”. However, there is also mention of sushi in a Japanese-English dictionary from 1873, and an 1879 article on Japanese cookery in the journal Notes and Queries. A report of sushi being consumed in Britain occurred when the then Prince Akihito (born 1933) visited Queen
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SUSHI’S RESTAURANTS IN JAPAN Ginza Kyuubei The most famous and reputable sushi restaurant in Japan. Sukiyabashi Jiro Their excellence of sushi making is often reputed by everyone. Asakusa Benten Well reserved sushi style of ‘Edo-mae’ is served. Aoki Relatively new but serves good sushi. Karaku Good Edo-mae style sushi is served. Yoshino-zushi Honten A long-established restaurant of Edo-mae style. Izuu Famous for Saba-oshi-zushi (pressed mackerel sushi), established in 1781.
Clockwise from left: Avocado sushi, Cavia Sushi, Traditional Sushi, Fillet Sushi
Elizabeth II during her Coronation in May 1953. In America in September 1953, Prince Akihito is noted with serving sushi at the Japanese Embassy in Washington, hosted by Ambassador Eikichi Araki. The earliest reference to sushi in Japan appeared in 718 in the Yōrō Code. However, there is no way to know. For almost the next 800 years, until the early 19th century, sushi slowly changed and the Japanese cuisine changed as well.
The Japanese started eating three meals a day, rice was boiled instead of steamed, and most important of all, rice vinegar was invented. While sushi continued to be produced by fermentation of fish with rice, the time of fermentation was gradually decreased and the rice used began to be eaten along with the fish. In the Muromachi Period, the process of producing Oshizushi was gradually developed where in the fermentation process was abandoned and vinegar.
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ORIGINAL CEREMONY
TEA KIMBERLY PHOTO: ELLY TRAN
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Introduction To Japanese Tea Nowadays, the tea ceremony is a relatively popular hobby. Tea ceremonies are held in traditional Japanese rooms in cultural community centres or private housesThe ceremony itself consists of many rituals that have to be learned by heart. Almost each hand movement is prescribed. Basically, the tea is first prepared by the host, and then drunk by the guests. The tea is matcha green tea made of powdered tea leaves. Powdered tea, or macha, and green tea both came from China. People began drinking tea in China some 2,000 years ago.In Chinese myth, early inhabitants searched in the mountains for medicines and were poisoned by 72 kinds of plants. But in the end, their lives were saved by drinking tea. From then on, people continued drinking the tea as medicine.In the Heian period, tea was introduced to Japan by a Japanese priest who gave it to the Emperor. After that, in the 12th century, how to serve tea was introduced into Japan.
How To Drink Tea A celebrant of the tea ceremony holds a chasen (bamboo brush) used to stir and mix the tea.
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Other utensils used during the ceremony include: the cha-ire, a ceramic container used for the powdered tea; the kama (kettle) used for boiling water over a charcoal fire; hashi (chopsticks) made of cedar wood used for eating the simple food; the cha-wan (tea bowls) and many others. Koicha (thick tea) is served first and later usucha (thin tea). During the course of the ceremony, a kaiseki light meal, sake and higashi (dry sweets) are also served. Sit erect on the tatami mat in the seiza position and bow before entering the tea room. Look at the hanging scroll and bow. After bowing, look at the hanging scroll again and the flowers (chabana). Then eat the Japanese sweets laid out.
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Introduction To Tea Ceremony
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Tea ceremony is called Sado in Japan. Sado is the ritualistic making and drinking of green macha powdered tea. Senno Rikyu perfected the art of Sado in the sixteenth century. Hosts entertain guests by making green macha powdered tea. Sado first developed to suppress fighting ways. Thus, the tea room is a small Japanese-style room surrounded by a beautiful garden.
Chado, the Way Of Tea, is based upon the simple act of boiling water, making tea, offering it to others, and drinking of it ourselves. Served with a respectful heart and received with gratitude, a bowl of tea satisfies both physical and spiritual thirst. When you sit down in a tea room, you will feel at ease. People usually wear a kimono when serving tea at a tea ceremony. First of all, the owner carries a tea cup into the tea room. Then he hands out Japanese-style sweets. After that, he starts to make preparations fro green macha powdered tea. Green tea’s traditional role in Japanese society is as a drink for special guests and special occasions. Green tea is served in many companies during afternoon breaks. Japanese often buy sweets for their colleagues when on vacation or business trips. These snacks are usually enjoyed with green tea. Tea will also be prepared for visitors coming for meetings to companies and for guests visiting Japanese homes.
Left: A man preparing Tea Ceremony
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In Tokyo, there’s a slice of awesomeness for all budgets..Ask five Tokyoites to name the best sushi restaurants in the city, and you’re likely to get five different answers the old “how long is a piece of string?”. KIMBERLY PHOTO: ELLY TRAN
A NAGATACHO KUROSAWA
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re you looking for Hollywood glamour combined with great food in Tokyo? The big studio- and tv-bosses are all bringing their oversee A-list celebrity guests to one of the Kurosawa restaurants; Kurosawa himself is a world-renowned cinema director; The group owns four restaurants in Tokyo, and each one differs in terms of its ornate style. If you don’t get a table try “Sekishin-Tei”.Style: A-list Celebrity Shabu-Shabu Address: 2-7-9 Nagata-cho, Chiyoda-ku 100-0014, Tokyo, Japan Area: Roppongi Phone: +81 3 3580 9638 Website: http://www.9638.net/eng/index.html.
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GENAYADANA HAMADAYA
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amadaya, the 95-year old three star Michelin restaurant is located in Nihonbashi Ningyo-Cho where guests can be entertained by Geishas during their dinner. Hamadaya solely offers degustation menu known as”kaiseki”; “kaiseki” is a formal banquet cuisine served in Japanese -style such as tempura, teppanyaki or sushi in order to offer seasonal dishes. Style: Geisha Dinner Address: Hihonbashi inn Ningyo-Cho, 3-13-5 Ninyo-Cho, Nihonbashi, Chuo-Ku, Tokyo, Japan Area: Nihonbashi Phone: +81 3 3661 5940 Website: http://www.hamadaya.info/pc/english.
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SUSHI MIZUTANI
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robably the best sushi restaurant in Tokyo and the world? awarded 2009 with three Michelin stars is Hachiro Mizutani’s restaurant a must when you are in Tokyo and you love sushi; and‌important to know: his cosy restaurant accommodate only ten seats and sushi can get pricey. Style: Sushi Heaven With Hachird Mizutani. Address: Ginza seiwa silver building, B 1F, 8-2-10 Ginza, Chuo-Ku, Tokyo, Japan. Area: Ginza. Phone: +813 3573 5258. Website: http://r.tabelog.com.
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NEW YORK GRILL
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o you remember the film “Lost in translation” - this is it; amazing city views and original paintings in this iconic skyscraper restaurant; good brunch. Style: Modern International Lost in Translation Address: 52/f Park Hyatt Hotel, 3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku, Tokyo, Japan. Area: Shinjuku. Phone: +81 3 5323 3458. Website: http://www.parkhyatttokyo.com.
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ELIO LOCANDA
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uthentic Italian eatery with party atmosphere; excellent meat and pasta. Come and enjoy wiht us. Style: Italian Address: 3-15-13 Minami Aoyama, MinatoKu, Tokyo, Japan Area: Roppongi Phone: +81 3 5775 1012 Website: http://www.elio.co.jp
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onsai restaurant (15 seats) at the “Tsukiji fish market”; stand in line at 7am (yes, in the morning) after watching the famous tuna auctions; freshest sushi possible Style: Early Morning Sushi At Tsukiji Fish Market Address: Shibuya Mark City East, 4th fl. 1-2-13 Dogenzaka, Shibuky-Ku, Tokyo Area: Ginza Phone: +81 3 5458 0002 Website: http://www.sushinomidori.com.
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