The Eyebrow Harmony Shaping Method (Brow Mapping)

What is pH level?

Please note that any chemical has two opposite side: Acidic or Alkaline

There is a special scale that has levels ranging from 0-14. This scale refers to how acidic or alkaline a substance is. The level of acidity or alkalinity is known as a substances pH level.

pH 0 = Battery Acid

pH 2 = Lemon Juice

pH 2.4 = Vinegar pH 4.5 = Tomato

pH 5.5 = Clean Rain

pH 7 = Water pH 8.5 = Eggs

pH 9 = Baking Soda

pH 10 = Hand Soap pH 11.6 = Ammonia

pH 12.6 = Bleach

pH 13 = NaOH (Sodium hydroxide)

Every brow product, including tints, dyes and developers have their own pH level. Hair’s natural pH levels, when untouched, falls in the acidic range at around 4.5–5.5 and this is when it’s at its healthiest (the same as skin).

Eyebrow products that have acidic substances have a pH level that is less than 7. This means that this type of product will close your client’s cuticles. That will be a developer. On the other hand, pH levels that have greater pH of 7 are alkaline. That will your tint/dye. This will open your client’s hair cuticles and will allow the eyebrow dye/tint to penetrate as it should. So, the higher the number of pH, the deeper the color will penetrate. ACID NEUTRAL ALKALINE

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Cuticle tightly closed

pH Level of niccktownsend Developer is pH 3 Cuticle open, chemical can enter cortex Hair structure breakup

pH Level of niccktownsend Dye is pH 7–9

To determine how to effectively use niccktownend brow dye, lets’s examine the index of main ingredients it contains; The index of ingredients are listed in order from the most sizable percentages to the tiniest. In essence, whatever ingredient is first in the index has the greatest portion of the product to the least.

They come in 6 shades; Ginger, goldie, mahogany, graphite, ebony, and blue ebony.

P-Phenylenediamine(PPD)

An ingredient that is generally used in hair tints and dyes. PPD has potential toxicity however, its percentages in our dyes are creditably regulated. PPD is the component that can potentially cause an allergic reaction, which is why our protocol is to patch test every client who is introduced to the product. PPD is formulated in most dyes and is the component responsible for brown and black color bases and shades. PPD is oxidizing pigment. PPD has no color and requires oxygen for it to become a dye. PPD dyes need to be mixed with a developer.

PEG 40 Castor Oil

PEG 40 castor oil is used in our dye as a emulsifier. An emulsifier is the ingredient that holds all the other ingredients together to create the perfect blend. PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil creates a protective hydrating layer on the skin’s surface, acting as a barrier against the loss of natural moisture. PEG 40 castor oil also has high concentrations of omega-9, which moisturizes your hair and keeps color-processed hair color from fading. Resorcinol Resorcinol is an oxidizing pigment. Resorcinol reacts with a developer to bond dye to hair. Resorcinol is a color modifier. It only works in conjunction with PPD. Resorcinol is not an independent component, it requires PPD to commence.

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Hydroxide is an alkaline buffer that assists in maintaining the alkaline levels in our dye and concentrates the pigments. This component works well with skin and in combination with our dye pigments secures a long lasting skin stain. The pH of a solution of sodium hydroxide is 9. This compound is is only found in 2 of our dyes, Ebony and Blue Ebony.

Pigments & Couplers

•4-AMINO-M-CRESOL (beige, reddish brown and brown) •M-AMINOPHENOL •4-AMINO-2-HYDROXYTOLUENE •2,4-DIAMINOPHENOXYETHANOL SULFATE •CI 77499 (black) •CI 77007(CTFA] ULTRAMARINES (Blue)