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INTRODUCTION

Feeling stagnant? Need an upgrade in your brow skillset? Not sure where to look? Better yet, are you jaded from social media influencers with no real credentials and improper technique?

Wish you had a comprehensive guide on how to improve your offerings, whether for personal use or to launch and/or expand your brow empire?

If you answered yes to any of these questions, this book is for you. It covers everything you need to know about starting a brow business and delivering the best results for all of your clients using proven techniques!

Undoubtedly, brows are one of the most important features of your face. Socially, brows provide framing and create the necessary symmetry that helps translate beauty to the human eye. The effects of the Covid-19 pandemic are vivid examples of an individual’s desire to maintain the highly desired framing and symmetry. The limitations placed on individuals during the quarantine saw many flocking to YouTube and other social media platforms to learn how to facilitate their own grooming and self-care — brows included.

Moreover, there is no surprise that millions of dollars are spent every year in pursuit of perfect brows. Financially, venturing into the beauty industry can be lucrative. The global beauty and personal care industry increased sales 16 percent in 2021, and is expected to exceed $716 Billion by 2025. Furthermore, extensive market research predicts that the cosmetic industry brought in around US$451 billion in 2021 and is projected to grow to US$623 billion by 2028.

The truth is, if you master the art of eyebrow maintenance, i.e. shaping and tinting, nothing can stop you from benefiting from the lucrative beauty market.

Amongst a saturated market of tips and how-to’s, I offer the seamless blend of actually delivering a flawless brow and transforming the skill into a business, brand, profit, and, dare I say - an empire. My success has been so rewarding that I have elevated from owning an eyebrow salon generating six-figure revenues to now owning a million-dollar company!

This book is a great start for beginners, as well as advanced licensed estheticians and cosmetologists who are currently sculpting brows and desire a fresh perspective.

Telling you that there is an eyebrow technique that brings more money is easier said than done. However, I assure you that my track record supports this promise. For you to understand why my technique works, please allow me to introduce myself.

Greetings!

I am Nicck Townsend, also known as the “Brow King.” I am a world-renowned brow artist, successful entrepreneur, educator, industry leader, social media influencer and now author. With over 20 years of experience in the industry and proudly serving as the the first licensed male esthetician in Pennsylvania, I have changed the lives of my clients and students through print and television media, special events, bridal parties, and one-on-one interactions one brow at a time!

This book comes with an innovative and comprehensive approach that has proven successful in all corners of the beauty industry. Through the various techniques and steps in this book, I will show you how to deliver a customized brow, push the boundaries of business innovation, generate incremental profits all while maintaining the true intent and essence of the beauty industry - making your clients feel gorgeous and comfortable in their own skin.

My motto is “There is a beauty inside all of us, and that beauty anticipates your arrival.” Let this motto guide you through this book. You can and will achieve perfect brows and become the brow mogul you crave to be.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PAGE 4

Understanding Hair Growth and Color

PAGE 6 Waiver and Release Statement

PAGE 8 Materials and Tools needed for

Brow Shaping and Brow Tinting/Dyeing

PAGE 9 The Eyebrow Harmony Shaping Method (Brow Mapping)

PAGE 10 Waxing

PAGE 13 Brow Tinting

PAGE 21 After Care and Brow Maintenance

after Tinting

PAGE 22

Brow Dye Mixes

PAGE 24 Cost Per Service Formula

UNDERSTANDING HAIR GROWTH AND COLOR

Understanding hair, its growth, and what happens when we remove, dye, or tint will help you understand how to approach eyebrows correctly.

Most people want full eyebrows, just like on their scalp. But while all hair goes through the same cycles, the eyebrow hairs have different timings. There are also way more hair follicles on the scalp compared to the eyebrow area.

To further understand hair, let’s first look at hair anatomy.

Hair has two main parts; the hair follicle, which lies under the skin and the roots, and the hair shaft, which is the hair you can see above the skin.

The follicle further has two main parts; the bulb and the papilla (refer to the image above). The hair bulb lies at the base of the hair, and it contains living cells that grow the hair shaft. All around it are blood vessels that feed the cells with blood and nutrients that hair needs to grow.

The hair shaft consists of a small blood vessel that supplies the hair with blood flow. Thus, the hair receives all the vital nutrients it needs to remain healthy. It is also surrounded by sebum, which naturally lubricates the hair.

In addition to that, our hair is made of three layers which are;

• Medulla: This is the center of the hair structure and determines the overall condition of our hair. • Cortex: This is the layer that surrounds the medulla and serves as the primary source of our hair’s growth. • Cuticle: This is the outermost and most essential layer of our hair because it serves the purpose of giving hair its shine and protecting it from UV light. •Hair growth occurs in phases; usually, different hair strands are in different phases at any given time. This ensures continuity such that, naturally, there is no time you lose all hair at the same time.

Phase 1. Anagen

This is the growth phase, where the hair follicle is nourished to grow new hair. Each hair spends years in this phase. The hair in the head takes two to seven years, while the brows and lashes spend one or two months in this phase.

Phase 2. Catagen

Also known as the transitional phase, this happens over a few weeks. The nourishing stops, and the follicle shrinks.

Phase 3. Telogen

This is known as the resting phase. With no nourishment, the hair eventually dies and falls out, which happens over months. So new hair begins to grow at the anagen phase, while the older hair is pushed out. Only a few eyebrow hairs are lost in a day compared to the 50 to 100 strands lost on the scalp.

It is essential to note that hair growth rate varies in different people because it is influenced by factors such as race, age, hormones, and even nutrition.

So, what about hair color?

Hair Color and Pigmentation

A pigment called melanin (same as skin melanin) is responsible for hair color in the hair cells. The pigment cells die with age, which is why older people have grey or white hair. When we dye hair, we usually replace the hair pigment with a different color from its natural one. That goes for brows as well.

There are two types of melanin pigment; Eumelanin which gives hair dark colors, and Pheomelanin, which is responsible for lighter colors such as brown and blond. Pheomelanin is orange and red, and we all have it regardless of our hair color.

The ratios of these two melanins determine the real color of your hair, meaning that the darker the hair, the darker pigments you have, and the lighter the hair, the lighter pigments you have, as shown in the chart below.

Pigments level chart

To determine your client’s hair level, which is simply how light or dark the hair is, you do a visual color assessment of the hair roots and ends as well as the eyebrows. For example, if the roots of your client’s hair are the lightest natural blond, then the hair level is 10, according to the chart.

Genetics also plays a huge role in the amount of melanin concentration in your hair. People with darker skin have more Eumelanin.

When you tint or dye hair, what’s typically happening is that you replace the natural melanin pigment with synthetic pigments in your desired color because the hair cuticles open, and out goes the natural hair pigment.

In a later chapter, we will look at hair dyeing and tinting, but for now, let’s look at hair removal since understanding this is crucial for perfect brows.

WAIVER AND RELEASE STATEMENT

A waiver and release statement will explain what exactly will happen during your appointment. If you are performing waxing, tinting, or extension services on the client, have it all on that form. The statement also releases you from liability and enforces that there will be no legal action against one another should things take a different turn. Both you and the client should have a space to sign the agreement on the form.

After you complete the appointments, keep these records electronically or using record cards. I am urging you to keep these documents not only for reference purposes when a client comes in for an appointment but also for legal reasons

EYELASH & EYEBROW TINT

CONSENT, RELEASE AND WAIVER OF LIABILITY AGREEMENT

I, the undersigned (Customer”), consent to have TINT applied to my natural eyelashes and eyebrows (the “Service*) by and his/her/its staff assistants, contractors and employees (collectively herein, the “Service Provider”). The Service and its associated risks have been explained to me by the Service Provider in terms that I understand. The explanation included:

•The benefits of the Service;

•The nature of the Service and how the Service will be performed;

•The types of materials and tint used during the Service;

•The most frequently occurring risks of the Service, and those risks which are unlikely to occur but which may involve serious consequences, including but not limited to the risk of experiencing: (a) Blepharitis and its associated symptoms, (b) an allergic reactions to the tint material used to color my natural eyelashes and eyebrows, (c) Traction Alopecia and its associated symptoms; (d) an eye injury due to tint falling on or into the eye; and (e) an eye or other injury occurring during the performance of the Service;

•How to properly care for the tint applied during the Service; and

•How often I should expect to need to repeat the Service and the best methods for caring for the tint after the Service is performed; and

•Factors that affect retention of tint color in eyebrows or eyelashes.

I was given the opportunity to ask the Service Provider any questions I have regarding the Service and I have had those questions answered to my satisfaction. Based on the foregoing, I hereby assume all of the risks associated with the Service, whether known or unknown, including, but not limited to, the risk of personal injury or property damage. As consideration for Service Provider performing the Service, I forever release Service Provider and his/her/its respective directors, officers, members, managers, employees, agents, contractors, attorneys, representatives, successors and assigns from any and all actions, claims, or demands that I, my assignees, heirs, next of kin, spouse, personal representatives and legal representatives now have, or may have in the future, for injury, death, or property damage, in any way related to the Service.

SERVICE PROVIDER

CUSTOMER NAME

CUSTOMER SIGNATURE

DATE

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