MASTERCLASS EBOOK to Shaping & Tinting eyebrows Updated

THE MASTERCLASS

The Ultimate Manual to Shaping and Tinting Eyebrows

INTRODUCTION

Feeling stagnant? Need an upgrade in your brow skillset? Not sure where to look? Better yet, are you jaded from social media influencers with no real credentials and improper technique?

Wish you had a comprehensive guide on how to improve your offerings, whether for personal use or to launch and/or expand your brow empire?

If you answered yes to any of these questions, this book is for you. It covers everything you need to know about starting a brow business and delivering the best results for all of your clients using proven techniques!

Undoubtedly, brows are one of the most important features of your face. Socially, brows provide framing and create the necessary symmetry that helps translate beauty to the human eye. The effects of the Covid-19 pandemic are vivid examples of an individual’s desire to maintain the highly desired framing and symmetry. The limitations placed on individuals during the quarantine saw many flocking to YouTube and other social media platforms to learn how to facilitate their own grooming and self-care — brows included.

Moreover, there is no surprise that millions of dollars are spent every year in pursuit of perfect brows. Financially, venturing into the beauty industry can be lucrative. The global beauty and personal care industry increased sales 16 percent in 2021, and is expected to exceed $716 Billion by 2025. Furthermore, extensive market research predicts that the cosmetic industry brought in around US$451 billion in 2021 and is projected to grow to US$623 billion by 2028.

The truth is, if you master the art of eyebrow maintenance, i.e. shaping and tinting, nothing can stop you from benefiting from the lucrative beauty market.

Amongst a saturated market of tips and how-to’s, I offer the seamless blend of actually delivering a flawless brow and transforming the skill into a business, brand, profit, and, dare I say - an empire. My success has been so rewarding that I have elevated from owning an eyebrow salon generating six-figure revenues to now owning a million-dollar company!

This book is a great start for beginners, as well as advanced licensed estheticians and cosmetologists who are currently sculpting brows and desire a fresh perspective.

Telling you that there is an eyebrow technique that brings more money is easier said than done. However, I assure you that my track record supports this promise. For you to understand why my technique works, please allow me to introduce myself.

Greetings!

I am Nicck Townsend, also known as the “Brow King.” I am a world-renowned brow artist, successful entrepreneur, educator, industry leader, social media influencer and now author. With over 20 years of experience in the industry and proudly serving as the the first licensed male esthetician in Pennsylvania, I have changed the lives of my clients and students through print and television media, special events, bridal parties, and one-on-one interactions one brow at a time!

This book comes with an innovative and comprehensive approach that has proven successful in all corners of the beauty industry. Through the various techniques and steps in this book, I will show you how to deliver a customized brow, push the boundaries of business innovation, generate incremental profits all while maintaining the true intent and essence of the beauty industry - making your clients feel gorgeous and comfortable in their own skin.

My motto is “There is a beauty inside all of us, and that beauty anticipates your arrival.” Let this motto guide you through this book. You can and will achieve perfect brows and become the brow mogul you crave to be.

With that said, shall we begin?

UNDERSTANDING HAIR GROWTH AND COLOR

Understanding hair, its growth, and what happens when we remove, dye, or tint will help you understand how to approach eyebrows correctly.

Most people want full eyebrows, just like on their scalp. But while all hair goes through the same cycles, the eyebrow hairs have different timings. There are also way more hair follicles on the scalp compared to the eyebrow area.

To further understand hair, let’s first look at hair anatomy.

Hair has two main parts; the hair follicle, which lies under the skin and the roots, and the hair shaft, which is the hair you can see above the skin.

The follicle further has two main parts; the bulb and the papilla (refer to the image above). The hair bulb lies at the base of the hair, and it contains living cells that grow the hair shaft. All around it are blood vessels that feed the cells with blood and nutrients that hair needs to grow.

The hair shaft consists of a small blood vessel that supplies the hair with blood flow. Thus, the hair receives all the vital nutrients it needs to remain healthy. It is also surrounded by sebum, which naturally lubricates the hair.

In addition to that, our hair is made of three layers which are;

• Medulla: This is the center of the hair structure and determines the overall condition of our hair.

• Cortex: This is the layer that surrounds the medulla and serves as the primary source of our hair’s growth.

• Cuticle: This is the outermost and most essential layer of our hair because it serves the purpose of giving hair its shine and protecting it from UV light.

• Hair growth occurs in phases; usually, different hair strands are in different phases at any given time. This ensures continuity such that, naturally, there is no time you lose all hair at the same time.

Phase 1. Anagen

This is the growth phase, where the hair follicle is nourished to grow new hair. Each hair spends years in this phase. The hair in the head takes two to seven years, while the brows and lashes spend one or two months in this phase.

Phase 2. Catagen

Also known as the transitional phase, this happens over a few weeks. The nourishing stops, and the follicle shrinks.

Phase 3. Telogen

This is known as the resting phase. With no nourishment, the hair eventually dies and falls out, which happens over months. So new hair begins to grow at the anagen phase, while the older hair is pushed out. Only a few eyebrow hairs are lost in a day compared to the 50 to 100 strands lost on the scalp. It is essential to note that hair growth rate varies in different people because it is influenced by factors such as race, age, hormones, and even nutrition. So, what about hair color?

Hair Color and Pigmentation

A pigment called melanin (same as skin melanin) is responsible for hair color in the hair cells. The pigment cells die with age, which is why older people have grey or white hair. When we dye hair, we usually replace the hair pigment with a different color from its natural one. That goes for brows as well.

There are two types of melanin pigment; Eumelanin which gives hair dark colors, and Pheomelanin, which is responsible for lighter colors such as brown and blond. Pheomelanin is orange and red, and we all have it regardless of our hair color.

The ratios of these two melanins determine the real color of your hair, meaning that the darker the hair, the darker pigments you have, and the lighter the hair, the lighter pigments you have, as shown in the chart below.

Pigments level chart

To determine your client’s hair level, which is simply how light or dark the hair is, you do a visual color assessment of the hair roots and ends as well as the eyebrows. For example, if the roots of your client’s hair are the lightest natural blond, then the hair level is 10, according to the chart.

Genetics also plays a huge role in the amount of melanin concentration in your hair. People with darker skin have more Eumelanin.

When you tint or dye hair, what’s typically happening is that you replace the natural melanin pigment with synthetic pigments in your desired color because the hair cuticles open, and out goes the natural hair pigment.

In a later chapter, we will look at hair dyeing and tinting, but for now, let’s look at hair removal since understanding this is crucial for perfect brows.

A waiver and release statement will explain what exactly will happen during your appointment. If you are performing waxing, tinting, or extension services on the client, have it all on that form. The statement also releases you from liability and enforces that there will be no legal action against one another should things take a different turn. Both you and the client should have a space to sign the agreement on the form.

After you complete the appointments, keep these records electronically or using record cards. I am urging you to keep these documents not only for reference purposes when a client comes in for an appointment but also for legal reasons

EYELASH & EYEBROW TINT

CONSENT, RELEASE AND WAIVER OF LIABILITY AGREEMENT

I, the undersigned (Customer”), consent to have TINT applied to my natural eyelashes and eyebrows (the “Service*) by and his/her/its staff assistants, contractors and employees (collectively herein, the “Service Provider”). The Service and its associated risks have been explained to me by the Service Provider in terms that understand. The explanation included:

• The benefits of the Service;

• The nature of the Service and how the Service will be performed;

• The types of materials and tint used during the Service;

• The most frequently occurring risks of the Service, and those risks which are unlikely to occur but which may involve serious consequences, including but not limited to the risk of experiencing: (a) Blepharitis and its associated symptoms, (b) an allergic reactions to the tint material used to color my natural eyelashes and eyebrows, (c) Traction Alopecia and its associated symptoms; (d) an eye injury due to tint falling on or into the eye; and (e) an eye or other injury occurring during the performance of the Service;

• How to properly care for the tint applied during the Service; and

• How often I should expect to need to repeat the Service and the best methods for caring for the tint after the Service is performed; and

• Factors that affect retention of tint color in eyebrows or eyelashes.

I was given the opportunity to ask the Service Provider any questions I have regarding the Service and I have had those questions answered to my satisfaction. Based on the foregoing, I hereby assume all of the risks associated with the Service, whether known or unknown, including, but not limited to, the risk of personal injury or property damage. As consideration for Service Provider performing the Service, I forever release Service Provider and his/her/its respective directors, officers, members, managers, employees, agents, contractors, attorneys, representatives, successors and assigns from any and all actions, claims, or demands that I, my assignees, heirs, next of kin, spouse, personal representatives and legal representatives now have, or may have in the future, for injury, death, or property damage, in any way related to the Service.

SERVICE PROVIDER

MATERIALS AND TOOLS NEEDED FOR BROW SHAPING AND BROW TINTING/DYEING THE EYEBROW HARMONY SHAPING METHOD (BROW MAPPING)

Always ensure that you are thoroughly set up for the procedure before your client arrives. Your client should walk in to a neat, clean, and well-organized treatment room.

Cream developer, dye/tint (color of choice), Low temperature soft wax, pre-cut wax strips, Miscellar water/Tint remover, 4x4 gauze, 10 browbaton applicators, slanted tweezer, pointer tweezer, brow scissors, hybrid tint brush, brow pencils (shade of choice), eyebrow highlighters (shade of choice), highlighter brush, brow gel, eyebrow spool and hydrating eye mask.

The Eyebrow Harmony Shaping Method is the process that helps you achieve balance, symmetry, harmony and guides you in shaping eyebrows evenly. As mentioned earlier in the introduction, eyebrows are the most important feature on your face. They give you your own frame of symmetry and symmetry translates to beauty through the human eye. It is always essential to use this method on each client to see their own frame of symmetry. This method specifically tailors to each client’s eyebrows based on their bone structure and their natural brow placement. Applying this method eliminates significant errors when discovering the correct eyebrow shape for the client.

So, when we think about eyebrow shaping, we should consider that no one’s eyebrows are the same. Also, do not think of your client’s brows as twins but as sisters. However, it is your job to make your client’s eyebrows as symmetrical as possible.

So, how does eyebrow harmony shaping methodwork?

In eyebrow harmony shaping method, you mark specific points on your client’s eyebrows; i.e where your client’s eyebrows should start, where the arch should be, and where the eyebrow should end.

Applying The Eyebrow Harmony Shaping Method

The aim is to find where the eyebrow should begin, where the arch should be placed, and where the eyebrow should end. Next, ask your client to look downwards for you to identify the natural contours of the eyes.

STEP 1: Brow Start

Using your Just Everything pencil, rest your pencil above the middle of your nose, mark your first note. This is where your brow begins.

STEP 2: Arch

Then, angle the pencil across the eye and through the pupil, mark your note, this is your arch placement.

STEP 3: Brow End

Angle the pencil across the corner of your eye, mark your note, this is where your brow ends.

STEP 4: Brow Shaping

Draw a line connecting the note where your brow should start, then connecting to the note at the arch and finally connecting the arch to the note where your brow should end. Now, that you’ve connected your notes, you now have BROW HARMONY!

Anything outside these lines will need to be waxed so that you remain with a sharp natural shape. You can use waxing products of your choice.

We mostly use soft wax, but if your client has sensitive skin, you can go for hard wax.

The Brow Harmony Shaping System!

WAXING

Personally, I prefer waxing. Why? Well, waxing lasts around 4 to 6 weeks. However, many will argue that the timeline may change because hair grows differently for everyone; regardless, I still prefer waxing. I also think waxing is better because it gives the eyebrows some rich edge, and since many of my clients want strong-shaped brows, waxing gives me just that!

STEP 5: Work on the browline. Start from the beginning of the brow heading to the arch. Remember to get another brow baton for this step.

STEP 8: Apply your strip, press firmly and remove the strip against the direction of hair growth.

STEP 6: As we did with the other eyebrow, apply your strip, press firmly and remove the strip against the direction of hair growth.

STEP 1: Take your browbaton, dip it in the soft wax, and apply your wax on the top of one end of the eyebrow. Start from where the brow begins going in the direction toward the arch.

STEP 3: Take a clean browbaton, dip it into the soft wax and apply your wax from the arch to where the brow ends.

STEP 2: Apply your strip, press firmly and remove the strip going against the direction of hair growth.

STEP 4: Move to the other eyebrow and REPEAT the same steps!

Please note that you should never wax over the same area twice when using soft wax. The skin potentially will lift. If your client has sensitive skin, use hard wax.

STEP 7: Next, take another brow baton and apply wax from the arch to where the brow ends.

STEP 9: Finally, wax the center of the brow and remove with your wax strip.

STEP 10: Brush your brows. How is your work so far?

BROW TINTING

STEP 11: Take your micellar cleansing water and wipe off excess wax and brow markings

STEP 14: Clean the eyebrow using micellar cleansing water.

Brow tinting is a chemical process that substitutes the natural pigments in hairs (eumelanin and pheomelanin) with synetheic pigments that the tint/dye contains. It involves the application of dye/tint on eyebrows and to make them appear fuller, thicker, and darker.

THE PURE SCIENCE OF NICCKTOWNSEND BROW & LASH DYE

STEP 12: We will go back to brow mapping again. I am doing this again because I want to make the brows be more precise.

ALL FINISHED: Classic brow shaping:

STEP 13: Take your precision point tweezers and remove excess hair.

As you tweeze, brush the brow. This helps you see exactly what’s going on. Move to the other eyebrow and do the same.

Niccktownsend Brow & Lash dye is a colorant created by niccktownsend for beauty industry professionals. The formula of this colorant and the method of its application are unparalleled in the beauty industry. Niccktownsend dye is a demipermanent dye that colors the hair and can stain.

Demi-permanent dyes have a lower pH level than permanent dyes and are far less damaging. Due to their small color molecules, they are able to go through the cuticles and still sit in the cortex and give long-lasting color; anywhere from 4-5 weeks in general.

What is pH level?

Please note that any chemical has two opposite side: Acidic or Alkaline

There is a special scale that has levels ranging from 0-14. This scale refers to how acidic or alkaline a substance is. The level of acidity or alkalinity is known as a substances pH level.

Every brow product, including tints, dyes and developers have their own pH level. Hair’s natural pH levels, when untouched, falls in the acidic range at around 4.5–5.5 and this is when it’s at its healthiest (the same as skin)

Eyebrow products that have acidic substances have a pH level that is less than 7. This means that this type of product will close your client’s cuticles. That will be a developer. On the other hand, pH levels that have greater pH of 7 are alkaline. That will your tint/dye. This will open your client’s hair cuticles and will allow the eyebrow dye/tint to penetrate as it should. So, the higher the number of pH, the deeper the color will penetrate.

To determine how to effectively use niccktownend brow dye, lets’s examine the index of main ingredients it contains; The index of ingredients are listed in order from the most sizable percentages to the tiniest. In essence, whatever ingredient is first in the index has the greatest portion of the product to the least.

They come in 6 shades; Ginger, goldie, mahogany, graphite, ebony, and blue ebony.

P-Phenylenediamine(PPD)

An ingredient that is generally used in hair tints and dyes. PPD has potential toxicity however, its percentages in our dyes are creditably regulated. PPD is the component that can potentially cause an allergic reaction, which is why our protocol is to patch test every client who is introduced to the product. PPD is formulated in most dyes and is the component responsible for brown and black color bases and shades. PPD is oxidizing pigment. PPD has no color and requires oxygen for it to become a dye. PPD dyes need to be mixed with a developer.

PEG 40 Castor Oil

PEG 40 castor oil is used in our dye as a emulsifier. An emulsifier is the ingredient that holds all the other ingredients together to create the perfect blend. PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil creates a protective hydrating layer on the skin’s surface, acting as a barrier against the loss of natural moisture. PEG 40 castor oil also has high concentrations of omega-9, which moisturizes your hair and keeps color-processed hair color from fading.

Resorcinol

Resorcinol is an oxidizing pigment. Resorcinol reacts with a developer to bond dye to hair. Resorcinol is a color modifier. It only works in conjunction with PPD. Resorcinol is not an independent component, it requires PPD to commence.

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Hydroxide is an alkaline buffer that assists in maintaining the alkaline levels in our dye and concentrates the pigments. This component works well with skin and in combination with our dye pigments secures a long lasting skin stain.

The pH of a solution of sodium hydroxide is 9. This compound is is only found in 2 of our dyes, Ebony and Blue Ebony.

Pigments & Couplers

•

• M-AMINOPHENOL

• 4-AMINO-2-HYDROXYTOLUENE

• 2,4-DIAMINOPHENOXYETHANOL SULFATE

• CI 77499 (black)

•

Prepare the mixture

STEP 1: Select the color of dye and squeeze a pea size of dye into the mixing palette.

STEP 4: Now, take the hybrid brush and use the slanted end of the brush and start applying the dye from the front of the brow to where the brow ends. Ensure you start right at the brow line.

STEP 5: Next, work on the top of the eyebrow.

STEP 7: I like to start this process by applying at the center of the brow moving toward where the brow ends.

STEP 2: Then squeeze out the same amount of developer into the mixing palette. Both dye and developer should be in a 50:50 ratio unless you’re customizing the dye shades.

STEP 3: Mix the dye and developer into a paste like texture.

I like doing the bottom of the eyebrow first, and then the top of the eyebrow. This outlining technique helps in defining that perfect eyebrow shape.

STEP 6: Next, apply generous amounts of dye in the body of the eyebrow.

As you can see from the images above, I am focusing on body of the eyebrow. This is because as we age, we tend to start losing hairs at the tail end of the eyebrow.

STEP 8: Lightly fill in the front part of the eyebrow.

Looks beautiful, right?

Repeat the same technique to the other brow.

STEP 10: Apply plastic wrap on the eyebrows. Plastic wrap is designed to speed up the process of brow dye services, by trapping the heat in and therefore speeding up the processing times. The plastic wrap method also allows the dye to penetrate better.

STEP 12: Next, remove the dye. For this, you will need 4x4 gauze. Place gauze on the eyebrow. Then slightly press and finally begin gently removing the dye.

Be very gentle in your application when applying dye to the front of the brow. Do not apply an excessive amount of dye in the front of the eyebrow, that is not how most brows naturally grow; if they do, it is not for all eyebrows.

Please keep in mind that the hybrid brush has two ends. One end is slanted, which I have used to place the dye mixture on. I use the other side to clean up and create perfect lines.

STEP 9: Next, add a hydrating mask. I will be using the Niccktownsend hydrating mask.

LET BROWS PROCESS FOR 7-10 MINUTES WITH PLASTIC WRAP.

STEP 11: Carefully remove the plastic wrap from the dyed eyebrows.

Why use under-eye masks?

Undereye masks delivers a burst of hydration and targets the look of crow’s feet and dark circles. Awaken tired, dull eyes with these revitalizing eye masks.

I apply these masks while the dye is processing on the eyebrows. Leave this on until you are finished ebellishing the brow.

As the images above show, the dye has molded to the eyebrows.

Repeat this process to the other eyebrow!

STEP 13: To finish, get your ‘just everything’ pencil. For our client, I will use highlighter pencil. Keep in mind that we are finishing the look. This pencil will heighten the brows and define the shape of the eyebrows. Ensure that the line is sharp.

STEP 15: Remove the hydrating under eye masks.

AFTER CARE AND BROW MAINTENANCE AFTER TINTING

After tinting, there are some basic maintenance tips that you can advise your clients to follow. As they will be taking care of their brows by themselves after they leave your station. These instructions will assist in the longevity of the tint. Please remember that the life of the tint can vary from client to client.

Tell them to:

• Allow the tint to settle. To do this, avoid getting the brows wet for at least 48 hours. Clean around the eyebrows when cleansing your face.

STEP 16: Lastly, apply the brow & lash setting gel to the eyebrows. Our Brow & Lash Setting Gel locks in the dye color and rehydrates the brow hairs.

• Avoid rubbing the brow and eye area for at least the first 48 hours after tinting in order to protect the eyes.

• Use gel or cream-based cleansers around the brows instead of oil-based cleansers. Oil-based cleansers will reduce the tint life, stripping off the tint from the brows hairs a lot quicker.

• In case of reddening and irritation after tinting, ask clients to use a damp cloth to compress it on the area. Though this is rare, ask them to see a doctor if it persists.

• Strong UV light can lead to tint fading much quicker, so if clients can avoid direct sunlight, the tint will last longer.

Alternate between the pencil and the highlighter brush.

STEP 14: Take the highlighter brush and blend the Just Everything pencil by using a windshield wiping motion from the browline and into the skin.

AND YOU’RE DONE!

REPEAT the process to the other brow.

• Avoid the steam room and sauna for 48 hours. If taking a shower, they should give it at least two hours if necessary. Use lukewarm water around the waxed area with antibacterial soap.

• The tint can last up to 4 to 6 weeks on the hair. Show the client that you will be more than happy to repeat the process on them after the tint has disappeared.

DARK-BROWN HAIRED CLIENTS

© 2022 by niccktownsend

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