1
Merchandising | Niccolo’ Biagini 2
- P.5 DESIGNER
INDEX
-P.7 DESIGNER COLLABORATIONS & AWARDS -P.8 DESIGNER FEATURES AND BRAND IDENTITY
-P. 23 CLIENT WARDROBE -P. 24 PRICE RANGE -P.25 PAST COLLECTIONS -P.58 MOODBOARD F/W 15/16
-P.9 MAGAZINES PUBLICATIONS
-P. 59 LINE PLAN F/W 15/16
-P. 13 POSITIONING MAP
-P. 64MOODBOARD S/S 16
-P. 14 POSITIONING MAP TODAY HOW IT IS THE BRAND NOW
-P. 65 LINE PLAN S/S 2016
-P. 15 COMPETITORS -P. 22 MARKET SEGMENT
-P. 66 COMPETITORS/MARKET ANALYSIS BASED ON F/W 15/16 COLLECTION -P. 67 SUMMARY OF COLLECTIONS
-P.68 TARGET CUSTOMER PROFILE
-P. 81 NEW MOODBOARD
-P.70 DISTRIBUTION
-P.82 COLOUR PALETTE
-P.73 RETAILERS LOCATIONS
-P.83 COLLECTION
-P.74 SWOT ANALYSIS
-P.84 DESIGN ELEMENTS OF THE NEW COLLECTION
-P.75 NEW POSITIONING MAP -P.76 NEW POSITIONING MAP HOW IT IS THE BRAND NOW -P.77 NEW COMPETITORS -P.78 NEW LINE PLAN SEASON F/W 2016/17 -P.79 NEW DISTRIBUTION CHANNELS AND NEW MERCHADISING STRATEGY -P.80 NEW F/W COLLECTION 2016/2017 “AVANT-GARDE TAILORING”
-P. 85 COSTS, MEASUREMENTS AND TECHNICAL SHEETS -P.94 COLLECTION ITEMS -P.99 SALES FORECAST & BUYING PLAN -P.101 NEW RETAILERS -P.103 NEW RETAILERS LOCATIONS -P. 104 MISSION -P.105 VISION
CRAIG GREEN London born designer Craig Green established his namesake label in 2012, upon graduating the Fashion MA at Central Saint Martins. With an evolving cult-like vision, he has quickly carved a unique position amongst the city’s most innovative menswear designers. Marrying concepts of uniform and utility with a distinct streak of showmanship, Green’s runway presentations have been a much anticipated fixture of London Collections: Men since Autumn/Winter 13. Though notorious for their dramatic and deeply emotive qualities, each show is firmly rooted in the subtle development of simple signature pieces. The clearest example of this is the worker jacket, which appears consecutively.
DESIGNER COLLABORATIONS & AWARDS
Walter Van Beirendonck Henrik Vibskov Christopher Shannon He has designed a capsule collection of men’s shoes for Bally of Switzerland Customised a pair of trainers for David Beckham in a collaboration with Adidas Is set to launch his own range of men’s shoes in collaboration with Purified Footwear He have already received extensive online and print coverage from Dazed Digital, I-D Online, BOF-The Business of Fashion, Esquire, VOGUE UK & Italia, Interview Magazine, GQ, Hypebeast, Style.com, Fantastic Man, 10 Magazine, WAD and Designo. Green’s unique offering of substance within spectacle, has gained some of the world’s most prestigious stockists, including Dover Street Market, 10 Corso Como, Selfridges, Barney’s, Joyce and Galeries Lafayettes. Steadily evolving into a name of international renown, Craig Green designs have been featured in several major exhibitions. Most notably ARRRGH! Monsters in Fashion by Atopos cvc at La Gaîté lyrique, Paris, and China: Through the Looking Glass at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Further cementing this fact, Autumn/Winter 15 saw the launch of the debut Craig Green advertising campaign in collaboration with Nick Knight. A dynamic photo-series launched at Dover Street Market London, and subsequently supported by Another Man, Sunday Times Style, V Man, Dazed and Confused, Fantastic Man, Purple Magazine, 10 Men and Man About Town. Green’s accolades include a British Fashion Award for Emerging Menswear Designer 2014, and finalist place in the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize 2015. 7
DESIGNER FEATURES & BRAND IDENTITY -He started as a painter, than he became a designer. -Exploring masculinity -Strong visual -Multicolour prints -Showmanship -Control and chaos -Dramatic and deeply emotive qualities. -Simple fabrics with a particular elaboration, to make it better and nice looking. -Focus on fabrication and textile and realization with technologies. -He uses in all of his collections a uniform and he starts from a worker jacket and he re-elaborate it. -Simple signature pieces, the clearest example of this is the worker jacket, which appears consecutively. -Marrying concepts of uniform and utility Military, protection, invulnerability, multigarment. -He wants to find a balance between fantasy and reality. -Inspiration also from sculpture and 3D wearable pieces. -Contrast of sculptural design- created for spectacle and something more practical- almost utilitarian. 8
MAGAZINES PUBLICATIONS i-D, 35th Birthday Issue, Summer 2015
i-D, Issue 336, Spring 2015
032C, Issue 28, Summer 2015
i-D, Issue 335, Pre-Spring 2015
AnOther Magazine, Vol 2(1), Summer 2015
Arena Homme +, Winter/Spring 2015
Man Aboutown, Spring/Summer 2015
Exhibition Magazine, Powder Issue, 2015
Highsnobiety, Issue 10, Spring/Summer 2015
Vogue (British), December 2014
SSAW, Spring/Summer 2015
Vogue (China), December 2014
10 Men, Issue 41, Spring/Summer 2015
HERO
GQ Style (British), Issue 20, Spring/Summer 2015
Dazed, Vol. IV, Winter 2014
Another Man, Issue 20, Spring/Summer 2015
032c, Issue 27, Winter 2014/2015
BON, Spring/Summer 2015
10 Men, Issue 40, Winter 2014
Double, Issue 29, Spring/Summer 2015 SSAW, Spring/Summer 2015 Fantastic Man, Issue 21, Spring/Summer 2015 TANK, Vol. 8, Issue 3, Spring 2015
VMAN, Issue 32, Fall/Winter 2014 Varรณn, Vol. 9, Autumn/Winter 2014 Another Man, Issue 19, Autumn/Winter 2014
9
GQ Style (Germany), Issue 26, Autumn 2014
i-D, Issue 327, Fall 2013
Dansk, Issue 32, Autumn/Winter 2014
Hypebeast, The Process Issue
Rodeo, Autumn 2014
10 Men, Issue 35, Autumn 2013
The Fashion, Issue 3, Autumn 2014
Wonderland, Summer 2013
Stella, The Sunday Telegraph, 15 June 2014
Dazed & Confused, Vol III, July 2013
Wonderland, Summer 2014
Fantastic Man, Spring/Summer 2013
Dazed, Vol. IV, Spring/Summer 2014
Dazed & Confused, Vol III, June 2013
GQ Style (British), Spring/Summer 2014 Another Man, Issue 18, Spring/Summer 2014 Clash, Issue 93, April 2014 Rollacoaster, January 2014 10 Men, Issue 37, Spring 2014 Disegno, No.2 10
i-D, Issue 329, Pre-Spring 2014
POSITIONING MAP LUXURY AVANT - GARDE FASHION LUXURY
PREMIUM BRANDS
AVANT - GARDE
MASS MARKET 13
POSITIONING MAP TODAY HOW IT IS THE BRAND NOW FASHION LUXURY
-THOM BROWNE
-JIL SANDER
-RICK OWENS
-MARGIELA -MCQUEEN
-HOOD BY AIR
-COMMES DES GARCONS -ALEXANDER WANG
14
-YOHJI YAMAMOTO
AVANT GUARDE
COMPETITORS
THOM BROWNE MARGIELA, MM6 ALEXANDER WANG YOHJI YAMAMOTO,Y-3 COMMES DES GARCONS,PLAY
HUSSAIN CHALAYAN RICK OWENS MCQUEEN,MCQ HOOD BY AIR 15
YOHJI YAMAMOTO F/W 15
16
HOOD BY AIR F/W15
17
MAISON MARGIELA F/W15
18
RICK OWENS F/W15
19
HUSSEIN CHALAYAN F/W15
20
JIL SANDER F/W15
21
MARKET SEGMENT TOP PRICE PRODUCT LUXURY ITEM
22
CLIENT WARDROBE YOHJI YAMAMOTO, (Y-3)
COMMES DES GARCONS, (PLAY)
THOM BROWNE
RICK OWENS
MARGIELA ,(MM6)
HUSSAIN CHALAYAN
ALEXANDER WANG
JIL SANDER
MCQUEEN,(MCQ)
HOOD BY AIR
23
PRICE RANGE JACKETS from 700€ - 1800€ - 3300€ PANTS from 450€ - 900€- 1100€ SWEATHERS from - 500€ - 700€ SHIRTS from - 380€ - 450€ - 550€ T-SHIRTS from - 220€ - 350€ VESTS from - 650€ - 1000€
24
F/W MA 2012 COLLECTION “SHADOWS AND REFLECTIONS”
27
ANALYSIS 20 OUTFITS
INSPIRATION EXPERIMENTATION CONSTRUCTION SHADOW AND REFLECTIONS “THE VILLAGE OF THE DAMNED 1960” RELIGION AND CULTS WORK-WEAR AND UNIFORM PRECONCEPTION OF MANLINESS BOWNDARY PUSHING PRISONER-LIKE
MONOCHROME LAYERING GEOMETRIC LINES DIGITAL PRINTS CONTRAST BETWEEN WHITE AND BLACK MINIMAL GARMENTS SCULPTURAL BODY PICES
MATERIALS
COLOUR PALLETTE
SPLINTERED WOOD HARSH FABRIC COTTON CANVAS
28
DESIGN ELEMENTS
Each colour tie-dye outfit has an exact replica outfit in black, which walks behind it as a ‘shadow’. The light and dark idea is also apparent in the placement prints being inspired and realised threw projecting light onto the outfits. The prints are a process where hand bleached fabric is scanned in and engineered precisely onto pattern pieces to create seamless digitally placed and layered prints on the body, giving the illusion of a coloured light projection. I looked at a lot of religious dress and minimalist construction…I became obsessed with clothing as a uniform— sometimes, it’s oppressive but it also provides [the wearer] with a sense of belonging and a feeling of community. Craig Green 29
30
S/S 2013 COLLECTION “OUT OF THE ORDINARY AND BRITISH TRADITIONS”
32
ANALYSIS 10 OUTFITS
INSPIRATION
DESIGN ELEMENTS
OUT OF THE ORDINARY BRITISH TRADITIONS BOYHOOD FANTASY MASCULINITY PURSUIT OF ADVENTURE RELIGIOUS FEELING
GEOMETRIC TEXTILES WOOD MASKS LIGHT COLOUR PALETTE ORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL STRIPES
MATERIALS
COLOUR PALETTE
INEXPENSIVE FABRIC CRINKLE-WASHED CALICO, SCREENPRINTED-BY-HAND SUEDE, MUSLIN CHEESECLOTH, FINISHINGS LIKE RAW-CUT HEMS AND RUBBER-DIPPED SEAMS THERMO ADESIVE RUBBER STRIPES
33
I focused a lot on the potentials within various fabrics, concentrating on developing fabrication techniques and unusual finishing methods. Treating each of the garments as a separate D.I.Y project in a way, I aimed to give the collection a minimal feeling with well-considered accessible pieces. In contrast to most other designers who use expensive fabrics like silk for the designer garments, he strongly believes in using relatively inexpensive fabrics like calico, muslin cheesecloth and mohair for his outfits, using his skills to transform the fabrics into designer garments‌since he was based in London, the cost of producing the fabrics was already much higher, but by producing all the textiles that were used in-house, they were able to cut costs significantly. Craig Green
A/W 2013/14 COLLECTION “LIGHT,SHADOW AND REFLECTION”
ANALYSIS 18 OUTFITS
INSPIRATION
DESIGN ELEMENTS
LIGHT,SHADOW, RIFLECTION AND SILHOUETTE DARK, DRAMA AD TENSION WORKER JACKET, UNIFORM FASHION GO BACK TO ART SCULPTURE FARMERS AND ARISTOCRACY WARDROBE MASCULINITY UTILITARIAN AESTHETIC SENSE OF CHAOS
SCULPTURAL JAGGED MASKS HAND PAINTED STRIPES MONOCHROMATIC PALETTE UNSTRUCTURED JACKET FALDED OUT POCKETS RAW EDGED TECHNIQUE DECONSTRUCTION
MATERIALS
COLOUR PALETTE
GLOSS WAXED COTTON COTTON-KNITTED YARN MIXED WITH MOHAIR AND RUBBERDIPPED MUSLIN CHEESECLOTH FRAYED BLEACHED BANDAGE STRIPES. DENIM 37
…up close, the pieces had real depth, thanks to the mixing and piling on of materials and techniques, especially in the raw-edged, Frankensteined knitwear made in collaboration with Green’s former classmate Helen Lawrence. Throughout the entire range, waxed cotton was overpainted with gloss, crinkle-pleated satin was heatbonded with vinyl stripes, each piece built up “almost ritually,” opined the show notes, “in a manner approaching the concept of vestments.” Hosanna! Green added this benediction for any wary retailers in the audience: “Everything,” he promised, “comes in black.” Matthew Schneider for Style.com 38
S/S 2014 COLLECTION “TIE DYE”
41
ANALYSIS 21 OUTFITS
INSPIRATION
DESIGN ELEMENTS
CHAOS AND CONTROL CONFLICTING AND CONTRASTING IDEAS EUPHORIC AND RESTRICTIVE WORKER JACKET CLASHES UTILITARIAN AND ORNATENESS FUNCTION AND UNFUNCTIONAL, TRADITIONAL AND NEW MASCULINE FLUIDITY PROTECTIVE SHIELD
BOXES LIKE SCULPTURES HAND DYED PRINTS SCULPTURAL PIECES ALL ONE COLOUR OUTFIT FULL COLOURED CHAOTIC PRINTS VERSUS FULL PLAIN LOOKS 3D ELEMENTS BLACK AND WHITE CONTRAST LAYERED CLOTHING TO PRODUCE STRUCTURE CONSTUCTED/DECONSTRUCTED LOOSED FITTED SILHOUETTES MINIMAL LINES
MATERIALS WOOL TYE AND DYE COTTON WOOD
42
COLOUR PALETTE
Made in collaboration with David CurtisRing, [this collection]Â can be placed somewhere between wearability and conceptualism: minimalism in the cuts and complexity in the tailoring techniques and prints. Sober but stratified, each piece is presented in a basic version (with a bandana that covers the entire face of the model), or in a destructured one, in which the garment explodes into a coagulated knot as if creating a protective shield. Dazed & Confused
43
F/W 2014 COLLECTION “HAND PAINTING”
46
ANALYSIS 22 OUTFITS
INSPIRATION
DESIGN ELEMENTS
AUSTERE , NOSTALGICALLY CERIMONIAL AND SOLEMN MONASTIC AND RELIGIOUS ANTI-DIGITAL IN EXTREME SENSE REACTION TO EVERYTHING HAS BEEN GOING ON RECENTLY PROGRESSIVE IDEAS JAPANESE INFLUENCE
FLOORS LENGTH COATS WIDE TROUSERS SKIRTS ORNAMENTED WITH FADED PERSIAN PRINTS RESTRAINED LEATHER HARNESSES ALL HAND PAINTED GARMENTS LACES OVER-LARGE POCKETS TOPS OVER TUNICS THAT PROVIDE VOLUMS
MATERIALS
COLOUR PALETTE
PRINTED COTTON LEATHER COATED COTTON TIE-DYE COTTON SHINY MATERIAL
47
The austere yet rich floorlength eighties coats and skirts were a subtle feminine nod that somehow strengthened the overall masculinity. Dazed and Confused
S/S 2015 COLLECTION “SARTORIAL POETRY”
51
ANALYSIS 25 OUTFITS
INSPIRATION
DESIGN ELEMENTS
UNIFORM AND UTILITY THROUGH A CULT-LIKE NOTION OF COMMUNITY WORKER JACKET JAPANESE INFLUENCE ZEN MASCULINITY INTERPRETATION WORKER JACKET
MINIMALISM LARGE PANELS OF QUILTED FABRICS FABRIC TIES WOOD STRUCTURES STRUCTURED CLOTHING COLLAPSED INTO TOPS WIDE PANTS CONSTRUCTION
MATERIALS
COLOUR PALETTE
COTTON WOOL NYLON COATED COTTON DENIM
52
Some of the best conceptual collections avoid having references that are too literal, allowing the viewer to layer in their own meaning. For the sake of linking the concept with the construction details in this discussion, this collection appeared to have many references to our basic ideas of humans being “clothed” and “sheltered”. To support this idea through the actual garment construction many of the more modern and constrained ideas of clothing were gone; there was no heavy interfacings or canvas tailoring, and the most common closures and fastenings, such as buttons and zips, were often replaced with simple ties that helped to pull and wrap the cloth around the bodies of the models. Isabella Burley, Dazed and Confused 53
F/W 2015 COLLECTION
56
ANALYSIS 31 OUTFITS
INSPIRATION
DESIGN ELEMENTS
UTILITARIAN OUTWEAR AND OPPOSITE IDEAS OF PROTECTION AND VULNERABILITY UNIFORM RESTRICTION
MILITARY ELEMENTS LACES PADDING AND LAYERING STRUCTURED OUTWEAR OVERSIZE CIRCULAR HOLES
MATERIALS
COLOUR PALETTE
COTTON NEOPRENE WOOL LACES POPLINE
57
MOODBOARD
LINE PLAN F/W 15/16 ITEMS STYLES MATERIAL
C/C
PRICE POINTS
COATS/ JACKETS
15
4
Cotton, Wool, Neoprene
White, Black, Dark green, Red, Navy
700€ - 1800€ 3300€
LONG SLEEVE T-SHIRTS
15
5
Jersey
White, Black, Red, Navy
220€ - 350€
KNITWEAR
12
3
Wool
Black, Dark green, Navy
500€ - 700€
SHIRTS
8
4
Cotton, Poplin White, Black, Dark green, Navy
380€ - 450€ 550€
PANTS
31
5
Cotton, Wool, Neoprene
450€ - 900€1100€
TOTAL
81
21
White, Black, Dark green, Red, Navy
59
S/S 2016 COLLECTION
62
ANALYSIS 29 OUTFITS
INSPIRATION ZEN CRAFT WORK UTILITY WEAR WORKER JACKET SAMUARAI MILITARY MARTIAL ARTS
MATERIALS
DESIGN ELEMENTS LACES QUILTING AND WRAPPING OVERSIZE LOSING PANTS AND TOPS HOLES RUBBER BANDS TWISTED FABRICS
COLOUR PALETTE
COTTON NYLON COTTON JERSEY DENIM
63
MOODBOARD
LINE PLAN S/S 2016 ITEMS STYLES
MATERAL
C/C
PRICE POINTS
JACKETS
15
5
Cotton, Nylon, Denim
Yellow, Black, Green, Blue, Denim, Orange, White
610 €
LONGUE SLEEVE T-SHIRTS
9
3
Jersey
White, Blue, Black,
300€
VESTS
4
1
Cotton
Black, White, Red
600€
KNITWEAR
4
2
Cotton
Yellow, Green, Orange, Black
515€
SHIRTS
16
5
Poplin, Cotton
White, Yellow, Black, Green, Light Blue, Orange
500-600€
PANTS
29
8
Cotton, Denim, Nylon
Yellow,Red,Black,Green,De 500-550€ nim,White,Orange
TOTAL
77
24
65
COMPETITORS/MARKET ANALYSIS BASED ON F/W 15/16 COLLECTION
66
BRAND
COLLECTION SIZE
PRICE RANGE
MAISON MARGIELA
28
JACKETS 900€ PANTS 600€
JUNYA WATANABE
47
JACKETS 700€ PANTS 500€
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
43
JACKETS 1000€ PANTS 700€
THOM BROWNE
43
JACKETS 1200€ PANTS 800€
HUSSAIN CHALAYAN
21
JACKETS 850€ PANTS 670€
COMME DES GARCONS
40
JACKETS 900€ PANTS 650€
RICK OWENS
41
JACKETS 970€ PANTS 770€
MCQUEEN
32
JACKETS 950€ PANTS 750€
JIL SANDER
33
JACKETS 850€ PANTS 740€
HOOD BY AIR
35
JACKETS 650€ PANTS 450€
SUMMARY OF COLLECTIONS From the first collection is going up with the numbers of the outfits in the collections The range is between 10 to 32, he adds every collection some outfits The strong items are coats, jackets and pants. He sells mostly coats, pants, sweaters and also total look mainly in the same colour. Now also women are using Craig Green, not just men like he does.
67
TARGET CUSTOMER PROFILE DEMOGRAPHIC VARIABLES: Men Ageless target or 22/25 up customer Contemporary Mostly European, Japan, Asian people People who are doing research in fashion Work in fashion people, people of the sector Free or engaged Independent, Individuals High level life, cool lifestyle Work in fashion people or artist, business people, people with taste, creative people High level education, fashion and art education High revenue Medium-high, high class 68
PSICOGRAPHIC VARIABLES & BEHAVIOURAL VARIABLES: Cool lifestyle He wants to be notable and differentiate himself High level and many aspirations Self confident High value of the things He purchase to pure pleasure, to be different from the masses and to fell good to buy and he likes to wears always perfect and fancy He likes fashion and art in general He is free minded but he has strong opinions on what he thinks
GEOGRAPHIC VARIABLES: Of any religion Urban people Good residential location Design apartment Living in big cities Mite climate
69
DISTRIBUTION STOCKISTS: DEPARTMENT STORES & CONCEPT STORES : UK Dover Street Market London www.doverstreetmarket.com Matches Fashion London www.matchesfashion.com Selfridges London www.selfridges.com
70
EUROPE FRANCE Comme des Garรงons Paris www.comme-des-garรงons.com Galeries Lafayette Paris www.galerieslafayette.com L'Eclaireur Paris www.leclaireur.com
ITALY 10 Corso Como, Milan www.10corsocomo.com Antonioli Milan www.antonioli.eu THE NETHERLANDS SPRMRKT Amsterdam www.sprmrkt.nl BELGIUM Renaissance Antwerpen www.princess.eu/renaissance
IRELAND Nowhere Dublin www.anowhereman.com LUXEMBOURG Smets Concept Store Strassen www.smets.lu
USA Dover Street Market New York www.doverstreetmarket.com Barneys New York  www.barneys.com VFiles Online www.barneys.com
CALIFORNIA Opening Ceremony Los Angeles www.openingceremony.us H Lorenzo West Hollywood www.hlorenzo.com Maas and Stacks San Francisco www.maasandstacks.com Wildstyle Los Angeles www.wildstylelela.com
JAPAN Dover Street Market Tokyo www.ginza.doverstreetmarket.com Eliminator Tokyo www.eliminator.co.jp GR8 Tokyo www.gr8.jp Wallace and Murron Osaka www.wallaceandmurron.com
HONG KONG Joyce HK www.joyce.com
CHINA 10 Corso Como Shanghai Shanghai www.10corsocomo.com Joyce Shanghai Shanghai www.joyce.com Shine Beijing www.shinegroup.com
71
EAST ASIA South Korea 10 Corso Como Seoul Seoul www.10corsocomo.com Boontheshop Seoul, Gangnam-gu www.boontheshop.com My Boon Seoul www.myboon.co.kr Taiwan Trends Taipei City www.trends-taipei.com Singapore Club 21 Singapore www.club21global.com
72
MIDDLE EAST KUWAIT 4 Kuwait Shuwaikh www.thenumber4.com
32 RETAILERS AND 33 E-COMMERCE
RETAILERS LOCATIONS
EUROPE: 12 USA: 7 ASIA: 8 EAST ASIA: 5 MIDDLE EAST: 1
SWOT ANALYSIS
STRENGHTS
74
WEAKNESSES
-Many collaborations -Exclusive and very rare, niche products -Not for everyone -Well known young designer -Recognisable style and characteristics -Very strong visual impact -Distributed in the most important department stores and concept stores -linked with art -Very good and elaborated materials -Craftsmanship
-Too much complicate style and artistic -Not so available -Not accessible for everyone, quite expensive -Particular style -Not a big budget
OPPORTUNITIES
THREATS
-Exploring new markets -Enlarge the market -Create a new target /market segment -Find new launching collaboration -opportunity to make new merchandising categories
-Became to much commercial -Lose his own identity on features -Loose the craftsmanship
NEW POSITIONING MAP LUXURY
AVANT-GARDE FASHION LUXURY
PREMIUM BRANDS
AVANTGUARDE
MASS MARKET 75
NEW POSITIONING MAP HOW IT IS THE BRAND NOW FASHION LUXURY -PRADA -TOM FORD
-MCQUEEN
-THOM BROWNE -RICK OWENS
-MARGIELA
-JIL SANDER
-ALEXANDER WANG
-COMMES DES GARCONS -HOOD BY AIR
-YOHJI YAMAMOTO
AVANT-GARDE 76
NEW COMPETITORS TOM FORD
THOM BROWNE PRADA YOHJI YAMAMOTO ALEXANDER WANG MCQUEEN,MCQ JIL SANDER RICK OWENS MARGIELA,MM6 HOOD BY AIR COMMES DES GARCONS 77
NEW LINE PLAN SEASON F/W 2016/17 F/W15/16
ITEMS
F/W16/17 ITEMS
STYLE MATERIAL
C/C
PRICE POINTS
COATS/JACKETS
15
COATS
12
4
Wool, Coated cotton
Navy, blue, black, dark grey, military green
LONG SLEEVE T-SHIRTS
15
700€ - 900€ 1220€ - 3300€
JACKETS
12
3
Wool, Neoprene
Navy, dark grey, military green, denim blue, grey, dark grey
800€ - 1115€ 1500€
KNITWEAR
12
PANTS
22
4
Wool, Neoprene
SHIRTS
8
Navy, dark grey, military green, Dark grey Gessato, denim blue, grey, dark grey
450€ – 710€ – 900€ - 1100€
KNITWEAR 9
3
Wool
Light green, electric blue, military green
400€ – 500€ 700€
SHIRTS
6
3
Poplin
White, light blue
380€ – 450€ 550€
TOTAL
61
15
PANTS
TOTAL 78
31
81
NEW DISTRIBUTION CHANNELS AND NEW MERCHADISING STRATEGY CONCEPT AND RESEARCH STORES IN MANY EUROPEANS CAPITALS AND FASHION CIETIES TO REACH 52 RETAILERS PLUS TREE ONLINE RETAILERS IN THE WORLD GREATERED EXPANSION IN ITALY ,EUROPE ,AMERICA AND ASIA, ENTEREDIN THE RUSSIAN MARKET MAKE THE PRICES LOWER TO MAKE IT MORE ACCESSIBLE WITHOUT CHANGING THE ICONIC STYLE BUT ALSO DOING THE PART OF THE COLLECTION SIMPLER AND LESS ARTICULATE WITH GOOD RAW MATERIALS AT LOWER PRICES ADOPTING THE NEW MERCHANDISING STRATEGY AS RICK OWENS AND IRIS VAN HERPEN THAT ARE DOING A MORE SELLABLE COLLECTIONS, INSTEAD OF JUST ARTISTIC PIECES, TO INCRESE AND MAKE AN HIGHER REVENUE HIGH LEVEL LINE BUT MORE ACCESSIBLE LIKE MM6 TO REACH ALSO A WITHER MARKET MAKE A DIFFERENT DISTRIBUTION FOR THE SHOPS MODERATED PRICING, NOT LIKE THE TOP LINE 15 ITEMS FOR THE BIGGER SIZE RETAILER LIKE SELFRIDGES 9 ITEMS FOR THE MEDIUM SIZE RETAILER LIKE ANTONIOLI 4 SIZES XS,S,M,L FOR EACH RETAILER FOR THE USA RETAILERS WE USES LARGER SIZES MORE THAN 60 PIECES FOR THE BIGGER SIZE RETAILERS MORE THAN 36 PIECES FOR THE MEDIUM SIZE RETAILERS
79
NEW F/W COLLECTION 2016/2017 “AVANT-GARDE TAILORING”
A mix of Craig Green style using a work jacket making a suit like Thom Brown style, Avant - garde using simple and innovative materials. Following the Craig Green concept of starting from a uniform and elaborate a new Avant - garde and re-elaborated suit.
80
NEW MOODBOARD
COLOUR PALETTE +
COATS
+
NEOPRENE JACKETS
KNITWEAR
JACKETS
SHIRTS 82
PANTS
NEW COLLECTION F/W 16/17
83
DESIGN ELEMENTS OF THE NEW COLLECTION BANDS/LACES HOLES ON SHOULDERS AND INSIDE OF THE ELBOWS TAILORING ELEMENTS UNIFORM MULTI-LAYERS STRUCTURED ITEMS BIG VOLUMES DARK COLOUR PALETTE
84
COST SHEET 1 COST SHEET
Collection: AVANT-GARDE TAILORING Style #:
Description: Less bands coat Fabric:
Date:
100% Wool XS S
Size: Material:
1W LIN
Trim/Finding:
Bottons Laces Zippers
Label +Thread
Packaging:
Hanger & Polibag
M
Quantity:
1,80 mtr 1,60 mtr
6 2 3
1
1
1
Tot Material: TOTAL: Labor:
Sewing
Price:
Total:
28,80€ 2,88 €
0,40€ 2€/mtr 3€/mtr
2,40€ 1,20€ 3,40€
2,50€ 3€
2,50 € 3€
7%
45,38€ 3,17€ 48,55€
2 Materials 12 hours x 0,20€/1 min
Season: F/W 2016
XL
16€ 1,80€
1,20€
+% raise of cost:
Pattern cutting
L
CT3 15/6/2015
SKETCH:
1,20€
Cost:
3€
144€
NOTES:
Total labor: +% loss:
147€
TOTAL:
195,55€
TOTAL COST: MARKUP/ OVERHEAD: DUTY: AGENT: CURRENCY: ROYALTIES ADDITIONAL COST:
TOTAL WHOLESALE:
2.5 12%
488,87€ 58,66€
5%
24,44€ 571,97€
85
MEASUREMENT SHEET 1 JACKET COAT SPEC SHEET
DATE 1/03/2015
SEASON
F/W16
ZIPPERS 1 Front zipper 60 cm
NAME Less bands coat FABRICATION/SHELL
1 2 3 4 5 6
86
STYLE CT3 Description: Multilayers coat LACES 2 Sling bands POCKETS 2 Pocket zippers 7cm each
100% Wool
SHOULDER – LENGTH BACK – LENGTH HIPS MEASUREMENT SLEEVE – LENGTH SLEEVE - WIDTH WAIST MEASUREMENT
LINING 100% Viscose
49 cm 60 cm 100 cm 62 cm 37 cm 92 cm
BOTTONS 6 Clipper bottons
TECHNICAL SHEET 1 FABRIC DETAIL SHEET COAT
id #[ 1W
]
Collection: AVANT-GARDE TAILORING Season: F/W 16 COMPANY: LANIFICIO CANGIOLI Fabric ID #: 1W Fiber content: 100% Wool Fabric Width: 1,50 m Fabric weight: 500 gr/mtl Delivery Date:60 Days Description: Wool velour Cost:16 € / Meter
TRIM AND FINDINGS SHEET
id #[ 001 ] Collection: AVANT-GARDE TAILORING Season: F/W 16 COMPANY: KKY Product ID #: 001 Material: Metal Size: Description: 6 Metallic Black clip botton 1cm, 1 black zipper 60 cm 2 Laces 30 cm each Cost:Botton 2,40€ cent, Zipper 3€,laces 1€
SWATCH:
SAMPLE:
COLOR STANDARDS:
COLOR STANDARDS:
Dye: Piece dyed Finishing: Velour Dimensial stability: WARP:
2,1%
WEFT:
Dye: Finish: Opac Dimensial stability:
2,5%
P
P Miscellaneous:
Miscellaneous: Don’t steam
87
COST SHEET 2 COST SHEET
Collection: AVANT-GARDE TAILORING Style #:
Description: Structured jacket 100% Wool Fabric:
XS S
Size: Material:
Quantity:
1WDG LIN
1,60 mtr 1,50 mtr
Trim/Finding:
Bottons
8
Label +Thread
Packaging:
M
1
Hanger & Polibag
1
Tot Material: +% raise of cost:
TOTAL: Labor:
Pattern cutting Sewing
L Price:
11€ 1,80€
Date:
Total:
17,60€ 2,70 €
3,60€
2,50€
2,50 €
1,20€
1,20€
7%
27,60€ 1,90€ 29,50€
10 hours x 0,20€/1 min
3€
120€
+% loss:
123€ 152,50€
TOTAL COST: MARKUP/ OVERHEAD: DUTY: AGENT: CURRENCY: ROYALTIES ADDITIONAL COST:
88
TOTAL WHOLESALE:
SKETCH:
Cost:
Total labor: TOTAL:
Season: F/W 2016
XL
0,40€
2 Materials
JT2 15/6/2015
2,5
381,25€
12%
45,75€
5%
19,06€
446,06€
NOTES:
MEASUREMENT SHEET 2 JACKET SPEC SHEET JACKET 1/03/2015 NAME Structured jacket
DATE
FABRICATION/SHELL
SEASON F/W 16
STYLE JT2 DESCRIPTION Structured jacket
100% Wool
LINING 100% Viscose
BOTTONS POCKETS 2 pockets in the front
48cm 55cm
1
SHOULDER – LENGTH
2
BACK – LENGTH
3
HIPS MEASUREMENT
4
SLEEVE – LENGTH
5
SLEEVE - WIDTH
98 cm 61 cm 36 cm
6
WAIST MEASUREMENT
92 cm
89
TECHNICAL SHEET 2 FABRIC DETAIL SHEET JACKET
id #[ 2WDG ]
Cost: SAMPLE:
COLOR STANDARDS:
COLOR STANDARDS:
WEFT:
Dye: Finish: Dimensial stability:
2,4%
P
P
90
0,80€ each
SWATCH:
Dye: Yarn dyed Finishing: Beaver Dimensial stability: WARP: 1,8%
]
Collection: AVANT-GARDE TAILORING Season: F/W 16 COMPANY: KKY Product ID #: 002 Material: Natural caw horn Size: 1 cm, 0,50cm Description: Basic 4 holes botton
Collection: AVANT-GARDE TAILORING Season: F/W 16 COMPANY:LANIFICIO CANGIOLI Fabric ID #: 2W Dark Gray Fiber content: 100% Wool Fabric Width: 1,50 m Fabric weight:450 gr/mtl Delivery Date: 60 Days Description: Wool beaver Cost: 11 € / Meter
Miscellaneous:
id #[ 002
TRIM AND FINDINGS SHEET
Miscellaneous:
Don’t steam
COST SHEET 3 COST SHEET
Collection: AVANT-GARDE TAILORING Style #:
Description: Structured pant Fabric:
Date:
100% Wool
Size:
XS S
Material:
100% Wool LIN
Trim/Finding:
Bottons Zipper Label + Thread
Packaging:
Hanger & Polibag
M
Price:
Quantity:
1,40 mtr 0,80 mtr 3 1 1
1
Tot Material: TOTAL:
Sewing
Total:
22,40 € 1,44€
0,50€ 3€ 2,50€
1,50€ 3€ 2,50€
7% 2 Materials 7 hours x 0,20€/1min
Season: F/W 2016
XL
16€ 1,80€
1,20€
+% raise of cost:
Labor: Pattern cutting
L
1PAN 15/6/2015
SKETCH:
1,20€
32,04€ 2,24€ 34,28€ Cost: 3€
84€
NOTES:
87€
Total labor: +% loss:
TOTAL:
121,28€
TOTAL COST: MARKUP/ OVERHEAD: DUTY: AGENT: CURRENCY: ROYALTIES ADDITIONAL COST:
TOTAL WHOLESALE:
2
242,56€
12%
29,10€
5%
12,12€
283,78€
91
MEASUREMENT SHEET 3 PANTS SPEC SHEET DATE NAME
1/03/2015
F/W 16
STYLE 1PAN Description: Structured pants
AVANT-GARDE TAILORING
FABRICATION 100% Wool
92
SEASON
LINING: 100% Viscose
1
WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE (TM)
78 cm
2
WAISTBAND – HEIGHT
97 cm
3
FRONT RISE
30 cm
4
BACK RISE
32 cm
5
INSEAM
30 cm
6
OUTSEAM
32 cm
7
THIGH CIRCUMFERENCE (TM)
56 cm
8
KNEE CIRCUMFERENCE (TM)
42 cm
9
ANKLE CIRCUMFERENCE (TM)
32 cm
BOTTONS 1 Metallic Black clip botton ZIPPER 1 Black zipper 13 cm LABEL 1 In the back part
TECHNICAL SHEET 3 FABRIC DETAIL SHEET PANTS
id #[ 1GE
]
TRIM AND FINDINGS SHEET
Collection: AVANT-GARDE TAILORING Season: F/W 16 COMPANY: YKK Product ID #: 001,002 Material: Metallic Size: 001 (1 cm) ,003 (13 cm) Description: 1 Metallic Black clip botton 1cm, 1 black zipper 13 cm
Collection: AVANT-GARDE TAILORING Season: F/W 16 COMPANY:LUIGI BOTTO Fabric ID #: 1 Gessato Fiber content: 100% Wool Fabric Width: 1,5 m Fabric weight:300 gr/mtl Delivery Date: 60 Days Description: Fine wool fabric, pin stripes Cost: 16/20 € / Meter
Cost: Botton 50 cent, Zipper 3€
SWATCH:
SAMPLE:
COLOR STANDARDS:
COLOR STANDARDS:
Dye: Yarn dyed Finishing: Flat Dimensial stability: WARP: 1,5%
WEFT:
Dye: Finish: Dimensial stability:
2,5%
P
P Miscellaneous:
id #[ 001,003 ]
Miscellaneous:
93
COATS 1
2
3
4
4 STYLES 2 MATERIALS (WOOL,COATED COTTON) 4 COLOURS TRENCH
LACES COATS
94
JACKETS 1
2
3
3 STYLES 2 MATERIALS (NEOPRENE + REFLECTIVE STRIPES, WOOL) 3 (NEOPRENE) COLOURS 3 (WOOL) COLOURS
95
PANTS 1
3
96
4 STYLES 2 MATERIALS (NEOPRENE,WOOL) 4 (WOOL) COLOURS 3 (NEOPRENE) COLOURS
2
4
KNITWEAR 1
2
3
3 STYLES 3 COLOURS 1 MATERIAL (WOOL)
97
SHIRTS 1
98
2
3
3 STYLES 2 COLOURS 1 MATERIAL (POPLIN)
SALES FORECAST
99
BUYING PLAN
100
NEW RETAILERS EUROPE FRANCE L'Espionne Paris www.lespionne.com Colette Paris www.colette.fr ITALY Excelsior Milano Milano www.excelsiormilano.com L'Inde Le Palais Bologna www.lindelepalais.com Luisa via Roma Firenze www.luisaviaroma.com
Societé Anonime Firenze www.societeanonyme.com Space Firenze www.playgroundshop.com UK Harvey Nicholson London www.harveynichols.com Harrods London www.harrods.com CANADA SSENSE Montréal www.ssense.com
USA Neiman Marcus New York www.neimanmarcus.com Forward by Elyse Walker Los Angeles www.fwrd.com Opening Ceremony New York New York www.openingceremony.us The Corridor Store Fort Lee www.thecorridorstore.com Traffic Los Angeles Los Angeles www.traffic-losangeles.com
101
JAPAN Opening Ceremony Shibuya-ku, Tokyo www.openingceremony.us Sogo Seibu Tokyo www.sogo-seibu.jp CHINA Joyce Beijing Beijing www.joyce.com SOUTH KOREA Boontheshop Jung-gu, Seoul www.boontheshop.com
102
RUSSIA Air Moscow Moscow www.air-moscow.com/ ONLINE Carson Street www.carsonstreetclothiers.com SHOWstudio / MACHINE-A www.shop.showstudio.com Suspension Point www.suspensionpoint.ca
20 NEW RETAILERS AND 3 MORE ONLINE
NEW RETAILERS LOCATIONS
NEW RETAILERS EUROPE: +9 USA: +5 CANADA: 1 ASIA: +3 EAST ASIA: +1 MIDDLE EAST: ⁄ RUSSIA: 1
103
VISION Our vision is expand the market of the brand with the new CRAIG GREEN “ Avant – garde tailoring” F/W 2016 collection, that can reach a wither target thanks to the more simple pieces added in the collection and the price of them, but still taking the more iconic, visual and impact pieces that are the more articulated version of the simple one.
104
MISSION Our mission is to extend the market to other nations like Russia and Middle East and also increase the numbers of retailers in Europe and USA. We want to reach from the 33 already existing retailers other 20 retailers plus other 3 online retailers.
105
106