Issue One // Summer 2020
INSPIRED Kno Media & Creative Theory Agency www.knoonline.com www.creativetheory.agency
PREAMBLE
Kno. is the validation for the invalidated. We celebrate and shed light on marginalized identities through storytelling and experiences for us and exclusively from us. Because for too long, our voices were underrepresented, and our stories transcribed without our input. Because our shared otherness is our unifying power. Because others need to Kno. our actual stories. KNO. MEDIA
Creative Theory Agency believes in the power of storytelling. We believe in the power of unique voices that give place and perspective to the experiences that shape our lives. We collaborate with brands that, like ours, value the nuances that make our world great. These moments of nuance are sometimes challenging and abrasive — but like calloused hands, the more we bear, the stronger we become. CREATIVE THEORY AGENCY
COVER ART
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Yi Xiao Chen
Ashlee Green Elizabeth Montague
DESIGNER
Clarize Metzger Casey Mattis
Yonas Rosario Dorian Gray Gwen Lewis
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Table of Contents 01
BIRTHING
PAGE 6
02
CYBER BLACK GIRL
PAGE 8
03
MEET BIDDY
PAGE 10
04
THE SEARCH FOR MENTAL SOLACE
PAGE 14
05
MEET THALIA GOCHEZ
PAGE 16
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THE UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE OF ILLUSTRATION
PAGE 20
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IDLE THOUGHTS FROM A NOT SO IDLE MIND
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08
THE REDEFINITION OF MODEST FASHION
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09
ONE PHOTOGRAPHER ON CAPTURING THE WOMEN IN HIS LIFE
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IT’S TIME FOR MORE BY HER
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“WE’RE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER”
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Birthing. BY ASHLEE GREEN
On January 31st, my husband and I learned we were pregnant. Neither of us is overly emotional. There were no tears, just calm, collected joy. In nine months we would become parents. A dream fulfilled, and prayers answered. Like any newly expecting couple, we experienced a period of exceptional anxiety. As a Black woman, I’m acutely aware of the staggering disparities in maternal and fetal health outcomes that exist in our communities. The miscarriages. The infertility. The gross negligence of our healthcare system. These things wore heavily on me for weeks on end as we navigated our way through our first doctor’s appointments, shared the news with close friends and family, and ultimately crested the first trimester. Compounding those fears and anxiety was the emergence of a global pandemic— an unprecedented and uncertain moment in our history. While we remain gainfully employed, safe at home, and in good health, the toll this new normal has taken is unmistakable. In my work as a creative entrepreneur that is seemingly always building and growing communities of color, this time has stripped away any semblance of normalcy and familiarity. Everyday is a balancing act between boundary setting, productivity, innovating, and creating. There is a not yet established new norm for communication and understanding with clients and partners. The unchecked desire and expectation for people to do more than they ever have, with less than they’ve ever had, runs rampant in creative spaces. As a friend, sister, daughter, and wife, the desire to be there to support those I hold dear has never felt so palpable. I need to protect everyone. I need to help everyone. I need to have the answers when nobody else does. I need to cook and clean everyday. I need to call and check-in on people, even if they don’t return the gesture. I need. I need. I need. But what about them? As a first-time expecting mom, I looked forward to all of the experiences that are so often enjoyed as families and communities celebrate a life being brought into this world— maternity photos, baby showers, registries. Even bumping around outdoors and at social events during summer months, taking in the endearing stares of loved ones and strangers alike. Despite the pandemic wreaking havoc on our country and the spaces we hold sacred, I know I am blessed. I just hope that that doesn’t also mean that I can’t mourn the way some things used to be. The people I miss, the experiences and events that will go virtual, and this pregnancy that will happen largely from inside my home, gazing out of our front window wondering what it all could have been like. Most importantly in all of this I hope we as a people can be focused on what and who we want to be on the other side. What we’re able to create. The normal that we want to make sure doesn’t come back because it was so devastatingly broken. And I hope that we know that just as I am blessed to be creating a new life during this time that will one day grow into a beautiful reflection of the best parts of me, we can all focus on birthing the work, the ideas, the creativity and the love that will reflect the best parts of humanity— on our terms.
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BIRTHING
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Cyber Black Girl
CONTEMPLATING THE RIPPLE EFFECTS OF RACE.
My work contemplates the ripple effects of race. These nuances are felt by all but seen by the few who know to look for them. I primarily focus on minority women in post-colonial societies. I strive to unpack Blackness as a cultural phenomenon in Western Society. Viewing race as a cultural experience rather than a biological fact, gives agency to people of every race to join in on the conversation. The accessibility of the internet and the universal reach of visual imagery allows us all to participate in this dialogue. I am fascinated by race as a social and cultural construct. The color of my skin has fundamentally shaped my human experience — as it did for my ancestors and will for my descendants. By allowing myself to be an expert on my own racial experience I become my own
WORDS
ART
Elizabeth Montague
Elizabeth Montague
best source for material. The ripple effects I feel are the ripple effects felt by many others, sharing the stories of black women, one of the most marginalized groups in the world, is essential. Stories lead to understanding, understanding leads to empathy, and empathy leads to equality. Through my work, I create an entryway for others to relate to me in the hope that it helps them relate to others.
CYBER BLACK GIRL
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WORDS
PHOTOGRAPHY
STYLING
HAIR
Clarice Metzger
Bri Alysse
Audolita
Joyishair
Meet Biddy: The 21st-Century Indian Girl THIS IS FOR BROWN WOMEN WHO DON’T FIT THE MOLD OF SOMEONE THEY’ VE BEEN TOLD TO BE.
Haya was nicknamed Biddy by her high school friends because it encompassed her multiple personalities. South Asian by descent, born and raised in Hong Kong and currently residing in Los Angeles, Biddy is an independent model who refuses to be placed in any box. Biddy works to represent brown women who don’t fit the mold of someone they’ve been told to be. “As an Indian woman, our society raises us to believe the perfect woman is fair, thin, obedient—the list goes on,” she says—all of which Biddy is not. We chatted with Biddy to hear more about life as a 21st century Indian girl.
was in as well as my own insecurities. I never fit in with girls of my own culture and, on top of that, all my friends were mainly Chinese or white. The Eurocentric standard of beauty is everything I’m not, which is why I shunned my own culture in the past. I always wanted to fit in and was never true to myself, my character or my culture when I was younger, but with time I grew more confident in my own skin and identity. I hated having a fat ass, curly hair, and big hips. I was constantly in the gym trying to shed weight, always straightening my hair, and only wore black clothes. As soon as I got off the school bus in the morning, I would go to the bathroom and slap on makeup before anyone could see me.
Give us a little overview of what you do and how you got started. When did you I was only confident because of my persorealize you wanted to be a professional nality, but despised my appearance—which model? is why I only dreamt of being a model. I was camera shy as hell for a few years, especiI always wanted to be a model when I was ally during the “emo” MySpace days, but I a kid, I was just heavily discouraged and warmed up to the camera when I started to lacked confidence due to the environment I embrace all the features I’d been trying to
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get rid of. Fast forward to a few years later, after moving to the U.S, I fell into modeling around two years ago. My best friend started taking random pictures of me on my couch, and I started getting messages to shoot, so I thought I was on to something. How do you identify? I have an identity crisis for sure. If I describe where I’m from geographically, it doesn’t make sense to anyone. I was born and raised in Hong Kong—in an Indian household—went to a British International school to study, where I was exposed to several different cultures whilst still juggling traditional Indian-Muslim values of my own home. Eventually, I ended up moving to the U.S. becoming even more westernized than I was growing up but still managing to maintain my cultural values. People always want to put me in a box when they meet me so that they can understand me better but I don’t think there is one box that categorizes my whole identity. It’s not everyday
MEET BIDDY: THE 21ST-CENTURY INDIAN GIRL
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that you stumble across a Muslim Indian girl who grew up on 50 Cent albums in Hong Kong. But the simplest way I could break it down to you is: My ethnicity is Indian, but it doesn’t make up 100% of my identity— hence ‘representing the unconventional Indian girl who doesn’t fit in a box.’ ‘Expat’ or ‘Global citizen’ would be the best word to describe me. What is the highlight of your career so far? The highlight so far has been the response. I love seeing young girls reach out to me with kind, supportive messages. The cultural identity struggle is real. I’m glad I can be someone they relate to or look up to, so they don’t feel alone. Everything else is really just gravy.
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What is the 21st century Indian girl and how do you embody her? The 21st-century Indian girl is care-free, bold, and unapologetic. I embody her by being my true self, something I neglected when I was younger when I wanted to fit in a box. I wanted to make everyone (including my parents) but myself happy. Now I really don’t give a fuck what anybody thinks about me. Social media can be an incubator for creativity and connectivity, but simultaneously harbors so much hate and violence. How do you see its impact on today’s young women?
There’s always a positive and a negative side to anything. Everybody wants their opinion heard, even anonymously. People just love to get a reaction out of people for likes and retweets, which can unfortunately lead to serious situations. People are obviously aware of the damages social media can cause, but cyberbullying and slut-shaming aside, I’ve recently seen more positivity from young women and men on social media. I think the current state of the world with all this negative energy is actually molding social media into a positive space. I’m seeing women hype other women, calling each other queens, retweets asking to drop skin care routines. It’s magical.
What’s next for Biddy? You’ll definitely be seeing more of me: shoots, brands, a possible YouTube Channel. I’ll be exploring new things, so stay tuned.
MEET BIDDY: THE 21ST-CENTURY INDIAN GIRL
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The Search For Mental Solace BY CASEY MATTIS
I could feel my head weighing heavy from staring up at the moon for so long. It was April 7th of 2020, the night of The Pink Moon—the largest moon of the year and the first full moon of spring. I was standing outside in the middle of the night in my pajamas; it was quiet, I could barely hear the soft breeze, had it not been brushing up against my ear. The wind made my eyes water. The night was tranquil, and I was lost staring at the stars above me, completely enamored by the moon’s beauty. I could feel the tension in my shoulders finally relax after weeks of built up anxiety from this global pandemic. Prior to being lost in the stars, I didn’t even realize I was clenching my shoulders until I could finally feel myself breathe calmer looking towards the moon. That night, just for a moment, I felt some sort of normalcy. The Pink Moon was so radiant, beautiful, and close to the Earth, for the first time all quarantine, I was able to find solace remembering that the Earth is still doing her job. It is very easy to feel defeated nowadays—there is no reason to get ready in the morning, there’s no commuting to be done, and since all Zoom meetings are viewed from the waist up, it’s hard to find the motivation to even bother putting on pants. In this world of constant data flowing through our fingertips, it’s hard not to feel anxious and over-stimulated with information. When our country’s leaders fail to agree on how to keep us safe, anxiety is a very natural reaction. Anxiety is the fear of the unknown, the fear of sudden change, and these days everything feels like an endless cycle of repetitive misery. It’s tough to remain hopeful when living in quarantine starts to feel more and more like the movie ‘Groundhog Day.’ Before COVID, I had spent months practicing self-care and working to overcome my mental anxiety, so I could live life a little lighter. I found a therapist that helped me manage my anxious mindset, and I started integrating meditation and journaling into my daily routine. Pretty soon, I was feeling open and optimistic about life again. When COVID hit, it was a major test of my newfound resolve. At first, I was knocked down—I’m not going to lie. But after that night I spent staring at space, gawking up at something much bigger than myself, I was reminded that despite all this unknowable chaos, some things are still going to be constant. The Earth and its celestial neighbors are still out there providing us with what we need to keep moving forward. While we are chained to our homes, Earth still rotates. With humans being forced to lower their pollution output, the planet has been able to take a breath, and has responded in an extraordinary way to our new daily habits. Mother Earth is speaking back to us, telling us how to best love her. With so much pending unknown around us, I try to stick to what remains constant in life, in order to retain some sense of normalcy. The faith in knowing that no matter how stuck I feel, Earth keeps on moving. That no matter how dark the night gets, another dawn is just around the corner. And that after the heaviest rain comes the brightest rainbows. I’m confident that tending to my mindset will provide the inspiration I need to see that light at the end of the tunnel. And just like finding the motivation to put on pants everyday, we all just have to deal with our struggles one leg at a time.
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THE SEARCH FOR MENTAL SOLACE
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Meet Thalia Gochez THE ARTIST CELEBRATING LATINX IDENTITY.
In her latest project, with Nike and Girlgaze, Los Angeles-based photographer Thalia Gochez highlights unsung heroes igniting positive change in their local community. The daughter of Salvadorian and Mexican immigrants, Thalia has created a platform for women of color to be represented the way that they should be. Her photographs are genuine depictions of women taken in their communities offering space for conversation and self-representation. We chatted with Thalia about the importance of representation, where she draws inspiration from and learnings from her latest project. Give us a little overview of what you do and how you got started shooting. I am a film photographer, creative director, and fashion stylist. I started shooting a couple years ago, around when Trump got elected. I used my creativity and need for expression to cope with the political climate but also for fun! I started shooting my friends in their communities. I saw the beauty within their neighborhood and wanted to highlight it in a positive way. It started off simple— I wanted to shoot folx that looked like me and I connected with on a cultural and ancestral level. Where/who do you draw inspiration from in your art? My childhood and culture, my dreams, current emotions, Mexico, El Salvador, corner stores, old film photos of my family, dollar stores, street vendors, flea markets, folx on public transportation, people of color, natural lighting, mundane interactions on the street—the list goes on. Inspiration is a daily exploration and ever-changing, but a common thread throughout the list is authenticity. I am inspired by authentic living. Talk to us about representation. Why is this something you choose to focus on through your art? When I was in fashion school, I hardly saw any representation of my narrative, culture and identity and I wanted to start creating content I connected to! I want to give the next
MEET THALIA GOCHEZ
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generation of brown kids something to connect to and get inspired by—I see my work as a cultural archive. How would you say your photography is a form of activism? My art is just expressing my experience and the people I love. My goal wasn’t to be an activist—I’m just learning how to navigate and exist in these institutions that weren’t built for people like me to succeed. I do that by highlighting and holding a safe space to the best of ability through my art for my friends and people of color in the community. I’m not afraid to speak and bring awareness to issues that directly affect marginalized communities. However, I know my limitations as a lighter skin Latinx and very mindful of the space I take up. I want my contributions to the community to be an equal exchange, and never exploitive or performative. I am here for real interaction, real healing, real solutions, positive impact. There’s so much I have yet to learn and I’m constantly learning how I can be a better ally to all intersectionalities. Tell us about your experience with the Nike x Girlgaze project. In the Nike x Girlgaze project, we highlighted unsung heroes igniting positive change in their local community—a perfect fit for me! It was an incredible experience with a steep learning curve. I’ve never experienced that level of production and although the attention is nice—the most rewarding part of it all was overcoming the mental burden of not being “good enough.” I learned that I have to have the courage to constantly challenge myself and what I think I can do creatively in order for me to grow into the womxn I know I’m destined to be.
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WORDS
PHOTOGRAPHY
Clarice Metzger
Thalia Gochez
MEET THALIA GOCHEZ
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The Universal Language of Illustration “THE DIALOGUE AROUND ETHNIC MINORITIES IN THE AUSTRALIAN CO N S C I O U S N E S S H AVE A LWAYS B E E N A S T H E ‘ OT H E R .’ A RT CA N B E A M E D I U M THAT SERVES TO CENTER THESE FACES AND STORIES .”
While Australia has long considered itself an immigrant nation, there’s no question that it is a far more racist country than its people like to admit. Yi Xiao Chen is a first-generation Chinese-Australian artist and general practitioner whose work is geared towards opening up the lines of communication surrounding ethnic minorities in the country.
medicine and art, Yi views duality as a notion that is at the core of everything and believes “that opposing elements can be in the service of a common purpose.” We chatted with Yi about the meaning and importance of multiculturalism, where she draws inspiration from and her current frustrations with today’s society.
Having lived her entire life between two cultures whi- Where/who do you draw inspiration from in your le being immersed in the two vastly different fields of art?
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I draw inspiration from the stories of ordinary individuals and their families, their personal struggles and triumphs, and the different ways they uphold traditions from their homeland. I often collect images of old family photographs, personal memorabilia, letters and handwritten notes, cultural artefacts and historical remnants of the mundane and personal. This way, I can gather inspiration from the traces of past lives of ordinary people, and form a connection with people across a different time period and culture.
le. My vocation consists of both art and medicine, and day-to-day, I tend to have to make the switch between the two and separate those parts of my identity. But ultimately, I think that duality is at the core of everything, and that opposing elements can be in the service of a common purpose. What does being a woman today mean to you?
Being a woman in this day and age is a privilege that the previous generations of women have fought hard for. I How do you identify and what does your identity never take for granted the opportunities and freedom mean to you? that I enjoy today, and the ability to pursue my interests and passions freely. I identify as a Chinese-Australian woman and a first-generation immigrant. In terms of gender, I’m a cis fema- Historically, and still today, the cards have been stacked
THE UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE OF ILLUSTRATION
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ARTIST
Yi Xiao Chen
WORDS
Clarice Metzger
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“Representation creates normalisation and amplification of these marginalised voices, and highlight the richness and beauty of their traditional cultures.” against women across the majority of cultures and in most countries. Being a woman today, in a privileged country and society, there is a sense of responsibility to continue to champion the rights of women around the world. What frustrates you the most about today’s culture? Much of today’s contemporary culture, with its over-saturation of constructed imagery, sound bites, information and misinformation, infiltrates every aspect of our daily lives and establishes a cultural hegemony that serves to uphold its model of profit and consumption. The result of which has the effect of distracting from, rather than leading us towards the truth. What do you hope people take away from your art? I hope my art can open up lines of conversation about cultural identity, belonging, unity of diverse peoples, and connection to our shared histories. Talk to us about multiculturalism. Why
is this something you choose to focus on The dialogue around ethnic minorities in through your art? the Australian consciousness has always been as the ‘Other.’ Art, and portraiture, in Multiculturalism is the celebration of both particular, can be a medium that serves to our diverse cultural differences and the center these faces and stories. Representaticollective human experience. It is a theme on creates normalisation and amplification that is very dear to me, as a first-generation of these marginalised voices, and highlights immigrant and as a daughter of immigrants, the richness and beauty of their traditional who, like many others, share the common cultures. experiences and struggles of adapting to a new culture and customs. This exhibition pays tribute to those who have, for decades, contributed to champioAustralia is arguably the most multicultu- ning the voices and presence of their comral country in the world yet this status has munities in the public sphere. Likewise, it been fraught with a long history of conflict is paying tribute to those whose lives were and tension. There have been efforts made lived in the domestic sphere, in particular towards unity and peace, particularly in women, whose immense contributions to the ‘70s under the Whitlam government, their families and local communities are ofto encourage cultural pluralism and the re- ten overlooked but are no less important to tention of one’s traditional cultural practi- be recognised and celebrated. ces without fear of discrimination. Nonetheless, the continuation of such discourse What’s your positive message? must be upheld, now more than ever, to stem the ever-present undercurrent of hate That we continue to use art and story-teland distrust in our society, whose ebb-and- ling to appeal to our common humanity, flow, in its various manifestations and chan- build bridges and challenge existing mindging targets, dates from the earliest colonial sets. Art, with its ability to evoke our basest years. human responses and emotions, can achieve what politics and mainstream media can-
THE UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE OF ILLUSTRATION
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not, in speaking to the personal; the innate, biological need for human connection and understanding. Upholding human rights and the preservation of human dignity and justice can only be achieved through collective effort and hard work. 2019 has been a tumultuous year thus far, but I have seen a vast amount of kindness, empathy, and dedication from inspiring individuals who continue to work hard for these goals, and in turn inspire others, such as myself, to do the same.
THE UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE OF ILLUSTRATION
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Idle Thoughts From A Not So Idle Mind BY CLARICE METZGER
Like you, I’ve been trying to figure out life in quarantine — and endlessly scrolling through Instagram and Twitter where there is no shortage of quarantine advice. “This is an opportunity!” “Stay positive!” “Remember to breathe!” “Record a podcast!” “Do nothing!” “Learn a new language!” “Feel how you feel!” they all shouted. Underneath all this conflicting advice, I could only hear the whispers of my mind telling me: “Sis, if you don’t use this time to figure out your finances, continue to build your creative platform, learn a new skill and prepare for your future, you’re doing this whole thing wrong.” So naturally, for the past seven weeks, that’s what I’ve been doing. I’ve been keeping busy. I’ve been learning new things. I’ve been writing a lot. I’ve been productive. And it’s been going great — until it wasn’t. The exhaustion hit my brain like a wave washing over my entire being. I took a day to rest but couldn’t shake the fatigue weighing me down. I know this sounds overly dramatic—full transparency, some would deem me an overly dramatic person—but I’m the type of person who is always on the go. I thrive in fast-paced environments. I love learning and trying new things. I’m always looking for ways to grow and innovate. All this to say that slowing down and taking a break just doesn’t come naturally to me. How to slow down during a globe-crushing, health system-flooding, soul-jerking pandemic? Even more foreign. The reality is that you—looking at the people whose brains don’t turn off—like me, have not the slightest clue how to adjust to this new norm and we’re desperately working to maintain just a shred of control. I think that’s how we’re coping. Working our asses off to achieve whatever we’re looking to achieve makes us feel better, and it’s what we know how to do best. And our best is all we can do right now. That being said, be kind to yourself. Finishing that project during Day 45 of quarantine vs. Day 48 really won’t make much of a difference. Take it easy. Listen to your body when it’s telling you to slow down. You deserve the break. Be safe and stay well.
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IDLE THOUGHTS FROM A NOT SO IDLE MIND
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The Redefinition of Modest Fashion
MEET THE DIGITAL CREATOR TURNED DESIGNER SPEARHEADING THE MOVEMENT.
“Inclusive” is the latest buzzword in fashion as most brands are trying to adapt their styles to keep up with our evolving definition of what the word actually means. 20-year-old college student, digital creator, and influencer Nawal Sari is on a mission to prove that inclusivity is more than a buzzword through the redefinition of modest fashion.
How did you start designing? I am a digital creator and influencer who focuses on fashion and beauty. I incorporate my faith and cultural identity into what I do also. I would have never thought I would end up designing, let alone in conjunction with what I do online. When Hijab House reached out to me to further our relationship through collaborating on a collection, I was beyond excited. I have [a] close alliance with the team, and they helped launch me into the modest fashion scene a few years back when I started. They believed in me and understood my vision and now I am launching my own line with one of the world’s biggest modest fashion labels.
Born and raised in Sydney, Australia, Nawal has developed a strong sense of appreciation for the “buzzing colors of culture, the wide range of creativity and drive for success the community holds despite the negative stereotypes associated with it.” As a young Muslim woman, Nawal leverages the power of social media to document her own take on modest fashion while encouraging other Muslim women to explore fashion’s infinite avenues. She’s also started designing to share her view Share with us how you view your identity. of modest fashion with the world. My identity is something I love and strive to underWe chatted with Nawal about her entrance into the stand as I feel I am constantly in an identity crisis. I was fashion world, the cultural impact of Hijabi bloggers born and raised in Australia, Lebanese on my father’s and the importance of identity. side, English Australian on my mother’s side. Within that, my parents are diverse with Turkish and Scottish last names and ancestry. I am also Muslim, a Hijabi, a
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The Hijab is empowering, a symbol of feminism, limitless and most importantly worn to demonstrate submission to God and worn as a reminder of Islamic values such as generosity, kindness and honesty.”
THE REDEFINITION OF MODEST FASHION
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creative, and a full-time student, retail worker, and influencer. I’ve been raised close to my Muslim and non-Muslim family, sharing cousins with traditional names such as Mohammed and Max. My Aussie freckles from my mother’s side on the very common Lebanese trait of a prominent nose from my father’s side have always been a conversation starter. Being all of these things are something I’ve had to myself understand and appreciate to find belonging in. I’m not your conventional Australian, Muslim, or Middle Eastern girl, and I definitely don’t fall into a box that sums up who I am. Talk to us about the Muslim community in Sydney. How would you say the rise of Hijabi bloggers is shifting the culture forward? The Muslim community here is large and very diverse, in saying that it’s also very closely knit, and everybody knows each other in some way. We are also still establishing ourselves with a sense of belonging. At most our grandparents migrated here from overseas so [we] are made up of first- and second-generation immigrant families. Traditions from overseas and [those] norms are still present and taught so the adjustment to Western norms while balancing cultural tradition and religion tend to be obvious obstacles with our youth.
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In Sydney, the Hijabi community is large and it is very common to see the Hijab, although the digital world and its entrepreneurial capabilities I feel aren’t as known to us as it is overseas with influencers and creatives. There are very few Hijabi bloggers in Sydney and I feel it’s more apparent in cities such as Melbourne. Sydney does have more of a sense of the strive to fit in and being okay with the safeness of stereotypes as there’s more belonging in it. With that comes more close-minded people and fewer expressing fashion creativity. What does modest fashion mean to you and how are you redefining it? Modest fashion to me is how I can be stylish and creative while respecting the Hijab. Every Muslim girl has their own narrative and definition of what modest fashion is and how they want to express it. My drive to redefine modest fashion means to me that I can help change the perspective of the Hijab. Oppression, blandness and a male-enforced power are all negative associations of the Hijab, but they are far from what the majority of Muslim women experience with the Hijab. With [the] campaigns I do, collaborations I take part in, and fashion looks I post, it’s all in aim to show how it really is to us Muslim women. The Hijab is empowering, a symbol of feminism, limitless, and most importantly, worn to demonstrate submission to God and as a reminder of Islamic values such as generosity, kindness, and honesty. Where/who do you draw inspiration from in your designs? It came from all sorts of avenues such as high fashion runway pieces, both current and new, trendy pieces I love but needed a more modest flare and 90s early 2000’s streetwear with the bold colors and patterns. I get inspired from cities, music and my surroundings in general, it’s safe to say the collection is a reflection of Nawal. What’s next for Nawal? I hope big things. I have learned to manifest things I want into the world since I would never have thought I would end up here initially. I want to grow more as a person, travel A LOT and make a bigger impact for my sisters. Inshallah.
WORDS
PHOTOGRAPHY
Clarice Metzger
Nawal Sari
THE REDEFINITION OF MODEST FASHION
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One Photographer on Capturing The Women in His Life DORIAN GRAY TALKS US THROUGH HIS PROJECT “CORREE” AND HIS TAKE ON IDENTITY
“Growing up looking at my mother and other women in my life, they were always easy on my heart, mind, and soul.” “Green has the healing power and is understood to be the most restful and relaxing color for the human eye to view.” This was the inspiration for this visual story. Growing up looking at my mother and other women in my life, they were always easy on my heart, mind, and soul. Especially my mother, who knew how to calm and uplift when I was upset, and give joy and peace constantly. There was a constant green color dripping from her, and has never left her. Identity is the fact of being who or what a person or thing is. Having a unique identity will set you apart from everyone else. We all have a certain image of ourselves - beliefs about the kind of person we are. Having a strong sense of identity seems to be desirable, something that brings comfort and security. Many people seem to spend a lot of time trying to figure out who they are, what they want, and what they believe. And
perhaps rightly so: having a strong identity certainly seems to have advantages. Identity is hard to change. Identity can be difficult to notice. Identity has unintended consequences. If you are willful, and careful, and wise, then you can cultivate the identity of the person you always wanted to be. creative, full-time student, retail worker and influencer. I’ve been raised close to my Muslim and Non-Muslim family, sharing cousins with traditional names such as Mohammed and Max. My Aussie freckles from my mother’s side being placed on my very common Lebanese trait of a prominent nose from my father’s side have always been a conversation starter. Being all of these things are something I’ve had to myself understand and appreciate to find belonging in. I’m not your conventional Australian, Muslim and or Middle eastern girl I definitely don’t fall into a box that sums up who I am.
PROJECT
PHOTOGRAPHY
REFLECTION
Corree
Dorian Gray
Dorian Gray
ONE PHOTOGRAPHER ON CAPTURING THE WOMEN IN HIS LIFE
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It’s Time For More By Her AND IT STARTS WITH THE ADVANCEMENT OF FEMALE CREATIVITY.
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WORDS
PHOTOGRAPHY
Clarice Metzger
Gaby Deimeke
What does it take to replace the ‘starving artist’ concept with that of a ‘thriving artist?’ Brand builder, strategic marketer, artist advocate, and creative entrepreneur Anisa Benitez founded the creative platform More by Her to help answer that question. A New York native born to Cuban and Nuyorican (Puerto Rican New Yorker) parents, Anisa couldn’t envision herself in a creative field growing up. “My family had sacrificed too much to live in the U.S., we were low-income, and I didn’t personally know a woman who was making a comfortable living as a creative,” she shares. Fast forward to today and Anisa has built a career in marketing with major brands like Google and TIME and is continuing to evolve into the artist she’s always wanted to be. We chatted with Anisa to learn more about her work as a marketer, what identity means to her and how we can all play a role in dismantling the starving artist stigma. Give us a little overview of what you do and how you got started in marketing. I’m now a marketing consultant with over 7+ years of experience with top brands like Google, YouTube, TIME Magazine, Entertainment Weekly, Fortune Magazine, and RCA Records within Sony Music Entertainment. I’ve also been using my marketing skills towards More by Her, a platform I founded to highlight creative women who are shaping our culture. I fell in love with marketing in undergrad. I was obsessed with behavioral economics, and the psychology behind the way people made decisions. As a creative and strategist, marketing is a fulfilling blend of the two. My first marketing role was for my college’s, Smith College, executive leadership conferences for women. It wasn’t meant to be a marketing role, but I advocated to take on growing their social channel and taking on marketing duties to make it so. Then interned in the music industry, on the entertainment side and absolutely loved it. “I will leverage my marketing skills to support artists,” was my work mantra. After graduating, I started at Sony Music in Promotions Marketing for RCA Records. After that, I moved to Time Inc. for a subscription marketing & new revenue acquisition role. I also did marketing
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Afro-latina, Black, Latinx, a woman, she, her… My identity is important to me because it carries history; Stories of all the people who fought for my identity to be recognized and treated as equal.”
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consulting for startups and small businesses. Then I’ve been at Google for the past 3 years, most recently as a Brand Marketing Manager for YouTube Music. Marketing is storytelling; it’s continually evolving. I’m grateful to have built my career around learning how to make people care for things I value: supporting artists and creatives across music, media and other spaces. How do you identify and why is your identity important to you? Afro-Latina, Black, Latinx, a woman, she, her. My identity is important to me because it carries history — stories of all the people who fought for my identity to be recognized and treated as equals.
they could be shifting culture through what they create. I deeply admire all the women on More by Her; each is sharing their perspective through their work and creating a more inclusive future for all. Here is some visual context about my story. How can we all play a part in dismantling the ‘starving artist’ stigma? We have to start by shifting our mindsets, our internal narrative first. Most of us have been conditioned to believe the ‘starving artist’ stigma. Only after re-examination can we can change the external narratives and drive change through action. I lead workshops on this, so please reach out for further inquiries: morebyher@gmail.com.
Why did you decide to create more by her? More by Her serves as a platform and community that aims to dismantle the ‘starving artist’ stigma by highlighting creative women who are shaping culture. We share the stories of the #ThrivingArtist across a diversity of backgrounds with the intention to: •
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Strengthen the pipeline of women in the arts and creative spaces by providing others transparency into what a creative future could look like. Shift unequal power structures and cultural beliefs by promoting creative women and supporting their work. Show the diversity of creative paths.
Growing up, I couldn’t envision a creative future for myself, despite being a very artistic kid. My family had sacrificed too much to live in the U.S., we were low-income, and I didn’t personally know a woman who was making a comfortable living as a creative. “I will not be a starving artist,” I declared myself.
What frustrates you the most about today’s creative landscape? Economic disparity – that there is actually SO MUCH wealth and abundance invested in creative spaces, but it’s not distributed fairly. Where it’s mainly invested, there is also a lack of diversity. I’ve witnessed it first-hand in marketing — seeing massive budgets go to creative agencies of pretty much all white (and already wealthy) men. What do you want people to take away from your work with More By Her? That they are powerful. That in unleashing their creative power, they can shift culture. That they don’t need to ‘starve’ to be creating. That their unique perspective matters.
Against my proclamation, today I’m an artist: actor, a dancer, model, writer, speaker, and creator of More by Her. I’ve also realized the power that we unleash by creating and recognize that so many people suppress this power. They believe the ‘starving artist’ stigma and don’t continue to express themselves creatively or pursue what brings them joy. It’s tragic to me! Especially because
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“We’re All In This Together” With A Hint Of “Life On The Other Side” BY GWEN LEWIS
I didn’t yet know for how long our lives would be changed or how deeply society would be cut. As always, when holding uncertainty, I knew it was time to talk to God. About a week into Philadelphia’s stay-at-home order, safely at home with my family, I got in bed to pray. For the first time, I didn’t know what to pray for. It’s not that I’m unfamiliar with prayer. Growing up as an anxious child, in a religious household I was taught early to cast my burden on the Lord. So, I did. At 4 years old, when I watched my mom survive and recover from brain surgery, I spent so much time in prayer that I must have exhausted my preschool vocabulary. Communicating my worries and wishes to God became second nature. I developed a go-to line to cover myself and my loved ones. Some variation of that line has appeared in my nightly prayer for over 20 years. “Please help me and everyone I love wake up safely in the morning.” I used it in the early days of the COVID-19 pandemic. Then, I’d read a headline or watch the news. My loved ones were healthy, but around the world, each morning, a suffocating amount of people weren’t waking up. Something about my staple line started to feel empty and selfish. I needed to try to protect more than just my circle. It morphed. “Please help as many people as possible wake up safely tomorrow morning.” “Please help all those grieving to somehow find peace.” “Please help this to end, illogically soon, so the maximum amount of people’s loved ones, including my own, can still be here tomorrow morning.” The current world has a pervasive aura of fear and grief. While it’s not directly my own, I can’t escape helping to bear it. We say pandemic. Really, we mean prolonged trauma. No matter where we are, we’re having a collective experience. With shared experience, comes understanding. With understanding, comes compassion. Collective compassion looks like me, in Philly, dissatisfied with praying for the safety of only those that I love and needing to include the wellbeing of strangers. It looks like my definition of people “I love” being expanded to just mean “humans.” I started to think: what if, on the other side of this united vulnerability, is a united fellow feeling? Revisiting my toolbox for managing anxiety, I reread The Power of Now, by Eckhart Tolle. In the chapter, “The Meaning of Surrender: When Disaster Strikes,” he explores pain as a vehicle for a rise in consciousness that jolts the singular human out of their egotistical bubble and into a larger experience, shared by every living soul. He encourages us to know that there’s another side to tragedy, “a complete alchemical transmutation of the base metal of pain and suffering into gold.” If the only way to save the lives of people we don’t even know is to make changes to the way we live our own, then maybe more of us will feel less divided. If we must sit alone with ourselves in this reality, then maybe we’ll become more connected to the lifegiving energy that flows within us, so much so that we can recognize it in those who are, otherwise, nothing like us. Maybe, on the other side of this tragedy, the gold will be us, continuing to be so keenly aware of the experiences of other beings that we still feel tenderly enough to send to them well wishes, through prayer or whichever medium we hold sacred even when there’s no immediate danger.
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“WE’RE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER”
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Issue One // Summer 2020
INSPIRED
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