Savour Magazine fall:winter 2013

BRITISH COLUMBIA MADE

a look inside Vancouver’s

GOURMET

Hawksworth Restaurant Best of Savour

Recipes Culmina Winery FALL/winter 2013

wine • golf • water • homes

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fall/winter

contents Kelowna’s Fab Five 16

Okanagan Spirits 30 Hawksworth Restaurant 10

Culmina Family Estate Winery 20

In this issue...

From the Editor........................ 5 Dish........................................... 8 Meating of the Minds............. 24 Two Rivers SPECIALTY Meats

Winemaking in B.C................ 26 Featured Winery..................... 36 Desert Hills Estate Winery

Reality Bites............................ 38 4

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

Schreiner on Wine.................. 40 Winter Wine Picks.................. 42 Savour spots........................... 44 Savour it’s ............................... 46 Book reviews........................... 47 Winery Tasting notes.............. 48 Recipes.................................... 50

from

GOURMET

Founder & Editor-in-Chief:

Chytra M. Brown

Art Director:

Donna Szelest

Copy Editor:

Peg Monro

Contributors:

John Schreiner Roslyne Buchanan Rhys Pender, MW Cassandra Anderton Laura Goldstein Jim Martin

Cover photo: Shawn Talbot Photography Unless credited, all photos are submitted or taken by staff.

Publisher:

Craig N. Brown

Director of Sales: Roy Kunicky

Savour Magazine is published quarterly.

Copyright (2013) www.savourmag.com Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement No.7296429.

Publication Mail Agreement No. 41835528 SAVOUR is published every quarter and is independently owned. Opinions expressed in SAVOUR are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher or advertisers. SAVOUR does not assume liability for content.

All rights reserved. ©SAVOUR Magazine.

Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. For reproduction requests, email requests to info@savourmag.com.

theeditor s

ince it’s inception, the

mandate of Savour Magazine has been to highlight and bring awareness to the food and wine culture in B.C. Four years later, we feel satisfied in having reached our goal. I believe we (Savour) have been the catalyst to an increased awareness of the wine and food culture in B.C. We take great pride being at the forefront of a food and wine revolution in our province.

Over the past four years, readers, advertisers and contributors have embraced Savour Magazine. We thank all of you. We are proud of what has been accomplished and believe that due to the overwhelming volume of wine and food coverage, demands on the advertisers and limited marketing budgets, it’s time to make a change. As print becomes less sustainable or effective, Savour Magazine will no longer produce a print publication. A final edition, Fall/Winter 2013, will be published and released in November 2013. In an effort to become a more sustainable business, we will continue building our on-line and social media audience.

Savour’s on-line readership has shown strong growth over the past two years. The on-line reach of over 100,000 is much greater and offers a wider audience than the print edition of 25,000 readers. The on-line presence is substantially more dynamic and offers readers up-to-the minute, timely information. With this shift in focus we are able to deliver real time updates, and significantly more effective marketing and greater value for advertisers.

Working with a community of writers, Savour Magazine will continue to deliver an awesome on-line experience for readers focusing on the stories that make beautiful British Columbia a food and wine mecca!

Thank you for your support of Savour Magazine. For the latest updates, visit savourmag.com.

If you would like to comment or send a note please email me at editor@ savourmag.com.

Chytra Brown Like us on facebook: facebook.com/SavourMagazine

info@savourmag.com

Follow us on Twitter: twitter.com/SavourMagazine

PRINTED IN CANADA

for up to date food & wine news, articles, seasonal recipes, tasting notes, or to download the digital version to your iPad

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013 5

contributors CASSANDRA ANDERTON is a freelance wine, food, spa, lifestyle and travel writer and broadcaster. She appears regularly on "Breakfast Television," and can be heard on "Foodie Fridays" on NEWS1130. Cassandra was born in New Zealand, grew up in the Okanagan and has made Vancouver her home for the past 25 years. Passionate about local food and wine, Cassandra loves travelling to learn and report on what others are doing to promote their local culture.

JOHN SCHREINER, based in North Vancouver, B.C., is Canada’s most prolific author of wine books. He has authored 12 books since 1984, including three Whitecap bestsellers: British Columbia Wine Country, The Wineries of British Columbia and John Schreiner’s Okanagan Wine Tour Guide. A companion volume, John Schreiner’s Coastal B.C. Wineries Tour Guide, was released in April, 2011.

ROSLYNE BUCHANAN is a freelance writer based in Penticton, B.C. located above the Naramata Bench. She is a regular contributor to Savour Magazine. After retiring from The City of Calgary as communications strategist in 2009, she moved back to where her journalism career began as a Penticton Herald reporter/photographer in 1978.

RHYS PENDER, MW is very connected to the wine industry in B.C. He operates a wine education school as part of his company, Wine Plus+ and is a qualified judge for many wine events.

LAURA GOLDSTEIN has written features for national magazines and newspapers for over 15 years including Canadian House & Home, Style at Home, The Globe and Mail, The National Post and Food & Drink. She combines her love for the arts, design, travel, food (and eating), meeting fascinating people and snooping through fabulous homes as a never-ending source for articles. Laura is based in Vancouver.

As a new resident she relishes the daily city life.

Real Women...

Cut the CHEESE .

MAD E

JIM MARTIN has been involved with the wine and spirits industry for more than three decades. Originally from Vancouver, he started with the provincial BCLDB and discovered a passion for wine in 1977 when he stumbled across a 1975 Bordeaux. This led to delving further into wine appreciation through education, constant tasting and evaluation of the different regions of the world. He now works at Waterfront Wines in Kelowna, where he shares his thirst for wines with customers.

BRIT ISH

COLU MBIA

On The Cover: e

MET GOUR

sid R’S a look inou VanC Ve ReStauRant

ofur stvo BeSa

Recipes

VOLUME 4

4.95 CAN

ISSUE 16 •

170 UPPER BENCH ROAD SOUTH, PENTICTON T. 250 770 1733 WWW.UPPERBENCH.CA

Hawksworth Restaurant's

Beef Short Ribs

Hawksworth

ina CulWim neRy FALL 2013

Slow cooked beef short ribs with black pepper, Asian pear, charred long bean and aromatic herbs.

PHOTO BY SHAWN TALBOT

Awarded · World Class Distillery Classification 2013 · Distillery of Year 2013 · Spirit of the Year ~ Blackcurrant Liqueur (97.7points) Double Gold Medal ~ Blackcurrant Liqueur Gold Medal Winner ~ Cherry Liqueur, Raspberry Liqueur, Taboo Absinthe, and Aquavit - 2013 World Spirits Competition, Klagenfurt, Austria

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Canada’s Only ‘World Class Distiller y’ www.okanaganspirits.com

Shop Online In The Okanagan We Make More Than Just Wine

• Fruit Liqueurs • Eau de Vie • Absinthe • Gin • Vodka • Whisky

dish

By Chytra Brown

w

e were fortunate enough to celebrate the season’s bounty at several events over the past few months including several wine makers dinners, wine tastings and award ceremonies.

In early August we attended a dinner served in the new wine cave at Seven Stones Winery in Cawston. The food was fresh, light and delicious, particularly the Maple almond kale salad and crispy asparagus spears all lovingly prepared by Mobile Morsel Catering from Penticton. The cave was a stunning venue for the event and around 30 people were in attendance. It is underground and lies just under the winery and the proprietor’s (George Hansen) residence.

The cave is part barrel/cellar room while the other half is used for events. The cave was a dream of Hansen’s beloved spouse, Viviane (who is now departed) and built in her honour. The Seven Stones cave is a perfectly temperature controlled environment and uses little to no energy, other than lighting. To get more information about events at Seven Stones Winery sign up for their newsletter or visit sevenstones.ca

The Okanagan Wine Festivals Society kept busy with a slew of events during the summer months and we were glad to see the return of the wine tastings at Silver Star.

This year the gang at Silver Star presented a weekend-long series of events, including wine makers dinners, mountain biking and hikes through lush forest and alpine meadows.

8

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

Twenty-two wineries poured their samples on Saturday night to fresh tunes and a gorgeous mountain breeze. Read more about the event and Silver Star Mountain on savourmag.com.

And during Okanagan Pride Week, "Viva Las Pride" was introduced for the first time. A joint venture bringing together the Okanagan Wine Festivals Society and Okanagan Pride for a festive wine tasting event. Viva Las Pride took place at the Laurel Packing House on August 16th. Get your tickets for the event early next year! Visit thewinefestivals.com.

We attached a few of our favorite photos from the event. Enjoy!

A new wine competition has been announced in B.C. The Okanagan Wine Festivals Society has partnered with the Kelowna Museums Society to create the British Columbia Wine Label Awards. The competition will honour B.C. wineries whose labels present excellence in creativity and ingenuity.

This competition will be held during the Fall Wine Festival. For information about this or to purchase tickets to any of the Fall Wine Festival events visit thewinefestivals.com.

Exciting news for the Okanagan and Chef Rod Butters and Audrey Surrao, the much anticipated, micro bar • bites is set to open this fall. The small space is sure to

dish

Wine Country, Your Way This Winter

be a popular retreat for local foodies and visitors. All woodwork is being done by local wood craftsman, Will Brundula who has constructed the 65-foot bar of reclaimed wood, a trestle community table, front door and bar top. Chef Butters jokes that the space is so small that “we don’t even capitalize the ‘m’ of micro!” Internationally acclaimed architect Timothy Bullinger from Arca3 Design Studio in Vancouver designed this casual environment. Bullinger has designed homes for several stars including Phil Collins, Vidal Sassoon and Georges Marciano and the Vancouver restaurant, Miku.

The European flavor will extend to the glassware at micro with beer, cocktails and wine served in simple tumblers.

No fancy stemware here. The creatively simple approach of micro bar • bites continues with a pared down bar and food menu, and the launch of barrel-aged cocktails, with international beers and wines all offer guests a fresh experience. Chef Butters is already playing with unique twists on his creatively simple, small bites menu. micro bar • bites is located just a couple doors down from RauDZ on Water St. in Kelowna. You can follow the process of creating micro bar • bites on twitter, facebook and instagram.

Facebook.com/microkelowna twitter.com/microkelowna microkelowna on instagram To get in on the full Dish, visit savourmag.com

Warm up this winter on the West Kelowna Wine Trail, where our welcoming staff offers daily wine tastings.

Stock up for holiday gifting, entertaining, or après ski, and be ready for your family and friends.

WINE SHOP OPEN SEVEN DAYS A WEEK

May 1 – October 30, 10am – 6pm November 1 – April 30, 11am – 5pm

MT. BOUCHERIE FAMILY ESTATE WINERY 829 DOUGLAS ROAD, WEST KELOWNA BC V1Z 1N9 250-769-8803 • TOLL FREE 1-877-684-2748

Talk to us on Twitter @mtboucheriewine Like us on Facebook www.facebook.com/mtboucheriewine Join the Mt. Boucherie Wine Club!

www.mtboucheriewinery.com

Hawksworth Restaurant

Homage to a bygone era where food, service and cutting edge design converge to create an unparalleled sensory experience

b

illie Holiday’s soothing vocals create the vibe. Gazing

up at the art deco-inspired gilded rosettes strewn across the rich chocolate mahogany and marble interiors of The Rosewood Hotel Georgia, it’s difficult to imagine Executive Chef David Hawksworth wading through its rubble while envisioning his dream restaurant just three years before.

The Hotel Georgia originally opened its doors in 1927 during U.S. prohibition. The elegant little gem attracted a celebrity clientele the likes of Katherine Hepburn, John Wayne, Bob Hope, Nat King Cole, Louis Armstrong and later, Elvis Presley and The Beatles. The Georgia Bar & Grill space fell into disrepair in the late ‘60s and remained empty for years. David Hawksworth, a native Vancouverite, kept the idea of this prime location simmering in the back of his mind.

In the meantime, he moved to London, England where he honed his culinary expertise for 10 years working in Michelin–starred kitchens such as Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, L’Escargot and The Square.

“London is a much more difficult place to work. I saw pans flying on a daily basis there,” admits Chef Hawksworth. “Egos are toned down much more in this city.”

Returning to Vancouver in 2000 to head up the kitchen at West Restaurant & Bar, he garnered numerous accolades from Vancouver Magazine’s Restaurant Awards and in 2008 Chef Hawksworth was named to Western Living Magazine’s “Top 40 Under 40”. He became the youngest chef inductee to the B.C. Restaurant Hall of Fame.

Still obsessed with the merits of opening in the legendary Hotel Georgia across the street from another heritage building, the neo-classical Vancouver Art Gallery, “I thought, if I could only get to speak with the owners I could convince them of the potential of Hawksworth Restaurant in their hotel.”

This is when serendipity played her trump card.

One evening friends of Chef Hawksworth were dining with another couple at West. He prepared a very elaborate fish soup he knew his friends enjoyed. Unbeknownst to him, their guest was Bruce Langereis, the President of Delta Opposite: Vancouver artist Brian Boulton's graphite drawing of Chef Hawksworth.

By Laura Goldstein Land Development who owned The Hotel Georgia.

“Three weeks later we had inked the deal and I left West!” says Chef Hawksworth. “You have to realize that this is a very harsh industry—you have to move fast if you want something—there are no soft landings here.”

Toronto’s award-winning interior design firm Munge Leung, which created the stunning $120 million remodel of The Rosewood Hotel Georgia, developed an immediate simpatico with Chef Hawksworth.

They had a shared vision of his restaurant that included part subliminal seduction and flawless choreography of food and art that would illicit an emotional connection with patrons of any age.

“I’m a very visual person and Alessandro (Munge) and I travelled to New York, Las Vegas and San Francisco visiting 13 restaurants, viewing all kinds of art, including the avante garde pieces using real butterflies that resemble intricate stained glass windows by British artist, Damien Hirst.” (Chef Hawksworth had met the controversial artist previously while working in London in the ‘90s.) His signed limited edition Big Love In Diamond Dust is a shimmering silkscreen featured in the Hawksworth Cocktail Bar. “We wanted understated glamour for the restaurant not pretense,” explains Chef Hawksworth.

The restaurant opened in May 2011 after numerous construction delays. The 3,000 square foot restaurant is divided into four distinct spaces that flow languidly into each other. They are designed to compliment Chef Hawksworth’s unique take on contemporary Canadian cuisine.

The Cocktail Bar, a rather sensual, intimate space with a Spanish granite and leather-wrapped bar encircled in chrome, plush corner banquettes and sculptured organic ceiling, “serves some of the best modern and classic cocktails in the country,” says Chef Hawksworth.

These include some pre-Prohibition specialties with botanical infusions, house-made bitters and unusual craft beers. He has even brought back the Plymouth Gin Cocktail, a 1945 recipe from the original Georgia Hotel bar that combines a mixture of orgeat syrup (almond flavoured with orange blossom water), fresh lemon juice and frothy egg whites. Paired with his “Bar Bites” such as KFC-Korean Fried Cauliflower, Market Fresh Oysters and Spicy Yellow Fin Tuna, they are informal, pre-dinner teasers or a casual destination in themselves.

Glimpsed from The Cocktail Bar, a spectacular 20-foot art deco-style chandelier composed of 400 Czechoslovakian crystals entices you into the glam elegance of The Pearl Room. The chandelier was designed

by Alessandro Munge (“a $35,000 splurge,” grins Chef Hawksworth).

12

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

Venetian plaster walls that incorporate real pearl dust in their embossed Japanese cherry blossom relief are a spectacular backdrop for Chef Hawksworth’s culinary celebration of Vancouver’s cultural diversity.

When an oversized white soup bowl is brought to the table with an abstract of red lobster, crispy pink prosciutto and crunchy green peas on only half of its surface, I gaze in anticipation at the unfinished canvas. A ladle of vibrant green pea and nettle soup is added at the table. Hamachi sashimi with passion fruit, puffed rice, scented lemon grass and sea asparagus, so tiny that even Charles Darwin would be flummoxed, is presented with a coconut sorbet and a surprise kick of chili on the tongue.

From curated vantage points in the 40-seat Pearl Room, a, floor to ceiling glass wine cellar showcasing 4,000 plus bottles is not only oenophile eye candy. Designed with rolling drawers specifically sized for wine bottles, there is also a practical workstation so that sommeliers can pour, taste and make notes on the spot. A 12-tap “Cruvinet” nitrogen wine preserving system offers a large selection of wines by the glass.

With plans to increase their already platinum selection of European producers, Chef Hawksworth has also cemented his relationship with the award-winning Orofino Winery located on the Cawston bench in the B.C. Similkameen Valley. The winery produces several branded H’s-Blend wines available exclusively at Hawksworth Restaurant.

Polished mahogany open arches in The Pearl Room reveal just enough of the kinetic puzzle pieces of B.C.-born Rodney Graham’s Psychomania Variation III installation to arouse one’s curiosity about the 40-seat Art Room next door. Creating the illusion of a much larger dining space, the multi-panelled liquitex on linen abstract (surprisingly inspired by the ‘70s British zombie movie of the same name) is mounted behind soft leather banquettes and provides a completely different dining ambiance.

The most formal and intimate of the four spaces is the 1920s inspired private York Room with its gold embossed original crown moldings, vintage crystal chandeliers and floor to ceiling stained glass windows with views of the Vancouver Art Gallery. “This room was really important to me,” explains Chef Hawksworth, “because there are endless opportunities to host private functions here with a capacity that varies from 60 to 110.”

The Hawksworth Restaurant kitchen is not exempt from the most The York Room

hawksworth restaurant

Psychomania Variation III in the Art Room cutting edge design and appliances just because it’s not in plain sight.

The 1,200 square-foot space is dominated by a cobalt blue Garland Cooking Suite; separate stations for meat, fish, hot and cold appetizers, garnishes and pastries; a Pacojet ice cream maker; and computerized Convotherm oven. The KDS touch and display screens on which all food orders appear make for not only a paperless, environmentally friendly kitchen, but a quiet one.

“I really don’t have a signature dish, admits Chef Hawksworth “because everything is created not only seasonally but with daily sourced fresh ingredients in mind. I try to add a new dish every week but am certainly accommodating to patrons who ask for their favourites. Our award-winning team (Kristian Eligh, Chef de Cuisine; Wayne Kozinko, Pastry Chef; Bryant Mao, Wine Director; Chad Clark, General Manager; and Cooper Tardival, Head Bartender) meet often to discuss ideas and ensure absolutely everything is running smoothly.”

A staff of 140 and up to 700 platings a day also includes the Bel Café (named after Chef Hawksworth’s British wife, Annabel). The hip, European-style eatery at the hotel’s south entrance, serves his signature gourmet sandwiches, pastel macarons and specialty coffees and teas.

“We’re already in year seven or eight of our business model,” beams Chef Hawksworth. “But I’m super competitive,” he confesses. “I needed to be that way in the UK and certainly with all the great restaurants in Vancouver, I have to stay two steps ahead to keep us on top.” Maclean’s Magazine recently named Hawksworth the “Restaurant of the Year”. But he doesn’t rest on his laurels, always striving to be more creative and incorporating the newest global food trends into his repertoire.

Chef Hawksworth is a huge fan of 85-year-old sushi master, Jiro Ono, The York Room with views of the Vancouver Art Gallery, can accommodate receptions from 60 to 110.

hawksworth restaurant

The intimate Cocktail Bar boasts a leather-wrapped Spanish granite top bar. owner of the Michelin three-star Tokyo restaurant, Sukiyabashi Jiro.

He was so excited after viewing the documentary “Jiro Dreams of Sushi” that he and Chef Eligh flew to Japan to meet the master chef in person!

There is not the smallest detail that appears to have escaped the Munge/Hawksworth artistic collaboration, conversely, nothing can be construed as overkill in the restaurant. From the clever “H” logo designed

using simple utensils and subtly ascribed to pins worn by his staff, to Vancouver artist Brian Boulton’s graphite drawing of Executive Chef Hawksworth in his whites portrayed from behind which suggests he is contemplating something – his next tour de force perhaps? photos supplied by Hawksworth Restaurant

Perfectly placed to make fine wine and good friends.

tinhorn.com

five miles of fabulous grape fun

a

the Unique Characters of The Fab Five Wineries

long a maze of roads that wind through orchards and vine-

yards in East Kelowna you will find a region of wineries known as The Fab Five. The area offers stunning vistas and award winning wines, all within a five mile radius. East Kelowna is also a cyclist and runners paradise. The wineries love it for the grape growing conditions and tourist offerings. The Fab Five wineries teamed up to enhance the visitor experience and increase traffic to this unique, eclectic wine country destination. And eclectic it is, from towering metal rose sculptures to psychedelic artwork, there is something for everyone.

By Chytra Brown Each of the Fab Five wineries offer their guests a relaxed, comfortable atmosphere and unique experience. They take pride in the region, their vineyards and the quality of the wines produced. The View Winery encourages a diva-esque attitude; SpierHead Winery produces luscious pinot noir; and Camelot Vineyards offers a medieval theme.

At The Vibrant Vine elegance meets funk, while House of Rose Winery creates fun, memorable, one-of-a-kind experiences. From grape stomping to medieval, this unique group is sure to enchant visitors and locals alike.

The View Winery The View Winery, winner of the Kelowna Chamber of Commerce 2013 Business Excellence Award for Tourism and Hospitality, is located at the corner of Spiers and Ward Road in a historic packing house. Winery president, Jennifer Turton-Molgat says it's the only one of its kind left in Kelowna. The history of the farm offers a wonderful juxtaposition of old and new, and ties well to the cachet of The View trademark – a sexy red shoe. Playful comedy and divaness abound in the winery and TurtonMolgat wears it well. It is rare to catch her without a pair of red footwear, whether it is a sexy pair of stilettos or fashionable rubber boots.

When driving up to the winery, the first thing you will notice is a large metal sculpture of a red shoe. Kelowna artist, Jock Hildebrand created the sculpture and it is a telling symbol of the whimsical nature of The View.

Turton-Molgat believes in producing approachable, non-pretentious wines. She is often seen pouring at wine tasting events (dressed in red, of course) and takes her role as “Head Diva” very seriously. Her influence is pervasive, from the design of the tasting bar to the wine labels.

No detail is overlooked. The clever marketing and wine packaging are flawless.

The View Winery embraces the rich farm history and life-style of its home base and the farm-to-table philosophy is incorporated into both The View wines and Wards Hard Cider (named in honour of Jennifer’s great-grandfather George Ward).

Of all the varietals produced at The View their specialty, the Pinotage, is unique. You can also expect to be won over by the Distraction Frizzante or the new release of Fossil Fuel – a blend of pinotage and baco noir.

SpierHead Winery Literally minutes away is SpierHead Winery named for it’s beautiful, scenic location on Spiers Road. Impressive wines are offered in a brightly painted wine shop tucked in amongst gorgeous green vineyards.

SpierHead has been receiving accolades ever since the first vintage was celebrated in 2010.

A spacious picnic area and scenic view await you. The staff will welcome you like family. Team members Paul and Meena Cleland greet

guests, the marketing representative, Dan French, also tends bar on occasion, Lisa Jensen oversees vineyard operations, and the winemaker is Bill Pierson.

SpierHead is well on its way to fulfilling the ambition of becoming known as a quality producer. Expect exciting things in the coming years as they prepare to develop a series of vineyard designated pinot noir.

The Vibrant Vine The Vibrant Vine stands out among the colorful characters of The Fab Five. What started as a retirement project for Wyn and Marion Lewis rapidly turned into a full-time hobby. The Vibrant Vine houses a larger property known as “The Okanagan Villa”, the owner’s home. Guests are welcome to enjoy the English-style gardens planted around both the Villa and Vibrant Vine buildings.

The 3-D tasting room is one-of-a-kind. And yes, they give you 3-D glasses! One of the first things to catch your eye is the colorful artwork of Phil Lewis, the proprietor’s son.

The Vibrant Vine is a strong advocate of supporting community and participates in many local events. During the Okanagan Wine Festival, $5.00 was donated to the United Way with every purchase.

The winery offers 10 varietals including labels OOPS and Pirate Chardonnay – names which suggest a whimsical attitude and approachable drinking wines.

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013 17

the fab five

18

Camelot Vineyards

House of Rose Winery

Exciting medieval charm awaits the more adventurous at Camelot Vineyards. Guests encounter heavy iron gates and a replica of the Excalibur sword at the entrance. Inside the gates is a small tasting room with six wines on offer. Poppy, the winery dog, is almost sure to make your acquaintance. Hundreds of guests attend the annual “Medieval Fare” to participate in sword fights, archery and enjoy some Camelot wines.

Proprietors, Rob Young and Denise Brass were destined to meet and operate a business called Camelot. Denise says that before meeting Rob, she was told by a spiritualist that, one day, she would live in a place called Camelot. When she met Rob and learned his father named both his North Vancouver home and Okanagan orchard “Camelot”, she knew it was kismet.

Running a winery may look like a piece of cake for this couple. They divide their time between operating the winery and working as flight attendants for Air Canada. Denise looks after the winemaking and the bulk of cellar work, while Rob manages the vineyards. “Down time is not something we know about”, says Denise. Camelot’s manager, Fiona Price, keeps the day-to-day operations running smoothly.

Camelot plans to release a reserve merlot that will be available in limited quantities.

House of Rose Winery has a goal — to be the happiest winery around. Aura Rose and Wouter van der Hal strive toward that everyday.

The winery is named for the Rose family and has been producing wine for three generations. Whimsical labels like Hot Flash and 50 Shades of Grape suggest the playfulness that comes naturally to Rose and van der Hal. The winery is located on Belgo Road only a few minutes from downtown Kelowna. The property is bright and spacious, and the comfortable surroundings offer guests a sense of belonging. Rose and van der Hal work non-stop to create fun, family-orientated events that will appeal to the public. “We want people to have a good time,” states Rose, “and bring their picnic baskets and join us for an afternoon”. Rose is the winemaker, and both she and van der Hal work on the wine labels and marketing.

There is true sense of being in nature on site at House of Rose. Yet, among all the green vines and rose bushes that line the parking area, you will find three wonderful metal rose sculptures of varying heights.

The sculptures were commissioned by the winery and created by artist Roland Dirks, owner of Middle Bench Metal Works. A 20-foot high sculpture was produced in honour of the winery’s 20th anniversary in 2013. It’s an impressive piece that weighs over a ton and required more than 50,000 hammer strokes to create. Dirks also fabricated a metal bench adorned with grape motifs.

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

Rose and van der Hal are currently working with local organizations to become an accredited “Green Tourism” winery. Sustainability is important to their operations. They have implemented several "green" practices to date including the use of Eco Glass in the bottling program the installation of an air source heat pump in the winery, and a reuse and recycling program for their staff.

The winery hosts an annual grape stomp that is a must. Rose boasts about her newest addition to the stomp, a special barrel made by Okanagan Barrel Works called the “I Love Lucy” barrel.

The wineries of The Fab Five look forward to greeting you.

kelownafabfive.ca camelotvineyards.ca houseofrose.ca spierheadwinery.com thevibrantvine.com theviewwinery.com wardshardcider.com

WINERIES Five Miles of Fabulous Grape Fun 33 Belgo Rd.

97

Dilworth Rd.

oulin

Rd.

Reid Rd.

Benv

East Kelowna Rd.

KLO Rd. Spiers Rd.

Okanagan Lake

Hollywood Rd. S

Gordon Dr.

Springfield Rd.

The Harvest Golf Club

Pooley Rd.

Garner Rd.

Hart Rd. Ward Rd.

THE VIEW WINERY

#1 - 2287 Ward Road www.theviewwinery.com

SPIERHEAD WINERY

3950 Spiers Road www.spierheadwinery.com

CAMELOT

3489 East Kelowna Road www.camelotvineyards.ca

THE VIBRANT VINE

3240 Pooley Road www.thevibrantvine.com

HOUSE OF ROSE

2270 Garner Road www.houseofrose.ca

KELOWNAFABFIVE.COM

CULMINA

Family Estate

Winery

t

here are new wineries popping up quite a bit these days and

one of them is causing a buzz in wine circles. Culmina Family Estate Winery is the dream of Don and Elaine Triggs.

In 2006, Don, of Jackson-Triggs fame, marked the end of a corporate wine career which began in 1972 when he joined the wine division of John Labatt Ltd after spending several years in marketing with ColgatePalmolive. Then, in 1989 Labatt’s Brewery sold off its wine division.

Along with three partners and 26 employees, the Triggs sunk their life savings into purchasing the division. The company eventually morphed into Vincor becoming the fourteenth largest wine company in the world.

By Jim Martin

In 2006, Constellation Brands bought it for $1.6 billion. As a result, Don emerged well fixed for life. But Don and Elaine only took a few months off before looking for new challenges in the wine industry that they love.

This culminated in the purchase of land in the south Okanagan for a new vineyard and winery. The decision was solidified when their daughter Sara joined Culmina in 2012 as sales and marketing manager to help her parents bring their dream to life.

Great wines start in the vineyard. So, the Triggs’ began the quest to find the perfect vineyard site for their dream. Don had a pretty good idea of the potential of both the Okanagan Valley and the Niagara regions.

an interview with chef schooten

They settled on the Okanagan for the area’s consistent ability to ripen the varietals that Don and Elaine were hoping to plant. Now they had to find the perfect vineyard to plant their vines.

To help them in this pursuit, they hired Alain Sutre, a Bordeaux-based viticultural and winemaking expert. His company, Ertus Consulting, focuses on vineyard and winery project management and the analysis of the entire wine production process. Over the coming year, the team looked at numerous properties that had some potential. Finally in 2007, they settled on 44 acres on the west side of Golden Mile Bench and started a series of temperature, water retention and soil analyses before the final purchase. Only 14 acres of the 44 were already planted. Some wine was made from these 14 acres and, while it was good, it just wasn’t what the Triggs were looking for. So the 14 acres were replanted with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc along with a small quantity of Syrah and Gewürztraminer. The Triggs named this vineyard “Arise Bench” as a tribute to a 10 acre plot of land that Don’s maternal ancestors farmed in Barbados.

During their many hikes over the surrounding terrain above Arise Vineyard, Don and Elaine wondered about the possibility of higher elevation vineyards. Further water, soil and temperature studies resulted in the purchase of an additional 60 acres. The highest vineyard was named “Margaret’s Bench” after Don’s mother. Grapes planted are Riesling, Chardonnay and Grüner Veltliner. The vineyard below was named “Stan’s Bench” after Elaine’s father and planted with a mix of Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Riesling. In total, the new property contained 23 acres of farmable land spread across three different elevations and numerous soil types. These variations would contribute different attributes to the entire vineyard; a higher elevation vineyard means only certain grapes can be planted.

Over the next two years more analysis was done before a single vine was planted. With 66 soil pits dug to three feet deep throughout the vineyard sites, the team was able to distinguish and create individual blocks of land.

Each block averaged 1.3 acres and reflected the

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013 21

culmina family estate winery

soil variation over the whole vineyard. Based on the results, a list of grape varieties was compiled and the final selection was made according to which varieties would grow best. A further selection of rootstocks and clones were chosen to provide the best growth in the soils within each small block.

But before planting could commence, the soil needed to be prepped.

The soils were deep-tilled and aerated while an estimated 3,500 tons of rock were hand-picked out of the vineyard. To enhance the soil, 84 truckloads of composted cow manure were applied and a cover crop of fall

Creatively Simple _ Open daily at 3

mic ro bar • bi tes

rye planted to improve the organic content and to prevent soil erosion.

Hand split untreated cedar posts and galvanized steel in-line posts were selected to hold the trellising, to stay away from using any unwanted chemicals in the vineyard.To monitor the drip irrigation system, a solarpowered, Ranch-Master monitoring system was installed. Developed

by Ranch Systems of Novato, California, this wireless, real time system allows for observation of all climatic characteristics within each block. It is an extremely powerful tool allowing the vineyard manager to monitor specific areas.

FOOD SHOULD BE FUN.

- thomas keller

Our own Chef Butters would absolutely agree with this great quote from famed Chef Thomas Keller. Chef Butters has always subscribed to the philosophy of serving organic, sustainable and naturally raised ingredients and to concentrate on pure & simple flavours with a fun presentation. Who says great food has to be boring or pretentious? Join us for our twist on the ultimate burger - the ‘RJB’, our ‘BLT’ with Okanagan Sockeye, or the Canadian classic poutine with chicken leg confit. Fun food? You bet!

- Chef Rod Butters and Audrey Surrao

1500 Water Street, Kelowna www.microkelowna.com

Open 7 days a week from 5 p.m.

Connect with us on facebook, twitter and instagram @microkelowna

1560 Water Street, Kelowna

Proud members of RauDZ Creative Concepts Ltd.

RauDZ

250•868•8805

www.raudz.com

culmina family estate winery

test for “Bush Vines”. These vines are nonirrigated, non-trellised and grown to resemble a bush.

The winery was completed this past spring and opened for business on August 23. The flagship wine, Hypothesis, will be the first to be released – a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Petit Verdot and Malbec will be added to the 2015 vintage.

This wine represents all the care and attention that has gone into the vineyard. The Triggs hope you think so too.

PHOTOS BY LIONEL TRUDEL

The vineyard is unique in B.C. as it is a “high-density” planting. While most vineyards are planted with approximately 1,100 vines per acre, high-density allows for almost twice that. Special equipment was imported from France to accommodate the narrow plantings.

While determining which vines to plant, one of the varieties considered was Grüner Veltliner. A cool-climate, winter hardy Austrian variety, the Triggs were fascinated with its potential and chose to plant just over two acres on two different rootstocks. They have called it their “wild card” variety.

The Triggs are also experimenting with “Dry Land Farming”. Just over half an acre has been planted with Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon as a first-of-its-kind

MEATING

minds

of the

Two Rivers Specialty Meats

By Chytra Brown

t

wo Rivers Specialty Meats is a

wholesale meat company focused on supplying restaurants and consumers throughout B.C. with ethically raised products that are free of hormones, antibiotics and chemical feed additives. Two Rivers may not be a household name yet, but owners Jason and Margot Pleym are hoping to change that. It’s possible that you have consumed Two Rivers meats and not even realized it.

Two Rivers is on a mission to educate and inform consumers about the foods they eat.

Plans for a direct-to-consumer channel is in the works, along with the introduction of an on-line service in the new year. A few months ago, the company introduced the sale of freezer packs (a combination of beef, chicken and sausages) to the general public. Two Rivers also works with the Vancouver-based, organic products home delivery company SPUD.CA. According to Jason, this collaboration has been beneficial in branding the Two Rivers name and creating awareness of the importance of “you are what you eat.”

The company started out small and has grown to 30 employees in the last five years.

The Pleym’s giggle when they talk about the “old days”, a time when the company was just the two of them and one employee in an office the size of a closet. The company started out selling only beef and now offers chicken, pork, duck, venison, elk and game bird products.

The Two Rivers story started back in the summer of 2007. Jason and Margot had left their city jobs to work for a rafting company 24

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

and were living in a converted yellow school bus on the banks of the Kicking Horse River. They were certainly having fun, but realized that this was not the ideal arrangement in which to raise a family. Both had business connections – Jason from his days as a sales representative for another meat company and Margot had worked in marketing. They thought about the possibility of starting their own meat distribution company based on high standards, quality and integrity. After all, Margot’s father owned a beef ranch in Pemberton – Pemberton Meadows Natural Beef. From there, the rest just fell into place, but not without challenges. Jason comments on the reaction that occurred when they started Two Rivers, “We drove a truck right through the meat industry,” five years ago. At the time, Two Rivers was really the first company to specialize in this type of meat packaging and distribution.

When asked what the biggest challenge is for Two Rivers Jason replies, “Ensuring we will always have the products to meet the demands. For example, Fraser Valley ducks are in short supply and are somewhat small this year.” This presents challenges in being able to meet the needs of customers. “We are always looking for new networks with farmers in order to meet the demand.” Having such rigorous quality standards also creates a higher cost — a challenge that Two Rivers and Jason must continually address. “Our goal is to educate our customers and consumers that our product is natural and therefore costs a bit more. When our competitors offer a product that they claim is natural at a lower price, it’s a challenge trying to explain that the two cannot be compared, it’s apples to oranges when you buying quality.”

In the original warehouse location,Two Rivers employee Owen is busy creating all kinds of charcuterie for the restaurant industry.

He and Jason routinely look for new and creative ways to utilize various cuts of an animal that would otherwise go to waste. Jason is passionate about looking for ways to use offal in a creative way that chefs and consumers will love. It’s not so easy to find uses for such things as ox tongue, heart, kidneys and liver. He has created symbiotic relationships with many chefs, who also happen to be his customers, and consults with them about the needs, desires and wants in their menus. It’s no surprise that Jason was awarded “Supplier of the Year” from Vancouver Magazine’s “Top 40 under 40” in 2011.

Two Rivers is well known among most B.C. chefs and they work closely to create delicious

menu creations for the consumer. Jason is still very involved in the sales end of the business and routinely visits his customers and suppliers to keep up to date. Chef Roger Sleiman, Executive Chef, The Old Vines Patio at Quails’ Gate Winery in West Kelowna is a supporter of Two Rivers product and features it exclusively on the Old Vines menu. Both Jason and Margot are very proud of the relationships they have with their customers and suppliers.

Two Rivers is well on its way to bridging the gap for consumers to understand the connection between where your food comes from to what’s on your plate.

For information about Two Rivers suppliers and where the products are sold, visit

tworiversmeats.com.

PART II:

changingFaceof

The

winemaking BC

in

By Rhys Pender, MW

This article is a continuation of the “Changing Face of Winemaking in B.C.” that appeared in the Summer 2013 issue of Savour.

s

itting in tank, barrel and bottle in wineries across

British Columbia is the largest vintage on record. In 2012 an estimated 1.97 million cases of B.C. wine were made. It is a good time for producers to reflect on the industry and look at what they are doing in terms of wine style and why. Important deliberation is needed to consider where B.C. wine is going and, in the face of increased production, how is the industry going to sell everything it makes? The philosophy of an industry is incredibly important.

Maybe it is time for the B.C. wine philosophy to change?

The large 2012 vintage is the result of intensive plantings between 2006 and 2008. During that time there was a distinct shortage of B.C. wine. Boom sale years and rapidly growing demand saw a predictable planting surge to correct the imbalance; vineyard acreage increased 50% during that time. Shortly after this expansion, the much-publicized financial crisis put the brakes on double-digit sales growth. Typically, the influence of the plantings should have come earlier, but harsh winters in 2008 and 2009 and the subsequent need to replant many vineyards delayed the increased production until 2012.

In the world scheme of things, 1.97 million cases is not a lot of wine, but because most B.C. wine is sold within the province and sales are increasing only slowly, selling the extra cases via status quo methods may prove difficult. Hence the need to have another look, not just at where the wine is sold, but at the style of wine made and how it is made. Lowering what many see as high prices may seem like a logical step to increase wine sales.

However, the reality shows that it is expensive to make wine in B.C. due to the very high labour and equipment costs on a global scale. A few producers who purchased their vineyard land back

26

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

winemaking in BC

when the prices were a tenth of what they are today may be able to offer less expensive wines, but the industry as a whole will never be able to compete with much the lower productions costs in dozens of other countries around the world.

So, the answer lies in making top quality wine. This is something that B.C. can certainly do, but a change in mindset is required in order to do it properly. There will be many arguments and differing opinions, but to make really good wine I believe that the wine must reflect where it is grown. Good, technically sound wine, can be and is made around the world. Some B.C. producers have been quite successful following this approach, but the wines are not special. B.C. will make distinctive, top quality wine only when it starts making wine in the vineyard and farming grapes to express the unique terroir. Winemaking techniques need to

enhance and preserve, rather than cancel out that terroir. Planting the right grapes in the right place and then aiming at quality not quantity has to be the refrain; this philosophy can build a successful region. Such success cannot be dictated by the demands of making money and big profit margins — it must be about passion. Eventually passion will make money and build a sound reputation along the way.

The good news is that this focus on making great wine in the vineyard is starting to happen, albeit on a small scale. The best vineyards are starting to show their character. Winemakers are embracing this philosophy and highlighting the expression of the site and vintage. Development of sub-regions with recognizable characteristics needs to follow. Singlevineyard wines in which a sense of place is identifiable from year to year must become a focus.

winemaking in BC

Winemaking techniques are key to this terroir, quality driven approach. Increasingly, winemakers will realize that by using expressive grapes, avoiding the temptation to manipulate them into something homogenous and letting the taste of where the grapes are grown shine through, will reap great benefits. These techniques will help to define distinctive B.C. wines, regions and vineyards, and will build a quality name. Such a reputation will not be built on contrived brands and fancy marketing strategies. Over time, it will be based on the raw combination of the right grape, grown in the right place, and wines made with a low intervention attitude to let nature express itself. A philosophy to put B.C. wine on the map.

Stop by and see us at the entrance to the Naramata Bench

• • • •

Breakfast & lunch Takeaway meals & catering Coffee bar Grocery

From the earth Comfortable Old World charm with a New World approach

368 Vancouver Avenue, Penticton, BC 250•492•2222 thebenchmarket.com

A taste of Tuscany in your own backyard Open for lunch & dinner | 11.30a - 9p | Reservations recommended | +250.498.2229 887 Road 8, Oliver, British Columbia

www.terrafinarestaurant.com

winemaking in BC

spirit...

OKANAGAN SPIRITS

that's the

By Roslyne Buchanan

a

t the “World Spirit Awards”

in Klagenfurt, Austria, Okanagan Spirits was awarded the status of “World Class Distillery” and “Distillery of the Year for 2013”, a remarkable feat for such a young distillery. The competition attracts over 118 craft distilleries worldwide and is dominated by well-established European distilleries.

When asked if this recognition was a surprise, Rodney Goodchild, Sales and Marketing, said, “We were not completely astonished because we have great raw material and have always believed in our commitment to quality.

Still, it is amazing given it was only a few years ago that we became Canada’s only Master Class Distillery.”

All 10 spirits entered by Master Distiller Peter von Hahn received recognition including a double gold medal, four gold medals and five silver medals. The Black Currant Liqueur received the highest points ever scored by a product at a World Spirits event.

“Perhaps most rewarding,” says Goodchild, “was the showcase the next day where we provided tastings at our booth. The tasters represented a sophisticated international audience and were highly complimentary of our products.”

Owned by the Tony Dyck family, Okanagan Spirits is defined by passion and staunch spirit with its vision for the future supported by such accolades. It was an ode to the British Columbia fruit industry from the beginning when Frank Deiter, original master distiller, founded Okanagan Spirits in Vernon in 2004 to ensure a secondary market of uncompromising quality for the less attractive and excess of the crops. These exquisite spirits are 30

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

made in traditional copper pot stills from 100% B.C. fruit without additives, chemicals or artificial flavours; they scoop awards domestically and internationally.

The biggest challenge is antiquated liquor laws which govern how liquor is distributed and sold in B.C. and severely impacts profit margins and cash flow. Okanagan Spirits is also proactive on that front and works collaboratively to affect progress. CEO Tyler Dyck serves as President and Spokesperson for the Artisan Distillers Guild of British Columbia (The ADG of BC), which was founded to increase awareness and spur the growth of a viable artisan distilling industry. The ADG of BC strives to engage government to create an “open regulatory environment enabling growth” to allow direct distribution and sales as well as a lower markup rate (down from 170%) for product.

Today, Okanagan Spirits products include liqueurs, Eau de Vie (fruit brandy), Marc (similar to Italian Grappa), premium gin, whisky and vodka, absinthe and aquavit. Exciting news is the soon-to-be-released small batch Single Malt Whisky. Named the Laird of Fintry, it has been aged six years in French and American Oak and subjected to ongoing taste tests by the Okanagan Spirits team with scotch connoisseurs. The first batch made entirely from B.C. malt is described as “smooth, nonpeated and combines solid forest notes of toasted oak with more delicate tones of vanilla, plum, raisins, caramel and spice.” With only 210 bottles in this batch, a lottery draw early in October will allocate the whisky.

Lottery participants include those who sign up on-line for the Okanagan Spirits special newsletter about the whisky.

The liqueurs are designed to impart the natural full taste of the fruit without being overly sweet. The flavours include Raspberry, Cherry, Blueberry, Blackcurrant, Cranberry, Blackberry and Sea Buckthorn. It is recommended to serve them chilled or over ice as a digestif, or include them as an ingredient in cocktails or desserts.

To create the Eau de Vie (fruit brandy), the 100% B.C. fruit is fermented two to 12 weeks before being double distilled in an Alembic Brandy Copper Pot Still and then cut with locally sourced spring water.

The resulting Schnapps-style brandy can be enjoyed neat, over ice or as a component in cocktails and cooking. Given that there are no sugar additives, it is gluten-free. The line up includes Poire Williams (Bartlett pear base), Canados (mainly distilled from Hyslop crab apples), Italian Prune, Old Italian Prune (late maturing, tree ripened blue Vielle prune plums), Raspberry Framboise, Kirsch Danube, Kirsch Virginiana (wild cherries), and Apricot (a limited edition from local Tilton apricots).

Farm to

TABLE

The farm to table experience has been a part of my family since the 1920s when my Great Grandfather George Washington Ward began cultivating this land which is now home to sprawling vineyards of Pinotage, Riesling and Gewurztraminer.

Harvest season at The View is colourful, rich and bountiful. We look forward to bringing our farm to your table every time you share a bottle of View wine with your family and friends. Cheers!

It’s easy to find us....just look for the red shoe.

- Jennifer Turton-Molgat

Open Year Round April-Oct | Daily | 11:30 am – 5:30 pm Nov-March | Weekdays | Noon – 5 pm www.theviewwinery.com The View Winery 1-2287 Ward Rd., Kelowna, BC (p) 250 860.0742 or (c) 250 215.1331

okanagan spirits

The tasting rooms offer a unique experience and Okanagan Spirits is a proud supporter of the local community.

generations

of Stewart’s have been farming land.

Our father, Richard stewart, identified that this 1 place, the Okanagan Valley, and more precisely the site of was destined for greatness. In 1961 he planted the first vinifera Chasselas in his quest to grow quality grapes. His curiosity spurred our family s Today we CELEBRATE over 50 years of growing grapes a year, from 1 valley, 16 grape Okanagan Valley. For VARIETALS our focus is consistent; to be Canada’s leading quality wines, namely, PINOT NOIR and Chardonnay.

,

’

365 days

32

magazine • SUMMER 2013

passion

okanagan spirits

The Marc, which is in the style of an Italian Grappa and a means to use the pomace (skins, pulp, seeds and stems leftover from winemaking) is also run through the traditional copper pot still before it’s cut with B.C. spring water. One of the Okanagan’s premium wineries, Gray Monk Estate Winery, is the source of the pomace which results in awardwinning spirits of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir and Riesling (Okanagan Marc). Drink these as a digestif or in the traditional Caffè Corretto – an Italian beverage with a shot of grappa, espresso and sometimes sambuca or brandy.

The gin, whisky and vodka are part of what Okanagan Spirits dubs “The Essential Selection”, that is three mainstream spirits crucial in any home or professional bar.

While they can be used as a base for a creative cocktail, this premium collection can be enjoyed neat or over ice on their own. In 2013, Okanagan Spirits plans to release a fruit-based version of gin.

Taboo Genuine Absinthe is the spirit which first put Okanagan Spirits on the map. With

• handmade Japanese kitchen knives • knife sharpening by hand • classic shaving gear

CALGARY

KELOWNA

OTTAWA

2983 Pandosy St. Kelowna, BC 778-478-0331 www.knifewear.com

okanagan spirits

botanicals including anise, fennel, lemon balm hyssop, petite wormwood and the essential Artemisia Absinthium (grande wormwood), it is produced to original European recipes that use fruit alcohol as opposed to grain.

Complementing it is the Taboo Gold (2012) which is a limited edition product distilled in small single batches once a year.

The Aquavit called Aquavitus encompasses fennel, anise, juniper berry, coriander, dill and caraway creating an exotic array of taste on your palate. Suggested uses are as a digestif, in cooking and baking, or a flavour-packed component in a cocktail. It is said to assist in the digestion of rich foods and is a traditional part of Christmas dinner in Denmark, Norway and Sweden.

Taste and purchase these products at the Okanagan Spirits original location in Vernon or at its showroom in Kelowna. Ogle the gorgeous copper stills at either location and learn about the distillation process at a demonstration. You can also order on-line or buy from the many specialty liquor stores that stock it.

The tasting rooms offer a unique experience and Okanagan Spirits is a proud supporter of the local community. A good fit with the 34

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

fresh and local food movement, key partners include tourism organizations, BC Fruit Growers’ Association, Okanagan Chefs Association, the chefs and bartenders from fine restaurants such as Sparkling Hill Resort, Predator Ridge, Ricardo’s Mediterranean Grill, RauDZ, Waterfront Wines and Bistro, the Delta Grand Okanagan, Poppadom’s and Local Lounge Grille.

Encouraging creativity, Okanagan Spirits offers recipes and now stocks Bittered Sling Extracts.

Handcrafted by award-winning bartender Lauren Mote and Chef Jonathan Chovancek of Vancouver, you can spice up your drinks with essences such as Orange & Juniper, Grapefruit & Hops and Plum & Rootbeer.

That’s the spirit indeed.

okanaganspirits.com

Craving more GOURMET

...

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includes: expanded BC food and wine coverage interactive videos audio clips slideshows and more!

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GOURMET

Desert Hills

an award winning South Okanagan Winery

By Chytra Brown

u

nlike childhood fables, the story of Desert Hills Estate

Winery did not follow fairytale dreams; it is the culmination of the dreams of three brothers whose ideas and hard work came together to create what is now Desert Hills Winery. Although the three brothers did not all arrive in the Okanagan at the same time, it was destiny for them to come together to create Desert Hills Estate Winery. The Toor family has always been close, according to Randy, and visited the Okanagan many times throughout the 1980s to vacation and visit their sister, Lucky. This was the first love affair the Toor brothers had with the Okanagan.

Initially, the Toor brothers purchased 25 acres and began planting the first vines in 1989. The Toors were one of the first to plant Syrah in the South Okanagan. There are five vineyards that comprise Desert Hills’ total acreage. Each site is planted with varietals chosen that best suit the specific location, terrior and climate. The Three Boys Vineyards represents the relationship of the Toor brothers and is home to Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Malbec, Merlot, Zinfandel and Pinot Gris.

The Sage Brush Vineyard, with its long hot summer days and moderately cooler nights, provides the ideal environment for Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and small amounts of Gewürztraminer. Adjacent to Sage Brush is Eagle’s Nest Vineyard perfectly situated to produce stunning, yet small quantities of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the grapes that go into making the award-winning Mirage. Sira’s Vineyard, situated on the banks of Lake Osoyoos, produces Viognier. Cool evenings allow the grapes to ripen longer so this varietal can reach the peak of its aromatics. Nighthawk, which rests at a higher elevation, produces the Gewürztraminer.

When asked what makes the wines so unique, Randy Toor replies, “We’ve really got one of the best sites around, all based on the slope, the soil and the heat. We are meticulous in our pruning and routinely drop fruit to produce a higher quality wine.” Desert Hills is a family run business on every level. When Randy is not entertaining patrons at the tasting bar, other family members can be found greeting the guests to

DH. Randy doesn’t use a fancy title for his role in the operation, but he oversees the general daily operations including sales, running the tasting bar and special events. Dave is the vineyard manager, and Jesse manages the vineyard staff and mobile bottling truck called “Dunes”. The bottling truck, owned by the Toor family, delivers off-site services to wineries around the valley.

Currently, DH produces 13 varietals including five whites, a rosé, 10 reds and a Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot port-style wine, Ambassador.

The whites include Viognier, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, un-oaked Chardonnay and a white blend of Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer called Cactus White. The reds offer a range to please any palate — Syrah, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Gamay, Cabernet Merlot, Malbec and two red blends, Cactus Red and Mirage. The total annual production for DH is 12,000 cases. Randy states, “That’s a manageable amount and we are capping it at 12,000 for now in order to meet the quality standards we’ve set.”

Proprietors, Randy, Dave and Jesse Toor are very proud of the accomplishments of their winery. DH wines continue to win notable awards both nationally and internationally. When visiting the tasting room you will notice bottles covered in medals line the walls of the bar. The DH Mirage is a definite winner, the 2007 vintage received a gold medal at both the “2013 New World Wine Competition” and the “2012 Los Angeles International Wine Competition”. Many of the other varietals continue winning accolades and are worthy of mention, but we strongly encourage you to visit the winery and taste the DH wines for yourself.

Details about the wine club are available online. Perks of membership include discounts on wine, exclusive access to library wines, and personal invitations to all DH events. The tasting bar is open from April to October, 10:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. To book a special event or private tasting, contact the winery at info@deserthills.ca.

4078 Black Sage Road, Oliver, B.C. 250-498-6664

deserthills.ca

As an award winning winery located in the sunny Okanagan, Desert Hills is proud to announce our most recent 2012 medals...

All Canadian Wine Championship DOUBLE GOLD: 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon GOLD: 2011 Gamay & 2009 Cabernet Franc & 2008 Mirage SILVER: 2012 Gewürztraminer Pacific Rim International Wine Competition BEST OF CLASS and GOLD: 2011 Gamay & 2009 Cabernet Franc & 2012 Gewürztraminer GOLD: 2009 Merlot L.A International GOLD: 2008 Mirage(93 points) New World International Wine Competition DOUBLE GOLD: 2008 Mirage(released this July)

TWO TIME RECIPIENT OF THE LIEUTENANT GOVERNOR’S AWARD FOR EXCELLENCE IN WINEMAKING & WINNER OF CANADA’S BEST RED JOIN OUR WINE CLUB FOR PRIORITY ACCESS TO NEW RELEASES DESERT HILLS ESTATE WINERY │ 4078 BLACK SAGE ROAD, OLIVER, BC │ PHONE: 250-498-6664 │ WWW.DESERTHILLS.CA

realityBITES

By Cassandra Anderton

v

ancouverites love their java and coffee culture in the city is percolating at all-

time highs. From roasting beans in-house to brewing cup by cup, the city’s coffee shops are taking things to a whole new level. If you are devoted to the fine art of the cup, here’s a list of Vancouver cafés that will caffeinate you correctly.

Milano Coffee and Turk’s Coffee Lounge

roast fresh coffee and serve within three days.

A good selection of gluten-free goods and tasty waffles are also available.

Milano’s founder, Francesco Curatolo, visited Italy in 1981 and become insistent on bringing the Italian coffee tradition to Vancouver. Under the tutelage of Umberto Bizzari, known as the godfather of Italian espresso in Seattle, he studied the secrets of torrefazione, a roasting and blending craft that has been passed down from generation to generation. He opened his first Vancouver shop in 1984. In 2002 Francesco returned to Italy but not before Brian Turko, the current master roaster and owner, was fanatically trained in the art. Serving nine different espresso blends containing as many as twelve different coffees from various origins is what sets Milano apart.

Try the Drip and French Press coffees and don’t miss La Futura espresso which was awarded gold by the International Institute of Coffee Tasters.

1696 Robson Street

156 West 8th Avenue — Milano Coffee Lounge & Tasting Bar 1276 Commercial Drive —Turks on The Drive 36 Powell Street — Milano Espresso Lounge Gastown 849 Denman Street — Milano Espresso Bar and Gelato

milanocoffee.ca

WE Coffee Toward the west end of Robson Street lies WE Coffee where William Chu roasts ten different selections including organic coffee, espresso and single origin. Each morning they

wecoffeeroaster.com

49th Parallel Café Master Roaster Michael Piccolo and his brother Vince travel the world to source coffee directly at the farm to ensure fair trade is exactly that. The beans are brought back to their shop and each batch is meticulously roasted. At the café classes on preparing pour-over coffee and latte art are offered, and everything from drip to espresso is served. 49th Parallel is also home to Lucky’s Doughnuts, the designers of incredible sweet delicacies in radical flavours such as apple bacon and peanut butter and jam.

2902 Main Street 2198 West 4th Avenue

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

Opened by Sammy Piccolo, the brother of the 49th Parallel Piccolo’s, and the four-time winner of the “Canadian Barista Championship”, this Commercial Drive favourite draws in coffee fans from all over town.

This Piccolo serves his family’s stellar coffee along with croissants, root beer floats and gluten-free peanut butter ice cream sandwiches.

Hospitable staff complete the experience.

1938 Commercial Drive

pradocafe.com

Far Out Coffee Post In East Village north of East Hastings Street lies Far Out Coffee Post. Products offered include Origins Organic Coffee, quality teas from the local Steam Tea House and baked goods from local bakers such as Black Rook Bakehouse and East Village Bakery.

Vegan and gluten-free items are available; the vegan breakfast burritos and grilled cheese with apple are top choices.

2173 Dundas Street

facebook.com/far.out.16

49thparallelroasters.com

East Van Roasters

Revolver Coffee

Fairly new to the scene is East Van Roasters located in the Rainier Hotel in Gastown. Set up to provide training and employment for women of the Downtown Eastside, this spot roasts coffee on-site and creates organic bean-to-bar chocolate — one of the few producers in British Columbia. They serve coffee, hot chocolate, truffles, chocolate bars and pastries.

If you are looking for a chance to sample coffee made using a variety of brewing methods, Revolver is the place to go. You can sip coffees brewed in a vast variety of styles which are made from beans sourced from many of the smaller North American roasters. Revolver is focused on brewing each cup slowly and separately. You can choose to compare the espresso brewed using methods such as Chemex, Aeropress, Kone filters, press pot and siphon.

325 Cambie Street

revolvercover.ca

38

Prado Café

319 Carrall Street

eastvanroasters.com

reality bites

East Café Another newcomer at Hastings and Nanaimo, East Café serves up Intelligentsia Coffee Black Cat Roast, as well as coffee from local roaster, Oughtred Coffee & Tea. The café is home to a vintage La Marzocco Linea espresso machine. Paninis are made by La Grotta del Formaggio and Plaisir Sucre Bakery Ltd. provides the pastries. Housemade salads and breakfasts are also served.

2401 East Hastings Street

eastcafe.ca

Big Lou’s Butcher Shop.

639 East 15th Avenue

matchstickcoffee.com

Lost and Found Café Gastown’s Lost and Found Café is a gallery and café serving locally roasted organic Republica Coffee from Fort Langley, along with in-house baked goods. They make delicious salads and stock travel books from around the world so you can plan your next voyage while sipping.

33 West Hastings Street

Matchstick Coffee

facebook.com/lostfoundcafe

Another in-house roaster, Matchstick Coffee is known for its single origin coffee and attention to the precise art of coffee making.

They work with local suppliers to craft their incredible sandwiches; don’t miss the roast beef from Meadow Valley Meats made by

Also worth checking into are Caffè Artigiano, Elysian Coffee, Bump N Grind Cafe, Nelson the Seagull, Kafka’s Coffee and Tea, Caffè Cittadella, JJ Bean Coffee Roasters, Musette Caffe and Wicked Cafe.

[ AWARD WINNING ADVERTISING PHOTOGRAPHY ] ADVERTISING • ARCHITECTURE • MARINE • TRAVEL

Planning a Special Event?

Entertain your guests in our European style winery!

Contact us for details.

Open: Daily 10.30 am - 5.30 pm 4918 Anderson Road, Kelowna.

250 491 2766 www.ancienthillwinery.com

John Schreiner on wine

Vancouver Island WINES with a difference

w

ith only a few exceptions, the grapes that thrive in the vineyards of Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands are different from those found growing in the much hotter and drier Okanagan.

The island wines have their own personalities. Consumers who live elsewhere in western Canada rarely see these wines off the islands.

The main varietals found both on the islands and in the Okanagan include Pinot Noir, Maréchal Foch, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer.

However, the climate and the soils also make the island wines more aromatic, with bright fruit flavours and sharper acidity.

Averill Creek Vineyard at Duncan produces excellent Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. Alderlea Vineyards, also at Duncan, makes a full-bodied Maréchal Foch called Clarinet while Unsworth Vineyards make a port-style version called Ovation. Symphony Vineyard at Saanich makes fine Gewürztraminer.

Here are some the other commonly found grape varietals found on the island vineyards.

Agria: This is said to be a Hungarian red variety with profoundly dark flesh and juice. Cherry Point Estate Winery once released it as a varietal but now blends it with Castel and Zweigelt for a robust red called Forté. Hornby Island’s Carbrea Vineyard makes a varietal Agria.

Black Muscat: Only Blue Grouse Estate Winery has this rare, spicy red.

Slightly off-dry, it is great with cheese.

Cabernet Foch and Cabernet Libre: These are two of the many disease-resistant hybrids developed by Valentin Blattner of Switzerland.

The wines have retained little of the flavour of the Cabernet Sauvignon in their ancestry. Typically, the wines are leaner, with spicy, earthy flavours.

Alderlea Vineyards releases Cabernet Foch under the name, Matrix.

Unsworth Vineyards blends Cabernet Libre with Merlot in a wine called Symphony. Enrico Winery releases both Foch and Libre as separate varietals.

Castel: This is a French American hybrid so obscure that it never even made it into Jancis Robinson’s huge and comprehensive book, Wine Grapes (1,368 other varieties did). Vigneti Zanatta near Duncan blends it with Cabernet Sauvignon in a sparkling wine called Taglio Rosso.

Cayuga: An aromatic white hybrid developed in New York State, it is grown only by Vigneti Zanatta for a sparkling wine called Glenora Fantasia.

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magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

By John Schreiner

Dunkelfelder: This obscure German cross—the name means dark fields—is very dark in colour and is often used in blends for that reason.

A varietal Dunkelfelder has been released by Blue Grouse.

Epicure: This is white Blattner hybrid that was named at a Vancouver Island vineyard, Domaine Rochette, where there is a taste for Shakespeare, blends it with Petite Milo in a refreshing white called Taming of the Shrew.

Grüner Veltliner: The major white in Austria, this is new to British Columbia. The first planting was at de Vine Vineyards on the Saanich Peninsula and the winery released its first version this year, called Grü-V. Léon Millot: This is a full-bodied red developed in 1911 by Alsace plant breeder, Eugene Kuhlmann, who also developed Maréchal Foch. It is an islands favourite because grapes ripen early and are disease resistant. The wines are less rustic and more elegant than Foch. Symphony Vineyard makes a fine Millot.

Ortega: This early-ripening white was created in Germany in 1948 by a plant breeder who crossed Müller-Thurgau with Siegerrebe. Curiously, it was named for the Spanish philosopher, José Ortega y Gasset. It is widely grown on the islands because the variety is early and often aromatic. Beaufort Vineyard has an excellent example. Domaine Rochette calls its Ortega Much ado about nothing. Some producers also blend it: Venturi-Schulze Vineyards has two such blends: Primavera, a blend of Ortega and Schönburger, and Millefiore, a blend of Siegerrebe and Ortega. Southend Farm on Quadra Island makes an Ortega aged in acacia barrels.

Petite Milo: This is a white variety, perhaps one of the best of the Blattner whites, also christened by an island grower. Salt Spring Vineyards blends this and several other Blattner whites (not all have been named) into a crisply refreshing white called Evolution White.

Siegerrebe: This very early white, developed in Germany, has such dramatic Muscat aromas that it attracts wasps which suck the sweet juice and leave the empty skins behind. Several desperate island vintners actually have removed wasps from grape clusters with hand-held vacuum cleaners. Rocky Creek Winery has an expressive Siegerrebe.

Zweigelt: Austria’s big red, Zweigelt was first planted on the coast

by Salt Spring’s Garry Oaks Winery, which calls its wine Zeta for ease of pronunciation.

JanuarY 11 - 19, 2014

The 16th annual sun peaks

winTer Okanagan

wine FesTival Take cool, white wines and marry them with crisp, white snow and warm, full bodied reds and place them in cozy, fireside restaurants. These are the harmonious pairings discovered in Canada’s Alpine Village during the 16th Annual Winter Okanagan Wine Festival. Experience ten days designed to tempt your palate with a series of events to educate, thrill and fill your soul with award winning British Columbian wine, food and hospitality. Sun Peaks expansive mountain terrain and endless outdoor winter recreation opportunities are the perfect backdrop for the wineries of the Okanagan Wine Festivals Society and local chefs to prepare an elevated après ski experience found nowhere else.

With many memorable events, including the flagship Sun Peaks Progressive Wine Tasting presented by WestJet, plan to stay a few nights for a very unique alpine break.

Create Your own wine StorY

Buy Your Tickets Online and download your free events guide at www.thewinefestivals.com or call 250-861-6654

winter wine PICKS

By Rhys Pender, MW

Burrowing Owl Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley

A nice ripe south Okanagan Pinot Noir combining black cherry and strawberry fruit with some pretty floral notes and both oak and fruit derived spice and pastry crust aromas. The palate is quite velvet textured while balanced with juicy acidity and zippy red berry fruits, orange zest, dark chocolate and marzipan all melding together nicely on the long finish.

Meyer Family Vineyard 2011 McLean Creek Road Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley

A complex and impressive pinot combining cherry, earth, forest floor, clove and orange zest. The palate is a touch lean reflecting the cool vintage but the medium tannins are ripe, the acidity crisp and the juicy red fruit, earth, spice and paprika flavours are complex and linger on the long finish.

Nk’Mip 2010 Qwam Qwmt Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley

From the warmer southern part of the Okanagan Valley, this is a bigger, structured wine with ripe cherry, mixed brambly berry, dried herbs, raspberry, violet and leather notes framed by some smoky vanillin oak. The palate is fresh and juicy but with structured tannin and ripe blueberry, mixed berry, leather, spice, earth and dried sage with a medium length finish.

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magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

Summerhill Pyramid Winery N/V Cipes Rosé Okanagan Valley

A 100% pinot noir and nicely dry rosé bubbly. The nose is only medium intensity but with some nice strawberry, ginger, cream and orange zest aromas. The dry palate has crisp, high acidity with slightly tart strawberry, dried herbal and some mineral notes along with some peach skin, lemon, orange zest, clove and slight violet notes all lingering on a long, dry finish. Some nice savoury, earth and lees elements and a zippy, fresh mousse all with the long mineral finish make this a very drinkable B.C. bubbly.

Mission Hill Family Estate 2011 Martin’s Lane Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley,

Road 13 Vineyards 2011 Castle Vineyard Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley

After initially cutting the number of products, Road 13 is now back, caught by the bug of letting the differences of their singlevineyard wines show through. The Castle Vineyard has complex strawberry, stewed cherry, clove, and orange zest along with some intriguing meat, dried herbs and purple flowers. The palate is light and fresh with crisp acidity and a silky palate texture with the vibrant baking spice, earth, charred meat, graphite, orange zest, plum, blueberry and dried strawberry flavours lasting and melding into much more making it, in typical pinot noir fashion, hard to describe. The medium tannins are ripe and the finish is long and complex. Delicious now or could age for a decade.

Mt. Boucherie 2009 Family Reserve Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley

Just starting to show a touch of garnet from development.

The nose is quite pretty with lots of floral and vanilla supporting the cherry, raspberry and mixed summer berries while a hint of burlap adds some background complexity. The palate is quite silky with dried cherry and lots of earthy, dried herbal and tobacco notes, baking spice and a nice long finish. Quite complex and drinking well now but could develop for six or more years.

The second release of the more vineyard focused Martin’s Lane Pinot Noir came out as best Canadian red wine at the Decanter World Wine Awards. It combines the earthy, vegetal, fruit and spice elements of pinot noir nicely with aromas of clove, tobacco, cherry, flowers, pepper, plum and smoke. The palate is juicy and fresh with lively acidity and tart red cherry, raspberry and strawberry fruit with some earthy, paprika and dried herbal elements with a long, mineral finish. Good complexity and potential to age.

Tinhorn Creek 2009 Oldfield Series Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley

With Tinhorn’s new initiative to release their top pinot noir with some age there is an interesting chance to see what a bit of bottle time does. The nose is quite intense with lots of developed meaty, baked fruit, floral and spice notes with the 14.7% alcohol showing itself a little. The palate is quite intensely flavoured with warming ripe blueberry, black cherry and mulberry along with spice, a touch of dried sage and some plum. Quite a ripe, rich pinot but still with some delicacy. Nice lingering plum and mixed red berry fruit provides an interesting long finish.

Eau Vivre 2010 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley

Tantalus 2010 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley

First tasted more than a year ago, this wine has really started to evolve in the bottle. The nose shows ripe floral, plum, blueberry, fig and strawberry along with some dark chocolate and baking spice. The palate is silky textured with crisp acidity, a light body, plum, blueberry, violet, damson, dried strawberry and some savoury mineral, leather and meatiness. It has evolved beautifully to be ready now but also has the stamina to last for close to a decade with the long, structured, mineral finish showing great potential.

A very pale ruby colour with nice intense aromatics combining stewed strawberry and cherry along with some intriguing smoky, spicy vegetal notes. The palate is medium bodied, fresh and juicy with strawberry, cherry, tomato, clove, paprika, earth and some charred meat notes. All very intense and with a long finish and good concentration, this should continue to evolve and open up over the next few years.

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013 43

savour spots Brodo Kitchen

By Roslyne Buchanan

The medley of savoury aromas that waft out of Brodo Kitchen as you open the door confirms the down-home feeling of the country-style entry. Whether it’s Chef Paul Cecconi, his wife Holly, or a staff member smiling as you step up to the counter to place your order, the warm welcome continues.

You will not find any pretense in the folksy menu posted on the chalkboards or on the daily specials bulletin. But don’t let that fool you. What you will find is the understated elegance of comfort food deftly designed and made to look easy because it’s done remarkably well. The restaurant is the fruition of a long-time dream. Cecconi had paid his dues over the years working in kitchens owned by others. The name of the restaurant means “broth” in Italian and is a salute to Chef Cecconi’s heritage and passion for making soups. He is a two-time winner of the “Stone Soup Chef” title awarded at a creative cooking competition and fundraiser for Kelowna’s Gospel Mission.

As a teen, Cecconi recognized his interest in food and chose to work at a variety of Vancouver restaurants from bakeries to fine dining before enrolling in the Culinary Arts Program at Vancouver Community College.

Upon completion of his training he travelled extensively while continuing to build his culinary skills. He completed a three-year apprenticeship under Chef Doug Anderson at Vancouver’s Four Seasons Hotel before transferring to the Four Seasons in Sydney, Australia for a couple of years. Upon his return to Canada he joined Kelowna’s Harvest Golf

Club in 2001 as sous chef and became their executive chef in 2002. In 2009 he moved to the Local Lounge Grille as its opening executive chef. Cecconi says, “My wife Holly and I agreed that the next step was to create our own restaurant. We felt it would allow us to spend more time with our daughter Sofia and son Simon.”

Brodo Kitchen is open for lunch and early dinner, and closed on Sundays and some statutory holidays. The catering side of the business is busy and there are plans to offer picnic selections at Penticton’s Perseus Winery. Cecconi smiles admitting that he and Holly are probably now working more hours. “It’s different when it’s your own,” he explains, “and with Brodo’s atmosphere so casual, it’s easier to have our kids spend time with us here.”

savour spots

Clams, mussels & oysters oh my!

Winter is great for shelllish. The cold, clear waters deliver fresh, clean tasting clams, mussels and oysters perfect for hearty soups or lean recipes. Love lobster but hate the cooking part? No problem, just ask and we’ll have it cooked and ready for you to pick up!

We’re always happy to help.

Fresh, locally sourced, sustainable seafood.

The kitchen is open concept so whether you’re checking out the blackboard menu, or you’ve dropped in to get the day’s special as posted on facebook and/or twitter, your choice can be swayed by the beautiful plating going on before your eyes. With a clear preference for supporting local and fresh, Brodo’s menu offers an interesting array and varies by the season. Soup is served in two sizes or you can opt for a flight of three. This option suits me perfectly rather than having to choose between selections such as chicken tortilla, chili or tomato parmesan. As you might expect, in a place where comfort food reigns you will also find sandwiches such as grilled cheese, roast turkey and barbecued pork, along with classic Caesar and potato salads. You will be tempted by desserts arranged in the display case or by ice cream flavours that match the fruits in season. The concept of local also extends to the beverages which include B.C. wines and craft beers, and often a homemade iced tea or lemonade.

In keeping with the theme of simplicity, beverages arrive in mason jars. The white crockery is served on funky enamel trays trimmed in cobalt blue and black with an attractive and functional tray liner of beige bearing the Brodo logo. It’s evident the Cecconi’s had fun sourcing the decor. There are a few small tables and antique chairs, a barn wood family-style table and benches, and an old Penticton bakery sign.

Antique fruit boxes are used to display jars of canned fruit, relishes and salsas which are available to purchase.

If you prefer to grab and go, there’s a cooler stocked with vacuumpacked soups and stocks. Brodo also has a booth at the downtown Penticton Farmers’ Market on Saturdays. For those who want to learn more about creating these flavours at home, Chef Cecconi plans to offer cooking classes once the restaurant’s fall hours of operation are finalized. Brodo Kitchen opened in May 2013 and has already amassed a host of regular patrons and rave reviews on travel sites such as TripAdvisor. tastebrodo.com

Real seafood. Real simple.

www.codfathers.ca 2355 Gordon Drive, Kelowna

Membership includes access to Poplar Grove’s limited release member only wines, discounts and an invitation to the annual Wine Club Party!

For more information on Poplar Grove’s wine club visit: www.poplargrove.ca

savour its

By Chytra Brown

Get organized with these stunning calendars

Animal lovers love this dog calendar that has been produced annually since 2008. The calendars sell out every year before we can get our paws on them.

This year’s edition features a total of 33 dog photos; all the doggies live and work on a B.C. winery. The calendar makes a great gift, costs only $14.95. and is available at most wineries in the province, some BC VQA stores, and on-line at amazon.ca. Partial proceeds of the sales are donated to the BC SPCA. What better way is there to keep track of your year then by gazing at man’s best friend?

And now, cat lovers have their own calendar! The first ever B.C. winery cats calendar has just been released and proceeds will benefit CritterAid in Summerland. The proprietor of Kraze Legz Winery in Kaleden, Sue Thygesen, has spearheaded the project. For more information on where to get your 2014 B.C. winery cats calendar, visit krazelegz.com.

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magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

book reviews

By Roslyne Buchanan

Book title:

Craft Beer Revolution

The Insider’s Guide to B.C. Breweries

Author: Joe Wiebe Published by: Douglas & McIntyre Paperback 224 pp, ISBN 978-1-77100-115-1 Available at book stores across Canada, Craftbeerrevolution.ca, Chapters.Indigo.ca and Amazon.ca

$19.95

Author Joe Wiebe is to British Columbia’s craft beer enthusiasts what television’s “Friendly Giant” was to millions of children from 1958 to 1985 – an inspiration. While the Friendly Giant asked viewers to “look way up” into a world of fantasy, books and music, Wiebe entices readers to look deep into an adventure of B.C. craft beer. With an easy grin similar to the “Friendly Giant”, Wiebe welcomes you to the “Craft Beer Revolution”. He offers an insider’s view on his journey to visit craft breweries throughout the province.

Wiebe is a leading Canadian beer writer and author of The Thirsty Writer blog. In this book he sketches a logical route for the exploration of breweries within seven geographical regions of the province. He provides background on each brewery along with his favourites’ list, also sharing his opinion on the duds or “so-called” craft breweries. You will find interesting profiles about key players in the revolution and definitions of terms like “growler” and “firkin”. The wealth of information covers taphouses such as The Alibi Room, brewpubs including The Noble Pig Brewhouse, pub crawls, beer specialty liquor stores and annual events like the “Vancouver Craft Beer Week” and Penticton’s “Okanagan Fest-of-Ale”. History, location, facts and figures for each brewery are covered, along with the tap list available at the time of publication. Wiebe even touches on craft distilleries. He readily admits “the book was out-of-date the moment it was published” and offers a list of web sites and other resources which will allow you to keep current. Wiebe is passionate about craft beer and he urges like-minded readers to join CAMRA BC (Campaign for Real Ale).

Book title:

The Power of Food

100 Essential Recipes for Abundant Health and Happiness

Author: Adam Hart Published by: Whitecap Books, Vancouver, B.C. Paperback with flaps 208 pp, ISBN 978-1-77050-182-9 Available at book stores across Canada, Chapters.Indigo.ca and Amazon.ca

$24.95

The passion that Adam Hart has for his subject leaps off the pages of this book – part testimonial and part cookbook. If you’re looking for strategies to improve your well-being, it’s a great place to start.

What’s unique about Hart’s philosophy is that it is non-restrictive. His 11 Action Steps and praise for 6 Power Foods (nuts, seeds, grains, legumes, fruits and vegetables) are based on an epiphany concerning his health. At age 26 he was overweight, asthmatic, suffering from depression and anxiety attacks, and was pre-diabetic. He decided to take control of his future and embarked on a journey to adopt a healthier lifestyle. Rather than taking the approach of eliminating foods such as dairy, gluten and meat from his diet, he sets out a strategy to incorporate power foods. He suggests that by eating these nutrient and vitamin rich foods you will feel naturally full, experience a boost in energy, and have less craving for processed foods.

Hart’s nutrition and lifestyle company, Power of Food, is based in Squamish, B.C. where he lives with his wife and daughter. He is a motivational speaker, author and champion of “living foods” described as “any foods that have not been broken down, altered or transformed in any way” and which offer nutritional value superior to processed foods.

The book includes detailed profiles of 24 power foods and recipes, along with helpful charts and forms designed to motivate you in your personal journey to improved health.

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013 47

BC VQAtasting winery tastingnotes notes

WINES for the

holidays

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery 2010 Pinot Noir

Intense aromas of black cherry, ripe strawberry, lilac and complex graphite, orange zest, cinnamon, vanilla scented pastry and marzipan notes. The palate is intensely flavoured with strawberry, lively cranberry, orange infused dark chocolate and vibrant minerality to balance the silky texture. Fine tannins and juicy acidity give great structure and length. Pair with Peking duck or rotisserie chicken stuffed with preserved lemon.

Perseus Winery 2010 Invictus

Structure and balance display an outpouring of elegant black fruit, leather, rich earthy tones and a trace of cigar box. This wine offers classic structure, depth and complexity. Bold, intriguing and age-worthy. Best served decanted alongside rich, savoury dishes of duck, beef or lamb.

$30 bovwine.ca

$33 perseuswinery.com

Perseus Winery 2012 Viognier

Tropical lychee, pineapple flavours complement a hint of high mountain white truffles that finish with fresh, citrusy pink grapefruit. Pair with Asian dishes, strong cheese, root veggies, lobster, white meat, or rich fish in creamy textured sauces.

Upper Bench Estate Winery 2011 Pinot Noir

$22

Earthy aromas of redcurrant, blackberry and strawberry with a hint of vanilla are followed by raspberry, strawberry and black cherry flavours. Fine lingering tannins add weight to the mid-palate before a long elegant berry fruit finish. Pairs well with Upper Bench Okanagan Sun or Gold.

perseuswinery.com

$27 upperbench.ca

Upper Bench Estate Winery 2012 Chardonnay

Citrus, mango, honey, nectarine and ripe banana delight the nose, followed by buttery peach, mango and papaya on the tongue. The midpalate is lush stone fruit leading into a long tropical, hazelnut finish.

$25 upperbench.ca 48

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

winery tasting notes

Volcanic Hills Estate Winery 2011 Magma Red

Volcanic Hills Estate Winery 2008 Syrah

This Syrah boasts aromas of blackberry and blackcurrent with notes of plum and mint.

The palate displays rich flavours of cassis, plum and raspberry. Aged 20 months in French oak, medium bodied with supple tannins, followed by a lingering, smooth finish.

Aromas of blackberry, blueberry and vanilla with hints of spice on the nose. Rich and round on the palate, it’s bursting with dark cherry, plum and just a touch of black pepper on the finish. Well balanced with good structure and medium length.

$16 volcanichillswinery.com

$27 volcanichillswinery.com

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

49

Best of Savour

Recipes

mushroom pesto

lasagna Submitted by Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery

Pesto Sauce Yield: 1 1/4 cups 3 cups loosely packed fresh basil 3 tbsp pine nuts, lightly toasted 2 cloves garlic 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese Salt to taste

Place basil, nuts, garlic and salt in food processor and process one minute.

Slowly pour in the olive oil until the desired consistency is reached.

Add the cheese and mix well.

Lasagna Fresh lasagna noodles for a 10” x 14” lasagna pan 1 lb fresh porcini or portobello mushrooms, coarsely chopped 2 oz dried porcini mushrooms 3/4 cup fresh basil pesto 3/4 cup grated pecorino or parmesan cheese 1/3 cup pine nuts 2 cups béchamel sauce

Butter a 10” x 14” lasagna pan. Preheat oven to 375°F. Prepare lasagna noodles.

Hydrate the dried porcini in one cup of warm water for 20 to 30 minutes, then drain and coarsely chop.

Prepare the béchamel sauce.

Sauté the mushrooms together in a little oil and butter until tender, about 10 minutes.

Mix a little pesto with some hot pasta water and spread over the bottom of the buttered lasagna pan. Arrange a layer of noodles over the pesto and sprinkle with some of the mushroom mixture. Spread a little of the béchamel sauce on top of the mushrooms. Add another layer of noodles, and then spread a thin layer of pesto sauce on top.

Sprinkle with some of the grated cheese. Continue to layer in this manner until all ingredients are used up.

Cover the top with the last of the béchamel sauce and sprinkle with cheese and pine nuts.

Bake at 375°F for 30-40 minutes or until bubbly and browned on top.

Let sit for 10 minutes before cutting.

Pair with Noble Ridge Pinot Noir

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013 51

Goat

Cheese

with Apple Slaw

Page 54

52

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

Baby Beet and Fromage

Frais Salad

Page 54

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

53

Golden Goat Cheese with Apple Slaw

Baby Beet and Fromage Frais Salad

Submitted by Joy Road Catering Makes 8 canapes for 4 guests 2 tubes of Carmelis* fresh goat cheese zest of 1 lemon 1 cup Panko (Japanese bread crumbs) 1 egg, whisked 1/2 bunch flat leaf parsley, chopped 2 apples 1 tsp grainy Dijon mustard

Submitted by Executive Chef Roger Sleiman, Old Vines Patio Serves 4 1 1/2 lbs of assorted baby beets such as chiogga, golden and red 1 cup fromage frais (a.k.a. fromage blanc)* Salt and pepper to taste Zest of one lemon Micro lettuce or soft herbs such as chervil or Italian parsley

Salt and pepper Flour for dredging 1/2 cup neutral oil (i.e. sunflower, canola, vegetable)

Using a spatula, cream the goat cheese with some lemon zest, salt and pepper to taste.

Form this mixture by hand into little pucks,or push it into a ring to keep a nice round shape.

Toss the goat cheese puck in some flour seasoned with salt and pepper just to coat; knock off the excess flour. Dip the floured puck into the whisked egg and toss it in panko to evenly coat. The goat cheese pucks may then be stored in the fridge while you heat the oil for frying and make the slaw.

Shave the apples about 2mm thick using a knife or mandolin. Julienne the shaved slices, i.e. cut in thin strips. Toss the apple and mustard together; add the parsley.

Heat the oil over medium heat. SautĂŠ the goat cheese pucks in oil until golden brown on each side. Drain on a paper towel.

Serve warm with a sprinkle of the apple slaw and parsley mixture on top to garnish. *Carmelis Goat Cheese Artisan carmelisgoatcheese.com

Raspberry Vinaigrette 1 cup raspberries 1 cup raspberry vinegar (Okanagan Vinegar Works) 4 tbsp honey 1/4 tsp dry mustard 3 cups olive oil

Blend raspberries and vinegar then strain through a fine sieve. Add honey, salt and dry mustard powder. While whisking, slowly add the oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

In a large pot cover beets with water and simmer until tender, strain.

Using a cloth, rub the skin off the beets; it should easily slough off.

Cut the beets in half and set aside to cool. Use two separate bowls, one for the red beets and the other for the gold and chiogga.

Mix the fromage frais with the lemon zest and season with salt to taste. Lightly toss with vinaigrette and season both bowls with salt and pepper to taste.

To Serve Colourfully arrange beets on one large dish. Drizzle with more raspberry vinaigrette. Spoon some fromage frais on top and arrange the soft herbs. *May substitute buffalo mozzarella or goat cheese.

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magazine • FALL/WINTER FALL 2013 2013

recipes

Mussels Vin Blanc Submitted by Chef Nico Schuermans Chambar Restaurant Serves 2 1 1/2 lbs mussels (cleaned) 2 tsp vegetable oil 1 yellow onion, julienned 1/2 tbsp garlic, minced 1 stalk celery, julienned 1/2 leek, julienned 1 cup dry white wine 1 oz butter 1/2 tbsp ground fennel seed 1/2 tbsp ground coriander 1 pinch salt 1/2 tbsp coarse black pepper 1/4 cup chopped green onion 1/2 cup chopped parsley

At medium to high temperature, heat vegetable oil in a 2-3 litre pot on stovetop.

Add onions and garlic and allow to cook until tender.

Add cleaned mussels, wine, spices and butter.

Cover and cook for approximately 3-5 minutes.

Add celery and leek.

Simmer until mussels have opened; add green onion and parsley. Serve immediately.

magazine • FALL/WINTER 2013

55

recipes

Back Bacon and Veggie Casserole

Crispy Skin Salmon with Red Thai Curry Sauce

Submitted by 8th Generation Winery

Submitted by Chef Tyler Groenesteyn, Codfather's Seafood Market 1 tsp olive oil 1 stalk lemongrass, minced 2 tbsp fresh ginger, minced 2 tbsp fresh garlic, minced 1 shallot, minced 1 tbsp red Thai curry paste 1 can (14 fluid ounces) coconut milk zest of 1 lime 2 tbsp honey 1 spring salmon fillet, 8 oz with skin on 1 tsp+ 1 tbsp olive oil pinch sea salt pinch pepper

This recipe from winery owner Stefanie Schales is perfect for chilly fall and winter evenings. Stefanie often prepares this dish during the fall crush for her husband (and winemaker) Bernd. The dish is full of wonderful vegetables such as kohlrabi (a type of German turnip) and combines traditional German cooking with a bottle of B.C. wine. The results are spectacular. As Stefanie says, “How can life get any better?”

Serves 6–8 1 tbsp vegetable oil 2 1/2 lbs Canadian back bacon, sliced 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 carrot, chopped 1 kohlrabi, chopped (optional) 1 leek, chopped 1 small purple-topped turnip, chopped 1 small parsnip, chopped 1 rib celery, chopped 1/2 tbsp vegetable stock powder 1 cup Chardonnay 6 small mushrooms, halved 1 small apple, peeled, cored and cut into 8 pieces 1 3/4 cups whipping cream

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Heat the vegetable oil in a stove-proof casserole dish over medium-high heat. Sauté the bacon for 2–3 minutes until lightly browned, then remove the bacon from the casserole and set it aside. You may need to do this in batches.

Add the onion, garlic, carrot, kohlrabi, leek, turnip, parsnip and celery to the casserole and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the stock powder, wine, mushrooms and apple. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until all of the liquid has evaporated.

Return the bacon to the casserole and layer it between the vegetables. Pour the cream over top and bake it in the oven until the top has lightly browned, about 30–40 minutes. Season with a little salt and pepper to taste.

This dish is delicious served with corkscrew pasta and a glass of Chardonnay.

Pair with 8th Generation Chardonnay

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Curry sauce Heat a saucepan over medium heat. Add oil and when hot add the lemongrass, ginger, garlic and shallot for 2 minutes till soft.

Add curry paste and cook for 1 minute.

Add coconut milk, honey and reduce liquid by half.

Finish sauce with lime juice and zest.

Strain sauce through a fine mesh strainer and it’s ready to serve.

salmon Score the skin in a parallel formation.

Season both sides of the fish with salt and pepper, trying to get some of the seasoning between and in the scored area. Rub 1 tsp olive oil on the skin.

Heat a non stick frying pan on medium high heat. Add 1 tbsp olive oil to pan.

Carefully place salmon fillet in pan skin side down.

Turn heat down to medium and allow the salmon to cook about 2/3 of the way through.

Remove the pan from heat and flip the salmon over just for 1 to 2 minutes Pour the curry sauce onto plate and place salmon skin side up with garnish of salt flakes and thinly sliced scallions.

Serve with Upper Bench Estate Winery’s 2011 Chardonnay. It’s subtle French oak provides a lush mid-palette and a long rich finish.

recipes

Crispy Skin

Salmon with Red Thai Curry Sauce

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Roasted whole free run

Chicken

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Page 62

Shellfish

Risotto

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Photo Credit: Shawn Talbot

madeleines

Submitted by Martin-Raffault Sandrine French Pastry & Chocolate

90 g butter 2 eggs 75 g sugar 10 g golden sugar 15 g honey 90 g flour 1/2 tsp baking powder

Mix eggs, sugars and honey until the mixture becomes white.

Add the sifted flour and baking powder slowly to this mix.

Melt the butter, add to the flour mixture and stir it delicately with a spatula.

Let the batter rest for about an hour before you pour it in the moulds. If you don’t have a Madeleine mould, you can bake them in a muffin tin.

The madeleines are best eaten the same day with coffee or tea.

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recipes

Shellfish Risotto

River’s Bend Winery Food Styling, Photography and Recipe by Gary Faessler

A Northern Italian dish, risotto is made with Arborio — a short, wide and starchy rice able to absorb lots of liquid and which can expand two to three times its original size. The Arborio rice is sautéed in fat, usually butter, then stirred as broth is added gradually in small amounts until the rice has absorbed all the liquid. Using this method the starch slowly dissolves, creamily binding the kernels and base flavours together. When finished, the risotto is creamy, saucy yet a little al dente, that is it should still have a bite to it. A general formula to use when cooking Arborio is 1/2 cup of rice cooked in 1 1/2 cups of liquid which yields 1 cup cooked rice.

Serves 10 6 cups chicken stock or fish stock 3 cups water 1/4 tsp saffron 3 cups Italian Arborio rice 4 tbsp virgin olive oil 1 tbsp unsalted butter 1 small onion, finely diced 2 sticks celery, finely diced 3 garlic cloves, minced 1/2 cup RBW Pinot Gris 20 small mussels cooked and shucked 40 small clams cooked and shucked 10 large scallops cut into 1/2 inch pieces 20 uncooked prawns, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch pieces 2 cups lump Dungeness crab meat 1/4 tsp red chili flakes Juice of half a lemon 2 tbsp flat leaf parsley, chopped 2 tbsp fresh dill Freshly ground white pepper and salt to taste

Wash and scrub clams and mussels. Discard any that stay open when handled.

Put them in a large pan with a little water on high heat and cover. Check the clams and mussels frequently removing them as they open their shells. Detach the meat from their shells, put them in a bowl and cover with the strained juices.

Bring stock, water and saffron to a simmer in a medium saucepan on a burner close to where you will be cooking the risotto.

Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil and the butter in a heavy and broad pot (preferably enameled cast iron) over medium heat. Add onions and celery and sauté until tender. Add rice, garlic, 1 tablespoon of parsley and stir for a minute until the grains are well coated. While continuously and slowly stirring, the rice will begin to look translucent as it absorbs the flavours of the oil, onion and garlic.

Be careful not to brown the rice; turn the heat down if the pan seems too hot.

Add the pinot gris, lemon juice, hot chili pepper, salt and white pepper, and stir until wine is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Add 1/2 cup of the stock and cook until absorbed, stirring frequently.

Continue adding stock, half cup at a time, allowing liquid to be absorbed before adding more. Cook the rice until it is tender yet firm to the bite. Add the prawns, scallops, crab, mussels, the remaining parsley and olive oil to the risotto and mix gently. If the risotto is a bit dry add more stock. Cover the pot and take off the heat. Let rest for a few minutes or until the scallops and prawns are just cooked. Divide risotto equally among bowls. Garnish with parsley, dill and lemon wedge.

Roasted Whole Free Run Chicken One 3-4 lb free run chicken

Dry Brine 3 tbsp coarse sea salt 2 tsp cracked dry chili flakes, reserving 1/2 tsp 1 tbsp fennel seeds 1/4 cup brown sugar 2 tbsp fresh thyme

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Chef Stewart Glynes The Bench Artisan Food Market

Rub dry brine generously over bird then put in fridge uncovered for 4-5 hours.

Rinse off brine with cold water and gently pat dry.

Drizzle olive oil over chicken and toss with an additional 1 tsp paprika and 1/2 tsp dry chili flakes, plus salt and pepper to taste. Roast in oven at 350ºF for 1 hour. Let rest.

Deglaze pan with a splash of white wine, add 1 tbsp minced garlic and a handful of fresh herbs for a great gravy. Makes a great and simple winter dish. Goes well with mashed potatoes, wild rice or mac & cheese.

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