BRITISH COLUMBIA MADE
GOURMET
Sooke
Harbour House
best
2012 OF VARIETAL
wine awards
BC VQA
Taste of Summer
SUMMER 2012
Q: What is a BC VQA wine store you say? A: When we're asked, "What does VQA stand for?" the answer is always the same: Vintners Quality Alliance. It describes wine made from 100% BC grapes and tasted by a panel to ensure quality. And it's the wine you'll find at BC VQA wine stores. Hundreds of BC labels with some of the most acclaimed and award-winning wines in the world behind them; all at BC Liquor Store prices. Your BC VQA wine store is the place to sip, sample and set the stage for summer. No questions about it.
Stop by for a complimentary taste of what BC has to offer! Okanagan Valley BC Wine Information Centre Penticton, 250-490-2006 BC Wine Museum & VQA Wine Shop Kelowna, 250-868-0441 Discover Wines Kelowna, 250-868-3990 1-888-500-3990 lOwer Mainland Kensington Square Wines Burnaby, 604-294-9573 Mud Bay Wines – Tsawwassen Delta, 604-948-2199
Sardis Park VQA Wine Store Chilliwack, 604-824-0042
Village VQA Wines – Kitsilano Vancouver, 604-732-8827
Sip Wines Richmond, 604-271-9463
Westwood Wines Coquitlam, 604-464-5009
Swirl Wine Store Maple Ridge, 604-477-0079
VancOuVer island
Swirl Wine Store White Rock, 604-531-0038
BC Wineguys – VQA Wine Store cadboro Bay road Victoria, 250-592-8466
Swirl Wine Store – Yaletown Vancouver, 604-408-9463
Courtenay BC VQA Wine Store Courtenay, 250-871-1444
The Wine Emporium Langley, 604-532-5388
VQA Wine Shop at Mattick’s Farm Victoria, 250-658-3116
Village VQA Wines – Dunbar Vancouver, 604-269-9433
kOOtenays
Village VQA Wines – Edgemont North Vancouver, 604-985-9463 1-877-310-9463
BC Wineguys – VQA Wine Store Nelson Nelson, 250-352-1130
Featured Winery Secret to Poplar Grove WINERY’s Soaring Success:
it Simple
KEEPING
Despite Rapid Expansion
a
By Dona Sturmanis
visit to state-of-the art Poplar Grove Winery on the slopes of the Naramata Bench is breathtaking. The winery’s contemporary design features wall-to-wall panoramic windows that create a tasting room experience where visitors have the chance to sip award-wining wines while enjoying one of the finest views of the Okanagan Valley.
It was only at the beginning of July in 2011 that Poplar Grove’s new 9,500 square foot winery opened, featuring a working winery, a showcase barrel hall and an expansive tasting room. By the time you read this, Summerland’s acclaimed Vanilla Pod eatery will have likely joined Poplar Grove at their fabulous winery as a year-round destination restaurant,
featured winery
featuring Chef Bruno Terroso’s cuisine inspired by fresh and seasonal local ingredients, and, of course, Poplar Grove wines. There are six core wines in Poplar Grove’s portfolio: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and signature blend Legacy. The secret to their award-winning, much lauded vintages is how they control and pick their grapes in the vineyard, as well as the extensive time the wines spend aging in the barrels and then in the bottle before release. Red wines, for example, spend at least a year and a half in French Oak barrels and another 18-30 months in the bottle. One of the original five wineries on the Naramata Bench, Poplar Grove was founded in 1993 when Ian Sutherland dedicated 2.5 acres of land to the planting of Cabernet Franc and Merlot grapes. “When I bought the farm at Poplar Grove Road it was an apple orchard, a beautiful piece of property on the lake for $188,000,” says founder Ian Sutherland. “I thought I could take out a couple of acres and plant grapes, making wine as a hobby. I called up nurserymen in Bordeaux and ordered 2,500 plants of Merlot and Cab Franc. It went well the first year so I took out another block of apple trees and learned how to root vines from cuttings.” As a boilermaker, Sutherland was able to use his talents to construct a lifter to move a 600 pound barrel and fabricate his own tanks. “My trade funded the winery. We never expected to make money.” The year 1995 was the first harvest, and Sutherland produced six barrels of Merlot and five barrels of Cabernet Franc to make 275 cases. The Poplar Grove Cab Franc received top honours at that year’s Okanagan Wine Festival. Those early days were “a lot of fun,” says Sutherland. Poplar Grove wines and cheeses were superb, handcrafted in limited quantities and hard to find, so highly prized by connoisseurs.
Poplar Grove won Gold at the 2011 Decanter World Wine Awards in London for 2008 Syrah, the only Gold awarded to a Canadian winery.
Moving Forward In 2007, Tony Holler became Poplar Grove’s majority owner and president, with Ian Sutherland and Barrie Sali completing the new ownership team. A former UBC emergency physician who had sold his company ID Biomedical Corporation, Holler was ready to get into the wine business. He was an avid wine collector with a 5,000-bottle wine cellar with labels from all over the world. He and his wife Barbara decided they wanted an Okanagan summer home, so they bought land and ended up next door to Ian Sutherland. Holler loved Poplar Grove wines, so the two got talking about going into business together. “I said if we could come together with a business plan, I would become a partner. I wanted a sustainable business,” says Holler. “We went to see consultants. We determined a 25,000 case winery was sustainable, but still controllable. The issue then was how we were going to access grapes. Poplar Grove was still small. It’s hard to control the quality of wines if the fruit is not estate-grown.” The Hollers decided to buy their own grape-growing land. After planting Merlot on five usable vineyard acres on the Naramata Bench lakeside property they had bought for their home, they purchased more land from elderly neighbours. More land in Osoyoos
magazine • SUMMER 2012
69
featured winery
Ian Sutherland, Barrie Sali, Steven Spurrier of Decanter Magazine, Tony Holler at the 2011 Decanter World Wine Awards Gala dinner in London
was bought; fruit trees were pulled out, the land treated, and Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cabernet Franc planted. In total, the Hollers brought to Poplar Grove 110 acres of prime vineyard sites. Added to Sutherland’s vineyards, this meant 100% estate-grown fruit for Poplar Grove. Sutherland’s wife, viticulturist Valeria Tate, oversees the technical aspects of grape growing and the whole vineyard team practices sustainable farming that results in grapes that truly express the terroir of each vineyard.
Onwards and Upwards Ian Sutherland continues as executive winemaker at Poplar Grove. In 2008, Stephan Arnason took on the position of winemaker and in 2011, Nadine Allandar was named assistant winemaker. For the past four years,
featured winery
Alain Sutre, internationally-acclaimed French winemaking consultant, has been offering his expertise. “We have a superb team and staff,” says Holler. “Between Ian and Stephan, it’s amazing how simple they keep the winemaking process.” As executive winemaker, Sutherland “gets to do more fun stuff” than he did when he was running the winery by himself. “I do more of the blending and during harvest drive around checking the blocks and determining exactly the right time to pick, one of the most influential decisions.” Holler thinks Poplar Grove’s flagship Legacy blended wine (Merlot, Cab Franc, Cab Sav) is absolutely “outstanding” as well as Cabernet Franc, which Poplar Grove is known for. Sutherland is very fond of Legacy as well as Cab Franc, Pinot Gris and “is surprised at how well the Syrah has performed.” The awards keep arriving, proving that Poplar Grove is doing things the right way as they’ve grown. They won Gold at the 2011 Decanter World Wine Awards in London for 2008 Syrah, the only Gold awarded to a Canadian winery. The Cabernet Franc 2007 won Lieutenant Governor’s Award for Excellence in British Columbia Wines and Poplar Grove Merlot 2006 won Double Gold at the All Canadian Wine Championships. “If there was one thing that we have done in our winemaking, it’s our barrel program that is longer than anyone else’s,” says Sutherland, “18 months in the barrel, 18 months in the cellar until it ready for sale. Our wines have always had the benefit of being completely ready when released.” Sutherland is excited about Poplar Grove’s other brand, entry level Monster Vineyards, which is a property away from Poplar Grove with a brand new 16,000 square foot production facility and tasting room. “It’s fun and friendly,” he says. Chainsaw carving was employed to create Monster Vineyards’ tasting bar flanked by two lake monster heads. Poplar Grove’s ongoing success is clearly buoyed by the new state-of-the-art winery with soon to be added Vanilla Pod restaurant, the vastly expanded vineyards for controlled estate grape growing and increased production. But clearly, at the root of it are the winemaking techniques. “We let the wine be itself,” concludes Sutherland. “No additives, no manipulation, just the natural expression of our Okanagan Valley, crafted and aged carefully.”
Holler was an avid wine collector with a 5,000bottle wine cellar with labels from all over the world.
magazine • SUMMER 2012
71
Rocky Mountaineer: Sumptuous Dining on a
Scenic
Railway By Roslyne Buchanan
l
ike beacons, the complimentary hot beverage carafes summon guests as they fumble into the Rocky Mountaineer station in Vancouver. It is, after all, an early departure and there’s still some sleep to shake off despite the thrill of anticipation, the comfort of last night’s lodgings, or the ease of the luggage transfer from the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver and bus to the station’s front door. Spoiled by the Fairmont’s Gold Level accommodations, I could have comfortably curled into the cozy bed in my elegant room and continued with my sweet dreams. As the caffeine kicked in, I wondered if the GoldLeaf Service would be comparable to the lovely guest lounge on my floor? How could the welcome be as warm as that of Mavis, the Fairmont’s golden retriever, eager to ensure lonely guests feel at home? Suddenly, arousing attention from the depth of my soul, bagpipes sounded to herald passengers to board. Passengers are directed to spacious seats on the second level in the domed car, greeted and assisted by an enthusiastic team of staff smiling above and beyond duty at this time of day. Before you can say “choo choo”, the whistle blows and our adventure begins. There were fleeting moments of confusion as the train laboured backwards, causing guests to look bewildered before the hosts assured us that we were merely moving into our forward-facing position on the main track eastbound. As the train eased forward, a raccoon raced along the rail as if the word was out to this urban scavenger that if he could just make this train, he’d hit the mother lode of a gourmet food supply. Seeing this masked, usually nocturnal bandit was a rare treat, thrilling the international visitors and Canadians not jaded by the damage it can cause in marauding urban landscapes. Alas, for him, he could not climb aboard to join us in the celebratory toast of freshly-squeezed orange juice topped with a splash of sparkling peach juice from the Okanagan Valley and the epicurean journey ahead.
Train Ride of Temptation Little wonder the trip is six-time winner of “World’s Leading Travel Experience by Train” in the World Travel Awards, chosen by Travel + Leisure magazine as “One of the World’s Best Life Changing Trips,” and “Named as One of the World’s Greatest Trips” by National Geographic. The Society of American Travel Writers said it was “The Best Train Experience in the World”; Lonely Planet called it “One of the World’s Ultimate Experiences,” Outside Magazine termed it “One of the Great Train Rides of the World,” and Mail Online stated it was not surprised it “has climbed towards the top of the list of Things To Do Before You Die.” And yes, the accolades go on! Three levels of service are provided by the Rocky Mountaineer with the common elements of “awe-inspiring scenery, captivating storytelling
magazine • SUMMER 2012
73
travel feature
by onboard hosts and locally-inspired cuisine celebrating the unique character of Western Canada.” RedLeaf cars offer large picture windows with delicious chilled meals served at your seat while the new SilverLeaf is a single-dome experience, presenting hot, plated breakfasts and lunches at your seat. For this expedition, it’s the GoldLeaf Service where guests settle into inviting leather seats with oversized windows morphing into the ceiling on the car’s upper floor to enjoy the majesty of the Rocky Mountains. Guests partake in one of the two seatings in the lower-level opulently decked out dining room below. On the two-day trip from Vancouver to Calgary, the groups are divided, with one at first sitting for breakfast and lunch and then it is reversed the following day. While the food presentation makes it difficult to take your eyes off your plate, large picture windows afford sweeping views as you join tables of four in the 36-seat dining section. Through the train’s speaker system, the commentary on Canada’s hinterland and identification of key landmarks, rushing rivers and glistening lakes continues. The remarks are actually audible despite the tinkling of glasses and forks on china, thanks to the magical hush of guests consuming gourmet delights. Four renowned chefs - Frederic Couton, Joseph Lassaga, Jean Pierre Guerin and Raoul Prigent - create an international flair from kitchens in Geneva, Spain and France that celebrates the distinctive character of Western Canadian cuisine in the decadent onboard menu. All told there is a culinary team of 85 employees, including eight sous chefs and two executive sous chefs to serve more than 100,000
travel feature
four wineries, four unique experiences,
one spectacular wine route.
rd
a deh
d rt r
barnaby rd
la
ke
e or sh
rd
stewart rd w
rd
p grioneve
crawford rd
Simply connect the dots on the Lakeshore Wine Route to discover the heritage of the Okanagan’s oldest vineyards: CedarCreek, St. Hubertus, Summerhill and Tantalus. With tastings, tours and dining, we are all only a short scenic drive from downtown Kelowna. Come spend the day with us.
gordon dr
n
o bs ho
lakeshore rd
tantalus vineyards
okanagan lake
summerhill pyramid winery
kelowna
st. hubertus estate winery cedarcreek estate winery
travel feature
Little wonder the trip is six-time winner of "World's Leading Travel Experience by Train" in the World Travel Awards.
international guests who travel the Rocky Mountaineer annually. Each day, scrumptious meals for up to 72 guests per coach and four meal seatings daily are prepared by the talented GoldLeaf Service chefs. I had the opportunity to meet with Executive Sous Chef Philippe Segur. Owner of Vancouver’s Le Bistro Chez Michel from March 2000 to January 2012 when he joined the Rocky Mountain Catering Co., he was executive chef at Chez Michel and responsible for its outside catering services. His training included Hìtellerie School in Souillac, France, Lycee technique hotelier de Toulouse, and Brevet D'etude Professionelle de CuisineLycee Technique Hotelier de. Regarded as an extraordinary restaurateur, Chef Segur spoke of the challenges and art in cooking on board a moving train. He gave me a tour of the unique rolling restaurant environment with its custom-made stainless steel galley where space limitations necessitate an innovative set up. Doors on fridges, ovens and cupboards lock as a safety precaution and staff must be skilled to operate seamlessly in this setting that is “highly technical with a limited margin for error.” “It attracts a specific type of person who is well-organized, self-disciplined and experienced in the kitchen,” he points out. “These are people who stay positive whatever the circumstances, get along well with co-workers, can persevere through long hours and are adaptable to be away from home so much.” Months ahead the menu is planned with a focus on the finest ingredients indigenous to two of Canada’s most bountiful regions, British Columbia and Alberta, and B.C. wine pairings selected. For breakfast, tempting à la carte creations such as eggs Benedict, buttermilk pancakes, yogurt parfaits, omelettes and scrambled eggs with salmon and caviar are preceded by a fresh fruit plate, croissants or rolls and accompanied by freshly-squeezed juice, tea, coffee or hot chocolate. At lunch, such choices as
B.C. wild salmon or prawns, Fraser Valley chicken, prime Alberta beef and pork await as well as vegetarian and lighter choices such as layered vegetables and pastas. There is also a choice of soup or salad and wine such as Sumac Ridge Merlot or Unoaked Chardonnay and a decadent dessert tops off the feast. Fear not that you will grow too famished when it’s your turn to take the second seating. While you wait for your meal, beverages are served with warm bannock and strawberry preserves before breakfast and a cracker and cheese plate before lunch. Thirst, too, is never an issue as the hosts ply you with complimentary beverages from juice, pop, water, tea and coffee to wine, spirits, beer and cider throughout the entire day.
Spectacular Scenery and Service To ensure the stunning scenery gets top billing, guests spend the night in Kamloops and rise early for day two. Our train was somewhat delayed on the tracks in a number of locations to provide right-of-way to freight trains because in Canada, guests were advised, the rails still serve as an important shipping artery. I stayed in the recently renovated Hotel 540 and was treated to a specially selected Rocky Mountaineer menu. Many guests opted to explore Kamloops and our Rocky Mountaineers were gracious and helpful in advice on local specialty restaurants.
Executive Chef Frederic Couton
Redefining the Winery Experience...
Join us this Canada Day Long Weekend for the launch of our new outdoor Ice Bar. Soak in the view on our one-of-a-kind full service outdoor tasting lounge, with an ice covered tasting bar top.
The desert heat has never been so cool...
Perfectly placed to make fine wine and good friends.
Canadian Concert Series May 26th - The Boom Booms June 23rd - Acres of Lions July 28th - Redeye Empire August 25th - Said the Whale GRAND FINALE September 8th - Sloan
tinhorn.com R E S TAU R A N T
On the second day, if you remain onboard after Banff, the first-rate culinary ritual carries on with a twist. You are served a light dinner at your seat such as a tantalizing small plate of focaccia, quiche, prawns with hummus, olive oil and balsamic vinegar dip followed by dessert - rich chocolate cake on our tour. Given the enormity of this gastronomic odyssey and the sheer hopelessness in resisting such superbly-presented bounty, the fact that you can step out periodically into the vestibule for a lung full of crisp mountain air is a bonus you will breathe in. Did I mention the scenery? You will be humming “O Canada!� to the gentle clickity-clack of the train as you drink in the ever-changing dramatic landscape, sight wildlife, salute The Last Spike at Craigellachie, and wind through the engineering feat of the spiral tunnels. Passengers came from around the world. I met folks from Australia, Brazil, England, Scotland, United States and even Canada. Most came on the recommendation of friends or travel agents and everyone raved that they would be spreading the good word forward. Stirred by the spectacular time shared, when our farewells were said, the exemplary staff and guests seemed like old friends and smiles forever inscribed in memory. www.rockymountaineer.com Twitter: @rmountaineer www.facebook.com/RockyMountaineerTrain www.fairmont.com/hotelvancouver www.hotel540.ca Photos courtesy of Rocky Mountaineer
travel feature
NO MISBEHAVIN' for
Misconduct This Summer the Party’s in The Kitchen
w
By Roslyne Buchanan
hen friends and family gather to share in life’s simple pleasures like good food and drink, the party inevitably ends up in the kitchen. It is with this same spirit of casual camaraderie that Misconduct Wine Co. opens its rustic European-style eatery - The Kitchen - to complement its wine tasting bar. Fans of former Amante Restaurant owner Chef Abul Adame will be delighted to learn that he has crafted the menu to include a signature paella, charcuterie platters and small plates combining Mexican and Portuguese traditions. Chef Adame plans to refresh the menu on a short rotation of four to seven days and will capitalize on the outside barbecue to create tapas and sandwiches to be listed on a blackboard. Guests can sidle up to the bar, order their food and wine and then take it to a counter or table
inside or on the outdoor deck to enjoy it along with views of vineyards, orchards and Okanagan Lake. The Kitchen opens daily at 11 a.m. starting mid-June through October. This laid back mode is completely in keeping with co-owners Richard and Twylla da Silva’s joyful approach toward their winery. While Chef Adame’s heritage is Mexican and Richard’s Portuguese, they share the tradition of food and wine as a companion to every day life. “Growing grapes and winemaking is just part of food and life,” says Richard. “We care about the quality of the food we eat and the wine we drink. We just don’t want to take ourselves too seriously.”
An UnCrushable Past This playful irreverence is part of the brand with its name Misconduct derived from Richard’s youth as a rebel. “I was a nightmare to my family and society in my early '20s,” he explains. When the tasting room opened in 2011, homage was paid to this theme and to the roaring '20s by including antiques and decor to match. You will also find it in play on Misconduct’s labels and website. And it’s a tongue-in-cheek salute to The UnCrushables, who are the “silent” partners in the company, his family and their friends who arrived in the Okanagan from Portugal as farmers and grape growers in 1956. The location on Upper Bench Road, between Penticton and Naramata is convenient for year-round customers and it is fitting because the area was where his ancestors settled before moving to Oliver, where he was born and raised. Richard treasures an historic Penticton newspaper clipping which talks about the original five couples arriving in the Okanagan from the Azores Island of Terceira, Portugal. True to form, he particularly gets a chuckle from the acceptable tone of the day in which the article alludes to their olive skin and states, “Large, flashing dark eyes, and glossy black hair make them exotic here.” “Even then,” he jokes, “our partners were quite mysterious.” Growing up on a farm was key to Richard’s knowledge of the land. “All of the Portuguese families made wine from the vineyards they had planted and good wine was part of my life from the beginning.”
“All of the Portuguese families made wine from the vineyards they had planted and good wine was part of my life from the beginning.”
magazine • SUMMER 2012
81
Take Bootleg and Suspect Wines Seriously
Richard behind the tasting counter
The roaring '20s and rustic decor are carried throughout to create a comfortable and congenial ambience.
Prior to building its own facility, Misconduct made wines at other wineries and grapes were sourced from across the Okanagan. Richard augmented his family’s winemaking lessons through front line experience in that process and is thankful for what he learned from some of the valley’s best winemakers. Two tiers of wines are offered including the Bootleg Series and the Suspect Series. The Bootleg Series, with its highly creative labels, is made with the “working Joe” in mind, as Richard puts it. These wines include The Big Take - as implied, a big red Bordeaux blend; Misfit - a lovely Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Viognier blend; and Massacre Rose - a fruity blend of seven varietals. The Suspect Series is the upper tier that is the “deconstruction” of the Bootleg Series, where single components are assessed and elevated to create “serious and cellarable wines.” Currently these series include 2009 Chenin Blanc/Viognier, 2008 Syrah/Malbec and 2009 Pinot Noir. Committed to giving customers a pleasant and unique experience, Misconduct will host fun-loving events from mid-June to October such as concerts on a number of weekend evenings. Follow the website, Facebook or Twitter for details. Guest rooms are under construction and the gift shop has been refreshed as part of the tasting room renovation. The roaring '20s and rustic decor are carried throughout to create a comfortable and congenial ambience. Don’t let the easy-going tone mislead you. Even the winery dog Mariner is a Portuguese Water Dog, which gives you insight into the attention to detail. Misconduct Wine Co. 375 Upper Bench Road North, Penticton, B.C. P: 1-800-851-0903 F: 1-866-215-6646 Misconductwineco.com Facebook: facebook.com/MisconductWineCo Twitter: @misconductwines
The outdoor patio overlooking the Misconduct vineyards 82
magazine • SUMMER 2012
John Schreiner on Wine
HOW TO
become A wineEXPERT
i
n 1972 when I needed to learn more about wine, I found a book called Champagne is for Breakfast by George Bain, who was then a wine and sports columnist for The Globe and Mail.
It was (and still is) vastly entertaining. His chapter on the wines of Alsace, for example, begins with this heading: “Well, not all Alsatians have wet noses.” It was his way of defusing the snobbery and obscurantism of so-called wine experts that puts off average wine lovers. George Bain put us at ease. Building your wine knowledge starts by reading general survey books. The Bain book is no longer in print and probably has become dated. But Natalie Maclean, a lively Ottawa writer, has two that are a good place to start: Red, White and Drunk All Over; and Unquenchable: A Tipsy Quest for the World’s Best Bargain Wines. If you want to drill deeper, get Karen MacNeil’s The Wine Bible. The next step is to join a wine tasting club. Those who live in larger cities can choose from clubs dedicated to American wines, British Columbia wines, Australian and other southern hemisphere wines, and French wines. Most clubs, which meet six to 10 times a year, bring in winemakers or experts to lead the tastings in a relaxed social setting. Almost without fail, the winemakers bring some rare and exceptional wines that you can’t buy easily, if you can afford them. I once belonged to a French club that brought in the general manager of Château Mouton Rothschild and 10 of its best wines, including the legendary 1945 vintage, which sells for thousands of dollars in auctions - if it is still available. If there is no wine club in your community, start your own with five or 10 friends and meet in your homes. By sharing the costs, it becomes affordable to taste the occasional $100 bottle, like Antinori Tignanello. Not enough wine glasses? Have each
By John Schreiner
person bring his or her own. And don’t go overboard with the food because this is a wine tasting club. While you can learn a lot about wine on your own, you should consider the courses offered by many post-secondary institutions. For example, the University of British Columbia’s Continuing Education Studies offers 14 different courses, from a basic introduction to a two-week wine and food tour in southern France with a chef. The ultimate is to go wine touring. All major Okanagan wineries offer tutored VIP tastings that are well worth the modest premium charged above regular tasting room fee. Every wine region I can think of has locally-based tour companies easily booked over the Internet. You can visit wineries on your own but it often helps to have an introduction. And most tour companies make sure that you receive the red carpet treatment - and I don’t mean spilled wine!
IT'S TIME FOR
BC VQA Wines to GO Global
t
By Rhys Pender, MW
he British Columbia (B.C.) wine industry is entering its next chapter, getting ready to meet the demands of the future. Since the birth of the modern B.C. wine industry in the early 1990s, change and evolution has been constant. As B.C. wine enters its next phase, vineyard expansion has slowed and the large-scale plantings from the mid 2000s onwards are starting to come into production. The wine quality has never been better as grape growers and winemakers have deepened their understanding of B.C.’s unique terroir. But for the first time, B.C. will have to look seriously at focusing on selling wine beyond its provincial borders. It is time for B.C. to tell its wine story across Canada and beyond.
Gray Monk Winery is celebrating three anniversaries this year
It is fitting, as B.C. wine begins this new chapter, that recent years have been those of celebrating milestones. Last issue we looked at B.C. wines in the past. The pioneers can look back proudly on what they have achieved and the industry they helped conceive. In 2011, CedarCreek celebrated 25 vintages of making wine in the Okanagan,
Sumac Ridge 30 years and Andrew Peller 50 years and three generations of making wine in B.C.. In 2012, Gray Monk witnessed a triple anniversary: 30 years of producing wines, 40 years of vines planted in the Okanagan and 50 years of marriage for owners George and Trudy Heiss. The VQA quality control system has now been in place for 22 years. Many of the pioneers have now reached the refined state of life where they could retire, but knowing their level of passion for the industry, likely won’t. In any case, there is a new wave of passionate wine people coming through the ranks ready to take batons and help lead B.C. wine on its next adventure. It is an interesting set of circumstances that has conspired to propel B.C. into this next adventure. Throughout the mid 2000s, B.C. could not produce enough wine to meet the ravenous local demand. Vineyards were planted rapidly to try to correct the imbalance of supply and demand, resulting in acreage increasing by 50% between 2006 and 2008 alone. If not for some severe winter conditions in 2008 and 2009, there would have been a lot more wine to go around. Now, with a couple of mild winters, the damaged vines replanted and starting to produce again, production is likely to increase sharply. It is worth noting that even now with approximately 10,000 acres of vines planted, B.C. still hasn’t produced as much wine as it did in 2006. Like any good thriller, this new chapter has a further twist. The well-publicized downturn in the economy has, just very slightly, dampened the demand for wine, resulting in B.C. finding itself for the very first time in the unusual position of experiencing a drop in sales. While a 1.3% decline in BC VQA sales is nothing to panic about, especially considerably the economic climate, it is amplified by the fact that there is about to be a lot more wine on the scene. This situation could have those wineries inclined to nerves agonizing over their future, but looking at the long-term scheme of things, it is, instead, a great opportunity. For the most part, BC VQA wine is sold in B.C. and because of this, the quality of the wines remains largely unknown in the wider reaches of the wine world. Ask anyone internationally what they know about B.C. wine and they may mention Icewine, but few will be aware of the vast quality array of local wines. While it is nice for British Columbians to have their own little treasure chest of wines and not share them with anyone else, it doesn’t do much for expanding and building the image of B.C. wine. Hence the opportunity. It is time to take the message of what the B.C. wine industry is doing further afield. The next pioneers of the industry will take 100% B.C. grown and made wine to the world and help earn an international reputation as a top quality wine region. To do this, it might be necessary to specialize to some degree, but with which grape varieties remains to be seen. This next phase of the B.C. wine industry will be based entirely on wine quality, something that has improved constantly since the early learning days of previous decades. The reason for the improvement of B.C. wine quality is down to experience, specifically in furthering the understanding of the one-of-a-kind climate of the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys that produces 90% of all B.C. wines. When a wine industry begins, it has to follow some kind of world benchmark
Taste BC Heritage
Our family planted some of the first vineyards in the province, and in 2001, after 40 years of growing grapes for others, we opened Mt. Boucherie Family Estate Winery. Here, winemaker Jim Faulkner creates a range of VQA wines that offers something for everyone. From our family to yours, we hope you enjoy!
Join the free Mt. Boucherie Wine Lovers’ Wine Club! Receive our newsletter, advanced notification of new releases, VIP invites, case lot prices and more! Wine shop open seven days a week May 1 – October 30, 10am – 6pm November 1 – April 30, 11am – 5pm MT. BOUCHERIE FAMILY ESTATE WINERY 829 DOUGLAS ROAD WEST KELOWNA BC V1Z 1N9 250-769-8803 · TOLL FREE 1-877-684-2748
www.mtboucheriewinery.com Talk to us on Twitter @mtboucheriewine Like us on Facebook www.facebook.com/mtboucheriewine
British Columbia wines receive serious recognition at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival
Oliver, BC
while it finds its personality. As it matures, it figures out who it is and regional wine styles start to form. The greatest treasure of the Okanagan/Similkameen climate is that there is nowhere else like it in the world. It is not a cool climate region, as many tag it, but rather a short season hot climate with incomparable extremes between high and low temperatures. Any attempt to follow other world wine styles simply won’t work. The Okanagan/Similkameen is destined to make wines that are unique in the world. Not to forget the other 10% of B.C. wines, too, as the Fraser Valley, Vancouver Island and B.C. Gulf Islands, although small, produce unique and often high quality wines; they are just a little harder to obtain. B.C. wine has come an astoundingly long way in what, for the change-resistant wine world, is a very short period of time. Quality has improved in leaps and bounds as the new generation of internationally-trained grape growers and winemakers have continued the pioneering efforts to develop a deep understanding of B.C.’s unique climates. It is time to expand the reach of B.C.’s wines and spread the message to a wider audience. All that needs to be figured out now is what B.C.’s specialty will be. What will the future look like for B.C. wine? This is the second in a three-part series by Rhys Pender on the B.C. wine industry and BC VQA. Photos courtesy of the BC Wine Institute
• www.hestercreek.com • 1.250.498.4435 • info@hestercreek.com
CedarCreek has been making wines for a quarter century
IntroducIng our new labels... dostana and 3cru
in the pursuit of HARMONY the taste of EXCELLENCE
Membership includes access to Poplar Grove’s limited release member only wines, discounts and an invitation to the annual Wine Club Party!
250.768.9700 .
3361 .Glencoe Rd. West Kelowna BC V4T 1M1 kalalawines.ca
For more information on Poplar Grove’s wine club visit: www.poplargrove.ca
Wine Region: Similkameen
SURPRISES in the
Similkameen a
Distinctive Wines and Wineries Make an Impression By Dona Sturmanis
ppreciators of the grape think the Okanagan Valley is B.C.’s ultimate destination for wine touring. Right next door is what enRoute Magazine calls one of the “world’s five best wine regions you’ve never heard of,” the up-and-coming Similkameen Valley. Thirty minutes south of Penticton and 20 minutes from Osoyoos, this is a semi-desert environment of spectacular mountains and terrain with excellent conditions for grapes, fruits and vegetables and other farming endeavours. In fact, there are over 600 acres of vineyards and numerous fruit orchards in this region known as the Organic Farming Capital of Canada, where more than 40% of the crops are grown organically.
“We’ve got something going with terroir that makes people notice,” says John Weber, owner of Orofino. “The unique combination of the high number of sunshine days, the soil profiles and the way the wind gently engages the vineyards and orchards helps distinguish the Similkameen fruit and grape wines from the other wine regions. The wineries are putting together wines that make an impression for our valley. Anyone who comes here finds that we tend to over-deliver on the wines, events and scenery.” Touring Similkameen wine country will take about a day—a good guidebook helps. There’s also lots of family-friendly activity here from the historic Grist Mill and Gardens in Keremeos to the old Mascot Gold Mine in Hedley.
Wineries Join to Highlight Unique Similkameen The Similkameen Wineries Association (SimilkameenWine.com) came together almost four years ago to help put the spotlight on the exciting developments in this region. The eight members, Cerelia, Clos du Soleil, Eau Vivre, Forbidden Fruit, Orofino, Robin Ridge, Rustic Roots and Seven Stones collectively market and advertise together. “The Association is unique because it’s made up of small family-run operations,” says Orofino’s Weber, who also happens to be its past president. All that we’ve done so far has worked really well.” Every summer the Association hosts the Similkameen BBQ King event on the grounds of the historic Grist Mill and Gardens in Keremeos. Eight chefs
pair with the eight winery members to vie for the title of Similkameen BBQ King or Queen... and the guests are the judges! This year’s event takes place from 5-8 p.m. on July 14. Tickets can be purchased on the association’s website at www.SimilkameenWine.com
The Rising Wineries of the Similkameen Every winery in this special area has a colourful personality and unique wines which win many awards and accolades, contributing to the valley’s growing profile. Established in 2009 by the Mutch family, Cerelia Vineyards & Estate Winery on Ferko Road near Cawston is named after an ancient Roman festival celebrating Ceres, goddess of harvest. Winemaker Megan Mutch produces 600-1,000 cases a year from various vinifera grapes grown on the 20 acre estate from Chardonnay to Cabernet Franc to award-winning signature blend Misceo. Clos du Soleil Winery on Upper Bench Road outside of Keremeos was started in 2006 on 10 acres by a small group of wine appreciators led by Spencer Massie and Les LeQuelenec. Renowned winemaker Ann Sperling creates Bordeaux-style wines with a New World edge. Flagship blends include red Signature and white Capella; in the spring, they released Rose 2011, from Cabernet Sauvignon, its first ever. Eau Vivre Winery, on Lowe Drive in Cawston, was started by Dale Wright and Jeraldine Estin as a family-owned and operated boutique winery on a three-acre property in 2009. Fifteen hundred cases of handcrafted small lot wines are produced a year by winemaker Wright: Chardonnay, Gerwütztraminer, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. This year they will be launching a sparkling rosé and a big Bordeaux blend, and their Malbec will be returning again with a new vintage. Cawston’s Forbidden Fruit Winery is located on Ven’Amour Organic Farms, which is celebrating its 35th year of organic farming by releasing four new organic grape wines. This Sumac Road winery is owned by Steve Venables and Kim Brind’Amour, specializing in small lot wines (2,800 cases a year) produced from Similkameen and Okanagan grapes and fruit since it opened in 2005. Other 2011 releases include a selection from their famous fruit vintages, from Bliss, a Rainier White Cherry Port to Flirt, a Sparkling Peach. Canada’s only straw bale winery, six-acre Orofino, owned by John and Virginia Weber on Barcelo Road, was constructed with a unique eco-friendly method. Among wines available at the end of May were Orofino’s first bubbly, Moscato Frizzante 2011, Riesling 2010, Pinot Gris 2011, Pinot Noir 2010, Red Bridge single vineyard Merlot 2010, Beleza Bordeaux blend 2009 and Syrah 2010. Robin Ridge Winery on Middle Bench Road in Keremeos was started in 2006 by Tim and Caroline Cottrill. Their unique style of training vines
magazine • SUMMER 2012
89
on this 18 acre property produces optimally ripe grapes, producing intense, unique flavours. Released in spring were 2010 Pinot Noir and their award winning 2010 Gamay and 2009 Reserve Merlot. New this season is a blush they will be offering called Flamingo. The logo of Rustic Roots Winery depicts a century-old Snow Apple tree still on the property of its home, Harker’s Organics, a 30 acre organic farm founded by the Harker family (nee Manery) in 1888. Located on Highway 3 in Cawston, four-year old Rustic Roots produces award-winning fruit wines created by winemaker Sara Harker. Spring releases include 2010 Mulberry Pear, and three new sparkling vintages; 2011 Pippin, 2011 Fameuse and Iced Orin Frizzante. Dessert wine 2009 Santa Rosa Plum is a favourite. On 20 acres of benchland on Highway 3 near Cawston, Vivianne and George Hanson created Seven Stones Winery, with the first vineyard plantings in 2000 and 2001. Winemaker George produces serious complex wines such as award-winning 2009 Speaking Rock Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009 Cabernet Franc, the velvety red blend 2008 Meritage and 2009 Row 128 Merlot. For more information on the Similkameen Wineries Associa tion, visit SimilkameenWine.com to view the informative YouTube video, produced in association with Savour magazine.
The tranquil Similkameen Valley is yours to discover. CERELIA VINEYARDS & ESTATE WINERY 2235 Ferko Rd. Cawston, BC 250.499.8000 www.Cerelia.ca CLOS DU SOLEIL WINERY 2568 Upper Bench Rd. Keremeos, BC 250.499.2831 www.ClosduSoleil.ca EAU VIVRE WINERY 716 Lowe Dr. Cawston, BC 250.499.2655 www.EauVivreWinery.ca FORBIDDEN FRUIT WINERY 620 Sumac Rd. Cawston, BC 250.499.2649 www.ForbiddenFruitWines.com OROFINO 2152 Barcelo Rd. Cawston, BC 250.499.0068 www.OrofinoVineyards.com ROBIN RIDGE WINERY 2686 Middle Bench Rd. Keremeos, BC 250.499.5504 www.RobinRidgeWinery.com RUSTIC ROOTS WINERY 2238 Hwy. 3 Cawston, BC 250.499.2754 www.RusticRootsWinery.com
Recently
named by enRoute
Magazine as “one of the world’s 5 best wine regions you’ve never heard
of,”
the
Similkameen
wineries are starting to get some of the attention they deserve. This little patch of vineyards and orchards in the hot, dry and sunny Similkameen Valley is turning out some stunning grape and fruit wines. Set amongst the dramatic backdrop of craggy mountains, it is not surprising that wine lovers are starting to take notice.
SEVEN STONES WINERY 1143 Hwy. 3 Cawston, BC 250.499.2144 www.SevenStones.ca
info@SimilkameenWine.com
www.SimilkameenWine.com
BC VQA tasting notes
Summer's top 10 picks for Taste and Value
By Rhys Pender, MW
Joie Farm 2011 Pinot Blanc Okanagan Valley BC VQA $23
Pinot Blanc is a bit of an unsung hero of the Okanagan. It makes delicious wines but without any international pedigree, it doesn’t get the respect it deserves. The Joie 2011 is excellent with lemon, apple peel, apple blossom and stone fruit aromas and a quite full yet crisp intensely flavoured palate. Flavours of ripe apple, pomello, blood orange, pear, mineral and passion fruit and floral notes linger on a long finish.
Sandhill 2010 Pinot Gris King Family Vineyard, Okanagan Valley BC VQA
Quails’ Gate 2011 Chenin Blanc Okanagan Valley BC VQA $19
Chenin Blanc appears under a variety of different styles. The Quails’ Gate selection shows the variety’s ripe melon, honey, nectarine and pear aromatics with refreshing citrus notes. The palate is medium-bodied, but crisp and racy with mineral acidity, chalk, lemon, pear and apple notes and a hint of honey before the long blood orange-like finish kicks in.
$19
BC’s most planted white grape often offers good value for money. This single-vineyard wine from the Naramata Bench has aromas of pear skin, grapefruit, lemon, honeydew melon and some pretty, subtle floral notes. The palate is dry with crisp fresh acidity, pear, melon, grapefruit and nectarine on the long finish.
92
magazine • SUMMER 2012
Peller Estates 2009 Private Reserve Syrah British Columbia BC VQA $20
The Peller Private Reserve range offers great value 100% B.C. wine. This deep ruby-coloured Syrah has aromas of raspberry, bacon, chocolate, oak and the variety’s trade mark scent of black pepper. The palate is quite full and lush with ripe tannins and flavours of blueberry, blackberry, custard, chocolate and vanilla with some savoury roast herb and paprika notes on the finish.
BC VQA tasting notes These wines are available at BC VQA retail locations.
CedarCreek 2008 Cabernet Merlot Okanagan Valley BC VQA $19
Cabernet Merlot blends are often premium products, but this one under $20 is a safe bet. There are lots of oak-driven aromas of custard, chocolate and nut with some black cherry fruit and savoury burlap notes. The palate is quite full with crisp refreshing acidity and plum, dried strawberry and flavours from bottle age of orange zest, spice, leather, roast herb and some peppery notes. Tannins are a little astringent, but there is plenty of character for the price.
Tinhorn Creek 2011 Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley BC VQA $18
Tinhorn Creek is known for delivering great value and this 2011 Pinot Gris is a very expressive version of the variety. The aromas include cantaloupe melon, ripe pear, pineapple and grapefruit aromas. The palate has crisp acidity and good length with lemon, mineral notes, honey, apple blossom, orange and a savoury lime pith note.
Sandhill 2010 Chardonnay Estate $18
Okanagan Valley BC VQA
It is not often you get gold medal winning Chardonnay at under $20. This wine won the only Canadian gold medal at Chardonnay du Monde. Made in the fuller, richer, custardy oak, caramel, buttery and tropical fruit style, it is a soft, big, rich Chardonnay. Flavours of pineapple, sweet melon, mango, peach, lemon and papaya linger on a long finish.
Gehringer Brothers 2010 Private Reserve Riesling Okanagan Valley BC VQA $15
A delicious wine for $15, this Riesling has aromas of apple, peach, lemon, pear and a touch of the typical varietal petrol/kerosene nose. The palate is just off-dry but balanced by crisp acidity and the flavours of chalk, mineral, lemon, green apple, nectarine, and some savoury green herbal notes stay on the long, fresh finish.
See Ya Later 2009 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley BC VQA $22
St Hubertus 2010 Oak Bay Gewurztraminer Okanagan Valley BC VQA $17
Launches with an intense nose showing classic Pinot Noir characteristics of earthy, vegetal, burlap and sweet, healthy compost with bright raspberry and strawberry fruit. The palate is soft in acidity and tannin with a silky texture and dried cherry, more strawberry and leather, peppermint and some charred meat notes with a medium length finish.
Nicely shows the exuberant side of this very floral, aromatic grape. The intense aromas of rose petal, lychee, sweet baking spices, peach, tinned mandarin and ripe cantaloupe leap from the glass. The palate is off-dry, lushly textured with ripe stone fruit, fleshy tropical paw paw, sherbet, rose petal and spice with a long finish.
magazine • SUMMER 2012
93
BC VQA Wines
BCRestaurants And Dinersappreciate wines BC
VQA i
By Dona Sturmanis
t can’t be a surprise that more eateries in British Columbia than ever are choosing to carry BC VQA wines. The number of wines and wineries are growing, the quality is rising, diners are becoming more discerning, and restaurateurs are appreciating the selection, price points and service. They’re also choosing BC VQA vintages to compliment their growing emphasis on dishes with locally-grown and sourced ingredients.
Vancouver
Raincity Grill, Vancouver
94
magazine • SUMMER 2012
“Our wine list, which exclusively features Pacific Northwest wines, focuses on British Columbian wines from the Okanagan Valley, Salt Spring Island, Cowichan and the Fraser Valley,” says Kyle Gartlan-Close, sommelier at Vancouver’s Raincity Grill. “We continually offer a rotating selection of over 25 different BC VQA wines. Some of my personal favourites at the moment include the crisp, bright and expressive Rieslings made by David Patterson at Tantalus Vineyards; the nuanced and elegantly-layered Meritage blends by Lawrence Herder at Herder Vineyards in the Similkameen; and the honeyed, fresh and floral Muscat from Joie Farms.” Raincity Grill serves Pacific Northwest locally purveyed and grown farm-to-table cuisine to food-conscious locavores and tourists seeking a truly B.C. dining experience. “The BC VQA wines I select for Raincity are all high quality wines created with artisan craftsmanship. The BC VQA designation indicates that the wine is produced by a dedicated vintner whose focus is on bottling true expressions of British Columbia.” Gartlan-Close says customers tend to prefer well-crafted wines that offer a density of fruit, as well as balanced acidity and controlled oak. “In particular, cooler Okanagan Valley vintages from 2010 and 2011 are quite popular.”
BC VQA wines
“We’re proud to support our local wine community and select wines of international calibre and authentically local style,” says Richard Cooper, outlets manager of Vancouver’s Fairmont Waterfront about its Herons West Coast Kitchen + Bar. International diners here love Executive Chef Dana Hauser’s innovative West Coast seafood and dishes created from fresh, sustainable ingredients. Herons carries a staggering 42 BC VQA labels ranging from Black Hills to Herons West Coast Kitchen, Vancouver Burrowing Owl; Cooper says guests particular enjoy Blasted Church Pinot Gris and Clos du Soleil Signature.
Victoria “We blend European and Asian styles to combine unique flavours and visually stunning presentations of great local food for a clientele from young adults to retires,” says Tim Petropoulos, managing partner of Victoria’s Fireside Grill. The restaurant carries approximately 25 B.C. wines, 15 of which are BC VQA, including the likes of See Ya Later Ranch Gewürztraminer, Hester Creek Cabernet/ Merlot and Mount Boucherie Pinot Gris. “When selecting many of our BC VQA wines, we consider availability, how well a particular vintage did that year, and the current trends for our demographics in the area. Also, the direct delivery options offered by many of the B.C. wineries is a great way to get your product without waiting for items through the government LDB system.” Fireside Grill, Victoria
BC VQA wines
Cabana's, Kelowna
Mission Hill, Sumac Ridge, Quails Gate and Inniskillin are the most popular BC VQA wines at the Fireside Grill.
Okanagan Kelowna’s Cabana Bar + Grille, featuring the cuisine of Chef Ned Bell, specializes in West Coast cuisine using as much local product as possible. The popular eatery boasts an impressive 40 BC VQA wines from the likes of Summerhill, Red Rooster, Meyer Family Vineyards, Church & State and many more.
Ricardo's, Lake Country
“We chose BC VQA wines to support locally, to ensure the high quality standards set forth by the BC VQA and because our guests demand it,” says partner/ manager Jay Blackford. Favourite customers selections come from Gray Monk and CedarCreek. “As for how many BC VQA wines, I would estimate we carry 50,” says Luke Atherton, bar manager at Ricardo’s in Lake Country. This Italian-Mediterranean restaurant has selections from, among others, Stag’s Hollow, Nk’Mip, Fairview Cellars, Stoneboat and Lake Breeze. “I pick the wines because they reach a certain standard to what I feel is quality with a good price point.” Big movers on a weekly basis include those from Wild Goose, Church & State and Burrowing Owl. “Surprisingly, it’s not the bigger and more well-known wineries that sell the best.”
Kamloops Terra Restaurant in Kamloops specializes in seasonal, locally-sourced cuisine for a diverse cross-section of guests from professionals to travelers staying at area hotels. Terra boasts an exclusive B.C. wine list, including a dozen selections of BC VQA wines by the glass. According to co-owner Andrea Broaders-Tombs, choices are made based on value, diversity, food pairings, suggestions, samplings, ratings and reviews. “It’s no surprise that wines from the wineries we have partnered with to host events, fundraisers, wine dinners, etc., tend to be the biggest movers on the list. The staff know the stories and the people behind the wineries and have a better understanding and appreciation for the wines.”
Terra Restaurant, Kamloops
BC VQA wine scene
NEW ADDITIONS to the
wine scene
BC VQA
Heaven’s Gate Estate Winery
Physical location: 8001 Happy Valley Road, Summerland Phone: 778-516-5505 Website: heavensgatewinery.ca Twitter handle: @heavensgatewine Facebook page: Heaven’s Gate Estate Winery Wineshop open: May 1 to October 31 11 am to 5 pm daily and by appointment November to April Winemaker: Andy Sarglepp Varietals: Merlot; Gamay Noir; Malbec; Sauvignon Blanc; Semillon; Pinot Gris; Gewürztraminer Total production: 1,545 cases (2010) Distribution: Wine shop and VQA stores
h
eaven’s Gate Estate Winery opened August 12, 2011 in Summerland with its unique little cottage, a log cabin, as their tasting room. They also wanted to share their outdoor beauty with many, which includes a cascading fountain on the patio and spacious luxury seating.
“Quality, not quantity” is the Heaven’s Gate motto about their handcrafted wines. They also wanted to create their winery and wine shop as a little piece of heaven for guests to remember and enjoy. Winemaker and owner Andy Sarglepp had a peach orchard on this location for over 20 years and then turned his love of growing to grapes. The first vines, imported from France, were planted in spring, 2009. “Bring a picnic lunch to enjoy while savouring a glass of your favourite wine on our beautiful patio,” says the winemaker. Guests can choose a wide range from 2009 Merlot to the just-released red blend Revelation. 98
magazine • SUMMER 2012
BC VQA wine scene
Niche Wine Co.
Phone: 604.733.1100 Website: nichewinecompany.com Twitter: @nichewineco Facebook page: Niche Wine Company Winemaker: James Schlosser Varietals: Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Rosé, Pinot Noir, Foch Distribution: VQA, liquor stores, select restaurants
w
est Kelowna’s Niche Wine Co. is not a large company, but making wine is their passion, with grapes harvested from small batch crops. Owners James and Joanna Schlosser lovingly produce wines from a farmer’s perspective, enjoying their long days in muddy boots, complete with grape-stained palms. In fact, the winery is on the farm that is owned by their parents. Niche wines are popular in the Lower Mainland and in September of last year, the winery took part in the Toast to the Coast event at the Vancouver Aquarium, a celebration of conservation featuring 500 foodies and wine lovers in a magical after-hours experience. The wines released in 2011 from this ecologically-conscious winery include +124 Reserve Foch and +124 Pinot Noir from 2010, from hand-picked, basket pressed grapes and aged in French and American oak barrels for just shy of a year and then an additional 124 days in new American oak barrels. Add Rose 2011, Chardonnay 2011 and Riesling 2011 and a selection of others...and you have great wines from a naturally winning winery.
Fruit Liqueurs, Eau de Vie Absinthe, Gin, Vodka & Whisky
Tours & Tastings Daily 267 Bernard Ave, Kelowna 778 484 5174 2920 - 28th Ave, Vernon 250 549 3120
okanaganspirits.com
Award-Winning Fruit Liqueurs Eau de Vie Absinthe Gin Whisky Open Year Round for Tours & Tastings 2920 - 28th Ave., Vernon 250 549 3120 267 Bernard Ave., Kelowna 778 484 5174
In the Okanagan we make more than just wine
BC VQA wine scene
Platinum Bench Estate Winery Physical location: 30640 Black Sage Road, Oliver Phone: 250-535-1165 Website: platinumbench.com Twitter: @platinumbench Facebook: platinum bench estate winery Wineshop open: Open for the season starting May 23, 10 am-5 pm Winemaker: Michael Bartier Varietals: Gamay, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Gris Total production: 1200 cases Distribution: Wine shop
t
he lure of a ‘zen’ lifestyle is what brought Fiona Duncan and Murray Jones to the Okanagan. They purchased their 15 acre property on the Black Sage Bench in January 2011. The Duncan Jones' haven’t looked back since. Their philosophy is simple, “to make the best wine we can with the grapes grown here.” Content to continue to grow the vines that were well matured on site, plans to bottle premium wines at affordable prices is the mandate. In keeping with the identity of the label namesake, Platinum Bench Estate Winery is positioned to deliver delicious premium wines.
Terravista Vineyards Physical location:1853 Sutherland Road, Penticton Phone: 778-476-6011 Website: terravistavineyards.com Wineshop open: Open July and August for cellar tastings Winemaker: Senka Tennant Varietals: Albarino, Verdejo Distribution: Wine shop and BC VQA
b
ob and Senka have been in the B.C. wine industry for 16 years. Their history in the industry began at Black Hills Estate Winery, where Bob was in charge of the vineyard and business operations and Senka as winemaker. When Black Hills sold, the couple could not imagine leaving the industry. And in 2008 Terravista Vineyards was started. Terravista is located on the Naramata Bench halfway between Penticton and Naramata. The site is ideal with its southwestern slope and very rocky soil, an excellent site for the type of white varietals that Senka had in mind. The original property name, Lone Hand Ranch, was retained as the vineyard operating name. The grape growing and wine making focus for Senka is to concentrate on just a couple of interesting and unique white varietals, Albarino and Verdejo, grown for nine centuries in northwest Spain and Portugal. Fandango is made from these varietals while Figaro, Terravista’s other wine, is made from a blend of Rousanne and Viognier. We've included a recipe for Senka's Terroir Chicken to serve with the Terravista Figaro. 100
magazine • SUMMER 2012
BC VQA wine scene
Topshelf Winery Physical location: 236 Linden Avenue, Kaleden Phone: 778-515-0099 Website: topshelf.ca Wineshop open: Open for the season May 1 Winemaker: Myra Kwiatkowski Varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris,Merlot Total production: 1,200 cases Distribution: Wine shop and BC VQA
s
ports, hockey and family play an important part in the creation of Kelowna’s
Topshelf Winery, owned by Myra and Len Kwiatkowski. From the prairies, they spent most of their leisure time raising four children and in hockey rinks. Those kids are now driving their 12 grandchildren to hockey rinks and other sports facilities. Len took early retirement and he and Myra spent nine years operating a lodge on the Sunshine Coast. The couple found a beautiful property in Kaleden in the Okanagan, which they had always loved. In the ideal new climate, their new passion became grape growing and wine making, so hence the creation of Topshelf. The grand opening of Topshelf occurred on June 30 with chocolate cherry and strawberry fondue, draws, live entertainment and much more, including the introduction of their over-the-top Merlot.
Jump! in your car and come for a visit... See the concrete “eggs” and enjoy a free tasting of limited production wines in our “O Tasting Lounge”. Or, sip our wines alongside your picnic and relax on the “Crush Pad Patio” overlooking the vineyard and lake. for directions and map visit
okanagancrushpad.com Open June 15 – October 15 Thursday to Sunday, 11:30am – 5:30pm
in Summerland
BC wine country recipes
BC wine country recipes
CHILLED
peach soup Submitted by Sperling Vineyards By Ann Sperling, Winemaker/Proprietor
8 large ripe peaches, pitted and coarsely chopped 3 cups white wine (Gewürztraminer, Riesling, etc.) 2-3 tbsp honey 2 tbsp lemon juice 1/4 tsp nutmeg or to taste 2 tbsp sour cream, creme fraîche or plain yoghurt 2 tbsp chopped pistachios
Place chopped peaches in a large non-reactive saucepan with wine, honey and lemon juice. Bring liquid barely to a boil, cover and allow to cool. Puree the mixture in batches in a food processor. Strain through a fine sieve. Taste for sweetening and balance. Cover and chill thoroughly. Blend nutmeg into the creme just before serving. Swirl a tablespoon of the creme mixture into each dish and top with a few pistachios.
PAIR WITH: Sperling Vineyards Old Vines Riesling or Late Harvest Pinot Gris
magazine • SUMMER 2012 103
BC wine country recipes
MUSHROOM PESTO
lasagna
Page 106
104
magazine • SUMMER 2012
BC wine country recipes
SUMMER FRESH
quinoa&barley SALAD Page 106
magazine • SUMMER 2012 105
BC wine country recipes
Mushroom Pesto Lasagna
Submitted by Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery
Lasagna Fresh lasagna noodles for a 10”x14” lasagna pan 1 lb fresh porcini or portobello mushrooms, coarsely chopped 2 oz dried porcini mushrooms 3/4 cup fresh basil pesto (recipe below) 3/4 cup grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese 1/3 cup pine nuts 2 cups béchamel sauce
Pesto Sauce 3 cups loosely packed fresh basil 3 tbsp pine nuts, lightly toasted 2 cloves garlic 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Salt to taste
Summer Fresh Quinoa & Barley Salad
Submitted by Hidden Chapel Winery 2/3 cup barley 1/3 cup red quinoa 1/3 cup white quinoa 2 tbsp olive oil 1 garlic clove, crushed 1/2 cup each finely diced celery, onion, red pepper 1/2 cup each grated carrot and zucchini 1/2 cup grated cucumber 1 tbsp each fresh chopped parsley and mint 1 tsp fresh thyme 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Ginger Vinaigrette: 1/4 cup olive oil 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tsp grated ginger root 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 crushed garlic clove 1/4 tsp salt and pepper sprinkle of cayenne pepper
To Make Pesto: (Makes about 1 1/4 cups)
Place basil, nuts, garlic and salt in food processor and process for 1 minute. Slowly start pouring in the olive oil until you reach desired consistency. Add the cheese and mix well.
To Make Lasagna: Butter 10” x 14” lasagna pan. Preheat oven to 375°F. Prepare lasagna noodles. Hydrate the dried porcini in 1 cup of warm water for 30 minutes, then drain and coarsely chop. Prepare the béchamel sauce. Sauté the mushrooms together in a little oil and butter until tender, about 10 minutes. Mix a little pesto with some hot pasta water and spread along the bottom of the buttered lasagna pan. Place one layer of noodles, then sprinkle over those noodles some of the mushroom mixture. Spread a little of the bechamel sauce on top of the mushrooms. Add another layer of noodles, then spread a thin layer of pesto sauce on top. Sprinkle with some of the grated cheese. Continue to layer in this manner until all ingredients are used up. On top, sprinkle the last of the béchamel sauce, cheese and pine nuts. Bake at 375°F for 30-40 minutes or until bubbly and browned on top. Let sit 10 minutes before cutting.
Pair with: Noble Ridge 2008 Pinot Noir 106
magazine • SUMMER 2012
In saucepan, bring 1 1/2 cups water to a boil. Add barley. Reduce heat; cover and simmer until tender and liquid is absorbed, about 40 minutes. Let cool. Meanwhile, in a separate saucepan, bring 1 cup water to a boil; add both quinoas. Reduce heat; cover and let simmer until tender and liquid is absorbed, about 5 minutes; let cool. Meanwhile in a skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add garlic and fry for a minute or two; fry celery, onion, red pepper, carrot and zucchini, stirring occasionally until tender crisp, about 5 minutes. Let cool.
Ginger Vinaigrette In a glass measuring cup, whisk together oil, vinegar, ginger, mustard, garlic, salt, pepper and cayenne; set aside. In a large bowl, combine barley, quinoa, vegetable mixture, cucumber, parsley, mint and thyme; pour dressing over top and toss to coat. Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.
Pair with: Chilled Hidden Chapel White Wedding 2011 (Sauvignon Blanc/Viognier/Reisling)
BC wine BC country VQA recipes
heirloom tomato SALAD
with Sweet Onion & Blue Cheese Page 110
magazine • SUMMER 2012 107
BC wine country recipes
arcticGRAVLAX char Page 110
108
magazine • SUMMER 2012
BC wine BC country VQA recipes
SEARED
duck breast
with Merlot & wild Blackberry Sauce Page 110
magazine • SUMMER 2012 109
BC wine country recipes
Heirloom Tomato Salad with Sweet Onion & Blue Cheese
Submitted by River’s Bend Winery Recipe, Food Styling and Photography by Gary Faessler Serves 6 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp white balsamic vinegar 1 cup cherry & pear tomatoes 10 medium heirloom tomatoes of assorted colours, sliced 1 sweet onion, sliced thin 1/2 cup chopped green onions 2 large garlic cloves, minced 1 cup coarsely crumbled blue cheese fresh basil cut thin ground black pepper & salt to taste
Submitted by River’s Bend Winery Recipe, Food Styling and Photography by Gary Faessler Serves 6 6 duck breasts 2 cups Merlot 1/2 cup chicken stock 2 shallots, finely diced 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 tbsp lemon zest 3 cups black berries 2 tbsp unsalted butter 2 tbsp flat leaf parsley chopped for garnish Freshly ground black pepper and salt to taste
Overlap medium to large tomato slices, alternating colours on a platter. Scatter small cherry and grape tomatoes, onion and garlic over sliced tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and cracked pepper, drizzle with oil and vinegar and top with crumbled blue cheese and basil.
Sauce
PAIR WITH: River’s Bend Pinot Gris
Arctic Char Gravlax Submitted by River’s Bend Winery Recipe, Food Styling and Photography by Gary Faessler 11/2 lb (1 side) Arctic char fillet, skin on, pin bones removed 5 tbsp salt 4 tbsp white sugar 1 tbsp Dijon mustard juice of 2 lemons 1/2 cup River’s Bend Winery Estate White Flaxen A large handful fresh dill, roughly chopped
Place the Arctic char fillet skin-side down to fit in a wide, shallow glass, enamel, or other non-reactive baking dish. Mix together the salt, sugar, Dijon mustard, white wine, lemon juice and dill in a bowl and spread the ingredients over the char’s pink flesh so that it has been totally covered. Cover the dish with cling film and transfer the fish to the fridge and leave for at least 24 hours. The longer the fish is left to marinate the more salt flavour it will absorb. After 1-2 days, unwrap the cling film from the dish and remove the char fillet. Carefully rinse off the marinate and gently pat dry the char with paper towel. Place the char fillet on a carving board flesh-side up and slice crosswise thin slivers of fish off the skin with an extremely sharp, thin knife. Serve the chilled fish with dark dense breads such as pumpernickel or buttered toast. Wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated, gravlax will keep for up to a week.
PAIR WITH: River’s Bend Winery Estate White Flaxen 110
Seared Duck Breast with Merlot & Wild Blackberry Sauce
magazine • SUMMER 2012
Combine wine, shallots and garlic in a saucepan. Simmer on medium-high heat until reduced to about one cup or until desired consistency is reached. Add chicken stock and reduce again to one cup. This can be made a day in advance. Add blackberries and lemon zest, allowing them to simmer for a minute, avoid over cooking as the blackberries will disintegrate. Take the pan off the heat and gently add the butter to the wine and blackberry reduction.
Pan-Searing the Duck Breast Score the duck fat in a crisscross pattern with a sharp knife without piercing through to the meat. Season the duck breasts with salt and pepper on both sides. In a large skillet, place the breasts fat side down on low heat. Once much of the fat has been rendered (pour some of it into a container and reserve; it’s great for sautéing red cabbage or potatoes) turn up the heat to medium high and allow the skin to brown and crisp. Flip the breasts and sear for a minute or so. Remove the duck breasts from the pan and let rest for a few minutes. Slice breasts crosswise, plate and drizzle sauce over top, garnish with chopped parsley.
PAIR WITH: River’s Bend 2009 Merlot Cabernet
BC wine country recipes
OVEN ROASTED AND
salmon scallops
with Grilled New Potatoes and Zucchini, Pickled Strawberry and Baby Basil Salad Page 114
magazine • SUMMER 2012 111
BC wine country recipes
TERROIR
chicken
Page 114
112
magazine • SUMMER 2012
BC wine country recipes
THAI CURRY
chicken
Page 114
magazine • SUMMER 2012 113
BC wine country recipes
Oven Roasted Salmon and Scallops
Terroir Chicken
with Grilled New Potatoes and Zucchini, Pickled Strawberry and Baby Basil Salad Submitted by Executive Sous Chef John Beaton, The Grapevine Restaurant
Salad 1/2 cup small basil leaves 1/4 cup quartered strawberries 1 tbsp sugar 1 tbsp strawberry puree 1 tsp grated ginger 1/4 cup rice vinegar Pinch black pepper 2 tbsp finely sliced red onion
Cook sugar, strawberry puree, ginger, vinegar and black pepper until reduced by 2/3. Pour over onions and cool. Toss with strawberries and chill. Just before serving, drain berries and toss basil.
Grilled Potato and Zucchini Heat barbecue to 400°F. Slice zucchini and blanched new potatoes; toss with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill on barbecue until done. Watch carefully so they do not burn.
Basil and Lemon Oil 1/2 cup fresh basil leaves 1/8 cup lemon olive oil
Blanch basil in boiling water for ten seconds, then shock in ice water. Squeeze water from basil and puree in blender.
Salmon and Scallops 4-6 oz boneless, skinless salmon fillets 12 scallops Salt, pepper, olive oil
Heat oven to 400°F. Heat large Teflon pan with olive oil. Season salmon and scallops. Sear top side of salmon. Flip salmon over and place in oven on bottom rack. Cook for 4 minutes and add scallops. Cook for further 3 minutes and remove from oven.
To Serve: Overlap potatoes and zucchini in centre of plate. Place salmon on top of vegetables and top with salad. Set scallops seared side up around plate and drizzle around with basil oil.
PAIR WITH: Gray Monk 2011 Estate Pinot Gris
Submitted by Terravista Vineyards By Senka Tennant A 4 lb chicken grown locally or on your own terroir Salt and pepper Lemon juice Oil Several thyme sprigs Meyer lemon slices
With poultry sheers, cut through the breast bone and splay the chicken out on the roasting pan. Season both sides with salt and pepper. Combine lemon juice, oil and a few sprigs of thyme and rub all over the skin of the chicken. Tuck a few sprigs under the breast skin. Roast the chicken in the oven at 350°F for approximately 1 hour. Brush with drippings every 15-20 minutes. Pierce with fork around leg area; juice should run clear when done, or use temperature probe at 180°F. Let rest for 5-10 minutes covered; garnish with Meyer lemon slices and thyme leaves before serving.
Pair with: Terravista Vineyards Figaro (a white blend of southern French varietals)
Thai Curry Chicken
Submitted by Sperling Vineyards By Ann Sperling, Winemaker/Proprietor 1 can (400 ml) Thai coconut milk, separated 1 tsp fish sauce 1 1/2 lb skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut into pieces 1-2 tsp green curry paste 3-4 dried lime leaves 1 cup boiling water 10-20 fresh basil leaves 2-3 green chillies 3 fresh sliced peaches or 1 can of peaches
To separate coconut cream, leave in refrigerator for 2-3 days. When ready to use, turn can upside down and open, then pour off the tin clear milk from the heavier cream. Heat coconut cream in a wok until boiling. Add fish sauce and chicken and cook until tender. Remove chicken from wok. Continue simmering cream until it reduces and becomes oily; add curry and cook 2-3 minutes. Return chicken to wok; add lime leaves, coconut milk and boiling water. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer 5-10 minutes. Add basil leaves and chillies. Raise heat to medium high and cook 1 more minute. Sauce should not be too thick; add water if necessary. Serve at once with steamed rice and garnish with clusters of basil leaves.
PAIR WITH: Sperling Vineyards Market White 2010. 114
magazine • SUMMER 2012
The 11th annual
For more information on our four annual okanagan Wine Festivals, contact www.thewinefestivals.com or email info@thewinefestivals.com or call 250-861-6654 Saturday July 7, 6:30pm-9:00pm
Valley FirSt PoPS the Cork
Summer Okanagan Wine Festival
arts Common by the rotary Centre for the arts, kelowna What are the three simple steps to fun on a summer’s evening? Wine, cheese and music … then repeat wine, cheese, music. Its catching. This event celebrates summer in Kelowna with over 30 Okanagan wineries breaking out the wines for a hot summer night of wine tasting, live music and light tapas. Hosted in the beautiful Arts Common beside the Rotary Centre for the Arts in Kelowna, and supported by Tourism Kelowna, this promises to be an eye stopping, cork popping party. This is a get home safe event, sponsored by BC Liquor Stores and Valley First Insurance.
July 7 - 15, 2012
tickets at selectyourtickets.com or 250.717.5304. Price: $59.00 (all incl)
Sunday, July 8, 6:30pm-9:00pm Valley FirSt GranFondo Wine taStinG Gyro Park, Penticton Whether you have just ridden the GranFondo Axel Merkx Okanagan or you live for the beach, it is never a bad time to celebrate summer in the Okanagan. And when Okanagan wines are involved, you don’t want to miss the party. Over 300 wines will be available for your sampling along with light tapas, cheeses and breads to cleanse your palate. And of course, no party is complete without great dance music . Supported by Tourism Penticton and the GranFondo Axel Merkx Okanagan, this fun informal and casual wine tasting is not to be missed. Look for your favourite cycling celebrity or look for your favourite wine celebrity or just look for your favourite person! This is a get home safe event, sponsored by BC Liquor Stores and Valley First Insurance.
Tickets at www.valleyfirsttix.com Price: $59.00 (all incl)
thursday, July 12, 7:00pm - 9:00pm Winetender MixoloGy FaCe-oFF laurel heritage Packinghouse, kelowna 2011 saw some amazing talent come forward with some very creative ways in using wine to produce fantastic cocktails. Who will compete and take on our 2011 champion Gerry Jobe? He’s ready to take on anyone up for the challenge. This event will have bartenders creating a signature bar drink for our guests using a British Columbia wine as an ingredient. This is not only fun but can also be a career changer! Join us to watch, sample and be a judge of these amazing creations from these bartenders as they compete for the title of Winetender Mixology Champion.This is a get home safe event, sponsored by BC Liquor Stores and Valley First Insurance.
tickets at selectyourtickets.com or 250.717.5304. Price: $50.00 (all incl)
Friday, July 13, 7:00pm - 9:00pm
all you need iS CheeSe & Wine – the BeaCh Party
Watermark Beach resort, osoyoos, BC www.watermarkbeachresort.com Think of Osoyoos in the summer – the warmth of a summer evening; refreshing Okanagan wines and the very best in Canadian Cheeses make for a perfect summer party. And then think of the party happening on a beach alongside Canada’s warmest lake! Hosted by the Dairy Farmers of Canada and taking place at the fabulous new Watermark Beach Resort in Osoyoos, guests will be treated to a unique evening on the beach. Dress casually, enjoy the spectacular views with friends and be entertained by great wines, cheeses and music. Is there really any other way to celebrate summer in Osoyoos? This is a get home safe event, sponsored by BC Liquor Stores and Valley First Insurance. tickets at selectyourtickets.com or 250.717.5304. Price: $59.00 (all incl)
download our free app on itunes