MAN
KOLOR The fashion magazine for black and brown men.
kolormagazine.com
MAN
KOLOR The fashion magazine for black and brown men.
kolormagazine.com
KOLOR
CONTENTS
FEATURES Gabe Stone Shayer 13.
The award winning ballet dancer talks his busy quarantine year. PHOTOGRAPHS by Ammar Thomas STYLING by Nigel Isaiah 42.
Leon
Just spring menswear and vibes with the legendary actor. PHOTOGRAPHS by Ammar Thomas STYLING by Nigel Isaiah
FASHION UPFRONT
Allen Onyia + Ouigi Theodore 8.
Talk their Icons of Style collaboration with Macy's. INTERVIEW by Nigel Isaiah 18.
On The Market
Every piece on our trend radar for Spring 2021 PHOTOGRAPHS by Ammar Thomas STYLING by Nigel Isaiah
STYLE, B: EDITORIALS 24.
SPARRING SESSION
Whipping models into shape with Perennial Boxing + Fitness owner Ralph Gilmore PHOTOGRAPHS by Ammar Thomas STYLING by Nigel Isaiah
LINEAR PAIRS
32. Lines are the narrative for Spring. PHOTOGRAPHS by Alessandro Casagli STYLING by David McLeod III
PASTEL PAPI
36. Styling in the hue of the season on fashion influencer Denzel Bryan. PHOTOGRAPHS by Cody Dash STYLING by David McLeod III
EDITOR'S LETTER
I love reality competition television series! The Voice on NBC, Top Chef on Bravo, The Challenge on MTV, watching a group of people compete for top prize fuels the healthy competition bone within me. Because from Bob The Drag Queen, winner of RuPaul's
Drag Race Season 8, to Christian Siriano, winner of Project Runway Season 4 every winner and the fellow contestants they beat out for bragging rights were expected to do one thing: rise to the challenge set before. Garment rips before a runway, RISE. Got lost navigating as you race around the world, RISE. Opened a basket to four mystery ingredients that you've never cooked with before with 30 minutes on the clock, RISE. It's is what I find myself doing as this little magazine that could continue to improve. We use to struggle for samples and models and finding adequate spaces for our photoshoots, finding contact information for potentially shooting talent. But we made it through our gauntlet challenges and ROSE. Now with Issue 9 of Kolor Magazine featuring legendary actor Leon and award-winning ballet soloist Gabe Stone Shayer I feel like we've won. To our readers, thank you for continuing to rock with us as we kick off our 4th year of Kolor. I'm so thankful for your love and support. The prizes you've been manifesting are a challenge away. So start your engines and may the ones who RISE, win! With love and respect, Nigel Isaiah
KOLOR The fashion magazine for black and brown men!
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Nigel Isaiah
CREATIVE & PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR: Ammar Thomas CONTRIBUTORS: Margina Dennis, Don Love, David McLeod III, Crystal R. Smith
PHOTOGRAPHERS: Alessandro Casagli, Cody Dash, Marq Newman
ON THE COVER
PRESS PLAY: Filmed by Marq Newman, check out this BTS footage of Kolor Magazine on set with Leon! CLICK HERE TO WATCH.
On the cover: LEON photographed exclusively for Kolor Magazine by Ammar Thomas; styling by Nigel Isaiah; grooming by Crystal R. Smith; production assistant & film by Marq Newman; full look BRUNELLO CUCINELLI. | GABE STONE SHAYER photographed exclusively for Kolor Magazine by Ammar Thomas; styling by Nigel Isaiah; full look APOTTS.
BTS Talent + Crew Pic
kolormagazine.com
FASHION UPFRONT INTERVIEW: Allen Onyia + Ouigi Theodore Hitting stores at the top of Spring is Macy’s Icons of Style collections. In response to the lack of representation on the floors of department stores, the iconic 34th street retailer collaborated with creatives Zerina Akers, Misa Hylton, Aminah Abdul Jillil, Allen Onyia, and Ouigi Theodore to design capsule collections with Macy's in-house brands. We chopped it up with Allen Onyia, founder of Upscale Hype, and Ouigi Theodore, founder of The Brooklyn Circus who curated garments for INC International Concepts and Sun + Stone respectively on their style inspirations, their time working with Macy’s, and their advice for the next generation of black fashion creatives.
Image Courtesy: Macy's
Were there any black men that influenced your style or to break into the fashion industry? Allen: I tell people this all the time and this comes off a little strange because it’s not somebody a lot of people look at as a fashion person per-say but for me, it was Michael Jordan. I grew up playing ball and it was everything to me. Now, I cared about what I looked like as a kid, I always had my style and perspective but I started caring about it more playing ball because I love the way Michael Jordan carried himself on and off the court. I watched a lot of his commercials and he’d be wearing suits, some of them were campaigns in his regular uniform. Michael Jordan for me made me want to, as a black man look the part. Ouigi: I entered the business through the retail door and never had any plans to own a store. I had a motorcycle apparel line before and when you think about Fubu, Sean John, and Karl Kani I had quite a few examples in the American urban landscapes. But like you said growing up in New York and the urban community, getting dressed was a form of armor and expression. If you didn’t have the right things on or you didn’t take the time to look a certain way you were the butt of the jokes or people wouldn’t necessarily gravitate towards you. And when you think about what Macy’s did in the urban space in the ’90s and 2000s with an entire floor of urban designers in the same stores they sold Polo in, another important brand for us as well.
What it like for Macy’s to work with you on these Icons of Style Collections? A: One, I’d like to extend my gratitude to Macy’s because I was honored they selected me to be one of the five to represent their initiative. Macy's working with me, I felt it was seamless. They connected me to their INC International Concepts brand which I feel it’s a line that speaks to who I am as a man, designer, and creative. Working with the team, I felt we created a collection that best reflected what the INC International Concepts brand represents but also more importantly reflected what my vision and my voice were. For me, Macy’s growing up was everything. I’m Nigerian and with my parents, everything was Macy’s. If we had to get anything from pots and pans to bedding it was always Macy’s no other department store came to mind. Macy’s was our luxury; the fashionable place to go to pick up everything and the one-stop-shop. The connection was there working with Macy’s because of the history I have with the brand. I’m honored and I hope I represented the brand on a very high level —I feel like I represented the brand on a very high level! O: My experience with Macy’s was great. I think they did a great job at selecting the designers that fit the brands we ultimately ended up with. Now we’re in the launch phase. It’s time to see what the consumers gravitate to and how they react to the collections. The crew was amazing to work with. It was a full-circle moment to come work with Macy’s and it was great to know that they allowed us to do what we wanted to do. They didn’t come in and water down what the vision was, they magnified it. Who is the man that is connecting with your Icons of Style collection? A: I always look at designing [clothes] from a perspective of what would I like. I feel like people who would be rocking my clothing are like me who share the same interest and views. I know some people design thinking about what other people would like, I design thinking about what I like. Something that I think is great about this Macy’s collection is people have described my style as attainable high fashion and I feel like this collection is a little bit of luxury, a little bit of high-end, and it’s a little bit of attainability with the price point. For people who see the world like me, this is a collection they can see, touch, and wear this collection. O: We are a men’s per-say company per-say but we don’t make clothes for men per-say. And I say per-say after every statement simply because I grew up with 4 women. A lot of my inspiration comes from women, most of the Brooklyn Circus collections have been dedicated to women. Of course, because I’m a black man living in America part of this is dedicated to me and my journey and my struggle. But because a lot of inspiration comes from women the collection is not just for men. They are for people and humans that can relate to the story. This collection is for like-minded individuals rather you enjoy history or vintage or you love art. All of that is intertwined in this Sun+ Stone collection and it's always intertwined into the work that I do.
Do you have any advice for young black creatives looking to break into the fashion industry? A: Yes, I do! This is something I wear on my shoulders, It’s my motto, It’s a message I have to remind myself because people look at me sometimes and think I have it all figured out. I have to remind myself in the words of Nipsy, “It’s a marathon.” The advice I would give to young black creatives is to find something you love to do, be consistent at it. Through consistency, you’ll have learnings and those will allow you to perfect your craft. Through consistency, your opportunity will come. Don’t ever think your opportunity won’t come, it will in some form or fashion, and you’ll want to be ready. The consistency will allow you to be ready and you can bust that door open. Upscale Hype didn’t happen overnight. It took us a while, we were just consistent every day. We knew what our goal was, we knew what our message was, we knew what the vision was and we were just consistent with it, and once it hit it hit. Stay consistent, take your learning, perfect them and just be ready for when that door opens a little bit to bust it open. O: Do a lot of research. Jump in get your feet on the ground, intern, find a mentor, find several mentors, and have patience. Tap into what we’re doing which is the 100-year plan. Don’t think it’s going to happen overnight. Any seasoned professional in this business Black, White, Hispanic, Asian, or other took time. A lot of patience, build your voice and listen more than you do speak.
We talk pandemic and get personal with
Gabe Stone Shayer
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA XXX Shirt & Pant
Do you feel you’ve gained anything as an artist coming out of the Pandemic? Yes, I feel like I've gained space, perspective, and artistic freedom. It's easy for everyone with whatever work you're doing to get caught up in the repetitions of creating. At a big ballet company, we're constantly slated to be doing the next thing. Having this time has given me space to reevaluate what I want to do as an artist, with my voice without the weight of a company on my shoulders. As you get ready to return to the theatre are there any changes you’d like to see in Ballet? For sure, more diversity! That’s been a problem forever and it’s being highlighted now. I think the ballet world is one of the last frontiers of really embracing changes in that way. I think there’s a lot of gatekeeping in ballet because it’s such an old art form. It’s thought that if we don’t change anything that means we’re keeping the integrity which I think is a common misconception. The integrity of ballet is in the vocabulary of movement, not the subject matter or the person that’s doing it. I hope that we can open the eyes of the people who run the shows and the people who watch the shows to want to hear from new voices and diverse artists. Did growing up in an art-oriented home help with believing you could pursue and achieve your dreams? Completely! I feel like because I was always exposed to every sort of performing art, gallery openings, fashion shows, my mom took me to everything so I never felt like anything was out of the question. To that, I felt like everything was possible. If I wanted to be an astronaut or if I wanted to be a ditch digger I could do it and my mom would support me. Do you have any stand-out memories from your early years dancing or competing? I remember one of the first times I felt that the art form, my artistic expression, and my internal emotions manifested into a performance on stage. I was about 9 (I think) and I did a production based on a book written about the genocide that had happened in Sudan/Darfur. I was playing a young boy from the village and I remember I had a duet with an older guy who was supposed to be my father figure. After learning about the subject matter and attaching myself to the story we were narrating with our movement, it was the first time I felt real emotion. I didn’t feel like I was acting. I didn’t feel like I was putting something on for the audience. I felt like was living in the most real sense of the word. It was one of the most beautiful moments for me as an artist because I was like, ‘oh this is the peak, this what I want to replicate." Feeling my emotions to the fullest extent and hopefully in a beautiful way.
APOTTS Jumpsuit
How would you describe your masculinity? It’s funny because I play with this word a lot. I feel like masculinity and femininity are superfluous words because I think the way people usually use masculinity is to refer to strength and we all show strength in different ways. My masculinity or my strength is within my intellect, refraining from acting out and being vulnerable. Those are also things that are associated with femininity as well so hopefully, I’m perfectly yinyang with that. Have you always been comfortable with your masculinity as a dancer? There was a period when I was younger still in regular academic school when I was being teased and made fun of a lot. There was another pivotal moment when I was young where I was trying hard to not seem effeminate at all. Then I got to the point where I was like f-it. I’m the happiest when I’m in the studio when I’m dancing when I’m able to express myself and wave a scarf and it doesn’t mean it's feminine, masculine, gay, or straight. I love living through passion and if passion is feminine and gay then good luck on your future endeavors because I’m going to have fun.
DOUBLE RAINBOUU Robe, Shirt & Pants, LINDBERG Glasses, VANS Sneakers
ON THE MARKET
EVERYTHING WE'RE COPPING FOR SPRING
PHOTOGRAPHS by Ammar Thomas STYLING by Nigel Isaiah STARRING Joseph LOCATION The 9 Studio
1.
TECH HIGH
2.
3.
4.
1.OFF-WHITE Tech Button-Up Shirt $595, nordstrom.com; 2.THE NORTH FACE Tech Trouser $321, farfatch.com; 3.Y-3 Woven Tech Pouch $63, luisaviaroma.com; 4.POWERBEATS Pro Earphones $169, apple.com; 5.ADIDAS Tech Leather Sneakers $127, farfetch.com
5.
DKNY Jacket, PERRY ELLIS Pants
DESIGUAL Shirt, NANAMICA Cargo Pants, FLORSHEIM Sandals, TIBI Socks, MODEL'S Own Watch
COASTAL FITS
1.
2.
3.
1.CASABLANCA Tropical Print Shirt $730, farfetch.com; 2.NANAMICA Cargo Pants, mrporter.com; 3.CASIO Nylon Strap Watch $30, amazon.com; 4.BURBERRY Socks $85, ssense.com; 5.SUICOKE Sandals $260, farfetch.com
4.
5.
STYLE, B: Editorials
SPARRING SESSIONS PHOTOGRAPHS by Ammar Thomas STYLING by Nigel Isaiah STARRING Perennial Boxing + Fitness owner Ralph Gilmore, Ford Models model Ibnou Tall and Click Model Management model Jordyn O. LOCATION The 9 Studio
On Ralph: RODEX Undershirt, ROWING BLAZERS Pants, RALPH’S OWN Shoes and Boxing Accessories. On Jordyn O: RODEX Undershirt, PSYCHO BUNNY Shorts
On Ralph: RODEX Undershirt, ROWING BLAZERS Pants, RALPH’S OWN Shoes and Boxing Accessories. On Ibnou O.: RODEX Undershirt, DAILY PAPER Sweatpants, APL Sneakers
Opposite Page: On Ralph (Top Left): RODEX Undershirt, PSYCHO BUNNY Shorts (Top Right): BOXRAW Hooded Sweatshirt, PSYCHO BUNNY Shorts, RALPH’S OWN Shoes (Bottom Left): RODEX Undershirt, ROWING BLAZERS Pants. On Jordyn O. (Bottom Left): NANAMICA Hooded Sweatshirt, ALIFE Shorts, CONVERSE sneakers. On Ibnou (Bottom Right): RODEX Undershirt, 40S AND SHORTIES Sweatpants. This Page: RODEX Undershirt, ALIFE Shorts.
On Ralph: ROWING BLAZERS Jacket, RALPH’S OWN Boxing Accessories. On Jordyn O: RODEX Undershirt, ALIFE Shorts, MODEL'S OWN Jewelry.
LINEAR PAIRS
Starring Muse Management model Duot Ajang PHOTOGRAPHS by Alessandro Casagli STYLING by David McLeod III GROOMING by Margina Dennis
Opposite Page: CALVIN KLEIN Button-Down Shirt, COS Shirt, ADIDAS ORIGINALS Pants, NEW ERA Hat, ADIDAS ORIGINALS Sneakers. This Page: DKNY Sweater, BAILEYS Hat, STYLIST OWN Bandana
Opposite Page: ASOS Shirt, SCOTCH & SODA Pants, TOPMAN Suspenders, STYLIST OWN Jewelry. This Page: KODAK Windbreaker, DKNY Pants, MANGO Hat, ADIDAS ORIGINALS Sneakers.
THE FACE Starring Denzel Bryan PHOTOGRAPHS by Cody Dash STYLING by David McLeod III LOCATION The 9 Studio
TOPMAN Shirt, LEVI Shorts, MITCHELL + NESS Hat, SILVER FOX Fanny Pack, PLAY CLOTHS Bracelet, ADIDAS Sneakers
Opposite Page: NANAMICA Shirt, HANES Undershirt, UNIQLO Shorts, TOPMAN Jewelry, FIVE FOUR Belt, NIKE Sneakers. This Page: BONOBOS Shirt, TOPMAN Jeans and Belt, ALDO Shoes, STYLIST OWN Accessories
Opposite Page: ALFANI Shirt, MALE POWER Tank, TOPMAN Pants, NEW ERA Hat, ADIDAS Scarf, STYLIST OWN Jewelry. This Page: UNIQLO Shirts, J.CREW Pants, JUST HYPE Hat, STYLIST OWN Jewelry
LEON
PHOTOGRAPHS by Ammar Thomas PRODUCTION’S ASSISTANT & FILM by Marq Newman STYLING by Nigel Isaiah GROOMING by Crystal R. Smith LOCATION The 9 Studio
This Page:
OVERLAND Jacket, PERRY ELLIS Polo, MAVI Jeans. Opposite Page: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Blazer, Vest, Polo, and Pants, AQUATALIA Shoes
Both Pages: DKNY Jacket and Pants, TIBI T-Shirt. Grooming Notes: NARS concealer, LOOPS eye mask, SKINGLASS Moisturizer, MARIO BADESCU Lip Balm, KIEHL'S Men’s Toner.
WHERE TO BUY
LEON: p.44 & 48 OVERLAND Jonathan Reversible Italian Lambskin Suede Leather Jacket $595, overland.com. PERRY ELLIS Tipped Collar Polo $59.50, perryellis.com. MAVI Johnny Oyster Mushroom TWILLRegular Rise Slim Leg Chino $98, mavi.com. AQUATALIA Daniel Suede Boot $595, aquatalia.com. p.45 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Twisted Linen One-And-AHalf Breasted Deconstructed Blazer With Patch Pockets and Metal Buttons $3,695, shop.brunellocucinelli.com. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Cotton Piqué Slim Fit Polo with Shirt-Style Collar $675, shop.brunellocucinelli.com. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Cotton Sweater Vest With Striped Neckline $795, shop.brunellocucinelli.com. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Délavé Linen Twill Tailor Fit Trousers With Double Pleats $1,095, shop.brunellocucinelli.com. p.46 & 47 DKNY Jackets and Pant, for similar styles, visit donnakaran.com. TIBI Graphic T-Shirt, for similar styles, visit ssense.com. GABE STONE SHAYER: p.13 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA XXX Couture Silk And Mohair Trousers !$1490.00, zegna.com. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA XXX Couture Silk Shirt $995.00, zegna.com. p.15 APOTTS Jumpsuit, for similar styles visit apottscollection.com. p.16-17 DOUBLE RAINBOUU EZ Robe $200, doublerainbouu.com. DOUBLE RAINBOUU Hawaiian Shirt $135, doublerainbouu.com. DOUBLE RAINBOUU EZ Pants $160, doublerainbouu.com. LINBERG Arnold Glasses, for similar styles visit lindberg.com. VANS x se bikes style 36 $75, vans.com.
kolormagazine.com