Magasin Höga Kusten English Edition 2015

Sea & Coastal Areas Adventure Life in the Archipelago Nature Adventure and Experiences Food & Culture Quality of Life

Summer 2015

One of Sweden's largest summer magazines, about one of the world's most unique coastal areas

Waves roll in on a midsummer night at Norrfällsviken

River guide

Ångermanland's THE BEST STOPS

STEEP COASTLINE. WHAT ACTUALLY HAPPENED?

Botanical borderland TIMID, BEAUTIFUL AND TOTALLY UNIQUE PLANTS THAT HAVE CHOSEN TO STAY AT HÖGA KUSTEN

The flavours OF THE FOREST AND SEA TAREQ TAYLOR CREATES

The summer's sweatiest

TOUGHEST COMPETITIONS GIVE YOU MAXIMUM PULSE

2014

IT ALL STARTED HERE Welcome to our home – the Swedish High Coast.

This is where it all began.

It was in a basement in Örnsköldsvik, that Åke Nordin founded Fjällräven. He had a sewing machine, a few tools and a strong belief that outdoor clothing and equipment could be much, much better.

Today, over 50 years later, we are still run-

ning Fjällräven with the same passion he had to make spending time outdoors simpler and more enjoyable. And just like Åke went to the mountains to test his ideas, we get our inspiration for product development when we are out in the wilderness.It is out there, rather than behind a desk, that we discover things that are missing from our product range, or constructions that

can be made even better. Our products are recognizable by their functionality, durability and timelessness. We make equipment that is known to last for years and years of adventures and that is suitable for many situations.

A good example of this is our Greenland Jacket from 1968 that was made from a piece of tent fabric that proved to be too heavy for the lightweight

If you take a little detour away from the High Coast Trail at Skoved and walk up towards Fäberget, you will be rewarded with a sweeping view of the Swedish High Coast.

At the top you will find a wind shelter with a fireplace that you can take a break in if you would like to stay a little longer.

tents of the time. This durable fabric, which was later named g-1000, was perfect for outdoor clothing, especially once it was waxed with a mixture of beeswax and paraffin (which, by the way, was an idea that Åke got from his childhood years ski jumping with the outdoor club Friska Viljor at Paradiskullen in his hometown of Övik, where he and his friends waxed the seats of their

trousers with ski wax so they wouldn’t get wet).

Our future places high demands on longevity from a sustainable perspective too. This is where we place a lot of focus in our development work today, when we make improvements and look for new materials and production methods.

Because we want the kind of outdoor experiences that inspired Åke to start Fjällräven in

1960, and that inspire us today to continue on in his spirit, to be accessible for as many people as possible in the future.

The New Passat.

Car of the Year 2015.

58 motoring journalists, 22 countries, one winner. Among the best European cars in its class, the new Passat was awarded Car of the Year 2015. A simple explanation is that the whole philosophy behind the new Passat is based on you, the person sitting behind the wheel. Our two litre 190 hp TDI motor combined with 4MOTION all-wheel drive and DSG automatic transmission gives you guaranteed enjoyment on the road. You’re welcome to come in and test drive the Car of the Year 2015.

Passat Sport Estate TDI 190 DSG 4MOTION GT from SEK 333 700. Taxable benefit from SEK 1 929.

Fuel consumption driving 5.1 l/100 km. CO2 emissions for mixed driving 134 g/km. EcoClass Euro 6. *Indicative taxable benefit, net per month excluding fuel at 50%

marginal rates. For an exact taxable benefit, see the Swedish Tax Agency website at www.skv.se. The car shown is fully equipped.

Editorial

PEDER SUNDSTRÖM

ANDERS LÖNN

HÅKAN NORDSTRÖM

STEVEN EKHOLM

Magasin Höga Kusten Publishing AB Box 77, 891 33 Örnsköldsvik mail@magasinhogakusten.com | www.magasinhogakusten.com 0660 - 701 07

REDAKTION

|

ANNONSER

0660 - 700 17

Coverphoto Hans Strand Editorial Hans Strand, Gösta Fries, Ove Källström, Håkan Wike, David Rocksén, Patrik Mellander, Olof Wigren, Anders Hägglund, Åsa Gustafsson, Håkan Stenlund, Lasse Näsström, Anders Dahlin, Carl Thorberg, Anna Karlström, Carola Harnesk, NollNio® Formgivning & Kommunikation

Magasin Höga Kusten is produced by Magasin Höga Kusten Publishing AB own by

Sundstroem ImageWorks, Didot Reklambyrå, Nordströmbild, Grafisk Kompetens i Norr and TM Progress Holding.

Magasin Höga Kusten is printed on UPM Fine 115gr. and 300gr. by Forssa Print. Magasin Höga Kusten is produced with typefonts by Hoefler&Co.

H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E

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www.areskoog.se

The Sensation of Wood

The smell of freshly sawn wood, the contrast between different structures and appearance.

A rustic pine floors lasting for generations, or the feeling of walking with bare feet over a solar hot wooden deck. – It evokes memories and creates pleasure.

No other material can compete with it.

Our products are available in home improvement stores

scatimber.com

Swedish cultural treasure!

Au

t2 s u g

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INTRO

Last year, this hike attracted several hundred participants from many different countries. Höga Kusten Hike is one of northern Europe's most beautiful hiking adventures. It's a 3-day, 40-kilometre long hike over Höga Kusten's majestic coastal mountains, through deep forests and along the shimmering coast. In the evenings, you can take part in outdoor pursuit "classes" or listen to a talk, and then relax with After-Trail at the FriluftsByn camp. Suitable for both experienced hikers and curious beginners. hogakustenhike.se

Höga Kusten hike // ADVENTURE

PERFEKT BEACH SOUND

Our own jacket

Don't miss out on the right atmosphere by the open fire just because your guitar wouldn't fit into your rucksack. A Jabra Solemate is a sturdy piece of equipment with fantastic sound quality for many hours in a tent and when hiking or canoeing.

Although the silence of the seashore may be eagerly awaited by some, the right song can really boost the evening. jabra.se

During the course of just a few years, Höga Kusten has become a meeting place for outdoor enthusiasts from all over the world. Hikers, canoeists and climbers gather here to head off on adventures in this countryside that can be found nowhere else in the world. This is something that outdoor company Fjällräven has acknowledged by launching a stylish collection with a classical Fjällräven touch under the name High Coast, inspired by this region's great variety of outdoor activities.

"The collection is created for exactly the type of multi-active summer life that you find here on Höga Kusten," says Henrik Andersson, development manager at Fjällräven. fjallraven.se

// SOUND

// FASHION

H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E

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Experience the High Coast with MF Ulvön and MF Minerva

MF MINERVA

ARCHIPELAGO BY BOAT

KÖPMANHOLMEN – TRYSUNDA, STRÄNGÖARNA AND ULVÖN PHONE TO MF ULVÖN +46 (0)70-651 92 65 • TICKET OFFICE +46 (0)660-22 38 55 • WWW.ORNSKOLDSVIKSHAMN.SE

TIME TABLE FOR THE SUMMER June 18 – August 16, 2015 MF MINERVA Departures from Ulvöhamn Ulvöhamn Fjären Strängön Trysunda Köpmanholmen

MF ULVÖN

MF MINERVA

MF ULVÖN

06.20 06.45 07.30 08.20

10.00 10.15 10.40 11.15

11.30 11.55 12.30 13.00

MF MINERVA

MF ULVÖN

15.30 15.50 16.10 16.20

SOMM 18 JUN MF ULVÖN

15.30 15.55 16.40 17.30

20.15 20.40 21.15 21.45

Departures from Köpmanholmen Köpmanholmen

09.00

09.00

12.00

13.30

17.45

22.00

Strängön Trysunda Fjären Ulvöhamn

09.10 09.25 09.50

09.35 10.20 11.00

12.25 12.50 13.15

13.50 14.25 15.00

18.20 19.05 19.45

22.20 22.55 23.30

mf_ulvon_uppslag_2011.indd 2-3

Complete time table and eventual changes at www.ornskoldsvikshamn.se

BY CAR At the parking lot at Köpmanholmen a parking fee is charged. You can pay from an hour to an entire season.

BY BUS If you want to take the bus to Köpmanholmen, search for the bus trip on www.dintur.se or call DinTur Customer Service +46 (0)771-100 110.

The bus to Köpmanholmen goes from Örnsköldsvik. If traveling from elsewhere, then you can change bus there.

Ulvöham

Ulvöham Fjären Fjären Strängö Strängö Trysund Köpman Köpman

Köpman Köpman Strängö Strängö Fjären Trysund Ulvöham Fjären

Ulvöham

INTRO

The major archipelago drive"World class archipelago" is the biggest investment ever to improve service for visitors to the archipelago. Trysunda, Ulvön and Örnsköldsvik's inner harbour have all been refurbished. A number of natural harbours have also had a total make-over. The most recent one is Fjälludden which, along with several other places out in the archipelago, has been upgraded with a new sauna, privy, barbecue facilities, jetties etc. to make mooring safe and easy. So please enjoy our new, improved archipelago! hogakusten.com

World class archipelago // INVESTMENT

HÖGA KUSTEN FOR EXPORT // FOOD & DRINK Höga Kusten - a special beer with a

genuine Norrland soul. It's a perfect mix of the two exquisite types of beer: ale and lager. Now Höga Kusten, already one of Sweden's best-selling speciality beers, is being launched in the beer-loving country of Great Britain. As of May this year, this beer can be enjoyed in British pubs. Höga Kusten has a malty flavour that makes it a delicious beer with an attractive colour. The bridge symbolises the unification of the two types of beer. zeunerts.se

Villa

fraxinus // CULTURE

The exhibition "in DIALOGUE with a GARDEN" at Villa Fraxinus this summer will mainly be displayed in the large garden, but also in part of the house and the restaurant. Meet eight artists from all over Sweden and Holland who will exhibit sculptures, paintings, installations and objects.

The vernissage will be on Saturday 27 June. The exhibition will go on until 16 August. villafraxinus.se

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THIS SUMMER'S NEW ICE CREAMS // PURE ENJOYMENT

This summer, ice creams are going to be more colourful. After several years of best-seller Magnum's dark chocolate coating, this ice cream will at last be joined by raspberryfilled Magnum Pink.

Other cool innovations at the ice cream counter this season are Daim Chocolate, Cornetto Peanut Butter Love, Magnum Yoghurt Fresh, Tofuline Toffee and the ice cream that's tipped to be the favourite: Marabou Schweizernötpinne. gb.se

To Ulvön

Swiftly, safely, effective and smart!

At Ulvön

Experiences, excitement and flavours!

Boating Experience • Sun • UlvöByn • Lagerwalls Bibliotek • Tennis • Clownen Rubens Ètage Café Måsen • Relaxation • Deleight • Time • Quaint Café • ”Surbistron” • Surströmming • Ulvödagarna • Jetty • Corporate Package • Companie guests • Miniconferences • Swim • Ulvöprinsen • Culture • Måsenmazarinen • Ulvö Hotel • Trifling • Skagenbakelse • Lax i papper • A glass of Champagne (or 2) • Show • Lotsberget • Ulvö Lilla Salteri • Seine fishing • Flirt • Boat tours • Trails • Ulvö Gamla Kapell • Music • Sap • The King of Surströmming Ruben Madsen • Service • Party • The Pirat Svarta Malin • Gourmet cuisine • Fermented herring premiere • Beer • Fishing • Waffles • Rest • Ice cream Swimmingpool • Home-baked • Ulvö Stugby • Play • Shopping • Sports • Salmon Seal safari • Scenery • Yachtcharters • Ulvö Museum • Playground • Herring • Flowers

Welcome!

Ulvön AB | Center | Ulvö harbour

For more information, visit www.d4dr.se please plan your visit: or walk

ulvon@d4dr.se | +46 (0)70-592 44 92 | Ruben

248 meters to: ”Down ulvöhamn” and Ulvöbyn | +46 (0)70-309 28 84 | Linn

The story about how Höga Kusten has become Sweden's fastest growing destination brand name.

Who gave it its name and what actually happened to

ÅNGERMANLAND'S STEEP COASTLINE PHOTO

Håkan Wike, Peder Sundström

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TEXT

Steven Ekholm

F

or 10,000 years, the suppressed land mass slowly rose out of the sea.

Sunken rocks became skerries which became islands which became hills which became mountains. At first, this happened quickly but over the millenniums at an increasingly slower pace. Today, it's only a matter of 0.8 cm per year. But nevertheless, it's still the fastest in the class. For a long time, this area with its increasingly steep coastline had no name. It was not until the end of the 1800s that geologists from other places began to show interest in the unique conditions brought about by the land elevation. But this steep stretch of coast between the mouth of the Ångermanälven river in the south and the Skeppsmalen lighthouse in the north just continued to be called Ångermanland's steep coastline for most of the 20th century. Because that was precisely what it was. Steep. And in the county of Ångermanland. But matters were soon to change radically. This is the story about how the isolated and neglected steep coastline of Ångermanland changed name and became the World Heritage Site and major tourist attraction Höga Kusten.

THE UNIQUE COASTLINE OF ÅNGERMANLAND WAS POINTED OUT AS BEING ONE OF THREE COASTAL AREAS IN SWEDEN THAT WERE ASSESSED AS HAVING ESPECIALLY GOOD QUALITIES FOR ACTIVE OUTDOOR LIFE As always. And the people who were dreaming were the architects of the Social Democrat party's welfare state. The general prosperity of the 1960s generated visions that all Swedes were to be entitled to meaningful leisure activities. Preferably outdoors. And best of all out in the countryside. This initiated a national inventory of natural resources and existing land and water use. The coast of Ångermanland was singled out as being one of three coastal areas in Sweden that were assessed as having particularly good qualities for active outdoor life. This nationwide process also brought about feverish activity in the county. The timing was just perfect!

At precisely that time, the municipalities of Örnsköldsvik and Kramfors were in the middle of the major merging process where 15 small municipalities were going to become just two. Suddenly it was much easier to organise a regional investigation into how we should develop our steep coastline. Two parties instead of fifteen.

I T S TA R T E D O U T A S A D R E A M .

from the County Administrative Board, in 1972, the municipalities of Örnsköldsvik and Kramfors initiated an intensive investigation to make an inventory of needs and draw up a proposal for development areas. It was during one of these early discussions that the name Höga Kusten was first mentioned. And the people who were there liked the name! Soon the whole investigation was called the Höga Kusten Investigation and the name took its first tentative public steps on the journey that almost 30 years later would make it a world-famous concept thanks to the UNESCO nomination. But exactly who thought up the name has not been established. Two central figures in the drama were County Administrative Board official Lars Guvå and provincial architect Birger Åström. Tradition has it that it is the latter who is assigned the honour of thinking up the name but there is no clear documentation to support that. However, it is quite clear that both men played a prominent role in the investigation, not least Guvå.

T O G E T H E R W I T H R E P R E S E N TA T I V E S

But there was something else that tied Åström closer to Höga Kusten becoming a future world heritage site.

This was because it was he who signed the County Administrative Board's regulation about general shoreline protection along Höga Kusten in 1975, a decision that was very unpopular in many places, especially in Örnsköldsvik municipality. But we would hardly have had a world heritage site today without that far-sighted decision. was completed in 1974, the first of its kind, and perhaps the best one as far as results go. The report consisted of five subreports on areas that were to be developed: a market analysis for tourism and recreation; hiking trails; the leisure time habits of shift workers; cultural history, summer pastures, accommodation, arable land, resting areas, signposts, and recreational fishing.

The welfare project of the 1960s that aimed to promote the outdoor activities of the people began at this point to gradually change focus, a sort of transformation towards the tourism and adventure/experience sectors. The question is whether it was the name change in itself that helped to strengthen the regional visions that we actually did have something special on our home ground, something that other people should also be able to appreciate more. The work resulted in the establishment of several new nature reserves and also the creating of Skuleskogen's national park in 1984, a real gain in prestige for the Höga Kusten committee that continued to work enthusiastically after presenting the 300-page investigation report. But the work also led to more frequent transport services in the archipelago, improved service facilities and more guest harbours.

Plans were also made for a hiking trail that would run along the coastline from north to south. For a long time, the working name of the trail was the Sea Trail and it was still called that when the first two stages, 3 and 4 from Fjärdbotten - Gavik - Lappudden, were completed. However, later the trail was given its final name, the Höga Kusten trail when all 12 stages (later extended to 13) were ready in 1982.

T H E H Ö G A K U S T E N I N V E S T I G AT I O N

the change in name?

Well, there is a lot that indicates that that is the case.

After the name change, the region became a much more distinct brand name which, in addition, was free for use by everyone. And today there are many companies, organisations and events that frequently use the Höga Kusten brand name, either in Swedish or English. Everything from Höga Kusten hotellet and High Coast Hike to a newly started intermunicipal company, Höga Kusten Destinationsutveckling, which was formed as recently as in 2014 and whose purpose is to coordinate and support the destination development of this region. And it's no longer only about the world heritage site. Two new municipalities, Härnösand and Sollefteå, are now also part of the Höga Kusten family. Moreover, this year Fjällräven has designed a whole collection of clothes called Höga Kusten. So having said this, it's hard to envisage all these companies, organisations, ambitions and visions feeding off the old name, Ångermanland's steep coastline. So there's certainly something special about the name.

Welcome to Höga Kusten. // S O WA S A L L T H I S L I N K E D T O

Lasarettsgatan 15, 891 33 Örnsköldsvik | 0660-885 90 | paradiset@ornskoldsvik.se | www.paradisetornskoldsvik.se

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The somewhat diffuse area in central Sweden that had previously been called Ångermanland's steep coastline had suddenly turned into a magnet for tourists, a metamorphosis from a welfare state dream about meaningful, leisure pursuits out in the countryside, to a major tourist attraction in competition with other regions in Sweden and abroad.

E V E R Y T H I N G H A P P E N E D V E R Y Q U I C K LY.

Paradiset loves treats in everything regarding water play and spa. Through the years we have acquired great know-how regarding our costumers requests and composed different indulging experience packages to suit most tastes. We can also make tailor made solutions just for you. Do not hesitate to contact us to get the best package for you and your loved ones.

No matter how much we, the editorial staff, would like to think that the magazine that you are holding in your hand is unique and original, we are humbly well aware that there have been, and are, other destination magazines with the same passion for regional issues and, moreover, they existed long before we published our first issue. mer. We managed to find the very first issue of the newspaper Höga Kusten Tidningen, now almost 40 years old.

What a treasure that is! All the issues are available in the library archives.

Experiences

HÖGA KUSTEN TIDNINGEN

the predecessor of the Höga Kusten Magazine, the Höga Kusten paper, which was a dynamic journal from 1976-1987. Several organisations that worked within the tourism sector and tourism development were started up as a result of the committee's work, among them Mitt Sverige Turism (My Sweden Tourism). In the late 1990s, it was this organisation that established what was probably the most ambitious target ever to be formulated in this region; that Höga Kusten was to become a world heritage site.

T H E C O M M I T T E E A L S O S TA R T E D U P

PHOTO

Landsarkivet

TEXT

H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E

Håkan Nordström, Anders Lönn

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It more or less divides Sweden in two, extending from the mountains in the west to the Gulf of Bothnia in the east. Basically, half of Sweden lies to the north and the other half ot the south of this magnificent watercourse. It is no less than 463 kilometres long and with an average flow of almost 500 cubic metres per second out into the Gulf of Bothnia, this is Sweden's third biggest river. We are of course talking about the Ångermanälven river.

T

his river's voluminous flow of water helps to dilute the salt content of the Gulf of Bothnia, this part of the Baltic Sea, the world's second largest brackish sea after the Black Sea. The river runs through three counties: Västerbotten, Jämtland and Ångermanland, the latter being the one to give it its name. The name Ångermanland originates from Old Swedish "Angermannaland" which roughly means "the country of the inlet men". Around the river, the countryside alternates between wilderness with deep forests and genuine cultural landscape. The history of the villages along the river dates back to the Stone Age and there are numerous relics from that period. The most obvious are at Nämforsen in Näsåker, where Scandinavia's largest rock carving area is located.

Approximately 2,300 pictograms of fish, boats, moose and people have been carved into the slabs of rock just below the power station dam.

F R O M A H I S T O R I C A L P E R S P E C T I V E , timber floating has been of great significance

for the people living along the river. But there was no large-scale floating of timber along Ångermanälven until the mid-1700s when fine-blade saws started to be used in Kramfors and other places along the river. However, during the 1800s, the trees in the forests along the river began to be felled and the sawmill industry started up. This led to a substantial upswing for the settlements along Ångermanälven. The industrial breakthrough meant that trading with wood products increased significantly. The steam engine was a new form of power that made it possible to set up steam sawmills along the coast of Norrland.

Timber floating channels were now built at a rapid pace so as to meet the growing demand for wood products, especially by the dominant pulp industry. Timber floating is the transporting of floating timber, loose or bundled, on water. The work also included sorting the floated timber. In 1957, at the Sandslån sorting station, 22,787,152 logs were registered, a Swedish record, which means that at one point Ångermanälven was the largest timber floating route in Sweden. The Ångermanälven Timber Floating Association (Ångermanälvens Flottningsförening) was one of the last in existence in Sweden. In 1982, loose timber floating stopped altogether. of very different significance for the people who live, work and spend time in its vicinity ranging from using the cold water of the river to cool the whisky distillery process at Box in Marieberg to its fantastic fishing. Along the river, there are many beautiful fishing waters with a wide range of fish species waiting to be caught. If you are interested in fishing for salmon in Ångermanälven, the place to go is the area below the Sollefteå power plant. In recent years, the number of salmon in precisely this river has increased considerably. In addition to salmon, the area offers good opportunities to fish for sea trout, trout, grayling, whitefish, rainbow trout, Arctic char, perch and pike. For tourists, there are many places to explore by the river. Use our guide to discover the best gems located along the river as it flows through the High Coast area.

T O D AY T H E R I V E R I S

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DOWN THE 4 RAFTING ÅNGERMANÄLVEN RIVER A rafting trip with a picnic along the Ångermanälven river is an unforgettable experience and a perfect excursion on a fine summer's day. The trip from Forsmo to Granvåg takes a couple of hours while the Forsmo-Sollefteå trip takes up to five hours. The rental rafts can take up to 8 people. You can ask for a picnic basket to take onboard the raft or to have when you reach the landing place. A popular package is to book a rafting trip combined with a fun "triathlon" competition. Step on to the raft and float or paddle down the river for about 30 minutes, anchor by the "wilderness cabin" where you can play games and then enjoy refreshments in the cabin. After that, you resume your rafting trip and head towards Granvågsniporna.

This trip takes about three hours.

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SOLLEFTEÅ

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SÅGVERKET MEETINGS AND FOOD

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Next to the water in the village of Rö, 20 minutes by car on the road south of the Högakustenbron bridge, you will find Sågverket, a charming place which is perfect for meetings, relaxation and fulfilment.

This is a place where you can truly be yourself! The restaurant at Sågverket is well-known for its good food and is definitely worth a visit. Just remember to book a table. The accommodation is good and you will enjoy a good night's sleep and be able to rest up properly. Moreover, friendly and well-behaved pets are welcome.

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HÄRNÖSAND H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E

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10 BOX DESTILLERY Box Destilleri is beautifully located on the shore of the Ångermanälven river. The whisky that is produced here is talked about by people all over the world. Inside the old power plant from the turn of the last century, there are large copper boilers and in the storehouses there are more than 5,000 casks filled with whisky. Box Destilleri has an attractive, new visitor centre with a café and shop. The view of the river from the spacious verandah is fantastic. In July and August, the Box Visitor Center is open every day and offers guided tours of the whole distillery twice a day. The café has a selection of refreshments, including light meals. Here, you can also sample Box Single Malt Whisky.

ÖRNSKÖLDSVIK

5 NIPLEDENSOLLEFTEÅ Experience the Ådalen valley's special riverbank landscape from the Nipleden trail that starts and ends in central Sollefteå. The walk will take you along the Ångermanälven river past beautiful viewpoints and through fascinating riverbank landscape.

The total length of the Sollefteå – Österåsen – Ed – Sollefteå trail is 27 km. You can choose whether to hike the entire stretch or just parts of it. The trail goes mainly along the south and north sides of Ångermanälven.

Some stretches, particularly at Högmon, Rödskäggsnipan and Mjälan, are steep and narrow. At Österåsens Hälsohem, there is a recreational area with marked out trails 3 km, 5.5 km and 7 km - directly linked to the Nipleden Trail. A hiking guide with a map and other information is available free of charge from Sollefteå Tourist Office.

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Högakustenbron - the High Coast Bridge

Högakustenbron is one of Sweden's most beautiful works of architecture. A suspension bridge over the Ångermanälven river linking the municipalities of Kramfors and Härnösand. When it was inaugurated in 1997, the 1,800 metre bridge was the ninth longest suspension bridge in the world. It is also one of the highest constructions in Sweden with bridge pillars that rise 180 metres above the water. The archetype was the famous Golden Gate bridge in San Francisco. The span of the bridge is the longest in Scandinavia, the third longest in Europe and the eleventh longest in the world. Hotell Höga Kusten is located north of the bridge. Over the years, this has become a popular place to stop. Take a break here, let your children play in the playpark, and enjoy the fantastic view of the bridge and the river. You can eat a good meal in the hotel restaurant before resuming your journey along the river.

There is a good alternative to Hotell Höga Kusten a few hundred metres further up the river. Cosy Björkuddens Hotell & Restaurang is located on a headland down by the river with a fantastic view of the High Coast Bridge. Take a break here, enjoy a drink in the bar, spend the night in one of the cosy rooms, wake up to the rising sun reflected by the bridge and then continue your journey. bjorkudden.se hotellhoga-kusten.se 3

Rock carvings at Nämforsen, Näsåker

Nämforsen on the Ångermanälven river is one of Northern Europe's largest and most characteristic rock carving sites with about 2,300 carvings on the stones right next to the free-flowing rapids. The oldest carvings date back 6,000 years. The carvings show the Nordic hunting people's symbols - mostly moose - over hundreds of generations and also symbols that indicate contacts with people from the south. The large collection of rock carvings, the distinctive riverbank landscape, and the free-flowing rapids in summer make Nämforsen a world-class site of cultural heritage.

Nämforsen has a rock carving museum with a cafeteria, information, souvenir shop and guided tours. namforsen.com 14

Hemsö fästning - the Hemsö fortress

The Hemsö fortress on the island of Hemsön at the mouth of the Ångermanälven river north of Härnösand, is a popular destination for young and old alike. This used to be one of Sweden's most important fortifications. Here, you can visit a military installation from the Cold War era. Hemsö fortress was one of Sweden's best kept military secrets. Deep down in the Storråberget hill on Hemsön, a top-secret underground fortress was built. The fortress, manned by 320 soldiers, was built inside the hill so as to provide protection against nuclear weapons. It is still intact and gives a unique insight into one of Sweden's most important coastal defence installations during the Cold War. Havstoudd, with its special underground room, is located on the northern side of Hemsön. This is a natural beauty spot where one can see for miles over coast, sea and islands. The fortress was the largest coastal defence installation and is the only one of its kind to be preserved. It is possible to spend the night here. Kläffsön is a third underground room in the Hemsö barrier battalion defence system. It is located on the eastern side of Hemsön.

There are 15-metre high cannon turrets blasted down into the hill.

Above ground, only the actual artillery pieces with armour protection and camouflage netting are visible.

For centuries, this area has been of great strategic significance for Sweden's defence. The last time enemy forces were in this area was in 1809. During the war against Russia in 1721, the Russian navy burnt down Härnösand and then made their way up the river,

destroying fishing villages and sawmills on their way. The wellequipped fortress has workshops, large kitchens, a hospital ward, barracks, its own power station, a gunnery command centre, cannon turrets etc. Both inside and outside, the milieu here is intact, unspoiled and uniquely preserved. The newly-built restaurant opened in May this year. (see also page 38) hemsofastning.se 12

Sandöbron - the Sandö Bridge

Sandöbron is an arched bridge over the Ångermanälven river. It is divided into two parts that are 277 and 811 metres long. Before the new Högakustenbron bridge was opened in 1997, the E4 road went over the Sandöbron bridge, which at that time played an important role as a communication route across the river. During the construction of the first Sandö bridge, on 31 August 1939, the casting mould for the arches collapsed and 18 workers lost their lives. Not much attention was paid to the accident at the time because the Second World War broke out the following day.

Wästerlunds Café by the bridge-head is a café with a wonderful nostalgic ambience. It first opened its doors back in 1946 and over the years, the café has managed to retain a lot of its original interior décor. It is now classified as a historic listed building.

The Ådalen 31 monument Five people were shot dead and another five injured after military forces opened fire at a protest march in Ådalen in 1931. 50 years later, in 1981, a monument was inaugurated in memory of the incident. It was created by artist Lenny Clarhäll from Södertälje. The sculpture weighs three tons and was cast in bronze at the Bergman foundry in Stockholm. kramforsbygder.com adalen1931.se 9

Dannerotravet - the Dannero trotting racetrack

If you fancy going to watch horse-racing this summer, there are trotting races at Dannero the whole summer.

Arena Dannero is one of two trotting racetracks on Höga Kusten (the other is Solänget in Örnsköldsvik). Dannero is a well-known 40-hectare trotting facility with a racetrack, stables, a straight track, stand-alone indoor grandstand, forest track, sand pit and a newly-built Multihall. Dannero's grandstand holds 500 seated spectators. The Multihall is right next to the restaurant which holds 250 seated guests. The restaurant is divided into a sports bar area and a waiter service area. The roofed terrace holds another 90 people and there is a good view of the racetrack from here. arenadannero.se

ONE OF SWEDEN'S BEST PRESERVED MILITARY SECRETS.

H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E

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Klockhuset (the Clock House) in Skadom

If you are interested in clocks, you mustn't miss Klockhuset in Skadom. Here, there is a fine collection of almost 800 wall clocks, grandfather clocks, tabletop clocks, and alarm clocks from four centuries. There are also several interesting sundials on display outside the museum.

Torbjörn Holmer has collected clocks since the 1960s. Now he is exhibiting his entire four-century collection of tabletop, wall and grandfather clocks in a renovated barn. Guided tours and coffee and cake are available all year round. botea.se

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Sandslån's three museums

At Sandslån, families can enjoy a real museum day by visiting three museums at one and same place: a timber floating museum, a witch museum and a doll museum.

The timber floating museum is located in the Kejsarkasernen barracks at Sandslån. The exhibition entitled " Where the river meets the sea" describes the timber floating and sorting period at Sandslån from 1872-1982. During the 1870s, people came to Ådalen from all over the place, many of them from the county of Värmland. A new community emerged. Sandslån became a melting pot for, among other things, social movements. The most popular was the sports movement with national bandy matches at the "log-floater rink".

The exhibition at the witch museum is called "Tidens tro drabbar människan" (How people were afflicted by the beliefs of that time) and it describes the witch trials that took place in Torsåker in 1675. The exhibition about the witch trials is located in one of the brick buildings at Sandslån. The exhibition gives the background to the incredible and insane trials that were held in Sweden in the 17th century. There was a short but intense period of witch hysteria that was called "Det stora oväsendet" (The great commotion) and which went on from 1668-1676. All in all, 71 people were beheaded and burnt on Häxberget (Witch Hill) in Kramfors municipality. They were sentenced to death for witchcraft. It was claimed they went on magical flights to Blockula and lived a life of sin with the Devil there. This is the biggest documented mass execution of people in Sweden, and in peacetime and with the support of prevailing legislation.

After visiting the museum, you can also visit the hill where everything took place. How to get there: There is a path called Häxstigen (the Witch Path) from Torsåkers church, to Häxberget (the Witch Hill), also known as Bålberget. where the sentenced witches were beheaded and burnt at the stake. The Witch Path is 7.5 kilometres long. For those who prefer a shorter walk, it is possible to park at the foot of the hill and then walk about 400 metres.

Up on the hill, there is a monument.

On the bottom floor of the Witch Museum, there is a section on the mythological creatures Vittra, gnomes and little devils. One of the rooms has a small doll museum. Here you will find the dolls from Rajateatern's production of "A Christmas Carol" by Charles Dickens. The exhibition has been created by doll-maker Jonna Grimstoft who made most of the dolls. A magical world opens up when you see these dolls.

IT WAS CLAIMED THEY WENT ON MAGICAL FLIGHTS-TO BLOCKULA AND LIVED A LIFE OF SIN 11

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Beaver safari and parasailing

lansmansveranda.se

At Kåtabyn in Junsele, you have every opportunity of being really active. Start by renting a canoe and set off on a beaver safari on the Röån river. This part of the river has no tricky parts and it flows through a wild area with plenty of plant and animal life. Röån is considered to be the place in the Höga Kusten area with most beavers.

If you've ever wished you could fly, you can try it out in a risk-free situation by being pulled up in a parasail behind a boat and at the same time have a truly fantastic view of the area.

When you have dried off after your flight, why not challenge your friends and family to a game of paintball? Paintball is a team game that everyone can play. It's full of action and great fun while also promoting the ability to cooperate and enhancing leadership skills. If paintball feels too exciting, you might prefer to relax with some fishing. There are many different types of fishing to try, from fly-fishing courses to trolling fishing.

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Junsele djurpark - Junsele zoo

Lynx, bear, wolf and white tigers. These are some of the animals that are waiting for you to visit them at the zoo in Junsele which celebrates its 50th birthday this year. If you have ever wondered what it's like to work with animals in a zoo, now you have the chance to find out. The zoo offers a different sort of package where families, together with the zoo personnel, can test what it's like to be a zookeeper. The zoo offers a package with both accommodation and zookeeping practice.

solleftea-fvo.se

aventyrsberget.se H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E

Salmon fishing in Sollefteå

More salmon is caught here than in most other places in Sweden.

Fishing is regulated and you must book a fishing permit in order to be sure of a place.

The fishing spot known as Nipstadsfisket is one of Sollefteå's primary tourist attractions and you have to book in good time in order to secure one of the twelve sought-after fishing spots that can be used during light summer nights.

Nipstadsfisket offers exclusive fishing for salmon and sea trout, right in the centre of the town of Sollefteå, in the Ångermanälven river. This stretch of fishing water extends 200 metres along each side of the river, downstream from Sollefteå's power station.

The month of July is the very best time to fish for salmon at Nipstadsfisket. On 14 June 2005, a record-breaking salmon was caught at Nipstadsfisket. It weighed 24.2 kg. A salmon weighing 32.8 kg was caught on 19 July 1995 in a seine net. There is a good chance of catching some large salmon. Spinning fly-fishing is best in the late evening and at night but quite a lot of salmon is caught during the day in the fly-fishing area.

The choice of fly is determined by the weather and the colour, flow and temperature of the water. Sollefteå's fishing conservation area extends about 10 km downstream of the power plant in Sollefteå. Fishing for salmon and sea trout is possible all along this part of the river.

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Länsmansgården Ådalen

A homestead with a lot of history and genuine, personal service.

Suitable for groups that want a quiet environment for their meeting but also a little pampering and well-cooked food. Since the owner of Länsmansgården is one of the founders of Box Destilleri, conferences can easily b supplemented with a visit to the distillery and some interesting and educational whisky tasting.

The homestead is located in a quiet part of Lugnvik with a large garden and verandah. It was built in the early 1900s for the local bailiff Anselm Borin. Some of the interior décor has not changed since the period when the Hedberg family (Björkå AB) and their servants lived there. The current owner took over the homestead in 2009 and has successively renovated the building while retaining its original charm.

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THREE TASTES OF HÖGA KUSTEN PHOTO

Lucky Day/Tareq Taylor’s Nordic Cookery

TEXT

Steven Ekholm

In recent years, he has travelled all over the Nordic countries and cooked local delicacies for a TV audience of many million viewers. When the versatile chef from Skåne, cookbook writer and honorary "peasant" Tareq Taylor visited Höga Kusten, he chose ingredients from both forest and sea Naturally.

T

here's a lot going on in Tareq Taylor's life right now.

In addition to running the palace garden café Slottsträdgårdens Kafé och Kockeriet in Malmö, doing TV-chef shows for Trädgårdstisdag for Swedish Television, writing cookbooks, and giving lectures, it is soon time to film the third series of the BBC TV series production: Tareq Taylor's Nordic Cookery. The series is broadcast for 80 million viewers in 115 different countries and is riding on a seemingly insatiable wave of international interest in the Nordic Cuisine that has been created by top restaurants like Noma, Mathias Dahlgren Matsalen and Fäviken Magasinet.

When Tareq visited Höga Kusten, he chose to cook blackened wild salmon with beetroot yoghurt, fried fillet of whitefish with whitefish roe, crème fraiche and red onion, and then,finally, very succulent moose fillet Tournedos with lingonberries, gin-flambéed chanterelles and cloudberries. Dishes that are simply oozing with Höga Kusten's own identity. These are local ingredients cooked with Tareq Taylor's personal touch. We can give you the recipes - but you have to do the cooking yourself!

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FRIED FISH & HASH BROWN (Previous spread)

ELK, CLOUDBERRIES & CHANTERELLES 700 g elk tenderloin 250 g chantarelles 1 clove garlic 1 yellow onion 1 tsp. fresh thyme –chopped 1 tbsp. butter 3 tbsp. gin 50 ml dried chantarelles – crushed 200 ml heavy cream 3 tbsp. lingon berry juice or red wine Salt and pepper

200 g cloudberries 2 msk sugar 2 msk vinegar 2 msk water

into four tournedos. In a large pan, fry the meat on all sides and salt and pepper to taste. Remove the meat from the pan and cook in an oven at 120 C until the core temperature is 56 C. Let the meat rest for ten minutes before serving.

In the same pan fry the chantarelles with one clove chopped garlic, one sliced yellow onion and thyme. Sauté for five minutes and then add the gin. Flambé the mushrooms and then add the dried chantarelles, heavy cream and lingonberry juice. Cook until nice and creamy. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve the meat with creamy mushrooms and pickled cloudberries.

The pickled cloudberries. Mix the sugar, vinegar and water in a bowl until the sugar has dissolved. Add the cloudberries and Meadowsweet. Let it sit for 20 minutes before serving.

CUT THE TENDERLOIN

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500 g almond potatoes 600 g whitefish fillets 100 ml wheat flour 100 g butter 100 g whitefish roe 1 red onion 200 ml crème fraiche For serving: Mache salad Lemon Dill

very fine and squeeze out the water. Fry golden and crisp in plenty of butter. Salt to taste.

Cut the fish into serving size and roll each piece in wheat flour. Fry golden in plenty of butter and salt to taste.

Serve the fish on top of the crisp hash brown and garnish with whitefish roe, crème fraiche, thinly sliced red onion, salad, dill and a lemon wedge.

G R AT E T H E P O T AT O E S

together and rub the salmon fillet carefully on all sides. Leave to cure for 30 minutes in room temperature. Brush off any excess salt and sugar and sere the salmon on all sides in a very hot and dry pan. Be careful not to cook the salmon all the way through. Grate the beetroot very fine and squeeze out the juice. Mix it with the Turkish yoghurt until you get a smooth texture. Mix the vinegar, sugar and water in a bowl. Slice the spring onions and add to the liquid. Let the onions marinate for 20 minutes before serving. Fry the bread in butter until golden and crisp.

Serve slices of salmon with purple yoghurt, pickled spring onions and crisp bread. Garnish with dill and flower cress.

M I X S A LT A N D S U G A R

H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E

25 S U M M E R

ISSUE 2015

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Relaxation

400 g fresh salmon fillet, 1 tbsp. salt 2 tbsp. sugar 200 ml Turkish yoghurt 1 beetroot 5 spring onions 30 cm fresh angelica 100 ml white wine vinegar 100 ml sugar 100 ml water 4 thin slices white bread 1 tbsp. butter

Paradiset SPA has been inspired by the best the spa world has to offer and invites you to pleasurable experiences for both body and soul. Here you can enjoy Aufguss sessions with themes from near and afar, inhale salt steam in our Saltarium, meditate in our light sauna, linger in our infinity pool, wander our tao sansa path, relax in our winter garden and find inner peace in a wide arrange of other activities.

SALMON & BEETROOT YOGURT

CULTURE

Bursting with cultural activities, with everything from temporary exhibitions, theatre performances and concerts to the recurring and popular New Orleans festival.

Manna PHOTO

T H E R E I S N O T H I N G quite like this place

anywhere else in Sweden. Mannaminne in Nordingrå is a teeming, colourful and constantly expanding all-inclusive work of art. A cultural milieu for all sorts of artistic encounters, musical surprises, and engaging creativity for all ages. Quite frankly, a visit to Höga Kusten is not complete without a visit to Mannaminne.

A N D E R S A N D B A R B R O Åberg's lifetime

achievement Mannaminne is now run in the form of a foundation. It consists of some 50 buildings and vehicles from all over the world.

Trams, cars and boats are found side by side with a Hungarian farm, Chinese pavilion, Norwegian stave church, a round barn and an

accordion museum. And a lot more besides! There is also a 15-room hotel, Hotell Sestola, decorated with works of art, and a newly renovated restaurant. During the high season, Mannaminne is bursting with cultural activities - temporary exhibitions, theatre performances, concerts and the popular New Orleans festival on 24-26 July, which this year has several renowned artists like Babben Larsson and Svante Thuresson. The festival area has several stages and offers a wide range of jazz styles, everything from Dixieland to bluegrass and blues.

On 17-19 July, Mannaminne is hosting an Opera Weekend with a programme that includes a culinary opera evening and children's opera.

During the summer months, every Wednesday is

A PLACE THAT DOESN'T STAGNATE AND CONTENT ITSELF WITH WHAT IS ALREADY THERE H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E

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Anders Dahlin

TEXT

Steven Ekholm

"Children's Wednesday" with activities like a scrap workshop with scrap metal, colour bathing for babies and a shadow theatre workshop.

W H I L E Mannaminne is a kind of large outdoor

museum, it is a place that doesn't stagnate and content itself with what is already there. It's in a constant process of change and development.

Every year there is something new in its programme. There may be a new building or even a new museum but usually there are new exciting exhibitions or a new activity. This year a new "Children's House" will be inaugurated and there is also a new exhibition in the tram hall about old trams in Rostock and Oslo.

G R A B T H E O P P O R T U N I T Y of taking

the whole family for a memorable visit to Mannaminne which is open every day in June, July and August. The museum is also open at weekends during September and October. //

"Nowhere else does Sweden's coastline rise as high as here, where the steep forested mountain drops dramatically 300 metres down to the sea, and nowhere else can one see so many glittering little lakes and tarns with water lilies".

Sten Selander in Stränder 1951.

TEXT

David Rocksén

T

hose were the words used by lyricist and botanist Sten Selander to vividly describe Höga Kusten, an area he found both distinctive and grandiose. The sharp shifts in the landscape that make Höga Kusten so special have also made their mark on the flora in this area. Höga Kusten can in fact be called a sort of botanical borderland.

Of course Nordic species are found here but on the southwest facing slopes, there are also outposts of heat-loving southern species. Even more surprising are the western alpine plants that have found their way here

or have remained here as relics from the Ice Age. Alkaline rock types, calcareous mires in the hinterland, and shell gravel bars have enabled lime-loving species to spread locally in certain areas that are of conservation value. Forest grazing, summer pasture and haymaking are human activities that have also influenced what plants are now found along Höga Kusten. All in all, these factors have created the conditions for a rich and varied flora. There are many exciting species to discover. The following description is a selection of some of the most special plants you will find while hiking on Höga Kusten.

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Wood Fescue

Fairy Slipper A M Y S T E R I O U S FA I R Y TA L E C R E AT U R E

THE OUTPOSTED SOUTHERNER

The Fairy Slipper orchid is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful and remarkable flowers on Höga Kusten. Despite being so small, it has an unusually large flower for a Swedish orchid. It is unmistakable with its single flower which is often completely pink. The

Many people associate grass with either something one is allergic to or something that grows too fast on the lawn. However, there are exceptions that prove the rule. A number of true grasses are very pretty and unusual species of grass, like Wood Fescue, that only grow in special places, are especially fascinating. Wood Fescue is an unusual grass in Sweden which has Höga Kusten as its northern boundary. It is a broadleaved, dark green and strongly tufted grass that is easy to recognise. Both of the known locations on Höga Kusten are along stony paths on south-facing slopes in ancient natural forest. It seems the grass is sensitive to disturbances like forest grazing which is why it is mainly found on slopes in old natural forests. The grass is easy to find both at the Halsvik ravine in Nordingrå and in the Skuleskogen forest. Take a look beside the path on the way up to the Slåttdalsskrevan crevice just after you have passed Kälaviken. There you can see a

Latin name Calypso bulbosa originates from the name of a beautiful Greek nymph called Calypso

who lived alone in a cave on the island of Ogygia. Seldom has a Latin name been so fitting because the Fairy Slipper, mystical and beautiful like a fairytale creature,is found alone deep inside the primeval forests of Norrland.

It is a protected species all over Sweden but a few locations can be found in the northern part of the country, from Hälsingland up to Norrbotten. It grows in old spruce forests, often on calcareous ground and frequently on slopes with moving subsoil water. Like all orchids, its life-cycle is complicated and the seed is dependent on symbiosis with a mushroom in order to germinate. To make matters even more complex, the Fairy Slipper is pollinated by certain specific species of bees. The bees like to eat a lot of blueberry flowers and then they enjoy the nectar of the Fairy Slipper as a dessert. In Ångermanland, there are some stable occurrences of Fairy Slipper, for instance in the Villmyran nature reserve at Nordingrå where one can see the flower in bloom in early June. Very sadly, several of the places where Fairy Slipper grew have been clear-felled in recent decades so now it is a seriously threatened species on Höga Kusten. Moreover, there are reports from other places that a new risk factor for Fairy Slipper are the warmer winters we are now experiencing because the absence of a warm blanket of snow allows the cold to destroy the flower buds on its wintergreen leaves. So for the sake of the Fairy Slipper, we must hope for more snow in winter and that blueberry sprigs flower so that the bees will find food and come to the same forests where the Fairy Slipper grows. Do as the mushrooms, blueberries, bees and Fairy Slippers. Cooperate and work together!

tufted family that has chosen to delight the eyes of passers-by right next to the path. Every year, the tufts are counted by committed volunteers, known as "flora guards", to make sure this distinguished resident is in good condition and not reducing in number.

DESPITE ITS UNUSUALLY TOUGH NAME, THE DRAGONHEAD IS ACTUALLY A RATHER RESERVED TYPE

Hard-fern

Russian Dragonhead

T H E W I N T E R - G R E E N M O I ST U R E - LOV E R

A LO N E WO L F F R O M T H E ST E P P E

Hard-fern has a distinctive appearance, even for a fern, and is easily recognisable through its dark-green leathery leaves. It has indentations, like a comb, and is a winter-green plant. It is a good example of a plant that originates from the west which, for some reason, has an easterly outpost on Höga Kusten. It is thought that these were brought here via rivers straight after the ice melted.

Another theory is that it was easier for seeds and spores to be blown here before the landscape was covered by forest. A third

theory is that spores or seeds were transported here in the coat of reindeers because long ago, there

were periods with intensive reindeer grazing in the Skuleskogen forest, for instance. No matter how it happened, the hard-fern is rather rare all over Sweden and is an "indicator species" which means it can be used as an indicator for assessing which forests are most worthy of protection. It thrives in moist locations and in places with very high air humidity, e.g. in Nätra's mountain forest.

It is found in the USA too, where, just like in Sweden, it prefers the wetter north-western part of the country. The Indians in that part of North America noticed that deer, when they shed their antlers, sometimes rubbed the stubs of their antlers against the hardfern. This observant and innovative indigenous people therefore used hard-fern to cure different types of skin problems. In fact, the species is still called deer fern sometimes in English. Here, it is most easily found in the Skuleskogen forest, for instance by the western entrance where it grows alongside the path by the first mire you come to. Why not spend an autumn day combining picking mushrooms with studying a winter-green fern?

H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E

This plant is is not as dangerous as its name implies! It's a plant that grows to 30-40 cm and it has small, purple flowers that grow as a long earlike inflorescence. The name Dragonhead refers to the Latin family name, Dracocephalum, when means dragonhead.

Possibly, some imaginative botanist thought the shape of the flower looked like a dragon's head. The prefix Russian is correct; the flower does originate from Russia and is normally found in eastern Europe and western Asia. It is thought it came to our country during a year of famine when emergency cattle feed was acquired from some province in Russia. An alternative hypothesis is that it came in with seeds of clover that were brought in from the east.

In Russia, it is a steppe plant that thrives on dry, sandy ground. In Sweden, it now grows in only one place in the county of Medelpad, and in three places in the dry, sandy riverbank landscape of Resele and Junsele in the Ådalen valley. Despite is unusually tough name, the Dragonhead is actually a rather reserved type that

doesn't like socialising with other plants. So, it's a real lone wolf and as long as it has a little sandy soil,

a sunny location, and is surrounded by animals, the Dragonhead is happy. The fact is that it has such difficulty competing with other plants that the County Administrative Board and Sollefteå Municipality have collaborated to take steps to restore the grazed riverbank landscape along the Tourist Route at Resele. Many other pasture-loving species have also benefited from these measures and now the drive along the Tourist Route is exceptionally pretty.

Our own Pacific Coast highway is worth a visit! As is our Russian immigrant.

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Field Gentian THE REAPER'S FRIEND

A special kind of flora has developed in meadows that were used in the old-fashioned way over a long period of time. One of these species, the Field Gentian, is now under severe threat. It is found in some of the finest meadowlands on Höga Kusten, for example, in the Älgberget-Björnberget nature reserve where the summer pastures are still maintained. Old-fashioned haymaking was advantageous for species that like low-growing meadows with low quality soil where only a small proportion of old plant parts are left to decay. In the olden days, meadows like that were common but nowadays many of the plants that thrived there are endangered species. This is a beautiful blue flower that is famous for

closing up in cloudy weather and only looking its best in sunlight. In his book "Flora Lapponica", Carl

Linnaeus gave an insight into how common the Field Gentian used to be: "I only saw this plant, which is very common in all of the rest of Sweden, once in Umeå's Lappmark. On a few occasions, I have seen in Sweden that some priests had prescribed to farmers who suffered from fever, to drink a decoction of this bitter, little plant and that this has sometimes helped". As Linnaeus accurately wrote, the Field Gentian is a very bitter plant that cattle and horses won't eat which means it thrives on grazed grounds too since other plants get eaten by the grazing animals. If you have access to a little meadow, but you don't have a cow, you can do a very good deed of nature conservation by scything the meadow in the old-fashioned way. Use a cutting tool, either a scythe or a mower bar, in early August. Allow the hay to dry for a few days so that the seeds are released and then rake everything up carefully, leaving nother to decay. It sounds easy, doesn't it? But think long-term and don't take on too big an area. After a few years, you will see some species of flowers and butterflies in your meadow. If you're really lucky, maybe a Field Gentian will grow there in the end!

Northern Rock-cress O U R M O S T L O YA L R E S I D E N T

The most remarkable plant on Höga Kusten is without doubt the low white-flowered Northern Rock-cress which grows in rock crevices and on gravel out on the coast. It grows within a limited area between Härnösand and Skags udde and Höga Kusten

is in fact the only place in Sweden where it is found. How it came to Höga Kusten and why it doesn't spread

any further is an exciting, scientific enigma! Just like some other seashore plants, Northern Rock-cress has spread to the hinterland but not here in Sweden, in Norway where it grows on steep slopes and rock shelves in the mountains. It is most likely that its location here on Höga Kusten has its origins in Norway. It is thought that many mountain plants on Höga Kusten came here very soon after the inland ice has disappeared. After that, they stayed on here as relics from that time but why the Northern Rock-cress doesn't spread further along the Baltic Sea coast is a harder question to answer. The only occurrence in Ångermanland that was not on a seashore was found in 2003 at Sandviken on the island of Ulvön.

The Northern Rock-cress that was found there grew 20 metres up on a rock shelf, about 100 metres from the sea. It is quite mindblowing to think that maybe this very plant has been growing on this rock shelf the entire time the mountain rose out of the sea, that is to say for 2000 years! Carl Linnaeus detected the Northern Rock-cress back in the 1700s and it was the first pressed plant to be collected in Ångermanland. Some of Linnaeus' plants are preserved at the British Museum in London and one Northern Rock-cress was taken from "Hernösand" sometime before the year of 1755. So one can say that the Northern Rock-cress is definitely Höga Kusten's most loyal and faithful resident!

Pasqueflower T H E Å D A L E N VA L L E Y ' S S P R I N G P R I M E U R

This distinctive flower is enticed up by the sun early on in spring.

Like coltsfoot, it sends up its furry, beautiful purple-blue flower even before the leaves have grown. In Sweden, it only

grows in the Ådalen valley here on Höga Kusten and on the island of Gotland. The reason it thrives in

these places would seem to be that both these locations have light, open pine forests with gravelly soil. The Pasqueflower is also favoured by open ground, as is often found in the riverbank landscape, because otherwise its seeds tend to get stuck on sprigs and lower vegetation without reaching the ground. The Pasqueflower's Swedish name, Nipsippan, comes from the riverbank locations (nipor) where it grew in Ramsele, Ådalsliden and Junsele. Previously, it was called tjälablomman, "ground frost flower", and a good guess would be perhaps that it often appeared straight after the ground frost had melted from the ground. It used to be very popular to pick a few Pasqueflowers and put them in a table vase for the festivals in May. This in fact led to it being threatened by extinction in Sweden until the priest Erik Modin in Multrå stopped the practice in 1913 by sending a letter to the King's executive.

That was when the Pasqueflower was made a protected species in Sweden. The reason we know about this is that Erik Modin, on his death bed, described how he had managed to protect the Pasqueflower. His nurse wrote: "Doctor E. Modin is lying at Utanede nursing home in Edsele, waiting to die. He has make an effort to fulfil his promise to write an article for Svensk natur (Swedish Nature). But as he himself said: "What can a deadbeat ninety-yearold do, without access to notes and books!" But his will is admirable. Even though at times he doesn't know where he is, he has mustered up his last strength for this dictation." Just imagine how happy Mr Modin would be if he knew that the distinctive Pasqueflower is still giving pleasure to tourists and the inhabitants of his beautiful Ådalen valley today!

HOW IT CAME TO HÖGA KUSTEN AND WHY IT DOESN'T SPREAD ANY FURTHER IS AN EXCITING SCIENTIFIC ENIGMA 30

Lasarettsgatan 15, 891 33 Ă–rnskĂśldsvik | 0660-885 90 | paradiset@ornskoldsvik.se | www.paradisetornskoldsvik.se

In our adventure bath you will find one of the longest water slides in Sweden, our 180 meter long Magic Eye, where a winding ride awaits! We also offer the youngest ones adventures in an amusement corner filled with fun things such as a sandy beach, thunder and lightning, waterfalls and plenty of opportunities to play and interact. The tropical pool landscape is a paradise for everyone.

Adventures

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SWEAT

A homeostatic process when extreme strain is caused by physical activity and a cooling saline liquid, sweat, is produced by sweat glands in the skin. is not just a natural part of exertion; all methods of study and analysis have shown that is good for the body to sweat since it removes toxins, facilitates healing and a healthy blood circulation. This summer, there are plenty of opportunities for you to sweat a bit extra. We offer several races

that will take you through the most beautiful parts of our area - and faster than most! Running, road cycling, swimming competitions, mountain bike and multisport. We offer you some selected challenges that will get your pulse up and at same time enable you to enjoy some of the best views of this world heritage site (if you have the energy!).

S W E AT I N G

H Ă– G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E

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SUM M E R I SSU E 20 1 5

HÖGA KUSTEN'S TOUGHEST CHALLENGES Höga Kusten Trail This takes you through the very best parts of the Höga Kusten world heritage site. You have 12 hours to get yourself through the Skuleskogen forest and up the mighty Skuleberget mountain a total distance of 43 kilometres. hogakustentrail.se

Höga Kusten Marathon

Most definitely, one of Sweden's toughest but also most beautiful marathon races. It starts at Nordingrå and will take you along the undulating roads in the region for 42,195 metres which is the length of a classic marathon run. hkmarathon.nu

Höga Kusten Swimrun

A unique competition in a unique environment. Teams where two participants combine swimming and running along a 35-km track in the archipelago, on and in between islands. 5.4 km swimming and 29.6 km running. hogakustenswimrun.se

Höga Kusten Trampet

A completely new road cycling race that follows a classic 10-km route around the bridges in the Kramfors region, over the Högakustenbron and Sandöbron bridges etc. hkcyklisterna.se

High Coast Ultra

High Coast Ultra is one of Sweden's most challenging ultra-trail race. The race will be arranged for the second time this year. Choose between two distances: the longer is 129 m and the shorter (!!) 75 km. They start at the foot of the Skuleberget mountain. The goal for both distances is the Högakustenbron bridge. Official qualification race for Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc® highcoastultra.se

Tolvtjärnsloppet

Tolvtjärnsloppet is a popular MTB endurance race. The track is mainly on gravel roads and paths aounnd Långviksmon.

Tolvtjärnsloppet is a seeding race for the Cykelvasan race. ckornen.se

Höga Kusten Multi

HK Multi, which is part of the Höga KustenMarathon, is a somewhat easier Multisport competition. Running, cycling and swimming with some easy orienteering. The whole track is located in the Nordingrå area. hkmarathon.nu

We have a precious heritage to nurture. From the lush inland to the spectacular coast. Unique, mythical and filled with untouched nature, but also an area full of history and strong believes in the future.

We who live here are proud and friendly and nothing seems impossible to us.

Experience a destination where adventure, relaxation and good flavors will enchance your stay. Welcome to share all of this with us!

Welcome to the High Coast!

www.hogakusten.com

Ångermanlands four municipalities, Sollefteå, Örnsköldsvik Kramfors and Härnösand have come together in a joint company with the objective to together develop the tourism industry and create 800 new jobs in the High Coast area.

viaferrataskuleberget

A UNIQUE ADRENALINE KICK AND AN AMAZING ADVENTURE We have Europe’s largest Via Ferrata Center with four trails that have different levels of difficulty for all.

OPENING TIMES Drop-in days: May-August 10.00-19.00 • September 10.00-17.00 • October 10.00-15.00 VIA FERRATA AB SKULEBERGET • 870 33 DOCKSTA • PHONE: +46 (0)613-405 00 • LATTE: +46 (0)70-612 22 15 • TERO: +46 (0)70-612 22 16 E-MAIL: INFO@VIAFERRATA.SE • WWW.VIAFERRATA.SE

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