Travel - June 2020 by Northern Advocate

travel C R U I S E

S P E C I A L

JUNE 2, 2020

AWAY FROM IT ALL

AOTEAROAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S AMAZING OFF THE BEATEN TRACK ADVENTURES

GO NZ!

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2 | Tuesday, June 2, 2020

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Your new winter sun escape You may not be able to head to a tropical island this year for your winter holiday, but there’s a spot not too far from home where you’ll find plenty of sun and expanses of stunning landscapes.

“W

hakatāne is currently leading the annual race for sunniest spot in New Zealand and we are consistently the sunniest town in the North Island every year.” Says Anna Williams, Ōhope beach local and Marketing Advisor for Whakatāne Tourism and Events. “This mean plenty of opportunities, even during the winter months, to get out and explore some sensational landscapes.” If you’re after an affordable holiday away from it all, winter is the perfect time to visit Whakatāne, without the crowds of summer. You might find a bush walk all to yourself, with only the rustling and calls of native birds to share the journey. Or walk along Ōhope beach with your nearest companion a dot in the distance. “There’s an exhilarating feeling you get when you have expanses of space and beautiful landscapes almost to yourself.” Anna says. “The weight of the world falls off your shoulders and it just makes you feel good.”

More than you might imagine

If you need some activities thrown in amongst the serenity, you might be surprised to find what Whakatāne has to offer. Eco experiences top the list, with a chance to get up close to wild kiwi after dark or a trip to Moutohorā eco sanctuary

to kayak alongside curious seals. “Our area is now home to over 300 wild Kiwi, making us the official Kiwi capital of the world™. Many of them live within a stone’s throw of suburban streets, and you’ll find them spread amidst the bush clad hills from Whakatane to Ōhope Beach,” explains Anna. “It really is very special because 20 years ago numbers were down to eight, and thanks to the volunteerlead Whakatane Kiwi Trust predator control operations, they’ve flourished.” From June, Kiwi Night Walks are held every Friday evening. It’s a great opportunity to hear the Kiwi calling and rustling through native bush, and discover other fascinating creatures that come alive when the sun goes down. For those holidaying with kids in tow, taking a self-guided walk of the Fairbrother Loop – 1hr – or following the Kiwi wandering trail, is destined to burn off some energy. “You can pick up a scavenger hunt brochure from I-Site and find the ten life-like, life size bronze kiwi statues which wander right through the heart of Whakatāne,” says Anna. “Great fun for the whole family – and a way to explore the town.” Moutohorā (Whale Island) is accessible by guided tour only. The 143-hectare remnant volcano is one of Aotearoa’s best-kept secrets, located nine kilometres

MAIN PHOTO: Moutohora Island kayaking | INSET PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: Kaputerangi (Toi’s Pā) lookout, Surfer at Ōhope Beach Picture Neil Hutton, Enjoying a day on the gold course, Adult male kiwi Picture Neil Hutton, Fisherman’s Wharf

offshore from Whakatāne. The predatorfree island is home to a number of New Zealand’s rare and endangered plants, birds and reptiles, you can spot dolphins, little blue penguins, curious seals and native birds. Saddleback/tieke, kakariki/ red-crowned parakeet, bellbirds, tui, and grey warbler flourish - many of which are endangered or seldom seen on the New Zealand mainland. A visit to the island includes a stop at Sulphur Bay, where geothermal springs come up through the sand creating your own hot pool – just like Hot Water Beach but without the crowds.

Good vibrations

Because there’s plenty to get excited about, says Kathy Potter, owner of the region’s renowned Mexican cantina, Cadera and proud local. “For us that have lived and breathed Whakatane our whole lives we know why we never leave,” she enthuses. “It’s because the lifestyle, the people, the stunning

scenery, the beaches, the walks, and vibe is just so easy going and all-embracing.” It’s not about ‘trying’ to be ‘real’, it just is, says Kathy. “We’re not just a gateway to the East Cape, Whakatane is a place to connect with across the board – surfing, biking, golf, fishing – plus food!” Anna agrees. “Restaurants like Fisherman’s Wharf in Ohope and Cadera, and L’Epicerie Larder have such a strong following of locals and visitors because they imbue that relaxed, everyman’s atmosphere and draw on the best of local flavours and utilise local produce.” Whether you’re a summer holiday Ōhope-regular or have never ventured to the Eastern Bay of Plenty, a trip to Whakatāne this winter should be top of the list. Make a weekend of it or a longer road trip to a place where the locals know how good they’ve got it. Discover more at Whakatāne.com

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CONTENTS

travel@nzherald.co.nz

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FROM THE

TRAVEL EDITOR I was supposed to be in Las Vegas this week, followed by a few days in Hawaii. In April, I had to cancel a trip to Italy. In August, I was hoping to visit Uzbekistan. But as we all know by now, 2020 had other plans. Aside from “unprecedented”, “bubble” and “new normal”, the buzzword we’re hearing most right now is “pivot”. Businesses and employees are pivoting to new ways of working and now, those of us who were planning to travel internationally this year are pivoting to holidays at home. How lucky! Over the next four weeks, in partnership with 100% Pure New Zealand, Travel will be showcasing all the amazing things Aotearoa has to offer the Kiwi traveller. First up, we’re focusing on off the beaten track adventures — from great glamping getaways to unforgettable outdoor activities. There’s a lot to cover ... so much so, you’ll wonder why you ever wanted to go overseas anyway. To kick things off, I’ve reminisced about my favourite New Zealand travel memories, plus the places I’m longing to visit, for this weeks’ Life in Travel Q&A, right. This week’s issue has given me so many new places to pop on my list. I hope it does the same s wishlist. for you.

stephanie.holmes@nzherald.co.nz

CONTACTS

Travel Editor: Stephanie Holmes Travel team: Maggie Wicks, Juliette Sivertsen Designers: Courtney Whitaker, Rob Cox Features Production Editor: Isobel Marriner Sub-editors: Jill Stanford, Maureen Marriner, Sue Baxalle travel@nzherald.co.nz nzherald.co.nz/travel Facebook.com/nzhtravel Instagram.com/nzhtravel Listen to our podcast Trip Notes at iHeartRadio Advertising: Samantha Glasswell, ph: 021 209 0230 Samantha.Glasswell@nzme.co.nz All prices in editorial content are in NZ dollars, unless specified

A LIFE IN TRAVEL Stephanie Holmes

What are your favourite memories from childhood family holidays in New Zealand? Unlucky for me, I didn’t grow up in New Zealand. I first arrived on a working holiday visa and I planned to stay for six months. Seventeen years later I’m still here, which shows just what huge power New Zealand has to captivate and cast a spell on visitors. My first family holiday in New Zealand was after I’d been here three months. My mum came over from the UK for a holiday and we travelled from Auckland to Wellington, crossed the Cook Strait, then toured around the South Island. We ticked off a lot in two weeks — the Coastal Pacific and Tranz Alpine rail journeys, a walk on Franz Josef Glacier, a day trip to Milford Sound and a bungy jump in Queenstown (for me, not my mum. Although never let age hold you back . . . ). Where is your favourite off the beaten track spot in NZ to get away from it all? Last year I walked the Routeburn Track with Ultimate Hikes and I was astounded by the sheer natural beauty surrounding me on such an epic scale. We had the most perfect weather — blue skies, unseasonably warm, no rain — which our guides assured us was quite unusual. The second day’s walk from the Lake Mackenzie Hut to the Routeburn Falls Hut brought some of the

Travel editor Stephanie Holmes at the top of Conical Hill on the Routeburn Track. Photo / Supplied

most spectacular scenery I have ever laid eyes on — the view from Harris Saddle, looking out across the Hollyford Valley and the mountains beyond was as close as I have ever come to a spiritual experience. The best thing? Absolutely no cellphone signal. No emails, calls, texts, social media pings . . . just me, the mountains, the sound of native birds

HOT DEALS Great prices on Kiwi holidays UNPLUG & UNWIND Amazing glamping getaways GO WELL, SAFELY How to protect yourself and New Zealand WAITING AND WONDERFUL Where to hike, bike, surf, ski and camp BACK IN THE SADDLE A horse riding adventure in Glenorchy GET OUT OF TOWN An epic road trip from Auckland to Stewart Island AOTEAROA ADVENTURES Elisabeth Easther on the Coromandel Coastal Walkway

and tramping boots traversing the track. The sense of calm I gained over those three days was transformative. If you were heading on a family getaway now, where would you go? My household consists of me, my boyfriend and our foster dog, Nina. I’m dying for the three of us to go and stay at one of Canopy Camping’s dogfriendly glamping properties. Tuki Tuki Valley in Hawke’s Bay looks to be exactly what I’m longing for in a post-lockdown winter escape — wideopen spaces, outdoor fire pit — and easy access to the region’s best wineries. If it was an extended family getaway, I’d love to take the whānau to Queenstown where there’s something for everyone — plenty of activities for the nieces and nephews, plenty of wineries and good food for the grown-ups. What’s your dream NZ road trip? I’ve done a couple of campervan trips in the past few years — Auckland to Napier via Whakatane and the East Cape; and Auckland to Taranaki, calling at Waitomo, Raglan, Whangamomona and more — both of which I thoroughly enjoyed. This year, I’d love to take a car over to Great Barrier for a road trip or head south from Christchurch and visit Akaroa, Timaru, and Ōamaru before ending up in Dunedin. And if we can call a cycling holiday a road trip, then I’m also up for the Otago Rail Trail . . . or any of the country’s excellent cycle trails, for that matter. If you could choose one ultimate dream holiday in Aotearoa, where would it be? Consecutive two-night stays in all the luxury lodges of New Zealand, where I’d have daily spa treatments, go on long, scenic walks and eat and drink to my heart’s content. My phone would be firmly switched off . . . it’s impossible to take calls when your hands are full of canapes and champagne.

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GO NZ: Holidays at home

Hot Deals GREAT SIGHTS, GREAT EATS

WĀNAKA WITHIN TENT Head to Wānaka for the ultimate friends or family winter staycation. The Camp at Lake Hāwea is the perfect location to create new memories together. Enjoy the quintessential Kiwi camping experience, with added luxuries like king beds, linen, heaters and electric blankets, and a food truck serving barista coffee, breakfast, lunch and dinner. Book out the five Denver tents (sleeping 10 adults, 2 in each tent) for $500 per night, a 40 per cent saving off the normal rate. Available Friday to Monday. Or, head to the Safari Tent at Hideaway Bay, a haven for those seeking a little more privacy and the ultimate romantic night away. Book for $150 per night for two adults — usually $199. The Safari Tent can also sleep two children at no extra charge. See thecamp.co.nz/packages for more information and to book, or contact reservations@thecamp.co.nz

Take in the epic sunsets from your cosy beachside pod overlooking Kikowhakarere Bay, north of Coromandel Town at the Shelly Beach Top 10 glamping pods. The site is in a prime location — close to the Coromandel Walkway, a short drive from Coromandel Town for a seafood platter at Coromandel Oyster Company, and it’s in the Coro Eats delivery zone for pod evening dining. Book direct and stay before the end of July for $99 per night for two adults (normally $145. Top 10 members receive an extra 10 per cent discount.) shellybeachcoromandel.co.nz/glampingpods

FOLLOW THE SUN Enjoy a vacation at Nelson’s Rabbit Island Huts and save 15 per cent on accommodation. The property is set on 10ha of Waimea Plains land with 360-degree views of the Mt Arthur ranges, Richmond Hills and the Waimea Estuary. Watch the sun rise in the east and set in the west, a peaceful, tranquil property set in a natural environment. The huts were built in 2018, with sustainability in mind — locally sourced and milled timber, eco paints and stains, and 98 per cent plastic-free. Huts have en suites, queen beds, fridge, and tea and coffee making facilities. Use promo code ILOVENEWZEALAND when booking to secure this offer. Bookings can be made over the phone (027 663 2639), via email or via their website. Offer expires August 30 for direct bookings only, subject to availability. applebyhouse.co.nz/rabbit-island-huts

EFFORTLESS ABEL TASMAN

ROCK R OCK ON AT PUNAKAIKI Get away from it all at the Punakaiki Beach Camp, just 1km north of Pancake Rocks, and adjoining the Paparoa National Park on the stunning West Coast. The area boasts beautiful limestone gorges, rugged beaches, bush walks, tramping and fishing. The Findlays have lived in the area most their lives, and have been running the camp since 2013 so are full of knowledge. Powered and non-powered sites at the Punakaiki Beach Camp are surrounded by native bush, have incredible views of the impressive limestone cliffs that look down on the camp, and are less than a minute’s walk down to the beach. All sites include hot showers and use of kitchen facilities. Book a riverside cabin and save 30 per cent. Doubles and quads also available. Book on the website using the promo code Riverside Cabin Promo. Valid until September 30. punakaikibeachcamp.co.nz/book-now

Want to feel like you’re getting back to nature but don’t want to actually put up a tent? Spend three days with Abel Tasman Guides and they will show you how to put the Glamour in Glamping. Your camp hosts will have everything ready when you arrive and will prepare gourmet meals each evening. Enjoy sleeping among the wonderful natural surroundings and be woken by the dawn chorus of native birdlife. Experience the Abel Tasman Coastal Track over three days at your own pace, and guides will provide all the information and logistics services that you will need — customised itineraries that include critical tidal crossing timings, transportation to the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, accommodation bookings and luggage transfers. Notes, including tide times, maps and advice on what to bring and when to walk will also be provided. The three-day glamping trip is priced at $742.50pp as a special offer for Travel readers (normally $825pp). Book by June 30 at abeltasmanguides.co.nz/glamping and mention Travel Go NZ in the booking inquiry form.

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GO NZ: Glamping

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h the great outdoors. There’s nothing like being at one with nature when, for a moment in time there, we were all very much stuck being at one with our own homes, and truly little else. Glamping is what we all need right now; the chance to be outside, enjoying the fresh air and beauty New Zealand has to offer — without being chumps, roughing it on a lumpy airbed. A clever term combining camping and glamour — or glamorous camping — glamping has all the fun and excitement of that classic Kiwi getaway, but with the added extras you’d usually find in 5-star luxury; the finest bedding, extravagant outdoor baths set for star-gazing, a cheeky vino next to a raging fire pit and beyond that, views unlike any other on the planet. Glamping is a booming industry, so here are some of the country’s amazing spots where someone else has set up camp for you.

COMMUNAL GLAMPING The Camp, Lake Hawea We’ve all been there. You’re hanging out with some friends, and suddenly someone throws out the idea of a group camping trip and everyone gets far too enthusiastic. Then, you wake up the next morning, full of regret because, while you love your friends, you would never voluntarily sleep on the dirt as a way to spend time with them, let alone call that a “holiday”. The Camp, perched on the edge of Lake Hawea, about a 20-minute drive from Wanaka, might be the answer. With three glamping options — ranging from “villages” of bell and Denver tents, through to a standalone safari tent — this is the perfect option when you want to rough it with your mates, but actually don’t want to rough it whatsoever and would much prefer to sleep in a queen-size bed with an electric blanket than on the ground. Each of the villages have access to a shared kitchen with basic cooking facilities,

Clockwise from inset top: The Camp at Lake Hawea; The Terraces Waiheke; Canopy Camping’s Birds Eye View lodge in Timaru (main); Te Pamu Escape in Wairarapa. Photos / Supplied; Lydia Menard

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UNPLUG UNWIND

Forget lumpy airbeds or leaky tents, these glamping options take outdoor getaways to another level, writes Bridget Jones there’s a fire pit for singing Exponents classics, and the tents come with charging stations for the essentials. WHERE: 1208 Lake Hawea-Makarora Rd, Lake Hawea, Wanaka PRICE: See Hot Deals on p4 for the latest offers for couple and group bookings. CONTACT: thecamp.co.nz BYO-HORSE GLAMPING Te Pamu Escape, Masterton If a holiday isn’t a holiday unless you can take your equine friend along for the ride, this rural home-away-from-home is for you. Yes, for a small price your horse can have its own glamping experience and the two of you can ride the farm together. But if two legs are more your thing, this luxury rural escape will have you putting your feet up before you even unpack. With a full bathroom (yes, flushing toilet and hot showers) a full kitchen (yes, mixing bowls and a sink) and breakfast thrown in for good measure (you can even pay extra for a cheese platter), all you’ll have to worry about is how much bubble bath to put in the outdoor tub. WHERE: 317 Te Ore Ore Bideford Rd, Masterton PRICE: From $295 per night CONTACT: tepamuescape.co.nz

ISLAND GETAWAY The Terraces, Waiheke Just 40 minutes from the hustle and bustle of Auckland CBD, Waiheke Island is a literal microclimate, full of sun, sand, and sauvignon blanc. And with Waiheke’s wineries just a stone’s throw away, and the beach almost on your doorstep, if you were ever going to explore the island, why not do it from a rather lovely tent like the ones on offer here, overlooking Palm Beach. Think big beds and even bigger views (with a coffee machine to boot). Set among 500 olive trees, The Terraces will also soon be selling the fruits of their labour as they start production on their very own range of olive oil, so you can remember your trip every time you make a salad dressing. WHERE: 57 Junction Rd, Palm Beach, Waiheke Island PRICE: From $200 per night CONTACT: theterraceswaiheke.co.nz THE ONE-STOP-SHOP Canopy Camping, nationwide Started by two friends who wanted to find somewhere to escape to with their families, this collection of glamping options dotted all around the country is a one-stop shop for holidaymakers. The website is fully curated, and options span the gamut from super-luxurious through to

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rustic options, all with a bit of magic. Whether you want to get away to a totara tree tent in Waiuku, a Hobbit-like fairy tale sleepover in Matamata, a futuristic dome in Taupo, or travel back in time for a riverside tent experience in Hokitika’s native bush, the options are endless. You can find camps that are dog, child, or horsefriendly, and those that are perfect for a winter escape. Most of Canopy Camping’s escapes don’t have easy Wi-Fi or phone reception, so it’s the perfect time to unplug and relax. WHERE: Nationwide PRICE: Various CONTACT: canopycamping.co.nz ROOM WITH A VIEW Te Wepu, Banks Peninsula It would be hard to beat this for a bathtub vista. Three timberlined, solar-powered pods (yes, you can charge your phone) are snuggled into the hills of this 157-year-old cattle farm, each looking out over Akaroa Harbour, Onawe Peninsula and French Farm Valley. If you time it right, that woodfired hot tub will be bubbling away just as you arrive, either by 4WD or via a 30-minute walk up the farm’s hiking track. And along with room to soak, each pod comes with a separate pod housing an ecofriendly toilet, changing area, robes and towels, and there’s also a gas barbecue, fresh spring water and a light breakfast on offer. But if you don’t want to lug your own supplies to your pod, owner Kate can deliver you a heaving hamper of local produce, meat from the working farm, cheeses, and homemade bread. WHERE: 250 Wainui Main Rd, Akaroa PRICE: From $325 per night (two night minimum) CONTACT: tewepu.co.nz LUXURY, BUT MAKE IT A TENT Waitomo Hilltop Glamping, Waikato By now, we all know glamping is, by its very name, glamorous camping.

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And it’s hard to see it getting more luxe than this. With 360-degree views of the Waikato countryside, Waitomo Hilltop Glamping is a getaway in a tent — but with all the luxuries of a high-end hotel. Think dual outdoor bathtubs, a fully equipped en suite (with twin basins so you can even social distance from your partner) a range of eco toiletries, glorious bedding, Egyptian towels, and you are within spitting distance of Mother Nature herself. Tuck into the fresh farm eggs left in your kitchen, or whip up a pizza in the outdoor pizza oven, and then enjoy some fire-toasted marshmallows from the complimentary s’mores kit. Being off the grid does mean you won’t be able to charge your devices — but maybe, with those views, that’s not a bad thing. WHERE: 485 Mangarino Rd, Hangatiki, Waitomo PRICE: $410 per night CONTACT: waitomoglamping.nz CUTE AS A BUNNY Rabbit Island Huts at Appleby House, Mapua Close to Nelson, this collection of glamorous wee huts is too adorable to ignore. Described as a little bit hotel, a little bit glamping and a little bit traditional Kiwi camping experience, they hold little more than a bed (and TV in a couple of cases) — but who cares? Though tiny, they are perfectly formed and environmentally sound, have been locally milled and built from fallen trees, using only organic oils and paints and the rural property, which also has a five-bedroom holiday home and fullydecked out safari canvas tent to rent, is 98 per cent plastic-free. Half the huts have en suites (the others share a couple of high-end bathrooms), alongside big comfy beds and tea and coffee-making facilities,

and there’s a shared kitchen and lounge area — and even a little library in an old caravan on site. WHERE: 305 Redwood Rd, Rabbit Island PRICE: See Hot Deals on p4 for a special offer. CONTACT: applebyhouse.co.nz/rabbit-island-huts

Te Wepu glamping getaway (top); Waitomo Hilltop Glamping (left); Rabbit Island glamping (above). Photos / Supplied

BOXING CLEVER Purepods, Canterbury No further than two-and-a-half hours from Christchurch, all hidden in remote locations, sit six weirdly wonderful little glass boxes. Purepods are the ultimate in being at-one with nature; made completely of glass, there is absolutely no privacy in these remote hotel rooms — but then again, you don’t really need to worry because you are in the middle of absolutely nowhere. Whether it’s high above the ocean or deep in native bush, each of these glass cabins is accessed on foot (although some have alternative routes for those with mobility issues), which means they have been carefully placed to escape light pollution (and civilisation). At night, watching the stars through the glass ceiling is unlike anything you’ve seen before. There is a full bathroom, some pods have telescopes and board games, and you can choose to bring your own food and drinks or pre-order a breakfast and dinner package to cook over the gas hob. But you might as well leave your phone in the car — coverage verges on non-existent. WHERE: Across the Canterbury region PRICE: $590 per night CONTACT: purepods.com

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GO NZ: Adventure

Go well, safely Juliette Sivertsen discovers ways you can stay safe when venturing off the beaten track

emember that time we all had to stay at home because of a global pandemic? After weeks of hunkering down at home, and with overseas winter escapes now off the cards, many Kiwis are looking to head off the beaten track and tick off a few hot spots on their New Zealand wish list. And so we should. New Zealand is a world-class destination. Tourists come here to hike our national parks, to bike our trails, to swim and kayak our seas, to ski our mountains and generally spend a lot of money on the experiences that many New Zealanders tend to take for granted. Now it’s our turn to get in on the action. And while it’s our own country, and we may like to assume we know it better than any foreigner, statistics suggest our gung-ho DIY attitudes to our great outdoors are putting us at risk. In a 2018 Mountain Safety Council report, figures revealed 68 per cent of trampers involved in search-and-rescue missions were New Zealanders. Of the 57 trampers who died in the 10 years to 2017, 32 were Kiwis. The important takeaway from that report: proper planning is key to reducing those incidents in future. Here’s how to keep safe while travelling around New Zealand. Use a trip planning tool Prior to lockdown, we were still enjoying daylight saving and the mild late-summer days. After a couple of months of staying mostly inside, our

introduction into the cooler months has been a bit more abrupt. Now the nights are cold, the days shorter and weather systems less predictable. The Mountain Safety Council has a trip planning tool on its website — mountainsafety.org. nz/plan-my-trip — which helps inform you of what you need to consider for whatever activity you might be doing: day walks, back-country snowsports, mountain biking, hunting, multiday hikes and mountaineering. Don’t be too proud or cocky to ask for advice. Make the most of local knowledge and expertise by asking the staff in DoC information visitor centres or those working in outdoor retail shops for advice. Check your fitness Not all of us have kept up on-demand fitness classes or live streams during lockdown. For some of us, the most amount of exercise in recent weeks might have been a few laps around the neighbourhood. Check your own fitness levels, and also that of your companions, and work within your current limits, not the limits you might have had at the start of the year after an active summer. Don’t let the sun chase you down Always take extra warm layers, regardless of how short a walk or activity might be. Carry a head torch everywhere, and hit the road or the tracks early in the day so you can finish early before darkness falls. At this time of year, once the sun has gone down, the temperatures drop dramatically.

Roys Peak, Wanaka. Photo / Aaron Sebastian

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#2 NORTHLAND HERITAGE TOUR Discover New Zealand’s early history. 4 days/3 nights from just $1,290. Includes Kauri Museum, “Tane Mahuta”, Hokianga, Opononi, Rawene, Te Waimate, Kerikeri Stone Store and Kemp House, Waitangi Treaty Grounds tour and museums, cultural performance, Russell, Pompallier House, Ruapekapeka pa and battle site, Claphams Clocks. Marsden Point. Depart ﬁrst monday every month

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New Zealand Tours • Phone 0800 309 196 • www.nztours.nz • steve@nztours.nz

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If you’re from the North Island and have never travelled to the South Island, prepare yourself for the alpine climate and mountainous terrain. It’s a different type of cold to the north, and it catches out many people. Don’t forget about social distancing If you’re planning on staying in communal accommodation on your trip, such as a DoC hut, don’t forget about social distancing rules. There’s much less capacity in many huts around the country now and you won’t be able to cram in on the floor like you might have been able to in the past. Take a tent with you as a backup option if there’s no room. Keep social distancing front of mind in all communal spaces such as ski lodges and motor camps, which have shared kitchen, dining and bathroom spaces. Be clean and considerate Coronavirus isn’t the only bug that can spread. The last thing anyone wants on their holiday is to be a hit by some kind of gastro bug while exploring the outdoors. A norovirus outbreak spread through the Nelson Lakes National Park in 2017, ruining dozens of trampers’ trips. You know the rules of 2020 — if you’re sick, stay home. Don’t forget to bring your own cleaning equipment and hand sanitiser with you and make sure surfaces and equipment are wiped clean before and after every use. Keep nature safe Look after yourself, look after New Zealand. Plastic pollution, kauri dieback and the invasive algae didymo are still major environmental concerns. Make use of the shoe-cleaning stations at the entrance and exits of parks to ensure you’re not treading in diseases which can affect our beautiful native plants. Didymo is spread by humans moving items between waterways, so keep equipment and boats in one waterway where possible. Regardless of where you might be travelling to in New Zealand, be sure that anything you carry into an area comes back out with you. The number one rule of protecting our environment — take only photos, leave only footprints. For more information, head to: mountainsafety.org.nz/plan-my-trip fishandgame.org.nz/environment/

ALL TRAILS GREAT AND SMALL Now’s the time to dust off your walking shoes, writes Thomas Bywater

ast year I spoke with a journalist from New York who had flown in to walk the Paparoa Track, New Zealand’s newest trail. What impressed him most was the scale of the project. There simply wasn’t another country he’d visited that took so much pride in making its outdoors accessible. Twenty-five years in the making, this 56km memorial hike was the toast of international tourism. But “Great Walk number 10” is just one of our country’s many national hikes. By the Department of Conservation’s own count there are more than 1000 trails across conservation land, any of which could be considered a “great”, given the right conditions and footwear. Undeniably, this is the time to bag a Great Walk. The Routeburn or the Tongariro will be almost without crowds. But when DoC opens its huts for booking this month, it will also be a chance to visit some of the less-well-trodden parts of the country. Plan your route, tread lightly and travel well. OFF THE BEATEN PATH Te Paki Coastal Trail This three-day trail of the “winterless north” is the perfect all-year-round hike. From Spirits Bay campsite to the surreal dunes of Ninety Mile Beach, the coastal track follows the very northern tip of the country. Passing Cape Reinga (Te Rerenga Wairua) and the lighthouse, it visits some of the most spiritually significant sites in New Zealand. It is said to be the point where souls depart the country for the afterlife, but don’t put off a trip to the cape until then. Real Far North Tours provide shuttles and advice for hikers taking on this Kiwi pilgrimage. realfarnorthtours.co.nz Mt Tarawera Rotorua’s split mountain is a comfortable day hike at the heart of the thermal North Island. An eruption in 1886 altered the shape of the mountain and surrounding country, burying villages. The five-hour trip to the now dormant crater is a reminder of the dramatic and fiery forces that built New Zealand. Kaitiaki Tours run guided hikes to the crater, with members of the Rangitihi Iwi, the kaitiaki (guardians) of the site. kaitiaki.co.nz Mt Taranaki The unique focal point of the region, the circular perimeter of Mt Taranaki is recognisable from space. On a (rare) clear day your hike will be rewarded with views back down the almost perfectly geometric cone. It’s unlike anything else in New Zealand — or possibly the planet. The summit is a steep and challenging hike. Difficult but achievable, you should leave a

10-hour window for an ascent and attempt it only in good conditions. February to April offers the best weather for a day hike. However, there are other shorter or multi-day routes and huts around the side of this spectacular volcano, open all year round. Taranaki Tours provide guided hikes, advice and a useful shuttle between New Plymouth and the mountain. taranakitours.com THE GREATS Routeburn Track The route (above left) that launched 1000 blockbusters. The beech-lined journey from Paradise and the River Dart into the Routeburn valley is one of the most scenic and a favourite with international tourists, possibly because it is set against the snowy backdrops recognisable from the films of Peter Jackson and countless spin-offs. Split into three days and two nights, Ultimate Hikes is the only operator running guided multi-day tours. Otherwise DoC accommodation is open for you to start planning your own epic from June 10. ultimatehikes.co.nz Abel Tasman Coastal Track The most popular of the “great 10”, this could be the golden opportunity to take on the 60km track of crystal-clear waters and sandy beaches (left). At the subtropical north of the South Island, the coastal route is a top spot for sea kayakers and hikers alike. Abel Tasman Guides run tours and transport options for independent groups — including options to mix hiking and kayaking legs along the route. For those wanting to hike specific sections, sea shuttles run up to four times a day, linking points between Totaranui and Marahau. Accommodation options on the 3-5 day route include four huts and 18 campsites, which must be booked in advance. Don’t forget your swimming togs. abeltasmanguides.co.nz Paparoa Trail After some last-minute repairs, New Zealand’s newest great walk (left) finally opened on March 1. The route runs from Blackball to Pororari on the wild West Coast. Open from October until June, the fact there have been so many delays to the Pike River memorial route is testament to the challenging conditions — even during open season. It’s exhilaratingly open to the elements. Punakaiki Beach Camp run a daily shuttle service from Punakaiki to the trailhead at Smoke-ho. Trail accommodation is only available through DoC with three huts along the route, bookable from June 10. paparoagreatwalk.co.nz For more great hikes, see p10-p11

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10 | Tuesday, June 2, 2020

GO NZ: Adventure

Tuesday, June 2, 2020 | 11

It’s waiting and wonderful Whether it’s surfing, hiking, camping, cycling or skiing on your adventure tourism hit-list, here’s where to have an unforgettable experience in New Zealand, writes Johanna Thornton

WHERE TO CYCLE Te Ara Ahi, Rotorua Explore Rotorua by bike, it’s an area rich with volcanic attractions including mud pools, geysers and steaming vents. The Te Ara Ahi cycle track is an easy one or two-day ride that takes in five of the area’s geothermal parks: Whakarewarewa, Waimangu (reopening soon), Te Puia, Wai-Ō-Tapu and Waikite Valley Thermal Springs, beginning in the centre of Rotorua. The bike ride also stops at Māori cultural sites, the Lake Ōkaro wetland, Rainbow Mountain, and Redwoods Mountain Bike Park — a mountain biker’s paradise. Redwoods is home to one of New Zealand’s oldest mountain biking networks, with a series of trails catering for all levers of rider, with well-graded trails depending on ability, from beginner to extreme.

days or do a day trip from Ross, Greymouth, Hokitika or another point along the way. The easyintermediate trip is notable for its smooth trails and easy accessibility. Plan your trip and accommodation through westcoastwildernesstrail.co.nz.

Queen Charlotte Track, Marlborough The Marlborough Sounds is one of New Zealand’s most famous waterways and The Queen Charlotte Track provides stunning access to its bays and ridgelines. A two-to-three-day intermediate-toadvanced cycle over 72km takes riders from historic Ship Cove in the outer Sounds down the ridgeline to Anakiwa with glorious views along the way. There’s access to the track from many of the most popular bays in Queen Charlotte Sounds if the full three-day ride is too much of an adventure, with campsites, motels and adventure activities peppered along the way. This is a ride that needs reasonable fitness and is best planned in advance. The first section of the trail closed in peak season.

WHERE TO HIKE Coromandel Coast An adventurer’s dream, the Coromandel has pristine golden beaches great for fishing, surfing, camping and tramping. The remote northern end of the peninsula is home to the Coromandel Coastal Walkway, which traverses the coastline between Stony and Fletcher Bays. Following an old bridle path formed by early pioneers, this half-day hike encapsulates the scenery Coromandel is famous for — incredible beaches, views to Great Barrier and Cuvier islands in the Pacific Ocean, lush greenery and remote farmland. Begin the walk at either Fletcher Bay (which has a fantastic DoC campground that’s worth a stay) or Stony Bay Campground, both located north of Colville. There are transport and guides available through Coromandel Discovery, which offer a minibus ride from Coromandel, a local guide and afternoon tea. The shuttle is currently priced at $99pp for adults (normally $117), and $40pp for children (0-15, normally $45). To read Elisabeth Easther’s story of walking the Coromandel Coastal Walkway, see p18.

Wilderness Trail, West Coast On the rugged West coast of the South Island is an unforgettable bike trail that ventures through ancient rainforests, rivers, lakes and wetlands. The Wilderness Trail is a four-day cycle along old tram lines, through gold-mining towns and across historic bridges from the Southern Alps to the Tasman Sea. Do all four

Kahurangi Regional Park, Nelson The second largest of New Zealand’s 13 national parks, Kahurangi in the northwest of the South Island means “treasured possession” in Māori and this accurately describes its majestic scenery. It’s home to one of New Zealand’s Great Walks, the Heaphy Track, which passes through forest, riverbeds and mountain

ridges. Less well-known is the 85km Old Ghost Road, a five-day, four-night hike following an old gold miners’ road connecting the Lyell (Upper Buller Gorge) to the Mōkihinui River in the north. Expect native forest, tussock, river flats and aweinspiring valleys on this challenging alpine tramp. Hikers can choose to do an overnight return trip to one of the first huts at either end of the trail, with accommodation available through oldghostrd.org.nz. Fiordland National Park The remarkable scenery in the southwest corner of the South Island is marked by 14 fiords hewn into steep-sided valleys with tumbling waterfalls, granite peaks and glittering lakes. Home to Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound, the area offers some of New Zealand’s most beautiful natural scenes. The National Park has several not-to-bemissed multi-day hikes, including the Routeburn Track (partially reopened after flooding earlier this year), Kepler Track and the Gertrude Saddle day trek. For more great walks, see p8-p9. WHERE TO SURF Shipwreck Bay, Ahipara At Ahipara on the southern end of Ninety Mile Beach in Northland visitors are guaranteed waves, as well as dazzling sunsets and unspoiled sandy beaches. One of New Zealand’s most renowned surf spots, Shipwreck Bay or “Shippies” has two worldclass surf breaks to offer. The Wreck has classic left-hand waves that break over sand, and Peaks to the west is a legendary break accessible by foot or four-wheel-drive with long, perfect righthanders when the conditions play ball. To get there, surfers need to paddle over rocks or launch from the rocks, so best left to the experienced.

Ōakura Beach, New Plymouth Taranaki has a concentration of epic surf breaks up and down the coastline, and is an outdoor enthusiast’s playground with mountainous terrain, rivers, forests and rugged beaches to explore. Ōakura is the place to start if it’s lessons you’re after, with Tarawave Surf School offering lessons (summer months only) and the Surf Life Saving Club patrolling weekends and summer holidays. Brush up on your skills at this typical beach break and head to neighbouring breaks Ahu Ahu Rd and Weld Rd for more great waves for surfers of all levels, with Weld ideal for longboarding. Makorori Beach, Gisborne Makorori Bay offers a variety of surf breaks and an area rife with history and beauty. The eastern cape of the North Island is breathtaking yet relatively undiscovered, meaning surf spots aren’t crowded. At the southern end of Makorori Bay, find a right-point break producing a long peeling wave over reef, a fun spot for longboarding when waves are on the smaller side. Further north are breaks called Centre, Red Bus and Creeks, which are tricky to access at low tide but offer peaky lefts for those who attempt the paddle. Take a stroll along the Makorori headland for amazing views of the surf, Wainui Beach and Māhia Peninsula. WHERE TO SKI Whakapapa and Tūroa, Mt Ruapehu The South Island dominates when it comes to world-class skiing, but Mt Ruapehu in the North Island holds its own. Celebrated as New Zealand’s largest ski field, Whakapapa is one of two ski fields on the mountain known for its family-friendly ski area. The Happy Valley beginner’s slope is usually teeming with mini skiers. Tūroa on the southwestern slopes has the longest vertical run in New Zealand and a range of terrain parks including halfpipe style bowls and smooth, wide trails. Both ski fields’ location on the highest mountain in the

North Island means they’re exposed to the elements and enjoyment depends on the weather. Keep an eye on the conditions, especially for Tūroa, and if it’s a no-ski or snowboard day, Ohakune has great mountain biking.

site operating on a first-come, first-served system at what can be a popular spot in peak season. This campground has it all — swimming, fishing and walking (the bay forms part of the Cape Reinga Coastal Walkway). Spirit’s Bay is situated in Te Paki Recreational Park, one of the most diverse eco-systems in New Zealand, so there’s plenty of natural beauty to discover in this otherworldly location.

Cardrona, Wānaka Set among the spectacular mountainous range between Wānaka and Queenstown, Cardrona ski field is great for families, ideal for beginners, has a well-equipped terrain park and has plenty to offer advanced riders with offpiste areas and consistent snow. Well-maintained Cardrona is an all-rounder with easy access. Visitors to Cardrona Ski Resort can stay in either Queenstown or Wānaka, making the most of this beautiful part of New Zealand, and Treble Cone isn’t far away for those who wish to flex their skiing skills. Craigieburn & Mount Hutt, Canterbury The Southern Alps features a range of slopes, with Craigieburn Valley between Springfield and Arthur’s Pass the favourite of advanced skiers, revered for its varied and challenging terrain, hidden gems and lack of crowds. Craigieburn Valley Ski Area is only open to members and guests in 2020 but there are loads of guided ski tours that cover the Craigieburn area, such as the Snow Explorer tour, which takes in “New Zealand’s bestkept secrets” Porters; Broken River; Mt Olympus/ Temple Basin and Craigieburn. Mt Hutt, closer to Methven, is a larger commercial field with primo powder, its altitude equating to a reliable dumping of snow over its 41 runs and four terrain parks. WHERE TO CAMP Spirit’s Bay, Northland At the northernmost tip of the country, north of Kaitaia, is Spirit’s Bay, a beautiful secluded beach with a magical campground. Kapowairua (Spirits Bay) Campground is a Department of Conservation

Clockwise from main: Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve; Cycling in Rotorua; the Coromandel Coastal Walkway; Makorori Beach; Ruapehu ski fields. Photos / Miles Holden; Destination Rotorua; supplied

Harataonga Bay, Great Barrier Island Harataonga Bay on the east coast of Great Barrier Island/Aotea is an incredible spot for camping, flanked by two streams and sheltered by mature trees. The campground here is a DoC site at an epic white-sand beach that’s ideal for swimming and snorkelling, and even surfing when there’s swell. The campground is on the Harataonga Coastal Walkway, which is worth a trek. The island is accessible from Auckland via passenger and car ferry to Tryphena or Port FitzRoy, or by air. Lake Tekapo, Mackenzie Basin Tekapo is famous for lupin-covered fields, stunning alpine peaks and a shimmering turquoise lake. A small settlement three hours southwest from Christchurch, this picturesque location consistently attracts visitors keen to get up close to its beauty. Stay at the Lake Tekapo Holiday Park and make the most of the activities on offer — alpine hikes, horse treks, four-wheel-drive tours or boating. There’s another reason it’s special though — it’s located in the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve, the largest dark sky reserve in the Southern Hemisphere, making it one of the best spots in the world for stargazing. Join a night tour at the Mount John Observatory, or drag your mattress out of your tent to gaze up at the stars. For more New Zealand travel tips, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

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12 | Tuesday, June 2, 2020

GO NZ: Central Otago

saddle Back in the

Ginny Fisher and a gang of horse-loving girlfriends trek through high country on an adventure in the backblocks of Glenorchy

e meet at the Clevedon pub with wide grins and overstuffed suitcases — impractically bulbous for our three-night escape to Queenstown. Seven friends glad to be departing the green fields of Clevedon for Glenorchy’s ochre plains. What brings our group together is a love of horses, and of rosé and raucous conversation. We have signed up for a day trek, deep into Glenorchy’s backcountry, where the silver threads of the Rees River snake through endless rockscapes. I remember my first pony like yesterday, ingrained in my mind like a fading polaroid picture. A pint-sized gelding named Tonka. He was a cheeky Arabian with a personality much larger than his 12 hands. I rode him with bare feet and corduroy stubbies cut to the ankle, and a jagged blond fringe to match my pony’s mane, which I regularly butchered with Mum’s kitchen scissors. I was no pony-club girl, just a ragamuffin from the Manawatū obsessed with ponies. I’d follow my father on his mustering beat on my little steed, trailing his big bay horse, and later when I was a teen, I’d escape my household full of boisterous brothers to ride for hours over our hill country farm where all I could hear was the sound of rustling grasses and the chatter of birds. Now 30 years later, here I am surveying the herd at High Country Horses with six other horse-mad mothers. This locally owned trekking operation is run out of the Glenorchy basin, just under an hour by car from Queenstown. The horses wait lazily in the sun, ignoring the throngs of riders who arrive by minivan. They are suitable breeds for country trekking, sturdier types like Quarter Horses, Clydesdale and Arab crosses and New Zealand station breds. They have names like Kumera, Kale, Spud, Rusty, Dusty, Beau and Spike. There are greys and bays, chestnuts and duns. They have been bred for navigating giant rocks and stony mountain trails with their sure footing and sensible demeanours.

We meet our guide, Bijmin, a spritely young man from South Africa, who has made a life from trail riding the world over, and is just about to embark on a year-long trip with his girlfriend to explore New Zealand. “I’d like you to introduce yourselves and share with the group your riding experience — in all honesty,” he adds with a wry smile under his Akubra hat. We are all at different levels, but have placed ourselves in the experienced category to avoid a dull day plodding. We depart home base in a long line, rump to rump and head into the caramelcoloured grasses that line the Rees River for our first trot. The horses feel fresh. I let my horse, Kumera, stride it out — he’s a sweet, small Clydesdalecross who doesn’t mind me dropping the reins mid trek to snap pictures. We reach our first river crossing and Bijmin heads out to test the waters. “I’m looking for quick sand, that’s the stuff you don’t want to get caught in,” he warns. We all exchange a grimace. Fortunately for us, there’s been little rain lately and the rivers are running low and shallow making the crossings less treacherous. We wade through and Kumera stops now and then to paw the water with his hoof and take a few sips of the icy snow-fed water. We weave back and forth over river beds and make our way back to the lowlands of Rees Valley Station — a magnificent 18,000ha sheepand-cattle station encompassing river beds, grassy plains, beech forests and plateaus, and home to about 5000 merino sheep — all still hand shorn. The station has been owned by the Scott family since 1905, and is currently run by mother and daughter team, Iris and Kate. We ride past the snowy gateway to the Milford

Glenorchy is less than an hour's drive from Queenstown. Photo / Destination Queenstown

Track far to the east and see Lover’s Leap ahead — a scar-like slip that drops violently down one side of the mountain. Lover’s Leap is a toponym given to similar topographic places around the world — there’s also one in Sandymount, Otago, and one in Virginia, plus many more in the States and nearly all are linked to legends of romantic tragedy. In this case, Bijmin says two young lovers from the local iwi couldn’t be together so they leapt off the precipice and the slip is the mountain weeping for their lost love. By lunch we reach an elevation point on a grassy plain that borders the beech forest. The horses are tethered in the shade while we stretch out and gobble up our homemade sandwiches and shortbread biscuits. Laura polishes off her port and takes a quick nap. The sun is beating down and the mountain ranges shimmer in the distance. Life is good. The afternoon beech forest section of the ride is shady, cool, and mossy. Small waterfalls trickle alongside the undulating track. Some of the horses ram into one another, finding it hard to stay in line down the steep descents. We finally reach the river bed and exit the forest and the horses feel less edgy in the bright sun and open space. Bijmin tells us Mission Impossible 4 was filmed at this spot. I can just imagine black helicopters swooping low over this pristine greenish-blue river, Tom Cruise hanging upside down from a rope. By around 3pm, we reach a grassy paddock at the base of a steep track that ascends a hill face. It’s time to notch it up a gear. We are paired off in small groups and told to hoof it up the hill track. Canter, gallop, do whatever it takes

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Tuesday, June 2, 2020 | 13

Horse-trekking adventures take place year-round in Glenorchy; high country on horseback is a great girls' getaway (right). Photos / Miles Holden; Supplied

to get our steeds to speed. I have a suspicion Kumera might run out of steam and I’m right; halfway up he starts to huff and puff. It takes more than a squeeze to get him to the top at a canter. The view is worth the effort — maybe not for Kumera, but I enjoy taking a few snaps of the scene beyond — the river stretched out below, at eye level, rows of sugar-coated peaks and the hazy mountain plains in between. Down the steep track and back across riverbeds, the horses wade through a long narrow stream under a canopy of trees. The sun is dropping and shafts of light illuminate the yellow willow branches. Finally my camera runs out of battery so Kumera gets to amble along with the others while I take this grandscale beauty in. What is it that we love about these animals? I ask my friends later over a rosé. For Laura,

it’s horses’ differing personalities and quirks. “Getting to know each and every one is fun — the good and cheeky.” For Jamel, along with their physical beauty, she loves the fact that horses can take you places cars and planes can’t. Bex enjoys the feeling when the horse loves the canter up the hill as much you do. Jacquie says during her first two decades riding, she’d fall off almost every time she rode. “I’m only slightly better today, but I grab any chance I can to escape the office and take in the sunshine.” Lizzy likes the adrenaline of riding cross-country, grooming horses, and the crazy people you meet in equestrian circles. For me, weirdly enough, it’s that soft part under the nostril that feels like velvet and the scent of a horse that takes me back to the fields of my childhood. As Winston Churchill once said: “There is something about the outside of a horse that is good for the inside of a man.”

South Island

Queenstown

Glenorchy Lake Wakatipu Te Anau

SH6

SH9 4

Checklist

GLENORCHY GETTING THERE High Country Horses offers treks throughout the year for novices to advanced riders. highcountryhorses.nz

14 | Tuesday, June 2, 2020

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Tuesday, June 2, 2020 | 15

GO NZ: Auckland

escapes City

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Aucklanders have an array of beauties on their doorstep, writes Bridget Jones

uckland might be New Zealand’s biggest region with the highest population density and seemingly endless hustle and bustle, but there are still many ways you can get off the beaten track and away from it all. Here are some of our favourite hidden gems around Tāmaki Makaurau:

Staydium Glamping at Eden Park Eden Park is the home of Auckland sport . . . and cutting-edge accommodation. Whether you want to camp out on a game day or feel what it’s like to have a whole stadium to yourself, Staydium Glamping is the newest way to experience Eden Park. These lavishly furnished domes sit high about the turf, meaning on game days you can enjoy the action and then watch the sun go down from your queen bed. Explore the changing rooms and coaches’ box with an exclusive behind-the-scenes look at New Zealand sport.

Clevedon There’s a hidden treasure out in southeast Auckland. With country charm, boutique food and wine offerings, and rich history, Clevedon is a little town with a lot to offer. Pay a visit on a Sunday to take advantage of the rich produce and home-made treats at the Clevedon Farmers’ Market, and then pop into Clevedon Village Market for local arts, crafts, and jewellery. Once you’ve had your shopping fix, there are wineries to explore, Maraetai Beach is great for a walk or spot of fishing, and if you fancy stepping back in time, the McNicol Homestead Museum offers a glimpse into 19th-century New Zealand.

Fullers360 relaunched its Rangitoto Island service for Queen’s Birthday Weekend; Great Barrier Island is made for nature lovers; stock up at Clevedon Farmers’ Market. Photos / Supplied

Rangitoto Island It’s one of Auckland’s most famous landmarks but a recent survey found that almost 40 per cent of Aucklanders have never visited the island. Now’s the time to change that. Fullers360 relaunched its Rangitoto Island service over Queen’s Birthday Weekend, and now runs three services a day. The hike to the crater takes about an hour and offers some of the best views of the city, Hauraki Gulf and islands such as Motuihe, Motutapu, Waiheke and more.

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Te Ara Hura Walkway, Waiheke Waiheke has stunning beaches and blissful wineries, but did you know it also has 100km of walking tracks that allow you to discover the real beauty of the island? On the Te Ara Hura network you can explore the coastline, pass through native bush, and visit historic sites. All the tracks are now connected, crisscrossing the island, so you can start and finish at any point you pick. Just follow the marker posts to stay on track.

Great Barrier Island Whether you’re travelling by sea or air, the Hauraki Gulf’s largest island is worth the trip. Made for nature lovers, Great Barrier has an abundance of walking tracks — and stunning views — as well as beaches aplenty. If the idea of an ocean dip is a bit much at this time of year, the island’s natural hot springs might be more your style. Kaitoke Hot Springs are the only undeveloped natural hot pools in the Auckland region and an easy 80-minute walk. As the sun sets, be sure to look to the heavens. Great Barrier was the first island in the world to receive Dark Sky Sanctuary status, making its sparkling night sky a once-in-a-lifetime treat.

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16 | Tuesday, June 2, 2020

GO NZ: Road Trip

GET OUT OF TOWN What better thing to do on the eve of Y2K than to drive to Stewart Island, writes Maggie Wicks

n a Tuesday about 20 years ago, my brother and I loaded up the boot of my Toyota Corolla and hit the road. It was 1999; the new millennium was a few days away. Our starting point was my flat in Grafton, Auckland. The finish line was Bluff and the boat that would take us to Stewart Island/Rakiura, New Zealand’s third-biggest, and most isolated island.

At the end of 1999, much like in recent history, humanity was stocking up its pantries, filling cellars with canned and dried goods. What would happen at the stroke of midnight on New Year’s Eve? Would Y2K create havoc across the world? Would the millennial bug crash the stock market? My brother and I weren’t bothered, but we decided to get out of town. You know, just in case. It was to be the ultimate road trip. We would drive almost the length of the country, to escape the Big Smoke of Auckland (population 1.1 million) for what is still one of New Zealand’s quietest places. An island which has 50 times

Kaikoura was a pleasant stop on an epic roadtrip from Auckland to Stewart Island. Photo / Graeme Murray

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more kiwi than Kiwis. Human population: circa 408; national birds: circa 20,000. I’m not sure I had been on a road trip before. Maybe I had done a few loops around Northland and the Coromandel as a teenager, on holidays with friends, chasing Garageland and the Exponents from country pub to country pub. But nothing this epic. On the road, I took the first shift. Ten hours, from Auckland to Wellington. This didn’t seem unusual at the time — I guess we were young. Now I would baulk at spending more than two hours behind the wheel. I guess I am old. A bell in the dashboard dinged for every second we drove over 100km/h. We couldn’t

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Tuesday, June 2, 2020 | 17

Sunset in Oban; Rakiura was the ideal place to see in the new year (right). Photos / Getty Images; Matt Crawford

turn it off, so we hovered just under 100 the whole way to Wellington. There, we visited friends in their vast, rundown inner-city villas, tried Indonesian curries for the first time, and drank hot chocolates in the window seat of Midnight Espresso. We drove on to the Interislander. Once safely aboard, my brother confessed his terrible secret: he couldn’t drive a manual. On the other side of the Cook Strait, I made him try, and he bunny-hopped us painfully from Picton through Kaikōura, where we stopped to photograph the seal colonies outside of town, and ate fish and chips on a shingle beach. We stretched our legs walking across the peninsula to Whaler’s Bay, an hour or so along gusty farmland with views to the snow-capped Seaward Kaikōuras behind, and nothing out to sea until you hit Chile. We found a colony of red-billed gulls, and were chased by a dive-bombing oystercatcher. Outside Christchurch, we took a side trip to Akaroa, but the Toyota couldn’t handle the Port Hills, and we spent three hours stranded on a tight corner while we waited for the AA to show up and rescue us.

There were subcultures to be discovered up and down the coast. At the foot of the Southern Alps, near Mt Somers, we met the legendary Peter King, who’s been producing lathe-cut records from his shed for decades. He didn’t know us from a bar of soap, but he happily showed us around, and told us the story of how the Beastie Boys once gave him a yellow Ford Mustang, shipped from the US to Timaru. He never let the truth get in the way of a good story, we learned later. Down the road, in pretty Geraldine, we were invited to stay at the historic Mt Peel Station, where we were put up in a guest house, and rounded up deer on the back of the family ute. We saw the chalk horse of Waimate and fell in love with the Victorian architecture of Ōamaru. It was the roadtrip of a lifetime. We hadn’t even reached Invercargill. But we got there eventually. Just one choppy crossing across Foveaux Strait from Bluff to Oban, and we had arrived. Four days and 1700km later. On Stewart Island, we checked into a hostel, where we listened to Dave Dobbyn tapes in the shared lounge. We bought a takeaway of

muttonbird and chips, and caught a boat to the bird sanctuary of Ulva Island, shushing each other as we crept through the bush. “Shut up, it’s a kiwi, look!”. Reader, it was a weka. And then New Year’s Eve arrived. Rain was scheduled right across New Zealand. In the early evening, we joined the backpackers and lay on the hostel’s trampoline, staring up at the stars, drinking boxed wine. After midnight, we wrapped up warm and headed to the beach. There were six of us — me, my brother, a pair of Israelis and a couple of Germans. We took Turkish coffee, a gas burner and a ghetto blaster. We had blankets around our shoulders and a couple of camping chairs. We stared out to sea, and as the sun rose over Half Moon Bay, we tuned into National Radio. Live from Gisborne, Kiri Te Kanawa was singing Pōkarekare Ana to the dawn, as the new millennium dawned. The rain was torrential that night. It poured down across the whole country. It washed out music festivals, parties and fireworks displays. It rained everywhere, except on Gisborne and Kiri, and Rakiura, me and my brother.

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18 | Tuesday, June 2, 2020

Go NZ: Our Aotearoa Adventures

WRITE of PASSAGE

Walking and cycling in the Coromandel was everything Elisabeth Easther dreamed it would be

t’s commonly believed that travel writers have one of the best jobs on Earth — being sent to exquisite locations on somebody else’s money. But, here’s a little secret, sometimes we’re asked to write about things we’ve never done. I had a gig a while back to write up a bunch of New Zealand’s best walks for an overseas publication, but the budget and timeframe meant I would not do anything more vigorous than Google. However, in writing those walks — talking the walks, but not walking the walks — I was inspired to do about half of them, possibly because I’d made them sound so awesome. But there was one especially delightful ramble that caught my eye, the Coromandel Coastal Walkway, from Stony Bay to Fletcher Bay, a 20km round trip. I was drawn to the walk for many reasons, one of them being that the road to the trailhead was off-limits to rental cars — this hinted at an untamed element. It was also attractive because it was near Te Puru, the small coastal settlement where I spent my earliest holidays and, having described the walk with such enthusiasm, I was inspired to see whether what I’d written matched up to reality. Leaving Auckland on a soggy Friday afternoon, we set a course for the Colville Bay Motel, 199km away, an estimated three hours’ driving. As soon as we joined State Highway 25, longdormant memories flooded back. I thought of the spaceship house at the turnoff to Thames, of Mr Franklin’s shop where we spent our precious pennies, back when one cent

went a long way. The impressive old Kōpū Bridge was still standing, just, with its sentry house where the harbourmaster operated the swing span for boats to pass. I was reminded of carsickness on twisty coastal roads, and catching sprats for our cats in the bait catcher. It was comforting to find my pre-school memories so intact. As rain fell and lengthening shadows turned to darkness, the drive was slow going, but eventually we found our rural digs and, once dinner was served and tidied away, we became aware of the enveloping nature of the countryside. When the skies cleared and the canopy of stars twinkled, I insisted we sight the sea before bed. I was certain my instinct would guide me to the ocean. I led us across a paddock, we sploshed through wet grass down to where I was sure we’d find the shore, but no such luck. Eventually, sensibly, we gave up. It transpired, in the light of day, I had no clue where the beach was and, if we’d carried on the way I’d wanted, we’d have walked inland through a field of cows. The day we’d earmarked for walking, the forecast rain never fell. Along Port Charles Rd we drove, to Stony Bay, the roads increasingly remote, rough and narrow. Rental car companies are wise to declare this route off-limits. And the good news — the walk was just as delightful as I’d described it. Birds and mature trees, views of the sea all the way to Aotea/Great Barrier and Cuvier Island; combining forest and farm, bush and beach, any worries I’d had about over-gilding the lily were put to rest.

Fletcher Bay in the Coromandel (top); Elisabeth Easther cycling Port Jackson Rd. Photos / Getty Images; Supplied

Handily, we’d also packed bicycles and the following day we explored the other side of the peninsula, stopping off in Te Puru to see my grandfather’s elegant old home. It looked so much smaller to my adult eyes. We drove on roads where pōhutukawa crowded down like spectators at a sporting match, and parked at Fantail Bay. We cycled along the undulating coast and followed our noses towards the tip of the cape as incredibly beautiful vistas unfolded before us. Not a cycle trail per se, but Port Jackson Rd is ideal for two wheels and, being the beginning of winter, we only saw three cars all afternoon. Above Port Jackson, at the brow of a hill, we gazed down upon a windswept beach and in an uncharacteristic burst of indolence, I baulked — if we cycled all the way down, we’d have to pedal back up. But my companion convinced me it would be worth the effort, and all it took was the promise of a Peanut Slab. On we rolled through picturesque pastures, down, down, down, until we reached the seaside campground, deserted except for a welcome party of ducks. A pause for refreshments — including the promised Peanut Slab — and to our astonishment, we found picnic tables painted with snakes and ladders, noughts and crosses, draughts and, best of all, backgammon with a complete set of playing pieces strung on a wire with driftwood stoppers — there were even dice. In the interests of fair and accurate reporting, I won the backgammon, although we were both winners that weekend, because our expedition was so utterly charming.

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Tuesday, June 2, 2020 | 19

Departure Lounge

NEXT WEEK ... We continue our Go NZ domestic specials with the ultimate guide to family holidays. Our experts give their tips for the country’s diverse range of family friendly destinations and what to do when you get there, from hot pools to skate parks, motels to museums. We’ve scoured the country to find all you need to plan your next family getaway, with tips for Taupo, Christchurch, Dunedin, Queenstown, New Plymouth, Coromandel and many more. Don’t miss your copy of Travel, out on June 9 inside the New Zealand Herald, Northern Advocate, Bay of Plenty Times, Whanganui Chronicle, Rotorua Daily Post and Hawke’s Bay Today.

Otumuheke Stream, Taupo. Photo / Joel McDowell

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Being able to once again share with you all Continuing to plan all the places we’re going to visit the things we love about travelling in New when the world eventually finds its new normal. We’ll Zealand, and all the wonderful places there never stop dreaming. are to go. Who needs overseas travel anyway?

Having the chance to get out there and support local Covid-19’s impact on lives around the world. Not only businesses and tourism operators again. Not only do we those who are sick, but all those in the travel and get to have epic holidays at home, we also get to do our tourism industries who are facing devastating effects bit to get the economy restarted. Win-win on their livelihoods. Please support where you can.

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20 | Tuesday, June 2, 2020