R E CIPE
Xinh's Northwest Oyster Stuffing
If you are familiar with Xinh Dwelley's cooking than you can attest to her culinary genius. However, since she retired from her restaurant in Shelton we've all been experiencing some pangs of withdrawal. We caught up with her recently to share some oysters and eggrolls. Below is a oyster stuffing recipe to make your holiday dinner a little tastier. Xinh Dwelley was raised on a rice farm in Vietnam. Her first job was dishwashing, subsequently transitioning to cooking in an American mess hall. By her 15th birthday she was gaining recognition for her fried chicken and hamburgers. “The officers club loved my cooking,” she says. Along with the sense of flavors learned at her mother’s side – like learning to walk or breathe – Xinh just understood food. Xinh married an American soldier and – fortunately for us – he brought her to Olympia. She took a job shucking for Ellison Oyster, now Taylor Shellfish. She was good. And each year was better. In 1989 her first place speed at the West Coast Shucking Championship was 3:08 – taking her on to win the National Championship. In 1992, with five first place wins – each faster than the previous year–she decided to retire from competing. When her employer, Taylor’s, asked her to prepare an authentic Vietnamese meal, she accepted the challenge. It wasn’t the typical mess food she was
used to and she wasn’t a trained chef –but Xinh has a good memory. “I make curry sauces from memory,” she says, “Our rice farm was in a tidal swamp; we had a lot of fish. That’s what my mother cooked.” Needless to say, her meal was a great hit and her duties transformed.
"Xinh’s flavors are so intuitive they showcase each ingredient – but never distract from the dish." Recently we had the honor of Xinh Dwelley cooking in our kitchen for an event hosted at our shellfish farm. Cooking alongside Xinh is like watching a talented confident artist at work. My children took to her instantly and were enlisted as her sous chefs, scurrying around the hum of the kitchen like well mannered bees basking in her lively warm personality. Xinh gently taught Luke how to fold wontons and patiently brushed off crooked pinches. When my fridge lacked an essential dressing she just shrugged, “we’ll make do.”
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Her grace not only made it an enjoyable experience – we also had a fantastic feast! Don’t take my word for it. Her restaurant walls were festooned with countless ribbons and plaques of the many honors her dishes earned. These were interspersed with the images of her with famous people: Julia Child, Anthony Bourdain and Dirty Job’s Mike Rowe to name just a few. Xinh speaks fondly of her friendships with each. Despite all the accolades she remains humble and genuine – enjoying a hot dog when she isn’t making divine seafood fusions for her adoring fans. Her restaurant may be closed but Xinh Dwelley is constantly "giving back" – donating countless hours and dishes to community events. October, her geoduck chowder and mussel curry were popular food choices at OysterFest. In December, catch up with Xinh at the holiday celebration December 8 to support the 2018 Christmastown Santa project in downtown Shelton. Stop by give her Christmas wishes at the 32' Santa! Until then, enjoy this oyster recipe!
OYSTER STUFFING
Xinh Dwelley
XINH'S OYSTER STUFFING 14 to 16 lb turkey 2 pints of oyster meat 1 lb ground sausage meat 4 ½ cups chopped celery 2 cups chopped onions 1 cup raw slivered almonds 3 eggs, slightly beaten 12 oz dry stuffing bread cubes 2 cups chicken or turkey broth Blanch oysters for two to three minutes in boiling water. Drain and set aside to cool for handling. Cut into bite size pieces. Over medium heat in a large saute pan, cook sausage until done, drain on paper towels and set aside. In the saute pan with the sausage grease add almonds, celery and onion cooking over medium heat until vegetables are tender and onions are translucent. Add cooked sausage, eggs, blanched oysters and stuffing mix to the vegetable mixture. Remove from heat and combine well, adding the broth until bread cubes are moistened. Stuff the turkey with mixture and bake according to the directions for a stuffed turkey. Enjoy!
