River Memories
UmpqUa Edition
A publicAtion of the news-Review August 25, 2013
UMPQUA EDITION
Page 2 —
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
REVELING IN OUR RIVERS
Readers’ stories and photos awash in appreciation for Umpqua River system
T
The News-Review
hree years ago, The NewsReview asked readers to identify and rank their favorite 100 aspects of Douglas County. No. 1 honors went to the Umpqua River, by a water slide (“landslide” doesn’t seem right to describe a river). Though more than 1,000 days have passed since the voting, we don’t have any reason to believe Douglas County residents are any less fond of the waterways that travel through our cities, towns and
rural outposts. We have a special reason to love the Umpqua River and its tributaries. Usually, big watersheds spread across several counties. The Umpqua Basin lies entirely within our county borders. It also complements the county’s land-based attractions, creating a haven for anglers, hunters, rafters and wildlife watchers. Summer seems like the most natural time to enjoy what our rivers and their offshoots have to offer. But county residents submitting stories and photos of their river memories covered the seasonal spectrum. What
they had to show and tell appears within these pages. In addition, 44 readers entered our Umpqua Edition photo contest. The editor’s choice award went to Amy Smith of Oakland, whose “Umpqua Reflections” photo is on the cover of this section. To view the people’s choice award, go to http://nrtoday. upickem.net/engine/Winners.asp x?PageType=WINNER&contest id=98060. So wade on into our special section. The water’s fine. — Tricia Jones, Umpqua Edition editor
COVER PHOTO: “Umpqua Reflections,” a photo of the North Umpqua River submitted by Amy Smith of Oakland
STORY INDEX Scenes of the Seasons........................4 A Family Affair.......................................5 Camping Creekside..............................6 Float Your Boat...................................10 Photographing the North Umpqua....12 River Appreciation Day.......................13 Passing on His Pastime......................14
Little River Lore.................................19 Christmas Flood................................20 Family Ties.........................................21 Riverside Hunting..............................22 Home on the River.............................24 Raised by the River............................26 Watery Playgrounds Abound............28
Visit Roseburg in the Heart of the Stop by the Roseburg Area Chamber of Commerce & Visitor Center for Information about Roseburg and the Land of Umpqua 410 S.E. Spruce St., Roseburg • Take exit 124 East
541-672-9731 • visitroseburg.com
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Umpqua Edition — Page 3
Thank you for your cooperation in helping to conserve our landfill resources. HERE’S HOW WE DID IN 2012 Cardboard ................. 874 tons Used Motor Oil .......... 761 gals. Wood Waste ......... 1280 cu. yds. All Other .................... 509 tons
By changing our throw away habits, we promote a healthier pollution free environment. “Recycle, Help the Planet survive.”
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!
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UMPQUA EDITION
Page 4 —
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Scenes of the Seasons Photo courtesy of J. Yvonne Jones
Elk enjoy a fall day in 2009 on the banks of the Umpqua River as seen from the home of J. Yvonne Jones of Umpqua.
River puts on riveting show, regardless of the season J. YVONNE JONES
T
he beautiful Umpqua River literally runs through my front yard, by virtue of a property description that ends in the middle of the river. Thus I have a front-row seat on a neverending kaleidoscope of scenes that vary from one season to the next, from the first light of dawn to the last hour of dusk, and from one patch of weather to another. Winter brings a stark, barren world with a variety of ways to
view the river. Sometimes it is barely seen during a heavy rain, or gusting winds cause nonstop ripples to chase one another across the current, or it may not be visible at all through a thick fog. Snowflakes falling silently create a magical scene, best viewed through a picture window next to a crackling fire. The water itself varies from deep, silent and green, to a snowmelting milky green, to café au lait as mud begins to enter from steep hillsides. Occasionally our usually well-behaved river becomes an angry, roaring
torrent, racing to the sea with an array of gifts picked up along the way. I’ve seen runaway boats, unhinged docks, plastic bottles, tubs, buckets, whole logs, lumber, even a mass of orange pumpkins picked up from a flooded field. I was astonished after seeing birds riding by on half-submerged stumps, until it was explained to me that as the water rises, insects flee to the stumps, resulting in cruise dining for a clever bird. Once I was witness to the astounding sight of ice sheets floating by!
Winter eventually gives way to the scene turning green with the arrival of spring. The gray, lichen-loaded trees lining the banks are clothed in new green leaves and fields grow lush with fresh grass. The water level drops, revealing grasscovered rocks emerging and little rapids developing. Insects hatch and swallows swoop above the water, enjoying the rich feast. Turkey vultures arrive to soar in endless circles or line up on fence posts with Turn to SCENES, page 16 Investment/Income Duplex: 3 bdrm/3 bath each side
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Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Umpqua Edition — Page 5
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Photo courtesy of Diane Williams
‘Earth Water Air,’ an oil painting by Diane Williams, was displayed in the Umpqua Valley Art Associations Membership Show this summer. The painting is not for sale.
A FAMILY AFFAIR
I
DIANE WILLIAMS
s there anyone in Douglas County (aka the Umpqua Watershed) who does not have a personal connection to a bounding creek or one of our great rivers?
Our family has lived on the North Umpqua for more than three decades, and the river, from the top of the Cascades at Maidu Lake to the Pacific Ocean at Winchester Bay, has been a vital part of our Turn to FAMILY, page 7
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UMPQUA EDITION
Page 6 —
LAND OF THE UMPQUA Douglas County sunrise Scent of Evergreen bough Sweet welcoming for travelers Of yesterday and now
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Camping Creekside Rustic camp sites offer soulful solitude A pool at a campsite off Rock Creek Road on the North Umpqua Highway shelters several unseen salmon.
Behind the Conestoga Or walking with the quail Now and then a bite or two Then hit the rugged trail Into the Umpqua Valley Gramps and Grandma came Along the winding Applegate Their old ox going lame Decided to settle Next to a river there And with the wooded valley Began their love affair
Photo courtesy of Emily Blakely
Fish to catch in the Umpqua Deer and elk abound, Plenty of veggies to pick and cook Fruit of this fertile ground. CHORUS: Land of the Umpqua A hundred valleys strong We’re blessed to be living here And we praise you with this song. Members of An Association of Writers collaborated to write this song in celebration of Oregon’s sesquicentennial.
EMILY BLAKELY
D
eparting Roseburg’s hub of civilization in search of a weekend camping spot for my family, a
sense of freedom grew as I followed the North Umpqua Highway east. Traffic thinned by the time I passed the Oregon State Fish and Wildlife building and the scenery was transformed
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from city dwellings to open farmlands. This well-traveled route to Bend was one I’d been on many times before, always wondering what the campgrounds were like, not to mention the
many falls and hiking trails marked along the way. I’ve only lived in Douglas County for 30 years, and it was time I spent part of a day Turn to CAMPING, page 15
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Family: River water runs through family’s blood Continued from page 5
h s a l F r Quarte Saturday, Sept. 7
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Our sons, Spencer and Alex, have moved away, but like salmon, they return to the river they know best.
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tickets.umpqua.edu Photo by Owen Carey
lives as we swim and boat the waters and hike the trails following its descent. Our sons, Spencer and Alex, have moved away, but like salmon, they return to the river they know best. One memorable day a decade ago, Spencer worked in the water, moving rocks from the river bed to the bank, shoring up a vulnerable spot. I asked what he was thinking. He replied, “I’m in contact with three forms of matter: solid earth, liquid water, gaseous air. Water is heavier than air and runs downhill.” I liked what I heard and asked for more. He went on: “Human bodies are about 65 percent water; I’ve lived here most of my life, so I’m mostly North Umpqua River.” Delighted, I added, “And you’re shedding skin cells, so the river shares your DNA.” There was more, but this is enough to tell today. The paint is barely dry on the painting, a work I’ve long wanted to do to commemorate that day. The kid in the picture looks as much like Alex as his brother, and both boys—and John and I as well—love our rushing, crashing, green and liv-
Umpqua Edition — Page 7
Umpqua Community College Presents
ing river, the mighty North Umpqua. Diane Williams is a writer and a painter who lives in Winchester on the North Umpqua River. Current projects include several children’s books designed to involve readers in creating part of the story and adding to the illustrations.
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Page 8 — Umpqua Edition
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
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Umpqua Edition — Page 9
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UMPQUA EDITION
Page 10 —
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Roseburg to Reedsport river float well worth the time
FLOAT YOUR BOAT voyageurs? We had several drift boats, a kayak, (which was soon abandoned), and one intrepid canoeist. It is pleasant to float along on a river, and much of the main Umpqua is devoid of buildings and settlement. At times one feels really immersed in the natural world. At the end of the day we camped on one of the multitude of sandy beaches, lit campfires beside the moving water and sat around savoring the day, our food and our progress. Most of the land along the way is managed by the Bureau of Land Management; the water and the shores are public. The mostly flowing placid scenes are occasionally interrupted by fast-moving water and rising pulses. Care must be taken and scouting done from the shore before attempting these rapids. Most are easily passable, but one requiring care is Crow Rapids, about a mile below Cleveland Rapids. It can be handled by walking boats through by a long rope from the left bank. Another that warrants caution is Smith-Ferry Rapids, about a half mile above the
BOB ALLEN
M
ost of us enjoy our wonderful rivers for brief periods of swimming, boating or just hanging out on the beaches. On occasion, ideas of adventure intrude, and many of us have heard stories over the years of an alleged annual Boy Scout canoe trip down the Umpqua all the way to Reedsport. In our small-boat circle that tempting voyage Bob remained long in Allen of the “Let’s do that Roseburg someday when holds aloft we get around to a catch it” category. In of bass 2003, we faced on the the music: “Are Umpqua we ever going to River near do this trip or just Cleveland talk about it?” We Rapids dozen or so made Park. out our wills, set a date, gathered Photo courtesy of our small flotilla, Bob Allen allotted duties, counted heads and gear, encouraged other friends to join us en route and set out bravely from River Forks Park in early July. After all, if Scouts could do it, why couldn’t we
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Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
UMPQUA EDITION
— Page 11
Float:
Th
agreed it was worth it. Four of us finished the voyage at Reedsport. We had a little rain one day. Fishing for smallContinued from page 10 mouth bass was available every day. Friends who could not do Kellogg bridge. These can the whole trip got on and off be avoided by taking boats at places like Elkton through the shallow and Scottsburg. We water stream to the took occasional right side and away breaks to go into the from the main curtowns for drinks and rent. Just below these food. Very few other rapids is a lovely boats were encounswimming hole with It is tered on the river, water pouring over pleasant which was unexsmall cliffs, bringing pected, and we swam to mind a tropical to float every day. scene. along on a Needless to say, Next, just after the readtown of Elkton, is a river, and Iersencourage to consider this small but tricky rapid much of trip. The Oregon that can toss boats. and Recreation Again, lining down the main Parks Department is workwith a long rope is Umpqua is ing with agencies easy enough. Lastly, as the BLM and Sawyer Rapids near devoid of such Partnership for the Scottsburg is a probbuildings Umpqua Rivers to lem but passable by create a water trail paying attention to and for boaters along how your boat should settlement. this very route to get through it or It will again by lining down At times, Reedsport. include campsites, with a long rope. one feels maps and takeout One more caution: spots along the way. When approaching really Give them a call to Reedsport, stay in see about progress. immersed the far left side of the I’m glad I did it with river along the road, in the my friends, and you as much of it is very will, too! natural shallow and a boat could get stuck until world. Bob Allen is a the tide returns to lift Roseburg resident. you up. He can be reached at Umpqua It took us seven days and Watersheds, 541-672-7065. about 110 river miles. All
Photo submitted by Greg Flick of Elkton
This is a photo that I took of two Sun Oven Solar Cookers at Whistler’s Bend Park in 2010 at the Umpqua River Appreciation Days celebration. This is low-impact use of the Umpqua River. Cookin’ on the river with solar power.
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UMPQUA EDITION
Page 12 —
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
North Umpqua River beckons to PSU student
Photo submitted by Chase Vincent Gilley
Seen on an April morning, the North Umpqua River reminds Portland State University student Chase Vincent Gilley why he always comes home to Roseburg. CHASE VINCENT GILLEY
I
was born and raised in Roseburg and grew up with all things river-related as part of my life. I’m a fourth-generation Roseburg fisherman dating back to my great-grandfather, Bruce Gilley,
who moved to town in the late 1940s. As much as I enjoy the city, home is and will always be Roseburg. I’ve gotten to photograph all over the world now, but it seems like I always come back to my first muse, that river, when I first picked up a camera in the eighth grade.
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On one of my most recent trips home I knew I wanted to take a nice picture that sums up the beauty of Roseburg’s waterways. So on an April Saturday I woke up at 6 a.m. to get into the car and head up North Bank Road. I went up and down the road, searching for my perfect
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Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
UMPQUA EDITION
— Page 13
Appointing a day to love your rivers BOB ALLEN
S
everal weeks ago, on July 20 in Elkton, local river fans celebrated the 27th Annual River Appreciation Day in Oregon. The celebration often moves about Douglas County, and this year it was on the banks of the Main Umpqua in the beautiful Elkton Community Education Center. This transient festival is about appreciating the wonderful asset we have in our North, South and main Umpqua rivers. We have held it in Canyonville, Glide, Douglas County’s River Forks Park, Roseburg’s Stewart Park Nichols Band Shell and even Black Rock Creek in the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Wilderness. It began with a group of concerned citizens becoming dismayed at the sewage spills in the South river in 1987 due to repeated power failures at the then newly constructed treatment facility in Roseburg. The budget had not included a backup generator in case of power failures. Political pressure was applied through various means, and a used generator was found and installed.
After all that negativity, we decided to do something positive and affirming on river and water issues. River Day emerged as an idea. As far as we know, since then there have been no sewage spills due to power shortages. We invited Roseburg Urban Sanitary Authority to come to our first celebration of local rivers at River Forks Park in September 1987. John Kitzhaber, then president of the Oregon Senate, was the keynote speaker. Intending to make this an annual event, we asked Dr. Kitzhaber to introduce a bill to the Oregon House and Senate, designating the third Saturday in July as “River Appreciation Day in Oregon.” He did just that and got it passed with the help of state Rep. Norm Gershon of Roseburg. It was signed by Gov. Neil Goldschmidt in 1988. We sent copies of the bill to towns and newspapers around the state, hoping for other towns to follow our lead. River Appreciation Day can be every day in our county. Please join us, government agencies and others in protecting these marvelous waterways that belong to all of us. Bob Allen lives in Roseburg.
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Photo courtesy of Bob Allen
Revelers celebrate 1998 River Appreciation Day at River Forks Park northwest of Roseburg.
UMPQUA EDITION
Page 14 —
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Avid fisherman angling to teach daughter NATHAN SHOULTZ
I
’ve been fishing our beautiful Umpqua rivers for 10 years, since I moved to Roseburg in 2004, and will be fishing them for many years to come. A 19-inch smallmouth bass caught out of the South Umpqua is my biggest catch so far. I’ve been married for five years to my soul mate, Cynthia. We have a beautiful daughter, Alyssa Diane. My daughter is 19 months old and she’s very smart. She’ll pick fishing up very fast.
Photos submitted by Nathan Shoultz
Nathan Shoultz of Roseburg holds a 19-inch smallmouth bass caught from the South Umpqua River about eight years ago.
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UMPQUA EDITION
— Page 15
Camping: Continued from page 6 taking some of the turnouts to see the deeper beauty of that Umpqua River drive. I looked at multiple sites, some directly off the main highway, others a longer distance. Finally, I turned off to Rock Creek Road, a gentle but steady climb that eventually switched pavement for gravel. There were two campgrounds off the beaten path, and I chose the smaller one with more unoccupied camp sites. No phones, no TV — just the trill of songbirds and the sound of bubbling, clear water flowing from Rock Creek. More rustic camping doesn’t suit everyone’s idea of a fun time. So we are fortunate to have so many great choices to satisfy our diversity, some much more rustic than at Rock Creek. Turn to CAMPING, page 17
Photo courtesy of Emily Blakely
Waters shimmer at an entry point to the Rock Creek Campground off the North Umpqua Highway.
UMPQUA EDITION
Page 16 —
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Photo submitted by Elizabeth Cosslett Meyers of Roseburg
This was taken on our first snowshoe trip to Diamond Lake. We had a wonderful day falling in the snow and blazing a trail, and on our way down the highway, stopped for some thermos hot chocolate and river watching. We ended the day by the fire snug and happy.
Scenes: Wildlife offers endless entertainment Continued from page 4 wings spread open to the sun, like clothes hung up to dry. Fishing boats begin to drift by or anchor in my “front yard,” affording me the excitement of watching fish being
landed. Even the ospreys and bald eagles entertain me with their fishing prowess. It is a breathtaking experience to notice an osprey hovering in midair, then suddenly diving headfirst into the water, sometimes emerging victori-
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ous, sometimes not so much. Bald eagles, on the other hand, make the plunge feet first, grabbing with powerful talons. I once watched an eagle make the plunge, hooking a fish too large to get airborne. Whether he could not, or would not, let
go is unknown, but after a brief struggle to achieve lift-off, he decided the prudent course was to use those powerful wings in a breast stroke to the nearest emerged rock. After hauling his Turn to SCENES, page 18
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Camping: Continued from page 15 Selecting a spot was “first-come, first-served.” We arrived early morning one weekend to stake out two sites. Other family members trickled in as their schedules allowed. Wading the shallows, we were taken by the array of rocks showing bright colors under the water’s surface: green, red, orange and a shade of blue mixed with the expected grays and browns. Collecting them was irresistible and pockets were soon dragging from the weight. The second day we loaded into our vehicles and followed our son’s guiding to a unique spot he knew of a few miles away. It was no easy access but worth the effort down a steep, rocky incline to the open area below with a large deep pool at one end. We learned from our son there would likely be salmon in the pool, hidden in dark shadows. The cold water took a little time to get accustomed to, but I waded in and waited with my face submerged to glimpse the fish he hoped to scare up when he dove deep. There was a flash of color, and then with a whirl and a swirl the half-dozen salmon darted away. For me, it was a once-ina-lifetime gift. It was beautiful. I was content for the remaining time camping at Rock Creek to let the sun dance on my face through tree leaves as I napped, listen to happy family chatter or watch as a curious doe crept close by. The huge trees were sentinel to a true sanctuary of total refreshment, and I yearn to return there. Emily Blakely lives in Sutherlin.
Wading the shallows, we were taken by the array of rocks showing bright colors under the water’s surface: green, red, orange and a shade of blue mixed with the expected grays and browns. Collecting them was irresistible and pockets were soon dragging from the weight.
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Umpqua Edition — Page 17
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UMPQUA EDITION
Page 18 —
Scenes:
of sailors simply drifting by in metal boats, wooden boats, rafts, canoes and inner tubes. Where they began and where they ended is irrelevant. I simply enjoy the parades. The setting sun daily turns the water into a vast pool of sparkling diamonds. By the end of summer, the river is meandering slowly to the ocean, picking up thick clumps of moss along the way. The hillsides turn into a rich tapestry of yellow, gold, red and many shades of green. River eddies swirl with a topping of fallen leaves. Irrigation is turned off for the year and the water begins to rise again. Trees once more wear only strands of lichen and the grass is no longer green.
Continued from page 16 catch onto the rock, he feasted, then preened until dry enough to fly. Summer’s arrival drops the water level rapidly, as fields are irrigated upstream. Some summers one can nearly wade across the river in places, an invitation to fun times in and along the water. Inner tubes can be floated a short way downstream before being hauled out and returned to make the run time after time. For less ambitious members of the party, an air mattress floats lazily in a side eddy. Or one can simply sit on a rock with the water rushing over legs and feet. On one occasion, after sitting quietly for some time, I looked down and observed numerous crawfish examining my feet. I learned that day that it is indeed possible to walk on water! The serious spring fishing boats give way to streams
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Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
The wildlife to be seen along the river is a definite bonus. Birds of all kinds follow the river path like a highway. Eagles go past like guided missiles, ospreys loop and meander, ducks and geese go by in groups, conversing loudly along the way. Blue herons smoothly glide just above the water, leaving one to wonder how they avoid taking an occasional unplanned dip. Other times they are amusing to watch as they poke along in the shallows, bobbing for goodies. There is a horizontal snag extending just above the water that serves as a morning gathering place for turtles. Morning and evening the deer emerge to
browse along the river’s edge. Geese nest in hidden spots, then proudly bring the family out to mingle with other families before taking to the water for the first swimming lesson. There have been times when a black bear provides an evening show as it pokes along the banks. Across the river our own group of 50 to 60 elk provide year-round entertainment. Springtime brings groups of cows with tiny calves frolicking joyously. In summer it is a strange sight to see only heads and horns showing above the tall grass. By fall the big, branched bulls posture and bugle, sometimes locking horns over some enticing young lady. A special treat is to catch sight of the herd playing in the water like a group of schoolchildren. Then once again it is winter, with the herd quietly grazing in a steady rain. And the beautiful Umpqua River rolls on, ready to begin another round of amazing scenery! J. Yvonne Jones is an Umpqua resident.
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UMPQUA EDITION
— Page 19
Little River looms large in family lore
JUANITA KINGERY
E
ven though 62 years have slipped by, I still get nostalgic when I drive past the old swimming hole. It is located on Little River, about a mile up from what’s called the only place in the world where two rivers meet head on, the rivers being Little River and the North Umpqua. I remember that hot, dusty summer with the smell of ripe blackberries in the air. I was a young girl unable to swim, but drawn to the cool water of the river teeming with crawdads, fish and all sorts of snails and other creatures. I was raised by a single mother who also was unable to swim and who was constantly worried about her three children living in close proximity with Little River. That summer she approached us with an offer. If and when we learned to swim, she would give us a $5 bill. With sparse finances and the fact that $5 was a fortune Umpqua Editionwe Special Tab every ad 2013 7.5 we x 5 got in 1951, practiced chance (of course, our daily chores had to be done
before going to the river). By the end of the summer, all three of her children were able to swim. I am sure I was not a graceful or accomplished swimmer, but I could save myself if the need arose. Jumping ahead to the year 1979, my mother learned to swim at the YMCA, a feat she was very proud of. Shortly after she learned to swim, I took her to the old swimming hole on Little River, where she proudly entered the water to show off her swimming skills. Much to the surprise of all present, she didn’t need to swim across the river. Due to her body composition, she was able to bob across the river, moving her hands in a graceful wave to propel her to the other shore. I now take my grandchildren to swim in Little River and to study the creatures that live in its waters. I wonder if 50 years from now they will bring their grandchildren to swim in the waters of Little River. Juanita Kingery is a Roseburg resident.
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Page 20 —
UMPQUA EDITION
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
A ChristmAs Flood
River made special Christmas delivery in 1964 LAVERNE WEST
B Photo courtesy of Laverne West
This undated photo around Winchester Street in Roseburg shows how flooding could make life damp in Douglas County.
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UMPQUA EDITION
— Page 21
Family Ties River view never grows old for longtime resident MARION CLOAKE SCHELEEN
I
am sitting on my patio on a beautiful Sunday afternoon. I live on a bend in the river, so it is on two sides of my property. Turn to VIEW, page 29
Photo courtesy of Marion Cloake Scheleen
Marion Cloake of Roseburg, left, enjoys standing on the South Umpqua River on a December day in 1932 when it froze over. Her cousin, Wallace Cloake, who lived on adjacent property, is seen with her, along with his dog, Ring.
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UMPQUA EDITION
Page 22 —
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Ambush along South Umpqua provides autumn rush
RIVERSIDE HUNTING dropped their landing gear. Too late, the birds realized our ruse. When the first shot rang out, then another, they tried to turn and gain altitude. I swung on one giant bird and fired. It hit the ground with a hard thump as I tried unsuccessfully to get another bird in my sights. When it was over, I realized I was shaking. Excitement does that to me. And this type of hunting, my friends, is exciting. Canada goose hunting means shooting geese, of course, but it is infinitely more. It is pleasure in perfecting your skills with a shotgun. It is a glorious sunrise or a vivid sunset. It is listening to nature’s most beautiful music. It is a special kind of companionship with men you enjoy and admire. More, it is the thrilling aerial antics of a flock of wild Canada geese, their haunting calls on a misty morning, the wonder they create as they wing in toward your spread of decoys. May BOM Color Ad Slick Most of all, it is being outdoors in fall, when all of nature unfolds Get outstanding low prices on quality products. before you. Until you have sat in a decoy spread and watched an autumn day begin, develop and then decline, 99 you have missed one of life’s greatest pleasures. 199 Photo submitted by Mark Baptista
MARK BAPTISTA
W
e waited in the middle of a plowed cornfield, adjacent to the South Umpqua River, scanning the early morning skies above a small spread of decoys. All was quiet for many minutes, and then in the distance, we heard the first melodic strains of flying geese. It was hard to pinpoint them at first, but after a minute or two, I could make out the birds floating in the tangerine sunrise. Adrenaline stirred my senses. They were coming our way. Minutes passed like hours. The calls of the Canada geese grew in volume. Their forms grew in size. We could tell now there were 20 or more coming toward us in a V-shaped wedge. The flock broke up. Some began swinging north, away from our spread. But some held a steady course that soon would take them over our heads. I began calling. Would it be enough to attract their attention? I gripped my shotgun tightly and wondered. The last five minutes seemed like an hour. More of the flock broke off, turning back toward another field. Fewer than a dozen geese remained, but these were convinced our spread was real. At 100 yards out, they cupped their wings and began swinging back and forth in the air as they flexed their rudders and
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Roseburg’s Mark Baptista displays the day’s Mark Baptista is a Roseburg resitake on an October 2012 goose hunting trip at dent and a 1979 graduate of RoseMAY the South Umpqua River off Curry Road. burg High School. 999
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UMPQUA EDITION
Flood: Continued from page 20 County. Thereafter, the event would be known historically as the Christmas flood of 1964, almost 50 years ago. Being that any time of the year the weather is often unpredictable, locals in Glide use Mount Scott as a weather gauge for snowfall. They also watch the rise of the North Umpqua River after a storm. In 1964, during a period of 24 hours, more than 3 inches of rain was recorded, melting the snow in higher elevations in the face of growing flood threats. Waters in the river and streams began rising rapidly to flood stage. The angry, roiling waters spilled over their banks, creeping into the lowlands, loosening the soil, causing landslides, toppling trees and blocking roads. Throngs of curious sightseers jumped into their vehicles for a closer, chaotic view unfolding within the river gone wild. They watched large, rootbound trees flow downstream. In the brown waters, brush tangled into whirlpool eddies with lumber, picnic tables, lawn chairs, pump houses, woodsheds, logs, limbs, outhouses and metal barrels were
— Page 23
Waters in the river and streams began rising rapidly to flood stage. The angry, roiling waters spilled over their banks, creeping into the lowlands, loosening the soil, causing landslides, toppling trees and blocking roads.
boat and Toketee. The rushing waters had a roar to them, plus an unpleasant smell, as they flowed to the sea. I remember the flood of 1964 well as I was employed as a post office clerk with Postmaster Agnes Moore in the tiny post office located alongside the road, with the building facing the North Umpqua River across the Glide Loop roadway. A few days from Christmas, the post office was busy with customers mailing cards and letters and picking up parcels. Word reached us late in the afternoon that water was creeping onto the edge of the road not far from the post office. Postmaster Agnes decided we
had best evacuate the building to be on the safe side. All parcels were lifted on top of the rural carrier cases and sorting tables. Empty canvas mailbags were stored. All small items were stored as high as space was available. By early next morning, the rain had stopped. The water receded during the night, just missing inches from lapping underneath the doors of the post office. For a visible reminder of the Christmas Flood of 1964 and for details, visit the Colliding Rivers viewpoint off Highway 138 in Glide. Laverne West is a Roseburg resident.
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UMPQUA EDITION
Page 24 —
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Sport, an Irish setterLabrador cross belonging to Joe Federico of Roseburg, explores the banks of the North Umpqua River. Federico and Grant share an appreciation for poetry and Douglas County waterways. Photo courtesy of KatSue Grant
HOME ON THE RIVER Rivers transform travelers into dwellers
KATSUE GRANT
A
s a molten silver oblong shining of sunset at twilight, the South Umpqua is a sight I often seek from my small woodland on the town side of the Mount Nebo Ridge. Its seasonal shapes and
colors tickle my memories as it nestles between green banks or overflows, some springtimes, to visit is neighbors a bit too closely. Fresh water has ever been the everyday source of sustenance and pleasure for dwellers of the Umpqua River Valleys. No one can survive far
from a source of drinking water, one of the elements needed for human life: food, shelter, air, sunlight, water. So our cities, townships and villages have been settled beside waterways ever since people first crossed the ancient Turn to HOME, page 25
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Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
“MARY PRISCILLA” Why does she overwhelm my thoughts, my heart, like a mother? This sigh, once the very air she breathed in, whispering through it, these tears of unknown reminiscence — hers of nostalgia for home? I knew her not, yet am of her in some way, I care not how. This round stone in my hand is warm of the same sun that once tanned her lively small ones. Perhaps she selected this selfsame rock born of riverflow, to throw her arm strength’s length into its surge. Her huge hazel-eyed sight may have watched pensively its tiny white splash into the rumbling green, then swept upwards over those ancient firs rounding yonder bank, up into that forest-spiked ridge. See this silvered, motherlength remnant of tree’s trunk at my feet decaying decades of decades? It basked in her gaze as its sap moved, felt her roughened palm recognized her tread with its buried roots. Its rings of existence circle upon themselves and my reverent touch has traced each, trembled as it caressed those outer ones, built as she walked upon this place. This grassland meadow sun-sweetly aprons the North Umpqua
UMPQUA EDITION
before it trammels the rapids of the river, rushing river — oh, the river! relentless roaring wrestinglife regurgitating-death of a thing! Frothing teal-green, its boisterous spring aquamilk nurses the boulders that long ago supported her roughened leather soles, high-top boots laced tightly to keep her thin feet dry as she leapt, heart in mouth lest their wellworn grip slide — and in she tumbles! foretelling her own grown daughter’s river-demise long after Mary’s forced leaving. The cold, cold green flow I now palm-cup to my lips. Can it be the very same, tingling her lips then, mine now? Ever-alive, cycling water ’round the earth as cloud vapor falling, flow-gathering upon the good green earth sustained her, the flesh of her flesh these several generations and my own needful flesh? Ever-winding seasons between she and me I sense in the ensuing expanses of time, yet physical or virtual calendar of mankind’s reckoning unneeded between us. Does soil hold biographies, do trees count memories does wind carry eons of trees felled — even voices? I break off a piece of her life held a century and nearly another within this very tree. And she lives in my fingers.
Photo courtesy of KatSue Grant
Rottweiler Rocko, owned by Joe Federico, wants to fetch a stick he sees in the North Umpqua River, but is determined to keep his hind end out of its cold waters.
Home: Continued from page 24 land bridges from the north and southlands of their beginnings. The Umpquas sustained Native Americans, mountain man beaver trappers, traders, pioneers, ranchers, farmers and businessmen, just as they provide for Douglas County people today. Welcome to one of Oregon’s
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historic homelands! Visitors travel to see the Roseburg area’s many beauty spots and to fly-fish, white water raft, swim, tube-float. We have special annual events on the rivers to help celebrate their existence: Music on the Half Shell (July and August in the South Umpqua’s Stewart Park), River Appreciation Day (this year on July 20, on the main Umpqua by Elkton), Turn to HOME, page 30
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Page 26 —
UMPQUA EDITION
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Photo courtesy of Sue Hatfield
Geese gather for watery companionship on the North Umpqua River near the Roseburg-area home of Sue Hatfield.
Raised B RiveR
Past, present and future intersect in Umpqua waters
on the
SUE HATFIELD
eing born in the mid-1950s, where things were much less complicated than today, I was fortunate to grow up on the North Umpqua River. We spent hot summer days on the bank right in our backyard. This started when I was about 3 years old. Mom would pack lunch for my
older brother and sister and me and we’d spend the whole day swimming, fishing, exploring the river bank and just doing what young kids should do in the summer. We had a dachshund named Tina. Not wanting to be left behind, she’d follow us to the river and find a good, shady spot to spend the day. Turn to RAISED, page 27
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Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
UMPQUA EDITION
— Page 27
Raised: Remembering the flood of ’64, snow of ’69 Continued from page 26 I remember one day she found a piece of cheddar cheese on the bank. Little did she know that it was actually artificial cheese my brother used for fishing bait. Unfortunately, it was attached to a fish hook and she swallowed it, hook and all. All we could see was the end of the fishing line sticking out of her mouth. Not sure what to do, my mom headed to the house to call the vet. He said just cut the line off as short as possible and eventually the hook would dissolve in her stomach. Evidently it did, because she never had any bad effect from the incident. That episode didn’t stop her from following us back to the river the next day. I can’t remember that she ever ate cheese again. I think my brother was more careful with his fishing gear after that, too. Living on the river in the ’60s also had its downside. The 1964 flood will be embedded in my memory forever. I was 10 and not really old enough to understand the severity of the situation. I do remember though how fast the river rose and surrounded our house. Our neighbor across the road carried me across the front yard through knee-deep water to the safety of higher ground. We were fortunate to all get out safely and had
a dry place to stay in our camp trailer. Unfortunately, our house sustained quite a bit of damage. There was about 18 inches of water and mud in our house, which left a horrible mess to clean up. I don’t remember exactly how long it took to get it back to livable, but it did get cleaned up and we moved back in. One of my most favorite memories of living on the river was the big snow of 1969. We had a wonderful family who had moved next door a couple of years before that, and they had nine kids. Five were older than me and four were younger. Jane was a year younger than me and we quickly became good friends (and still are today). Anyway, along with other kids in the neighborhood, we all got together and made an inner tube slide down to the river. There was so much snow that Jane’s dad made a berm in the track so it curved right before heading into the water. We spent hours tubing that hill, climbing back up and sliding back down. How none of us ended up in the river we’ll never know. We sure had fun, though. Even though the adults were all happy to see the snow melt, the kids would have thought it fun for it to last forever. I feel so fortunate to have spent most of my life living
close to the Umpqua River. I hadn’t realized what an impact it’s had on my life until I started writing this article. I lived away from the river for 17 years and came back in 1989 with my family. My two sons grew up on the North Umpqua, and now my grandkids are spending time here, too. I’m hoping that someday they all appreciate it as much as I do. We are entertained daily with the wildlife in and around the water. Along with the geese that wake us up most summer mornings, the eagles, both bald and golden, are here most days. Unfortunately, they drove the osprey away a couple of years ago and we miss them. Occasionally we see the otters playing in the water or a beaver dragging brush across to his den on the other side of the river. A few years ago there was a family of red foxes playing on a sand bank and last year we saw a bobcat in the same place. Seems like nature’s always on display in and around the river. I have a framed cross-stitch hanging in my kitchen that says “Heaven is a Little Closer in a Home by the River.” I definitely feel close to heaven when I look out my windows at the North Umpqua River. Sue Hatfield lives in Roseburg.
We spent hours tubing that hill, climbing back up and sliding back down. How none of us ended up in the river we’ll never know. We sure had fun, though.
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UMPQUA EDITION
Page 28 —
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Douglas County awash with watery playgrounds TAMMY CASTLEMAN
W
hen it comes to our local rivers and streams, Douglas County has an inexhaustible supply of both, and it is impossible to choose the best or the most beautiful, because each one possesses its own unique offerings. From playing at the water’s edge as a child while my mother fished the vast Umpqua River, to growing up and discovering the magic of following the river back to its sources high in the surrounding mountains, much of my life has been spent enjoying both the beauty and the lessons of our rivers and their tributaries. From dozens of “favorite” places here in Douglas County to choose among, a few of
Photos courtesy of Tammy Castleman
Little Falls on Little River near Glide sparkles in the sunshine. mine are Grotto Falls, Hemlock Falls and Lower Cedar Creek Falls (all in the vicinity of Little River, outside of Glide). There are also Steamboat Falls and the lesser known, but no less beautiful, Little Falls (both on
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Steamboat Creek, Glide) Warm Spring Falls (in the vicinity of Lemolo Lake), Hubbard Creek Falls and Miner-Wolf Turn to PLAYGROUNDS, page 29
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Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
UMPQUA EDITION
— Page 29
View: Seasonal river scenes still inspire awe Continued from page 21
Miner Creek in the Tyee area west of Sutherlin projects calm and offers relief on a hot day.
Playgrounds: Continued from page 28 Creek (both in the Tyee area outside of Sutherlin.) As many times as I return to these, and other beautiful waterways here in Douglas County, I am reminded of the wise words of French
artist Paul Cezanne: “Here, on the river’s verge, I could be busy for months without changing my place, simply by leaning a little more to right or left.” Tammy Castleman is a Roseburg resident.
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I know it’s there today, but I cannot see it because the river level is so low this summer and especially since the leaves of the trees this time of year block the view. We do have a road to the river and it is an interesting walk. I was in an automobile accident five years ago and had a broken leg. Now I have to use a walker, but I can still make it to the river. My dog is delighted to walk with me there. My years have not diminished my joy in seeing the seasonal and yearly changes. This has been a great place to raise our four children. I have lived here for 90 years except for four years in college and working in Portland those summers. Now, two of our sons have raised five of my grandchildren here. One of my grandsons would spend most
of his days during the summer fishing with his dog. He would fish in a little boat while his dog swam protectively back and forth. He told me once that since he put back the fish he caught, he felt like he knew the names of them all. Sometimes the other cousins would visit and the area would become a maze of trails, forts and secret hideouts. The history of the land is interesting, too. My greatgrandparents, Abraham and Elizabeth Jones, homesteaded the land in 1853. My grandmother was born on the property, along with my dad. God has been so good in giving me this place to make my home. My husband and I built our home in 1948, only a few hundred yards from where I grew up. Marion Cloake Scheleen lives west of Roseburg.
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UMPQUA EDITION
Page 30 —
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Home: Teal-tinted river welcomes newcomers Continued from page 25 the Celtic Highland Festival’s two days and the Riverbend Live! month of music (both in Winston, respectively in mid-August and in July and August), Canyonville’s Summer in the Park music (July, by Canyon Creek in Pioneer Park), Myrtle Creek’s Music in the Park (July and August, by Myrtle Creek and the South Umpqua). In fact, almost wherever one travels in Douglas County, one is near a rushing river and/or a burbling creek or two. The first day my late husband and I ventured into Douglas County and Roseburg searching for a new home away from the detested Southern California we’d landed in from Montana (him) and New Zealand (me), we felt so excited we decided to take the very first Interstate 5 exit into Roseburg. You can imagine our dismay when the deadened end of Southwest Stephens met our eyes — block after rundown block beside the unsightly railroad, adult sex joint, third-hand stores. But as we drove along the river and past the then-pink historic Parrot House into downtown, we rejoiced. Next we stumbled onto delightful Jackson Street, crossed the Oak Street bridge s-l-o-w-l-y
so as not to miss a single foot of the green riverflow, down Harvard Avenue. Finding yet another bridge, we crossed over into Stewart Park, turned right into it, hurriedly climbed from the car and strolled across the grass to the rumbling rocky-banked river. We looked at each other as smiles bloomed, then wrapped into a humongous hug, exalting, “We’re home!” Since that inauguration day I’ve come to proudly honor and love this area. Every time I cross a bridge I drive s-l-o-w-l-y (who cares about those annoyed drivers behind?) so as to not miss the refreshing, fluid teal-tinted sights. Every week when I drive down the mountainside onto Harvard Avenue, on my list of must-dos are Stewart Park’s waterside and its fishing red-tailed hawks, the wee park behind the Douglas County Library with its statuesque heron silent in the shade, the park surrounding the visitor center ringing with bird sounds, and both bridge views into and out of downtown. I (and my two canine friends) never tire of these, and I’m into my 11th year in my hometown of Roseburg. My home water comes from a well, whose aquifer joins the Umpqua, just 500 feet below as the crows fly, 2½ miles via four short roads as humans drive. Over my yards
and 5-acre forest, red-winged hawks swoop low guiding fledglings’ flight, leaving their giant shadows behind. Redheaded pileated woodpeckers drill 2 feet from my hammock in the homewood; green kinglets, spotted towhees, russet iridescent hummingbirds, chickadees, red-breasted robins, blue jays, crows, owls, doves. Deer, coyotes, skunks and raccoons dwell alongside me. All need the water, too, and find it here in the seasonal streams and the water garden. I don’t fish, swim, float, raft or boat, but I enjoy the refreshing sight of others enjoying the jade shallows and teal river depths. The rivers— oh the rivers! Let’s be mindful in aiding them to thrive, and always entwine our daily lives in the valleys of the Umpquas.
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The southern river energizes earth, rocks, airwaves spooning Mt. Nebo’s bulky Ridge Molten pewter lightflow leaps into Garden Valley’s green reaches on mercury feet All through night’s still clarity as silvery Moon’s face kisses mine Our sociable twined river dances her banks.
KatSue Grant of Roseburg is a professional manuscript editor and is a member of several writing programs in Douglas County and statewide.
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Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Umpqua Edition — Page 31
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Page 32 — Umpqua Edition
Roseburg, Oregon — Sunday, August 25, 2013
Keep Our Children Safe!
. y l b i s n o p s e R e v i Dr Our schools will soon be in session. We’d like to remind you to drive carefully and help keep our children safe. After all, they’re our future. Take a minute to refresh your knowledge with the laws regarding driving and school buses. The Oregon Driver’s Manual, pages 91-92, is available at any DMV office. It can also be accessed at www.odot.state. or.us/forms/dmv/37.pdf. The manual’s instructions on how drivers need to interact with school buses are reprinted to the right.
School, Transit, Church, and Worker Buses *Stopping for School Buses Stopping for School Buses
Oregon school buses have flashing amber and flashing red lights near the top of the bus on the front and rear. School buses are also equipped with a stop arm that extends out from the left side of the bus near the driver’s window. The stop arm will be extended when the red lights begin to flash. School bus drivers turn on flashing amber lights to warn other traffic that the bus is about to stop on the road to load or unload children. You should get ready to stop. When the red lights begin to flash, this means drivers meeting or overtaking the bus from either direction must stop before reaching the bus. You must remain stopped until the bus driver turns off the flashing red lights. The school bus stop law applies on any roadway with two or more lanes of traffic. There is one exception to the law. If you are on a divided highway with two roads separated by an unpaved median strip or barrier, you must stop only if you are on the same side of the road as the bus. A painted median strip or a center lane used only for left turns does not create two separate roads. Where this situation exists, all lanes of traffic must stop. School bus drivers may report vehicles that improperly pass school buses. The report may be forwarded to the local law enforcement agency for investigation. All school buses and some school activity vehicles must stop at railroad crossings. The driver must open the bus door and be sure the tracks are clear before proceeding. *Oregon Driver’s Manual, pages 91-92
This message brought to you by the Cow Creek Umpqua Tribe of Indians 2371 NE Stephens, Roseburg, OR • 541-672-9405 • www.cowcreek.com