Axio (English) by nusenka

Axio Pullover

by Anna Fedorova

CONTENTS PATTERN INFORMATION SCHEMATICS NOTES ABOUT CHARTS AND DETAILED SCHEMATICS ABOUT YOKE DEPTH ABOUT BUST DARTS STITCH PATTERNS SPECIAL TECHNIQUES ABBREVIATIONS COLLAR UPPER YOKE SHORT ROWS LOWER YOKE BODY SLEEVES FINISHING CHART SYMBOLS CHARTS and DETAILED SCHEMATICS: All Sizes: Collar Size S1: Yoke Schematic and Charts Body Schematic and Bust Darts Chart Size S2: Yoke Schematic and Charts Body Schematic and Bust Darts Chart Size M: Yoke Schematic and Charts Body Schematic and Bust Darts Chart Size L1: Yoke Schematic and Charts Body Schematic and Bust Darts Chart Size L2: Yoke Schematic and Charts Body Schematic and Bust Darts Chart All Sizes: Sleeve All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019

PATTERN INFORMATION Finished Dimensions Size Inches at Bust Centimeters at Bust

S1 37 94

S2 38.6 98

M 40.2 102

L1 41.7 106

L2 43.3 110

Intended Ease: + 3.2” / 8 cm Shown in size S2 with 8 cm of positive ease Materials Worsted weight wool yarn in the following approximate amounts: 865 (900, 960, 1010, 1060) yards / 795 (825, 880, 925, 970) m Brooklyn Tweed Shelter (128 meters / 50g): 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) skeins or DK weight merino/cashmere blend yarn in the following approximate amounts: 1000 (1040, 1110, 1170, 1225) yards / 915 (950, 1015, 1070, 1120) m Lineapiu Group Babycash (150 meters / 50g): 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) balls The green sample sweater is knit in Brooklyn Tweed Shelter. The blue sample sweater is knit in Lineapiu Group Babycash. Needles 5.5 mm (for stockinette stitch in the round), 5 mm (for short rows and ribbing), 3 mm (for joining the two layers of Collar) circular needles. Gauge 19 stitches & 29 rounds = 4” / 10 cm in stockinette stitch with 5.5 mm needles, after blocking Swatch both in the round (for stockinette stitch in the round) and flat (for short rows) to find out which sizes of needles to use in each case so that your gauge is consistent throughout. Additional Tools Stitch markers, 5 mm crochet hook and smooth waste yarn for Provisional Cast On, blunt tapestry needle for Italian Bind Off and weaving in ends, T-pins for blocking Level Intermediate

All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019

Pattern Version 2.0 Last Revised August 2021

SCHEMATICS 94 cm Body Circumference at Bust 44 cm Lower Collar Circumference 40 cm Upper Collar Circumference 1.5 cm Collar Depth 23.5 cm Yoke Depth at Back

57 cm Body Length at Back

35 cm Upper Arm Circumference

18.5 cm Yoke Depth at Front

Size S1

26 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)

gth cm 36 ve Len e Sle

6 cm Leng Cuff

6 cm Ribbing Length

nce

fere

100 cm Body Circumference at Bottom

m cm 23 Circu ff u C

98 cm Body Circumference at Bust 44 cm Lower Collar Circumference 40 cm Upper Collar Circumference 1.5 cm Collar Depth 24.5 cm Yoke Depth at Back

58 cm Body Length at Back

36 cm Upper Arm Circumference

19 cm Yoke Depth at Front

Size S2

26 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)

gth cm 36 ve Len e e l S

6 cm Leng Cuff

6 cm Ribbing Length

104 cm Body Circumference at Bottom

All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019

nce

fere

m cm 23 Circu ff u C

102 cm Body Circumference at Bust 45 cm Lower Collar Circumference 41 cm Upper Collar Circumference 1.5 cm Collar Depth 25 cm Yoke Depth at Back

58.5 cm Body Length at Back

37 cm Upper Arm Circumference

19.5 cm Yoke Depth at Front

Size M

26 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)

gth cm 36 ve Len e e l S

6 cm Leng Cuff

6 cm Ribbing Length

nce

fere

108.5 cm Body Circumference at Bottom

m cm 24 Circu ff u C

106 cm Body Circumference at Bust 45 cm Lower Collar Circumference 41 cm Upper Collar Circumference 1.5 cm Collar Depth 26 cm Yoke Depth at Back

59.5 cm Body Length at Back

38.5 cm Upper Arm Circumference

21 cm Yoke Depth at Front

Size L1

26 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)

gth cm 36 ve Len e Sle

6 cm Leng Cuff

6 cm Ribbing Length

115 cm Body Circumference at Bottom

All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019

nce

fere

m cm 25 Circu ff u C

110 cm Body Circumference at Bust 44 cm Lower Collar Circumference 41 cm Upper Collar Circumference 1.5 cm Collar Depth 27 cm Yoke Depth at Back

60.5 cm Body Length at Back

40 cm Upper Arm Circumference

22 cm Yoke Depth at Front

Size L2

26 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)

gth cm 36 ve Len e e l S

6 cm Leng Cuff

6 cm Ribbing Length

119 cm Body Circumference at Bottom

e enc m mfer c 5 26. Circu ff Cu

NOTES •• Sweater is worked in one piece from the neck down. •• The Collar is provisionally cast on and knit in the round to form a folded hem. •• The Upper Yoke uses a circular yoke construction. It is then shaped with short rows to scoop flatteringly at the front neck. The Lower Yoke utilizes a seamless set-in sleeve construction which allows body and sleeves to curve around the underarm. •• Stitches are placed on hold for the Sleeves after working the Yoke. Stitches are cast on for the underarms, and work continues in the round over the Body stitches. Bust darts are knit for a better fit. •• Garment uses a Tubular Bind Off which creates a neat edge for 1 × 1 ribbing. •• Sleeves are worked after completion of the Body.

ABOUT CHARTS AND DETAILED SCHEMATICS There are three detailed schematics (Yoke, Body, Sleeve) and six charts (Collar, Upper Yoke Sleeve, Upper Yoke Body, Short Rows, Lower Yoke, Bust Darts) for each size. Different colors correspond to different sizes: green — S1, blue — S2, purple — M, red — L1, orange — L2.

ABOUT YOKE DEPTH To shorten yoke depth, omit rnds without increases evenly between the three sections: • This is a preview version of the pattern. • Please buy the full version of the pattern • to view this content. Refer to the table below for these rnds: All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019

This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content. For example, to remove rnds in Size M yoke, omit rnds

ABOUT BUST DARTS Bust Darts are drafted for B cup (Sizes S1, S2), C cup (Size M), and D cup (sizes L1, L2). To change cup size, use the Bust Darts Chart up or down a size. Position the chart symmetrically relative to the center front.

STITCH PATTERNS 1 x 1 Ribbing (even number of stitches; 1-rnd repeat) Rnd 1: *k1, p1; repeat from * to the end of rnd. Repeat Rnd 1 for pattern.

SPECIAL TECHNIQUES German Short Rows

At the point, where you see the symbol

do the following: 1. Knit the last stitch (to be in pattern). 2. Turn the work so the wrong side is facing. 3. Make sure that the working yarn is at the front of the work. 4. Slip your last stitch worked from the left needle to the right needle purlwise. 5. Pull firmly on the working yarn upward and to the back of the work, producing a double stitch. 6. Move your working yarn between the needles and to the front of the work, continue in purl.

Gtog

(

purl through both legs of your double stitch as a single stitch.

ABBREVIATIONS CO cast on

k knit

At the point, where you see the symbol

At the point of turning, where you see the symbol

Working double stitches in purl:

sts stitches

( ,

knit through both legs of your double stitch as a single stitch.

DSp — Starting from purl:

DSp

(

Gtog

(

At the point of turning, where you see the symbol

( ,

Note: To make short rows look tidier you can slip the 1st stitch in a row without working it after creating a double stitch and knit (or purl) it untwisted in the next row. It is advised for Japanese Short Rows but it works for German Short Rows too. Working double stitches in knit:

DSk — Starting from knit:

DSk

3. Bring the working yarn between the needles and to the front of the work. 4. Slip your last stitch worked from the left needle to the right needle, purlwise. 5. Pull firmly on the working yarn upward and to the back of the work, producing a double stitch. 6. Keep your working yarn to the back of your work, continue in knit.

p purl

do the following:

m1l make one left (single left-leaning increase)

1. Purl the last stitch (to be in pattern). 2. Turn the work so the right side is facing.

m1r make one right (single right-leaning increase)

All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019

sm slip marker BOR beginning of round k2tog knit 2 stitches together (single right-leaning decrease) ssk slip next 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, pass them back onto left-hand needle, then knit through back loops together (single left-leaning decrease) rnd round RS right side WS wrong side DSk, DSp, GTog — see SPECIAL TECHNIQUES.

COLLAR Work Collar Chart: Rnd 1: CO provisionally sts with smaller (5mm) circular needle. Join for working in the round. Place a BOR marker. Work as established through Rnd of Collar Chart (change to bigger (5.5 mm) circular needle after Rnd ). You will have a total of on your needle after completion of Rnd : S1

sts

Sleeve Front Back

UPPER YOKE To join the two layers of Collar place the stitches of the 1st rnd on a spare circular needle (3mm), remove Provisional CO, fold the hem to the inside and knit the stitches on the two layers together to join them. The rnd in which two layers of Collar are joined is the 1st rnd of Upper Yoke Charts. Work Upper Yoke Charts, knitting Right Sleeve sts, then Front sts, then Left Sleeve sts, then Back sts. You will have a total of sts on your needle after completion of radial increases:

All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019

LOWER YOKE Make sure that markers are in place: Marker 1 (between Back and Right Sleeve), Marker 2 (between Right Sleeve and Front), Marker 3 (between Front and Left Sleeve), Marker 4 (between Left Sleeve and Back). Change to bigger (5.5 mm) circular needle. You will have 2 double stitches on your needle after completion of Short Rows. Work every one of them as if it were single in the 1st rnd of Lower Yoke. Work Lower Yoke Chart, knitting Right Sleeve sts, then Front sts, then Left Sleeve sts, then Back sts, slipping marker when you encounter it. You will have a total of on your needle after completion of Lower Yoke: S1

sts

Sleeve Front Back

BODY Division Rnd: Slip Marker 1, transfer next S1 S2 M L1 L2 stitches to waste yarn for Right Sleeve, cast on Sleeve provisionally stitches, slip Marker 2, Front knit to Marker 3, sm, transfer next Back stitches to waste yarn for Left Sleeve, cast on provistitches, slip Marker 4, knit The Last Rnd of Upper Yoke Chart — Marker sionally Placement Rnd: slip BOR marker (Marker 1), knit to the end of rnd. Right Sleeve sts, place Marker 2, knit Front sts, You will have a total of stitchplace Marker 3, knit Left Sleeve sts, place Marker 4, es on your needle after completion of Division Rnd: knit Back sts. S1

SHORT ROWS

Underarm

Change to smaller (5 mm) circular needle.

Back

Front

Work Short Rows Chart, slipping marker when Knit you encounter it. counter it.

rnds, slipping marker when you en-

You will have a total of sts Note: Work Bust Darts Chart when you reach on your needle after completion of Short Rows: your bust apex or a little higher. S1

Sleeve Front Back

All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019

Note: The next page top photo is taken immediately before working Bust Darts Chart. The bottom photo shows yellow thread running through the round just before Bust Darts. 9

All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019

Next rnd (slip marker when you encounter it): • knit Right Underarm sts; • change to smaller (5 mm) circular needle; • work Bust Darts Chart; • change to bigger (5.5 mm) circular needle; • knit Left Underarm sts; • knit Back sts. Note: You will have 1 double stitch on your needle after completion of Bust Darts Chart. Work it as if it was single in the next rnd. Knit

rnds.

Next Rnd: knit, remove all markers except Marker 1.

Repeat the Body Increase Rnd every rnd more times. You will have a total of stitches on your needle after completion of body increases: S1

Underarm Front Back

Next Rnd: knit, remove all markers except Marker 1. Knit

Next Rnd — Marker Placement Rnd: • • • • This is a preview version of the pattern. • Please buy the full version of the pattern • to view this content. • • •

rnds.

Ribbing Change to smaller (5 mm) circular needle. Work in 1x1 ribbing for rnds. Bind off all stitches using Italian Bind Off in the Round.

SLEEVES

Undo Provisional CO, placing live stitches on bigger (5.5 mm) circular needle. Note that you will have two “half-stitches” at the very edges, and Next Rnd — Body Increase Rnd: Slip Marker 1, knit the total number of live stitches, including these to Marker 2, m1r, sm, knit to Marker 3, sm, m1l, knit half-stitches, will be 1 stitch more than the number to Marker 4, m1r, sm, knit to Marker 5, sm, m1l, knit of provisionally casted on ones — to the end of rnd. stitches. Retrieve the sleeve stitches put on hold —

...

yoke stitch underarm stitch

...

All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019

...

.. . .. . . ..

stitches. Distribute sleeve stitches Knit rnds. on the needle so that the beginning of the round is Ribbing in the middle of the underarm (see the schematic Change to smaller (5 mm) circular needle. located on the previous page). Note: The first rnd of Sleeve uses Tricorner method Sizes M, L1 only: While knitting 1st rnd of Ribbing, by Natalia Vasilieva. It helps to prevent holes at the decrease one stitch in the middle of the rnd. Upon completion of this rnd you will have a total of sides of an underarm. stitches on your needle. Next Rnd: • Rejoin yarn, place BOR marker, . Work in 1x1 ribbing for rnds. • Work the “half-stitch” crossed to the right to close Bind off all stitches using Italian Bind Off in the the gap (you may need to reorient the “half- Round. stitch”). • Find the “main body” stitch before the re- Repeat above instructions for second Sleeve.

• •

•

trieved stitches. Insert the crochet hook into this FINISHING stitch, beneath its right leg (which may appear “left” to you since you look at it upside down), Weave in all ends on the WS of fabric. Wet-block garand up back to RS, then turn the hook to twist ment to finished dimensions. the loop to the right. Pull remaining left leg of the same “main body” stitch through the loop, then place the resulting stitch onto the left needle and work it as usual. Knit retrieved stitches. Find the next “main body” stitch of the same rnd. Insert the crochet hook into this stitch, beneath its left leg, and down back to RS, then turn the hook to twist the loop to the left. Pull remaining right leg of the same “main body” stitch through the loop, then place the resulting stitch onto the left needle. Work it as usual. Work the next “half-stitch” crossed to the left to close the gap (you may need to reorient the “halfstitch”). .

You will have a total of stitches on your needle after completion of this rnd. Knit

rnds.

Next Rnd — Sleeve Decrease Rnd:

Repeat the Sleeve Decrease Rnd every rnd more times. You will have a total of stitches on your needle after completion of sleeve decreases.

All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019

CHART SYMBOLS

Size S1

Size S2

Size M

All sizes k1 no stitch knit specified number of stitches k1 (Upper Yoke) knit specified number of stitches (Upper Yoke, Lower Yoke) p1 (Short Rows, Bust Darts) purl specified number of stitches (Short Rows, Bust Darts) ssk k2tog m1r (RS) m1l (RS) m1r (WS) m1l (WS) DSk DSp Gtog (RS) Gtog (WS)

All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019

Size L1

Size L2 k1 knit specified number of stitches k1 (Upper Yoke) knit specified number of stitches (Upper Yoke, Lower Yoke) p1 (Short Rows, Bust Darts) purl specified number of stitches (Short Rows, Bust Darts) ssk k2tog m1r (RS) m1l (RS) m1r (WS) m1l (WS) DSk DSp Gtog (RS) Gtog (WS)

All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019

CHARTS AND DETAILED SCHEMATICS

Collar, Size S1