Ortho (English)

Page 1

Ortho Cardigan by Anna Fedorova


CONTENTS

BUST DARTS AND SHORT ROWS CHART SYMBOLS . . . 14

PATTERN INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

STRANDED COLORWORK CHART SYMBOLS . . . . . . . . . . 14

SCHEMATICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

CHARTS, DETAILED SCHEMATICS AND TABLES . . . . 15

NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

BODY SCHEMATIC (SHORT OPTION) . . . . . . . . . . . 15

ABOUT SELVEDGE STITCHES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

BODY SCHEMATIC (LONG OPTION) . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

ABOUT STRANDED COLORWORK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

BODY NUMBERS TABLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

ABOUT BUST DARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

LONG SEEDLINGS CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

STITCH PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

SHORT SEEDLINGS CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

SPECIAL TECHNIQUES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

BUST DARTS TABLE AND CHARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

ABBREVIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

YOKE SCHEMATIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

BODY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

YOKE NUMBERS TABLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

YOKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

TREES CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

COLLAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

SHORT ROWS CHARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

SLEEVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

LAST DECREASES CHARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

BUTTONHOLE BAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

BANDS NUMBERS TABLE (LONG OPTION) . . . . . . 31

BUTTON BAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

BANDS NUMBERS TABLE (SHORT OPTION) . . . . . 32

FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2020

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PATTERN INFORMATION Finished Dimensions Size Centimeters at Bust Inches at Bust

S1

S2

93.6

99.2

36 3⁄4

39

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL

105.3 111.4 116.6 123.1 129.2 41 1/2

43 3/4

46

48 1/2

50 3/4

Intended Positive Ease: 9 - 10 cm / 3 1/2 - 4” Shown in size S2 with 9 cm of positive ease

It is recommended to swatch both in st st and stranded colorwork to find out which sizes of needles to use in each case. Additional Tools Stitch markers, two safety pins (or two locking stitch markers) for short rows, 4 mm crochet hook, smooth waste yarn for Provisional Cast On, blunt tapestry needle for Tubular Bind Off and weaving in ends, T-pins for blocking

Materials Fingering weight wool yarn in the following approximate amounts: Long Option (MC - Main Color, CC - Contrast Color): Size MC (m) CC (m) MC (yds) CC (yds)

Gauge 23 stitches & 36 rows = 4” / 10 cm in stockinette stitch with 4 mm needles, after blocking 29 stitches & 31rows = 4” / 10 cm in stranded colorwork with 4 mm needles, after blocking

S1 1700 220 1860 240

S2 1780 230 1950 250

M1 1880 240 2060 265

M2 1990 255 2180 280

L1 2105 270 2305 295

L2 2225 285 2435 315

XL 2355 300 2580 330

1360 175 1490 195

1425 185 1560 205

1505 195 1650 215

1595 205 1745 225

1685 215 1845 235

1785 225 1955 250

1885 240 2065 265

Level Advanced

Short Option: MC (m) CC (m) MC (yds) CC (yds)

Long Option shown in Aade Lõng Solid 8/2, colors Light Lila (MC) and Aqua Mono Dark (CC); Short Option shown in Aade Lõng Solid 8/2, color Medium Blue (MC) and Aade Lõng Natural 8/2, color Light Gray (CC) Needles 4 mm (for stockinette stitch and colorwork), 3.5 mm (for ribbing), 2 mm (for double knitting) circular needles All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2020

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SCHEMATICS

93.6 (99.2, 105.3, 111.4, 116.6, 123.1, 129.2) cm Body Circumference at Bust with Buttons Fastened 45.3 (46.2, 47, 48.8, 49.7, 51.4, 52.3) cm Lower Collar Circumference

LONG OPTION

18.9 (19.5, 20, 20.6, 21.7, 22.3, 23.4) cm Yoke Depth at Front

12

.3 c

m

7 cm Collar Depth

33.8 (34.5, 35.1, 36.4, 37.1, 38.4, 39) cm Upper Collar Circumference

34.3 (36.1, 38.3, 40.4, 42.2, 44.3, 46.5) cm Upper Arm Circumference

22.8 (23.9, 24.5, 25.6, 26.7, 27.8, 28.9) cm Yoke Depth at Back

gth 9 cm 38. ve Len e Sle

76.4 (77.6, 78.1, 79.2, 80.3, 81.4, 82.6) cm Body Length at Back

cm th 4.5 Leng ff Cu

49.1 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)

.1)

7.7 cm 4.5 cm Ribbing Length

cm

, 25

5.2

3, 2 24. , 3 . e , 24 nc 3.5 mfere 2 ( 5 u 23. Circ ff Cu

26 .2,

106.1 (113, 119.9, 123.3, 130.2, 137.1, 144) cm Body Circumference at Bottom with Buttons Fastened

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93.6 (99.2, 105.3, 111.4, 116.6, 123.1, 129.2) cm Body Circumference at Bust with Buttons Fastened 45.3 (46.2, 47, 48.8, 49.7, 51.4, 52.3) cm Lower Collar Circumference

SHORT OPTION

18.9 (19.5, 20, 20.6, 21.7, 22.3, 23.4) cm Yoke Depth at Front

12

.3

cm

7 cm Collar Depth

33.8 (34.5, 35.1, 36.4, 37.1, 38.4, 39) cm Upper Collar Circumference

34.3 (36.1, 38.3, 40.4, 42.2, 44.3, 46.5) cm Upper Arm Circumference

22.8 (23.9, 24.5, 25.6, 26.7, 27.8, 28.9) cm Yoke Depth at Back

58.7 (59.8, 60.4, 61.5, 62.6, 63.7, 64.8) cm Body Length 31.4 cm at Back Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)

h

gt 9 cm 38. ve Len e Sle

cm th 4.5 Leng ff u C

4.5 cm Ribbing Length 3.9 cm

.1)

99.2 (106.1, 113, 116.4, 123.3, 130.2, 137.1) cm Body Circumference at Bottom

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4. 3, 2 ce . 4 2 en r .5, (23 umfe 5 . 23 Circ ff Cu

cm

5

2, 2

5. 3, 2

26 .2,

5


NOTES • Garment is worked back and forth in one piece from the bottom up. Underarm stitches are placed on hold after working the Body. Stitches are cast on for the Sleeves, and work continues over the Yoke stitches. Sleeves are worked in the round from the top down after completion of the Yoke. • Raglan shaping is worked at the beginning of the Yoke allowing Body and Sleeves to curve around the underarm. Circular yoke construction is used after that. The top of the Yoke is shaped with short rows to scoop flatteringly at the front neck. • Bust darts are added for a better fit. • Garment uses a Tubular Cast On and Bind Off to create a neat edge for double knitting.

ABOUT SELVEDGE STITCHES It is recommended to use • a stockinette selvedge for ribbing and stockinette stitch (knit the first and last stitch of every row on the right side and purl them on the wrong side); • Slip knit Distitch selvedge (open) by Assia Brill for stranded knitting (it has to be worked for each of two strands alternately, the result looks this way); • tubular selvedges for button bands.

ABOUT STRANDED COLORWORK • There are two stranded knitting motifs: (Long and Short) Seedlings and Trees. • The stranded motifs involve rather long floats. It is recommended to trap them leaving floats no more than four stitches wide and placing traps so that there is at least one stitch column between trapped floats in consecutive rounds. The chart of each motif is given with recommendations of places for traps. • Switching from one color to the other, we either bring the new color over or under the old color. Yarn brought over (background yarn) will make All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2020

tighter stitches. Yarn brought under (dominant yarn) will make looser stitches. The CC yarn should be dominant throughout all the stranded charts.

ABOUT BUST DARTS Bust Darts’ depth is calculated to be about 50% of bust darts’ depth for a close fitting garment made of woven fabric because of a stretchiness of the knitted fabric and a rather big positive ease. You can change the Bust Dart’s depth using the Bust Darts Chart as a guide.

STITCH PATTERNS Flat 1 x 1 Ribbing (odd number of stitches; 2-rows repeat) Row 1: selvedge, [p1, k1] repeat to the last stitch before the selvedge, p1, selvedge. Row 2: selvedge, [k1, p1] repeat to the last stitch before the selvedge, k1, selvedge. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for pattern. Flat 1 x 1 Ribbing (even number of stitches; 2-rows repeat) Row 1: selvedge, [p1, k1] repeat to the end of row, selvedge. Row 2: selvedge, [k1, p1] repeat to the end of row, selvedge. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for pattern. 1x1 Ribbing In The Round (even number of stitches; 1-round repeat) Round 1: [k1, p1], repeat to the end of round. Repeat Round 1 for pattern.

6


Double Knitting 1 Row 1: [k1, yo] repeat to the last stitch. Knit the last stitch. Row 2: [sl1 wyif, k1] repeat to the last stitch. Slip the last stitch. Row 3: [k1, sl1 wyif ] repeat to the last stitch. Knit the last stitch. Row 4: repeat Row 2. Double Knitting 2 Row 1: selvedge, [p1, yo] repeat to the last stitch before the selvedge, p1, yo, selvedge. Row 2: selvedge, [p1, sl1 wyib] repeat to the end of row, selvedge. Row 3: repeat row 2. Row 4: repeat row 2.

1. Attach a pin around the running yarn. 2. Turn the work so the wrong (right) side is facing. 3. Slip the first stitch from the left needle to the right needle purlwise without working it with yarn in front (back). 4. Continue in purl (knit). Check that the pin is clipped around the strand of yarn between the slipped stitch and the next stitch. Closing the Gap, starting from RS (WS): If you see the symbol RS: WS:

Double Knitting 3 (odd number of stitches)

do the following:

Row 1: selvedge, [sl1 wyif, k1] repeat to the last stitch before the selvedge, sl1 wyif, selvedge. Row 2: selvedge, [k1, sl1 wyif ] repeat to the last stitch before the selvedge, k1, selvedge.

1. Knit (purl) to the gap. 2 (RS). Pull on the pin to place the loop untwisted onto the left needle. Remove the pin. Knit 2 stitches together (the loop and next stitch). 2 (WS). Using the right needle, reorient the next stitch on the left needle so it lays left arm forward. Pull on the pin to place the loop onto the left needle, also left arm forward. Remove the pin. Purl these 2 stitches together (the loop and next stitch) from this position.

Double Knitting in the round (even number of stitches) Round 1: [k1, sl1 wyif ] repeat to the end of round. Round 2: [sl1 wyib, p1] repeat to the end of round.

SPECIAL TECHNIQUES Japanese Short Rows

ABBREVIATIONS CO cast on sts stitches

Attaching a Pin, starting from RS (WS):

k knit

At the point of turning, where you see the symbol

p purl yo yarn over

do the following:

sl1 wyif slip 1 stitch with yarn in front sl 1 wyib slip 1 stitch with yarn in back

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7


k2tog knit 2 stitches together (single right-leaning decrease)

BODY

ssk slip next 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, pass them back onto lefthand needle, then knit through back loops together (single left-leaning decrease)

Tubular Cast On

p2tog purl 2 stitches together (single right-leaning decrease) RS right side WS wrong side MC main color CC contrast color BOR beginning of round Rnd round

Step 1: Cast On Your Waste Yarn Choose a waste yarn in a contrasting color to your project yarn. The yarn should have a similar thickness to your project yarn and should be as smooth as possible. With 4 mm circular needle, chosen waste yarn and your preferred cast on method, loosely cast on Size Long Option Short Option

S1

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL sts

Step 2: Work Foundation Rows

sm slip marker

Change to 2 mm circular needle. Work of Double Knitting 1. Note that Row 1 is worked directly into your waste yarn stitches with your MC project yarn.

Rt right

Upon completion of

pm place marker

Lt left

you will have a total of

Long Option Short Option

sts

on your needle. Ribbing Change to 3.5 mm circular needle. Work in Flat 1 x 1 Ribbing for

.

Stranded Colorwork (Seedlings Chart) Change to 4 mm circular needle and join in CC yarn.

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sts

8


Next Row: Work Row 1 of Long Seedlings Chart (Long Option) or Short Seedlings Chart (Short Option): knit AB and BC sections. Knit CD section X times. Knit DE and EF sections. Work as established through Row Row of Short Seedlings Chart.

of Long Seedlings Chart or through

Stockinette Continue in MC only

Size Size Long Option Short Option

S1

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL

This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern Long Option to view this content. Short Option

Long Option Short Option

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Long Option Short Option This is sts

S1

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL

a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern Long Option to view this content. Short Option

row more times

sts

rows

9


Size

S1

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL

Long Option Short Option

rows

Rt (Lt) Front Underarm Back Selvedge

sts

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Work Rows

of Bust Darts Chart.

Work in stockinette stitch even for when you encounter it).

rows (slip marker

YOKE Stockinette Division Row: • Purl to marker, sm, • transfer next • CO provisionally • purl to marker, sm, • transfer next arm, • CO provisionally • purl to the end of row.

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sts to waste yarn for Left Underarm, sts for Left Sleeve, sm, sts to waste yarn for Right Understs for Right Sleeve, sm,

Upon completion of this row you will have a total of sts on your needle.

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Size Rt (Lt) Front Rt (Lt) Sleeve Back Selvedge

S1

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL sts

10


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Change to 2 mm circular needle. Work

of Double Knitting 2.

Change to 3.5 mm circular needle. Next row: p1 (selvedge), [p2tog] repeat to the last stitch, p1 (selvedge).

Stranded Colorwork (Trees Chart)

Work in Flat 1 x 1 Ribbing for

Join in CC yarn. Next Row: Work Row 1 of Trees Chart. Knit AB and BC sections. Knit CD section X times. Knit DE and EF sections. Work as established through

COLLAR

of Trees Chart.

Upon completion of Trees Chart you will have a total of sts on your needle. Stockinette Continue in MC only.

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.

Change to 2 mm circular needle. Work 2 rows of Double Knitting 3. Bind off all stitches using Tubular Bind-Off.

SLEEVES Note: Many knitters work more tightly in the round than when working back and forth. It is recommended to swatch in the round before knitting the sleeves to choose the correct needle size to achieve the required gauge. Undo Provisional CO, placing live stitches on 4 mm circular needle. Note that you will have two “half-stitches” at the very edges, and the total number of live stitches, including these half-stitches, will be 1 stitch more than the number of provisionally casted on ones stitches. Retrieve the underarm stitches put on hold stitches. Distribute sleeve stitches on the needle so that the beginning of the round is in the middle of the underarm (see the schematic on the next page). Note: The first round of Sleeve uses Tricorner method by Natalia Vasilieva. It helps to prevent holes at the sides of an underarm.

Work Rows

of Short Rows Chart.

Upon completion of Short Rows Chart you will have a total of sts on your needle. Next Row - Decrease Row: Work Last Decreases Chart. Upon completion of this row you will have a total of sts on your needle. All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2020

Next Rnd: • Rejoin yarn, place BOR marker, . • Find the “main body” stitch after the retrieved stitches. Insert the crochet hook into this stitch, beneath its left leg, and down back to RS, then turn the hook to twist the loop to the left. Pull remaining right leg of the same “main body” stitch through the loop, then place the resulting stitch onto the left needle. Work it as usual. 11


...

...

yoke stitch

...

underarm stitch

...

...

...

• Work the “half-stitch” crossed to the right to close the gap (you may need to reorient the “half-stitch”). . • Work the next “half-stitch” crossed to the left to close the gap (you may need to reorient the “half-stitch”). • Find the next “main body” stitch before the retrieved stitches. Insert the crochet hook into this stitch, beneath its right leg (which may appear “left” to you since you look at it upside down), and up back to RS, then turn the hook to twist the loop to the right. Pull remaining left leg of the same “main body” stitch through the loop, then place the resulting stitch onto the left needle and work it as usual. . All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2020

...

...

.. . ...

You will have a total of completion of this round. Knit

sts on your needle after

rounds, slipping marker when you encounter it.

Next Rnd - Sleeve Decrease Rnd: sm, k1, ssk, knit until 3 stitches remain in round, k2tog, k1 (2 stitches decreased). Repeat the Sleeve Decrease Round every more times. You will have a total of completion of sleeve decreases. Knit

round sts on your needle after

rounds. 12


Ribbing Change to 3.5 mm circular needle.

Work in 1x1 Ribbing In The Round for

rounds.

Change to 2 mm circular needle. Work in Double Knitting in the Round for 2 rounds. Bind off all stitches using Tubular Bind-Off. Repeat above instructions for second Sleeve.

Size

Note: You can use this tutorial about picking up stitches. S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL sts

XL

Long Option Short Option

sts

Long This Optionis a preview version of the pattern. ShortPlease Option buy the full version of the pattern

sts

to view this content.

S1

Long Option Short Option

BUTTONHOLE BAND

S1

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Work in Flat 1 x 1 Ribbing with tubular selvedges for 11 rows working 6-9 TULIPS buttonholes evenly spaced in the row (place one of the buttonholes right at the apex of the bust). Bind off all stitches using Tubular Bind-Off.

BUTTON BAND Work the same way as Buttonhole Band but starting picking up stitches at the top of Left Front Opening and without buttonholes. Sew buttons to correspond to each of the buttonholes.

FINISHING Remove the waste yarn. Weave in all ends on the WS of fabric. Wet-block garment to finished dimensions. All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2020

13


BUST DARTS AND SHORT ROWS CHART SYMBOLS

STRANDED COLORWORK CHART SYMBOLS

k1

k1 with MC

p1

k1 with MC, trapping CC yarn

x sts

knit x stitches

x sts

purl x stitches

attach a pin

k1 with CC k2tog with MC no stitch

slip stitch purlwise k2tog ssk no stitch close the gap (RS) close the gap (WS)

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14


CHARTS, DETAILED SCHEMATICS AND TABLES

BODY SCHEMATIC (SHORT OPTION)

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15


BODY SCHEMATIC (LONG OPTION)

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16


BODY NUMBERS TABLE Note: This table does not include the selvedge stitches. Size Ribbing sts (G) Stranded Colorwork sts (H) Single Color Stockinette sts (I)

S1

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL

Long Option Short Option Long Option Short Option Long Option Short Option

Back sts (J) Right/Left Front sts (K) Right/Left Underarm sts (L) Back sts decreased (M) Front sts decreased (N)

Long Option Short Option Long Option

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Short Option Long Option

P rows

Short Option Long Option

Q rows

Short Option Long Option

R rows

Short Option S rows T rows

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17


LONG SEEDLINGS CHART Note: This chart does not include the selvedge stitches.

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Size

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S1

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL

18


SHORT SEEDLINGS CHART Note: This chart does not include the selvedge stitches.

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S1

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL

19


BUST DARTS TABLE AND CHARTS Note: The table and bust darts charts do not include the selvedge stitches. Size

S1

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL

Back sts (J) Right/Left Front sts (K) Right/Left Underarm sts (L) U sts

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V sts

Bust Darts Chart, Sizes M2, L1

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20


Bust Darts Chart, Size S1

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Bust Darts Chart, Sizes S2, M1

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21


Bust Darts Chart, Sizes L2, XL

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22


YOKE SCHEMATIC

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23


YOKE NUMBERS TABLE Note: This table does not include the selvedge stitches. Size

S1

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL

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24


TREES CHART Note: This chart does not include the selvedge stitches.

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Size

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S1

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL

25


SHORT ROWS CHARTS Short Rows Chart, Size S1 This chart does not include the selvedge stitches. All odd-numbered rows fall on the RS of fabric and are read from right to left. All even-numbered rows fall on the WS of fabric and are read from left to right.

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26


Short Rows Chart, Sizes S2, M1 This chart does not include the selvedge stitches. All odd-numbered rows fall on the RS of fabric and are read from right to left. All even-numbered rows fall on the WS of fabric and are read from left to right. The numbers in the parentheses refer to the larger size. When only one number is given, it applies to both sizes.

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27


Short Rows Chart, Sizes M2, L1 This chart does not include the selvedge stitches. All odd-numbered rows fall on the RS of fabric and are read from right to left. All even-numbered rows fall on the WS of fabric and are read from left to right. The numbers in the parentheses refer to the larger size. When only one number is given, it applies to both sizes.

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28


Short Rows Chart, Sizes L2, XL This chart does not include the selvedge stitches. All odd-numbered rows fall on the RS of fabric and are read from right to left. All even-numbered rows fall on the WS of fabric and are read from left to right. The numbers in the parentheses refer to the larger size. When only one number is given, it applies to both sizes.

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29


LAST DECREASES CHARTS This chart does not include the selvedge stitches.

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30


BANDS NUMBERS TABLE (LONG OPTION) Pick up 7 stitches for every 9 rows of stockinette stitch. Size

S1

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL

Long Seedlings

This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content. Trees

All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2020

31


BANDS NUMBERS TABLE (SHORT OPTION) Pick up 7 stitches for every 9 rows of stockinette stitch. Size

S1

S2

M1

M2

L1

L2

XL

Short Seedlings

Trees

All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2020

This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content.

32


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