Paralleli Pullover by Anna Fedorova
CONTENTS PATTERN INFORMATION SCHEMATICS NOTES ABOUT CHARTS AND DETAILED SCHEMATICS ABOUT YOKE DEPTH ABOUT BUST DARTS STITCH PATTERNS SPECIAL TECHNIQUES ABBREVIATIONS UPPER YOKE SHORT ROWS LOWER YOKE BODY SLEEVES FINISHING CHART SYMBOLS CHARTS and DETAILED SCHEMATICS: Size S1: Yoke Schematic and Charts Body Schematics, Bust Darts Chart, Short Sleeve Chart Size S2: Yoke Schematic and Charts Body Schematics, Bust Darts Chart, Short Sleeve Chart Size M1: Yoke Schematic and Charts Body Schematics, Bust Darts Chart, Short Sleeve Chart Size M2: Yoke Schematic and Charts Body Schematics, Bust Darts Chart, Short Sleeve Chart Size L1: Yoke Schematic and Charts Body Schematics, Bust Darts Chart, Short Sleeve Chart Size L2: Yoke Schematic and Charts Body Schematics, Bust Darts Chart, Short Sleeve Chart All Sizes: Long Sleeve Schematic All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019
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PATTERN INFORMATION Finished Dimensions Size Inches at Bust Centimeters at Bust
S1 35.8 91
S2 37.4 95
M1 39 99
M2 40.5 103
L1 42.1 107
L2 43.7 111
Intended Ease: + 2” / 5 cm Shown in size S2 with 5 cm of positive ease Materials DK weight cotton/rayon blend yarn in the following approximate amounts: 855 (900, 950, 1000, 1060, 1120) yards / 780 (825, 870, 915, 970, 1020) m (short sleeve version), 985 (1035, 1080, 1145, 1205, 1260) yards / 900 (945, 990, 1045, 1100, 1155) m (long sleeve version) Garnstudio DROPS Belle (120 meters / 50g): 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9) balls (short sleeve version), 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) balls (long sleeve version) The short sleeved sample is knit in Garnstudio DROPS Belle, color 13 (Tumma Farkunsininen). The long sleeved sample is knit in Infinity.Design Cotton Merino, color 6032 (Lignt Blue Melert). Needles 5 mm (for stockinette stitch in the round), 4.5 mm (for garter stitch, short rows and ribbing), 3 mm (for the last row of Upper Yoke Chart), 2.5 mm (for double knitting worked in the round), 2 mm (for Long Tail Tubular Cast On and double knitting worked flat) circular needles Gauge 21 stitches & 28 rounds = 4” / 10 cm in stockinette stitch in the round with 5 mm needles, after blocking Swatch both in the round and flat (for short rows) to find out which sizes of needles to use in each case so that your gauge is consistent throughout. Additional Tools Stitch markers, two safety pins (or two locking stitch markers) for short rows, 5 mm crochet hook and smooth waste yarn for Provisional Cast On, cable needle, blunt tapestry needle for Tubular Bind Off and weaving in ends, T-pins for blocking Level Intermediate
All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019
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SCHEMATICS 91 cm Body Circumference at Bust 16.9 cm Neck Width 31.9 cm Upper Arm Circumference
26 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)
17.7 cm Yoke Depth at Front
th cm eng 3.5 eve L Sle m c gth 6.5 Len ff Cu
Size
th
58.2 cm Body Length at Back
e Depth
4 cm
34 Sle cm eve Len g
22.7 cm Yoke Depth at Back
8.7 cm Upper Yo k
S1
e nc
re
m mfe .5 c cu 30 ff Cir Cu
6.5 cm Ribbing Length
9.5 Cu cm ff L en gt
h
9.5 cm Ribbing Length 23 Cu cm ff C ircu m
fer e
nce
29 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)
99 cm Body Circumference at Bottom
95 cm Body Circumference at Bust 17.4 cm Neck Width 33 cm Upper Arm Circumference
26 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)
18.5 cm Yoke Depth at Front
th cm eng 3.5 eve L Sle m c gth 6.5 Len ff Cu
Size
th
59 cm Body Length at Back
e Depth
4 cm
34 Sle cm eve Len g
23.5 cm Yoke Depth at Back
9.2 cm Upper Yo k
th nce
29 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)
6.5 cm Ribbing Length
9.5 Cu cm ff L en g fer e
e nc
re
m mfe .5 c ircu 0 3 ff C Cu
9.5 cm Ribbing Length
23 Cu cm ff C ircu m
S2
102.8 cm Body Circumference at Bottom
All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019
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99 cm Body Circumference at Bust 17.8 cm Neck Width 33.8 cm Upper Arm Circumference
26 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)
19.2 cm Yoke Depth at Front
th cm eng 3.5 eve L Sle m c gth 6.5 Len ff Cu
Size
th
59.7 cm Body Length at Back
e Depth
4 cm
34 Sle cm eve Len g
24.2 cm Yoke Depth at Back
9.2 cm Upper Yo k
M1
e nc
re
m mfe .4 c ircu 2 3 ff C Cu
6.5 cm Ribbing Length
9.5 Cu cm ff L en gt h
9.5 cm Ribbing Length 23 Cu cm ff C ircu m
fer e
nce
29 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)
107 cm Body Circumference at Bottom
103 cm Body Circumference at Bust 18 cm Neck Width 35.7 cm Upper Arm Circumference
26 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)
19.3 cm Yoke Depth at Front
th cm eng 3.5 eve L Sle m c gth 6.5 Len ff Cu
Size
th
60.5 cm Body Length at Back
e Depth
4 cm
34 Sle cm eve Len g
25 cm Yoke Depth at Back
9.6 cm Upper Yo k
nce
29 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)
6.5 cm Ribbing Length
9.5 Cu cm ff L en gt h fer e
e nc
re
m mfe .4 c cu 32 ff Cir Cu
9.5 cm Ribbing Length 24 . Cu 8 cm ff C ircu m
M2
110.5 cm Body Circumference at Bottom
All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2019
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107 cm Body Circumference at Bust 18.8 cm Neck Width 36.7 cm Upper Arm Circumference
26 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)
20 cm Yoke Depth at Front
th cm eng 3.5 eve L Sle m c gth 6.5 Len ff Cu
Size
th
61.3 cm Body Length at Back
e Depth
4 cm
34 Sle cm eve Len g
25.8 cm Yoke Depth at Back
10 cm Upper Yo k
L1
e nc
re
m mfe .3 c ircu 4 3 ff C Cu
6.5 cm Ribbing Length
9.5 Cu cm ff L en gt h
9.5 cm Ribbing Length 24 . Cu 8 cm ff C ircu m
fer e
nce
29 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)
116.2 cm Body Circumference at Bottom
111 cm Body Circumference at Bust 19 cm Neck Width 38.6 cm Upper Arm Circumference
26 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)
20.9 cm Yoke Depth at Front
th cm eng 3.5 eve L Sle m c gth 6.5 Len ff Cu
Size
th
62.1 cm Body Length at Back
e Depth
4 cm
34 Sle cm eve Len g
26.6 cm Yoke Depth at Back
10.5 cm Upper Yo k
nce
29 cm Body Length to Underarm (without Bust Darts)
6.5 cm Ribbing Length
9.5 Cu cm ff L en gt h fer e
e nc
re
m mfe .2 c cu 36 ff Cir Cu
9.5 cm Ribbing Length 24 . Cu 8 cm ff C ircu m
L2
120 cm Body Circumference at Bottom
All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2019
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NOTES •• Garment is worked in one piece from the neck down. •• It uses an Italian Cast On and Italian Bind Off to create a neat edge for double knitting. •• The Upper Yoke utilizes a circular yoke construction. It is knit back and forth, beginning with of double knitting. It is worked in garter stitch after that. •• After completion of Upper Yoke Chart stitches are joined for knitting in the round. of double knitting are worked. •• The Yoke is then shaped with short rows to scoop flatteringly at the front neck. •• The Lower Yoke utilizes a seamless set-in sleeve construction which allows body and sleeves to curve around the underarm. •• Stitches are placed on hold for the Sleeves after working the Yoke. Stitches are cast on for the underarms, and work continues in the round over the Body stitches. Bust darts are knit for a better fit. •• Sleeves are worked after completion of the Body. You can choose either long sleeves or short ones.
ABOUT CHARTS AND DETAILED SCHEMATICS There are four detailed schematics (Yoke, Body (Short Sleeve Version), Body (Long Sleeve Version), Long Sleeve) and five charts (Upper Yoke, Short Rows, Lower Yoke, Bust Darts, Short Sleeve) for each size. Different colors correspond to different sizes: green - S1, blue - S2, purple - M1, red - M2, orange - L1, yellow - L2.
ABOUT YOKE DEPTH To shorten/lengthen yoke depth, omit/add rounds without increases evenly between the three sections: • This is a preview version of the pattern. • Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content. • Refer to the table below for these rounds: S1
S2
M1
M2
L1
L2
For example, to remove rounds in Size M1 yoke, omit round and rounds . To lengthen yoke depth by rounds in size L1 yoke, add rounds after round .
ABOUT BUST DARTS Bust Darts are drafted for B cup (Sizes S1, S2), C cup (Sizes M1, M2), and D cup (sizes L1, L2). To change cup size, use the Bust Darts Chart up or down a size. Position the chart symmetrically relative to the center front.
STITCH PATTERNS 2 x 2 Garter Ribbing (multiple of 4 number of stitches; 2-round repeat) Round 1: *k2, p2; repeat from * to the end of round. Round 2: knit. Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for pattern. All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019
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Garter Stitch (1-row repeat)
Flat Double Knitting (even number of stitches; 1-row repeat)
2 (WS). Using the right needle, reorient the next stitch on the left needle so it lays left arm forward. Pull on the pin to place the loop onto the left needle, also left arm forward. Remove the pin. Purl these 2 stitches together (the loop and next stitch) from this position.
Row 1: *k1, sl1 wyif; repeat from * to the end of row.
Note: To close the last gap when returning to knitting in the round, do the following:
Repeat Row 1 for pattern.
1. Work to one stitch before the gap. 2. Make sure that this stitch lays right arm forward. 3. Pull on the pin to place the loop onto the left needle, also right arm forward. 4. Remove the pin. Knit these 2 stitches together (the loop and next stitch) from this position.
Row 1: knit. Repeat Row 1 for pattern.
Double Knitting in the Round Round 1: *k1, yo; repeat from * to the end of round. Round 2: *sl 1 wyib, p1; repeat from * to the end of round. Round 3: *k1, sl1 wyif; repeat from * to the end of round. Round 4: repeat Round 2.
SPECIAL TECHNIQUES Japanese Short Rows Attaching a Pin, starting from RS (WS): At the point of turning, where you see the symbol
Increases Choose increase method which is most convenient for you. The sample sweaters use kfb (both left leaning and right leaning versions) for garter stitch and m1l, m1r for stockinette stitch.
ABBREVIATIONS CO cast on sts stitches k knit
do the following:
p purl
1. Attach a pin around the running yarn. 2. Turn the work so the wrong (right) side is facing. 3. Slip the first stitch from the left needle to the right needle purlwise without working it with yarn in front (back). 4. Continue in purl (knit). Check that the pin is clipped around the strand of yarn between the slipped stitch and the next stitch.
yo yarn over
Closing the Gap, starting from RS (WS): If you see the symbol RS: WS:
( , ( ,
sl1 wyif slip 1 stitch with yarn in front sl 1 wyib slip 1 stitch with yarn in back kfb knit into the front and back of a stitch m1l make one left (single left-leaning increase) m1r make one right (single right-leaning increase) sm slip marker BOR beginning of round
,
,
,
(
k2tog knit 2 stitches together (single right-leaning decrease)
,
,
,
(,
ssk slip next 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, pass them back onto left-hand needle, then knit through back loops together (single left-leaning decrease)
do the following: 1. Knit (purl) to the gap. 2 (RS). Pull on the pin to place the loop untwisted onto the left needle. Remove the pin. Knit 2 stitches together (the loop and next stitch). All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2019
RS right side WS wrong side 8
UPPER YOKE With 2 mm circular needle CO sts using the Italian Method. Note: When working flat, no additional selvedge sts are needed. Work the stitches on the edges of the fabric the same way as any other stitches in the row. Work of Flat Double Knitting. Change to 4.5 mm circular needle. Note: While joining the two layers of Double Knitting, place markers as shown in Upper Yoke Chart.
leaving enough of a tail that you can weave it in securely afterwards. You will have a total of sts on your needle after completion of Upper Yoke Chart: S1
Cut the yarn after completion of Upper Yoke Chart
M1
M2
L1
L2
Right Front Right Sleeve Back Left Sleeve Left Front
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This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content. Work Upper Yoke Chart (S1, S2, M1, M2, L1, L2) in Garter Stitch. Change to 3 mm circular needle after row . Remove all markers while working row .
S2
Next Round - Round 1 of Double Knitting: • • This is a preview version of the pattern. •
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•
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Work rounds of Double Knitting in the Round, slipping Marker 1 when you encounter it. You will have a total of sts on your needle after completing of Double Knitting. Change to 4.5 mm circular needle. Note: While joining the two layers of Double Knitting, place markers: • Marker 2 to separate Right Sleeve and Front; • Marker 3 to separate Front and Left Sleeve; • Marker 4 to separate Left Sleeve and Back. Refer to the previous page table for the numbers of stitches. Next Round: Slip Marker 1. Purl the stitches on the two layers of Double Knitting together to join them (you may need to reorient your stitches to do this). You will have a total of sts on your needle after completion of this round.
S2
M1
M2
L1
L2
Front Back
BODY Division Round: Slip Marker 1, transfer next sts to waste yarn for Right Sleeve, CO provisionally sts, slip Marker 2, knit to Marker 3, sm, transfer next sts to waste yarn for Left Sleeve, CO provisionally sts, slip Marker 4, knit to the end of round. You will have a total of sts on your needle after completion of Division Round: S1
S2
M1
M2
L1
L2
Underarm
SHORT ROWS
Front
Note: Slip the first stitch of the first short row to disguise the jog created by the round of purls. Work Short Rows Chart (S1, S2, M1, M2, L1, L2), slipping marker when you encounter it. You will have a total of stitches on your needle after completion of Short Rows: S1
S1 Sleeve
S2
M1
M2
L1
L2
Sleeve Front Back
LOWER YOKE Make sure that markers are in place. Change to 5 mm circular needle. Note: You will have 2 gaps on your needle after completion of Short Rows Chart. Close them in the 1st round of Lower Yoke. Work Lower Yoke Chart (S1, S2, M1, M2, L1, L2), knitting right sleeve sts, then front sts, then left sleeve sts, then back sts, slipping marker when you encounter it. You will have a total of sts on your needle after completion of Lower Yoke: All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019
Back
Knit rounds, slipping marker when you encounter it. Note: Work Bust Darts Chart when you reach your bust apex or a little higher. Next round (slip marker when you encounter it): • knit Right Underarm sts; • change to 4.5 mm circular needle; • work Bust Darts Chart (S1, S2, M1, M2, L1, L2); • change to 5 mm circular needle; • knit Left Underarm sts; • knit Back sts. Note: You will have 1 gap on your needle after completion of Bust Darts Chart. Close it in the next round. Short Sleeve Version only (S1, S2, M1, M2, L1, L2): Knit rounds, slipping marker when you encounter it.
Long Sleeve Version only (S1, S2, M1, M2, L1, L2): Knit rounds, slipping marker when you encounter it. 10
Next Round - Body Increase Round: Slip Marker 1, m1l, knit to Marker 2, m1r, sm, knit to Marker 3, sm, m1l, knit to Marker 4, m1r, sm, knit to the end of round.
S1
S2
M1
M2
Back
Garter Ribbing
Repeat the Body Increase Round every round more times.
Change to 4.5 mm circular needle.
Knit rounds, slipping marker when you encounter it.
Repeat the Body Increase Round every round more times. Sizes L1, L2 only: Knit rounds, slipping marker when you encounter it. Sizes L1, L2 only (both versions): Next Round - Body Increase Round: Slip Marker 1, knit to Marker 2, m1r, sm, knit to Marker 3, sm, m1l, knit to Marker 4, sm, knit to the end of round. You will have a total of sts on your needle after completion of body increases:
...
All sizes, except M2, L2: While knitting 1st round of Garter Ribbing, increase one stitch in the middle of Back. Upon completion of this round you will have a total of sts on your needle. Work in Garter Ribbing for • rounds (Short Sleeve Version); • rounds (Long Sleeve Version).
Long Sleeve Version only:
...
Change to 2.5 mm circular needle. Work rounds of Double Knitting in the Round. Bind off all stitches using Italian Bind Off.
SLEEVES Undo Provisional CO, placing live stitches on 5 mm circular needle. Note that you will have two “half-stitches” at the very edges, and the total number of live stitches, including these half-stitches, will be 1 stitch more than the number of provisionally casted on ones stitches. Retrieve the sleeve stitches put on hold stitches. Distribute sleeve stitches on the needle so that the beginning of the round is in the middle of the underarm (see the schematic).
...
yoke stitch underarm stitch
...
...
All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019
L2
Front
Short Sleeve Version only:
Sizes L1, L2 only:
L1
Underarm
...
...
.. . ...
...
11
Note: The first round of Sleeve uses Tricorner method by Natalia Vasilieva. It helps to prevent holes at the sides of an underarm.
Long Sleeve Version Only (S1, S2, M1, M2, L1, L2):
Knit rounds, slipping marker when Next Round: you encounter it. • Rejoin yarn, place BOR marker, . Next Rnd - Sleeve Decrease Rnd: • Work the “half-stitch” crossed to the right to close the gap (you may need to reorient the “half-stitch”). Repeat the Sleeve Decrease Round every • Find the “main body” stitch before the retrieved round stitches. Insert the crochet hook into this stitch, more times. beneath its right leg (which may appear “left” to you since you look at it upside down), and up You will have a total of back to RS, then turn the hook to twist the loop sts on your needle after completion of sleeve to the right. Pull remaining left leg of the same decreases. “main body” stitch through the loop, then place Knit rounds. the resulting stitch onto the left needle and work it as usual. Garter Ribbing • Knit retrieved stitches. Change to 4.5 mm circular needle. • Find the next “main body” stitch of the same round. Insert the crochet hook into this stitch, Note: While knitting 1st round of Garter Ribbing, beneath its left leg, and down back to RS, then decrease one stitch in the middle of the round. turn the hook to twist the loop to the left. Pull re- Upon completion of this round you will have a maining right leg of the same “main body” stitch total of sts on your needle. through the loop, then place the resulting stitch Work in Garter Ribbing for rounds. onto the left needle. Work it as usual. • Work the next “half-stitch” crossed to the left Change to 2.5 mm circular needle. Work rounds to close the gap (you may need to reorient the of Double Knitting in the Round. Bind off all stitch“half-stitch”). es using Italian Bind-Off. • . Repeat above instructions for second Sleeve. You will have a total of sts on your needle after completion of this round. Short Sleeve Version Only (S1, S2, M1, M2, L1, L2):
FINISHING Weave in all ends on the WS of fabric. Wet-block garment to finished dimensions.
Work Short Sleeve Chart, starting with round 2. You will have a total of sts on your needle after completion of Short Sleeve Chart. Garter Ribbing Change to 4.5 mm circular needle. Work in Garter Ribbing for rounds.
All images, text, and illustration © Anna Fedorova 2019
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CHART SYMBOLS
Size S1
Size S2
Size M1
Size S1
Size S2
Size M1
k1 marker placement (Upper Yoke)
knit specified number of stitches k1 (Upper Yoke) knit specified number of stitches (Upper Yoke, Lower Yoke)
pattern repeat (Upper Yoke)
p1 (Short Rows, Bust Darts) purl specified number of stitches (Short Rows, Bust Darts) ssk
All sizes
k2tog
no stitch
right leaning increase (RS)
attach a pin
left leaning increase (RS) right leaning increase (WS)
slip stitch purlwise
left leaning increase (WS) close the gap (RS) close the gap (WS)
All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2019
13
Size M2
Size L1
Size L2
Size M2
Size L1
Size L2
k1 knit specified number of stitches
marker placement (Upper Yoke)
k1 (Upper Yoke) knit specified number of stitches (Upper Yoke, Lower Yoke) p1 (Short Rows, Bust Darts)
pattern repeat (Upper Yoke)
purl specified number of stitches (Short Rows, Bust Darts) ssk k2tog right leaning increase (RS) left leaning increase (RS) right leaning increase (WS) left leaning increase (WS) close the gap (RS) close the gap (WS)
All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2019
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CHARTS AND DETAILED SCHEMATICS Yoke, Size S1
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Upper Yoke, Size S1
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Short Rows, Size S1
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Lower Yoke, Size S1
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Bust Darts, Size S1
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Body (Short Sleeve Version), Size S1
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Short Sleeve, Size S1
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Body (Long Sleeve Version), Size S1
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Yoke, Size S2
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Upper Yoke, Size S2
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Short Rows, Size S2
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Lower Yoke, Size S2
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Bust Darts, Size S2
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Body (Short Sleeve Version), Size S2
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Short Sleeve, Size S2
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Body (Long Sleeve Version), Size S2
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Yoke, Size M1
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Upper Yoke, Size M1
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Short Rows, Size M1
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Lower Yoke, Size M1
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Bust Darts, Size M1
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Body (Short Sleeve Version), Size M1
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Short Sleeve, Size M1
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Body (Long Sleeve Version), Size M1
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Yoke, Size M2
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Upper Yoke, Size M2
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Short Rows, Size M2
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Lower Yoke, Size M2
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Bust Darts, Size M2
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Body (Short Sleeve Version), Size M2
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Short Sleeve, Size M2
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Body (Long Sleeve Version), Size M2
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Yoke, Size L1
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Upper Yoke, Size L1
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Short Rows, Size L1
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Lower Yoke, Size L1
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Bust Darts, Size L1
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Body (Short Sleeve Version), Size L1
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Short Sleeve, Size L1
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Body (Long Sleeve Version), Size L1
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Yoke, Size L2
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All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2019
40
Upper Yoke, Size L2
This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content.
All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2019
41
Short Rows, Size L2
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Lower Yoke, Size L2
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All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2019
42
Bust Darts, Size L2
This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content.
Body (Short Sleeve Version), Size L2
This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content.
All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2019
43
Short Sleeve, Size L2
This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content.
Body (Long Sleeve Version), Size L2
This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content.
All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2019
44
Long Sleeve, Size S1
This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content.
All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2019
Long Sleeve, Size S2
This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content.
45
Long Sleeve, Size M1
This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content.
All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2019
Long Sleeve, Size M2
This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content.
46
Long Sleeve, Size L1
This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content.
All images, text, and illustration Š Anna Fedorova 2019
Long Sleeve, Size L2
This is a preview version of the pattern. Please buy the full version of the pattern to view this content.
47