Cosmetiscope - July 2015

SUMMER 2015 • Vol. 21 No. 6

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists

www.nyscc.org

Smarter Ways … by Steve Herman

Working hard and working smart sometimes can be two different things…Byron Dorgan

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dvances in science, technology, and information management can help us do things faster and smarter than was previously possible. Our experimental work will benefit from using effective ways of collecting and analyzing laboratory data. We can save time and money, two precious commodities, by using predictive computer programs to generate trustworthy estimates of chemical and toxicological properties. We can formulate much better products than those put on the market years ago if we proceed logically and understand the properties and functions of every ingredient being used.

Historically there are very few rules to follow in personal care formulation. Look at undergraduate textbooks in physics, chemistry, and biology. The physics book will be loaded with equations. The chemistry book will have some equations and quantitative relationships, but relatively more descriptive information. Biology is by far the least mathematically rigorous and most descriptive of the sciences. Personal care formulation resembles biology. Outside of HLB theory or Stoke’s Law, or a formula for neutralizing fatty acids and polymers, there are few set rules to guide the formulator.

Rigor has crept into cosmetic science over the years.

Where once a material was either polar or nonpolar, we now have Hanson Solubility Parameters and Clog P. We know more about formulating to deliver actives, and how the polarity of the oil phase impacts the SPF of a sunscreen.

Increasing the stability of a sunscreen molecule exposed to UV radiation using triplet quenching involves nothing less than quantum mechanics.

Let’s examine three examples of smarter ways of working: analyzing multiple variables using phase diagrams, using SMILES notation as an input tool to predict chemical properties using computer programs, and following the reasoning of a decision tree to establish the safety of aroma chemicals.

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2015 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 Kim.Burch@elementis.com

CHAIR-ELECT Rey Ordiales (732) 878-7798 reyordiales@outlook.com.

ADVISOR Steve Neidenberg sbn605@aol.com

HOUSE John Carola JohnC@protameen.com

MEMBERSHIP Amy Marshall (908) 806-4664 amy.marshall@altana.com

PROGRAM John Goffredo (201) 647-1841 jagformulators@gmail.com

COMMUNICATIONS Stephen Weinberg (973) 307-4854 WeinbergS@troycorp.com

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Wednesday, July 29th • Registration 11:00 a.m-12:30 p.m. • Shotgun Start 1:00 p.m.

Crystal Springs Resort 1 Wild Turkey Way, Hamburg, NJ 07419

SECRETARY Jenna Jelinski (201) 396-8431 jjelinski@morretec.com

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22nd Annual NYSCC Golf Outing!

TREASURER Marie Thadal (609) 712-3716 nyscctreasurerelect@gmail.com

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Course Phone: (855) 977-6473

Registe!r Early

Golf 180 $

per person.

Limited Space!

Includes: Box lunch, 18 holes of golf with cart, cocktail reception and dinner …plus door and skill prizes and gifts.

The outing is open on a first come first serve basis (the course has a limit).

You do not have to be an SCC member to play. Foursome reservations are now being accepted (but a foursome is not required).

Non-refundable payments must be received by July 15th.

The best and easiest way to register and make payment is using a credit card online at www.nyscc.org. Otherwise, please use the registration form below and checks should be made be payable to NYSCC. For information on the golf outing contact Hamel Dave at (973) 727-9916.

SPECIAL EVENTS

22nd Annual NYSCC Golf Outing!

Phil Klepak (973) 265-2869 pklepak@summitresearchlabs.com

Please complete this form and send it along with checks payable to NYSCC c/o:

COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

Payment enclosed ($180.00 per player) n Yes n No

Hamel Dave, SummitReheis, 40 Baldwin Road, Parsippany, NJ 07054 Name(s) ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

COSMETISCOPE ASSISTANT EDITOR

E-mail Address _________________________________________________________________________________________ Phone # _______________________________________________________________________________________________________

Joe Albanese (908) 456-2968 j.albanese@3vusa.com

Company ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING

Name #2 _____________________________________________________________________________________ Name #2 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________

Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com

Name #3 _____________________________________________________________________________________ Name #3 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________

COSMETISCOPE EMPLOYMENT

Name #4 _____________________________________________________________________________________ Name #4 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________

Jason O’Neill (631) 252-2939 Jason.Oneill@kemin.com

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GOLF: Name #1 _____________________________________________________________________________________ Name #1 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________

NOTE: A foursome is not required as we will combine groups if needed.

Please be sure to indicate your e-mail address if you would like to receive confirmation of your registration.

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New York SCC 60th Anniversary Gala Masquerade Ball October 24, 2015 Come help us celebrate and honor our past chapter chairs at a formal/black-tie optional Gala Masquerade Dinner/Dance event to be held at the Marriott Glenpointe in Teaneck, NJ on Saturday, October 24, 2015.

Cost: $100.00/person Cocktail reception begins at 6:00 PM Dinner and dancing to live music will follow.

Invitations will be sent to all New York Chapter Members and Suppliers.

If you have any old photos that you would like to contribute to this event, please send them to Kim Burch at chair@nyscc.org.

For more information about the event, contact‌.

Amy Marshall (908) 806-4664 Amy.marshall@altana.com

Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 kim.burch@elementis.com

Jenna Jelenski (908) 922-4539 jennajelinski@yahoo.com

Andrea Guerrero (862) 324-1063 aguerrero@gattefossecorp.com

John Carola (973) 879-7019 johnc@protameen.com

Gillian Ratto (732) 788-7320 gratto@rd.us.loreal.com

Like, Connect & Tweet About Us!

FACEBOOK: NYSCC LINKED IN: NYSCC MAINACCT TWITTER: NYSCCMAIN INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN These connections were made possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee

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Figure 1 Quaternary phase diagram.

Analyzing Multiple Variables Using Phase Diagrams Trial and error is the worst approach to a formulating challenge. Organizing data graphically can provide a roadmap and possibly reveal unexpected relationships. Multiple variables especially benefit from the use of phase diagrams. Assume there are four variables. They can be placed at the corners of a pyramid, and every point inside represents a possible combination. The result is a quaternary phase diagram (Figure 1).

Figure 2 A triangular slice out of the pyramid in Figure 1. This slice is a ternary diagram. Point P in this triangle represents 40% water, 20% oil, and 40% surfactant and co-surfactant.UVEHeffects.pdf.

Properties such as viscosity, micelle structures, tackiness or clarity can be data points. In this example we will explore areas of microemulsion formation. Figure 1 has oil, water, a surfactant (S), and a co-surfactant (CoS). To generate data we take a specific ratio of surfactant and co-surfactant, effectively taking a triangular slice out of the pyramid. Figure 2 shows this slice, now a ternary diagram. Point P in this triangle represents 40% water, 20% oil, and 40% surfactant and cosurfactant. Titrating water into a mixture of surfactants and oil can reveal areas of clear solutions in ratios where microemulsions are spontaneously formed.

Figure 3, from an article by Graham Barker, shows the use of a phase diagram to identify micelle structures in a stearate stick.1 Barker was able to identify the amount of water and sodium stearate necessary to make a rigid composition. This clearly shows how a phase diagram is the best way to present certain types of data and to see deeply into the fundamental properties of a formulation.

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Figure 3 Demonstration of the use of a phase diagram to identify micelle structures in a stearate stick. Reproduced from Reference 1.

SMILES Notation as an Input Tool to Predict Chemical Properties A key assumption in using computer models for predicting chemical properties is the validity of Structure-Activity Relationships (SARs). This allows us to compare a molecule that we don’t know about to a similar one with extensive data, a process known as “read-across.” We can also raise a red flag about a molecule if we identify a structural group in it that we know is present in a problem molecule. An example of predictive behavior is knowledge of how to design for biodegradation, for example, by having oxygen or an ester linkage built into the structure. Any relationship between a known molecule and an unknown one can provide valuable guidance.

A tool exists which allows us to predict many critical properties of a molecule, even one that has never been made. It is EPI Suite, and it is available free from the EPA.2 Going back 20 years, computer programs have been available to calculate various properties of molecules, and independent workers have developed separate modules on areas such as ecological toxicity and dermal permeability. All these programs have been conveniently merged into EPI Suite (Estimation Programs Interface).

To input a specific chemical into the program, the chemical name, CAS number, and, especially, SMILES Notation, is required. SMILES (Simplified Molecular Input Line Entry System) is simply a convention for transforming a chemical structure into a form that can be typed on a key pad. An obvious issue is that a computer does not have a key for a benzene ring. The original SMILES specification was developed at the EPA in the 1980s. In 2006 IUPAC introduced the InChI as a standard for formula representation. SMILES is more intuitive than InChI and also has an extensive range of useful software that accepts its input.

SMILES notation for common chemicals can readily be found by searching the Internet. For establishing SMILES notation for a new molecule there are rules to follow. A simple example is to use upper case for aliphatics, lower case for aromatics, and a number for the beginning and end of a ring. Thus bromobenzene becomes c1ccccc1Br. In aromatic rings, heteroatoms (o, s, and n) are also lower case.

Often, a number of equally valid SMILES strings can be written for a molecule. Ethanol can be CCO, OCC, or C(O)C. Algorithms have been developed that select a single SMILES string for a given molecule out of all the possible alternatives. For propylene glycol the CAS number is 57-55-6 and the SMILES notation is OCC(O)C. Put those in EPI Suite, hit “Calculate,” go to “All Results,” and pages of data appear. It can be converted to MS Word format by pressing a button. You will find the Henry’s Law constant, estimates of (Continued on page 6)

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solubility, biodegradation, bioaccumulation, and atmospheric oxidation, among other things. If you do the same thing with a new molecule it would give you a big jump on predicting its physical, toxicological, and ecological profile.

Figure 4 EPI Suite opening screen with propylene glycol input.

The HELP section of EPI Suite provides detailed descriptions of the separate modules and detailed instructions for creating and using SMILES notation. Each section is an education in itself. For example, the BIOWIN component describes the seven models used to predict biodegradation and includes extensive references and a bibliography. Figure 4 shows the opening screen of EPI Suite with the SMILES and CAS number inserted for propylene glycol.

Figure 5 ECOSAR (Ecological structure activity relationships) for propylene glycol.

Figure 5 shows the calculation for ECOSAR, the Ecological Structure Activity Relationship, which demonstrates the effect of the chemical on a variety of aquatic life forms. Figure 6 illustrates the output for 6

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fugacity. Fugacity provides information on where the chemical will partition in the environment, and it is an essential property for determining environmental impact.

Knowledge of fugacity, biodegradation, and aquatic toxicity combine to show a clear picture of the environmental effects of a chemical. If a molecule biodegrades quickly, its negative effects will have less chance to manifest itself. If a material is not water soluble, it will have less chance to kill fish even if it has high aquatic toxicity, since fish are unlikely to be exposed to a significant amount. Thus, the results of EPI Suite and some common sense go a long way towards forming an intelligent profile of a chemical.

Make Make Solvay Solvay your P artner for for Innovative Innovative Partner ormulation Solutions F Formulation New! JaguarŽ Optima – a unique, naturally derived solution that off ellent

Figure 6 ECOSAR output for fugacity.

Decision Tree Reasoning to Establish the Safety of Aroma Chemicals The RIFM (Research Institute for Fragrance Materials) is responsible for providing the industry with data on fragrance safety. A complete dossier of testing can be done on a molecule for about $1,000,000. There are over 3,000 materials in the database, so a direct assault on data acquisition would cost over $3 billion.

There must be a better way, and RIFM has been looking for refinements in its methods for many years.

Testing on animals is out of the question, so alternative measures must be taken. We need an approach that is quicker, less expensive, and scientifically beyond reproach. RIFM has just brought this up to date in its new criteria document, with the broad outline launched in December 2014 through a webinar.3 The criteria paper is still in press at this time.4 The basic ideas are easy enough for a layman to understand; it actually embraces a common sense approach to the subject. Some key concepts are end points, decision tree, read across, in silico, and TTC (Threshold of Toxicological Concern).

Fragrances are complex mixtures of chemicals. Ingredients can be single aroma chemicals or natural oils composed of a large number of chemicals, often in small quantities and varying from batch to batch.

Only ingredients, not the total compositions, are tested for safety. When a new fragrance material enters the system, the endpoint is the place where a decision is reached on safety. Endpoints that are established by RIFM for a fragrance material are genotoxicity, repeated dose toxicity, developmental and reproductive toxicity, skin sensitization, photoirritation and photoallergenicity, local respiratory toxicity, and environmental assessment.

A decision tree is a series of questions, which serves as a roadmap through the evaluation process.

Figure 7 has a partial, simplified decision tree for the first stage of a fragrance material assessment. At every juncture a question is posed, and either a decision is possible, ending the assessment process, or another step is taken.

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Figure 7 Fragrance assessment using the decision tree.

It is first necessary to evaluate the existing data. If there is enough, we are done. If not, we proceed to “read across.” Is our new material similar to another molecule we know about? If it is similar, and there is adequate data on the other molecule, we are finished. Confidence in using read across depends on the knowledge, experience, and judgment of the toxicologist making the decision.

The next step involves in vitro screens or in silico methods using predictive toxicology programs. In silico is a general term for using computer programs rather than performing experimental work. For toxicology studies, RIFM has access to Derek, MultiCASE, Topcat, and the OECD Toolbox. RIFM has an ongoing commitment to adding new toxicology programs if they prove applicable to the types of questions posed by fragrance chemicals. If this proves sufficient, we are at the endpoint; otherwise we go to the Threshold of Toxicological Concern (TTC). TTC has been developed to handle the thousands of chemicals we can now identify in minute quantities virtually anywhere. It originated in work by the FDA in 1995 for food products and additives. It calculates a safe level for most chemicals, even for most carcinogens, present in all food and ingested over a lifetime. Certain categories like heavy metals and endocrine disruptors are excluded, as no level is deemed safe.

Natural products are an example of compounds we cannot characterize completely, so the TTC is a useful approach to handling all the pesky little chemicals present. No chemical reaction runs to 100% completion, so every synthesized chemical we use has tiny byproducts. A way was desperately needed to deal with all these materials, and TTC is the answer. TTC is fundamentally an approach for prioritizing assessment of chemicals with low-level exposures. Three broad categories of materials are identified, shown in Table 1. The allowed exposure levels for each group are based on the decision tree work of Cramer and are: Cramer Group I – 1800 μg/day, Cramer Group II – 540 μg/day, and Cramer Group III – 90 μg/day.5 Table 1: Cramer classification scheme.

• Class I: Substances with simple chemical structures and for which efficient modes of metabolism exist, suggesting a low order of oral toxicity.

• Class II: Substances that possess structures that are less innocuous than class I substances, but do not contain structural features suggestive of toxicity like those substances in class III. 8

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• Class III: Substances with chemical structures that permit no strong initial presumption of safety or may even suggest significant toxicity or have reactive functional groups.

Concluding Remarks Graphical tools (e.g., phase diagrams), computer programs (e.g., EPI Suite), and decision trees, such as that used by RIFM, make our work more efficient, cut the time and costs of development or assessment, and allow us to better predict the safety and performance of the products we use. In a world that demands safety to humans and the environment, it cannot be ignored. And, to those developing the new chemicals that are the engines of new technologies, the insight we can gain early in the process is invaluable.

References 1. G. Barker, “Sodium stearate-based sticks: Proposed structure, Cosmet. Toil., 102(10), 71-80 (1987).

2. http://www.epa.gov/oppt/exposure/pubs/episuitedl.htm.

3. RIFM Webinar, Assessing the Safety of Fragrance Materials: What are the Criteria?, Dec. 17, 2014.

4. A.M. Api et al., “Criteria for the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials, Inc. (RIFM) safety evaluation process for fragrance ingredients,” Food Chem. Toxicol., S0278-6915(14)00481-5; doi: 10.1016/j.fct.

2014.11.014. [Epub ahead of print] (2014).

5. G. Cramer et al. “Estimation of toxic hazard—a decision tree approach,” Food Cosmet. Toxicol., 16, 25576 (1978).

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About the author:

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teve Herman is President of Diffusion LLC, a consulting company specializing in regulatory issues, intellectual property, and technology development. He has been an Adjunct Professor in the FDU Cosmetic Science Program since 1993, teaching the Cosmetic Formulation Lab and Perfumery. Steve was a columnist for GCI Magazine for 17 years and wrote a book, Fragrance Applications: A Survival Guide. His SCC activities include service as Chairman of the NY Chapter in 1992 and 2013, election to Fellow status in 2002, and instructor in the Continuing Education Program.

A t t e n t i o n

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M e m b e r s

Unemployed and Emeritus members may continue to attend monthly meetings free of charge.

Please contact the registration booth upon arrival. Unemployed members may also continue their membership free of charge by submitting the renewal form with unemployment details.

Please remember that the SCC Employment Service is here to assist you.

Contact: Jason O’Neill • E-Mail: Jason.Oneil@kemin.com

Call for Papers

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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice.

Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor.

Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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C BOTANICAL EMOLLIENTS & SPECIALTY PARTICLES

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Cosmetic & Toiletries Summit – Research & Discovery 2015

24/7 Online Ingredient Information:

www.floratech.com

Label The Natural Solution ®

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In the New York SCC Region:

Essential Ingredients Michael Manning 201.576.9382 mmanning@essentialingredients.com

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…Joe Albanese

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aced with declining attendance year-after-year, the Executive Board of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists decided to discontinue its mid-year Annual Scientific Meeting. Therefore, in June 2013, Area II of the SCC successfully hosted the very last one at Union Station in St. Louis, MO. Last year, Allured Global Events worked closely with the SCC, established its own Advisory Board,‡ and together created a new and exciting educational event to fill the void.

On June 22-23rd, the Second Annual C&T Summit returned to the beautiful Ivy League campus of the University of Pennsylvania. Conveniently located in Philadelphia, it is the perfect academic setting to prepare the brain for higher learning. Sandy Chapin, VP-Events at Allured, and her team brought us many industry experts in science and marketing to cover the theme of “Exploring the Future of Product Development.”

Rachel Grabenhofer, the Conference Program Director, welcomed everyone to this year’s C&T Summit.

Next, introducing the Keynote Speaker sponsored by the SCC was Tony O’Lenick, the 2015 President of The Society. Musician Jeffery Baxter of Steely Dan stimulated our thinking as he explained how he uses asymmetrical thinking to solve problems he faces as a National Security Expert at the U.S. Dept. of Defense, and how we can use those same techniques to inspire new products and resolve technical challenges.

Rounding out the first day were two concurrent sessions with speakers presenting on skin/sun and hair science. The following day we separated into four groups and rotated through four different and highly interactive workshops. This refreshing way to learn was not only educational, it was also a great deal of fun; trust me, no one was bored. More than 25 people stayed an extra day to learn from Dr. Roger McMullen as he instructed on Hair Science.

Attendance was up from the previous year and no doubt will continue to grow as the word spreads about the value of the program for scientists and marketers. However, Allured Global Events will suspend its C&T Summit next year, in support of the SCC, as the non-profit organization takes its turn hosting the IFSCC Conference. The 2016 IFSCC Conference will take place in October at Walt Disney World Resort in Orlando, Florida. The C&T Summit will return in June 2017. ‡

C&T Summit Advisory Board: Gabriella Baki, Ph.D. (University of Toledo) George Deckner (Consultant), S. Peter Foltis (L’Oréal), Josef Koester (BASF), Jim Lynch (Ultra Chemical), Tony O’Lenick (Siltech LLC and SCC President), Peter Tsolis (Estée Lauder and SCC Treasurer) and Karen Young (The Young Group and the Fashion Institute of Technology).

The following corporate sponsors supported the event: Platinum – BASF, Coptis Gold – AMA Laboratories, Coast Southwest, Induchem, Inolex, Lonza, Seppic, ShinEtsu Silver – Provital Group, Schulke, ULTRA

Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.

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The Safety in Regulatory Framework of the Cosmetic Industry: Simplified and Practical September 29, 2015

Location: Seasons, Washington Township, NJ Organizer and Moderator: Nava Dayan, Ph.D. Program overview:

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he Cosmetics and Personal Care Industry has gone through major changes in the past several decades. Regulators are in the process of a framework establishment to outline guidance for the protection of the consumer and the environment. There are three key factors for compliance: ethics, law, and science; combined to establish a launch to the marketplace. This workshop is put together with the aim of providing industry professionals with knowledge and basic guidance to this established framework in safety assessment and to examine the limitations and opportunities.

We believe that new market regulation should not be looked upon as a hindrance for market entrance, but rather as an opportunity to enter it! ______________________________________________________________

Agenda: 8:00 a.m. – 9:00 a.m.

Registration and breakfast

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9:00 a.m. – 10:00 a.m.

Safety assessment approach to comply with the animal testing ban – Nava Dayan Key aspect in skin toxicology: • Skin barrier and innate immunity • Site of application • Level of exposure • Duration of application • Skin condition

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10:00 a.m. – 11:00 a.m.

Legislation for Cosmetic Products in the European Union – Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 – Annelie Struessmann Key Aspects of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 • Area of applicability • The Regulation’s key goals and regulatory tools • Roles of responsibility • Pre-market requirements/in-market control The Product Information File (PIF) as primary tool for product compliance • PIF contents • Establishing and maintenance of the PIF • Specifics of the Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) • PIF function in regulatory compliance processes – benefits from diligent PIFs

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11:00 a.m. – 11:15 a.m.

Break

11:15 a.m. – 12:15 p.m.

North America Regulatory Status – Cosmetic Safety – Wen Schroeder • Market, consumers, and trendsetting milestones • Cosmetic safety in North America (U.S., Canada, Mexico) • Regulatory definition and requirements • What, who, why, when, and how?

• Self-regulatory framework • Compliance tools and strategy (Continued on page 12)

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The Safety in Regulatory Framwork of the Cosmetic Industry…(Continued from page 11) 12:15 p.m. – 1:15 p.m.

Lunch break

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1:15 p.m. – 2:00 p.m.

Key endpoint in testing – Nava Dayan • Skin irritation and sensitization • Photo-toxicity • Skin absorption

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2:00 p.m. – 2:45 p.m.

Status on Implementation of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 and Impact on Innovation – Annelie Struessmann • After the Regulation’s implementation deadline of July 2013 • Open issues • Solo activities by Member States • Future deadlines built into the regulatory text • Further future regulatory activities to be expected • Working with the Cosmetics Product Regulation • The Animal Testing Ban’s impact on product innovation • Overall judgment of the new regulatory framework

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2:45 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.

Break

3:00 p.m. – 3:45 p.m.

Asian Cosmetic Regulatory Status – Cosmetic Safety – Wen Schroeder • Market, consumers, and trendsetting milestones • Cosmetic safety in Asia (key regional representative countries) • Regulatory definition and requirements • What, who, why, when, and how?

• Self-regulatory framework • Compliance tools and strategy

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3:45 p.m. – 4:30 p.m.

Panel discussion – questions and answers

Educators’ Biographies Nava Dayan, Ph.D. Nava Dayan is the owner of Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C, a skin science and research consultancy serving the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and personal care industries; dermal and transdermal. Dr. Dayan offers consulting for product feasibility in skin care, composition of R&D plans covering efficacy and toxicology; planning, execution, and data interpretation into claims of experiments during the processes of drug discovery as well as formulations, delivery for improved efficacy and attenuated toxicity. Sample of expertise includes: drug-skin interaction, bio-markers (genomics and proteomics), skin/age related sensitivities, inflammatory skin disorders, innate immunity, and biota. She also conducts customized education classes. Dr. Dayan has 25 years of experience in the skin care segment, and has more than 150 publication credits in numerous industryrespected journals and in four books. She has been awarded the In-Cosmetics Gold Award for innovation and commensurate recognition from the NYSCC and the CRS for excellence.

Annelie Struessmann, Ph.D. Dr. Annelie Struessmann is Technical Regulatory Director with CONUSBAT, a provider of internationalization regulatory services for the Fine Chemicals, Cosmetics, and Toiletries industries: www.conusbat.com. She joined the firm in

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2003, and, based on many years of experience gained while working in the international cosmetics and ingredients industry, she established the service area for regulatory affairs, which became the core area for CONUSBAT. Focusing on the European regulatory frameworks for cosmetic products and for chemicals (REACH), she provides clients with compliance strategies, safety assessments, registrations, notifications, direct representations, etc. With a worldwide network of partners, the compliance services are expanded to a global scale. Dr. Struessmann publishes with various recognized journals in her area of expertise and provides workshops on a worldwide scale, as well as e-trainings. Before joining CONUSBAT she worked in various managerial functions at international locations of global companies, such as IFF, Akzo Nobel, Rewo (now Evonik), and DHW GmbH. Her educational background includes a Master’s Degree in Chemistry and a B.S. in Food Chemistry from the Technical University, RWTH, Aachen, Germany. Additionally, she received a Doctorate in Biopolymer Chemistry from the German Wool Research Institute (DWI) in Aachen, working on projects for Schwarzkopf (Germany) and Clairol (Stamford, CT, U.S.). From Clairol she was awarded the Company’s prestigious Gelb Foundation Fellowship.

Making Personal Personal Care Care Beautiful®

Specialty Silicones & Actives Skin Car Caree Caree Hair Car Color Cosmetics ®

www.biosiltech.com

Wen Schroeder Wen Schroeder is the founder and president of SEKI Cosmeticals. She is key expert for the ASEAN-EU Program for Regional Integration Support in cosmetic and pharmaceutical GMP and testing. Ms. Schroeder is scientific advisor to Taiwan External Trade Development Council and served for the Personal Care Products Council. She is active in the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and the Regulatory Affairs Professional Society. With 20+ years of industrial experience, 30 U.S. patents, and numerous publications, Ms. Schroeder is an internationally recognized lecturer on cosmetic science and regulatory affairs. Her lecture topics cover a wide range of areas including chemical management and biocide regulations to food, drug, and cosmetic law. Ms. Schroeder is the editor of the recently released book, Sustainable Cosmetic Product Development, published by Allured Books, which is the first comprehensive technical reference work in this field for the personal care industry.

DWI Leibniz-Institut für Interaktive Materialien HairS’15 19th International Hair Science Syposium Trier, Germany

September 2-4, 2015 Symposium Fee Early bird fees for registration and payment by August 1, 2015 are: • 770€ for participants • 590€ for DWI member companies • 330€ for speakers (one presenting author per oral presentation, no reduction for poster authors) Fee includes meals, coffee breaks, excursion, conference dinner, book of abstracts, and conference proceedings.

For more info: www.dwi.rwth-aachen.de.

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SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS DEDICATED TO THE ADVANCEMENT OF COSMETIC SCIENCE

SCC Continuing Education Program

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he Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Continuing Education Advisory Committee is delighted to announce that registration is now officially open for the courses listed below. The SCC is dedicated to providing interactive courses that serve the needs of professionals in our industry. CEP instructors are highly qualified industry experts. You will come away from these small, interactive courses having gained the knowledge needed to advance your professional development. To register, or to learn more, please visit www.scconline.org. If you have questions, please call 212-668-1500, or e-mail dscelso@scconline.org.

SILAB creates and manufactures unique, consistently safe, natural active ingredients with proven efficacy.

You need more information about our products?

Please contact our subsidiary SILAB Inc.: email: silabinc@silabinc.com phone: 732-335-1030

engineering natural active ingredients

REGISTER NOW – CLASS SIZE IS LIMITED! All courses will be at the SCC National Office in New York City unless otherwise noted below.

July 15 Surfactants August 24 – 25 NEW! Cosmetic Raw Materials For Skin Care Products August 17 Practical Basic & Theory in Emulsion Technology September 9-10 Regulatory Update September 30 – October 1 NEW! “Hands On Lab Experience” – Liquid Foundation Emulsion Technology, Toledo, Ohio October 6 NEW! Claims for Skin Care Products – From Biomarkers to Human Studies October 27 – 28 Introduction to Polymer Chemistry November 6 Scale-up and Processing Cosmetic Formulations December 9 Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry (in conjunction with SCC Annual Meeting), Hilton Hotel & Towers, New York City December 9 Gums, Thickeners, and Rheology Modifiers (in conjunction with SCC Annual Meeting), Hilton Hotel & Towers, New York City

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists CALL FOR MANUSCRIPTS

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he Society of Cosmetic Chemists is soliciting scientific manuscripts concerned with cosmetics or the sciences underlying cosmetics, as well as papers of interest to the cosmetic industry for publication in the Journal of Cosmetic Science, The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.

The JOURNAL will consider manuscripts for publication in the following categories, provided they are prepared in proper scientific style and adequately referenced: • Original articles • Review articles • Technical notes • General articles • Preliminary communications • Letters to the Editor SUBMISSION OF MANUSCRIPTS Manuscripts submitted for publication should be accompanied by a cover letter and sent via e-mail to dscelso@scconline.org. Additional information is available from the SCC National Office: www.scconline.org.

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Upcoming 2015 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org July 29 NYSCC Golf Outing, Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg, NJ September 24 Culinary Event, Midtown Loft, New York, NY September 29 Safety and Regulatory Workshop, Seasons, Washington Township, NJ October 24 NYSCC 60th Anniversary Party, Glennpointe Marriott, Teaneck NJ November 11-12 NYSCC Color Cosmetics Symposium, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, NY December 10 NYSCC Social Media Holiday Party, New York, NY

Make note of it…

Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: https://nyscc.org/employment/employment-listings/

n Senior Formulations/Technical Service Chemist Presperse Corporation Somerset, NJ

n Account Manager Sino Lion USA Florham Park, NJ

n Account Manager – Active Ingredients BASF The Chemical Company Florham Park, NJ

n Territory Sales Manager Botaneco, Inc. Northeastern United States

n Project Manager Process Technologies & Packaging Scranton, PA

n Personal Care Formulation Technician Inolex, Inc. Philadelphia, PA n Organic Lab Technician NeoStrata Company, Inc. Princeton, NJ

n Associate Organic Chemist NeoStrata Company, Inc. Princeton, NJ n Analytical Chemist NeoStrata Company, Inc. Princeton, NJ

n Sales & Marketing Manager Sino Lion USA Florham Park, NJ

n Account Manager Alzo International, Inc.

n Principal Formulation Chemist Spartan Brands, Inc. New York, NY n Account Manager Akzo Nobel Northeastern United Staes n FMI – Purchasing Agent FMI Allentown, PA

n Principal Scientist Johnson & Johnson Singapore 16

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