OCTOBER 2015 • Vol. 21 No. 8
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
www.nyscc.org
Maltobionic Acid: Formulating with a Patented, Naturally Derived Bionic Acid … by Lynn Murphy
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olyhydroxy acids (PHAs) and polyhydroxy bionic acids (bionics) are the second and third newest generations, respectively, of the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) chemical class of compounds. They are organic carboxylic acids, which possess two or more hydroxyl groups on an aliphatic or alicyclic molecular structure. When one of the hydroxyl groups is located at the alpha position, the molecule is a polyhydroxy AHA. When an additional sugar is attached to the PHA structure, the molecule is a bionic acid. Because they share the common AHA structure, PHAs and bionics provide the same anti-aging and skin-smoothing benefits as common AHAs, such as glycolic acid, but with added benefits stemming from the additional hydroxyl groups and the sugar moiety. Some of those added benefits are moisturization, barrier building, anti-glycation properties, matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) inhibition, protection from free radicals and chelation of metals.¹ Specifically sought after for its multiple proven benefits, maltobionic acid (MBA), a plant-derived polyhydroxy bionic acid is a powerful yet gentle anti-aging ingredient for skincare formulations.² It is formed by oxidation of maltose and is comprised of one molecule of D-glucose attached via an ethertype linkage to D-gluconic acid.¹ MBA has been clinically proven to deliver significant cutaneous anti-aging effects which include: increased skin thickness and plumping to provide skin smoothing effects, visual improvements in skin texture like clarity and roughness, increased skin firmness and elasticity, suppleness, and increased levels of hydration; all with no irritation.³ Most recently, maltobionic acid has been discovered to inhibit MMPs thereby preserving collagen and protecting skin cells from oxidative stress and photodamage.² Due to MBA’s hydrophilic properties and pKa value of 3.86, it needs to be formulated in low pH aqueous based products in order to achieve maximum efficacy. The low pH requirement (Continued on page 2)
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October 24, 2015 • Marriott Glenpointe, Teaneck, NJ