OCTOBER 2015 • Vol. 21 No. 8
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
www.nyscc.org
Maltobionic Acid: Formulating with a Patented, Naturally Derived Bionic Acid … by Lynn Murphy
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olyhydroxy acids (PHAs) and polyhydroxy bionic acids (bionics) are the second and third newest generations, respectively, of the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) chemical class of compounds. They are organic carboxylic acids, which possess two or more hydroxyl groups on an aliphatic or alicyclic molecular structure. When one of the hydroxyl groups is located at the alpha position, the molecule is a polyhydroxy AHA. When an additional sugar is attached to the PHA structure, the molecule is a bionic acid. Because they share the common AHA structure, PHAs and bionics provide the same anti-aging and skin-smoothing benefits as common AHAs, such as glycolic acid, but with added benefits stemming from the additional hydroxyl groups and the sugar moiety. Some of those added benefits are moisturization, barrier building, anti-glycation properties, matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) inhibition, protection from free radicals and chelation of metals.¹ Specifically sought after for its multiple proven benefits, maltobionic acid (MBA), a plant-derived polyhydroxy bionic acid is a powerful yet gentle anti-aging ingredient for skincare formulations.² It is formed by oxidation of maltose and is comprised of one molecule of D-glucose attached via an ethertype linkage to D-gluconic acid.¹ MBA has been clinically proven to deliver significant cutaneous anti-aging effects which include: increased skin thickness and plumping to provide skin smoothing effects, visual improvements in skin texture like clarity and roughness, increased skin firmness and elasticity, suppleness, and increased levels of hydration; all with no irritation.³ Most recently, maltobionic acid has been discovered to inhibit MMPs thereby preserving collagen and protecting skin cells from oxidative stress and photodamage.² Due to MBA’s hydrophilic properties and pKa value of 3.86, it needs to be formulated in low pH aqueous based products in order to achieve maximum efficacy. The low pH requirement (Continued on page 2)
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October 24, 2015 • Marriott Glenpointe, Teaneck, NJ
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2015 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 Kim.Burch@elementis.com
CHAIR-ELECT Rey Ordiales (732) 878-7798 reyordiales@outlook.com.
TREASURER Marie Thadal (609) 712-3716 nyscctreasurerelect@gmail.com
SECRETARY Jenna Jelinski (201) 396-8431 jjelinski@morretec.com
ADVISOR Steve Neidenberg sbn605@aol.com
HOUSE John Carola JohnC@protameen.com
MEMBERSHIP Amy Marshall (908) 806-4664 amy.marshall@altana.com
PROGRAM John Goffredo (201) 647-1841 jagformulators@gmail.com
COMMUNICATIONS Stephen Weinberg (973) 307-4854 webmaster@nyscc.org
SPECIAL EVENTS Phil Klepak (973) 265-2869 pklepak@summitresearchlabs.com
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
COSMETISCOPE ASSISTANT EDITOR Joe Albanese (908) 456-2968 j.albanese@3vusa.com
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Maltobionic Acid: Formulating with a Patented, Naturally Derived Bionic Acid
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(Continued from page 1)
References 1. B.A. Green and Y. Sabherwal, “Antiaging benefit ingredients: AHAs, PHAs and bionic acids” in Cosmeceuticals: Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology, 3rd ed., Ed. Z.D. Draelos, Elsevier: Amsterdam (2016). 2. I. Brouda, B.L. Edison, R.L. Weinkauf, and B.A. Green, “Maltobionic acid, a powerful yet gentle skincare ingredient with multiple benefits to protect skin and reverse the visible signs of aging.” Summer Academy Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology, Chicago, IL, August 4-8, 2010. Poster exihibit. 3. B.A. Green, B.L. Edison, and R. Wildnauer, “Maltobionic acid, a plantderived bionic acid for topical anti-aging,” 64th Annual American Academy of Dermatology Meeting, San Francisco, CA, March 4-6, 2006. Poster exihibit.
About the Author:
Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com
Lynn Murphy has a Bachelor’s of Science degree in Biology from Monmouth University and a Master of Arts in Cosmetic Chemistry from Fairleigh Dickinson University. Lynn holds two United States patents and currently works at NeoStrata Company Inc. in Princeton, New Jersey. She has been a part of the personal care industry for over 15 years and has a strong passion for product development formulation.
Jason O’Neill (631) 252-2939 Jason.Oneill@kemin.com
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specifically, often limits the use of some more traditional ingredients. Acidic thickeners, which require a higher pH and neutralization via alkaline base, may not function properly or will have limited efficiency. The best and most efficient thickeners for low pH systems are natural polysaccharides such as xanthan gum and cellulose ethers, smectite clays, and polymers based on polyacrylic acid that do not require neutralization. Furthermore, one must be mindful of the low pH environment when choosing emollients and fragrance. Small chain esters, often used as emollients and found in fragrance oils, can hydrolyze in acidic environments forming undesirable by-products, which may cause a color shift or a malodor. Posing another formulation challenge is the sugar moiety on maltobionic acid, which can cause stickiness in the final product and a dark brown color shift at elevated temperatures over time. The stickiness can often be overcome by including a branched, long chain ester, silicone oil, hydrocarbons, spherical powder, or combination thereof. The dark brown color shift, caused by oxidation or “caramelization” of the sugar, can be dramatically reduced, but not totally eliminated by adding a water-soluble antioxidant. In summary, maltobionic acid is a powerful yet gentle plant derived anti-aging ingredient that, despite minor formulation challenges, offers multiple simultaneous benefits. It is a moisturizer, antioxidant, and anti-aging active. Formulations containing maltobionic acid can improve skin texture, firmness, clarity, and tone, reduce periocular lines and wrinkles, and contribute to a more youthful and radiant appearance for today’s modern skincare demands.
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New York SCC 60th Anniversary Gala Masquerade Ball October 24, 2015 Come help us celebrate and honor our past chapter chairs at a formal/black-tie optional Gala Masquerade Dinner/Dance event to be held at the Marriott Glenpointe in Teaneck, NJ on Saturday, October 24, 2015. Cost: $100.00/person Cocktail reception begins at 6:00 PM. Dinner and dancing to live music will follow. Supplier tables are available. Please provide a list of the individuals attending and include the company name. Please indicate any special seating requirements in your response. A block of rooms is available at The Marriott Glenpointe Hotel. Please reverse your hotel rooms directly with Marriott. State that you will be attending the NYSCC 60th Anniversary Party. Registration is now available online by visiting www.nyscc.org or by check made payable to NYSCC. Checks should be sent to: Amy Marshall, 3 Rex Court, Ringoes, NJ 08551 Registration has been extended to October 12th. Please register immediately. For more information about the event, contact…. Amy Marshall • (908) 806-4664 Amy.marshall@altana.com
Kim Burch • (609) 443-2385 kim.burch@elementis.com
Jenna Jelenski • (908) 922-4539 jennajelinski@yahoo.com
Andrea Guerrero • (862) 324-1063 aguerrero@gattefossecorp.com
John Carola • (973) 879-7019 johnc@protameen.com
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Symposium held at Fashion Institute of Technology 227 W 27th Street, New York, NY DAY 1 – 8:30 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
PROGRAM
Full-day course by Edwin Faulkner
• Breakfast and registration: 8:30 a.m. – 9:00 a.m. • Colorants and their Use in Decorative Cosmetics: 9:00 a.m.– 5:00 p.m.
DAY 2 – 9:00 a.m. – 5:15 p.m. Color Cosmetics Today
• Breakfast and registration: 9:00 a.m. – 9:30 a.m. • Morning session: 9:30 a.m. – 12:15 p.m. • Lunch and installation of NYSCC officers – 12:15 p.m. – 1:30 p.m. • Afternoon session: 1:30 p.m. – 5:15 p.m. Buses will be available to and from the event on the second day (Thursday, November 12th) from Edison, NJ and Paramus, NJ. There will be no bus service on Wednesday, November 11th. • Cocktail hour: 5:45 p.m. – 6:45 p.m. (Affinia Hotel, 371 7th Ave, New York, NY) Note: Buses to NJ depart after cocktail hour.
DAY 1 and DAY 2
Tabletop exhibits and poster session in parallel with presentations.
A limited number of rooms are available at a group rate at the Affinia Hotel. To reserve a room, either call the Reservation Center at 1-866-AFFINIA (1-866-233-4642) and identify yourself as part of the NYSCC Color Symposium Courtesy Block, or go to the website below and use Group Code NYSCC1.
All reservations must be made by October 9th.
https://gc.synxis.com/rez.aspx?Hotel=10153&Chain=5158&arrive=11/10/2015& depart=11/12/2015&adult=1&child=0&group=NYSCC1
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Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.
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Upcoming 2015 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org October 24 NYSCC 60th Anniversary Party, Glennpointe Marriott, Teaneck NJ November 11-12 NYSCC Color Cosmetics Symposium, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, NY December 10 NYSCC Social Media Holiday Party, New York, NY
Call for Papers
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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
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SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS DEDICATED TO THE ADVANCEMENT OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
SCC Continuing Education Program
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he Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Continuing Education Advisory Committee is delighted to announce that registration is now officially open for the courses listed below. The SCC is dedicated to providing interactive courses that serve the needs of professionals in our industry. CEP instructors are highly qualified industry experts. You will come away from these small, interactive courses having gained the knowledge needed to advance your professional development. To register, or to learn more, please visit www.scconline.org. If you have questions, please call 212-668-1500, or e-mail dscelso@scconline.org.
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REGISTER NOW – CLASS SIZE IS LIMITED! All courses will be at the SCC National Office in New York City unless otherwise noted below. October 6 NEW! Claims for Skin Care Products – From Biomarkers to Human Studies October 27 – 28 Introduction to Polymer Chemistry November 6 Scale-up and Processing Cosmetic Formulations December 9 Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry (in conjunction with SCC Annual Meeting), Hilton Hotel & Towers, New York City December 9 Gums, Thickeners, and Rheology Modifiers (in conjunction with SCC Annual Meeting), Hilton Hotel & Towers, New York City
Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists CALL FOR MANUSCRIPTS
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he Society of Cosmetic Chemists is soliciting scientific manuscripts concerned with cosmetics or the sciences underlying cosmetics, as well as papers of interest to the cosmetic industry for publication in the Journal of Cosmetic Science, The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. The JOURNAL will consider manuscripts for publication in the following categories, provided they are prepared in proper scientific style and adequately referenced: • Original articles • Review articles • Technical notes • General articles • Preliminary communications • Letters to the Editor SUBMISSION OF MANUSCRIPTS Manuscripts submitted for publication should be accompanied by a cover letter and sent via e-mail to dscelso@scconline.org. Additional information is available from the SCC National Office: www.scconline.org.
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