NOVEMBER 2015 • Vol. 21 No. 9
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
www.nyscc.org
FIT’s Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing Programs – Pay It Forward Blending academic study with hands-on experience and industry mentoring, the cosmetics and fragrance marketing program at FIT helps prepare future industry leaders for the business of beauty. … by Nancy Jeffries
A
unique aspect of the beauty industry is its desire to pay it forward. Mentoring, young executive support, professional guidance, and philanthropy continue to be hallmarks contributing to its strength, and while corporate and organizational involvement are important, a pivotal part of the continuum may be found in academia— notably in the courses offered by the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), and particularly in its cosmetics and fragrance marketing programs. FIT, founded in 1944, is part of the State University of New York. It is located in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood, offering unique access and opportunities for its student body. Supported by a stellar group of individuals with first-hand knowledge of the industry, FIT’s programs enable professional partnering and high-quality field experience. A concept fostered by some of the beauty industry’s pioneers and guided by a staff of experts under the aegis of FIT president Dr. Joyce Brown, the original cosmetics and fragrance marketing program has seen several iterations since its inception.
This month’s feature article goes with the theme of the two-day Color Symposium being held on November 11–12 at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Please go to pages 2-12 for agenda, registration information, and speaker abstracts and biographies.
The Beginnings Recognizing the beauty industry’s need for innovative thinking, FIT established the cosmetics, fragrance, and toiletries associate degree program in 1978 with a chair endowed by Revlon, Inc. This position was initially held by the late Hazel Bishop, a chemist and pioneer of modern-day cosmetics, who founded her eponymous company and invented the first long-lasting “kiss proof” lipstick. The cosmetics and fragrance marketing baccalaureate program, founded in 1988, followed, coordinated by Peg Smith, a longtime (Continued on page 13)
GET YOUR COLOR ON November 11th-12th C
2015 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 Kim.Burch@elementis.com
CHAIR-ELECT Rey Ordiales (732) 878-7798 reyordiales@outlook.com.
TREASURER Marie Thadal (609) 712-3716 nyscctreasurerelect@gmail.com
SECRETARY Jenna Jelinski (201) 396-8431 jjelinski@morretec.com
ADVISOR Steve Neidenberg sbn605@aol.com
HOUSE John Carola JohnC@protameen.com
MEMBERSHIP Amy Marshall (908) 806-4664 amy.marshall@altana.com
PROGRAM John Goffredo (201) 647-1841 jagformulators@gmail.com
COMMUNICATIONS Stephen Weinberg (973) 307-4854 webmaster@nyscc.org
SPECIAL EVENTS Phil Klepak (973) 265-2869 pklepak@summitresearchlabs.com
O
S
M
E
T
I
S
C
O
P
E
AT FIT IN NYC! Two Day NYSCC Color Symposium at the Fashion Institute of Technology
DAY 1: Color Course by Ed Faulkner “Colorants and their use in Decorative Cosmetics” DAY 2: Multiple speakers and topics
There will be posters and instrumentation displays running simultaneously for both days. A FIT Museum Tour is included with registration. Buses will be provided from NJ and Long Island, as well as discount rates for The Evelyn Hotel located 2 blocks from FIT.
For more info contact:
Daphne: dbenderly@presperse.com Mila: lyudmila.velikoselskaya@sensient.com
For Info about poster submission contact:
Caroline: cguetta@ariellabs.com
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
COSMETISCOPE ASSISTANT EDITOR Joe Albanese (908) 456-2968 j.albanese@3vusa.com
COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com
Like, Connect & Tweet About Us!
COSMETISCOPE EMPLOYMENT Jason O’Neill (631) 252-2939 Jason.Oneill@kemin.com
2
FACEBOOK: NYSCC LINKED IN: NYSCC MAINACCT TWITTER: NYSCCMAIN INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN These connections were made possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee N O V E M B E R
2 0 1 5
W
W
W
.
N
Y
S
C
C
.
O
R
G
Symposium held at Fashion Institute of Technology 227 W 27th Street, New York, NY PROGRAM
DAY 1 – 8:30 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. (pages 4-5) Full-day course by Edwin Faulkner
• Breakfast and registration: 8:30 a.m. – 9:00 a.m. • Colorants and their Use in Decorative Cosmetics: 9:00 a.m.– 5:00 p.m.
DAY 2 – 9:00 a.m. – 5:15 p.m. (pages 6-16) Color Cosmetics Today
• Breakfast and registration: 9:00 a.m. – 9:30 a.m. • Morning session: 9:30 a.m. – 12:15 p.m. • Lunch and installation of NYSCC officers – 12:15 p.m. – 1:30 p.m. • Afternoon session: 1:30 p.m. – 5:15 p.m. Buses will be available to and from the event on the second day (Thursday, November 12th) from Edison, NJ and Paramus, NJ. There will be no bus service on Wednesday, November 11th. • Cocktail hour: 5:45 p.m. – 6:45 p.m. (Affinia Hotel, 371 7th Ave, New York, NY) Note: Buses to NJ depart after cocktail hour.
DAY 1 and DAY 2
Tabletop exhibits and poster session in parallel with presentations.
A limited number of rooms are available at a group rate at the Evelyn Hotel. To reserve a room, go to their website at www.theevelyn.com. Use the promotion code CORP. The hotel has complimentary WI-FI, early morning pastries and coffee, and a pass to Madison Square Park Ultra Fitness right around the corner.
(Continued on page 4)
Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.
V O L U M E
2 1
•
N o . 9
3
C
O
S
M
E
T
I
S
C
O
P
Get Your Color On Symposium
E
(Continued from page 3)
euxyl® – optimum preservation according to your needs
NYSCC Color Symposium Speaker Abstracts and Biographies
schülke iinc. schülke nc. 1-888-267-4220 1 -888-267-4220
Colorants and their Use in Decorative Cosmetics by Edwin Faulkner
sensiva® – multifunctional additives designed for your innovation
Day 1 – Full-day Course
_______________________________________
Topics to Be Covered:
Biography
Color Basics Color Selection – Stability, Color Type, Economics Regulations Dispersion Pearl Pigments Specialty Pigments Natural Colorants
Ed Faulkner holds a degree in Chemistry from Widener University and has 44 years of experience in the color industry. He retired from Sun Chemical Corporation in September 2014, where his last assignment was as Business Director – Global Cosmetics and Personal Care. During his nearly 41-year career with the company, Ed held numerous technical, manufacturing, administrative, sales, and regulatory positions. Ed is a member of the adjunct faculty at the University of Cincinnati, teaching in the Cosmetic Science Master’s Program. In addition, he is an instructor for both the Center for Professional Advancement in New Brunswick, New Jersey and the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, where he also serves on the Education Committee. Ed was formerly Chairman of the Color Additive Committee of the Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association (CTFA) and was active in the Colored Pigments Manufacturers Association (CPMA), including serving as Chairman of the Annual Conference in 2004 and 2005. He also served as Chairman of the Intertech Color Cosmetics Summit in Paris, Nice, Montreal, and Boca Raton. Ed has had numerous articles published on organic pigments and, in addition, authored the Color Cosmetic Additives chapter in The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics. He served as Co-editor of the 2nd Edition of the High Performance Pigment Handbook published in 2009. He has lectured on the subject of pigments in many parts of the world, including the United States, England, France, Venezuela, Chile, Japan, Holland, and China. Most recently, Ed authored a book that was published in February 2012 titled Coloring the Cosmetic World – Using Pigments in Decorative Cosmetic Formulations. Outside of his professional activities, Ed leads an active life. He and his wife Amy have five rescued greyhounds and are active in the Greyhound Adoption of Greater Cincinnati rescue group. In the community, Ed is active in the Pointe Benton Homeowners Association, where he currently is serving as the President of that organization. He is also the treasurer of the Board of Overseers of the Historic Linden Grove Cemetery in Covington, which dates to 1843. Ed served on the Board of Adjustments for the City of Covington, Kentucky and was its Chairman. Currently, he sits on Covington’s Board of Code Enforcement. Most recently, Ed joined the ranks of volunteers at the Ramage Civil War Museum in Fort Wright, Kentucky and he has been appointed
4
N O V E M B E R
2 0 1 5
W
W
W
.
N
Y
S
C
C
.
O
R
G
to the newly formed Board of Directors of the Boys & Girls Club of Kenton County. Ed’s hobbies include collecting and driving antique cars; he owns two Model T Fords, an early Ford Thunderbird, an Austin Healy Bugeye Sprite, a Citroen 2CV (Deux Chevaux), a vintage E30 BMW convertible, and a World War II military jeep. He is a member of the America Antique Automobile Club, BMW Club of America, the Model T Ford Club of America, and the Horseless Carriage Club of America, where he was president of the Bluegrass Chapter from 2005-2010. Ed collects antique military handguns and keeps them all in working order. Finally, he is a home brewer, operating the Peaselburg Alps Brewery, appropriately named for the Covington neighborhood where he lives.
Day 2 – Color Cosmetics Day
9:00 a.m. – 9:30 a.m.
Breakfast and Registration
9:30 a.m. – 9:40 a.m.
Opening Remarks – Steve Fantano
9:40 a.m. – 10:05 a.m.
Common Colors: The Relationships Between Pigments for Cosmetics and Fine Arts – Michael Skalka
10:05 a.m. – 10:30 a.m.
Forecast to Formula – Sunny Maffeo
10:30 a.m. – 10:55 a.m.
Surface Treatment and Dispersion of Cosmetic Powder – Yun Shao, Ph.D.
10:55 a.m. – 11:25 a.m.
Coffee Break
11:25 a.m. – 11:50 a.m.
Fluorescent and Phosphorescent Transitions – Thomas C. DiPietro
11:50 a.m. – 12:15 p.m.
When Color is Critical – Dwight Davis
12:15 p.m. – 1:30 p.m.
Lunch
1:30 p.m. – 2:30 p.m.
Evolution and Diversity – Michele Burke
2:30 p.m. – 2:55 p.m.
Understanding Color Technology from Laboratory to Consumers – Matthew Adby
2:55 p.m. – 3:20 p.m.
Mascara Development – Paul H. Marotta
3:20 p.m. – 3:50 p.m.
Coffee Break
3:50 p.m. – 4:15 p.m.
Advancements in Color Cosmetics Measurement and Color Science – Sam Cauchi
4:15 p.m. – 4:40 p.m.
The Changing Face of Beauty – Sarah Jindal
4:40 p.m. – 5:05 p.m.
Highlights on Recent Regulatory Developments for Cosmetic Color Additives – David Funk
5:50 p.m. – 5:15 p.m.
Closing Remarks – Kim Burch (Continued on page 6)
V O L U M E
2 1
•
N o . 9
5
C
O
S
M
E
T
I
S
C
Get Your Color On Symposium
O
P
E
Common Colors: The Relationships Between Pigments for Cosmetics and Fine Arts by Michael Skalka
(Continued from page 5)
History has recorded the use of the same pigments for cosmetics as well as paintings, decorative arts, and interior design. This talk traces the origin of pigments such as lead white, ultramarine blue, iron oxides, chromium dioxide, and lake colorants. Traditionally, these pigments came from both the colormen and apothecary trades before pigment manufacturing entered the modern era. Instances will be described that are both mystifying and frightening as they relate to the use of a range of pigments in the cosmetic and art industry by a population eager to enhance themselves and their physical surroundings.
Biography
Michael Skalka holds a Bachelor’s of Art degree in Art History from Rutgers University and a Master’s in Fine Arts in Museum Studies from Syracuse University. He has held the position of Conservation Administrator at the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C. from 1984 to the present. Michael is responsible for the daily operations of the conservation division’s budget, fellowship, and outreach programs, and oversees the development of the Art Material Research and Study Center, a collection of over 20,000 art materials. He is the current chairman of the ASTM International D01.57 subcommittee on Artists’ Materials, responsible for the creation of manufacturing standards for the industry. _______________________________________
Forecast to Formula by Sunny Maffeo
In this presentation we will present a complete 2016 Color and Trend Forecast Case Study discussing color, textures, and lifestyle demographics. We will delve into the early, behind the scenes activities of formulation, illuminating the role color chemists play. Chemists are the essential ingredients to realizing the long-range vision of Brand Managers and satisfying consumer desires. Historically, Color and Trend Forecast intelligence have proven to be the primary resource where Brand Managers draw inspiration for new ideas, which they then deliver to the laboratory as a wish list. More frequently today, suppliers’ custom forecast programs, presented in laboratories, with formulated examples, inspire and excite the chemist to envision, and create new and exciting products. At times, this process goes beyond the wish list or expectations of Brand Managers. Join me on this journey from the inspiring forecast to formula, and further to the end product, through this project created exclusively for Impact Colors by Sunny Maffeo Partners, LLC.
Biography
Sunny Maffeo is a highly recognized global market development expert with a specialization in color and special effects for the beauty, personal care, plastic packaging and automotive industries. Her longrange approach to global design, color trends, and lifestyle influences across numerous markets and product categories, ensuring that her clients will achieve segmented market success. A partial list of clients includes many top tier Fortune 500 companies including P&G, L’Oréal Paris, Victoria Secret Beauty, Estée Lauder Brands, Coty, Avon, Motorola, Samsung, General Motors, Nike as well as worldwide manufacturers of plastics and coatings materials. Sunny has recently contributed to the success of corporate and product rebranding,
6
N O V E M B E R
2 0 1 5
W
W
W
.
N
Y
S
C
C
.
O
R
G BOTANICAL EMOLLIENTS & SPECIALTY PARTICLES
and building product platforms to launch. She has been a Market Development Manager and Creative Director, working in tandem with marketing and R&D throughout a successful career immersed in special effect pigment and film technologies at EMD/Merck, The Mearl Corporation, Engelhard Corp., and BASF. _______________________________________
Surface Treatment and Dispersion of Cosmetic Powder by Yun Shao, Ph.D.
Cosmetic powders are essential ingredients of cosmetics formulations: pigment to provide color; bulking agent to provide texture; and inorganic UV filters to provide UV protection. Most of these powders are hydrophilic by nature and have inherent drawbacks. To maximize the functionality of these powders, it has been a common practice to surface treat these powders to improve their dispersion with the intended formulation base, enhance skin feel, and minimize the undesired side reactions with other ingredients. A variety of organic materials such as metal soaps, silicones, silanes, natural ingredients, and inorganic compounds, such as alumina and silica, can be used for surface treatment. In this presentation, the chemistry of major surface treatments, the treatment process, and their chemical and physical properties will be discussed. The performance of pigment powders, and especially nano-TiO2 and -ZnO, depends heavily on the size and size distribution. Obtained as powder, they easily agglomerate. Their size in the finished formula is related their dispersability, dispersion formulation, and grinding process. The effect of surface treatment, selection of carrier, and dispersant as well as use of grinding equipment will be presented.
24/7 Online Ingredient Information:
www.floratech.com
Label The Natural Solution ÂŽ
i
In the New York SCC Region:
Essential Ingredients Michael Manning 201.576.9382 mmanning@essentialingredients.com
The Soul & Science of Beauty. www.evonik.com/personal-care
Biography
Dr. Yun Shao earned his B.S. in Chemistry from University of Science and Technology of China and his Ph.D. in Polymer Chemistry from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute. He joined Kobo Products, Inc. in 1996 and currently serves as the Vice-president of R&D. Kobo Products, Inc. specializes in pigment surface treatments, wet grinding, and specialty cosmetic ingredients. Dr. Shao has co-authored many patents, book chapters, and technical articles on surface treatment and color development of pigments, and on developing inorganic UV filters. He has presented his work in various scientific conferences and tradeshows including the Florida Society of Cosmetic Chemists Sunscreen Symposium. He is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and the Chinese American Cosmetic Professionals Association. _______________________________________
Fluorescent and Phosphorescent Transitions by Thomas DiPietro
The interplay of light with matter is the primary mechanism in which the human eye perceives color. Absorption and reflection of light is the basis for color appearance of all traditional and interference pigments. In the personal care and cosmetic industry, absorption and interference pigments are well known; however, the third class of pigments, luminescent materials, is somewhat less understood. A fundamental understanding of luminescent transitions and the difference between fluorescent and phosphorescent transitions is explained. Further, the interaction of differing illuminant sources on fluorescent materials and the coloristic properties of these materials are explored. Lastly, we will explore the use of fluorescent materials in the personal care and cosmetic markets. (Continued on page 8)
V O L U M E
2 1
•
N o . 9
7
C
O
S
M
E
T
I
S
C
O
Get Your Color On Symposium
P
E
(Continued from page 7)
Biography
Thomas C. DiPietro is Vice-president of Research and Development at DayGlo Color Corporation, the leading producer of fluorescent pigments and dyes, located in Cleveland, Ohio. He received his Bachelor’s of Science degree in Chemistry from Bowling Green State University in 1984 and later studied Polymer Science at The University of Akron. Mr. DiPietro’s career in color chemistry began by synthesizing and purifying specialty dyes used in color liquid crystal displays when employed by Crystaloid Electronics Co., a Hudson, Ohio manufacturer of LCDs. In 1987, he joined DayGlo as a Polymer Chemist and was subsequently promoted to the positions of Senior Chemist and Group Leader. Mr. DiPietro took a brief hiatus from the fluorescent world when in 1992 he joined Empire-Berol USA, a maker of art and craft materials located in Shelbyville, Tennessee. Tom rejoined DayGlo in 1995 as the New Product Development Manager and was promoted to Vice-president in 2008. The author and co-author of numerous patents on fluorescent technology, Mr. DiPietro’s R&D group is continually developing new products for the paint, plastic, printing, and cosmetic industries. Tom is a member of the American Chemical Society and the Lake Erie chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. _______________________________________
When Color is Critical by Dwight H. Davis
Color is one of the most important attributes when it comes to the cosmetic industry, and understanding the core principles in how to manage color from product development to final production is a challenge for any company. From R&D, raw materials, and color formulation to production, quality control, and final analysis, controlling color can seem like a monumental task. Konica Minolta breaks down this “monumental task” into easily achievable steps. You will learn the important tools that are available at each stage of a product’s lifecycle to control the color of cosmetics. We will examine this cycle at each stage, and present solutions for controlling color to assure the final color is what was intended from the beginning. Konica Minolta will share with attendees these tools for evaluating color, along with software specifically designed for skin analysis and clinical trial applications. Attendees will be presented with techniques and tools to confirm that the correct color is observed from store lighting, outdoor daylight, or lighting in the home—a complete set of solutions for the color of cosmetics through the product life cycle.
Biography
Dwight Davis has been working in the color industry for more than twenty years, first in the printing and graphic arts markets, and for the last ten years in industrial color management. Dwight’s background spans positions in sales and marketing, and he is now Global Major Accounts Manager for Konica Minolta Sensing in the Americas. Dwight manages all aspects of the global accounts for Konica Minolta’s largest customers, which includes product development, sales, coordination of Service and Support items, and day-to-day operations. Dwight has a Bachelor’s degree in Business Management from Elizabethtown College in Pennsylvania, and a Master’s degree in Corporate Communications from Fairleigh Dickinson University in New Jersey. _______________________________________
8
N O V E M B E R
2 0 1 5
W
W
W
.
N
Y
S
C
C
.
O
R
G
Evolution and Diversity by Michele Burke
Chemists, formulators, and makeup artists… We are some but not all of the important elements that work together and sometimes apart to yield successful and enduring products. My presentation seeks to give you all a little insight into my DNA as a makeup artist in order to close the degrees of separation. As a makeup artist, I make the decision on the color, product, brand, and makeup design. Knowledge and choice of product is part of the key to success as a makeup artist—my work is seen by millions all over the planet. I hunt down products and obscure colors that may not currently be in wide use. As needed, I will create products and special mixtures. My character designs explore the past, present and future as well as the world of fantasy. My makeup designs appear on the most high profile actresses in the world and may spark a trend. Makeup artists learn how to work quickly and effectively. We rely on the products that we choose to perform. Because we work on the full spectrum of the population, we know what works and what does not. In addition, manufacturers may create more user-friendly products for the public based on some of the complicated techniques that we use on a film set.
Making Personal Personal Car Caree Beautiful®
Specialty Silicones & Actives Skin Car Caree Caree Hair Car Color Cosmetics ®
www.biosiltech.com
Biography
A two-time Oscar winner and overall six-time Oscar nominee, Michele Burke is one of the most accomplished and sought after makeup artists in the film industry. Michele’s impressive movie resume includes some of the top films—and stars—of the last few years. In addition to her work in film, television, print, and fashion, Michele was a Max Factor Movie Makeup Artist for five years during which time she contributed to the design of many of their products and formulations. Michele also designs custom makeup applicators for GEKA worldwide that are used by many of the top selling brands. A native of Dublin, Ireland, Michele immigrated to Canada and started her makeup career after working as a model and producing fashion shows. Michele currently resides in Burbank, California. _______________________________________
Understanding Color Technology from Laboratory to Consumers by Matthew Adby
This presentation will examine our understanding of how cosmetic color can be measured and communicated through development and production to consumers. We will provide basic insight into the history of color science and explain what are "Spectrophotometers and L*a*b* numbers" and how and when to use them. Subjects will also include: • New developments in measurement technology and techniques. • Applying color quality tolerances: “What is good and bad.” • How are new developments enabling consumers to measure color with their smart phones and how this is enhancing our opportunities?
Biography
Matt Adby joined X-Rite in 1998 with progression through Applications Support, Sales Account Management, and Product Management, and is now responsible for Market Management for the X-Rite Retail business. X-Rite manufactures, markets, and supports innovative technology-based solutions for global markets where color and appearance matter, from inspiration through production, for the purpose of creating economic value while considering our environmental and (Continued on page 10)
V O L U M E
2 1
•
N o . 9
9
C
O
S
M
E
T
I
S
C
O
P
Get Your Color On Symposium
E
(Continued from page 9)
social responsibilities. He leads a team of Product Managers, globally distributed in Europe, U.S., and China, and is responsible to define market roadmaps and high-level requirements for new products and solutions. In the cosmetic market, the product CAPSURE was successfully launched for use in stores for a number of leading brands including Sephora, Boots No. 7, Estée Lauder, and Elizabeth Arden. A new product for consumer use to measure color with their smart phone, CAPSUREme, has just been launched with the retailer Douglas in Germany. _______________________________________
Mascara Development by Paul H. Marotta
n History •A market place analysis of the prestige market; how products enter the top seller’s list and how they stay there. This will include package and formula analysis. n How to develop •A review of typical formulas based on o/w and w/o emulsion technologies. •Why certain textures work. •What causes “dry out.” •Influence of preservation systems on mascara texture. •How to scale from 1 kg to 1000 kg. n Influence of the package •A complete review of all the non-decorative parts of the mascara package. •Brush and brush fiber choice. •Wiper material and size options. •Rod lengths and wire choices. •Molded verses twisted wire. n Stability •How to conduct stability, what to look for, and what kind of changes are acceptable. n Rheology •How to read rheology curves, for both R&D and QC.
Biography
Paul Marotta has been with Estée Lauder since 1998 and is currently the Director of Global Formula Value Creation (GFVC). From 2008-2014, Paul served as Lab Manager for the newly created Estée Lauder Corporate Mascara Development Lab where he directed both “Blue Sky” initiatives as well as time sensitive projects for all 32 brands within the Estée Lauder Companies. During those six years, Paul and his team launched over 200 new mascara products and authored nine patents (four additional patent pending). This resulted in a 28% increase in revenue for the mascara business for Estée Lauder Companies. Before his work at Estée Lauder, Paul worked for Arthur Matney/Pavion Cosmetics where he developed color cosmetics for the Artmatic and Wet-n-Wild brands. Paul currently serves on the Executive Board of the Long Island Society of Cosmetic Chemists. He has served the society in various leadership roles since 2006 including Family Picnic Director, Treasurer, and Chair. Paul holds a Bachelor’s of Science degree in Chemistry from the State University of New York at Oneonta and an MBA from Dowling University in Long Island, New York. He lives on Long Island with his two daughters. In his free time, Paul is an avid long distance runner and has completed 16 marathons.
10
N O V E M B E R
2 0 1 5
W
W
W
.
N
Y
S
C
C
.
O
R
G
Advancements in Color Cosmetics Measurement and Color Science by Sam Cauchi
Color is inextricably intertwined with the customer’s visual perception of cosmetic products and has been since this industry’s inception. Marketing and development of new shades, color, and texture effects in both product and packaging categories separate the innovators from the mainstream. Up until recently, the evaluation of new colors and effect textures (i.e. metallics and pearls) has been predominantly done visually, and color measurement has only been useful in limited niches like quality control. However, as new instrument and software technologies emerge, a more complete digital definition of the customer’s visual impression has become possible. This latest generation of color tools is breathing life into new applications for cosmetic color science and cosmetic product development. Digital visualization of color and texture effects is now becoming possible in a way not previously available, as are metallic and pearl formulation capabilities that offer potential to rapidly speed up formulation time and offer rapid color and effect database lookup.
SILAB creates and manufactures unique, consistently safe, natural active ingredients with proven efficacy.
You need more information about our products? Please contact our subsidiary SILAB Inc.: email: silabinc@silabinc.com phone: 732-335-1030
engineering natural active ingredients
Biography
Sam Cauchi is the Business Line Manager for BYK-Gardner USA’s Coatings, Ink, and Cosmetics group. Sam has a Master’s degree in Electrical Engineering from the University of Toronto specializing in optical device engineering and a Bachelor’s degree in Physics. He has been with BYK-Gardner for five years and has previous R&D experience in nanotechnology, fiber optics, and material science. He has authored and co-authored over 35 publications and peer-reviewed papers in journals like European Physical Journal, Optics Letters, Langmuir, Materials Research, Applied Physics Society, Journal of Applied Physics, and Materials Performance. _______________________________________
The Changing Face of Beauty by Sarah Jindal
As predicted by Mintel, in 2014 we have seen hybrid beauty launches hitting new heights. For 2015 and beyond, we forecast that consumers will adopt a more flexible beauty routine, mixing and matching ultra-segmented and multifunctional products to suit their daily needs. Seasonality, changing working patterns, and demographic factors will all play a role when targeting your beauty consumer as will the continually blurring lines between the skincare and color cosmetic segments. Join Mintel’s Personal Care Analyst Sarah Jindal as she explores the ever-evolving landscape of the global color cosmetics market with a look into the latest consumer insights and the hottest innovations with a focus on multifunctionality, cross category products, and new sensory attributes with a focus on the key trends impacting color cosmetics today and into the future.
Biography
As Mintel’s Senior Innovation and Insights Analyst, Sarah regularly interfaces with key beauty clients and lends her expertise based on over 16 years of experience developing ingredient technologies for beauty and personal care. Sarah’s roles in both marketing and product development covered all beauty and personal care categories with a focus on skincare and active ingredients. Having worked for a variety of companies over her career, Sarah has gained an in-depth understanding of the industry and draws upon not only her work experience, but also degrees in Biology, Biochemistry, and Evolutionary Biology. (Continued on page 12)
V O L U M E
2 1
•
N o . 9
11
C
O
S
M
E
T
I
S
C
O
P
Get Your Color On Symposium
E
(Continued from page 11)
Highlights on Recent Regulatory Developments for Cosmetic Color Additives by David Funk
COMMITTED TO TECHN FORMULA AND SUPERIOR NA AT TION-W DISTRIBUTION.
Authorized Deal Dealer
800.296.4942 LINCOLNFINEINGREDIENTS.COM 50 INDUSTRIAL CR., LINCOLN, R.I., 02865
Regulations impacting cosmetic color additives continue to evolve in the U.S. and around the world, impacting the development of new pigments and their use by formulators. This presentation will provide a broad overview of the recent regulatory developments for cosmetic colors. The discussion will highlight the differences in regulation in the various regions, recent regulatory developments impacting certain colorants, and the continued regulatory challenges in developing novel cosmetic color additives.
Biography
David Funk has worked for 11 years at BASF Corporation in various roles within the regulatory/product stewardship group, and in Research and Development. Currently, he works in the global development and expert services team for the BASF cosmetic effect pigments business. David has a B.S. degree in Chemistry from the University of Texas, and is enrolled at the University of Connecticut where he is pursuing an MBA.
™ Nature’s Science. Our Technology. Your Beauty.
www.ajiaminobeauty.com ww w ww w.aj ajji aji
12
Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
N O V E M B E R
2 0 1 5
W
W
W
.
N
Y
S
C
C
FIT’s Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing Programs
.
O
R
G
(Continued from page 1)
faculty member at FIT. Smith helped raise funds in support of the program and guided its curriculum. FIT further expanded its capabilities in 1993 by opening the Annette Green Fragrance Foundation Studio, a fragrance development laboratory named in recognition of Green’s work on behalf of the program. The former president of The Fragrance Foundation, Green was a driving force in the genesis of the program. During the February 2014 celebration of the 25th anniversary of the baccalaureate program, at which both Smith and Green were present, Smith noted that Green named the program’s advisory board the “action council,” which is how she saw its role, and added that Green’s fund-raising efforts ultimately enabled the creation of a student study abroad opportunity. This travel/study component took students to London, Paris, and Milan where they visited lavender fields, met perfumers, and visited bottle manufacturers. Green recalled that the program enabled students to enter an industry that had no formal structure in place for entrance, and noted it filled an important need for students inspired by the workings of this industry, giving them direction and guidance, and ultimately setting the stage for mentoring, which has become part of the philosophical bedrock of the beauty industry.
A Unique Curriculum Collaborative and participatory, the cosmetics and fragrance marketing curriculum offers an opportunity to gain field experience, an area where industry partnerships and academia coalesce. Among its offerings, the Cosmetic Product Knowledge Lab facilitates students learning how cosmetics look, feel, and smell. They also learn to compound products in the studio, how to evaluate marketed cosmetics, and about fragrance raw materials, as well as how to evaluate both fine fragrances and those used in functional products. The Business of Beauty program provides a historical overview of the techniques used to market beauty products, as well as an overview of the culture of the industry and the key entrepreneurs and the companies they built. Courses address the historical usage of cosmetics, fragrances, and toiletries; the transition from household recipes to marketable retail products; and supplier, vendor, retailer, service, and regulatory issues involved in the production, manufacturing, and marketing of beauty products. Marketing principles addressing global and external factors, corporate capabilities, product need, planning, and product launches are also studied. And the course on European Cosmetics and Fragrance Industries enables students to develop a firsthand understanding of the cosmetics and fragrance marketing process from the European perspective. Virginia Bonofiglio, associate chairperson of cosmetics and fragrance marketing, notes that the value of the program lies in its ability to bring students into the real world of cosmetics and fragrance. “The class that currently takes place abroad is a two-week study experience in which students travel to Paris and Milan. Paris is the beauty capital, and I think it’s important for students to see it firsthand. Milan is the color capital, the purveyors of color pigments for the world. Students visit major fragrance companies and manufacturers, and they get a good look at the European beauty retail market, as well
Processing Services for dry powders Fine & Ultra Fine Milling Technologies for Bases, Face Powders, and Pigments. FDA Registered. The Jet Pulverizer Co. ®
800.670-9695 www.jetpulverizer.com info@jetpul.com
innovation comes...
naturally
www.kinetiktech.com www .kinetiktech.com info@kinetiktech.com 732-335-5775
(Continued on page 14)
V O L U M E
2 1
•
N o . 9
13
C
Make M ake Solvay Solvay your P artner for for Innovative Innovative Partner F ormulation Solutions Formulation New! Jaguar® Optima – a unique, naturally derived solution th t ff ll t
O
S
M
E
T
I
S
C
FIT’s Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing Programs
O
P
E
(Continued from page 13)
as have an opportunity to understand the European consumer and how to create products for that consumer,” she says. “We have made the class academically challenging and the program affordable for students. As part of the State University, which creates affordable education for all New Yorkers, we are educating the newest crop of people to enter the beauty business, making sure they have the skill set and knowledge to be effective leaders,” said Bonofiglio. There are also workshops aimed to develop and implement strategies to create products and determine the need for new entries in the market, while others examine olfaction, the role of the sense of smell, and the classification of fragrance families. Students examine the history and spiritual origins of fragrance, technical terminology, home fragrance delivery systems, and fragrance types used for environmental fragrances. Global brand management, forecasting, inventory management, partnering, and profitability are also studied. According to Steven Frumkin, dean of FIT’s Jay and Patty Baker School of Business Technology (of which the baccalaureate program in cosmetics and fragrances marketing is a part), “Our unique program offers extensive laboratory facilities. We vet the students and the program, and we our doubling our student body next year when the program will include 50, rather than 25, students. In addition, every faculty member is an industry professional with at least seven to ten years of industry experience.” Frumkin also notes that industry professionals in the program have the drive, desire and wherewithal to explain the concepts and requirements that students will need to navigate and succeed in the industry.
Graduate Preparedness In how well the program prepares its students for the real world of the beauty industry, Frumkin says, “We have an industry advisory board that monitors our programs, advises on courses and content, and hires our students.” He also notes the significant hiring rate for the program, with many students gaining employment prior to graduation and the “certainty that 90% of students gain employment within six months of graduation.” He shares that students become beauty industry brand managers, marketing managers, product developers, fragrance evaluators, and development managers, as well as retail department store managers, and many establish their career paths prior to graduating. Graduates work for, among other companies: The Estée Lauder Company; Parfums Givenchy; Barneys; L’Oréal; Lancôme; Victoria’s Secret Beauty; Fresh, Inc.; Avon; Unilever; MAC; Clarins USA; and Coty.
Future Plans for the Baccalaureate The program continues to evolve and develop. “We have exciting things planned for the future,” says Frumkin. “We’ve been integrating cosmetics and fragrances in innovative ways, developing fragrances for apparel through textiles so fragrances can live for the lifetime of a fabric, and we’ve also been working on new colors and fragrances. We have 80,000 different colors in the lab, so students can create and enhance new chemical formulations for apparel and home products, concentrating on the infusion of fragrances into a wide range of products.”
14
N O V E M B E R
2 0 1 5
W
W
W
.
N
Y
S
C
C
.
O
R
G
And Frumkin says that FIT is seeking to grow the program and the number of students its serves.
The Graduate Program The original cosmetics and fragrance marketing programs also paved the way for a Master’s degree program in cosmetics and fragrance marketing and management, established in 2000. This program provides an advanced education for emerging executives in cosmetics, fragrances, and beautyrelated areas who have been recommended by their employers because of their strong management potential. It provides a curriculum based on experimental and investigative study. Professor Stephan Kanlian, chairperson of FIT’s Master’s degree program in cosmetics and fragrance marketing and management, says, “I think it’s quite unusual both for a graduate business program and an entire industry sector to work together to train top talent through a degree program. There really is not another graduate business program that integrated with an entire business sector, that we know of, anywhere else in the world.” Kanlian also notes, “The combination of analytical and creative skills is unique for a graduate business program, and when you layer that with a graduate program that is integrated with an entire industry sector, it is a very interesting model for graduate education. It’s quite rare to have executive students from an entire industry sector approaching high-level research topics that combine both the grounding of their alreadyextensive industry experience with what they’ve learned in an academic setting.” Emphasizing global business is key. “The European study course focuses on grounding the students in the heritage of the industry, both in beauty and fashion and in understanding key retail innovation markets globally,” says Kanlian. The field studies in Asia focus on innovative approaches to reach emerging consumers in Asia and on understanding different local or regional approaches to marketing and corporate leadership.” Each study course is two weeks in length. Kanlian also cites the research conducted by the students—particularly in the Capstone presentations, which mark the culmination of their graduate studies—saying, “Because the graduate program is a think tank for the beauty industry, the students’ final output is a high-level research study that contributes to moving industry thinking forward. Last year’s graduating class presented to 700 industry executives and media, as well as at major conferences in our industry and in other industries.” The Capstone presentations (some of which can be found on www.GCImagazine.com) illuminate a particular area of concentration for the graduating class. “In 2013, we did a major study on the impact of digital on the business sector, and partnered with Google. The research was also presented at HBA, Cosmoprof North America, the Luxury Digital Interactive Conference in New York, at the SUNY Conference on Big Data, and to the senior beauty merchants at Macy’s corporate. It has also been published as a case study in a new consumer psychology book by Dr. Kit Yarrow,” said Kanlian. “I think the growth and development of both the baccalaureate and the graduate programs and the rebuilding of the new fragrance laboratory just underscores the relationship FIT has to the beauty industry,” Kanlian says. “And I think it’s an incredible model for the future of education to have industry partnering with academia.” This article originally appeared in the 2014 July/August issue of GCI Magazine (pp. 24-28). Article reprinted with permission from Allured Business Media, copyright 2014. _______________________________________
About the Author:
N
ancy Jeffries is a contributing editor for GCI Magazine, covering the industry from her New York vantage. Jeffries has been in the publishing business for more than 20 years. Her introduction to the cosmetics and personal care industry began as editor of GCI Magazine from 1997-2000. She can be contacted at: bnjcasa@aol.com.
V O L U M E
2 1
•
N o . 9
15
C
O
S
M
E
T
I
S
C
O
P
E
SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS DEDICATED TO THE ADVANCEMENT OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
SCC Continuing Education Program
T
he Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Continuing Education Advisory Committee is delighted to announce that registration is now officially open for the courses listed below. The SCC is dedicated to providing interactive courses that serve the needs of professionals in our industry. CEP instructors are highly qualified industry experts. You will come away from these small, interactive courses having gained the knowledge needed to advance your professional development. To register, or to learn more, please visit www.scconline.org. If you have questions, please call (212) 668-1500, or e-mail dscelso@scconline.org.
REGISTER NOW – CLASS SIZE IS LIMITED! All courses will be at the SCC National Office in New York City unless otherwise noted below. October 27 – 28 Introduction to Polymer Chemistry November 6 Scale-up and Processing Cosmetic Formulations December 9 Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry (in conjunction with SCC Annual Meeting), Hilton Hotel & Towers, New York City December 9 Gums, Thickeners, and Rheology Modifiers (in conjunction with SCC Annual Meeting), Hilton Hotel & Towers, New York City
Upcoming 2015 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org November 11-12 NYSCC Color Cosmetics Symposium, Fashion Institute of Technology, NY, NY December 10 NYSCC Social Media Holiday Party, New York, NY
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists CALL FOR MANUSCRIPTS
T
he Society of Cosmetic Chemists is soliciting scientific manuscripts concerned with cosmetics or the sciences underlying cosmetics, as well as papers of interest to the cosmetic industry for publication in the Journal of Cosmetic Science, The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. The JOURNAL will consider manuscripts for publication in the following categories, provided they are prepared in proper scientific style and adequately referenced: • Original articles • Review articles • Technical notes • General articles • Preliminary communications • Letters to the Editor SUBMISSION OF MANUSCRIPTS Manuscripts submitted for publication should be accompanied by a cover letter and sent via e-mail to dscelso@scconline.org. Additional information is available from the SCC National Office: www.scconline.org.
16
N O V E M B E R
2 0 1 5
W
W
W
.
N
Y
S
C
C
.
O
R
G
2016 Naturally Kiawah Symposium April 21, 2016 Kiawah Island Golf Resort • Kiawah Island, South Carolina Carolina Society of Cosmetic Chemists Call for Papers | Deadline: November 1, 2015
A
uthors are invited to submit titles and abstracts of no more than 150 words for original papers to be presented in podium format. All topics related to Natural and Green Science will be considered for presentation. Topics of particular interest for submission of the abstracts are: • How Advances in Science Are Effecting the Development of New Natural/Green Raw Materials and Products • Eco Friendly Manufacturing (Carbon Footprints, Alternate Forms of Energy, Waste Management Techniques) • Effect of Natural/Green Products on Skin Biology • Fair Trade Opportunities in Personal Care • Preservation and Stabilization of Natural Products • Marketing and Consumer Trends • Regulatory Updates • Sustainable Sourcing and Manufacturing • Novel Delivery Systems for Natural Products • Green/Natural Packaging
Abstracts should be submitted on a separate sheet along with this flyer or abstract cover sheet. Please send via e-mail to catherinewalker@xytrus.com or mail to: Catherine Walker, Xytrus, 9200 Stockport Place, Charlotte, NC 28273. All Abstracts will be reviewed and selected by the Carolina Society of Cosmetic Chemists Education Committee no later than December 15th.
Call for Papers
T
he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
V O L U M E
2 1
•
N o . 9
17
C
O
S
M
E
T
I
S
C
O
P
E
Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: https://www.nyscc.org/employment-listings.html. n VP of Research & Development, Quality Assurance, and Scientific Affairs ET Browne Drug Co., Inc. East Stroudsburg, PA n Account Executive – Customer Service Englewood Lab, LLC Englewood, NJ n Purchasing Agent – Chemicals Englewood Lab, LLC Englewood, NJ
n R&D Technologist, Victoria’s Secret Beauty L Brands (formerly Limited Brands) New York, NY
n Senior Account Manager Lucas Meyer Cosmetics Southern California
n Technical Marketing Manager Lucas Meyer Cosmetics New York City (Manhattan) n Senior Chemist II Estée Lauder Melville, NY
n Principal Scientist Arbonne International Chatsworth, CA
n R&D Chemist ET Browne Drug Co., Inc. East Stroudsburg, PA
2015 Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase …Advancing Cosmetic Science for 70 Years!
December 10-11, 2015
New York Hilton, Midtown 1335 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY
18
N O V E M B E R
2 0 1 5