DECEMBER 2015 • Vol. 21 No. 10
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
www.nyscc.org
Back to Basics – Cosmetic Raw Materials … by Perry Romanowski
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here are many ways to look at raw materials, but I prefer to categorize them by their purpose in the formula. Using this approach there are only three primary categories of cosmetic raw materials. These include functional ingredients, aesthetic modifiers, and claims ingredients. That's it, just three types of ingredients! Of the more than 15,000 raw materials available for cosmetics, they each fall into one of these three categories. Now, there is some overlap and these categories can be divided up further, but as a chemistry student or formulator, it’s helpful to know these main categories. The idea to look at cosmetic ingredients like this was inspired by the work biologists do in cladistics—the practice of grouping organisms based on similar characteristics. I was a biology major and always found it helpful to think about different animals and plants in terms of how they were related to each other. I thought the same would be helpful in learning cosmetic raw materials. In this article we'll focus on functional raw materials, but before doing that let's cover the basic definition of each of the three main categories.
Functional Ingredients These are ingredients put into formulations to have an effect on the appearance or the feel of the consumer's skin or hair. You cannot make a useful cosmetic product without including at least one functional ingredient. But you could make an entire cosmetic product using just one functional ingredient, so in that way functional ingredients are unique. A good example of a single ingredient cosmetic is a product like Vaseline petroleum jelly. It is a huge brand and the primary product is a tub of a single functional ingredient cosmetic (Petrolatum). (Continued on page 2)
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2015 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 Kim.Burch@elementis.com
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Functional ingredients include cleansers, conditioning agents, colorants, fragrances, reactive ingredients, film formers, and drug actives. Every cosmetic you’ve ever used or made has at least one functional ingredient. Incidentally, functional ingredients are the ones that cosmetic chemists most want new raw material suppliers to make. Unfortunately, the number of significantly different functional ingredients has not increased in many years. This probably is a result of the fact that it's hard to create a really new functional ingredient.
Aesthetic Modifiers The most common and abundant types of cosmetic raw materials in a formulation are aesthetic modifiers. These are ingredients that help to make delivery of the functional ingredients more acceptable. They are the compounds that help the ingredients spread, dilute the ingredients, make them more stable, and improve the look and feel of the overall product. Things like solvents, thickeners, preservatives, pH adjusters, and more are all aesthetic modifiers. When you look at the ingredient list of cosmetics, most of the ingredients are aesthetic modifiers. Since these ingredients don’t have any functional benefit to the consumer, formulators try to minimize the amount of aesthetic modifiers used. This helps keep costs down and simplifies production. However, these ingredients do play a crucial role in the creation and experience of using a personal care product, so it’s important for a formulator to have a thorough knowledge of what they do and how to use them. While people use cosmetics to improve the way their skin and hair looks and feels, this isn’t the primary reason that they buy cosmetics. Consumers buy cosmetics for a wide variety of reasons, but most importantly they buy a product because they like the story that the product tells. They like the packaging, or the way that the product looks and smells. And to help support the marketing story and the claims made about the product, formulators have to include claims ingredients.
Claims Ingredients These ingredients (sometimes called fairy dust) are added to a formula at a low level for the primary purpose of listing the ingredient name on the label. This includes ingredients like natural extracts, vitamins, proteins, biotechnology, and fanciful made-up ingredient names. They are not put in the formulas to have any measurable effect and almost invariably they don’t. However, most consumers need a story to believe when they buy their cosmetics, so these ingredients help support that story. Brands that don’t include claims ingredients are generally less successful in the marketplace.
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
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COSMETISCOPE EMPLOYMENT Stephen Weinberg (973) 307-4854 webmaster@nyscc.org
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Functional Ingredients in Depth All right, that gives you an overview of all the different types of cosmetic raw materials. Let's look at functional ingredients in more detail. As already mentioned, functional ingredients are those whose main purpose in the formula is to deliver a benefit to a consumer. They might have some secondary effect like improving the feel of the product when it’s applied, or stabilizing the formula, but the primary reason functional ingredients are added is for the effect they have on skin, nails, or hair. There are basically seven types of functional ingredients. We'll go through each of these now. D E C E M B E R
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Cleansers Our first type of functional ingredient falls in the category of cleansers. Cleansers are ingredients that help remove dirt and oil from the skin, hair, or nail surfaces. By removing things from these surfaces you can make them look better. Typically, surfaces coated in dirt look less appealing than those that are perfectly clean. That's the function of cleansers. The most common types of cleaners are surfactants, but also things like exfoliants and solvents can clean surfaces.
Conditioners/Moisturizers The next functional raw material types are conditioners. These ingredients actually change the way the skin or hair feels. Unlike cleansers, which are removed from the surfaces, conditioners typically need to be left on the surface to have a significant effect. The most common types of conditioning ingredients are cationic surfactants, polymers, occlusive agents, humectants, and emollients. Generally, conditioners are composed of hydrophobic molecules that make the surface slippery, softer, and shinier.
Colorants Colorants are the third functional ingredient category we will consider. These ingredients are used to impart color to the skin or hair surface. There are a wide range of molecules that can do this, including synthetic ingredients, and ones derived from natural sources such as minerals, plants, and animals. Colorants are the most highly regulated of all cosmetic ingredients and if you are formulating in the U.S., the FDA must approve any colorant you use for such purposes. The EU and other regulatory agencies around the world have similar restrictions on the ingredients that can be used as colorants. These extra restrictions are a result of legislation enacted to protect consumers from dangerous colorants that used to be formerly used in cosmetics. Colorants that contain lead and mercury at toxic levels used to be frequently used by preregulation formulators. A number of consumers got sick, went blind, or even died from toxic colorants, which prompted the creation of the FDA. Nowadays, cosmetics are much more safe than they used to be.
Fragrances Our fourth type of functional ingredient is fragrances. These ingredients are added to formulas for two reasons. From a functional standpoint, fragrances are used to change the odor of any surface to which they are applied. It turns out that people like things to have a smell more pleasing than human body odor. Fragrances are the main functional component in products like colognes, perfumes, and body sprays. It should be noted that both Colors and Fragrances are frequently used as aesthetic ingredients. Fragrances are often added to formulations in order to cover the odor of the other chemicals in the product. And colorants are usually added to improve the appearance of the formulations. Without a colorant many liquid formulas would be a dull, yellow color, which is much less appealing to consumers.
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Film formers are the fifth category of functional ingredients. When used in hair products, these raw materials can change and hold the shape of hair. They are the main functional ingredient found in hair styling products like hair holding sprays, gels, or putties. When used in skin products that make a uniform film on skin, which can hold colors or sunscreens evenly on the surface. Film formers are typically polymeric materials and can be effective at low use levels.
Reactive Ingredients Our sixth category of functional ingredients is reactive ingredients. While most cosmetics do not (Continued on page 4)
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involve chemical reactions, there are some that do. Some chemicals are put on hair to chemically break down the protein bonds holding hair strands together and then reformed to change the shape of hair. These are the main functional ingredients in chemical treatments like relaxers or perms. Other reactive ingredients are used to break down the hair's natural pigment (melanin) and replace it with a polymeric colorant. There are also reactive ingredients like dihydroxyacetone, which can temporarily change the color of skin. There are also reactive raw materials that can be used to remove hair such as the functional ingredients in depilatories.
Drug Actives The final category of functional raw materials is drug actives. Of course, this class of functional ingredients is technically not cosmetic products. If your product contains a drug active then, at least in the U.S., it is a drug and not a cosmetic. However, numerous products marketed as cosmetics use drug actives, so it makes sense to include them in this classification system. Drug actives include ingredients that are sunscreens, antiperspirants, antidandruff, anti-bacterials, anti-cavities, skin lightening, anti-acne, and hair growth.
Concluding Remarks While there are thousands of cosmetic ingredients, there are only three distinct types. Of those, the functional ingredients class is the most important in your formula. These are the ingredients that make cosmetics work, and they are the ones of which we need more. Unfortunately, it's extremely difficult to make a new functional cosmetic ingredient.
About the Author…
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Perry Romanowski has spent the past 20 years researching and developing products to solve consumer problems in the personal care and cosmetic industry. His primary focus has been on hair and hair-related products. He is currently Vice-president of Brains Publishing, which specializes in science education. In 2014, Romanowski founded the Practical Cosmetic Formulating online training program to provide cosmetic chemists continuing education across a broad range of formula categories. Previously, Romanowski worked for Alberto Culver serving as a senior project leader for hair care innovation. He is currently the Area II National Director for the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC). In addition, Perry has made appearances on popular TV shows including the Dr. Oz show and the Rachel Ray show. Romanowski received his B.S. in Chemistry from DePaul University and M.S. in Biochemistry. He has written and edited numerous articles and books, taught the SCC’s Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry continuing education class, and developed various websites. In addition, he provides consulting services for cosmetic formulating, testing, and Internet solutions; he can be reached through his website, www.ChemistsCorner.com.
Call for Papers
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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
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2016 Naturally Kiawah Symposium April 21, 2016 Kiawah Island Golf Resort • Kiawah Island, South Carolina Carolina Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Product Development Symposium January 26, 2016 The Grand Summit Hotel, Summit, NJ –– Full-day Event –– Tentative Speakers and Topics
Steven Haines • CEO, Sequent Learning Networks The Business of Products – Linking Customers, Strategy, Ideas, and People Sandra Diaz • President, DIAZ & Co. – A Multi-Cultural Marketing and Merchandising Consulting Firm Multicultural Considerations for New Product Development Peter J. Duggan • Sr. Vice-president, Computershare Idea Generation - The Foundation of Product Development Dipanjan (DJ) Nag • President, IP Prediqtus LLC Intellectual Property Strategy and Open Innovation: A Quantum Leap Stephen Birtsas • Sr. Manager, Kalypso “Launch ‘em and Love ‘em” How to Ensure Ongoing Success When Your New Product Innovations Hit the Market Dr. Sharon Kennedy • Sr. Technical Associate, Colgate Palmolive Customer Focused Product Development: Designing for the Right Target
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SCC Continuing Education Program
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he Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Continuing Education Advisory Committee is delighted to announce that registration is now officially open for the courses listed below. The SCC is dedicated to providing interactive courses that serve the needs of professionals in our industry. CEP instructors are highly qualified industry experts. You will come away from these small, interactive courses having gained the knowledge needed to advance your professional development. To register, or to learn more, please visit www.scconline.org. If you have questions, please call 212-668-1500, or e-mail dscelso@scconline.org.
REGISTER NOW – CLASS SIZE IS LIMITED! All courses will be at the SCC National Office in New York City unless otherwise noted below. December 9 Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry (in conjunction with SCC Annual Meeting), Hilton Hotel & Towers, New York City December 9 Gums, Thickeners, and Rheology Modifiers (in conjunction with SCC Annual Meeting), Hilton Hotel & Towers, New York City
Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
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JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists CALL FOR MANUSCRIPTS
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he Society of Cosmetic Chemists is soliciting scientific manuscripts concerned with cosmetics or the sciences underlying cosmetics, as well as papers of interest to the cosmetic industry for publication in the Journal of Cosmetic Science, The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. The JOURNAL will consider manuscripts for publication in the following categories, provided they are prepared in proper scientific style and adequately referenced: • Original articles • Review articles • Technical notes • General articles • Preliminary communications • Letters to the Editor SUBMISSION OF MANUSCRIPTS Manuscripts submitted for publication should be accompanied by a cover letter and sent via e-mail to dscelso@scconline.org. Additional information is available from the SCC National Office: www.scconline.org.
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Upcoming 2015-16 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org December 10 NYSCC Social Media Holiday Party, New York, NY January 26 Product Development Symposium, The Grand Summit Hotel, Summit, NJ January 29 Ski Event, Location TBD February 18 Mintel PC Products Symposium, Location TBD March 22 Perfumery Association Joint Seminar Dinner Meeting, Chart House, Weehawken, NJ May 10-11 Suppliers’ Day, NJ Convention and Exposition Center, Edison, NJ June 8 NYSCC Cruise – Aqua Azul, Weehawken, NJ July 21 Golf Event, Location TBD September 6 In Vivo Test Methods for Personal Care Products, Location TBD October TBD Personal Professional Development, Location TBD Oct. 30-Nov. 2 IFSCC Congress, Orlando, FL November TBD Rheology Symposium, Location TBD
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NYSCC Social Media Party December 10, 2015
Stage 48 • 605 West 48th Street, New York, NY
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he New York Chapter of the SCC is organizing this event to show appreciation to those who make the Society of Cosmetic Chemists fun, educational, interactive and important for meeting and maintaining relationships throughout the Cosmetics industry. Registration is for all NYSCC members and their friends and family!
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Event chair: Giorgino Macalino (socialmedia@nyscc.org)
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