January 2021 • Vol. 27 • Issue 1
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Delighting Conscious Consumers with Biodesigned Ingredients …by Beatriz Blanco and Erin Kim
iotechnology is technology based on biology. It utilizes cellular and biomolecular processes to develop technologies and products which, when applied consciously, can help improve lives and consumer products, while being kinder to the planet.
One of these biological processes is fermentation. It is the process of breaking down sugar molecules into simpler compounds by microorganisms to produce substances that can be used to produce chemical energy. You are probably more familiar with microbial fermentation than you may realize. It has been used for making bread, wine, cheese, soy sauce, and other foods and beverages for millennia. At tiny scales beyond what is visible to the naked eye, the yeast ferments the sugars in dough, releasing CO2 in the process, which helps the bread rise. In the case of wine, yeast added to grape juice ferments the sugar in the juice into alcohol. Similarly, cheese is the product of bacteria fermenting milk or cream. In recent years, the personal care industry has also benefited from the use of fermentation. Ingredients traditionally extracted from animals such as hyaluronic acid, milk proteins, and sugars, are now being produced in cleaner, biology-based processes such as fermentation.
Biology can be an even more powerful tool when it is combined with design. Biodesign is the integration of design with biological systems in order to achieve aims such as better functional performance or improved sustainability, in contrast to design that simply mimics nature or draws upon biology for inspiration. Biodesign incorporates life itself—cells, proteins, enzymes, and amino acids, for example—into the design as building blocks, material, sources, and energy generators, just to name a few possibilities. An outstanding recent example of biodesign is the production of human collagen ex vivo, without any human or animal inputs. For the first time, microorganisms can now make pure human collagen types via fermentation when they are provided with the collagen’s amino acid sequence. Collagen is the primary structural component of connective tissue, such as skin and cartilage, in mammals and fish. It performs a key role in the formation of fibrillar and microfibrillar networks of the extracellular matrix, basement membranes, and other structures of the extracellular matrix. Therefore, collagen is essential for maintaining the youthful and supple appearance of human skin. Unfortunately, from the age of approximately 30 onwards the amount of collagen in our bodies naturally starts to decrease over time— even by as little as just 1% or 2% per year. Traditionally, collagen used in cosmetics was extracted from animals such as fish and pigs. In addition to being derived from animals, this type collagen is not biologically identical to human collagen and comes with an unpleasant odor. The use of biodesign makes it possible to produce vegan human collagen that is 100% animal-free and non-GMO certifiable. Since this collagen is identical to human collagen, it is readily bioavailable to our skin. This process is also much more environmentally friendly, because its animalfree production consumes less water, releases lower amounts of CO2 into the atmosphere, and uses less land. (continued on Page 4)
S O LV I N G D I F F I C U LT F O R M U L AT I O N I S S U E S
...see pages 7-8 for more information.
•
JANUARY 28th
2021 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Susanna Fernandes chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair-elect@nyscc.org Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc.org Secretary Leor Fay Tal secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Giorgino Macalino advisor@nyscc.org Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc.org By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com Social Media Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org
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Letter from the Chair
…Susanna Fernandes
hope everyone had a wonderful holiday season and a happy New Year! With 2020 in our rear-view mirror, I am excited and honored to be this year’s chair for NYSCC. While 2020 started out very stressful and unpredictable for the NYSCC, a lot of good came out in terms of growth and development, which is a true testament to the strength, dedication, and expertise of our members! I cannot acknowledge and thank enough the 2020 Chairman, Giorgino Macalino, and the Executive Board, for navigating us through an incredibly challenging and unforeseen time experienced by the entire world and the Chapter. The overarching theme for the Chapter in 2021 will be “Embracing Beauty,” and embodies what makes you different, makes you beautiful. We will also celebrate what our members create and illuminate our uniqueness and influence in the beauty and personal care industry. Elements of “Embracing Beauty,” will be highlighted each month and woven throughout our programs and initiatives. Don’t miss the first At Home Live Series for 2021 on “Fatty Acids and Triglycerides in Personal Care: The Relationship Between Melt Point, Saturation, and Oxidative Stability of Plant-Based Oils and Fats,” on Thursday, January 21st. The next week, January 28th, Event Chair, Howard Epstein will host a two-hour webinar covering “Solving Difficult Formulation Issues: Formulating, Testing, and Marketing.” Our program and event chairs are hard at work developing more relevant programs focused on diversity and inclusivity in product development, women in cosmetic chemistry, and clean beauty. Stay tuned for more details on these exciting and fresh programs. We are optimistic that we can meet in-person and virtually for North America’s main event for ingredient and formulation innovations and sourcing: Suppliers’ Day. Compliant protocols for a safe environment will be implemented and digital and live-streaming components will be added to reach the largest audience possible for this important industry event. I would like to congratulate and acknowledge my recently inducted fellow board members: Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Chair-Elect, Mohamed Abdulla, Treasurer, Leor Fay Tal, Secretary, and Giorgino Macalino, who will serve as Advisor. Together with this amazing board, dedicated volunteers, and passionate members we will be able to continue our mission of advancing cosmetic science. With a new year comes new opportunity, and a renewed sense of hope for the future. I wish you all the best in 2021: health, happiness, and success!
A
NYSCC Volunteers
s we prepare for the future, I would like to remind you that even during these unpredictable and challenging times, the NYSCC has remained a vibrant source of education and engagement. There is still time to be a part of this and make your mark in NYSCC history! As your Chair for 2021, I am in the midst of finalizing programming, special events, and awards programs. All of these events are conceptualized and brought to fruition by you, our members. Member volunteers gain incredible networking opportunities that span the globe while providing real value to their colleagues. If you have not already done so, I urge you to consider becoming a part of this incredible team! We are now accepting applications for volunteers: please click through and COMPLETE THE FORM to receive consideration for a volunteer position. After we review your application, we will contact you and arrange a call so together we can ascertain the best fit for you within our committees and future projects. Stay safe and I look forward to being with all of you in 2021! Susanna Fernandes 2021 NYSCC Chair 2
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Innovating beauty – clean and simple
Gain access to sustainable ingredients Natural and organic ingredients, powders, colors, proteins, surface treatments, and more. Learn more: (800) 687-3982 or brenntagpersonalcare.com.
EMBRACING BEAUTY A Celebration of What We Create VISIT WWW.NYSCC.ORG FOR THE LATEST ON ALL THAT IS HAPPENING IN 2021! Focusing on overcoming challenges and formulating for inclusivity and diversity, while inspiring creativity and innovation, NYSCC’s educational programs and Suppliers' Day for 2021 must be part of your curriculum. Take a look at what's being offered: AT HOME LIVE CONTINUES WITH SPOT-ON PROGRAMMING THAT IS FREE TO MEMBERS AND INDUSTRY EXECUTIVES AROUND THE GLOBE:
MONTHLY WEBINAR INTENSIVES WILL INCLUDE:
• Fatty Acids & Triglycerides
• Solving Difficult Formulation Issues
• Digital Age of Beauty – a Precursor to the LIVE program at Suppliers’ Day
• Formulating For Inclusion • Women in Cosmetics
• Elastomers – The New Wave of Sensory
• Wellness in Beauty
• Cleansing Trend
• Indie 360° 2.0
• Beyond Proteins
THESE PROGRAMS ARE A TICKLER FOR THE INTENSE ENGAGEMENT, INTERACTION AND INFORMATION EXCHANGE THAT ARE THE PILLARS OF NYSCC'S MISSION & ITS MAIN EVENT, SUPPLIERS’ DAY.
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Delighting Conscious Consumers with Biodesigned Ingredients
(continued from Page 1)
Biochemical Characterization
DISCOVER The Natural Choice
Characterization of collagen was carried out using SDS-PAGE. Collagenase is an enzyme that proteolytically digests collagens, but not other proteins. As with animal-derived collagens, the collagen derived by fermentation was treated with collagenase and digested in laboratory tests using SDS-PAGE, which is an electrophoresis technique that allows proteins to be separated based on differences in their molecular weight. The results of this analysis are provided in Figure 1.
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Figure 1: Comparison of collagenase digestion of shpolypeptide-121 (HumaColl21™) to commercially available (animal/fish) collagens and BSA. In the figure, PageRuler Plus MW is a pre-stained protein ladder (Lane 1) that corresponds to proteins of various molecular weights that serve as standards. As expected, collagenase (Lane 2) does not show any staining on the polyacrylamide gel. Shpolypeptide-121 (HumaColl21™) at T=0 and T=4 hours are in Lanes 3 and 4, respectively. Several commercial animal/fish collagens are seen in Lanes 5 through 10 and indicated as Competitor 2, Competitor 5, and Competitor 8. Lanes 11 and 12 correspond to bovine serum albumin (BSA) at T=0 and T=4 hours, respectively.
Physical Properties
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Like commercially available collagen hydrolysates, biodesigned collagens are highly soluble in water and are valued for water-binding properties. These collagens can form gels, and are demonstrated to have bloom values comparable to commercial gelatins.
Clinical Evaluation
In human clinical trials, biodesigned human collagen outperformed animal derived collagens in several areas including skin moisturization, reduction of lines and wrinkles, reduction of skin redness, and stimulation of collagen production in the skin. Figure 2 provides an example of the reduction in erythema as a result of repeated treatment with biodesigned human collagen analog. Figure 2: Clinical evaluation of a subject treated with sh-polypeptide-121 and the associated reduction in facial erythema. 4
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Concluding Remarks
Human collagen is just one example of a biodesigned ingredient, with others being developed using various biology-based technologies. Today, biodesigned ingredients are being formulated in skin creams, serums, cleansers, and masks. They are also used in hair masks and sprays, and hair and skin oils sold by leading brands in major global retailers. Biodesign allows the personal care industry to address the key consumer needs for sustainability and animal-free ethics, without compromising on performance and efficacy. The conscious consumer can find delight and peace of mind in using sustainable and cruelty-free personal care products powered by biodesign.
References
1. www.livescience.com/collagen.html 2. http://www.designdebates.nl/_pdf/whatIsBioDesign_10-5-12.pdf
About the Authors
n Beatriz Blanco
Beatriz is currently the Sales Manager for the East Coast of U.S. and Canada at Geltor. Beatriz was previously responsible for the Global Personal and Home Care Business at Momentive Performance Materials. She holds an M.S. in Polymers, Surfaces, and Colloids from Carnegie Mellon University, MBA from Fairleigh Dickinson University, and B.S. in Chemistry and Pharmacy from the Universidad de la Republica in Montevideo, Uruguay.
n Erin Kim
Erin leads Marketing and Communications at Geltor. Prior to joining the team, she spent a number of years on the non-profit side of consumer biology at New Harvest, working closely with an international network of scientists, engineers, designers, and entrepreneurs to build the field of “cellular agriculture� from grassroots to fledgling industry. Erin has also worked in legal advocacy and special education in her hometown of Vancouver, Canada. She is moved by foresight; bringing humanity and authenticity to storytelling around breakthrough technologies; and the power of community for startups and established brands alike. Erin completed her B.A. at the University of British Columbia, and a J.D. at the University of Alberta.
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Fatty Acids and Triglycerides in Personal Care: The Relationship Between Melt Point, Saturation, and Oxidative Stability of Plant-based Oils and Fats January 21, 2021
Benjamin Schwartz (AAK Inc.)
n this presentation, we will review the molecular structure of triglycerides and the fatty acids that compose them in order to gain insights into how the various compositions of oils and fats affect their behavior and functionality in personal care products. Emphasis will be placed on examining the interdependent relationship between the melt point, degree of saturation, and oxidative stability of various fatty acid containing plant oils and fats. We will also introduce the idea of a solid fat curve and how it relates to the complex behavior and composition of plant-based fats. To register, visit the At Home Live Series 2.0 section in the Events menu at www.nyscc.org.
n Benjamin Schwartz
Benjamin Schwartz is a Senior Personal Care Application Specialist at AAK Inc., and based in California, USA. He has over 18 years of experience in the cosmetic industry working in R&D for both global brands and contract manufacturers. An award-winning speaker, Benjamin brings intimate knowledge and insight of plant-based lipids for personal care and cosmetic applications.
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NYSCC Programs
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Solving Difficult Formulation Issues: Formulating, Testing, and Marketing January 28, 2021 Event Chair: Howard Epstein, Ph.D.
ormulators are increasingly challenged to create new cosmetic products with limited resources of time and money. For a product to resonate with demanding consumers, formulation “must haves” include innovation, product performance, and elegance. An online survey indicates that there are approximately 16,000 ingredients listed in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) list. The list of ingredients is constantly growing. While this huge availability of cosmetic ingredients creates the opportunity to formulate winning products, it comes with the possibility of a formulation challenge: How do the experienced experts solve formulation challenges? Four internationally recognized experts will describe a formulation or testing for product claims challenge they have experienced and how the challenge was solved.
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How to Use Knockout Experiments to Become an Expert Formulator – Perry Romanowski
n Mark Chandler
Mark Chandler is President of ACT Solutions Corp (Adaptive Cosmetic Technology Solutions), a formulation design consultancy and laboratory founded in 2012, serving the cosmetic and topical pharmaceutical industries, focusing on Adaptive Aesthetic Design™, Advanced Emulsion Solutions™, and Formulating for Efficacy™. Mark has been in the industry for over 35 years, most recently serving as skin care applications manager for Croda, Inc. He has had roles in Sales, Marketing, Strategic Planning and Acquisitions, and Research and Development. Mark has taught courses for the SCC, CfPA, and SpecialChem on Cosmetic Formulation, Cosmetic Raw Materials, Liquid Foundation Emulsions, Practical Basics and Theory in Emulsion Technology, Formulating for Efficacy, (continued on Page 8)
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Andrew Minczuk 201-259-7245 andrew.minczuk@colonialchem.com
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(continued from Page 7)
Surfactant Selection, Formulating with Food Ingredients, and Low Energy Emulsification for over 20 years. Mark also is a lecturer in the Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design program at the University of Toledo – College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences. He was awarded Fellow status by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in 2014 and is currently serving on the SCC national board as Treasurer (transitioning in 2021 to VP-Elect through to President in 2023.) Mark has presented technology throughout North and South America, Europe, Asia, and Australia. He has authored numerous technical articles and chapters in publications such as Harry’s Cosmeticology and the Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology.
n Perry Romanowski
Perry Romanowski is an independent cosmetic chemist who has spent over 25 years developing products in the personal care and cosmetic industry. He has worked on both hair and skin care products. He is currently Vice-President of Element 44 Inc., which specializes in science education. He is a long-time instructor for the SCC continuing education program and has authored or edited 6 books in cosmetic science plus numerous articles. In 2009, Romanowski created the Practical Cosmetic Formulating online training program to provide cosmetic chemists continuing education across a broad range of formula categories. He served as the 2018 President of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) and most recently as the 2020 Chair of the Midwest SCC. Previously, Romanowski worked for Alberto Culver serving as a senior project leader for hair care innovation. Additionally, he has made appearances on popular TV shows including the Dr. Oz and Rachel Ray show. Romanowski received his B.S. in Chemistry from DePaul University and also studied Biochemistry. He is the founder and creator of the ChemistsCorner.com website dedicated to teaching cosmetic science.
n Tony O’Lenick
Tony O’Lenick is currently President and founder of Nascent Technologies Corporation. Nascent Technologies Corp. is a consulting, intellectual property, and product development company making products that have a reduced environmental footprint for the personal care industry. Tony was President and co-founder of Siltech LLC in Dacula, Georgia for 31 years. Prior to that he held technical and executive positions at Alkaril Chemicals Inc, Henkel Corporation, and Mona Industries. Tony is the author of seven books and numerous articles. He has also published in trade journals and is the inventor of over 300 patents and teaches a course in silicone chemistry at SCC. He has received a number of awards for his work including the 1996 Samuel Rosen Award given by the American Oil Chemists’ Society, the 1997 Innovative Use of Fatty Acids Award given by the Soap and Detergents Association, and the Partnership to The Personal Care Award given by the Advanced Technology Group.
n K.P. Ananth (Ananthapadmanabhan)
Dr. K.P. Ananth (Ananthapadmanabhan) is a professor and the director of the Cosmetic Science Programs at the College of Pharmacy at University of Cincinnati. Ananth obtained his B. Tech. from Indian Institute of Technology in Mumbai in 1974. He obtained his M.S. and D. Eng. Sci. degrees in 1976 and 1980, respectively, from Columbia University in New York, specializing in surfactants and colloids. Ananth spent three years as a post-doctoral fellow and adjunct faculty member at Columbia University and then joined Union Carbide Corporation at their Surface Chemistry Skill Center in Tarrytown, New York. In 1990, Ananth moved to Unilever R&D, initially in Edgewater, New Jersey and then in Trumbull, Connecticut and spent the next 26+ years in various capacities in the personal care area including leading their longer-term skin cleansing research. He is an author/coauthor of 125+ publications and 35+ patents. He also co-edited a book titled Interactions of Surfactants with Polymers and Proteins. 8
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2021 NYSCC Events Calendar
• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org January 21
Fatty Acids and Triglycerides in Personal Care – Virtual Event
January 28
Solving Difficult Formulation Issues – Virtual Event
February 18
Formulation for Inclusion – Virtual Event
February 25
Digital Age of Beauty – Virtual Event
March TBD
Women in Cosmetics – Virtual Event
April TBD
Wellness in Beauty – Virtual Event
May 4-5
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY
May 4-5
NYSCC Awards Night 2020 – Stage 48, New York, NY
May TBD
Exposome – Virtual Event
June TBD
Antioxidants Symposium – Seasons Catering, Washington Township, NJ
July TBD September TBD
NYSCC Golf Outing – Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg, NJ All About the Skin – Chart House, Weehawken, NJ
October TBD
NYSCC Culinary Event – Location TBD
October TBD
Indie 360 2.0 – Location TBD
November TBD December 14
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Color Event – Lightbox, New York, NY NYSCC Supports Education, New York, NY
Call for Papers December 14-15
SCC Annual Scientific Meeting, New York, NY
he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
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