Cosmetiscope January 2023

When Was the Last Time You Really Looked at a Spiderweb?

…Donna Vigilante

Did you ever notice how a spider web holds water after a rainstorm? And, how once you disturb the web the water is released? That is the principle behind the moisture matrix of glyceryl acrylate/ acrylic acid copolymer technology The moisture matrices created are called clathrates. A clathrate is a group of molecules enclosed within a cage from which they cannot escape until the structure is destroyed When a series of cages are linked together a matrix is for med and with the addition of water, a moisture matrix is created.

Sounds simple but producing organic chemical structures that hold moisture is a challenge. A clathrate's water capacity depends on the size of the void in the cage molecule The cage does not covalently bond with the water but holds it due to the combination of hydrogen bonding and van der Waals forces The glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer cage holds a remarkably high percentage of water This leads to a moisturization quality far superior to classical moisturizing ingredients.

Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer is structured in such a manner that pH, ionic strength, surface moisture, and temperature at the epidermal layer of the skin create a reversible clathrate This reversibility brings about a moisture balancing effect Rather than just rewetting or super fatting the skin, a reversible clathrate releases moisture where and when it is needed and avoids over moisturizing healthy skin This occurs because glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer products are skin activated. They are most effective in a pH range of 5 0 – 5 5, the usual pH range of skin

Clathrates created from glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer do not only work well on the skin. They also work inside your package stabilizing the emulsion This stabilizing effect increases the shelf life of your product and ensures that it will look and feel the same each time your customer applies it As you would expect from materials that help keep your product stable, glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer is also stable Research has shown the viscosity of this product to be very stable at various temperatures over time Even after years, there is little noticeable change

Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer products come in a variety of grades and offer many benefits including superior moisturization, slip, lubricity, suspension, and exceptional after-feel These products are easy to use and can be added during the water phase or post emulsion. They provide the for mulator with flexibility to create their desired aesthetics in creams, lotions, foundations, face masks, and more Glyceryl acylate/acrylic acid copolymer products are non-oily, clear, water-soluble, cold processable, biodegradable, high in natural origin content, China listed, Halal, and RSPO certified

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2023 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE

Chair Stacey House chair@nyscc org

Chair-Elect

Amber Evans chair-elect@nyscc.org

Treasurer

Alex Blakeman treasurer@nyscc.org

Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc.org

Advisor Giorgio Dell’Acqua advisor@nyscc org

Program

Cathy Piterski program@nyscc org

At Home Live Series Susanna Fer ndandes Susanna Fer nandes@tri-k com

By-Laws

Amy Marshall amy marshall@altana com

Communications

Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org

Special Events

Johanna Gigliotti johanna.e.gigliotti@gmail.com

Cosmetiscope Editor

Roger Mcmullen roger mcmullen@fdu edu

Cosmetiscope Advertising

Bret Clark rbclark@ashland com

Social Media

Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc org

Letter from the Chair …Stacey House

Welcome 2023! This year, the NYSCC chapter will focus on reimagining renewal and wellness. I am excited and humbled to be this year ’ s Chair and want to thank you for this honor and support. I also want to thank and acknowledge our previous Chair, Giorgio Dell’Acqua, for his amazing leadership and vision of bringing science and sustainability to the forefront of the Chapter’s activities

My sincere gratitude also goes to last year ’ s Board members whom I enjoyed working with and appreciate all their efforts in helping this Chapter have such a successful year retur ning to a full slate of in-person events and engaging webinars. I especially would like to thank Treasurer, Mohamed Abdulla and Advisor, Susanna Fer nandes, whose ter ms on the Executive Board have come to an end

I can’t think of a better way to kick off the New Year and recharge our minds and body than with a blog crafted by our Scientific Advisory Committee focusing on “Inside/Out Mind Body Balance,” which will be followed up and reinforced with our first AHLS of the year on February 2, 2023, where we are aiming to include a chair yoga and/or meditation session

A favorite chapter social activity is also retur ning with a Ski Trip planned on February 3rd at W indham Mountain along with the Long Island SCC chapter Enjoy a day out on the slopes and then wind down and reconnect with members from our sister chapter at a Happy Hour at Seasons on the Mountain.

Our first in-person event will be on February 28th at the Chart House with a dinner focused on a trending product category, Hair Care and Wellness. In addition, our program committee and event chairs are hard at work planning the rest of this year ’ s robust slate of activities and events, including fresh and relevant content on sun care, pro-aging, biodegradability, waterless technologies, sustainability, the world of color, fragrance, and so much more.

Please mark your calendar for our main industry event, Suppliers’ Day, May 2-3 at the Jacob K Javits Convention Center in New York City. We plan to bring our theme of reimagining renewal and wellness to life with several new activations and educational programs Stay tuned for exciting updates and show enhancements in the coming months

Also note that the Call for Presentations is now open for Suppliers’ Day and you are encouraged to submit a program outline that examines trends, technologies, and solutions that are driving innovation. The deadline is January 31st. Click HERE to enter your submission.

In closing, I would like to congratulate and acknowledge my recently inducted fellow board members: Amber Evans, Chair-Elect; Alex Blakeman, Treasurer; Luciana Coutinho, Secretary; and Giorgio Dell’Acqua, who will serve as Advisor Together with dedicated volunteers and passionate members, we will fulfill our promise to deliver industry-relevant content, advanced education to our members, and support students and young professionals with even more scholarships and mentoring programs and activities

A new year brings new opportunity and a renewed optimism for the future I wish you: health, happiness, and success in 2023!

When Was the Last Time You Really Looked at a Spiderweb? (continued from Page 1)

About the Author:

Donna V igilante is the V ice President/R&D Manager at UnitedGuardian, Inc a manufacturer of cosmetic and personal care ingredients Donna has over 15 years of experience working in the personal care manufacturing industry and has held roles in both the quality and development departments. She has a M.Ed. from Dowling College and B S in Biochemistry from Stony Brook University Donna can be reached at dvigilante@u-g com

BEAUTY

The NYSCC History Project The Early History of Suppliers’ Day – Steve Herman

The first attempt by the NYSCC to hold a Suppliers Day event was in 1979. There was not enough supplier interest, and the plan was dropped In 1980 the second try was a success with 66 booths and led to steady growth of the event Records from 40 years ago are scarce, but in June 1985 HAPPI Magazine published a report:

“When the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists held its first Suppliers’ Day exhibit in May 1980, several dozen suppliers exhibited their materials and services for several hundred people Last month, at the sixth annual program, some 700 industry members toured 94 booths at the crowded Birchwood Manor, Whippany NJ, according to Frank DeMonico, of Van Dyk, exhibit chair man There were 330 at the dinner that followed ”

By May 22, 1988, Suppliers’ Day was at the Aspen Manor Hotel in Parsippany, New Jersey The best guess for venues during the early years is:

• 1980 – Neptune Inn, Paramus

• 1981 – Neptune Inn, Paramus

• 1982 – Neptune Inn, Paramus

• 1983 – The Bethwood, Totowa

• 1984 – The Bethwood, Totowa

• 1985 – Birchwood Manor, Whippany

• 1986 – Birchwood Manor, Whippany

• 1987 – Birchwood Manor, Whippany

After five years at the Aspen, Suppliers’ Day moved to the Meadowlands Convention Center on May 22, 1993, and the days when the event could fit in the confines of a hotel ball room were over forever.

NYSCC Ski Trip

February 3, 2023 Windham Mountain

It’s that time of the year!

You ’ re invited to join the NYSCC and LISCC Chapter members for one to two days of skiing or snowboarding. We have discounted lift tickets for Friday, February 3rd, 2023 This is a family event so children and other invited guests are welcome

8:30 – 10:00 a.m.

Pick up lift tickets from Team Leader

3:30 – 5:00 p.m.

Happy Hour at Seasons Restaurant on the mountain

To register for this event, go to the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org)

Location

W indham Mountain, 19 Resort Drive, W indham, NY 12496

Pricing

• Adult Lift Ticket: (Ages 18 & up) $75

• Youth Lift Ticket: (Ages 7-17) $54

• Rentals: Please purchase in advance online only on the website (windhammountain.com).

• Equipment Breakage Insurance: Please purchase in advance online only on the website (windhammountain.com).

Note

Weekend and holiday lift tickets can only be purchased online at the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org)

Event Chairs

Aga Pawlik

E-mail: apawlik@grantinc.com

Mobile: 551-795-1400

Proud Sponsor:

Johanna Gigliotti

E-mail: Johanna.e.gigliotti@gmail.com

Hair Care and Wellness

February 28, 2023

5:00 – 8:00 p.m.

The Chart House, Weehawken, New Jersey

Event Co-Chairs

Amber Evans, Ph.D. and Farahdia Edouard

For more infor mation, and to register for the event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

2023 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC infor mation, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org

• For National SCC infor mation: www.scconline.org

February 3 Ski Trip, Windham Mountain, NY

February 15 At Home Live Series, Focusing on Biotechnology – V irtual Event

February 28 Hair Care and Wellness, The Chart House, Weehawken, NJ

March 23 Sunscreen Innovations, Pleasantdale Château, South Orange, NJ

April 20 Earth Day, Liberty House, Jersey City, NJ

May 2-3 Suppliers’ Day, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

Sunscreen Innovations and History/ Formulation of Dyhydroxyacetone (DHA) for Sunless Tanning

March 23, 2023 • 4:30 – 8:45 p.m.

Pleasantdale Château, South Orange, New Jersey Agenda 4:30 – 5:00 p

5:00 – 5:15 p m

and Opening Comments

5:15 – 5:40 p m Status Update on Hybrid Method ISO 23698 for In Vitro SPF Testing

– Eduardo Ruvolo, Ph.D. (Beiersdorf)

5:40 – 6:25 p m Cocktail Hour

6:25 - 6:50 p.m. Self-Tanning, History of DHA, and For mulating Considerations

– Howard Epstein, Ph.D. (EMD Electronics)

–

Creating a Transparent Sunscreen for Diverse Skin Tones Using Mineral Filters

Maitree Kanjilal (Kobo Products)

7:50 – 8:15 p.m. Your Ideal Bodygard: The Use of Fused-Ring Cyanoacrylate Chemistry to Accompany Sunscreens in the Battle Against Photoaging

– Tia Alkazaz (Hallstar Beauty) 8:15 – 8:45 p m

– Wrap Up

Event Chair

Howard Epstein, Ph.D.

• E-mail: Howard Epstein@EMDgroup com

For more infor mation, and to register for the event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).