January 2024 • Vol. 30 • Issue 1
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Naturally Derived Rheology Modifiers and Emulsion Stabilizers …Hani Fares
odern-day formulators have relied on polymers to stabilize oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions much more than surfactants. The introduction of polyacrylic acid-derived polymers many years ago enabled formulators to develop stable emulsions with minimal effort. Formulators used polymers as their primary stabilizers, and they selected the surfactants and esters to tailor the texture and sensorial properties of emulsions. In fact, polyacrylic acid-based polymers enabled steric stabilization of emulsions due to their anionic charge and contributed to the entropic stabilization due to their ability to bind water very efficiently. The art of formulation using the concepts of hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) almost became extinct and was replaced by the fast-paced polymeric stabilization. In recent years, consumers have been driving the trend of naturality demanding that manufacturers formulate their products with naturally derived ingredients rather than fossil-based ones. This push towards naturality forces formulators to remove their fossil-derived polymers from their products and replace them with their naturally derived counterparts. At the same time, formulators are also replacing their efficient polyoxyethylene-based (POE) surfactants with polyglyceryl based ones since POE is no longer in vogue with some consumer groups. One can say that formulators, who have been spoiled for many years with ease of formulation and guaranteed stability outcomes, are faced with one of the biggest challenges in recent history. To fill the gap, the search for an identical, naturally derived replacement of polyacrylic acid-based polymers has created a frenzy among finished goods companies and raw material suppliers. The first instinct for many formulators is to step back and rely on the good old substitute, xanthan gum. Produced by fermentation, xanthan gum is considered naturally derived. It is used at relatively low concentrations and has good yield value. Although xanthan gum has many good attributes, it still has several draw backs. First, its impact on viscosity is minimal and does not build efficiently in formulation. Second, it adds negative slip and tack properties to formulations which is quite undesirable. Third, its effect on stability is positive but not nearly as much as polyacrylic-based polymers. Formulators need to make several trials before achieving good stability with xanthan gum. Another substitute ingredient is starch. Starches have been used to thicken and generate yield in emulsions for many years. An example of a commonly used starch ingredient is hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. Starches typically work over a wide pH range (pH 3 – pH 9) and have good salt tolerance. However, starches are not efficient thickeners as they must be used between 1 – 4% (w/w) in the emulsion to impart stability. When a high level of polymer is used in emulsions it not only reduces the (continued on Page 5)
NYSCC HITS THE SLOPES •
JANUARY 19TH
...see page 8 for more information.
2024 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Amber Evans chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect John Carola chair-elect@nyscc.org Treasurer Alex Blakeman treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Diane Dabkowski treasurer-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Mythili Nori secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Stacey House advisor@nyscc.org Program Alexis Piterski program@nyscc.org At Home Live Series Susanna Fernandes Susanna.Fernandes@tri-k.com
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Letter from the Chair
…Amber Evans
heers to 2024! I am excited and honored to serve as this year’s Chapter Chair. As someone who has supported the NYSCC and benefited greatly from its resources and membership, I am truly proud to represent the Chapter at this level. As the Chapter moves into its 70th year, the theme is “Inspire. Innovate. Celebrate.” Our foundation will be built on leveraging inspiration from all sources to influence innovation in our industry. This will be a common thread throughout all our programming and will have a strong presence during NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, our flagship event and leading tradeshow for cosmetic chemistry and formulations. This year will also be full of celebration as we honor the Chapter’s milestone, accomplishments, and members! Be sure to check out the new Cosmetiscope section “NYSCC Celebrates!” on page 10, where we will celebrate each other. I hope that you will join us on the slopes at our fun Annual Ski Trip on January 19th at Belleayre Mountain and then tune in to our first AHLS Webinar program of 2024 featuring an important MoCRA update presented and co-sponsored by IBA on January 31st. This year, we will also have new programming devoted to relevant topics including oral care, beauty supplements, pet care, hair care, and skin care inclusivity. Visit the NYSCC Events Schedule at https://nyscc.org/eventschedule/ for a listing of what you can anticipate each month in 2024! I am excited to share that plans for Suppliers’ Day on May 1st-2nd are coming together very nicely. Please note that January 15th is the deadline to submit presentation abstracts. The details of our other initiatives will be shared in the coming months. We will continue to increase our empowerment and outreach efforts as we amplify the Chapter’s position as a key resource for students, professionals, and communities. Additionally, we will continue to foster collaborative relationships with external industry players to deliver greater impact. As a final point, I want to thank the past leadership for their unwavering dedication to delivering a very successful year for the Chapter. I look forward to working with current executive board members John Carola, Mythili Nori, Diane Dabkowski, Alex Blakeman, and Stacey House, as well as our team of devoted committee members and partners, to accomplish my vision and continue the NYSCC’s mission of advancing cosmetic science and elevating the role and prominence of chemists. I wish everyone a healthy and prosperous 2024 filled with many happy moments to celebrate!
By-Laws and Membership Cathy Piterski cpiterski@essentialingredients.com Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org House Chair Afam Okoro house@nyscc.org
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NYSCC Issues Call for Presentations
Special Events Johanna Gigliotti johanna.e.gigliotti@gmail.com
ake advantage of thought leadership positioning at the premier event on personal care ingredients and formulations in North America. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day will take place on May 1-2, 2024, at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. Programs will focus on the global marketplace and specific segments will include Biotechnology in Beauty and Personal Care, Color Cosmetics, Beauty Tech, Microbiome, Global Cosmetics Marketplace, Fragrance, Indie Trends, Sustainability, Hair Care Trends, Diversity/ Inclusion, and Wellness. Submit your presentation description and details today at the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day website.
Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com 2
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2024 NYSCC Events Calendar
• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org January 19
NYSCC Hits the Slopes Belleayre Mountain, Highmount, NY
January 31
IBA-NYSCC Joint Event: MoCRA Update Virtual Event
February 29
The Next Generation of Hair Care Il Villaggio, Carlstadt, NJ
March 28
Beauty from Within: Next Level Beauty Care and Wellness Strategies Location TBD
April 11
NYSCC Celebrates Earth Day Location TBD
May 1-2
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY
May 1
NYSCC Awards Night: “The Future of Beauty” LAVAN Midtown, New York, NY
June 6
Sunscreen Formulations: Misconceptions and Future Directions for Innovation Location TBD
July 15
NYSCC Golf Outing Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg, NJ
August 10
NYSCC Fishing Trip and Seafood Boil Atlantic Highlands, NJ
September 10
Skin Care Inclusivity: Caring for Melanated Skin Location TBD
September 20
NYSCC Culinary Event Location TBD
October 15
Emerging Trends in Oral Health and Beauty Location TBD
November 1
Pet Care and Grooming Virtual Event
November 16
70th Anniversary Gala and NYSCC Supports Education Night Location TBD
November 20
Hear from the CEW Supplier’s Award Judges on this Year’s Top Ingredients and Formulations Virtual Event
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Naturally Derived Rheology Modifiers and Emulsion Stabilizers
(continued from Page 1)
available water for the surfactant to behave properly but also imparts a certain texture to the formulation which might not be very desirable. Recently, several companies introduced a variety of gums to stabilize emulsions. One example is diutan gum. Diutan is a high molecular weight polysaccharide (5000 KDa) with a relatively low charge density on the backbone, which is comprised of several sugars, namely glucose, glucoronate, and rhamnose. Diutan seems to be electrolyte tolerant and builds higher viscosities than xanthan gum when combined with low levels of electrolytes. However, it does not build enough viscosity on its own. Several manufacturers tried combining natural gums to achieve good emulsion esthetics and stability. One example is xanthan gum combined with sclerotium gum and pullulan. Other examples are the combination of acacia gum with gellan gum, xanthan gum with guar gum, and acacia gum with xanthan gum. Such combinations could be good options, but finished goods formulators tend to lean more towards single ingredient substitutes as they do not crowd the ingredient label and offer greater flexibility in formulation. In addition, many of these combinations have similar esthetics and do not offer a robust stability profile. More recently, a new grade of cellulose gum was launched. This type of cellulose can suspend and has a yield value which separates it from common cellulose gums. This readily biodegradable polymer was used in stabilizing O/W emulsions made with organic sunscreens as well as inorganic sunscreens. In one example, formulators were able to develop an O/W inorganic sunscreen formulation containing 20% (w/w) zinc oxide. The polymer showed great synergies with currently available, naturally derived polymers like xanthan gum and hydrophobically modified hydroxyethylcellulose. In addition, the polymer appeared to yield viscosities similar to that achieved by polyacrylic acid when used alone or in combination with other naturally derived thickeners. As a formulator, I am still hopeful in finding an exact replica of a polyacrylic acid type polymer that is naturally derived, biodegradable, efficient, low cost, and esthetically pleasing. At one point, reality will sink in and we will realize that such a polymer does not exist. The mere fact is that the chemical make-up of the backbone of the polymer will be different, and unlike polyacrylic-acid based polymers, the natural ones are typically not crosslinked. Instead, many of the naturally derived options are linear polymers with some branching. In this fast-paced environment, formulators will have to adapt and sharpen their formulation skills. They will use their creativity to produce amazing textures with the toolbox they currently have until new technology is introduced or new market trends appear.
About the Author
Dr. Fares started his career in personal care studying the effect of solvents on sunscreen chemicals. His interest in skin drug delivery, especially from polymeric matrices, evolved during his graduate work at Rutgers University, where he received his Ph.D. Dr. Fares worked at Block Drug and GlaxoSmithKline where he held positions in Research and Development in the areas of Skin Care and Oral Care. Then, he joined L’Oréal where he held several positions of increasing responsibility, ultimately serving as Assistant Vice-President of Skin Care. He is currently the Senior Director of Skin Care and Oral Care at Ashland Specialty Ingredients. Dr. Fares is the author of many publications and patents in the areas of Sun Care, Skin Care, and Oral Care and has made many presentations at national and international conferences. He chairs the NYSCC Scientific Committee and has won multiple awards in the areas of sun care and polymer chemistry.
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NYSCC History Project
A
...Steve Herman
The NYSCC – Early Decade Milestones
s the calendar flips to 2024, it is a perfect time to reflect back 70 years to the birth of the NYSCC, and to see how the Chapter evolved in decade leaps in the first 40 years.
n 1954 At a meeting of the Board of Directors of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists on May 14, 1954, Michael Stanton, a member of the Chicago Section, proposed the establishment of the New York Section. “Chapters” were then called “Sections”. Stanton wrote a letter dated September 20th inviting industry leaders to a dinner to discuss founding the section. At the dinner on September 29, 1954, forty-seven attendees made plans to hold eight meetings per year beginning in January 1955. The first meeting of the New York Chapter was held on October 27, 1954. The by-laws were written and adopted at this meeting. Stanton was elected the first Chairman.
NYSCC officers in 1955 from left to right: Theodore Ostrowski, Treasurer; William Lambert, Chairman-Elect; Michael A. Stanton, Chairman and founder of the NYSCC in 1954; Warren B. Dennis Jr., Secretary.
________________________________________________________________ n 1964 • Chairman Henry Maso • Secretary George Fioto • Treasurer Herbert Levetown At the meeting on January 8, 1964, it was announced that the NYSCC would have a monthly newsletter. The first editor was Shirley DeRagon. (In January 1979 the newsletter was renamed Cosmetiscope.) On December 1, 1964, membership reached a total of 440 people. The first Chapter Award was presented on September 9, 1964, to Dr. Peter Bartels (Leitz Co.) for his paper “Quantitative microscopy in the cosmetic industry”, which was published in the August 1964 issue of the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (now known as the Journal of Cosmetic Science). The award was inscribed on a scroll and included a check for $250.00.
Mr. Charles Fox, right, presents a plaque to Mr. Henry Maso in recognition of his services as 1964 Chairman of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, New York Chapter, at the October 13, 1965, monthly meeting.
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n 1974 • Chairman Bernard Foss • Secretary Alicia Hebb • Treasurer Gerry Goldberg Attendance at the first four meetings ranged from 96 to 158 people per meeting. Total membership for the Chapter was 1,083 individuals. The Sixth Annual University Meeting was held at St. John’s University on October 2, 1975. Dr. John Sciarra, Professor of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, was the principal speaker. ________________________________________________________________ n 1984 • Chairman Harvey S. Schnur • Secretary Steven LaBruto • Treasurer Dan Geary Membership declined to approximately 1,200 after 150 members were lost to the newly formed Connecticut Chapter. The Board voted to establish a Program Advisory Committee as a standing committee. The Chapter contributed $1,000 to Fairleigh Dickinson University (FDU) for the Masters in Cosmetic Science lectures to pay for honorariums under the condition that NYSCC members be allowed to attend the lectures free of charge. The FDU program, founded by Dr. Sal Gimelli, graduated its first two students, NYSCC members Anna Gripp and Colleen (Hart) Rocafort.
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Harvey S. Schnur, 1984 Chair of the NYSCC.
________________________________________________________________ n 1994 • Chairman Kenneth Klein • Secretary Mike Helioff • Treasurer William Barlics To increase socializing, the meetings changed from a sit-down dinner to a cocktail hour and buffet. Also instituted was a policy whereby unemployed and emeritus members could attend meetings for free. The Spring Seminar attendance had been in decline, bottoming out at less than 75 attendees in 1993. Mary Davis accepted the challenge of reviving the seminar and more than 325 individuals attended “Skin Care – The State of the Art”. The May 18th Suppliers’ Day had grown into the biggest event in the industry and was held at the Meadowlands Convention Center for the second time.
Kenneth Klein, 1994 Chair of the NYSCC.
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NYSCC Ski Trip
Friday, January 19, 2024 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
Discovery Lodge, Belleayre Mountain Highmount, NY
CSR program Naturally committed to a sustainable world
G
et ready to hit the slopes at Belleayre Mountain in the beautiful Catskill region of New York state! The NYSCC is sponsoring a trip to Belleayre on Friday, January 19th. • Group rates are as follows:
Adult (20+): $51
Youth (7-19): $39
• Rentals and lessons must be purchased online as far in advance as possible. Day of sales cannot be guaranteed. • The NYSCC will provide bus service from Paramus Park in Paramus, NJ (location subject to change). • Event Chair: Cathy Piterski (cpiterski@essentialingredients.com) To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC web site (www.nyscc.org).
Long Island SCC Ski Trip
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February 2, 2024 • Killington, VT
his year for our annual Long Island SCC Ski Trip we are returning to Killington, VT. Ensure you register ASAP! DO NOT WAIT TO REGISTER! We have negotiated a group discounted rate (20% off). Costs will increase significant as the date of the event approaches. Please sign up for tickets and rentals directly on the Killington weblink. Create an account or refill your OnePass at: https://www.killington.com/plan-your-trip/ticketspasses/lift-tickets. Use the code: SOCCHEMIST2169. This link is only valid until February 2nd. Lessons are also available, but not discounted. Please e-mail Ina Schlenoff (ischleno@estee.com; 631-531-1244) or Vlad Onyshchak (vonyshchak@estee.com; 631-531-1726) for inquiries and to sign up for the trip. Please include your full name, cell phone number, and e-mail address.
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Meet the 2024 NYSCC Executive Board
he NYSCC new executive board was officially installed during the NYSCC Supports Education Night by Akshay Talati, SCC Vice-President, on Tuesday, December 12, 2023, at the Edison Ballroom in New York City.
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Shown from left to right in the photograph are Mythili Nori, Secretary; Diane Dabkowski, Treasurer-Elect; Alex Blakeman, Treasurer; John Carola, Chair-Elect; Dr. Amber O. Evans, Chair; and Dr. Akshay Talati, SCC Vice-President.
2024 NYSCC Executive Board
• Dr. Amber O. Evans, Chair • John Carola, Chair-Elect
Business Development – Personal Care and Cosmetic Division, Katonah Chemical
• Alex Blakeman, Treasurer
Senior Director of Technologies, Superior Materials Inc.
• Diane Dabkowski, Treasurer-Elect
Senior Manager of R&D Technical Services Organization, Avon (member of Natura & Co.)
• Mythili Nori, Secretary
Senior Scientist, Performance and Claims, BASF Corp.
• Stacey House, Advisor
Senior Vice-President, Consumer Beauty, R&D, COTY Inc.
“I am honored to provide leadership to this chapter and guide its future growth,” said Dr. Amber Evans. “Thank you to my predecessor, Stacey House, for her guidance and support and bringing this chapter to new heights. Together with this amazing board, dedicated committee members, and countless volunteers, we will continue our strong mission of providing top education in cosmetic science and enhancing professional and industry development.” Dr. Evans and the 2024 NYSCC Executive Board will also continue its outreach to students about careers and opportunities in cosmetic science. Other initiatives will focus on inspiring innovation and celebrating all that the NYSCC community creates.
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NYSCC Celebrates!
n the spirit of this year’s theme of “Inspire. Innovate. Celebrate.” we are excited to launch “NYSCC Celebrates!”, a Cosmetiscope section that celebrates the accomplishments of NYSCC members. The accomplishment could be something professional like a promotion or new degree, or something personal such as writing a book or winning/placing in a major competition. This serves as a platform for our talented and multifaceted NYSCC members to proudly shine.
We celebrate the following members this month:
BEAUTY
begins here.
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Roger McMullen, Ph.D. (Ashland) was recently awarded the Maison G. de Navarre Medal Award, the highest honor of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC), for his significant and vast technical contributions to the cosmetic industry.
Marie Thadal (Coptis) has released an inspirational memoir entitled Stability, The Belle of the Ball.
Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D. (Nutrafol / Unilever) was installed as 2024 Secretary of National SCC.
Amy Marshall (Eckart) was installed as a member of the 2024 National SCC Board of Directors.
If you would like to be featured in an upcoming “NYSCC Celebrates!”, please send your special accomplishment to roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu. We look forward to celebrating YOU! 10
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Inspired by nature – Realized by science
mibellebiochemistry.com
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