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FEBRUARY 2015 • Vol. 21 No. 2

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists

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Applications of Maleic Anhydride Chemistry in Skin Care, Biomedical Devices, and Transdermal Delivery. Part II … by Roger L. McMullen

n the first article of this series, we discussed several applications of maleic anhydride chemistry to phenomenon occurring in skin. Copolymers of maleic anhydride are used universally in the biomedical industry as bioadhesives, allowing for the attachment of biomedical devices to the skin. Not surprising, the same types of polymers found their way into personal care adhesive strips designed to remove unwanted keratotic debris. In a much different application, maleic anhydride derivatives maneuvered into antiperspirant formulations where they help to reduce the concentration of aluminum salts. Transdermal drug delivery is another explosive area where hydrogels made of maleic anhydride polymers act as key ingredients of the delivery formulation. As you will see in the paragraphs that follow there have been many advances made in optimizing transdermal delivery components over the last decade. Much of this understanding comes from studies aimed at exploiting the hydrogel properties of maleic anhydride polymers used in conjunction with plasticizing agents. Moreover, maleic anhydride derivatives have been at the forefront of key advances in transdermal delivery including microneedles and nanoparticle technology.

Transdermal Patch Applications Maleic anhydride copolymers have been incorporated into the most basic transdermal delivery vehicle known as the patch. The essential components of the bioadhesive patch consist of a bioadhesive polymer in combination with a backing material (e.g., nylon), plasticizer, and pharmaceutical active ingredient to be delivered to skin. The plasticizer is a key component of this formulation. In the case of poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic anhydride) the Tg of the dry powder is 151 °C, while in the free acid form (i.e. when the polymer is dissolved in H2O) the Tg drops to 141 °C due to increased flexibility of the free acid structure.1 Regardless, films cast from poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid) solution are brittle and not suitable for transdermal delivery applications by themselves. Thus, a plasticizer must be employed in combination with poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid) in order to form a hydrogel system.

Choosing a Proper Plasticizer to Form a Patch Hydrogel Researchers at Queens University Belfast conducted a great deal of research over the last decade trying to find a suitable plasticizer (Continued on page 4)

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T h e J e w i s h M u s e u m • N e w Yo r k , N Y Regi str at ion closes Febr uary 27, 2015 (more informat ion on page 13 )

2015 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS

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CHAIR Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 Kim.Burch@elementis.com

CHAIR-ELECT Rey Ordiales (732) 878-7798 Rey_Ordiales@colpal.com

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SPECIAL EVENTS Phil Klepak (973) 265-2869 pklepak@summitresearchlabs.com

COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

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Unemployed and Emeritus members may continue to attend monthly meetings free of charge. Please contact the registration booth upon arrival. Unemployed members may also continue their membership free of charge by submitting the renewal form with unemployment details. Please remember that the SCC Employment Service is here to assist you. Contact: Jason O’Neill • E-Mail: Jason.Oneil@kemin.com

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Personal Care Products Council 2015 Annual Meeting The Breakers • Palm Beach, FL

February 22-25, 2015 More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

very day, millions of consumers around the world rely on personal care products to live better, healthier lives. From moisturizers, lipsticks, and fragrances to sunscreens, soaps, and anti-cavity toothpastes, these products are essential to today’s consumer lifestyles. The personal care products industry is a global industry with more than $250 billion in annual retail sales. The Personal Care Products Council (formerly the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association) is the leading national trade association for the cosmetic and personal care products industry and represents the most innovative names in beauty today. For more than 600 member companies, we are the voice on scientific, legal, regulatory, legislative, and international issues for the personal care product industry. We are a leading and trusted source of information for and about the industry and a vocal advocate for consumer safety and continued access to new, innovative products.

Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.

2015 NYSCC Practical Rheology Course Princeton University • Princeton, NJ

March 19-20, 2015 Instructor: Dr. Hemi Naé, Ph.D.

he NYSCC is returning to Princeton University for another event covering the science of rheology. This year we are happy to announce that we contracted with Dr. Hemi Naé of Hydan Technologies to bring us his acclaimed two-day Practical Rheology Course. The course will be taught on March 19th and 20th at the Friend Center on the Princeton University campus. This special in-depth course is for everyone working in technical marketing, research, development, processing, and quality control and tailored to the needs of the personal care industry. Joining Hemi will be instrument vendors to explain and demo their rheometers. The NY Chapter is proud to host this course at significantly reduced rates of $175 for SCC members and $250 for non-members. Emeritus members and students may attend for only $50. Registration also includes lunch plus food and beverage for morning and afternoon intermissions. Course materials will be distributed to every registrant. Registration on nyscc.org commenced in mid-January. Costs for late registration (after March 5, 2015) will be about 50% higher. The course will be limited to 150 attendees. So, if you are truly interested, we suggest you avoid being disappointed and the applied late fees by registering early.

For registration information, please visit www.nyscc.org. V O L U M E

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for poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid). Initial research investigated the use of glycerol as a plasticizing agent. Unfortunately, supporting evidence suggested that glycerol was cross-linking with poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid).2 In certain cases, cross-linking could produce adverse effects such as decreasing the degree of flexibility of the polymer and reducing its capacity to make intimate contact with the skin surface. Furthermore, in many cases uncontrolled cross-linking could affect the bioadhesive properties of the resin. In any event, attempts to use glycerol as a plasticizer were abandoned due to its high reactivity with the polymer. Other strategies to find a suitable plasticizing agent focused on the use of tripropylene glycol methyl ether, an innocuous compound that only contains one hydroxyl group and no carboxylic acid moieties. Therefore, one would not expect any cross-linking to occur with poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid). There was much promise in the use of tripropylene glycol methyl ether as a plasticizing agent in bioadhesive patch formulations containing poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid). Unfortunately, it is not commercially available in pharmaceutical grade, and therefore, is not suitable for use in transdermal delivery applications. This is unfortunate as the Belfast researchers even completed clinical trials demonstrating the efficacy of this patch formulation.3-5 Further attempts to plasticize poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid) focused on combining it with poly(ethylene glycol) to obtain bioadhesive films with desirable physicochemical properties.6-11 In initial studies, researchers investigated the influence of poly(ethylene glycol) molecular weight (200, 1,000, and 10,000 Da) on the properties of the films. The structural integrity of the films was determined by mechanical analysis (e.g., tensile strength, elongation at break, Young’s modulus, and the work of failure) and the degree of plasticization was monitored by measuring the glass transition temperature with dynamic scanning calorimetry.6 Not surprising, tensile strength, Young’s modulus, and work of failure decrease when higher concentrations of poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid) or poly(ethylene glycol) are used in the formula and also when lower molecular weight (200 Da) poly(ethylene glycol) is employed. On the other hand, the elongation at break increases at higher concentrations of poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid) or poly(ethylene glycol), and at lower molecular weights of poly(ethylene glycol). Furthermore, based on Tg data from differential scanning calorimetry, a molecular weight of 200 Da was found to be the most efficient plasticizer of the blended system, as compared to 1,000 and 10,000 Da. Also, increasing the concentration of poly(ethylene glycol) results in a greater degree of plasticity of the films. Clearly, polyols such as poly(ethylene glycol) are hydrophilic and cause ambient H2O to diffuse into the polymer structure. It is also very likely that poly(ethylene glycol) disrupts stabilizing hydrogen bonds found in poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid) (see Figure 1). In any event, plasticization and the increase in flexibility of poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid) occurs due to the interpolation of poly(ethylene glycol) and H2O into the polymer structure and the resulting disruption of intermolecular forces. More than likely, lower molecular poly(ethylene glycol) provides a more plasticized system due to its greater mobility than higher molecular weight variants lending to its ability to diffuse more into the polymer structure. Such an effect can be explained by the small molecular volume of the lower molecular weight species accompanied by a greater number of hydroxyl groups per unit mass.6 In addition, increases in the flexibility of Figure 1. (A) Hydrogen bonding of poly(methylvinyl poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid) at increasing ether-maleic acid) with itself. (B) Hydrogren bonding between poly(methylvinyl ether-maleic acid) and concentrations may be explained as a selfpoly(ethylene glycol). plasticizing effect, which is commonly observed in polymers. After much work in investigating the properties of blends of poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid) and poly(ethylene glycol), considerable evidence (thermal analysis, attenuated total reflectance-FTIR, swelling

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studies, and scanning electron microscopy) surfaced demonstrating that these polymers cross-link under the employed mixing conditions, which were carried at slightly elevated temperatures, ultimately forming a hydrogel system.7 For illustration, Figure 2 contains an SEM micrograph of a hydrogel containing a 2:1 ratio poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid) to poly(ethylene glycol). The porous nature of the hydrogel is clearly evident in the image. The same molecular weight samples of poly(ethylene glycol) already described were further investigated to determine the crosslink density imparted to the finished hydrogel. The lowest molecular weight poly(ethylene glycol) (200 Da) yielded the most highly cross-linked hydrogel network. Again, such a result is not surprising, as lower molecular weight compounds will have greater access to the interior structure of poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid), or any polymer for that matter. In any event, a crosslinked hydrogel system works extremely well for transdermal delivery applications. Hydrogels are insoluble and can absorb significant amounts of H2O without dissolving. At the same time they serve as good vehicle for pharmaceutical active ingredients and can precisely control its diffusion or permeation into the desired tissue. The diffusion coefficient of the drug depends Figure 2. SEM micrograph of a hydrogel containing a 2:1 ratio poly on number of factors including hydrogel (methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid) to poly(ethylene glycol). Originally structure and pore size, water content, published in T.R.R. Singh et al., Investigation of solute permeation across hydrogels composed of poly(methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic molecular weight of the polymer, and degree 12 It also depends on the acid) and poly(ethylene glycol), Eur Polym J 2009, 45, 1239-1249. of ionization. Reprinted with permission from the Royal Pharmaceutical Society dimensions of the pharmaceutical active. In of Great Britain, copyright 2010. some instances, one may wish to deliver a larger molecule, such as peptides or proteins. If the inherent pore size of the hydrogel is too small, this will influence the diffusion rate of the pharmaceutical active to be delivered. The pore size of the hydrogel can be increased by adding a pore-forming agent. In fact, Donnelly and coworkers used sodium bicarbonate in hydrogels made of poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid) and poly(ethylene glycol) to create large pores in the structure.10 Increasing the pore size results in higher equilibrium water content and average molecular weight between crosslinks. The overall expectation for this type of hydrogel modification is increased permeation of the solute into the skin. Other studies with similar hydrogel systems (without pore-forming agents) demonstrated increased permeability of the drug when the ionic conductivity of the hydrogel is increased by applying an external current.9

Microneedles The use of microneedles to painlessly bypass the stratum corneum is also a viable route for transdermal drug delivery.13-17 There are several methods of microneedle administration, which are summarized in Figure 3. A complete description of the various types of microneedle systems is provided in the figure caption. Briefly, these consist of: (a) a solid microneedle system that punctures the skin and is followed by treatment with a traditional transdermal patch, (b) a solid microneedle system coated with the drug, which upon penetration the drug dissolves; (c) a soluble microneedle system containing the drug in which both the drug and the microneedles dissolve upon introduction into the skin; and (d) a hollow microneedle system in which the drug is discharged and the microneedles are withdrawn. Historically, microneedles were constructed of silicon type materials, which could cause issues due to lack of biocompatibility. A modern approach to this problem is to fabricate microneedles with hydrogels.18 Blends of poly(methylvinylether-maleic acid) (Mw=1,080,000 Da) and poly(ethylene glycol) (Mw=200; 1,000; and 10,000 Da) have been used at concentrations of 15% (w/w) and 7.5% (w/w), respectively, together and then crosslinked to form a suitable hydrogel.19 The suitability of a hydrogel system for a particular application depends on its swelling and diffusional properties, which in turn is primarily dependent on its cross-linking density.10

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Figure 3. Various methods of microneedle application to skin during transdermal drug delivery. (a) Solid microneedles are used to puncture the skin, which is followed by a second step in which a traditional transdermal patch is used. (b) Solid microneedles coated with the drug. The microneedles are removed after the drug dissolves in the skin’s interstitial fluid. (c) Microneedles fabricated with a soluble polymer/carbohydrate carrying the drug is applied to the skin until the drug and microneedles dissolve in the skin. (d) Hollow microneedles containing the drug inside puncture the skin and then discharge the drug. (e-h) A delivery system based on a backing layer, drug loaded adhesive patch, and hydrogel microneedle system. (f) The hydrogel microneedle-adhesive patch system is in contact with the skin. (g) Water diffuses from the skin into hydrogel microneedles, causing them to swell, and then further into the adhesive patch. (h) As a result, drug molecules are liberated from the patch and migrate through the hydrogel and into the skin. Originally published in R. Donnelly et al., Hydrogel-forming microneedle arrays for enhanced transdermal drug delivery. Adv Funct Mater 2012, 22, 4879-4890. Reprinted with permission from WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, copyright 2012.

Nanoparticle Technology Over the last two decades, there have been tremendous efforts made to develop polymeric nanoparticles as controlled release agents for pharmaceutical actives. They offer a variety of benefits as delivery agents including high loading efficiency of the drug, ability to target specific organs or tumors, and delivery of proteins, DNA, and other biomolecules to key tissue sites.20 Polymeric nanoparticles are generally 10 – 1000 nm in diameter and delivered via the oral administration route.21 In recent years there has been increasing interest in developing polymeric nanoparticles as transdermal delivery agents for both pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.22 With respect to maleic anhydride chemistry, there has been considerable interest in fabricating polymeric nanoparticles for the oral delivery route.23-26 The general principle behind controlled release when drugs are orally administered is that the polymeric nanoparticles bind to key surfaces in the gastrointestinal tract (e.g., the interior of the stomach or intestinal region) providing the pharmaceutical active with a desired pharmacokinetic release profile over an extended period of time. Since maleic anhydride chemistry is very biocompatible with skin it is not surprising that efforts have also been made to utilize maleic anhydride-based nanoparticles as transdermal delivery agents.27,28 Cyanoacrylates are a family of adhesive molecules that are used for various applications. The most commonly known products that contain Figure 4. Molecular structure cyanoacrylates are Krazy Glue and Super Glue, two household adhesives with incredible strength. Interestingly, copolymers of polyethylene glycol- for poly{[α-maleic anhydride-ωmethoxy-poly(ethylene glycol)]modified maleic anhydride and ethyl cyanoacrylate have been used in the co-(ethyl cyanoacrylate)} used to fabricate polymeric fabrication of polymeric nanoparticles designed for transdermal drug nanoparticles. delivery.27 Figure 4 contains the structure for poly{[α-maleic anhydride-ω6

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methoxy-poly(ethylene glycol)]-co-(ethyl cyanoacrylate)}.29,30 As already mentioned, the key to any successful controlled release agent is that it releases the drug at a controlled rate. Normally, permeation studies of drugs through skin are carried out with a Franz Diffusion chamber (Figure 5). Ex vivo animal skin (e.g., porcine or rat skin) is placed in the upper portion of the diffusion cell and the formula or delivery vehicle is placed on top of the skin. As the pharmaceutical or cosmetic active penetrates through skin it arrives to the other side (dermis side) and is dissolved in the receptor solution. Then, the amount of drug that has traversed the skin barrier is determined by taking UV/visible spectra (assuming the drug absorbs UV or visible light) at selected time intervals. Figure 6 provides a plot of the Figure 6. Franz diffusion cell apparatus used for determining the cumulative amount of the pharmaceutical permeation of ingredients through ex vivo skin. Originally published in K.W. Kim et al., Tetrahertz dynamic imaging of skin drug absorption. agent, D,L-tetrahydropalmatine, that has Opt Express 2012, 20, 9478-9484. Reprinted with permission from the crossed the skin barrier after treatment Optical Society of America, copyright (2012). with nanoparticles based on poly{[αmaleic anhydride-ω-methoxy-poly(ethylene glycol)]-co-(ethyl cyanoacrylate)}. It is nearly a linear release of the drug, which is the desired effect. Another instructive example is the incorporation of Dead Sea minerals in nanoparticles made of poly(maleic anhydride-alt-butyl vinyl ether) in which 5% of the maleic anhydride portion is grafted with poly(ethylene glycol) (MW=2,000) and 95% grafted with 2-methoxyethanol.28,31 Dead Sea minerals are commonly used for the treatment of skin ailments such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. Such nanoparticles are made using a mini-emulsion/solvent evaporation process.

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Figure 6. Typical data obtained from the Franz diffusion cell apparatus to determine the permeation of ingredients through ex vivo skin. In this particular case, skin was treated with poly {[α-maleic anhydride-ω-methoxy-poly(ethylene glycol)]-co-(ethyl cyanoacrylate)} nanoparticles containing the pharmaceutical agent, D,L-tetrahydropalmatine. Originally published in J. Xing, L. Deng, J. Li, and A. Dong, Amphiphilic poly {[α-maleic anhydride-ω-methoxy-poly(ethylene glycol)]-co-(ethyl cyanoacrylate)} graft copolymer nanoparticles as carriers for transdermal drug delivery. Int J Nanomed 2009, 4, 227-232. Reprinted with permission from Dovepress, copyright 2009.

Concluding Remarks Transdermal drug delivery is an important mode of treatment in the practice of medicine. It is a growing field with much potential as an alternative to oral delivery and hypodermic injections. Patch systems continue to play an important role in the delivery of pharmaceutical actives to targeted sites of action. Some recent advances in this field consist of the use of microneedles and nanoparticles to traverse the stratum corneum barrier. Polymers based on maleic anhydride chemistry have played a major role in these developments. In the traditional transdermal patch system, poly(methyl vinyl ether–maleic acid) acts as the chief constituent of the hydrogel that houses the pharmaceutical active. Further advances are based on the use of microneedles, which are fabricated with poly(methyl vinyl ether–maleic acid) hydrogels. Finally, nanoparticles made with copolymers of polyethylene glycol-modified maleic anhydride and ethyl cyanoacrylate offer an innovative approach to delivery of active ingredients to skin.

References 1. K. Chung, C. Wu, and E. Malawer, Glass transition temperatures of poly(methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic anhydride) (Continued on page 8)

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(PMVEMA) and poly(methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic acid) (PMVEMAC) and the kinetics of dehydration of PMVEMAC by thermal analysis. J Appl Polym Sci 1990, 41, 793-803. 2. P. McCarron, A. Woolfson, R. Donnelly, G. Andrews, A. Zawislak, and J. Price, Influence of plasticizer type and storage conditions on properties of poly(methyl vinyl-co-maleic anhydride) bioadhesive films. J Appl Polym Sci 2003, 91, 1576-1589. 3. A. Zawislak, P. McCarron, W. McCluggage, J. Price, R. Donnelly, H. McClelland, S. Dobbs, and A. Woolfson, Successful photodynamic therapy of vulval Paget's disease using a novel patch-based delivery system containing 5aminolevulinic acid. BJOG 2004, 111, 1143-1145. 4. P. McCarron, R. Donnelly, A. Zawislak, A. Woolfson, J. Price, and H. McClelland, Evaluation of a water-soluble bioadhesive patch for photodynamic therapy of vulval lesions. Int J Pharm 2005, 293, 11-23. 5. R. Donnelly, L.-W. Ma, P. Juzenas, V. Iani, and P. McCarron, Topical bioadhesive patch systems enhance selectivity of protoporphyrin IX accumulation. Photochem Photobiol 2006, 82, 670-675. 6. T. Singh, P. McCarron, A. Woolfson, and R. Donnelly, Physicochemical characterization of poly(ethylene glycol) plasticized poly(methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic acid) films. J Appl Polym Sci 2009, 112, 2792-2799. 7. T. Singh, P. McCarron, A. Woolfson, and R. Donnelly, Investigation of swelling and network parameters of poly(ethylene glycol)-crosslinked poly(methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic acid) hydrogels. Eur Polym J 2009, 45, 1239-1249. 8. T. Singh, A. Woolfson, and R. Donnelly, Investigation of solute permeation across hydrogels composed of poly(methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic acid) and poly(ethylene glycol). J Pharm Pharmacol 2009, 62, 829-837. 9. M. Garland, T. Singh, A. Woolfson, and R. Donnelly, Electrically enhanced solute permeation across poly(ethylene glycol)-crosslinked poly(methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic acid) hydrogels: effect of hydrogel cross-link density and ionic conductivity. Int J Pharm 2011, 406, 91-98. 10. T. Singh, M. Garland, K. Migalska, E. Salvador, R. Shaikh, H. McCarthy, A. Woolfson, and R. Donnelly, Influence of a pore-forming agent on swelling, network parameters, and permeability of poly(ethylene glycol)-crosslinked poly(methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic acid) hydrogels: application in transdermal delivery systems. J Appl Polym Sci 2012, 125, 2680-2694. 11. B. Luppi, T. Cerchiara, F. Bigucci, A. Di Pietra, I. Orienti, and V. Zecchi, Crosslinked poly(methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic anhydride) as topical vehicles for hydrophilic and lipophilic drugs. Drug Deliv 2003, 10, 239-244. 12. T. Singh, M. Garland, K. Migalska, E. Salvador, S. Shaikh, H. McCarthy, A. Woolfson, and R. Donnelly, Influence of a pore-forming agent on swelling, network parameters, and permeability of poly(ethylene glycol)-crosslinked poly(methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic acid) hydrogels: application in transdermal delivery systems. J Appl Polym Sci 2012, 125, 2680-2694. 13. R. Boehm, P. Miller, R. Singh, A. Shah, S. Stafslien, J. Daniels, and R. Narayan, Indirect rapid prototyping of antibacterial acid anhydride copolymer microneedles. Biofabrication 2012, 4(1): 011002. doi: 10.1088/17585082/4/1/011002. Epub 2012 Jan 30. 14. Y. Gomaa, L. El-Khordagui, M. Garland, R. Donnelly, F. McInnes, and V. Meidan, Effect of microneedle treatment on the skin permeation of a nanoencapsulated dye. J Pharm Pharmacol 2012, 64(11): 1592-602. doi: 10.1111/ j.2042-7158.2012.01557.x. Epub 2012 Jul 9. 15. Y. Gomaa, M. Garland, F. McInnes, L. El-Khordagui, C. Wilson, and R. Donnelly, Laser-engineered dissolving microneedles for active transdermal delivery of nadroparin calcium. Eur J Pharm Biopharm 2012, 82(2): 299-307. doi: 10.1016/j.ejpb.2012.07.008. Epub 2012 Jul 23. 16. R. Donnelly, M. Garland, D. Morrow, K. Migalska, T. Singh, R. Majithiya, and A. Woolfson, Optical coherence tomography is a valuable tool in the study of the effects of microneedle geometry on skin penetration characteristics and in-skin dissolution. J Control Release 2010, 147(3): 333-41. doi: 10.1016/j.jconrel.2010.08.008. Epub 2010 Aug 18. 17. K. Migalska, D. Morrow, M. Garland, R. Thakur, A. Woolfson, and R. Donnelly, Laser-engineered dissolving microneedle arrays for transdermal macromolecular drug delivery. Pharm Res 2011, 28(8): 1919-30. doi: 10.1007/s11095-011-0419-4. Epub 2011 Mar 25. 18. R. Donnelly, K. Mooney, M. McCrudden, E. Vicente-Pérez, L. Belaid, P. González-Vázquez, J. McElnay, and A. Woolfson, Hydrogel-forming microneedles increase in volume during swelling in skin, but skin barrier function recovery is unaffected. J Pharm Sci 2014, 103, 1478-1486. 19. R. Donnelly, T. Singh, M. Garland, K. Migalska, R. Majithiya, C. McCrudden, P. Kole, T. Mahmood, H. McCarthy, and A. Woolfson, Hydrogel-forming microneedle arrays for enhanced transdermal drug delivery. Adv Funct Mater 2012, 22, 4879-4890. 20. K. Shroff, and A. Vidyasagar, Polymer nanoparticles: newer strategies towards targeted cancer therapy. J Phys Chem Biophys 2013, 3:125. doi: 10.4172/2161-0398.1000125. 21. K. Soppimath, T. Aminabhavi, A. Kulkarni, and W. Rudzinski, Biodegradable polymeric nanoparticles as drug delivery devices. J Control Release 2001, 70, 1-20. 22. S. Guterres, M. Alves, and A. Pohlmann, Polymeric nanoparticles, nanospheres and nanocapsules, for cutaneous

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applications. Drug Target Insights 2007, 2, 147-157. 23. P. Arbós, M. Arangoa, M. Campanero, and J. Irache, Quantification of the bioadhesive properties of protein-coated PVM/MA nanoparticles. Int J Pharm 2002, 242, 129-136. 24. EP 1 369 110 A1. P. Arbós Vila, and M. Merodio de la Quintana, Production of nanoparticles from methyl vinyl ether copolymer and maleic anhydride for the administration of hydrophilic pharmaceuticals, more particularly of puric and pyrimidinic bases. 2002. 25. EP 2,510,930 A1. H. Salman, and I. Goñi Azcarate, Nanoparticles comprising half esters of poly(methyl vinyl etherco-maleic anhydride) and uses thereof. 2012. 26. US 2007/0,224,225 A1. J. Irache Garreta, C. Gamazo de la Rasilla, M. Sanz Larruga, M. Ferrer Puga, B. San Roman Aberasturi, H. Salman, S. Gomez Martinez, and J. Ochoa Reparaz, Immune response stimulating composition comprising nanoparticles based on a methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid copolymer. 2007. 27. J. Xing, L. Deng, J. Li, and A. Dong, Amphiphilic poly {[α-maleic anhydride-ω-methoxy-poly(ethylene glycol)]-co(ethyl cyanoacrylate)} graft copolymer nanoparticles as carriers for transdermal drug delivery. Int J Nanomed 2009, 4, 227-232. 28. A. Dessy, S. Kubowicz, M. Alderighi, C. Bartoli, A. Piras, R. Schmid, and F. Chiellini, Dead Sea minerals loaded polymeric nanoparticles. Colloid Surf B: Biointerfaces 2011, 87, 236-242. 29. L. Deng, C. Yao, A. Li, and A. Dong, Preparation and characterization of poly {[α-maleic anhydride-ω-methoxypoly(ethylene glycol)]-co-(ethyl cyanoacrylate)} copolymer nanoparticles. Polymer Int 2005, 54, 1007-1013. 30. Y. Zhai, Y. Qiao, C. Xie, L. Lin, Y. Ma, A. Dong, and L. Deng, Preparation and in vitro release of D,L-tetrahydropalmatineloaded graft copolymer nanoparticles. J Appl Polym Sci 2008, 110, 3525-3531. 31. F. Chiellini, A. Piras, M. Gazzarri, C. Bartoli, M. Ferri, L. Paolini, and E. Chiellini, Bioactive polymeric materials for targeted administration of active agents: synthesis and evaluation. Macromolec Biosci 2011, 8, 516-525.

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About the Author

Nature’s Science.

oger is a Principal Scientist in the Materials Science Department at Ashland Specialty Ingredients. He received a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and completed a Ph.D. in Biophysical Chemistry at Seton Hall University. Roger has over 18 years of experience in the Personal Care industry, having worked in many facets of product development and claims substantiation leading to the commercial launch of new technologies. His work and professional activities reflect his dedication and service to the personal care industry with specialties in imaging and optical techniques used in conjunction with image analysis to quantify various properties of hair and skin, spectrofluorescence of hair and skin, mechanical measurements of personal care substrates, and various aspects related to the use of antioxidants and other active ingredients in skin care. Roger actively speaks at international conferences and is the primary author of over 25 peer-reviewed book chapters and journal articles. He is also the author of the book, Antioxidants and the Skin, published in 2013. For the past eight years, Roger has been the editor of the monthly periodical, Cosmetiscope, of the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. He is also an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University, where he teaches Biochemistry to students in the Cosmetic Science Master's program. Prior to pursuing a career in science, Roger served in the U.S. Navy onboard the vessel, USS YORKTOWN (CG 48).

Our Technology. Your Beauty.

www.ajiaminobeauty.com ww w ww w.aj ajji aji

Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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Upcoming 2015 NYSCC Events Calendar Processing Services for dry powders Fine & Ultra Fine Milling Technologies for Bases, Face Powders, and Pigments. FDA Registered. The Jet Pulverizer Co. ®

800.670-9695 www.jetpulverizer.com info@jetpul.com

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org March 13

Museum Event, The Jewish Museum, New York, NY

March 19-20

Rheology Class, Princeton University, Princeton, NJ

April 7

NYSCC Monthly Meeting, Fragrance Chemistry, The Bethwood, Totowa, NJ

May 11

India Seminar, Renaissance Hotel, Iselin, NJ

May 12-13 June 10 August TBD September 18 September TBD September 29 October 24 November 11-12 November TBD December 10

Suppliers’ Day, Edison, NJ NYSCC Monthly Meeting, Green Chemistry, Aqua Azul Yacht, Weehawken, NJ NYSCC Golf Outing, Location TBD Culinary Event, Midtown Loft, New York, NY NYSCC Workshop, Location TBD Safety and Regulatory Workshop, Location TBD NYSCC 60th Anniversary Party, Glennpoint Marriot, Teaneck NJ NYSCC Color Cosmetics Symposium, Location TBD NYSCC Board Transition Meeting NYSCC Social Media Holiday Party, New York, NY

Upcoming 2015 Industry Events _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Personal Care Products Council 2015 Annual Meeting

• February 22-25 Palm Beach, FL • More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 2015

• March 20-23 Bologna, Italy • More info: www.cosmoprof.com _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Face & Body Midwest Spa Conference and Expo 2015

• March 21-23 Chicago, IL • More info: www.faceandbody.com/midwest _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

In-Cosmetics 2015

• April 14-16 Barcelona, Spain • More ________________________________info: ______www.in-cosmetics.com _________________________________________________________________________________

HBA Global

• June 9-11 New York, NY ___________________• ___More _______info: ______www.hbaexpo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________

In-Cosmetics Korea 2015

• June 15-16 Seoul, South Korea • More info: _________________________________________www.in-cosmeticsasia.com/in-cosmetics-Korea ______________________________________________________________________________

C&T Summit

• June 22-23 University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, PA More info: http://summit.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/register/

F E B R U A R Y

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Rhodia is now Solvay Still offering exceptional products & service New Products Miracare® GBC The clear choice for tear-free, Ethoxylate-free baby cleansing

Gran Via Barcelona

Rheomer® 33T Higher clarity suspending polymer

April 14-16, 2015

Contact: 888-776-7337 NovecareCC@Solvay.com

More info: www.in-cosmetics.com.

89th ACS Colloid & Surface Science Symposium Carnegie Mellon University • Pittsburgh, PA

June 15-17, 2015 For more info: http: www.colloids2015.org.

University of Pennsylvania Philadelphia, PA

June 22-23, 2015 More info: http://summit.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com

GORDON RESEARCH CONFERENCE

Barrier Function of Mammalian Skin Defining, Investigating and Surmounting the Barrier

August 16-21, 2015 Waterville Valley Resort Waterville Valley, New Hampshire More info: www.grc.org V O L U M E

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BOTANICAL EMOLLIENTS & SPECIALTY PARTICLES

24/7 Online Ingredient Information:

www.floratech.com

Label The Natural Solution ®

In the New York SCC Region:

DWI Leibniz-Institut für Interaktive Materialien HairS’15 19th International Hair Science Syposium • Trier, Germany

September 2-4, 2015

Essential Ingredients Michael Manning 201.576.9382 mmanning@essentialingredients.com

Call for Papers – End of DECEMBER 2014 Abstract Submission Proposals for oral/poster presentation (1 page max.) should be sent to hairs15@dwi.rwth-aachen.de by March 27, 2015.

Symposium Fee Early bird fees for registration and payment by August 1, 2015 are: • 770€ for participants • 590€ for DWI member companies • 330€ for speakers (one presenting author per oral presentation, no reduction for poster authors)

The Soul & Science of Beauty. www.evonik.com/personal-care

Fee includes meals, coffee breaks, excursion, conference dinner, book of abstracts, and conference proceedings.

For more info: www.dwi.rwth-aachen.de.

Inspire

Imagine

Innovate

The US Society of Cosmetic Chemists hosts the 29th IFSCC Congress O

RONTIERS

OND DREAM

October 23-26, 2016 Lake Buena Vista, Florida

BEY

Walt Disney World Dolphin Resort

29TH CONGRESS

O R L A N D O, F L 2 016 INS PIRE IMAGINE INNOVATE

Beyond Dreams into New Frontiers: Inspire, Imagine, Innovate 12

F E B R U A R Y

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Helena Rubinstein: Beauty Is Power Friday, March 13, 2015

The Jewish Museum

elena Rubinstein was a legendary cosmetics entrepreneur whose ideas challenged and changed the myth of feminine beauty. This exhibit is devoted to her life and art collection, and presents a strong female perspective on 20th century visual culture. She introduced new and different standards of beauty, and exhorted women to control their own image though makeup and grooming. Today, the term “beauty salon” is limited to a hair dresser or day spa. However, Rubinstein’s salon was designed as a place where women could learn not only how to improve their looks, but also how to reconceive their standards of taste, and to understand design, color, and art to express their own personalities.

Location: The Jewish Museum, 1109 5th Ave. (at 92nd Street), NY, NY Time: Guided tours at 1:00 pm and 2:00 pm. Each group limited to 20 persons. Cost/Registration: • NYSCC Pre-registered Member $85.00 • Pre-registered Non Member $105.00 • Emeritus / Students Pre-registered $40.00 • Emeritus at the door $75.00 • At The Door $120.00 Register online by visiting the NYSCC website at www.nyscc.org. • Limited to the first 40 people. • Price includes: Guided Tours of “Beauty is Power.” • General Admission to the museum. • Discount coupons for the museum store. • Bus Transportation from New Jersey. • Validated parking for cars parked at private garage. • Late lunch or early dinner.

Registration closes February 27th. For more information: https://nyscc.org/event-calendar/

Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: https://nyscc.org/employment/employment-listings/

n Senior Scientist – Cleansing Platform Johnson & Johnson, Skillman, NJ n Product Development Associate StriVectin, New York, NY

n Senior Applications Specialist – Personal Care Inolex, Inc., Philadelphia, PA

n Marketing Associate TRI-K Industries, Denville, NJ

n Cosmetic Chemist Verla International, Ltd., New Windsor, NY

Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu V O L U M E

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