Exploring Extremophiles: A Novel and Sustainable Path for Innovation in the Cosmetic Industry
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…Michelle Han and Giorgio Dell’Acqua
he cosmetic industry is dynamic and ever-changing; driven by the desire to advance product efficacy through innovative and sustainable practices. Sustainability is of growing significance among consumers, and brands have started to introduce products to the market that contain ingredients with a sustainable fingerprint.1 Extremophiles are interesting organisms that can be grown sustainably to produce innovative biomolecules that may be used in cosmetic formulations.2 This article will explore extremophiles and their unique characteristics, adaptations, and protective mechanisms that allow for their novel and transformative application in the cosmetic industry.
n Introduction
Extremophiles are organisms that thrive in harsh environments that are otherwise uninhabitable to others.3 The classification of extremophile depends on the type of extreme condition in which it resides. Extremophilic organisms are present in environments of extreme temperature, salinity, pH, pressure, and radiation.3,4 Thermophiles are organisms that survive very high temperatures (60 – 80 °C).3 Psychrophiles are organisms that survive very cold temperatures (−20 °C – 10 °C).3 Halophiles survive in habitats of high salinity (0.85–3.4M NaCl).3 Acidophiles are organisms that survive extreme acidic conditions (< pH 5) and alkaliphiles are organisms that survive extreme basic conditions (> pH 9).3,4 Piezophiles are organisms that thrive in environments of high hydrostatic pressure (40–110 MPa).3,4 Radiophiles are organisms that can withstand extreme amounts of radiation.4 Lastly, polyextremophiles refer to extremophilic organisms that survive in more than one type of extreme parameter.2 Extremophilic organisms have a variety of mechanisms to endure their harsh environments. They undergo unique biological adaptations that enable them to remain stable in extreme conditions and produce specialized biomolecules in the form of enzymes and proteins that allow their metabolic processes to proceed despite the challenges posed by their environments.4 These biomolecules may serve roles such as protecting cellular structures, facilitating metabolic reactions, and enhancing the extremophile’s overall resilience to environmental challenges.2,5,6 Thermophiles survive elevated temperatures due to heat stabilized enzymes, or thermozymes, which allow for elevated catabolic activity at high temperatures.2,6 Psychrophiles have cold-activated enzymes, or psychrophilic enzymes, which allow for high catabolic activity at low temperatures.2,6 Halophiles survive in high-salinity environments through adaptations that prevent protein aggregation and dehydration, which occur due to reduced water availability for internal proteins.5 Acidophiles and alkaliphiles have adaptations that help maintain intracellular pH homeostasis as they require a cellular pH near neutral to conduct essential cellular functions.5 Piezophiles withstand high-pressure environments through the production of compatible solutes, polyunsaturated fatty acids, and antioxidant proteins that help maintain cellular integrity and protect against stress imposed by high pressure environments.4 (continued on Page 5) Radiophiles thrive in environments of high oxidative stress and radiation due to their extensive ability to repair
T H E N E X T G E N E R AT I O N O F H A I R C A R E • F E B R U A R Y 2 9 ...see page 10-12 for more information.
2024 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Amber Evans chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect John Carola chair-elect@nyscc.org Treasurer Alex Blakeman treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Diane Dabkowski treasurer-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Mythili Nori secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Stacey House advisor@nyscc.org Program Alexis Piterski program@nyscc.org At Home Live Series Susanna Fernandes Susanna.Fernandes@tri-k.com By-Laws and Membership Cathy Piterski cpiterski@essentialingredients.com
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Letter from the Chair
…Amber Evans
n a blink of an eye, it is February, and what an outstanding start to 2024! The NYSCC enjoyed a great day out on the slopes with so many members at our Annual Ski Trip to Belleayre Mountain last month. Our recent joint webinar with IBA on “MoCRA: Tips for Compliance and Preparation,” shattered all our webinar records with more than 600 participants and the most questions submitted from the audience. This subject is clearly top of mind for our industry, and the NYSCC will continue to provide current information to help the beauty and personal care community navigate this new regulation. There are some excellent educational programs on the horizon, starting with this month’s program, “The Next Generation of Hair Care,” that I am chairing on Thursday, February 29th at a stunning new venue. This program will spotlight a few areas that are at the forefront of innovation and relevance as we consider the future of hair care. In addition to the informative speakers, this program will feature sponsored posters and tabletops that express other perspectives on the next generation of hair care. Looking ahead, mark your calendars for the March 26th program on “Beauty from Within: Next Level Beauty Care and Wellness Strategies.” This event is a “must-attend”! Registration is now open for Suppliers’ Day, May 1-2, 2024, at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, where we will empower the industry to “Inspire.Innovate.Celebrate.” The exhibit floor is sold out, and we received our largest number of presentation submissions to date, ensuring that the conference program will be the best one yet. And no Suppliers’ Day is complete without the Awards Night Celebration on May 1st announcing the finalists of the CEW Beauty Awards Category for Supplier’s: Ingredients and Formulation. Submissions for this prestigious award are being accepted now at www.cew.org. Make plans to attend beauty’s biggest event and night out at www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day. I was honored to talk to CosmeticsDesign and HAPPI about the Chapter’s plans this year and Suppliers’ Day, as well as provide some insight on industry trends, challenges, and more. You can read the full articles in the links below: • www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2024/01/25/nyscc-chair-discussestrends-industry-challenges-and-more-in-2024 • www.happi.com/contents/view_online-exclusives/2023-12-13/ an-exciting-year-planned-for-the-nyscc/
The NYSCC is off to an amazing start in 2024. Connecting with you and experiencing all that the Chapter and industry has to offer are highlights that I sincerely look forward to over the course of the year.
Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org House Chair Afam Okoro house@nyscc.org Special Events Johanna Gigliotti johanna.e.gigliotti@gmail.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com
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Early Bird Registration Now Open for the Beauty Event of the Year!
egister now for the biggest ingredients and formulation beauty and personal care event in North America and save with early bird registration that is in effect until April 15, 2024. Don’t miss the more than 100 hours of scientific and marketing educational programming exploring nutricosmetics, hair care, microbiome, fragrance, and the future of the cosmetic industry among other relevant and fresh topics. Be ready to be inspired by all the innovations on display from more than 550 global exhibitors and celebrate all that we create. Register now at www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day. SCC members receive an additional discount on educational programming in the classrooms. 2
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2024 NYSCC Events Calendar
• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org February 29
The Next Generation of Hair Care Il Villaggio, Carlstadt, NJ
March 26
Beauty from Within: Next Level Beauty Care and Wellness Strategies Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ
April 11
NYSCC Celebrates Earth Day Stella Marina Restaurant, Asbury Park, NJ
May 1-2
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY
May 1
NYSCC Awards Night: “The Future of Beauty” LAVAN Midtown, New York, NY
June 3
Sunscreen Formulations: Misconceptions and Future Directions for Innovation Charthouse, Weehawken, NJ
July 15
NYSCC Golf Outing Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg, NJ
August 10
NYSCC Fishing Trip and Seafood Boil Atlantic Highlands, NJ
September 10
Skin Care Inclusivity: Caring for Melanated Skin Location TBD
September 19
NYSCC Culinary Event Midtown Loft, New York, NY
October 15
Emerging Trends in Oral Health and Beauty Location TBD
November 1
Pet Care and Grooming Virtual Event
November 16
70th Anniversary Gala and NYSCC Supports Education Night The Plaza, New York, NY
November TBD
Hear from the CEW Supplier’s Award Judges on this Year’s Top Ingredients and Formulations Virtual Event
December 11-13
SCC Scientific Meeting & Showcase Los Angeles, CA
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Exploring Extremophiles
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radiation-induced DNA damage. Advancements in biotechnology have allowed for extremophiles to be studied in pure culture, introducing their bioproducts to the cosmetic industry as innovative and sustainable ingredients that improve product efficacy and formulation stability.4 2,4
n Manganese-Dependent Superoxide Dismutase (MnSOD) from n Radiophile Deinococcus radiodurans
The enzyme MnSOD from radiophile Deinococcus radiodurans is noted for its remarkable resistance to UV, ionizing radiation, DNA damage inducing agents, and oxidative stress.7 Its potential in the cosmetic industry has gained interest because unlike other sources of SODs, MnSOD from this bacterium can maintain its protective mechanisms even after being added to cosmetic formulations and exposed to UV and heat.7,8 A study conducted by Palmieri et al. expressed the MnSOD gene from Deinococcus radiodurans in Solanum lycopersicum (tomato) cells and the resulting MnSOD rich-tomato cell extract was resistant to high doses of UVB irradiation. Skin cells treated with the extract displayed higher vitality and decreased DNA fragmentation caused by hydrogen peroxide.8 Moreover, the recombinant plant extract retained the SOD activity even in the presence of cosmetic excipients, suggesting its suitable use as a novel ingredient for cosmetic formulations.8
n Carotenoids from Halophile Dunaliella salina
Extremophiles produce carotenoids that serve as precursors for vitamin A, growth regulators, and antioxidants.2 In the cosmetic industry, these carotenoids help minimize skin photodamage, functioning as natural antioxidants.2,9 Dunaliella salina, a halophile found in high saline environments such as salt lakes, is a noteworthy source of beta-carotene and finds application in skincare formulations in the cosmetic industry.9
n Exopolysaccharides from Psychrophile Pseudomonas sp. ID1 and n Halophile Alteromonas macleodii
Exopolysaccharides are polymers that are secreted by organisms to cope with their harsh environments.10 They are of interest to the cosmetic industry because of their unique properties that enhance product efficacy, improve formulation stability, and deliver skincare benefits.11 Exopolysaccharides from psychrophiles such as Pseudomonas sp. ID1, found in the South Shetland Islands in Antarctica, have properties similar to those of traditional gums used in the cosmetic industry.16 The microbial counterparts have potential to replace conventional plant and algal derived gums to serve as emulsifiers, stabilizers, gel agents, thickeners, and suspending agents in cosmetic formulations.11,16 Exopolysaccharides are also recognized for their skincare benefits, particularly for sensitive skin, having reparative, soothing, and rejuvenating activity. Fermentation of Alteromonas macleodii, a halophile found in deep-sea hydrothermal vents, produces exopolysaccharides to protect skin from UV damage, reduce skin irritation, and strengthen the skin barrier through a biomimetic mechanism.12
n Thermozymes from the Thermophile Geobacillus stearothermophilus
Thermozymes, extracted from thermophiles, including hydrolases such as amylases, lipases, and proteases, help enhance cosmetic industrial processes.13,14 Thermozymes from the thermophile Geobacillus stearothermophilus, found in hot springs of the Rupi region of Bulgaria, were found to accelerate fermentation (two to three times more than those with mesophilic organisms). It was also shown that they reduce the chance of microbial contamination in large scale fermentation, and function for extended periods of time.13 The use of thermozymes showcases the versatility of extremophiles in providing stable and efficient enzymatic solutions for the cosmetic industry.
n Scaling and Industrial Production
While extremophiles and their biomolecules offer promising benefits to the cosmetic industry, there must exist an optimization of scaling to allow a cost-effective production process to (continued on Page 6)
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Exploring Extremophiles
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obtain yields that can compete with existing products on the market. One way to achieve this is to understand the extremophiles’ biology in their natural habitats and analyze their genome. Once genes responsible for beneficial compounds are identified, they can be synthesized and inserted into host organisms, thus enabling controlled and scalable production of desired ingredients.11 Another solution is to leverage fermentation as a key method to cultivate extremophiles at scale with good control over their characteristics through the manipulation of the producer organism, feedstock, and process conditions.11,15 Fermentation yields a biomass rich in bioactive compounds that can be processed to extract ingredients for use in formulations.11
n Concluding Remarks
In summary, extremophiles offer a wealth of opportunities for the cosmetic industry, providing natural and effective biomimetic solutions to improve product efficacy and overcome formulation challenges. The unique enzymes and proteins derived from extremophiles contribute to the development of innovative, sustainable, and high-performing cosmetic formulations.
n References
1. Martins AM, Marto JM. A sustainable life cycle for cosmetics: from design and development to postuse phase. Sustain Chem Pharm. 35:101178, 2023 2. Kochhar N, Kavya IK, Shrivastava S, Ghosh A, Rawat VS, Sodhi KK, Kumar M. Perspectives on the microorganism of extreme environments and their applications. Curr Res Microb Sci. 3:100134, 2022 3. Thakur N, Singh SP, Zhang C. Microorganisms under extreme environments and their applications. Curr Res Microb Sci. 3:100141, 2022 4. Raddadi N, Cherif A, Daffonchio D, Neifar M, Fava F. Biotechnological applications of extremophiles, extremozymes, and extremolytes. Appl Microbiol Biotechnol. 99(19):7907-13, 2015 5. Coker JA. All about extremophiles. Fac Rev. 12:27, 2023 6. Rekadwad BN, Li WJ, Gonzalez JM, Punchappady DR, Ananthapadmanabha BA, Urana R, Parwez K. Extremophiles: the species that evolve and survive under hostile conditions. 3 Biotech. 13(9):316, 2023 7. Daly MJ, Gaidamakova EK, Matrosova VY, Vasilenko A, Zhai M, Leapman RD, Fredrickson JK. Protein oxidation implicated as the primary determinant of bacterial radioresistance. PLoS Biology, 5(4):92, 2007 8. Palmieri G, Arciello S, Bimonte M, Carola A, Tito A, Gogliettino M, Cocca E, Fusco C, Balestrieri M, Colucci MG, Apone F. The extraordinary resistance to UV radiations of a manganese superoxide dismutase of Deinococcus radiodurans offers promising potentialities in skin care applications. J Biotechnol. 302:101-111, 2019 9. Havas F, Krispin S, Cohen M, Loing E, Farge M, Suere T, Attia-Vigneau J. A Dunaliella salina extract counteracts skin aging under intense solar irradiation thanks to its antiglycation and antiinflammatory properties. Mar Drugs. 20(2):104, 2022
10. Nguyen PT, Nguyen TT, Bui DC, Hong PT, Hoang QK, Nguyen HT. Exopolysaccharide production by lactic acid bacteria: the manipulation of environmental stresses for industrial applications. AIMS Microbiol. 6(4):451-469, 2020 11. Nicolaus B, Kambourova M, Oner ET. Exopolysaccharides from extremophiles: from fundamentals to biotechnology. Environ Technol. 31(10):1145-58, 2010 12. Le Costaouëc T, Cérantola S, Ropartz D, Ratiskol J, Sinquin C, Colliec-Jouault S, Boisset C. Structural data on a bacterial exopolysaccharide produced by a deep-sea Alteromonas macleodii strain. Carbohydr Polym. 90(1):49-59, 2012 6
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13. Kambourova M. Thermostable enzymes and polysaccharides produced by thermophilic bacteria isolated from Bulgarian hot springs. Eng Life Sci. 18(11):758-767, 2018 14. Lee YJ, Ganbat D, Oh D, Kim H, Jeong GE, Cha IT, Kim SB, Nam G, Jung YJ, Lee SJ. Isolation and characterization of thermophilic bacteria from hot springs in Republic of Korea. Microorganisms. 10(12):2375, 2022 15. Takai K, Nakamura K. Archaeal diversity and community development in deep-sea hydrothermal vents. Curr Opin Microbiol. 13(3), 270–280, 2010 16. Poli A, Finore I, Romano I, Gioiello A, Lama L, Nicolaus B. Microbial diversity in extreme marine habitats and their biomolecules. Microorganisms. 5(2):25, 2017
About the Authors:
n Michelle Han
Michelle Han is currently the Associate Manager of Product Development at amika. She holds a B.S in Medical Science from Western University and has more than five years of experience in the cosmetic industry across the haircare, skincare, and color cosmetic sectors. Her passion for novel ingredients and innovative technology drives her impactful contributions to the field of cosmetic science.
n Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D.
Giorgio Dell’Acqua is the Chief Scientific Officer at Nutrafol. After obtaining his Ph.D. in Cell Biology in 1989, Giorgio worked for fifteen years as an investigator in applied medical research. Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last twenty years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. During his career, he directed R&D, science, and product development at multiple companies. He has helped to bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market, has authored more than 90 publications in medicine and cosmetic science, holds two patents, and has been a keynote speaker on clean beauty, natural ingredients, and sustainability. Giorgio is also on the Executive Board of the U.S. Society of Cosmetic Chemists.
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NYSCC Celebrates!
n the spirit of this year’s theme of “Inspire. Innovate. Celebrate.” we are excited to continue “NYSCC Celebrates!”, a Cosmetiscope section that celebrates the accomplishments of NYSCC members. The accomplishment could be something professional like a promotion or new degree, or something personal such as writing a book or winning/placing in a major competition. This serves as a platform for our talented and multifaceted NYSCC members to proudly shine. We celebrate the following members this month:
Lexi Milano (BASF) was promoted to Scientist II – Applications, Performance, and Claims.
Benjamin Blinder (Gattefossé) was recently promoted to Chief Operating Officer (COO) of Gattefossé USA.
If you would like to be featured in an upcoming “NYSCC Celebrates!”, please send your special accomplishment to roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu. We look forward to celebrating YOU!
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NYSCC History Project
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The Chapter Goes Global
...Steve Herman
or many years, Suppliers’ Day had no educational component. On one hand, it was well known that some other competitive meetings had extensive conference programs. On the other hand, many felt that technical sessions would reduce foot traffic for the exhibitors. For a few years, beginning in 2013, a compromise approach placed a conference the day before Suppliers’ Day, with a specific global focus. These were the programs: • 1st US-China Regulatory Symposium – May 14, 2013 • Cosmetics in Contemporary Brazil – May 12, 2014 • Discover India Symposium – May 11, 2015 In the Summer 2023 issue of Cosmetiscope, we discussed the historical relationship between the NYSCC and CACPA, which was cemented by the May 14, 2013, joint meeting focused on China. Now we will go to the second event, Cosmetics in Contemporary Brazil, held on May 12, 2014. The Co-chairs were Steve Herman and Marie Thadal. We had opening remarks by Eddy S. Mayen, Director of the Office of International Business Development and Protocol for the New Jersey Business Action Center within the Department of State. This was Plan B; we had originally tried and failed to have Chris Christie attend our event, who was then in his first term as Governor of New Jersey. The speakers and topics were: • Dawn Thiel Glaser (Beraca), Brazil – A Land of Opportunities: Vast Natural Resources and a Growing Personal Care Market • Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi (Protocolo Consultoria Personal and Health Care) – Guidelines to Develop Functional and Acceptable Hair and Skin Care Products for the Brazilian Market • Mohamed Omer (Mintel) – By the Numbers: The Personal Care Market in Brazil • Jean-François Molina (Solabia) – Overview of Brazilian Biodiversity and its Contribution to Skin and Hair Beauty • Sergio Oliveira (J&J) – Regulatory and Safety Issues in Brazil • Silvia Staniscuaski Guterres (Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul) – Innovative Nanotechnology-Based Cosmetics in Brazil: State of the Art and Trends • Rakesh Jain (Amyris) – Cosmetic Products from Sugarcane • Emiro Khury (Ekconsultores) – Technological Advances and Regulatory Aspects in Sunscreens Products in Latin America • Ana Palombo (Coty) – The Brazilian Fragrance Market
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The press release following Suppliers’ Day summarized the events:
Edison, NJ ― The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemist Suppliers’ Day was held on May 13-14, 2014, at the New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center. There were more than 6,700 registered attendees from cosmetic formulation and manufacturing and raw ingredient suppliers. Of those who attended, their primary job functions consisted of manufacturing, sales, marketing, product development, purchasing, and QA/AC. According to Steve Neidenberg, NYSCC Chair, “We were thrilled with this year’s attendance and growth. It’s a positive sign that there is a higher level of economic confidence.” Suppliers’ Day has grown over the years and attracts attendees from 47 countries around the globe.
In conjunction with its world-renowned Suppliers’ Day event, the NYSCC assembled a program of experts to explore Brazil and its immense opportunities. This event was held the day before the opening of Suppliers’ Day. Nearly 200 industry professionals attended this session to learn more about Brazil’s biological diversity, which is the largest in the world. It is one of the most ethnically diverse countries and a major consumer of personal care products and fragrances. According to Steve Herman, NYSCC Advisor, “As more companies are embracing globalization to reach new customers in new markets, a greater understanding of consumer preferences, important product types, and regulatory issues in this vast and growing market is essential.”
NYSCC Employment Section
Below are some positions in the personal care industry that are posted on the NYSCC website. For a full description of the jobs, visit https://nyscc.org/jobs.
• Scientific Writer GoodMolecules Philadelphia, PA
• Chemist Azelis Group Princeton, NJ
• Technical Sales Representative Rossow USA Inc. New Jersey
• Senior Chemist Applications Lab Kobo Products South Plainfield, NJ
• Skin and Hair Internship TRI-Princeton Princeton, NJ
• Account Executive – Southeast Presperse Southeastern USA
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The Next Generation of Hair Care February 29, 2024 4:00 – 8:15 p.m.
Il Villaggio • Carlstadt, NJ
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his event will take the audience on an insightful exploration of hair care. It is an exciting time where we are inspired more than ever to deliver game-changing offerings in the hair category. This program aims to highlight areas that are at the forefront of innovation and relevance as we consider the future of hair care. Starting with a historical review of innovative advancements and challenges in hair care, the event will then proceed with presentations on beauty tech and hair graying. Sponsored posters and tabletops that demonstrate other perspectives on the next generation of hair care will also be available for discussion. Come out and enjoy an evening of informative presentations, lively networking, and the chance to win exciting prizes, all at a stunning new venue. Event Organizer: Amber Evans, Ph.D. (chair@nyscc.org) Event proudly sponsored by:
Agenda 4:00 – 5:10 p.m. Networking Reception (Cocktails, Poster/Tabletop Experiences) 5:10 – 5:15 p.m. Introduction 5:15 – 5:40 p.m. Challenges in Hair Care Innovation – Manuel Gamez-Garcia, Ph.D. (Fairleigh Dickinson University) 5:40 – 6:05 p.m. Silver Strands: A 360° View on Hair Greying – Sophia Bull (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 6:05 – 7:05 p.m. Dinner 7:05 – 7:30 p.m. Exploring The Complexity and Fluidity of Hair Texture, Type, and Condition Through Science and Technology – Tanisha Billups (Myavana) 7:35 – 7:40 p.m. Closing Remarks and Giveaways 7:40 – 8:15 p.m. Dessert and Poster/Tabletop Experiences To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org). 10
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Speaker Abstracts and Biographies
PROTAMEEN
Challenges in Hair Care Innovation
Over the years the practice of hair care by consumers has given rise to an industry with a great deal of complexity with more than five categories, each one branching out into a myriad of products. Though the industry has been abundant in product development, it also has been scarce at times. A center piece in the pace of product development is innovation. This presentation will focus on a discussion of how innovation in hair care has evolved over the years. Most importantly the discussion will center on how various factors in the hair care environment interact among each other affecting innovation. Many times, the connections among these factors during product development are not immediately apparent or not well understood. This presentation will throw more light and increase awareness on the complexities involved in hair care innovation. Having a clear understanding of the degree of complexity when innovating in this area will allow hair care research teams to have more possibilities for successful product development.
n Manuel Gamez-Garcia, Ph.D. (Fairleigh Dickinson University)
Manuel Gamez-Garcia received his Master’s degree in Electrochemistry from Tokyo Institute of Technology in Japan, and his Ph.D. in Engineering Physics in the field of polymers from Ecole Polytechnique in Montreal, Canada. He has a long career in hair care innovation and has held various management positions at Croda, Inc.; Dow Chemicals Corporation; Firmenich, Inc.; Ciba; BASF; and Ashland Specialty Ingredients. Currently Dr. Gamez-Garcia is Adjunct Professor at the School of Natural Sciences at Fairleigh Dickinson University. He is the author of numerous publications on hair physical properties. In 2000 and 2019, Dr. Gamez-Garcia was awarded by the SCC for his work on hair care related topics. ___________________________________________________________________________
Silver Strands: A 360° View on Hair Greying
The color of hair is determined by the amount and type of pigment called melanin present in hair follicles. Melanin is produced by specialized cells called melanocytes that transfer melanin via organelles called melanosomes to the keratinocytes that form growing hair. There are two types of melanin: eumelanin and pheomelanin. Eumelanin is responsible for black or brown color, while pheomelanin is responsible for red. The ratio of these two pigments in a hair fiber determines the tone of the hair. Gray hair is a natural phenomenon that occurs when the hair follicles stop producing melanin and existing melanin is more prone to oxidation. As we age, this decreases the overall content of melanin available to give growing hair its color and leads to the appearance of gray hair. The age at which grey hair appears varies between different demographics. Much of the greying process is genetically programmed, however there are also external and internal factors, like stress, that can contribute to hair greying. In the last fifteen years there has been an acceleration of studies focused on understanding the biological mechanism of the hair greying process and what factors contribute to it. Recent insights have also delivered opportunities to investigate ways to combat hair greying. A full overview of the hair pigmentation and greying process will be presented as well as how internal and external factors can modulate it, and finally various approaches developed to control hair greying will be discussed.
n Sophia Bull (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
Sophia Bull joined Lucas Meyer Cosmetics as the Regional Marketing Manager for North America in 2019. In this role she supports customers and delivers regionalized promotions and launches. She is based in New York City and has over a decade of experience in the personal care industry spanning both the technical and commercial sides. After several years working in pharmaceutical regulatory for AstraZeneca, Sophia began her career in the personal care industry as regulatory support for Croda, building on her technical background. Roles in marketing and sales followed at Croda and then at Botaneco. She has spoken at several SCC conferences including Suppliers’ Day and Naturally Kiawah. Sophia obtained her Master’s degree in Chemistry from the University of Leeds.
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Supplier of specialty materials!
Tom Balsamides 375 Minnisink Road Totowa NJ Cell 201.207.0570 PROTAMEENTOMB@AOL.COM WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM
Exploring The Complexity and Fluidity of Hair Texture, Type, and Condition Through Science and Technology The Next Generation of Hair Care
CSR program Naturally committed to a sustainable world
(continued from Page 11)
More than a mere extension of our beauty, our hair encapsulates identity, health, and the care we extend to it. Historically, hair has been a powerful medium of cultural, societal, and personal expression. This is accentuated by the fact that each person's hair possesses its own unique characteristics—type, texture, and condition. Delving deeper into this narrative, The Complexity and Fluidity of Hair aims to illuminate the intricacies of attributes including its texture, type, condition, porosity, elasticity, density, and the holistic health of the scalp. Our mission is to provide you with a comprehensive insight into your hair's present condition, its transformative nature, and its unique needs.
n Tanisha Billups (Myavana)
Tanisha Billups is a graduate of Spelman College with a Bachelor of Science in Chemistry and Master’s in Chemical Engineering from North Carolina A&T State University. She has worked in R&D with Myavana since 2016 with a passion in science and specifically all things hair and beauty. As a true leader in beauty tech, she values how intentionally we C.A.R.E. for so many through their hair journey to achieve their hair goals. She values how Myavana is the ultimate opportunity to empower and impact while innovating and leading the way by adding more expertise and diversity to the beauty industry.
Beauty from Within: Next Level Beauty Care & Wellness Strategies March 26, 2024 3:00 – 9:00 p.m.
Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ
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Event Organizer: Michael Anthonavage
(manthonavage@vitaquest.com)
ridging the gap with oral supplementation and topical treatment, join us for a series of enlightening presentations that delves into the symbiotic relationship between oral supplementation and topical treatments for optimal skin health. While skincare routines often focus on external remedies, the significance of nourishing our skin from within cannot be overstated. This session will explore the combined benefits of approaching skin care from both sides unveiling a comprehensive strategic approach to achieving radiant and resilient skin. We will unravel the intricate interplay between internal and external factors influencing skin health, market dynamics, and positioning all while emphasizing the need for a holistic approach to achieve beauty nirvana. Don't miss this opportunity to elevate your skincare knowledge and revolutionize your approach to skin wellness. Together, let's embrace the holistic path to glowing, vibrant skin that radiates health from the inside out. To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org). 12
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In Memoriam
Your partner for innovation and success brenntag.com
I
Paul Thau
(Former NYSCC Chair and SCC President)
t is with deep regret that I inform you of the passing of one of the icons of our industry, Paul Thau, who died at the age of 91 on February 15, 2024. He graduated from Columbia University College of Pharmaceutical Science in 1954. After working in pharmacies for a short time, he decided to pursue a career in cosmetic research and development. Mr. Thau was a well-recognized expert in the cosmetic field. He was employed at Cosmair/ L’Oréal USA for over 22 years, during which time he served as Assistant Vice President of Cosmetic R&D and then as Senior Research Fellow. His cosmetic industry experience spanned more than fifty years and included R&D positions at Revlon, Bristol-Meyers, CIBA Pharmaceutical, and Warner Lambert. He served as a cosmetic industry consultant from 1999 to 2014 through the formation of the cosmetic consulting company PaCar-Tech, which specialized in innovative product development. Mr. Thau served the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) in many capacities including Chairman of the New York chapter in 1971 and as President of the National Organization in 1988. Later he was a member of the IFSCC Presidium and Scientific Committee. He was a Fellow of the SCC and the inventor of twenty issued U.S. patents. He was presented with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Maison de Navarre Award in 2005, the Society’s highest honor awarded to an individual for his/her technical contributions to the field of cosmetic science. Paul was the son of the late Morris and Vivienne Thau, and loving husband of Carole. He is survived by his wife, Carole, daughters, Rona and Robin, and grandchildren, Lauren and Jake. In his free time, he enjoyed playing senior tennis doubles, growing vegetables, reading, feeding birds, and taking winter vacations to Delray Beach, Florida for over fourteen years. He lived a good life and endeavored to make contributions to society.
NYSCC Celebrates Earth Day April 11, 2024 6:00 – 8:30 p.m.
Stella Marina Restaurant Asbury Park, NJ For more information, or to register for this event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
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NYSCC Ski Trip
Friday, January 19, 2024 Belleayre Mountain Highmount, NY
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