Cosmetiscope Mar 2018 by NYSCC Webmaster

MARCH 2018 • Vol. 24 No. 3

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists

www.nyscc.org

Scent of the Future – The Role of Science and Technology in the Art of Perfumery

t its core, perfumery is an artistic endeavor—like a chef tasting flavors, a musician hearing notes, or a painter visualizing the colors on a palette. A perfumer is guided by his/her nose to choose and balance each aroma within a composition in order to create the impression of say, a bouquet of flowers, and manifest their concept in a way that is endearing to the senses and evokes the feelings and memories in which they found their inspiration. Throughout history, the evolution of the art of perfumery has been virtually married to advances in the sciences, particularly in chemistry. It was the Persian chemist Avicenna who developed and perfected the technology of steam distillation in the 11th century, enabling for the first time the extraction of the essential oil of roses, and in the late 19th to early 20th century, chemists like William Henry Perkin and Karl Reimer, who first synthesized coumarin and vanillin, respectively. Such advances brought about the dawn of fragrance chemistry, opening a Pandora’s box of aromas for the perfumer beyond naturally derived materials. These discoveries led to fragrances, such as Houbigant’s Fougere Royale and Guerlain’s Jicky, which were milestones for the art form, made possible by the application of scientific thinking and research. For the 21st century perfumer, continuing advancement has kept pushing the boundaries of perfumery as an art form, yet again by advances in technology, synthetic chemistry, and even bioengineering. The invention and proliferation of headspace analysis has been one such monumental development for perfumers. An analytical technique used for the separation and concentration of volatile organic compounds, one is able to isolate and characterize the full spectrum of fragrant molecules present in the air—or the headspace —around an object, above a liquid, or in a particular environment, and understand which molecules are responsible for the impression of an odor.1 A dome or sphere-like apparatus is placed around the object of interest, and either inert gases are passed through the

…by Matthew Brooks

chamber, or a vacuum is utilized, to remove the volatile, fragrant compounds from the headspace. The fragrant molecules are then captured using a variety of techniques, which may include solvent traps and adsorbent materials. This concentrated ‘headspace vapor’ can then be injected directly into a gas chromatograph system for analysis, ultimately revealing the chemical formula behind a particular odor.1 This technology has been monumental for perfumers, effectively providing a paint-by-numbers approach to replicating various aromas, from a particular variant of rose to the scent of aged paper in an antique book. In 2001, Roman Kaiser of Givaudan, a pioneer of this technology, notably used it to measure and characterize the scents of a tropical rainforest, sampling orchids using a net suspended from an airship!2 By utilizing this advancement in chemical analysis, (Continued on page 4)

NYSCC-AMERICAN SOCIETY OF PERFUMERS JOINT SYMPOSIUM March 22nd • The Legacy Castle, Pompton Plains, NJ

2018 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Cathy Piterski chair@nyscc.org

CHAIR-ELECT Sonia Dawson chair-elect@nyscc.org

TREASURER Michael Smith Treasurer@nyscc.org

TREASURER-ELECT Stephen Carter treasurer-elect@nyscc.org

SECRETARY Roumelia Alina secretary@nyscc.org

ADVISOR Marie Thadal advisor@nyscc.org

HOUSE Suzanne Dawis suzanne.dawis@gmail.com

MEMBERSHIP Mohamed Abdulla mohamed.abdulla@airliquide.com

PROGRAM Steve Herman steveh50@optonline.net

COMMUNICATIONS Theresa Phamduy webmaster@nyscc.org

SPECIAL EVENTS Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com

COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com

Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.

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Letter from the Chair

…Cathy Piterski

t is hard to believe we are already anticipating spring and Q1 is coming to a close! With that being said, NYSCC activities continue to gain momentum and concluded programs have hit their marks! February’s highlights included a joint ski trip with the LISCC to Killington, VT, where we were treated to a wonderful guest speaker—Marc Cornell from Englewood Labs—as well as some great conditions the first day of the event, which continued through the weekend. Packaging and Your Products was the featured educational program in February with guest speakers Dr. Chad Mueller (Scholle IPN) and Dustin Willis (MW Luxury Packaging). March has come in like a lion with a fierce nor’easter—the good news is that spring and warmth are around the corner. Steve Herman, our Program Chair, has a terrific event planned for March 22nd, Fragrance Today: Science, Regulation, and Creation. This is a full day event taking place at Legacy Castle in Pompton Plains, NJ. It is a joint effort between the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists and the American Society of Perfumers. We hope you have marked your calendars and plan to join us for what should be an excellent event regarding a topic that is always relevant and in demand in our industry. Looking forward, April’s program will be Cosmetics in the Middle East: A Regulatory Perspective. And, in 60 days, we will welcome “Beauty Week in New York City” as Suppliers’ Day anchors a week of programming, which starts on May 14th with CEP courses from National SCC. Taking place at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, Suppliers’ Day then opens its doors May 15th -16th, and ICMAD’s regulatory course concludes programming on May 17th. CEW’s Beauty Awards closes out the week on May 18th and will debut the “Innovations in Formulations Award” featuring NYSCC as a category judge. As you can see, there is a lot happening! We urge you to register for upcoming programs and for Suppliers’ Day if you have not already done so! We look forward to seeing you soon!

Upcoming 2018 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org March 22 Fragrance Today: Science, Regulation, and Creation Symposium – The Legacy Castle, Pompton Plains, NJ April 25 Cosmetics in the Middle East: A Regulatory Perspective Symposium – Liberty Science Center, Jersey City, NJ May 15-16 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY June 5 Microbiome Symposium – L’Oréal USA, Clark, NJ July 23 NYSCC Golf Outing – Crystal Springs Golf Course, Hamburg, NJ September 12 Sunscreen Symposium: Extending Your Invisible Umbrella – Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel, Iselin, NJ September 20 Culinary Event – Midtown Loft & Terrace, New York, NY October 17 Sustainable Cosmetic Science Seminar – Chart House, Weehawken, NJ November 7 Inflammatory Skin Diseases and Barrier Function Seminar – Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ

Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

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a perfumer should now be able to replicate any odor in existence, or even artistically expand upon the formulas derived from analyses to create new accords. The technology is also useful for studying the physical properties of perfume materials that influence their performance, such as evaporation rates, having implications for the improvement of fixatives.3 A perfumer requires an expansive pallet of aromachemicals in order to create new scents. Fortunately, fragrance chemists since Perkin and Reimer have been hard at work providing new chemistries. Since the synthesis of coumarin, the naturally-occurring molecules able to be identified by headspace gas chromatography analysis have been valuable targets to synthesize, but chemists have not stopped there. With both the development of biophysicist Luca Turin’s vibrational theory of olfaction4 as well as structure-odor relationship and ‘olfactophore model’ studies5 carried out by fragrance chemists such as Philip Kraft (who joined Roman Kaiser on his expedition), the understanding of the essence of an odor has been distilled—pun intended—to the molecular level. For example, the characteristic aroma of musk has not just been attributed to a set of compounds, but to the synergistic effects of these molecules interacting together. If the phenomenon of smell involves a type of a lock-and-key interaction, we have now come to better understand what the bare minimum is for a molecular ‘key’ to unlock a particular odor perception in the mind. Armed with this advanced understanding of the properties of a molecule that result in the perception of a particular odor when interacting with the chemical receptors the olfactory system, chemists have unlocked a cornucopia of synthetic targets and are able to proceed with a sense of informed design. For example, once the alpha- and beta-damascones, or rose ketones, were understood to be characteristic for the aroma of rose, Kraft while working with Givaudan was able to design a ‘cut open’ seco-damascone that was rosey, but far fruitier in nature, and the hit ingredient pomarose was born, which debuted in DKNY’s Be Delicious Men.6 This in and of itself is an artform, and like blending pigments to achieve a certain shade of color, chemists are now able to fine tune novel molecules to provide a certain shade of an aroma. The methods by which fragrant compounds are synthesized has also experienced a renaissance, this time by biochemists and bioengineers. Sustainability has long been a subject of concern for the fragrance industry. For the sheer volume of raw materials that are needed, traditional agriculture presents a challenge due to the amount of land that would be required, not to mention the labor involved. While the advent of traditional synthetic chemistry presented a solution to this challenge, it too has its own struggles with sustainability, particularly in regards to waste production. While green chemistry, which advocates for the use of more sustainable and environmentally friendly synthesis pathways, reagents, and solvents, has been a focus of almost every chemistry-related industry moving into the 21st century, it has been biochemists and bioengineers who have worked to provide a revolutionary solution by developing cutting edge biosynthetic methods of producing fragrant compounds. This involves introducing novel, artificially designed genes into the genome of bacteria, which when provided with the right starting materials, will synthesize and produce fragrant chemical compounds, or utilize enzymes that are able to perform a specific transformation. Akigalawood, a captive ingredient of Givaudan’s, was produced utilizing the enzymatic method. Their Biosciences Team found that the enzyme laccase, with processing using just water and salts, was able to transform a natural material into a new fragrant compound, never before available to perfumers and having M A R C H

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a profile similar to patchouli with hints of spicy pepper and agarwood.7 The former approach has seen much use as well, an example being Ginkgo Bioworks of Boston, MA having worked with Firmenich to engineer yeast capable of producing a complex mixture containing the compounds found in rose essential oil.8 At the end of the day, these advancements have not changed the fact that perfumery is an art form, reliant on the training of one’s nose and the development of technique and artistic sensibilities. As Jean Carles, founder of the Givaudan Perfumery School, said, “A scientific background is not necessary for the perfumer.” However, it is an art that is still to this day evolving and being complimented by these scientific advancements of headspace analysis, informed design of fragrant molecules, and new synthesis methods, which have only enhanced what can be expressed with a fragrance, and reveal a broad, sustainable horizon for perfumers to explore as we advance into the 21st century.

References 1. Restek Corporation, A Technical Guide for Static Headspace Analysis Using GC, (2000). Retrieved from https://www.restek.com/pdfs/59895B.pdf. 2. Future Anterior, Headspace: an interview with Roman Kaiser, (2016). Retrieved from https://muse.jhu.edu/article/659117. 3. C. Vuilleumier, I. Flament, and P. Sauvegrain, Headspace analysis study of evaporation rate of perfume ingredients applied onto skin, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 17, 61-76 (1995). 4. L. Turin, The Secret of Scent: Adventures in Perfume and the Science of Smell, HarperCollins: New York, NY (2007). 5. G. Ohloff, W. Pickenhagen, and P. Kraft, Scent and Chemistry: The Molecular World of Odors, Wiley-VCH Verlag: Weinheim (2012). 6. E. Davies, The sweet scent of success, Chemistry World, January 28, 2009. Retrieved from https://www.chemistryworld.com/feature/the-sweet-scent-of-success/3004856.article. 7. Givaudan, Can a face cream save the planet? Givaudan SA, Vernier, Switzerland. Retrieved from https://www.givaudan.com/sustainability/can-face-cream-save-planet. 8. Ginkgo Bioworks, A new cultured rose oil from yeast, Ginkgo Bioworks, Boston, MA. Retrieved from https://www.ginkgobioworks.com/our-work/new-cultured-version-rose-oil-yeast/.

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About the Author:

atthew Brooks is currently a third-year student, pursuing a B.A. in Chemistry at Boston University with an expected graduation date in 2019. In addition, he is also a fragrance consultant at Sephora, and plans to enter the fragrance industry upon graduation, where his dream is to train as a perfumer, releasing his passion for fragrance, sense of creativity and artistry, and appreciation for nature and informed design can converge. He has already completed an aromachemical synthesis and structure-odor relationship research project and is working to train his nose in preparation for studying perfumery. His main areas of interest have come to include fine and product fragrances, olfactive science and technology, natural products chemistry and organic synthesis, health and wellness, and environmental sustainability.

Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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NYSCC-American Society of Perfumers Joint Symposium

Fragrance Today Science - Regulation - Creation March 22, 2018

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8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. Legacy Castle • Pompton Plains, NJ

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oin us for a full day of expert presentations on all aspects of the fragrance industry, from the lab, though critical regulatory updates, to marketing, creativity, and the connection of fragrance to art. Regardless of your role in industry, there will be much to learn, and attending this event will provide a unique prospective on the many diverse and exciting aspects of the world of fragrance.

NYSCC Chair Cathy Piterski

NYSCC Event Chair Steve Herman

President, American Society of Perfumers Vincent Kuczinski 6

NYSCC Event Co-chair Jacqueline Mohen

Chair, American Society of Perfumers Christopher C. Diienno M A R C H

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Agenda 8:40 – 8:45 a.m. Opening Remarks 8:45 – 9:30 a.m. The Science of Fragrance Evaporation and Fixation – Dr. Robert Fuller (Muhlenberg College) 9:30 – 10:15 a.m. From Molecule to Man to Machine: Translating Chemical Perceptual Responses to the Digital Environment – Dr. Andrea Buettner (Friedrich-Alexander-Universität Erlangen-Nürnberg) 10:15 – 10:30 a.m. Break 10:30 – 11:15 a.m. Biosynthesis of Fragrance Materials – Leandro Nonino (Ginkgo Bioworks) 11:15 a.m. – 12:15 p.m. QRA2 and the 49th Amendment—RIFM Today for Perfumers – Anne Marie Api (RIFM) 12:15 – 1:00 p.m. Lunch 1:00 – 1:45 p.m. What the Lab Wants Perfumers and Sales to Know – Davis O’Halloran (Arcade Beauty) 1:45 – 2:30 p.m. Fragrance Marketing in the Digital World – Bart Schmidt (Brands With Purpose) 2:30 – 2:45 p.m. Break 2:45 – 3:30 p.m. Entering the Magic Garden: Thoughts on Becoming a Perfumer – Jessica Reichert Weber (Premier Specialties Inc.) and Kaleigh Prokop (MANE) 3:30 – 4:15 p.m. Fragrance in the History of Art – Alexis Palmer Karl (Scent By Alexis)

Event Location The Legacy Castle 141 NJ-23 Pompton Plains, NJ 07444 Tel: (973) 907-7750 Website: https://thelegacycastle.com

Registration Information Pre-registration cost/at door cost: • SCC members: $35/$70 • Non-SCC members: $70/$100 • Students: $10/$50 • Emeritus: $0/$10 To register, please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.

Hotel Information Hampton Inn & Suites Fairfield 118 US-46 Fairfield, NJ 07004 Tel: (973) 575-5777 (Continued on page 8)

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NYSCC-American Society of Perfumers Joint Symposium

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--------------- Speakers and Abstracts ---------------

The Science of Fragrance Evaporation and Fixation – Robert Fuller

nderstanding and controlling fragrance volatility is critical in designing a high performing fragrance. The evaporation process is fairly well understood, but there is little work that applies this work to fragrance ingredients. Perfumery is more accustomed to empirical methods, such as the fragrance pyramid, blotter test, or a simple sniff on a person's arm. These tests will be examined from a physical chemistry perspective. Quantitative results from thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) experiments (weight loss) will also be shown for several systems and modeled using equilibrium and kinetic models. A particular emphasis of solvents and fixatives will be discussed and how the formation of a stagnant layer can effectively reduce evaporation rates. n Robert

L. Fuller, Ph.D.

Dr. Robert L. Fuller has worked over 20 years in the fragrance and cosmetics industry. His industrial career began at Colgate-Palmolive where he worked on the Softsoap brand. Subsequently, he worked at Firmenich leading the North American Fragrance Application team, and then at FMI, a contractor manufacturer. In 2012, he joined Muhlenberg College where he currently teaches courses in Fragrance Chemistry, Consumer Products, and General Chemistry. At Muhlenberg, he also has a small team of students who perform research on the physical properties of fragrance ingredients. _____________________________________________

From Molecule to Man to Machine: Translating Chemical Perceptual Responses to the Digital Environment – Andrea Buettner

espite the wealth of knowledge on chemical composition and olfactory receptors, the prediction of odor quality and intensity of a chemical substance on the basis of its elemental structural—not to mention the general psychophysiological and emotional impact it has on a person—confounds our understanding as we repeatedly encounter the limits of established biological and biochemical methods. This is especially true when it comes to the high interindividual variances that are observed in human odor perception. Digitization—including the concepts and methods that have generally fallen under the buzz term Big Data in recent years—still widely overlooks the chemical and chemo-sensory industry. In particular, the study of analytical chemistry, organic chemistry, physiology, and psychology must interact more intensely with the disciplines of machine learning, sensor technology, and microelectronics to address the manifold of perceptual and translational questions that still remain unanswered today. The initiative of the Campus of the Senses Erlangen aims at combining interdisciplinary basic research with application-oriented R&D on the subject of digital sensory transition with a view to advancing scientific understanding of human chemosensation by recording and processing individual sensory impressions digitally. n Andrea

Buettner, Ph.D.

Dr. Buettner studied Food Chemistry, subsequently completing her Ph.D. in the field of Aroma Research. She was awarded a professorship in the field of Flavor Research and currently holds the position of Professor for Aroma Research at FriedrichAlexander-Universität Erlangen-Nürnberg. She is also Deputy Director of the Fraunhofer Institute of Process Engineering and Packaging IVV and Head of the Department of 8

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Sensory Analytics. In addition, she is co-initiator of the Campus of the Senses Erlangen, together with Professor Albert Heuberger, Director of the Fraunhofer Institute for Integrated Circuits IIS. Dr. Buettner’s work has demonstrated the importance of the combined effects of food and matrix composition—as well as saliva, mucosa, mastication, and swallowing—on flavor release and perception. She has identified new odorous compounds with a special focus on citrus and other food materials and has worked on structure-odor relationships. Recent work also addresses packaged foods and products of daily use in relation to their chemosensorially active constituents. Some of her experimental methods include chemical trace analysis, quantification via stable isotope dilution analysis, monitoring of physiological processes, psychophysical measurements of sensory data, and determination of chemosensorially active and volatile compounds as well as their metabolites in vivo. In current studies at the University of Erlangen and Fraunhofer IVV, Freising, Dr. Buettner has broadened her research interests to include the field of volatiles and chemosensorially active compounds in the physiological context, with monitoring of uptake, distribution, and biotransformation of odorants, as well as neoformation of metabolites from non-volatile food ingredients in vivo and physiological impact of such derivatives in humans. Through her work, she also contributes to research regarding psychological and behavioral aspects in human nutrition. _____________________________________________

The Biosynthesis of Fragrance Molecules – Leandro Nonino

iotechnology and fermentation enable the biosynthesis of cultured fragrance ingredients in designer yeasts. Compared to botanical extracts, cultured ingredients can provide better economics, supply stability, and sustainability. This presentation will provide an introduction to the technologies making these ingredients possible at commercial scale and the potential for cultured fragrances in the future.

n Leandro

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Leandro Nonino is the Head of Business Development for the Flavors and Fragrance Industry at Ginkgo Bioworks, a Boston-based biological engineering company producing cultured ingredients for a wide range of industries. Originally from Brazil, Leandro trained as a Food Engineer before completing an MBA from IMD in Lausanne, Switzerland. Prior to joining Ginkgo Bioworks, Leandro held the position of Vice-president of Sales and Marketing at Evolva SA and previously served as the Global Director of Firmenich’s flavor ingredients business segment and Sales Director for the Americas for Firmenich's ingredients division. While at Firmenich, Leandro’s responsibilities included international sales and marketing, mergers and acquisitions, and long-term strategic product planning. In addition to his flavor and fragrance experience, Nonino has ten years of brand and product management experience in the food industry at Bestfoods, Danone, and Masterfoods. _____________________________________________

QRA2 and the 49th Amendment—RIFM Today for Perfumers – Anne Marie Api

he 49th Amendment to the International Fragrance Association’s (IFRA) guidelines will bring major changes to the process of establishing fragrance safety as well as altering the use categories and many ingredient use levels. The introduction of the decision tree in the most recent RIFM guidance document, and the development of Quantitative Risk Assessment 2 (QRA2), are prime drivers to the amendment. The new guidance document includes in silico methods and the Threshold of Toxicological Concern (TCC), and brings all of RIFM’s diverse testing activities into a unified format. The change in SAF values and incorporation of new cumulative exposure data in QRA2 have a significant effect on the safe usage levels for individual ingredients. (Continued on page 10)

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NYSCC-American Society of Perfumers Joint Symposium

n Anne

(Continued from page 9)

Marie Api, Ph.D.

Anne Marie Api is Vice-president, Human Health Sciences of The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials, Inc. (RIFM). Dr. Api started with RIFM in 1984 as a Scientific Assistant and has progressed through Toxicologist and then Manager before her current position. Before joining RIFM, she worked at Unilever Research (Edgewater, NJ) in the safety assurance section. Dr. Api earned a Doctor of Philosophy from Aston University in Birmingham, England. She has been a member of the Society of Toxicology since 1997. Among her other professional affiliations, she is a member of the American Academy of Dermatology, American Chemical Society, American Contact Dermatitis Society, American Society for Photobiology, European Society Contact Dermatitis, Mid-Atlantic Chapter of the Society of Toxicology, Society of Investigative Dermatology, and Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce (Board of Directors, 1997-present; Treasurer, 2008-present). She also is a member of the Dermal Clinical Evaluation Society and served on the DCES Board of Directors from 1991-1997. She has authored over 100 scientific publications and presentations. _____________________________________________

What the Lab Wants Perfumers and Sales to Know – David O’Halloran

fragrance applications laboratory can be a frenetic place with very diverse customers— from marketers with no scientific background to Ph.D. level scientists with very technical understanding. Customers deliver briefs to the fragrance applications laboratory, which are sometimes very technical and specific. Sales and Perfumery are at the front line with the customer. They pick up and develop against the briefs, and need to always be aware of specific requirements for the customer’s desired effect. Oftentimes, projects that come to the laboratory are misunderstood as information from the customer may be explained loosely, or the sales and internal team may miss a critical detail. More often than not, we fix things as they go wrong. As the technical head of a laboratory, you often have to peel away the layers to resolve problems and maintain a win. Each product form used in a fine fragrance or toiletry laboratory has specific challenges and requirements. Being a well-versed formulator is an important criterion for working in this technical capacity. There is no such thing as a one-fix solution. You have to understand packaging components and manufacturing processes, not only for the fragrance, but the end product as well. This information also needs to be explained to the perfumer, so he/she can create a fragrance which works in its final destination. The customer is also looking for you to make firm and clear suggestions on their base, or how the fragrance can resolve an issue with a base. It is a challenge to squeeze a miracle into such a low percentage that is consistuted by the fragrance in the formula. This paper will address ideas on how you can be successful at doing all this—most of the time—and maintain some sanity.

n David

O’Halloran

David is Vice-president Fragrance and Cosmetic Technologies at Arcade Beauty. Since graduating from Rutgers University in 1978, David has dedicated his career to the cosmetic and fragrance industry. He worked for Pfizer Consumer Products, Mennen, Revlon, P&G, Crabtree and Evelyn, Bristol Myers, Sensient, and Givaudan Fragrances. David created and collaborated on the development of many successful fragrance brand formulations while working on the finished goods side of the business. While at Givaudan, David was responsible for stabilizing and improving fragrance delivery for hundreds of fragrances used today. David has been a guest lecturer at Fairleigh Dickinson University and Rutgers University for students enrolled in Master’s programs. He has also lectured on fragrance applications and skin care at several SCC events. David holds four U.S. patents in skin care, fragrance, and cosmetics. 10

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Fragrance Marketing in the Digital World – Bart Schmidt

ow do we sell a fragrance product in the digital world? Without brick-and-mortar stores, it is a challenge to connect with consumers on an item we traditionally smell before we buy. Celebrity fragrances, a key marketing tool for many years, have also faded. We will show how to use the new tools of social media to re-image the perfume industry, where a click from a Youtube video can sell fragrance to a new generation.

n Bart

Schmidt

Bart Schmidt—originally from Amsterdam, Netherlands—began his fragrance journey in Germany. He spent two years actively studying the industry, received his degree, and then embarked on an intense training/work program in New York. He spent more than twenty years working in the corporate fragrance development world with two of the largest global fragrance houses, Symrise and Firmenich USA. He found Brands With Purpose in January 2013, with the goal to help companies navigate the beauty landscape by creating opportunities for fashion, lifestyle, and celebrity brands to develop and market their own beauty and perfume lines. Bart’s connection with designers, manufacturers, and fulfillment houses has already resulted in several successful launches in fine fragrance (perfumes), air care (i.e. candle), and personal care. Bart’s work philosophy is guided by the three C’s of fragrance development: connect, create, and, most importantly, consider. A portion of his company’s proceeds supports underserved youth development. _____________________________________________

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Entering the Magic Garden: Thoughts on Becoming a Perfumer – Jessica Reichert Weber and Kaleigh Prokop

commonly asked question by those new to, or unfamiliar with, the fragrance industry is: What is a perfumer? Questions that naturally follow are: • What is the training process to become a perfumer? • Where do perfumers draw their inspirations from? • Who the lucky ones that succeed? In this segment, Jessica and Kaleigh will speak about their special stories of becoming perfumers. They will share their experiences of growing and learning within the industry and provide insight into where their passion comes as well as convey their hopes and predictions towards the future of perfumery. n Jessica

Reichert Weber

Jessica was introduced to the fragrance industry by her parents, Tony Reichert (Master Perfumer at Firmenich) and Odila Zocca (Vice-president of Technical and Chief Perfumer at Premier Specialties). Starting with summer internships, she learned early on a great deal about how the industry works and its many intricate details. She continued working during school breaks while attending the University of Hartford, where she received a Bachelor’s Degree in Art History. Jessica originally planned on pursuing a career aligned with her degree. However, while working as a laboratory technician, compounding perfumers’ formulas, she found her calling to follow in her parents’ footsteps. She trained in perfumery under Ted Barba (IFF), who guided her in learning the olfactory characteristics of raw materials and how they are best used in formulation. After just one year of training, Jessica was promoted to Junior Perfumer. Combined with her (Continued on page 12)

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dedication and passion for learning, and the support of her mentor, parents, and fellow coworkers, Jessica is now a successful Creative Perfumer at Premier Specialties, Inc. While Jessica is exposed to all product categories, she works mostly with personal care and candle (air care) products. n Kaleigh

Prokop

Always drawn to fashion and the creative arts, Kaleigh Prokop moved to New York City to study at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) where she majored in Photography. Upon graduation, Kaleigh pursued a career in Cosmetology and furthered her education by enrolling in FIT’s Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing program. It was during her first class where she discovered her love of perfumery. The ability to channel her creative passions through raw materials was a dream come true. Following an internship at the MANE New York Creative Center and graduating Cum Laude, Kaleigh was offered a position as a Perfumer’s Assistant under Senior Perfumer, Jim Krivda. It was not long before Kaleigh was noticed and given the opportunity to begin her formal perfumery training under Jim Schmitt in the MANE New Jersey laboratory. Today, Kaleigh is an Apprentice Perfumer creating unique and beautiful compositions, and is a key member of the MANE perfumery team. Outside of work, Kaleigh continues to fuel her creative passions and interests through various outlets. Her approach to perfumery is shaped by her many hobbies, which consist of cooking, knitting, traveling, and reading. _____________________________________________

Fragrance in the History of Art

– Alexis Palmer Karl

n this presentation we will discuss ritual in scent—an olfactory and artistic exploration of ritual spanning from ancient Egyptian and Mayan culture to Shamanism and magical herbalism. Focusing on the oils and incenses extracted from specific resins, woods, spices, and florals, we will learn about the power of these fragrant elements that guided people throughout history in incantations, lifting the veil between spirits, casting spells, and influencing artistic culture. n Alexis

Palmer Karl

Alexis Palmer Karl is a multidisciplinary artist, perfumer, professor, and lecturer. She is the founder and perfumer of the artisanal fragrance company, Scent By Alexis, and co-founder and perfumer of the artisanal House of Cherry Bomb. Her fragrance work has been both exhibited as art, and sold as perfume nationally and internationally. Karl is a regular lecturer on the cultural and historical relevance of fragrance, fashion, and art at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and The Morbid Anatomy Museum, where she held the post of house perfumer and exhibiting artist. Karl teaches lecture and studio courses at Pratt Institute and The School of Visual Arts, where she encourages students to explore fragrance as an artistic medium within installation and performance. Her current research is based on ancient ritualism in fragrance, art, and fashion, and how archaic practices influence contemporary culture. Her research and lectures led her to be a fashion correspondent for Art 511 Magazine, and a contributing writer to various fragrance magazines and blogs. Alexis received her M.F.A. in Figurative Painting at The New York Academy of Art, Graduate School of Figurative Art and B.F.A. in Painting at Cornell University. She has exhibited her paintings, multimedia art, fragrance installations, and fragrance-music performance works in New York City, Italy, and UK. Her work has been featured in The New York Times, Women in The World, Ephemera Magazine, Disinfo Magazine, New York Post, London Times, Art News, ARCO Japan, Elle Magazine, Allure Magazine, Lucky Magazine, Time Out New York, The View, NBC, CNN, Salford City Radio (Manchester, UK), and WMBR Radio (Boston, MA). Karl is a Joan Mitchell Grant recipient, and a finalist in the Art and Olfaction Awards. 12

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Cosmetics in the Middle East: A Regulatory Perspective April 25, 2018 • 9:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m.

Liberty Science Center • Jersey City, NJ

Many of us have heard of the term halal, or perhaps “The Halal Guys”, if you are from the tri-state area! Most of us associate the term with Islamic dietary laws. However, halal is not exclusive to the food industry anymore. Nor is halal solely connected to religion. Halal certification has become increasingly popular in the personal care industry and has signified a standard of quality. Clients are encouraging their manufacturers to become halal certified, and more and more raw material suppliers are becoming certified or proving compliance within halal guidelines. The NYSCC April 2018 event—Cosmetics in the Middle East: A Regulatory Perspective—will begin with a “Halal 101” lecture by Mohamed Omer of Revlon. This lecture will provide a comprehensive definition and overview of halal, its transition from the food to personal care industry, and why it is trending in cosmetics. Afterwards, attendees will gain further insight on halal from three different perspectives within the personal care industry: raw materials, nail polish, and oral care manufacturers. John Gromley, the Director of Regulatory Affairs of Grant Industries, Inc. will share “The Essential Steps to Becoming a Global Halal Certified Ingredient Supplier”. Maya Cosmetics founders, Bilal Saeed and Javed Younis will discuss the making of Maya Cosmetics, manufacturer of luxurious, 100% halal, nail lacquers. And, Dr. Sayed Ibrahim, founder of Sprinjene, will share his story in developing an original, meticulously handcrafted, and halal certified toothpaste line. Following these presentations, attendees can enjoy traditional Middle Eastern cuisine. After lunch, we will take a look into the regulations of the Middle East. The Middle East is a leading market, and cosmetic companies are eager to sell their products this region of the world. But, what does it take to have a finished product in the Middle East, from a legal stance? When it comes to regulatory affairs, most people agree that the European Union sets the most rigid framework with the EC 1223/2009, an outline that many other regions follow. The Middle East is, in fact, one of those regions. However, it still has its own distinctions when it comes to processes, ingredients, labelling, and claims. George Bouboulis of the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) will discuss the Middle East’s regulatory framework, known as GCC Regulation (GSO 1943/2016). This presentation will include an overview and a comparative look against the frameworks of the United States and European Union as well as a future look, as this regulatory outline is scheduled to be updated by 2020. In addition, attendees will learn about regulatory advocacy in the Middle East. The event will close with a Halal Discussion Panel consisting of Gromley, Saeed, and Ibrahim, which will be moderated by Omer, to discuss the challenges and advantages regarding Halal Certification in the beauty industry.

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Cosmetics in the Middle East: A Regulatory Perspective With strong roots, we’re green and growing.

(Continued from page 13)

Agenda 9:00 – 9:30 a.m. Registration and Breakfast 9:30 – 9:40 a.m. Introduction – Leor Fay Tal (MANA Products) 9:40 – 10:15 a.m. Halal 101 – Mohammed Omer (Revlon) 10:15 – 10:45 a.m. The Essential Steps to Becoming a Global Halal Certified Ingredient Supplier – John Gormley (Grant Industries Inc.)

It’s only Bio.Logical. to contact us: (800) 223-7054 acme-hardesty.com

10:45 – 11:00 a.m. Break 11:00 – 11:30 a.m. Story of Maya Cosmetics – Javed Younis (Maya Cosmetics) and Bilal Saeed (Maya Cosmetics) 11:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Story of Sprinjene – Sayed Ibrahim (Sprinjene) 12:00 – 1:00 p.m. Lunch 1:00 – 1:45 p.m. Overview of GCC Regulations (GSO 1943/2016) and Regulatory Advocacy – George Bouboulis (PCPC) 1:45 – 2:00 p.m. NYSCC Announcements – Cathy Piterski (Givaudan) and Mohamed Omer (Revlon) 2:00 – 3:00 p.m. Halal Discussion Panel – Sayed Ibrahim (Sprinjene), John Gormley (Grant Industries Inc.), Mohamed Omer (Moderator – Revlon), and Bilal Saeed (Maya Cosmetics) _____________________________________________

Professional Henna Tattoo Receive a professional henna tattoo at the April 2018 NYSCC event. _____________________________________________

Event Location Explore the Liberty Science Center • 222 Jersey City Boulevard, Jersey City, NJ

ttendees will have the option to explore the Liberty Science Center after the program ends for a discounted price. Please check out the links below to see what is currently being offered.

• Current exhibitions: https://lsc.org/explore/today • Current movies and planetarium shows: https://lsc.org/explore/planetarium-films-laser-shows

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The NYSCC Supports Education Night

n December 11, 2017, coinciding with SCC Annual Scientific Meeting, the NYSCC held The NYSCC Supports Education Night event at the Hard Rock Cafe in Times Square, New York City. This charity event benefited several universities and research programs in connection to the National SCC Technical Symposium. Some of the awards and intended use are: • Fairleigh Dickinson University – Laboratory upgrade for the M.S. in Cosmetic Science program – $15,000 • Rutgers Douglass College – Funds for advancing woman in STEM – $10,000 • Rider Living and Learning Community – Learning community funds for business majors that are minoring in one of the science programs at Rider – $5,000 • RIT Sustainability – Sustainability initiatives – $5,000 • Trenton Catholic for Science Program – Funds for STEM – $5,000 • P.A.C.E. Program – Funds for advancing engeering students to be active on industry knowledge and education – $2,500

Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: https://www.nyscc.org/employment-listings.html.

n Purchasing Manager Sozio Piscataway, NJ

n Personal Care Sales – Key Acount Manager Croda NY/NJ/Midwest

n Midwest Sales Representative EES Cosmetic Solutions Chicago, IL or Indianapolis, IN

n Account Manager – Personal Care IMCD New Jersey

n Personal Care – Innovation Lab Tech DKSH North America, Inc. Mount Olive, NJ

n Northeast Account Manager Actives International LLC Any location with access to the northeastern U.S.

n Applications Scientist – Beauty Effects Croda Edison, NJ

n Sales Manager (West Coast/East Coast) ProXES, Inc. Any location in the U.S.

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Anti-Pollution Seminar January 17th Seasons Catering â&#x20AC;¢ Washington Township, NJ

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