Cosmetiscope March 2022 by NYSCC Webmaster

March 2022 • Vol. 28 • Issue 3

History of Salicylic Acid— Chemistry, Properties, and Cosmetic Applications

by Paul Thau

alicylic acid is a mild acid derived from the bark of the Willow Tree. The bark of this tree has been used as a traditional remedy for pain, inflammation, and fever since ancient times. Today, salicylic acid has become a popular treatment for acne and psoriasis, and is used for chemical peels to ameliorate the appearance of facial lines, wrinkles, blemishes, and sun damage. The medicinal use of salicylic acid was first documented by the ancient Greeks in about 500 B.C. John Buchner, at the University of Munich, was the first to distill Willow Bark to produce the substance he called “Salicin” in 1829. A year later, the French chemist, Henri Le Roux, perfected the extraction technique. In the 20th century, salicylic acid began to be used as a treatment for skin conditions such as acne and psoriasis. Salicylic acid has the capacity to soften skin and can be applied at various concentrations to remove dead skin cells and debris that can build up to cause acne.

Chemistry of Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is a carboxylic acid, which like most acids, donates hydrogen ions if a base is present to accept them. Salicylic acid reacts this way with all bases, both organic (for example, the amines) and inorganic. Their reactions with bases, called neutralizations, are accompanied by the evolution of substantial amounts of heat.

Solubilization of Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid does not dissolve well in water and many other common solvents. Here is a list of its solubility: • Water: 0.2% at 20 °C; 1.7% at 75 °C (adding 5% sodium phosphate or another neutral salt, the solubility of salicylic acid in water increases to 1.8%). • Alcohol (ethanol): 14% in pure ethanol; 0.5% in 20% ethanol. • Glycerin: About 1.6%. • Octyldodecanol: About 15-20%.

Ensure that you measure the pH after adding salicylic acid to your formula as salicylic acid lowers the pH. An exceptionally low pH may destabilize an emulsion and cause separation. To increase the pH again you can add an alkali, such as triethanolamine. Typically, the pH should not be below 3.5 for most cosmetic products.1

Applications for Salicylic Acid

The rapid onset and limited absorption of salicylic acid has demonstrated it to be an effective agent against comedones and keratolysis.2 Varying concentrations of salicylic acid provide benefits for local and general topical use as well as for targeted and repetitive applications. Products containing salicylic acid optimize its effect to support penetration of other agents and devices. In (continued on Page 6)

CLEAN BEAUTY – MINIMALISM IN FORMULATION • MARCH 30th ...see pages 4-5 for more information.

2022 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect Stacey House chair-elect@nyscc.org Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Alex Blakeman treasure-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Susanna Fernandes advisor@nyscc.org Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc.org By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com

Letter from the Chair

…Giorgio Dell’Acqua

pring fever is setting in and I am optimistically looking ahead to all the activities and events the NYSCC Chapter has planned over the next few months. But first, I want to thank all the volunteers and participants who made the beginning of this year an outstanding one! As we begin to emerge from the restrictions and “stay at home” mandates of the past two years, it has been wonderful to see so many members and my colleagues at our recent inperson events. The February program on “Artificial Intelligence and Its Application in Personal Care” at the Legacy Castle did not disappoint. Led by Dr. Hani Fares, our Scientific Committee Chair, this program fed our minds on the latest in computer science, AI, and technology, and its important and growing role in product and ingredient development. We also feasted with the delicious and bountiful food that the venue provided. The first AHLS (At Home Live Series) Webinar on “Four Pillars of Sustainability” on March 2nd was extremely well attended reaffirming the need for the Chapter to continue online programs as well as inperson events. Six AHLS programs are planned for this year to keep you, our members, and the cosmetic chemist community, conveniently informed and engaged. Personally, I am very excited about our program on clean beauty and minimalism taking place at the Chart House on Wednesday, March 30th. This is a topic I am passionate about, and I will be chairing this program as well as being one of the speakers. The program will explore the growing clean beauty movement and all its implications. This top tier program features a leading clean beauty brand, Glow Recipe, as well as business development specialists in the clean and wellness space, Zanovello Consultants. We will be taking a deep dive into the clean beauty movement, from trends in formulations and ingredients, to the retail space and the brand experience. Read more about the presenters, in this not to be missed dinner program, in this issue of Cosmetiscope. May will be here before you know it, and Suppliers’ Day registration is now open! Taking place May 3-4 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, this event is the only forum in North America for ingredients and formulation innovations and will be your destination for scientific and sourcing solutions. Click here to register. There will also be two Suppliers’ Day previews as part of AHLS on March 31st and April 26th to whet your appetite for what is to come in May and keep you informed on key topics such as: Ethical Sourcing and Biodiversity; and Green Formulations and Ingredients. We are also excited to announce that the finalists of the Supplier’s Award: Ingredients & Formulation, part of the prestigious CEW Beauty Creators Award program, will be announced at the Industry Awards Night on May 3rd, the first evening of Suppliers’ Day. Submissions for this specialized category are now being accepted at https://www.cew.org/awards-honors/beauty-awards/. The deadline for submissions is April 1, 2022. Are you interested in participating more in the NYSCC? There are so many ways for you to be involved and get the full benefit of your SCC membership. Don’t hesitate to reach out to me about opportunities that you may find of interest! I also hope to see many of you on March 30th at our Clean Beauty event. Scientifically yours,

Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com Social Media Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org 2

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Madam C.J. Walker Scholarship

About Madam C.J. Walker

Generously Sponsored by:

adam C. J. Walker (born Sarah Breedlove; 1867-1919) was an American entrepreneur, philanthropist, and political and social activist. She is regarded as the first female self-made millionaire in America. Walker made her fortune by developing and marketing a line of cosmetics and hair care products for black women through the business she founded, Madam C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company. She became known also for her philanthropy and activism. The Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Madam C.J. Walker Scholarship, generously sponsored by Mary Kay, signifies the SCC’s support of under-represented minorities pursuing higher education in STEM (science, technology, engineering, mathematics)–disciplines related to the cosmetics and personal care industry. This scholarship is a part of the SCC’s commitment to diversity, equity, and inclusion.

Scholarship Description

Two scholarships, in the amount of $5,000 USD each (sponsored by Mary Kay), will be awarded to two under-represented minorities (Black/African American, Native/American Indian, and Latino/Hispanic American) pursuing an undergraduate or post-graduate degree in chemical, physical, medical, pharmaceutical, or biological sciences and technology. For more information on submission deadlines, required documentation, and scholarship rules, visit the SCC website: www.scconline.org.

2022 NYSCC Events Calendar

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• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org March 23

Suppliers’ Day Preview Event: Ethical Sourcing and Biodiversity – At Home Live – Virtual Event

March 30

Clean Beauty – Minimalism in Formulation – Chart House, Weehawken, NJ

April 20

Skin and Hair Diversity – Seasons, Washington Township, NJ

April 26

Suppliers’ Day Preview Event: Green Formulations and Ingredients – At Home Live – Virtual Event

May 3-4

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

May 3

NYSCC Industry Awards Night – HK Hall, New York, NY

June 16

NYSCC Boat Trip – Atlantic Yachts, Weehawken, NJ

June 30

Natural Ingredients Symposium – Brooklyn Botanical Garden, Brooklyn, NY

July 25 August 9 August 13 September 8 September 29 October 12 November 10

NYSCC Golf Tournament – Crystal Springs Golf Course, Hamburg, NJ Environmental and Social Impacts of Cosmetic Products – At Home Live – Virtual Event NYSCC Fishing Trip – Atlantic Highlands, NJ Sunscreens – The Latest Updates and the Impact on the Environment – Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ NYSCC Culinary Event – Natirar, Peapack and Gladstone, NJ Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity, Social Progress, Circularity – Central Park Boathouse, New York, NY Scalp and Skin Microbiome – Novel Approaches to Formulate Gentle and Effective Products – Nanina’s in the Park, Belleville, NJ

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Clean Beauty – Minimalism in Formulation March 30, 2022 5:00 – 8:30 p.m.

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Chart House, Weehawken, NJ

he clean beauty movement is growing, and at this opportunistic time, the NYSCC is offering a symposium on clean beauty and minimalism on March 30th at the Chart House in Weehawken, NJ. Clean beauty implies that a product can be used without affecting the health of the consumer, based on its safety and toxicity profile. It also suggests transparency in the labeling of products and simplicity in the inclusion of ingredients. The definition of clean beauty does not necessarily imply the use of natural and organic ingredients, just that the raw materials are safe and have a good toxicological profile. Join us for this intellectually stimulating event to broaden your knowledge of clean beauty and minimalism.

Agenda:

5:00 – 5:15 p.m. Registration 5:15 – 5:30 p.m. Welcome Adress 5:30 – 5:45 p.m. First Speaker: Clean Beauty—Minimalism in Formulation • Giorgio Dell’Acqua (NYSCC Chair) 5:45 – 6:30 p.m. Cocktail Hour 6:30 – 7:00 p.m. Second Speaker: Glow Recipe’s Approach to Clean Beauty Skin Care • Mallory Goldberg (Glow Recipe) 7:00 – 8:30 p.m. Dinner and Third Speaker: Clean Beauty, a Business Development Perspective • Franca Zanovello (Zanovello Consultants) To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org). 4

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Speaker Abstracts and Biographies

Clean Beauty – Minimalism in Formulation Giorgio Dell’Acqua (NYSCC Chair)

fter years of complex cosmetic formulations, a new trend based on minimal ingredients with proven efficacy and safety is growing as part of the clean beauty movement. Consumer demand for clarity, simplicity, safety, and efficacy associated with a contained supply chain is driving the

growth.

n Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D. Giorgio Dell’Acqua is currently the Chief Scientific Officer at Nutrafol. He is also the 2022 Chair of the NYSCC. After obtaining his Ph.D. in Cell Biology in 1989, Giorgio worked for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research. Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 20 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. During his career, he directed R&D, science, and product development at multiple companies. He has helped bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market, has authored more than 80 publications in medicine and cosmetic science, holds 3 patents, and has been a keynote speaker on clean beauty, natural ingredients, and sustainability.

_______________________________

Glow Recipe’s Approach to Clean Beauty Skincare Mallory Goldberg (Glow Recipe)

earn how skincare brand Glow Recipe defines clean beauty and how they balance sensoriality and product experience with clinical effectiveness. We will also discuss how Glow Recipe approaches ingredient selection to focus on safety, minimalism, and sustainability.

n Mallory Goldberg

Mallory Goldberg is the Senior Director of Marketing at Glow Recipe, a clean, fruit-forward, global skincare brand. In her role, Mallory uses her deep understanding of product formulation, digital, and community to lead the brand’s marketing and product strategy. She has helped drive the go-to market approach for the brand’s clinically effective and category-breaking innovations, including the Allure Beauty Award winning Watermelon Glow Pink Dream Body Cream and the Tik-Tok viral Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dew Drops. Prior to Glow Recipe, Mallory worked for Korres Skincare and The Estée Lauder Companies, where she helped launch designer Michael Kors and Tory Burch’s fragrance and beauty lines.

Clean Beauty, a Business Development Perspective Franca Zanovello (Zanovello Consultants)

he U.S. beauty market continues to be a dominant player in global beauty, with clean and green being one of the most powerful growing segments, yet extremely challenging and competitive. We will share our experience and brand and business perspective, market overview, key attributes, and challenges in the U.S. market.

n Franca Zanovello

--- retail strategy, and brand management company specialized in clean beauty and wellness. For over 20 years, Franca has been growing sales and wholesale expansion across all major trade channels on the diverse U.S. market for both startups as well as emerging to global brands, including Acqua di Parma, Jurlique skincare, Kreyol Essence haircare, Loli skincare, and most recently Foria sexual wellness.

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History of Salicylic Acid

(continued from Page 1)

2000, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel for the FDA provided guidelines for the safe use of products containing beta-hydroxy acids (e.g., salicylic acid) by consumers. Salicylic acid has been shown to produce desquamation of the horny layer of skin while not effecting qualitative or quantitative changes in the structure of the viable epidermis.

Formulation Recommendations

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begins here. Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care. GO

When formulating clear, water-based solutions containing salicylic acid, the key consideration is solubilization. Salicylic acid can be solubilized using ethanol, glycols, and nonionic ethoxylated fatty alcohols. The pH of the formulation is also a critical factor since it dramatically affects both solubility and efficacy. When salicylic acid is formulated at 2% (w/w), at roughly pH 3, the best strategy is to solubilize it using 42% ethanol and isoceteth-20. Adding a material such as PEG-8/SMDI copolymer can be useful to increase the deposition of salicylic acid in the upper layers of the stratum corneum and to reduce skin irritation. Another consideration when formulating at pH 3 is to avoid using ester-based materials that can undergo hydrolysis. Salicylic acid formulations should contain a good chelating agent to prevent discoloration due to reactions with trace iron. Salicylic acid can also be formulated into alcohol-free, oil-in-water emulsions by first solubilizing it using an emollient, such as PPG-15 stearyl ether. This oil phase can then be emulsified into an aqueous gel containing acid-stable thickeners such as polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7 or polyquaternium-37.3

Concluding Remarks

Numerous topical cosmetic and OTC formulations containing salicylic acid as the active ingredient are on the market today. It is difficult to keep abreast of the diversity of formulation approaches used to produce these numerous products. However, the selection of a specific delivery system can have a significant influence upon product efficacy.

References

1. Making Cosmetics, Inc., Redmond, WA. 2. Food and Drug Administration; Over-the-Counter (OTC) Monograph M006: Topical Acne Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use; November 23, 2021. 3. G. Deckner; Salicylic acid: origins, formulation strategies, and delivery forms; Prospecter; https://knowledge.ulprospector.com; April, 8, 2016. ____________________________________________________________

About the Author

Paul Thau was employed at Cosmair/L’Oréal USA for over 22 years, during which time he served as Assistant Vice-President of Cosmetic R&D and then as Senior Research Fellow. His cosmetic industry experience spans more than fifty years and includes R&D positions at Revlon, Bristol-Myers, CIBA Pharmaceutical, and Warner-Lambert. Paul has served the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in many capacities including Chairman of the New York Chapter in 1971 and President of National in 1988. Later he was a member of the IFSCC Presidium and Scientific Committee. Paul is a Fellow of the SCC and holds fifteen U. S. patents. He was presented with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Maison de Navarre Award in 2005. From 1999 until 2014, Paul ran a cosmetic consulting company, PaCar Tech, which specialized in the areas of innovative product development, new cosmetic raw materials, technology transfer, and technology acquisition. Paul may be reached by e-mail (Pathau21@gmail.com) or mobile telephone (908-451-9558). 6

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In Memoriam – Janusz Jachowicz

PROTAMEEN

he SCC community mourns the loss of Janusz Jachowicz, who passed away on February 8, 2022. He was born on May 6, 1950, the eldest child of Danuta and Henryk Jachowicz in Pabianice, Poland. Janusz studied at Technical University of Lodz in Poland where he completed an M.S. degree in Chemical Engineering and Technology and Ph.D. in Chemistry. He moved to the United States in 1981 and completed post-doctoral work with Professor Herbert Morawetz at Brooklyn Polytechnic Institute (now the NYU Tandon School of Engineering). Janusz accepted a position as a Research Scientist at Clairol, Inc. in 1982, eventually becoming the Section Head of the Materials Science department. He remained at Clairol until 1994 when he joined International Specialty Products, Inc., where he played a key role in the development of new ingredients for the personal care industry. Dr. Jachowicz later founded the company Better Cosmetics, LLC conducting research in the area of peptide and protein chemistry. Janusz received numerous awards throughout his career for his outstanding research. He received the Polish Ministry of Education Award for his Ph.D. thesis (1981); J. Ciaudelli Award for the best paper published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science in 1991 and 2012; and SCC best presentation awards in 1993 and 1998. He was also garnered the SCC’s highest award, the Maison G. de Navarre Medal Award, for his outstanding contributions to the art and science of cosmetics. His innovations led to him receiving the prestigious Thomas Alva Edison Award. Dr. Jachowicz was an influential leader in the cosmetic science community where he served as a member of the Editorial Board of the Journal of Cosmetic Science, Publications Committee of IFSCC Magazine, and Committee on Scientific Affairs for the SCC. He was the author of over 70 publications and the inventor of 25 patents. Janusz also authored the text entitled, Analysis of Polymers for Cosmetics, which was published as a monograph by the IFSCC in 2005. Beside all of the great things Janusz achieved in his career, he was most known for his kindness and generosity. He was always interested in the lives and points of view of others and strived to learn the stories of those who touched his life. Janusz was a multi-talented person who spoke several languages and enjoyed traveling the world, photography, reading, playing tennis, and skiing. He is survived by his wife of thirty years, Jadwiga Jachowicz; three children [Tadeusz (spouse Elizabeth) of New York, Julia (spouse Faruk) of Virginia, and Marta (spouse Christine) of Michigan]; younger sister Joanna JachowiczJeszka of Lodz, Poland; and three grandchildren (Leon, Ruken, and Lukas). Janusz was a pilar of our industry and will be missed dearly by his friends and colleagues throughout the community. We wish him eternal peace and offer his family our most sincere condolences.

Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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Shaping tomorrow’s beauty through innovation and formulation expertise Explore what’s next with IMCD experts at imcdus.com.

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Skin and Hair Diversity April, 20, 2022 5:00 - 8:00 p.m. Seasons Washington Township, NJ

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Join us for an intellectually stimulating day chock-full of interesting facts and findings about the world of natural ingredients with respect to personal care products. This event will be held at the alluring Brooklyn Botanic Garden, a serene location connecting attendees with the plant world and fostering a sense of stewardship of the environment. In this first symposium of its kind, the NYSCC will have lectures and interactive sessions that address sustainability, biodiversity, green products, biodegradability, and many other aspects of natural ingredient science. Complimentary bus service will be provided from New Jersey to Brooklyn Botanic Garden. For more information, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org) or contact the Event Chair, Roger L. McMullen, at roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu. 12

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