Cosmetiscope April 2022 by NYSCC Webmaster

April 2022 • Vol. 28 • Issue 4

The Merits of Technology Surveillance and Technology Transfer as Tools for Identifying New Technologies Related to Personal Care Products

by Paul Thau

uring the last five years of my employment in the cosmetic industry, I was the U.S. representative for an international group involved with technology surveillance activities. Subsequently, I employed technology surveillance for several of my clients during ten years as a cosmetic industry consultant. Two relevant descriptions are as follows. Technology transfer is the process that universities and other research organizations use to translate research discoveries and scientific findings into new products, technologies, and other services that benefit the public. Technology transfer, also called transfer of technology, is the process of transferring (disseminating) technology from the person or organization that owns or holds it to another person or organization. Often, it occurs by a concerted effort to share skills, knowledge, technologies, manufacturing methods, samples, and facilities among the participants to ensure that scientific and technological developments are accessible to a wider range of users who can then further develop and exploit the technology into new products, processes, applications, materials, or services.

Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation (WARF)

Since its founding in 1925, WARF has helped steward the cycle of research, discovery, commercialization, and investment for University of Wisconsin – Madison. Through its patents and licensing efforts, WARF enables university innovations to advance. Among the numerous discoveries were irradiation of milk and the development of Warfarin from which the blood thinner Coumadin was devised.

Bayh–Dole Act

The Bayh–Dole Act, or Patent and Trademark Act Amendments, is United States legislation dealing with inventions arising from federal government-funded research. Sponsored by two senators, Birch Bayh of Indiana and Bob Dole of Kansas, the Act was adopted in 1980. This legislation was significant because it enabled universities to patent technologies even if the U.S. government contributed funds for some of the conducted research. This change stimulated many universities to establish technology transfer groups. It also enabled small businesses to own patents that arose from federal sponsorship.

America University Transfer Members (AUTM)

AUTM, founded in 1970, is the non-profit leader in efforts to educate, promote, and inspire professionals to support the development of academic research that changes the world and drives innovation forward. Their community is comprised of more than 3,000 members who work in more than 800 universities, research centers, hospitals, businesses, and government organizations around the globe. Technology transfer is concerned with: evaluating, protecting, and transferring intellectual property from the laboratory to (continued on Page 6)

SKIN & HAIR DIVERSITY: BRIDGING THE GAP BETWEEN R&D AND MARKETING ...see pages 4-5 for more information.

2022 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect Stacey House chair-elect@nyscc.org Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Alex Blakeman treasure-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Susanna Fernandes advisor@nyscc.org Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc.org

Letter from the Chair

…Giorgio Dell’Acqua

pring is here and I am definitely looking forward to all that this season has to offer! But first, I want to look back and thank my fellow presenters for pulling together the extraordinary and engaging program on “Clean Beauty and Minimalism.” Welcoming the largest in-person attendance since pre-pandemic times, this well-received monthly program at the Chart House took a deep dive into the clean beauty movement, from trends in formulations and ingredients to the retail space and the brand experience. As part of the AHLS webinar series we also held a “Suppliers' Day Preview Event: Ethical Sourcing and Biodiversity.” Our focus of getting back to science and sustainability this year seems to be resonating, and this session was a great pre-course for this year’s Suppliers’ Day themed “Your Destination for Science and Sustainability Sourcing Solutions.” Our next evening program, “Skin and Hair Diversity,” is on April 20th at Seasons, in Washington Township, NJ. This compelling topic will explore creating inclusive cosmetic products for a diverse consumer. This event is organized by the newly formed NYSCC Diversity and Inclusion committee. Please check this exciting initiative on our website and fill out the survey. A final Suppliers’ Day Preview webinar will take place on April 26th covering “Green Formulations and Ingredients” giving you a sneak peek into what will be discovered and discussed at our main event in May. I can’t believe that I am this far along in my tenure as Chair, and that the next Cosmetiscope issue will focus on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, taking place May 3-4, 2022 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. The show is the anchor of what has become known as “Beauty Week NYC.” Suppliers’ Day is poised to offer the most innovative solutions currently available across the globe and will feature more than 60 hours of conference sessions and curated educational programs, and 430+ exhibitors with attendees from all over the world. Specialty areas on the show floor include the Future Chemists Workshop, the Presentation Theater, as well as an INDIE 360 Pavilion and a new Technical Poster Showcase. If you haven’t registered to attend, you need to do so today. Review all that is happening on the Suppliers’ Day website and know, without a doubt, that this is the must-attend North American expo! I hope when I meet many of you at our diversity program in April, we will be enjoying spring weather and sunny days ahead! Until then, register for our upcoming programs, including Suppliers’ Day, and also encourage your colleagues to join the SCC if they aren’t already members. Our offerings have expanded, the networking is unmatched, and the influence on your career development is real! Scientifically yours,

By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com

NYSCC At Home Live Series…

Suppliers’ Day Preview Event: Green Formulations and Ingredients

Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com

April 26, 2022 • 11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

To register, go to the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com Social Media Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org 2

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Madam C.J. Walker Scholarship

About Madam C.J. Walker

Generously Sponsored by:

adam C. J. Walker (born Sarah Breedlove; 1867-1919) was an American entrepreneur, philanthropist, and political and social activist. She is regarded as the first female self-made millionaire in America. Walker made her fortune by developing and marketing a line of cosmetics and hair care products for black women through the business she founded, Madam C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company. She became known also for her philanthropy and activism. The Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Madam C.J. Walker Scholarship, generously sponsored by Mary Kay, signifies the SCC’s support of under-represented minorities pursuing higher education in STEM (science, technology, engineering, mathematics) disciplines related to the cosmetics and personal care industry. This scholarship is a part of the SCC’s commitment to diversity, equity, and inclusion.

Scholarship Description

Two scholarships, in the amount of $5,000 USD each (sponsored by Mary Kay), will be awarded to two under-represented minorities (Black/African American, Native/American Indian, and Latino/Hispanic American) pursuing an undergraduate or post-graduate degree in chemical, physical, medical, pharmaceutical, or biological sciences and technology. For more information on submission deadlines, required documentation, and scholarship rules, visit the SCC website: www.scconline.org.

2022 NYSCC Events Calendar

You need more information about our products? Please contact our subsidiary SILAB Inc.: email: silabinc@silabinc.com phone: 732-335-1030

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org

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April 20

Skin and Hair Diversity – Seasons, Washington Township, NJ

April 26

Suppliers’ Day Preview Event: Green Formulations and Ingredients – At Home Live – Virtual Event

May 3-4

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

May 3

NYSCC Industry Awards Night – Sony Hall, New York, NY

June 16

NYSCC Boat Trip – Atlantic Yachts, Weehawken, NJ

June 30

Natural Ingredients Symposium – Brooklyn Botanical Garden, Brooklyn, NY

July 25 August 9 August 13 September 8 September 29 October 12 November 8 December 13-14 TBD

NYSCC Golf Tournament – Crystal Springs Golf Course, Hamburg, NJ Environmental and Social Impacts of Cosmetic Products – At Home Live – Virtual Event NYSCC Fishing Trip – Atlantic Highlands, NJ Sunscreens – The Latest Updates and the Impact on the Environment – Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ NYSCC Culinary Event – Natirar, Peapack and Gladstone, NJ Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity, Social Progress, Circularity – Central Park Boathouse, New York, NY Scalp and Skin Microbiome – Novel Approaches to Formulate Gentle and Effective Products – Nanina’s in the Park, Belleville, NJ SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase – L.A. Live JW Marriott, Los Angeles, CA NYSCC Supports Education Night – Stay tuned for information

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Skin & Hair Diversity: Bridging the Gap Between R&D and Marketing

April 20, 2022 • 5:00 – 8:00 p.m. Seasons, Washington Township, NJ

arketing and Product Development take very different routes to achieve similar goals. Similarly, when creating inclusive products for a diverse consumer, both teams employ different strategies and approach the project from different perspectives. How do we bridge these two mindsets and ensure the marketing aligns with the data? Or that the data is representative of every consumer? Join us on April 20th as we bring a panel of industry experts in both Marketing and Technical to provide their insight into effective collaboration towards the common goal of products for a diverse and inclusive community, that meet their needs.

Agenda:

5:00 – 6:00 p.m. Cocktails and Networking 6:00 – 6:45 p.m. Panel Discussion 6:45 – 7:00 p.m. Break 7:00 – 8:00 p.m. Dinner and Panel Discussion To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

Speaker Biographies

n Crystal E. Porter, Ph.D.

Crystal is a hair scientist and owner of Mane Insights, Inc., a company that conducts research to further understand the specific needs of the hair and scalp of people of African descent. As a recognized contributor in the world of hair science, she also provides knowledge about hair to individuals, professionals, and industry leaders. She is passionate about debunking myths and empowering others to properly care for their hair. Her patented process uses science to help professionals understand their clients’ hair so they can provide customized solutions. Dr. Porter began her career in cosmetic science at Unilever in 2000. While 4

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there, she was part of the Measurement Science group and conducted research for aid-to-formulation. She spent the majority of her corporate career at L’Oréal, USA where she managed the Physics Laboratory and Consumer Insights teams studying the biophysical characteristics of hair and pigmented skin within different global ethnic groups and to understand behaviors that are related to consumers’ experiences. She has shared knowledge about ethnic hair with fellow scientists and the public sector at global venues. She also contributed to L’Oréal’s global classification of curl in hair and has authored scientific journals, presentations, and book chapters on various topics such as hair straightening and ethnic hair. Dr. Porter received her Bachelor’s degree in Biochemistry from Chicago State University. She participated in internship programs at Argonne National Laboratory where she studied chronobiology and researched NMR shift reagents at Rochester Institute of Technology. She attained her doctorate degree in the field of Physical Polymer Chemistry from the Missouri University of Science and Technology. During her graduate studies she thermally characterized polymer thin films using modulated differential scanning calorimetry and studied the mechanical behavior of polymer composites. She also patented a skin cream and was inducted into the scientific research honor society, Sigma Xi. Dr. Porter’s personal passion resides in the educating and mentoring of underrepresented youth about the opportunities in the field of science. She works with Chicago State University’s Center for STEM Education and Research to help develop research programs in hair science which expose underrepresented STEM students to research opportunities that will result in scientific breakthroughs. In addition, she actively initiates efforts within Chicagoland area schools and the general public to close the academic achievement gap that exists among Black students. As such, she is one of the founding members of P.A.T.H.S. (Parents and Administrators Together Helping Students), a parent group within Indian Prairie School District 204 whose mission is to work with school administrators to empower parents in helping their children to excel academically.

n Tonya Lane

Tonya Lane is a cosmetic chemist specializing in natural hair care and the creator of CurlyChemistry.com and Curly Chemistry YouTube channel which has over 9 million views. Tonya was born in New Jersey and currently resides in North Carolina where she received her Master’s degree in Chemistry from North Carolina Central University. With five years in the personal care industry, Tonya uses her experience, knowledge, and love for haircare to teach and provide the tools needed for women and men to get results with their hair care regimens and understand cosmetic ingredients based on their hair needs so they can save time and money.

n Jessica Ding

Jessica Ding is a material scientist turned marketer at Dow Personal Care. She is passionate about innovations and how they positively impact people and the planet. Jessica holds a Ph.D. degree in Polymer Chemistry and has experience in various segments since joining Dow in 2014, including Coatings, Leather, Construction Chemicals, and Personal Care.

w w w.validatedcs.com 400 Frank W. Burr Blvd. Suite 105 Glenpointe Atrium Teaneck, NJ 07666

n Mary Kay Crofoot

Mary Kay Crofoot is a technical service and development scientist at the Dow Chemical Company in Midland, Michigan. She is responsible for leading beauty and personal care product commercialization projects and the generation of the collateral, formulations, and application data to support the launches. She is also responsible for writing and implementing patents for new technologies. Mary Kay currently holds four Dow Chemical and six Dow Corning granted patents. In addition to project leadership, she currently supports beauty and personal care customers in Canada and the eastern region of North America through formulation development, product service, application testing, and training. She holds a B.S. in Chemistry from Central Michigan University. Previously, Mary Kay spent 24 years with Dow Corning. Her roles included research and development of silicone cure systems and synthesis of chemical vapor deposition precursors for the electronics industry.

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The Merits of Technology Surveillance and Technology Transfer

BEAUTY

the marketplace; corporate engagement; start-up and entrepreneurial support; and economic development. As a member of this organization from 1994-1998, I served as a representative from Cosmair/L’Oréal USA. When attending AUTM meetings, it was common for me to bring a list of topics of potential interest to R&D groups within our company’s organization. This was a great opportunity to learn about early-stage research projects at numerous universities.

Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care.

Licensing Executives Society International (LESI)

begins here.

(continued from Page 1)

LESI is an association of 33 national and regional member societies comprised of men and women who have an interest in the transfer of technology, or licensing of intellectual property rights—from technical know-how and patented inventions to software and other copyright material.

Nine Sigma

Nine Sigma enables clients to source innovative ideas, technologies, products, and services from outside their organizations, quickly and inexpensively, by connecting them to the best innovators from around the world. Their unique “Discover-Connect-Solve” approach is based upon the principles of open innovation. Their clients are able access the largest and most comprehensive open network of scientific researchers in the world to solve their scientific and business needs.

Benefits of Technology Transfer

1. Offers the potential to leverage internal R&D programs with external technology sources. 2. Organizations can move more rapidly into the development stage by forming partnerships. 3. Joint technology development yields results that neither group can achieve alone. 4. Participation in areas of technology beyond an organization’s expertise.

Useful Websites

1. www.sciencedaily.com 2. www.autm.net 3. www.uspto.gov 4. www.lesi.org 5. www.ninesigma.com

Concluding Remarks

Selective and discriminating use of technology surveillance and technology transfer by trained R&D staff members can serve to expand resources and enhance innovation in new product development. ____________________________________________________________

About the Author

Paul Thau was employed at Cosmair/L’Oréal USA for over 22 years, during which time he served as Assistant Vice-President of Cosmetic R&D and then as Senior Research Fellow. His cosmetic industry experience spans more than fifty years and includes R&D positions at Revlon, Bristol-Myers, CIBA Pharmaceutical, and Warner-Lambert. Paul has served the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in many capacities including Chairman of the New York Chapter in 1971 and President of National in 1988. Later he was a member of the IFSCC Presidium and Scientific Committee. Paul is a Fellow of the SCC and holds fifteen U. S. patents. He was presented with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Maison de Navarre Award in 2005. From 1999 until 2014, Paul ran a cosmetic consulting company, PaCar Tech, which specialized in the areas of innovative product development, new cosmetic raw materials, technology transfer, and technology acquisition. Paul may be reached by e-mail (Pathau21@gmail.com) or mobile telephone (908-451-9558). 6

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Careers in Cosmetic Chemistry Symposium

PROTAMEEN

April 30, 2022

St. John’s University, Queens, New York

his event is co-sponsored by the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC), New York Section of the American Chemical Society, and St. John’s University Student American Chemical Society Chapter. The event is open to all interested STEM students. Registration is available at: https://forms.gle/bxwAWJWk2kHqj6AB7.

Agenda:

10:00 – 10:15 a.m. Welcome

Supplier of specialty materials!

Tom Balsamides 375 Minnisink Road Totowa NJ Cell 201.207.0570 PROTAMEENTOMB@AOL.COM WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM

10:15 – 11:15 a.m. NYSCC Panel Presentation – Hot Topics in Cosmetic Chemistry 11:15 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Looking for a Different Career Path – Personal Care and Cosmetics Industry • Sue Feng, Ph.D. (CSO, ET Browne) 12:00 – 12:30 p.m. Coffee Break 12:30 – 1:30 p.m. NYSCC Panel Presentation on their Personal Careers in Cosmetic Chemistry – Q&A

Kamini Barot Sales Director - Americas

NYSCC Panel Presentation Team:

Yun Shao, Ph.D. (NYSCC Scientific Committee)

Amber Evans, Ph.D. (NYSCC Scientific Committee)

Speaker:

kbarot@orchidia.com (732) 353-9706 www.orchidia.com

Toussaint Jordan (NYSCC Scholarship Committee)

Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D. (NYSCC Chair)

Sue Feng, Ph.D. (CSO, ET Browne) For more information about the NYSCC or NY ACS, visit https://nyscc.org/ and http://newyorkacs.online/. In compliance with New York City Department of Health guidelines, people 12 and older are required to show proof they have received at least one dose of a COVID-19 vaccine in order to access the campus. Our COVID-19 planning and protocols are subject to the latest public health guidelines and may be modified as circumstances change. For the most up-to-date information, please visit https://www1.nyc.gov/site/coronavirus/index.page.

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Shaping tomorrow’s beauty through innovation and formulation expertise Explore what’s next with IMCD experts at imcdus.com.

Join us for an intellectually stimulating day chock-full of interesting facts and findings about the world of natural ingredients with respect to personal care products. This event will be held at the alluring Brooklyn Botanic Garden, a serene location connecting attendees with the plant world and fostering a sense of stewardship of the environment. In this first symposium of its kind, the NYSCC will have lectures and interactive sessions that address sustainability, biodiversity, green products, biodegradability, and many other aspects of natural ingredient science. Complimentary bus service will be provided from New Jersey to Brooklyn Botanic Garden. For more information, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org) or contact the Event Chair, Roger L. McMullen, at roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu. 10

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