Summer 2021 • Vol. 27 • Issue 6
Advances in Antioxidant Technology for Skin Care
I
…by Roger L. McMullen
n the the last two decades the role of antioxidants in skin the latest advances in antioxidant technology in the skin care arena. care has radically changed. In the early 2000s, it was typical to find finished formulas on the shelf that contained Skin Protection by Antioxidants from Natural Sources butylated hydroxy-toluene (BHT) or butylated hydroxyanisole Topical and oral administration of antioxidants for the (BHA), which were mostly added to enhance the shelf-life skin is still a very active field of research [1]. In the of the product. As time went on, formulas containing personal care industry and academia, a great deal of vitamin C and vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) became understanding has been accomplished in the area of more common since many studies carried out during that period demonstrated the invaluable benefits topical antioxidant treatments. There are a host of provided to the skin by these antioxidants. different molecules that have proven to be As the personal care industry entered the end efficacious for the protection of skin. Some of the of the first decade in the new millennium, naturally most commonly studied antioxidants for topical skin derived ingredients started to become more and treatment consist of ascorbic acid (vitamin C), alphamore common. Of course, most of these ingredients tocopherol (vitamin E), and catechins from green tea. were based on botanical ingredients, which are Some other popular ingredients include lycopene, chock-full of polyphenols and other ingredients with carotene, genistein, rutin, and caffeine [2]. antioxidant properties. Antioxidants have also become In recent years, most of the focus on new antioxidant key components of sunscreen formulas, as research product development has been in the botanical arena [1, 3, demonstrated unique benefits from the addition of antioxidants 4]. Phytochemicals are molecules that are produced by plants. in addition to any UV absorption properties. Further, a great deal Much effort has gone into understanding their antioxidant, antiof research has gone into delivery systems for antioxidants, which inflammatory, and anti-carcinogenic potential for skin care. There provide targeted delivery and stability for antioxidants. Nowadays, are several recent examples in the literature where the biological one can find antioxidants in just about every type of skin care activity (antioxidant properties) of botanical ingredients applied product in the marketplace. In this article, we will review some of to the skin or in cell culture is demonstrated (see Table 1). Table 1. Examples of studies utilizing botanical ingredients for the treatment of skin. Source Key Components Efficacy Measurements Reference Moringa oleifera Alpha-tocopherol, plant sterols, DPPH free radical scavenging assay; skin [5] seed oil and fatty acids hydration, erythema melanin values, and elasticity. Brown algae
Laminarin (polysaccharide)
Collagen fiber density, superoxide production, and expression of antioxidant enzymes in UVB-exposed murine skin.
[6]
Hibiscus syriacus L. (Malvaceae)
Anthocyanin-enriched polyphenols
UVB-induced apoptosis, endoplasmic reticulum stress, and mitochondrial reactive oxygen species in HaCaT keratinocytes.
[7]
Fermented Yak-Kong (a small black soybean)
Phenolic acids, isoflavones, and proanthocyanidins
Effect of UV exposure on: in vivo wrinkle [8] formation; MMP-1, AP-1, ERK1/2, and JNK1/2 activity in HaCaT keratinocytes; and degradation of collagen in a 3D skin model. (continued on Page 14)
N Y S C C
A N T I O X I D A N T
S Y M P O S I U M
...see pages 4-10 for more information.
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