Cosmetiscope June 2021 by NYSCC Webmaster

Summer 2021 • Vol. 27 • Issue 6

Advances in Antioxidant Technology for Skin Care

…by Roger L. McMullen

n the the last two decades the role of antioxidants in skin the latest advances in antioxidant technology in the skin care arena. care has radically changed. In the early 2000s, it was typical to find finished formulas on the shelf that contained Skin Protection by Antioxidants from Natural Sources butylated hydroxy-toluene (BHT) or butylated hydroxyanisole Topical and oral administration of antioxidants for the (BHA), which were mostly added to enhance the shelf-life skin is still a very active field of research [1]. In the of the product. As time went on, formulas containing personal care industry and academia, a great deal of vitamin C and vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) became understanding has been accomplished in the area of more common since many studies carried out during that period demonstrated the invaluable benefits topical antioxidant treatments. There are a host of provided to the skin by these antioxidants. different molecules that have proven to be As the personal care industry entered the end efficacious for the protection of skin. Some of the of the first decade in the new millennium, naturally most commonly studied antioxidants for topical skin derived ingredients started to become more and treatment consist of ascorbic acid (vitamin C), alphamore common. Of course, most of these ingredients tocopherol (vitamin E), and catechins from green tea. were based on botanical ingredients, which are Some other popular ingredients include lycopene, chock-full of polyphenols and other ingredients with carotene, genistein, rutin, and caffeine [2]. antioxidant properties. Antioxidants have also become In recent years, most of the focus on new antioxidant key components of sunscreen formulas, as research product development has been in the botanical arena [1, 3, demonstrated unique benefits from the addition of antioxidants 4]. Phytochemicals are molecules that are produced by plants. in addition to any UV absorption properties. Further, a great deal Much effort has gone into understanding their antioxidant, antiof research has gone into delivery systems for antioxidants, which inflammatory, and anti-carcinogenic potential for skin care. There provide targeted delivery and stability for antioxidants. Nowadays, are several recent examples in the literature where the biological one can find antioxidants in just about every type of skin care activity (antioxidant properties) of botanical ingredients applied product in the marketplace. In this article, we will review some of to the skin or in cell culture is demonstrated (see Table 1). Table 1. Examples of studies utilizing botanical ingredients for the treatment of skin. Source Key Components Efficacy Measurements Reference Moringa oleifera Alpha-tocopherol, plant sterols, DPPH free radical scavenging assay; skin [5] seed oil and fatty acids hydration, erythema melanin values, and elasticity. Brown algae

Laminarin (polysaccharide)

Collagen fiber density, superoxide production, and expression of antioxidant enzymes in UVB-exposed murine skin.

[6]

Hibiscus syriacus L. (Malvaceae)

Anthocyanin-enriched polyphenols

UVB-induced apoptosis, endoplasmic reticulum stress, and mitochondrial reactive oxygen species in HaCaT keratinocytes.

[7]

Fermented Yak-Kong (a small black soybean)

Phenolic acids, isoflavones, and proanthocyanidins

Effect of UV exposure on: in vivo wrinkle [8] formation; MMP-1, AP-1, ERK1/2, and JNK1/2 activity in HaCaT keratinocytes; and degradation of collagen in a 3D skin model. (continued on Page 14)

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2021 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Susanna Fernandes chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair-elect@nyscc.org Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc.org Secretary Leor Fay Tal secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Giorgino Macalino advisor@nyscc.org Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc.org By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com Social Media Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org

Letter from the Chair

…Susanna Fernandes

ello Summer! The NYSCC is literally walking on sunshine. So many exciting online programs and in-person events are planned and I can’t wait to finally meet my fellow members and cosmetic chemists in person. To make June a month to remember, our At Home Live series will address “Beyond Proteins” on June 17th, and explore their role in building functionality in formulations in the “hot” product categories of hair and skin. We end with an intensive “Antioxidant” symposium chaired by our very own Cosmetiscope editor, Roger McMullen. The on-demand content (7+ hours) begins on June 22nd, and is a world-class international program covering the many facets of personal care antioxidant technology and solutions to the disruptors, including CBD and antioxidant delivery systems. These antioxidant experts from academia, finished goods manufacturers, and suppliers will join together for a “Live” Q&A on June 29th. In July, we Celebrate Pride with a terrific panel chaired by Giorgino Macalino, which addresses formulation and marketing for inclusion and how to make an impact and connect with LGBTQ+ consumers. The discussion will include using the right pronouns and what the cosmetic industry looked like 10 years ago for LGBTQ+ members. This important webinar will provide valuable resources on how to navigate the cosmetic industry as a member of the LGBTQ+ community. Speakers on July 8th include members from Shiseido, Voyant Beauty, and more. On July 13th, CEW will be announcing the finalists of their prestigious Beauty Creators Awards. I am honored to be an ambassador of this program and can’t wait to hear this announcement as well as who will be selected as the eight finalists for the Supplier’s Award: Ingredients & Formulation category that we sponsor. Hear what piqued the judges interest in these finalists in a special webinar hosted by CEW and NYSCC on July 15th. I also can’t believe I am actually writing this: On July 26th we will meet in person at the beautiful Crystal Springs Resort in Hamburg for our popular Golf Tournament. The enthusiasm for this event is high and everyone is looking forward to socializing and networking. Rays of light are also shining brightly on Suppliers’ Day, which will be held on November 10th11th at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York City. I want to reiterate that this will be an IN-PERSON event and the show floor will be brimming with global ingredients and formulation innovators. The eagerness to meet face-to-face and be immersed in a week of beauty education, discovery, and business-building is contagious, and I can’t wait to walk through the Javits door and welcome our fellow industry colleagues. Suppliers’ Day will also have a virtual component on November 12th to reach the widest audience possible. Registration for Suppliers’ Day will open on June 30th and, if you are interested in presenting at the conference program, the portal to apply is open until June 30th as well. Stay tuned for exciting Suppliers’ Day programming and event updates. I wishing you a fun-filled and safe Summer. Don’t forget your sunscreen!

NYSCC Volunteers

s we prepare for the future, I would like to remind you that even during these unpredictable and challenging times, the NYSCC has remained a vibrant source of education and engagement. There is still time to be a part of this and make your mark in NYSCC history! As your Chair for 2021, I am in the midst of finalizing programming, special events, and awards programs. All of these events are conceptualized and brought to fruition by you, our members. Member volunteers gain incredible networking opportunities that span the globe while providing real value to their colleagues. If you have not already done so, I urge you to consider becoming a part of this incredible team! We are now accepting applications for volunteers: please click through and COMPLETE THE FORM to receive consideration for a volunteer position. After we review your application, we will contact you and arrange a call so together we can ascertain the best fit for you within our committees and future projects. Stay safe and I hopefully look forward to being with all of you soon! Susanna Fernandes, 2021 NYSCC Chair 2

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No. 6

NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium June 22nd

Content Available to Registrants

June 29th (11:30 a.m. - 12:30 p.m.) Live Q&A with Speakers

Event Chair:

Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. – Ashland Specialty Ingredients, G.P.

Speakers:

• Elisabetta Esposito, Ph.D. – University of Ferrara Lipid Nanostructures for Antioxidant Delivery • Ratan Chaudhuri, Ph.D. – Sytheon Ltd. Antioxidant to Omni Antioxidant: What a Difference One Acetyl Functionality Makes • Martina C. Meinke, Ph.D. – Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin Differences Between Smokers and Non-Smokers Including the Interaction of Endogenous and Exogenous Antioxidant System • Sudhir Baswan Ph.D. – Amway Corporation Therapeutic Potential of Cannabidiol (CBD) for Skin Health and Disorders • Paolo Giacomoni, Ph.D. – Insight Analysis Consulting In Vitro and In Vivo Effects of Vitamin E Before and After Exposure to UV • Olga Lopéz, Ph.D. – Institute of Advanced Chemistry of Catalonia A Biomimetic Delivery System for Stabilization, Transport, and Release of Antioxidants in the Skin • Elodie Oger, Ph.D. – Ashland Specialty Ingredients, G.P. PSR™ (Plant Small RNA) Technology – An Innovative Eco-Conscious Extraction Process 4

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The first 100 registrants will receive a hardback edition of the book Antioxidants and the Skin, 2nd ed., CRC Press.

BEAUTY

begins here. Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care.

Speaker Abstracts and Biographies

Event Chair – Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. Ashland Specialty Ingredients, G.P., Bridgewater, New Jersey, USA r. Roger McMullen has over 20 years of experience in the personal care industry with specialties in optics, imaging, and spectroscopy of hair and skin. Currently, he is a Principal Scientist at Ashland Specialty Ingredients, G.P. and leads the Material Science team in the Measurement Science department. Roger has over 30 publications in peer-reviewed journals and textbooks. He is also the author of Antioxidants and the Skin, 2nd edition and founded the online news magazine The Cosmetic Chemist. Roger received a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and completed his Ph.D. in Biophysical Chemistry at Seton Hall University. Roger actively engages and participates in educational activities in the personal care industry. He frequently teaches continuing education courses for the SCC and TRI-Princeton. In addition, Roger is an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University and teaches Biochemistry to students pursuing M.S. degrees in Cosmetic Science and Pharmaceutical Chemistry. Prior to pursuing a career in science, Roger served in the U.S. Navy for four years on board the USS YORKTOWN (CG 48). He is fluent in Spanish and Catalan and currently is learning to play the classical guitar. ___________________________________________________________________________

Nanoparticulate Systems for Caffeic Acid Delivery Through the Skin: A Comparative Study

Elisabetta Esposito, Ph.D. University of Ferrara, Ferrara, Italy

igarette smoke is responsible of multiple, highly diverse effects on human health, including tumors and noncancerous lung diseases, as well as mucocutaneous ailments, precocious skin aging, chronic dermatoses, and skin cancer. Indeed, cigarette smoke components affect cellular redox hemostasis and induce skin inflammation. In this respect, the administration of antioxidants onto the skin represents an approach to restore homeostasis, thus preventing ROS-mediated disorders. Caffeic acid is a naturally occurring hydroxycinnamic acid amply present in coffee, fruits, plants, oils, grapes, and tea that can be considered a strong antioxidant due to different mechanisms, such as radical scavenging activity and inhibition of lipid peroxidation. Notwithstanding its antioxidant potential, the cutaneous administration of caffeic acid is hampered by its low solubility and scarce stability. The idea at the basis of this study is the possibility to apply caffeic acid on the skin to counteract pathologies and disorders induced by cigarette smoke. To this aim, nanotechnological formulations were considered to solubilize caffeic acid and control its delivery while prolonging its antioxidant action. Namely, caffeic acid was encapsulated within solid-lipid nanoparticles and ethosomes. The effect of lipid matrix was evaluated on morphology and size distribution of solid-lipid nanoparticles and ethosomes loaded with caffeic acid. Particularly, morphology was investigated by cryogenic transmission electron microscopy, while mean diameters were evaluated by photon correlation spectroscopy. (continued on Page 6)

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Surface Treated Pigments

Silicone Hybrid Fluids

(continued from Page 5)

The antioxidant power was evaluated by the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl methodology. Since solidlipid nanoparticles and ethosome dispersions do not possess the adequate viscosity for skin permeation, they were thickened with poloxamer 407, a copolymer constituted of poly(oxyethylene)-poly(oxypropylene) units characterized by thermogelling properties, resulting in final nanoparticulate semi-solid forms. The influence of the type of nanoparticulate system on caffeic acid diffusion was evaluated using Franz cell methodology with a nylon membrane. Finally, an irritation patch test conducted on 20 human volunteers demonstrated that both ethosomes and solid-lipid nanoparticles can be safely applied on the skin.

n Elisabetta Esposito, Ph.D.

For more information email TechPCS@gelest.com TechPCS@gelest.com

Dr. Elisabetta Esposito obtained her undergraduate university degree in Pharmaceutical Chemistry and Technology at University of Ferrara, Ferrara, Italy in 1991. From 1993 to 1997 she completed her Ph.D. in Pharmaceutical Sciences in the Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology of the Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences at Ferrara University under the supervision of Prof. Claudio Nastruzzi. In 1997, she defended and completed her thesis on the subject of "Microparticulate and Semisolid Systems for Controlled Release of Drugs" at the University of Pavia (Italy). From 1998 to 2018 she worked in the Pharmaceutical Technology laboratories of the University of Ferrara as Research Fellow. In 2017, she obtained an award of the National Scientific Qualification as Full Professor. In 2018, she became Researcher in Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Chemical and Pharmaceutical Sciences of the University of Ferrara. She is a member of the Cosmetology Centre and Ph.D. Board for the Doctorate in Chemical Sciences program at the University of Ferrara. She is a member of the editorial boards of the journals: Cosmetics and Journal of Biomedical Nanotechnology. Since 2018, Elisabetta Esposito has been a lecturer at the University of Ferrara. Her main research focus is the production and characterization of nanoparticulate formulations for topical administration of natural drugs, such as solidlipid nanoparticles, ethosomes, liposomes, cubosomes, and organogels, for the treatment of cutaneous pathologies and disorders. Elisabetta Esposito has published 140 articles in peer-reviewed international scientific journals, 130 of them indexed on Scopus. She is editor of three special journal issues: Bioactive Molecules from Vegetable Sources for the Treatment of Cutaneous Pathologies and Disorders – Parts 1 and 2 in Current Pharmaceutical Design (2019); and Lipid Nanostructures for Antioxidant Delivery in Antioxidants (20202021). In addition, she is the coinventor and coauthor of 3 European patents, 73 congress contributions and 12 publications in books. ___________________________________________________________________________

Antioxidant to Omni Antioxidant: What a difference One Acetyl Functionality Makes!

Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Ph.D. Sytheon, Boonton, New Jersey, USA

ntioxidants must neutralize diverse types of reactive oxygen species (ROS) with different chemical structures and reactivities, which include both free radicals and non-radicals. Conventional antioxidants typically show high reactivity toward free radicals with unpaired electrons (e.g., –• HO , ROO•), which they neutralize via donation of a hydrogen atom (H•) to restore them back to their more stable chemical form. However, the additional need to neutralize other highly reactive non-radical ROS (e.g., 1O2, ONOO–) confer new structural requirements on antioxidants to endow them with broader and more effective capabilities. Acetyl zingerone is structurally related to zingerone, a naturally occurring phenolic alkanone found in ginger. It was designed for improved stability and broader antioxidant function. Using a combination of in vitro chemical reactions and cell-based assays under stress from UV radiation, blue light, or urban dust particulate matter, we chronicled the multiple ways by which acetyl zingerone as a single ingredient could help manage excess ROS levels that develop within skin from daily exposure to environmental stressors. Immediate treatment of melanocytes with acetyl zingerone after UVA irradiation signiﬁcantly inhibited ongoing formation of delayed cyclobutane dimers, while incubation with acetyl zingerone in keratinocytes before UVA exposure significantly decreased ROS formation, confirming that acetyl zingerone does not behave as a photosensitizer. Compared with alpha-tocopherol, 6

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acetyl zingerone exhibited signiﬁcantly better photostability and efﬁcacy to neutralize free radicals, physically quench singlet oxygen, and scavenge peroxynitrite. These results suggest mechanisms by which acetyl zingerone improves upon the core molecular structure of zingerone to effectively bolster the synthesis of extracellular matrix components in the dermis. We have further demonstrated clinically that acetyl zingerone improves the signs of facial photoaging and maintains skin microbiome diversity following daily application of a lotion containing 1% (w/w) acetyl zingerone over an 8-week period compared with its placebo lotion. A serious gap exists in providing true long-lasting skin photoprotection. This research takes a holistic approach towards designing a new multifunctional compound, defining relevant targets, and clinically demonstrating its utility to elevate skin defenses prior to UV exposure and reverse the visible signs of photoaging. Multifunctional targeting of several endpoints provides better chances of delivering true skin benefits, in sharp contrast to the one-product (mostly undefined extract) one-target dogma that currently permeates the cosmetic industry.

n Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Ph.D.

Ratan is President and CEO of Sytheon, which he founded in 2006. Sytheon is an innovative global specialty ingredient company with annual growth of 25 to 50% (www.sytheonltd.com). Sytheon is headquartered in the U.S. with a branch office in France and plans to establish an Asian branch office in Singapore. Ratan is an entrepreneur by heart and a strategic thinker with strong leadership skills. He has developed numerous simple yet unique best-in-class products for the personal care industry. Ratan holds over 100 U.S. and international patents and is the author of over 80 publications and six book chapters. Recently, Ratan has delved into developing pharmaceutical products related to autoimmune diseases, such as multiple sclerosis, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis, and established Symbionyx Pharmaceuticals to bring these products to market through alliance. Additionally, Ratan has demonstrated a multi-targeted edible product class having potential for COVID-19 relief and filed two U.S. and international patents. A clinical trial protocol is currently being developed. Prior to starting Sytheon, Ratan held technical management positions at EMD Chemicals (Merck KGaA) and ISP in the USA. ___________________________________________________________________________

Effect of Cigarette Consumption on the Antioxidant Status in Blood and Skin

Martina C. Meinke, Ph.D. Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin

xidative stress is expressed by an increased concentration of free radicals promoting an imbalance between the body’s antioxidant (AO) defense system and reactive metabolites. Cigarette smoking is a widespread habit. During cigarette smoking 1015 – 1017 free radicals per puff are produced, enhancing oxidative stress related diseases. In our study, the impact of cigarette smoking on the cutaneous AO system was investigated and compared with its impact on the blood plasma. To broaden the knowledge about the synergistic interaction between endogenous AOs and those ingested with food (exogenous AOs), the basic and defined impact of one cigarette consumption on the cutaneous AO system was investigated on moderate (<10 cigarettes/day) and strong smokers (>10 cigarettes/day). Nonsmokers served as the control group. EPR spectroscopy was used to determine the cutaneous AO status noninvasively by studying radical scavenging activity. Using resonant Raman spectroscopy, the concentration of cutaneous and blood carotenoids was recorded. To investigate the levels of the endogenous AO, glutathione (GSH) from the skin and blood plasma was analyzed. In blood, the additional expression of selected stress-associated genes was determined. The cutaneous AO system of smokers is fundamentally different than that of nonsmokers. The level of exogenous AOs correlates negatively with the consumption of cigarettes in blood and skin. In contrast, the cutaneous radical scavenging activity in smokers correlates positively, which can be explained by a significant increase in GSH, in part due the body’s own protective mechanisms. The (continued on Page 8)

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protective effect is less visible in blood but the blood antioxidants respond to definite stress induction 4 hours after smoking two cigarettes, where no effects were observed in skin. The increased endogenous AO status in the skin serves to maintain the general redox homeostasis and acts as a “buffer system.” For the first time a negative correlation between the gene expression of AKR 1C1 (aldo-ketoreductase 1, activated by NRF2) and the cytokine IL-22, which has antimicrobial, regenerative, and antioxidant effects on the epithelium and liver could be shown. It remains to be investigated whether AKR 1C1 could be applied as a biomarker for an imbalance in the redox homeostasis.

n Martina C. Meinke, Ph.D.

Dr. Meinke is a professor at the Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology of the Department. of Dermatology, Venerology, and Allergology, Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin since April 2016. She studied chemistry at the Free University of Berlin and completed her Ph.D. in 1994 with a research stay at the University of Sherbrooke, Québec, Canada. Afterwards she managed a laboratory for environmental analysis until 1999. Then she changed her career path to the medical diagnostics field working at the Department of Dermatology of Charité and the Laser- und Medizin-Technologie Berlin. In 2006, she finished her postgraduate studies in Medical Physics and since 2007 she has been an assistant professor at the Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin. Her research fields are optical and spectroscopic methods to determine skin physiological parameters. One main focus is the interaction of light and skin. Since October 2020, she has been the Head of the Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology at the Department of Dermatology, Venerology, and Allergology. ___________________________________________________________________________

Therapeutic Potential of Cannabidiol (CBD) for Skin Health and Disorders

Sudhir Baswan, Ph.D. Amway Corporation, Ada, Michigan, USA

hough there is limited research confirming the purported topical benefits of cannabinoids, it is certain that cutaneous biology is modulated by the human endocannabinoid system (ECS). Receptors from the ECS have been identified in the skin and systemic abuse of synthetic cannabinoids, and their analogs, have also been associated with the manifestation of dermatological disorders, indicating the effects of the ECS on cutaneous biology. In particular, cannabidiol (CBD), a nonpsychoactive compound from the cannabis plant, has garnered significant attention in recent years for its anecdotal therapeutic potential for various pathologies, including skin and cosmetic disorders. This talk will capture the current state of topical cannabinoid research specifically focused on CBD.

n Sudhir Baswan, Ph.D.

Dr. Sudhir Baswan is a Senior Open Innovation Scientist in the New and Disruptive Innovations group at Amway Corporation. He holds a Bachelor's degree in Pharmacy from University of Mumbai; Masters in Cosmetic Science from Fairleigh Dickinson University; and Ph.D. in Pharmaceutical Sciences from the University of Cincinnati. In his current role at Amway, Dr. Baswan is involved in various aspects of new technology discovery including development and commercialization in the beauty, nutrition, and wellness space. Dr. Baswan is also an editorial board member of Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology and Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigative Dermatology. Dr. Baswan is also the founder of foodforskin.org, which focuses on bringing snackable and scientific, yet consumer-friendly, content to beauty and wellness enthusiasts. ___________________________________________________________________________

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Skin, UV, and Vitamin E

Paolo Giacomoni, Ph.D. Insight Analysis Consulting, Brownsboro, Alabama, USA pon absorption of ultraviolet radiation, a photosensitizer can transfer a charge to molecular oxygen, thus generating the superoxide ion (O2•–), or can transfer energy to molecular oxygen resulting in the production of singlet oxygen (1O2). Superoxide ion can react with nitric oxide • (NO ) to produce peroxynitrite (ONOO−), and can trigger a lipid peroxidation cascade. Singlet oxygen also can trigger a lipid peroxidation cascade. Vitamin E is a scavenger of superoxide and peroxynitrite, and is an inhibitor of the lipid peroxidation cascade. Ultraviolet radiation (UVA and UVB) provokes chromatin fragmentation, cytoskeletal damage, and cell blebbing in A431 cells as well as in cultured normal human keratinocytes. When vitamin E is added before and/or after exposure to UV (UVA or UVB) the fraction of apoptotic cells (with fragmented chromatin) as well as damaged (blebbing) cells is dramatically reduced. Vitamin E rescues damaged and apoptotic cells even when added up to 7 hours after exposure to UV. In human epidermis in vivo, UV light from a solar simulator provokes blebbing and spongiosis. The presence of vitamin E during exposure to UV radiation from a solar simulator abrogates spongiosis.

n Paolo Giacomoni, Ph.D.

Dr. Paolo Giacomoni is currently the Head of R&D at L-Raphael (Geneva, Switzerland). He is a technical leader with over 25 years of experience in product R&D for cosmetic product providers. He served as Chief Scientific Officer of Elan Rose International and as Vice-President of Skin Care World Wide R&D with Herbalife. He was Executive Director, R&D with Estée Lauder and served as scientific spokesperson for Clinique. During his tenure at L’Oréal he served as Head of the Department of Biology and then as scientific attaché to the Director of Applied Research. Dr. Giacomoni is currently Editor-in-Chief of the Journal of Cosmetic Science. He completed his Master’s Degree in Atomic Physics at the University of Milano, Milano, Italy. Later, he received his Ph.D. in Biochemistry from University of Paris, Paris, France. He completed post-doctoral training at: Deutsches Krebsforschungszentrum, Heidelberg, Germany; University of Wisconsin, Madison, Wisconsin, USA; and University of California, San Diego, California, USA. Dr. Giacomoni was one of the founders of the European Society for Photobiology as well as the European Network for the Study of the Biology of Aging. He has authored 100+ publications and patents in Biochemistry, Molecular Biology, and Biology of Aging, focusing on DNA damage and metabolic impairment induced by UV radiation as well as on the positive effects of antioxidants. ___________________________________________________________________________

A Biomimetic Delivery System for Stabilization, Transport, and Release of Antioxidants in the Skin

Olga López, Ph.D. Institute of Advanced Chemistry of Catalonia, Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain

xcessive exposure of the skin to UV-vis and IR rays leads to the formation of free radicals (FR) and to the degradation of the proteins of the skin’s extracellular matrix. These are the main causes of premature skin ageing and of a number of skin diseases. The skin innate defense mechanism works actively by quenching FR but if the amount of FR increases significantly, the natural antioxidant defense system is not enough to neutralize them. Supporting the skin with antioxidants can reduce the formation of FR. However, the limitation of the topical supply of antioxidants resides on the instability of these molecules that quickly lose their protective effects. Additionally, in order to obtain efficacy, the applied antioxidants need to target skin layers where the FR are formed. This is also a challenge due to the strong barrier function of the skin that hinders penetration into the cutaneous tissue. This study proposes a lipid system able to protect carotene molecules from degradation and to deliver them into the deep epidermis, where FR are mainly formed. The structure of this system that (continued on Page 10)

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Kamini Barot Sales Director - Americas kbarot@orchidia.com (732) 353-9706 www.orchidia.com

NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium

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mimics epidermal lamellar bodies allows an interaction mechanism with the skin providing targeted delivery of the antioxidant and long-lasting benefits while reinforcing the lipid matrix. Treatment with this advanced lipid system containing carotenes protects skin collagen from degradation induced by IR radiation and exerts a FR scavenging effect in different situations of UV-vis and IR exposure. Additionally, our lipid delivery system activates a DNA protective effect against UV radiation and shows a repairing effect on cell membrane damage.

n Olga López, Ph.D.

Dr. López has a Ph.D. in Chemistry. She is Scientific Researcher in the Institute of Advanced Chemistry of the Spanish National Research Council (IQAC-CSIC) and co-founder of the company Bicosome. Dr. López has over 25 years research experience in lipid systems and their dermatological and cosmetic applications. Her scientific proposals consider biophysical, biochemical, physical-chemical, and technological aspects applied to biological substrates with strong lipid involvement and focused on applications for the improvement of health. She has addressed the knowledge and adaptation of high-resolution technologies to apply them properly in the study of colloidal systems and biological tissues. Dr. López has participated in a number of R + D + i projects, published 130 articles in scientific journals, directed nine doctoral theses, and authored several patents. ___________________________________________________________________________

PSR™ (Plant Small RNA) Technology – An Innovative Eco-Conscious Extraction Process

Elodie Oger, Ph.D. Ashland Specialty Ingredients, G.P.

lants need to combat environmental stresses to ensure their development and reproduction. They cannot move or escape uncomfortable situations as other living beings. The resistance and capacity of survival of plants is supported by fine epigenetic regulation such as small RNAs that can rapidly regulate their gene expression and enable adaptation to environmental conditions. Resistance of plants to environmental stresses is also highly dependent on their antioxidant properties. The adaptation of plants, and the involvement of small RNAs, inspired an innovative sustainable process to develop new biofunctionals. Indeed, a new extraction process called PSR™ (Plant Small RNA) Technology was developed to capture the benefits and epigenetic potential of plants. This process allows obtention of small RNA rich plant extracts that also contain a wide range of bioactive phytocompounds. PSR™ Technology is an aqueous-based extraction process using no hazardous substances and producing only vegetal waste. The PSR™ Technology was designed and customized for different botanical species and different parts of plants, such as roots, leaves, fruits, seeds, or flowers. PSR™ Technology extracts have been evaluated for their antioxidant properties compared to conventional plant extracts. Results demonstrated that the plant extracts obtained by PSR™ Technology show superior antioxidant effects.

n Elodie Oger, Ph.D.

Dr. Elodie Oger holds a Bachelor’s degree in Cellular Biology and Physiology from the University of Nice – Sophia Antipolis (Nice, France). Then she obtained a Master’s degree in Proteomics from the University of Lille (Lille, France). Later, she obtained her Ph.D. in Plant Biotechnology with a Marie Curie European position from the University of Turin (Turin, Italy). She completed post-doctoral training at the National French Institute of Agronomy and Environment (Sophia Antipolis, France). With over 15 years of experience in biotechnology and plant physiology research and 8 years of product development in personal care at Ashland, she currently is a team leader of the Innovative Technology and of New Product Development team at Ashland in Sophia Antipolis, France. Her team is involved in the development new biofunctionals based on innovative, sustainable technology. Elodie has authored and coauthored many peer-reviewed publications and holds international patents. 10

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NYSCC At Home Live Series

Omya Consumer Goods omyakinetik.com

Worldwide experts of specialty personal care ingredients. Leading global producer of functional minerals.

D C

Beyond Proteins

562-961-3333 PersonalCareUS@omya.com

June 17, 2021 • 11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

iscover the role of hydrolyzed proteins for skin and hair. Based on the latest trend and consumer insights, we’ll discuss how to choose the right protein for building functionality in your formulations.

Speaker Biography

n Carolina Denman – TRI-K Indfustries arolina Denman is the Senior Innovation Manager at TRI-K Industries, a leading manufacturer of specialty Ingredients. She manages the company’s innovation process as well as its application and formulation laboratory. Carolina has more than 14 years of experience formulating proteins and other actives in skincare, personal care, hair care, and color cosmetics, creating cuttingedge products for major multinational brands as well as the fast-growing indie beauty segment. She has a Bachelor’s degree in Biology from Montclair State University and a Master’s degree in Pharmaceutical Science with a focus on Cosmetic Chemistry from the University of Cincinnati.

Madam C.J. Walker Scholarship

About Madam C.J. Walker

Generously Sponsored by:

adam C. J. Walker (born Sarah Breedlove; 1867-1919) was an American entrepreneur, philanthropist, and political and social activist. She is regarded as the first female self-made millionaire in America. Walker made her fortune by developing and marketing a line of cosmetics and hair care products for black women through the business she founded, Madam C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company. She became known also for her philanthropy and activism. The Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Madam C.J. Walker Scholarship, generously sponsored by Mary Kay, signifies the SCC’s support of underrepresented minorities pursuing higher education in STEM (science, technology, engineering, mathematics)–disciplines related to the cosmetics and personal care industry. This scholarship is a part of the SCC’s commitment to diversity, equity, and inclusion.

Scholarship Description

Two scholarships, in the amount of $5,000 USD each (sponsored by Mary Kay), will be awarded to two under-represented minorities (Black/African American, Native/American Indian, and Latino/Hispanic American) pursuing an undergraduate or post-graduate degree in chemical, physical, medical, pharmaceutical, or biological sciences and technology. For more information on submission deadlines, required documentation, and scholarship rules, visit the SCC website: www.scconline.org.

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EMBRACING EMBRA CING BEA BEAUTY UTY A Celebration of What We Create

SUPPLIERS’’ DDAY SUPPLIERS AY 20 2021 21 NO NOVEMBER VEMBER 10-11 10-11 | VIRTUAL VIRTUAL DAY: DAY: NOVEMBER NOVEMBER 12 JACOB JACOB K. J JAVITS AVITS CONVENTION CONVENTION CENTER | NEW YORK YORK CITY

DETAILS, FOR FULL DET TAILS, AILS, VISIT V WWW.NYSCC.ORG/SUPPLIERS-DAY W WW.NYSCC.ORG/SUPPLIERS-DAY

SUPPLIERS’ DAY MAKES IT HAPPEN IN NYC & VIRTUALLY AROUND THE WORLD 12

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NYSCC Focuses on the Future Formulation Expert!

hile providing education and engagement for our members and the cosmetic chemistry community at large is paramount to our mission, equally important is engaging and empowering those who will be the future force of the industry. The 2021 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day event will be the epicenter for these next generation leaders with programs designed that allow them to envision their future. Here’s an overview of what’s planned:

Future Chemists Workshop (FCW)

A staple at Suppliers’ Day in New York City, the FCW provides an interactive learning and challenge based environment for university students and leaders of tomorrow. Our goal is to host and instruct approximately 50 university students from chapters across the U.S. in a safe and compliant real-life lab experience. This is scheduled to take place on Day 1 of Suppliers’ Day – November 10, 2021.

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Mentor-Mentee Icebreaker and Mixer

This event brings students from the FCW, as well as NYSCC student members, together with seasoned industry professionals to highlight and reinforce the professional development programs offered at Suppliers’ Day and throughout the year by the NYSCC. The committee spearheading this program will also introduce the sophisticated database which will match mentors and mentees while fostering interaction through fun, thoughtprovoking icebreakers. This is scheduled to take place over breakfast on Day 1 of Suppliers’ Day – November 10, 2021.

SCC Career Day

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day will join forces with National SCC to complete this trifecta of offerings. Details are still being finalized, but topping off the activities for junior members of the SCC at large will be an opportunity to meet significant stakeholders of the cosmetics and personal care industry who will come together to share information on what the industry needs from its future workforce. During the event, information will also be presented by academia and corporate professionals providing attendees with vital information on how to take the next step in their cosmetic science career.

Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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High Performance Ingredients for Skin and Hair Care

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Advances in Antioxidant Technology for Skin Care

(continued from Page 1)

In some cases, natural ingredients have a limited shelf life or are not stable in different formulation chassis. As such, synthetic ingredients are often inspired by nature. A recent example in the personal care industry is acetyl zingerone, which is structurally similar to zingerone found in the root of the ginger plant, Zingiber officinale [9]. Aguirre-Cruz et al. recently demonstrated the antioxidant potential of peptides, specifically hydrolyzed collagen, to protect the skin from environmental stress [10]. The precise mechanism in which peptides act as antioxidants is not known; however, proton (or electron) donation is suspected to play a role. In the last decade a tremendous amount of research has been conducted to determine the benefits of molecules from cannabis—a genus of plants from the cannabaceae family. There are a number of phytocannabinoids that have been identified from the hemp plant; however, cannabidiol (CBD) is one of the most studied molecules. Baswan et al. provide a comprehensive review of work conducted in relation to the topical treatment of skin with CDB [11]. It was proposed that CDB has potential to treat eczema, psoriasis, pruritis, and inflammatory conditions. In addition to topical application, antioxidants and other essential nutrients obtained through the diet (oral consumption) play an integral role in the health state of the skin. This is especially true in regard to moisturization, care of aging skin, and protection against the effects of UV radiation. Many of these key dietary components consist of: omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids; vitamins A, C, and E; carotenoids; polyphenols; and selenium, zinc, and copper [12].

Antioxidant Delivery Systems

Some of the challenges with the conventional delivery of antioxidants stems from their poor solubility, limited shelf-life stability, compromised photostability, and low degree of skin permeability. Delivery systems enhance the ability of antioxidants to carry out their biological function. Various types of emulsion, vesicular, lipid particle, nanoparticle, and nanocarrier systems have been studied and developed in recent years to aid in the stabilization and delivery of antioxidants to the skin. Emulsions are dispersions of oil and water and can refer to microemulsions, nanoemulsions, and Pickering emulsions. Vesicular systems consist of liposomes, phytosomes, transferomes, ethosomes, and niosomes. Liposomes are the most popular vesicular system used in personal care applications and are composed of concentric layers of phospholipid bilayers spherically shaped with a hollow center for the active ingredient. Barba and coworkers developed nanoliposomes containing vitamin D3, vitamin K2, vitamin E, and curcumin for topical delivery [13]. On their own, these ingredients are unstable and do not penetrate into the skin very well. Lipid particle systems consist of lipid microparticles and lipid nanoparticles. A recent study showed the utility of caffeic acid lipid nanoparticulate systems for applications in skin [14]. Nanoparticles and nanocarriers continue to be at the forefront of skin care research for their potential at stabilizing and delivering antioxidants to the skin. For example, gold nanoparticles are known for their anti-inflammatory, antiaging, and wound healing properties in skin care [15, 16]. Nanoencapsulation is another area that shows promise for the delivery of lipid soluble antioxidants to the skin [17].

Sunscreen Technologies Based on Antioxidants

Exposure of skin to UV radiation can cause direct damage to cellular DNA by crosslinking (UVB) or indirect DNA damage caused by photosensitization reactions (UVA). Photosensitization can occur due to the presence of endogenous (e.g., chromophores in proteins) or exogenous (e.g., UVA sunscreens) species in/on the skin. Almost twenty years ago, Hanson and Clegg demonstrated that sunscreen photoprotection could be enhanced if antioxidants were included in the formula [18]. This has become such an important area of research that the Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology has recently 14

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announced that it will dedicate a special issue to the topic of endogenous photosensitizers and their roles in skin photodamage and photoprotection. The majority of commercial sunscreen formulas contain antioxidants [1]. In part, this is due to the popularity of including botanical ingredients in skin care products. However, the presence of antioxidant species can ameliorate damage caused during and after sun exposure by reactive oxygen species. A recent review by Giacomoni presents this case in relation to the activity of molecules capable of impeding the damaging effects of superoxide anion and singlet oxygen [19].

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Concluding Remarks

In the last several years, there has been significant progress in the scientific understanding of antioxidant treatment of the skin. Everly increasing numbers of studies of new ingredients continue to appear in the literature. Hopefully, in the years to come there will be some type of method harmonization across institutes and industry to more uniformly characterize antioxidant behavior from the vast array of botanical ingredients. Many antioxidants are unstable or not easily bioavailable after treatment. To circumvent these challenges, antioxidant delivery systems have been developed and show much promise in the future. Finally, antioxidants play an integral role in sun protection. They are incorporated into sunscreen formulas for their ability to ameliorate damage induced by reactive oxygen species resulting from exposure to UV radiation. ___________________________________________________________________________

References

1. McMullen, R., Antioxidants and the Skin. 2nd ed. 2019, Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press. 2. Azevedo Martins, T.E., C.A. Sales de Oliveira Pinto, A. Costa de Oliveira, M.V. Robles Velasco, A.R. Gorriti Guitiérrez, M.F. Cosquillo Rafael, J.P.H. Tarazona, and M.G. Retuerto-Figueroa, Contribution of topical antioxidants to maintain healthy skin—A review. Scientia Pharmaceutica, 2020. 88(2): p. 27. 3. Herranz-López, M. and E. Barrajón-Catalán, Antioxidants and skin protection. Antioxidants, 2020. 9: p. 704. 4. Petruk, G., R. Del Giudice, M.M. Rigano, and D.M. Monti, Antioxidants from plants protect against skin photoaging. Oxid. Med. Cell. Longev., 2018. 2018: p. 1454936. 5. Athikomkulchai, S., P. Tunit, S. Tadtong, P. Jantrawut, S. Sommano, and C. Chittasupho, Moringa oleifera seed oil formulation physical stability and chemical constituents for enhancing skin hydration and antioxidant activity. Antioxidants, 2021. 8(1): p. 2. 6. Ahn, J., D. Kim, C. Park, B. Kim, H. Sim, H. Kim, T.-K. Lee, J.-C. Lee, G. Yang, Y. Her, J. Park, T. Sim, H. Lee, and M.-H. Won, Laminarin attenuates ultraviolet-induced skin damage by reducing superoxide anion levels and increasing endogenous antioxidants in the dorsal skin of mice. Mar. Drugs, 2020. 18: p. 345. 7. Karunarathne, W., I. Molagoda, K. Lee, Y. Choi, S.-M. Yu, C.-H. Kang, and G.-Y. Kim, Protective effect of anthocyanin-enriched polyphenols from Hibiscus syriacus L. (Malvaceae) against ultraviolet B-induced damage. Antioxidants, 2021. 10: p. 584. 8. Park, H., J.W. Seo, T.K. Lee, J.H. Kim, J.-E. Kim, T.-G. Lim, J.H.Y. Park, C.S. Huh, H. Yang, and K.W. Lee, Ethanol extract of yak-kong fermented by lactic acid bacteria from a Korean infant markedly reduces matrix metallopreteinase-1 expression induced by solar ultraviolet irradiation in human keratinocytes and a 3D skin model. Antioxidants, 2021. 10(2): p. 291. 9. Chaudhuri, R., T. Meyer, S. Premi, and D. Brash, Omni antioxidant: Acetyl zingerone scavenges/quenches reactive species, selectively chelates iron. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 2020. 42: p. 36-45. 10. Aguirre-Cruz, G., A. León-López, V. Cruz-Gómez, R. Jiménez-Alvarado, and G. Aguirre-Álvarez, Collagen hydrolysates for skin protection: Oral administration and topical formulation. Antioxidants, 2020. 9(2): p. 181. 11. Baswan, S., A. Klosner, K. Glynn, A. Rajgopal, K. Malik, S. Yim, and N. Stern, Therapeutic potential of cannabidiol (CBD) for skin health and disorders. Clin. Cosmet. Investig. Dermatol., 2020. 13: p. 927-942. 12. Michalak, M., M. Pierzak, B. Kręcisz, and E. Suliga, Bioactive compounds for skin health: A review. Nutrients, 2021. 13: p. 203. 13. Bochicchio, S., A. Dalmoro, V. De Simone, P. Bertoncin, G. Lamberti, and A.A. Barba, Simil-microfluidic nanotechnology in manufacturing of liposomes as hydrophobic antioxidants skin release systems. Cosmetics, 2020. 7(2): p. 22. 14. Hallan, S., M. Sguizzato, M. Drechsler, P. Mariani, L. Montesi, R. Cortesi, S. Björklund, T. Ruzgas, and E. Esposito, The potential of caffeic acid lipid nanoparticulate systems for skin application: In vitro assays to assess delivery and antioxidant effect. Nanomaterials, 2021. 11(1): p. 171. (continued on Page 16)

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You need more information about our products? Please contact our subsidiary SILAB Inc.: email: silabinc@silabinc.com phone: 732-335-1030

engineering natural active ingredients

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Age Defying Hydration

Sun Care

Skin Beauty Green Cosmetics

Advances in Antioxidant Technology for Skin Care

(continued from Page 15)

15. Ben Haddada, M., E. Gerometta, R. Chawech, J. Sorres, A. Bialecki, S. Pesnel, J. Spadavecchia, and A.-L. Morel, Assessment of antioxidant and dermoprotective activities of gold nanoparticles as safe cosmetic ingredient. Colloid. Surface. B, 2020. 189: p. 110855. 16. Gubitosa, J., V. Rizzi, P. Fini, R. Del Sole, A. Lopedota, V. Laquintana, N. Denora, A. Agostiano, and P. Cosma, Multifunctional green synthetized gold nanoparticles/chitosan/ellagic acid self-assembly: Antioxidant, sun filter and tyrosinase-inhibitor properties. Mater. Sci. Eng. C, 2020. 106: p. 110170. 17. Davies, S., R.V. Contri, S.S. Guterres, A.R. Pohlmann, and I.C.K. Guerreiro, Simultaneous nanoencapsulation of lipoic acid and resveratrol with improved antioxidant properties for the skin. Colloid. Surface. B, 2020. 192: p. 111023. 18. Hanson, K. and R. Clegg, Bioconvertible vitamin antioxidants improve sunscreen photoprotection against UV-induced reactive oxygen species. J. Cosmet. Sci., 2003. 54(6): p. 589-598. 19. Giacomoni, P., Appropriate technologies to accompany sunscreens in the battle against ultraviolet, superoxide, and singlet oxygen. Antioxidants, 2020. 9: p. 1091.

2021 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org June 17

Beyond Proteins – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event

June 22

Antioxidant Symposium Content – On Demand

June 29

Antioxidant Symposium Live Q&A with Speakers – Virtual Event

July 8

NYSCC Proudly Embraces LGBTQ+ Beauty – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event

July 15

CEW Beauty Creators Award: Conversation with the Judges for Ingredients & Formulation Category – NYSCC Preview – Virtual Event

July 26

NYSCC Golf Outing – Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg, NJ

July 29

Ethoxylated World of Personal Care – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event

August 24

Skin Aromachology – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event

September 14

All About the Skin – NYSCC Programs – Chart House, Weehawken, NJ

September 21

Sourcing Sustainability in Bioactives – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event

September 29

NYSCC Culinary Event – Natirar, Gladstone, NJ

October TBD October 28 November 10 November 10-11

Color Event – NYSCC Programs – Lightbox, New York, NY A Colorful Comeback – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event INDIE 360, Suppliers' Day, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

November 12

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Virtual Day

November 17

New Green Emollients for Personal Care Applications – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event

November 18

Clean Beauty – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event

December 14

NYSCC Supports Education, New York, NY

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SCC Annual Scientific Meeting, New York, NY

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NYSCC At Home Live Series

PROTAMEEN

Supplier of specialty materials!

NYSCC Proudly Embraces LGBTQ+ Beauty

July 8, 2021 • 12:00 – 1:00 p.m.

s the NYSCC continues to expand upon its 2021 theme of Embracing Beauty, we are pleased to, once again, celebrate Pride Month, an annual commemoration of the Stonewall uprising that occurred in 1969. This single-day occurrence has now grown into a month-long celebration of diversity and raises awareness, improves the attitudes of society, and encourages inclusiveness of the LGBTQ+ community. Highlighting this celebration will be a webinar closing out Pride Month and scheduled to take place on Thursday, July 8th. Focusing on inclusivity and our roles as NYSCC members to ensure we embrace the entire spectrum, topics to be discussed will include: • Formulation and marketing for inclusion: How can/do we impact LGBTQ+ consumers?

• Pronouns: How do we navigate these terms in the corporate environment? • Discussion of the cosmetic industry environment 10 years ago for LGBTQ+ members. • How each panelist personally is advancing cosmetic science in their current role.

Participants include:

Panel member

Giorgino Macalino, Moderator

Affiliation Manager R&D Corporate Makeup Innovation – Estée Lauder Companies

Lorne Lucree

Chief Innovation Officer – Voyant Beauty

Alex Bliziotis

Procurement Manager – Mario Badescu Skin Care Inc.

Alexander Santa Cruz Malyn Concina

Director of Regulatory Affairs – KDC R&D Manager – Shiseido

Stay tuned for full details. Registration is now open and is complimentary as part of our At Home Live Series. To register, go to: https://attendee.gotowebinar.com/register/7974537249713209359

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Tom Balsamides 375 Minnisink Road Totowa NJ Cell 201.207.0570 PROTAMEENTOMB@AOL.COM WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM

NYSCC At Home Live Series

Ethoxylated World of Personal Care

July 29, 2021 • 11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

ver the years, the cosmetics industry has failed to respond to the misinformation spread by various organizations and marketers of ‘natural products’ with respect to ethoxylated materials and consumer products in general. The inexplicable inaction of the industry towards the reduction of 1,4-dioxanein ether sulfates helped to aggravate the situation. Recent regulations by the state of New York, especially for rinse-off products, will force the industry to do what it could have done over the years on a voluntary basis. And what started with ether sulfates soon undeservedly expanded to other materials having the word ether or PEG, such as all families of nonionic ethoxylated emulsifiers. Unfortunately, the overzealous urge of some sectors of the industry to replace anything having the word ‘ether’ with other materials, often of inferior performance, has done nothing but help to ‘sanction’ the misinformation as correct. This presentation will make a side-by-side comparison of some of the claims made against ethoxylated materials (PEGs, nonionic ethers, ether sulfates) versus the available data from peers.

n Ricardo Diez, Ph.D.

Ricardo Diez, Ph.D. is currently an Adjunct Professor at Rutgers University, Piscataway, NJ, where he teaches two courses on Applied Cosmetic Science in the Masters of Business and Science program. He has more than four decades of experience in the industry in both consumer product companies (Procter & Gamble, Dial Corp., and Chanel) and raw material manufacturers (Miranol, Stepan, and Huntsman). He teaches courses and seminars for the SCC, IFSCC, and Center for Professional Advancement.

A Colorful Comeback

Save the Date / Register Now

October 28, 2021 11:00am – 12:00pm https://nyscc.org/event-schedule/

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Obituary – Thomas G. Polefka, Ph.D.

ounder of Life Science Solutions and avid outdoorsman, Tom died at home in Weehawken, NJ on June 16th after a brave 5-year battle with lung cancer at the age of 69. Formerly a resident of Somerset, Tom leaves behind to mourn his wife of 40 years Maryann, daughter Sara, son-in-law David Katz, and grandson Alex. Dr. Polefka received his B.S. degree in Biology and Chemistry from Upsala College and his Ph.D. degree in Biochemistry from the College of Medicine and Dentistry of New Jersey (now known as Rutgers Graduate School of Biomedical Sciences). He was a post-graduate fellow at Boston Biomedical Research Institute, where he met his wife. Tom’s professional career began at Colgate-Palmolive in Piscataway in the Oral Care division. He retired from Colgate-Palmolive as a Technology Director after 26 years. He then joined the Mosaic Internal Venture team at Johnson & Johnson as a Research Fellow before founding his own consulting business, Life Science Solutions. Tom was a long-time member of the American Chemical Society, American Association for the Advancement of Science, and Society of Cosmetic Chemists. During his professional career Tom was granted 29 patent awards, published 24 peer-reviewed articles, and was a contributing author to three books. Tom was particularly proud of the young scientists he mentored over his long career who have themselves risen to the highest technical and business levels within their organizations. Tom’s personal motto of ‘Look ahead with hope, not back with regret’ guided him throughout life to pursue many diverse interests. He was an avid bicyclist, fisherman, hiker, and gardener. Sharing his knowledge and enthusiasm for science and the outdoors led him to volunteer his time to numerous local organizations, including Franklin Township Little League, St. Matthias Carnival, Girl Scouts of Central and Southern New Jersey, and The Watershed Institute (Pennington, NJ). Upon closing his consulting business in 2016, Tom went on to complete training to become a Certified Rutgers Master Gardener of Somerset County. His volunteer service with the Master Gardener Helpline and schoolyard garden classes at Pine Grove Elementary School presented him with new challenges and provided immense satisfaction and pride. To honor Tom’s memory and continue his vision of looking to the future with hope, his family encourages you to volunteer for an organization in your community or wherever the need is greatest.

Save the Date / Register Now

New Green Emollients for Personal Care Applications November 17, 2021 11:00am – 12:00pm https://nyscc.org/event-schedule/

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