Cosmetiscope June 2022 by NYSCC Webmaster

Summer 2022 • Vol. 28 • Issue 6

Waterless and Low Water Formats in Cleansing

…Andrew Miller, Cara English, and Gina Guiliano Koustoubardis

Ecological Consciousness About Water Usage and Environmental Impact

hen scanning the back of your beauty and personal care products, you will often notice that water appears as the first ingredient on the label. In fact, it is estimated that most skin and body products contain anywhere from 80 to 95% water. Water is used for many reasons including its function as a solvent, enabling other ingredients to be dissolved, and is the basis to create emulsions, hydrogels, and surfactant preparations. It can also help provide volume to products, making application easier as well as dilute formulations to ensure ingredients won’t irritate the skin or scalp. While there are benefits to using water in beauty or personal care products, we also know there are concerns over water usage. The Ecological Threat Register,1 conducted by the Sydney-based Institute for Economics and Peace (IEP), estimates that “already, there are more than 2.6 billion people facing high or extreme water stress, meaning they either don't have enough water for their needs or that their water supply is at risk of disruption.” Climate crisis could displace 1.2 billion people by 2050, the report warns. They also estimate that by 2040, a total of 5.4 billion people— or more than half of the world's projected population—will live in countries facing high or extreme water stress. Many manufacturers are now trying to address the water crisis through innovative product development in the space of solid, anhydrous, or low water containing formulas. Everything from bars to powders to highly concentrated products are being developed and ingredient suppliers are developing additional solutions to meet these demands. A shampoo bottle of water might seem like a few drops in the face of climate change; however, if we continue to save water in our purchasing decisions, those few drops of consumption can turn into a flood of savings for the Earth. The water crisis is not the only focus here, consumers are thinking about the impact the products they buy have on the environment and how sustainable they really are. Reducing plastic packaging or using alternative recyclable packaging that is more environmentally conscious is tied to trending formats that are anhydrous or low water containing. In the United States, 83% of consumers are interested in trying products with eco-friendly packaging and 34% would be willing to pay more for it, according to Mintel.2 In addition, waterless or reduced water formulations help cut transport and energy costs, overall reducing one's carbon footprint.

Overview: Solid Surfactants in Waterless or Low Water Formats

Surfactants are surface active agents and have the ability to modify the interface between various phases such as water and oil phases. They are amphiphilic molecules meaning one portion of the molecule is hydrophilic “the head” and another portion is hydrophobic “the tail”. Due to their structure, the effects of the interface are the result of the ability to orient themselves in accordance (continued on Page 5) with the polarities of the two opposing phases. Surfactants have many functions such as cleansing/detergency,

N Y S C C N AT U R A L I N G R E D I E N T S S Y M P O S I U M • J U N E 3 0 ...see pages 10-25 for more information.

2022 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect Stacey House chair-elect@nyscc.org Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Alex Blakeman treasure-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Susanna Fernandes advisor@nyscc.org Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc.org By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com Social Media Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org

Letter from the Chair

…Giorgio Dell’Acqua

e did it! Thank you for making Suppliers’ Day a blockbuster event, with non-stop learning, sourcing, and networking opportunities. It was wonderful to witness our theme of Science and Sustainability come to life and be woven throughout all the layers of the event. Please read the event wrap-up inside this issue (pages 8-9) and visit the Exhibitor List on the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day website for access to select programming from the event and exhibitors’ new products, novel ingredients, and formulation solutions. Now that our main event is behind us, what should be next on your calendar? Plenty of social and educational programs to keep you entertained, engaged and informed this Summer! On Thursday, June 30th we have a full-day symposium on Natural Ingredients at the Brooklyn Botanicl Gardens. This symposium has an incredible line-up of leading academics and subject matter experts from all over the world. There will also be lunch and poster sessions as well as breaks for everyone to fully enjoy the beautiful and appropriate venue. Read more about the topics presented in this issue. Complimentary bus service will be provided from Edison and Paramus, NJ. During the peak of summer, plan to join us at one of our outdoor social events, with the Annual Golf Outing on July 25th or on August 13th for our Fishing Trip where all equipment and food is provided for bottom fishing. I am also proud to say at the NYSCC the learning does not stop. We had a successful "Inspired by All Senses" dinner cruise on Thursday, June 16th and there will be an At Home Live Program on "Environmental and Social Impacts of Cosmetic Products" on August 9th, and two sunscreen focused programs in September. Enjoy the summer! Please stay-tuned on details for the balance of our 2022 programs. There is a lot happening. Plan to join us: https://nyscc.org/event-schedule/. Finally, if you are looking to become more involved, don’t hesitate to reach out! We are always looking for new people, bringing fresh ideas, and renewed enthusiasm! Contact one of our board members who’s contact information is provided on the side-bar of this page. Scientifically yours,

NYSCC and ACS “Careers in Cosmetic Science” Panel at St. John’s University

n April 30, a NYSCC delegation composed of Giorgio Dell’Acqua (Nutrafol and 2022 NYSCC Chair), Amber Evans (Morocconoil and NYSCC Scientific Committee), Sue Feng (ET Brown), Toussaint Jordan (L’Oréal and NYSCC Scholarship Chair), and Tao Zheng (Estée Lauder and SCC Scientific Committee) visited St. John’s University in Queens, NY for an event jointly organized by the NYSCC and the New York section of the American Chemical Society (ACS). The event, “Careers in Cosmetic Science,” was attended by St. John’s students majoring in chemistry and biology. The NYSCC delegation presented on current trends in Personal Care and Cosmetic Science as well as gave tips and advice on careers in the industry during this interactive panel discussion. The NYSCC is actively engaged in providing Cosmetic Science education and in facilitating to any student and young professionals access to the association and the Beauty and Personal Care industry. The NYSCC plans to organize more educational panels on “Careers in Cosmetic Science” in the near future targeting local colleges to increase awareness and access to our industry. Please visit the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org) for updates. 2

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No. 6

MMP’s innovative actives and functional ingredients

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Waterless and Low Water Formats in Cleansing

(continued from Page 1)

wetting, emulsifying, solubilizing, or dispersing. In this article we focus on the cleansing and foaming functionality of surfactants in regard to waterless or low water containing formats. In order to formulate waterless or low water containing formats in the cleansing space chemists need a variety of solid surfactants, as these materials are the workhorses of the formulation. Solid surfactants range in material form from powders to noodles/needles, flakes, pellets, and more. Furthermore, solid surfactants are diverse in their types of chemistry and are mainly classified as anionic, but sometimes they are non-ionic or amphoteric.

Alkyl Sulfates

To start, alkyl sulfates which are sulfuric acid derivatives, such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium coco-sulfate (SCS), are still widely used in solid, anhydrous, or low water containing formulations despite the negative associations with sulfates and the market shift towards sulfate-alternatives. There are several advantages to using these sulfate materials including: 1) low cost; 2) easy to process; 3) quick and excellent foaming capacity; 4) large bubble size; 5) thickening response and salt response; and 6) highly water soluble. The list goes on. Also, they often have a high naturality index and meet certification requirements such as COSMOS or Ecolabel, which is appealing to many brands. They are primary, highly anionic surfactants that don’t necessarily require a secondary surfactant in formulation. The major drawbacks besides containing sulfates are the irritation potential and not being suitable for sensitive skin or baby products as these materials tend to also leave the skin and hair feeling dry.

Isethionates

Next up are the isethionates. Following right behind sulfates in usage, isethionates are sulfonic acid derivatives— such as sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) and sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate (SLMI), which differ by water solubility—can be found nearly in almost all low water or waterless products that claim sulfate-alternative. This surfactant is also anionic and delivers creamy, dense, rich foam with great care feel benefits to the skin and hair. It can be used as a sole surfactant because of its unique foam profile and its mildness properties. There are very few negatives associated with isethionates, which include not being 100% naturally derived, potentially containing low ppm levels of 1,4-dioxane, and not having natural certificates approval. Due to demand for this material and the highly challenging supply chain environment that the market is currently facing, brands are faced with finding the next best alternative to isethionates. Alternatives to isethionate include sulfo-fatty acid derivatives such as sulfolaurates or sulfoacetates. These materials have a higher naturality and are ethoxylate-free surfactants compared to isethionates. However, organic sulfate salt impurities may be present in any of these sulfo-fatty acid derived surfactants. Whereas the foam profile is similar to isethionates, they are not a 1:1 replacement. The foam produced by these surfactants is creamy, but not as dense with some larger size bubbles. Likewise, they have limited water solubility (similar to the isethionates). Essentially, foam and sensory properties of the sulfo-fatty acids lay somewhere between alkyl sulfates and isethionates.

Sulfosuccinates and Taurates

Other less sought-after solid surfactants that are also sulfonic acid derivatives are sulfosuccinates and taurates. Sulfosuccinates, likewise to isethionates, are mild anionic surfactants causing less irritation to eyes and skin, that pose similar foam that is voluminous and dense. In addition, this material is not 100% naturally derived, so natural certificates are not granted. It is typically used as a co-surfactant since the foam isn’t the most stable, and best paired with an isethionate or a sulfated surfactant. Note that this material can hydrolyze at extreme pH levels. Second, are the taurate surfactants. Taurates are derived from the amino acid taurine by acylation. Taurates are another mild and gentle anionic surfactant option that are highly water soluble and could be great replacements for sulfates as they provide a nice sensorial (continued on Page 6) experience. Their high foam characteristic is stable over a range of pH and are

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Waterless and Low Water Formats in Cleansing

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naturally derived, but it is important to note their naturality is often not as high compared to other amino acid-based surfactants that are discussed below.

Glycinate and Glutamate Solid Surfactants

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Widely used in Asia for some time, glycinate and glutamate solid surfactants [In particular, sodium or potassium cocoyl glutamate or glycinate (SCG, PCG) and sodium or potassium lauroyl glutamate or glycinate (SLG, PLG).] are gaining popularity in other regions for sulfate-alternative, anhydrous, or low water containing formulations. These acylated amino acid-based surfactants, derived from glycine and glutamic acid, are 100% naturally derived, biodegradable, ethoxylate-free, and meet COSMOS and Ecolabel certifications. They are both mild and gentle, with rich, creamy, and stable foam properties. They are classified as anionic surfactants, but often can be considered amphoteric due to their zwitterionic character, which depends upon the pH conditions. As a result, this will affect water solubility and foaming properties of the surfactant. In addition, they exhibit substantivity to the hair and skin through protein interactions making them very desirable. For superior performance they are usually combined with isethionates in solid and paste formats. Other surfactants that are in the same classification are sarcosinates. Although they are not as widely available in solid form compared to the glycinates/glutamates, they possess similar benefits with high naturality and most likely will increase in popularity for these formats in the future.

The Road Ahead for Formats

The next generation of bar soaps is on the horizon. Shampoo and cleansing bars are beginning to emerge on the market as a popular alternative to traditional hair and body wash products. Bar formats can be particularly difficult to make, due to both the blend of raw materials needed for a robust bar structure and the manufacturing process. There are various ways in which these bars can be molded through hot pour, pressing, or extrusion. With a hot pour, all the raw materials are mixed and melted. At a high temperature, the liquid is then poured into molds. The bars are solidified once cooled to room temperature, or they can also be placed in a freezer to speed up the process. It is important to consider the melting point of all the materials used in hot pour formulations since there may be stability issues if the bar melts at higher temperatures. With pressed bars, the liquid oils, melted waxes, and butters are added to the powdered surfactants and mixed until uniform. Once homogenous, the product is pressed with high force so that the bar does not easily break apart. In the extrusion process, the product is placed in the extruder in which the solid is pushed through the machine and is molded into its desired shape. It can be beneficial to maintain a medium temperature during the extrusion process in order to aid in the product remaining soft and malleable. Adding glycerin may be helpful in adding pliability to the formulation, and thus, ease the extrusion process. A traditional cleansing product can be transformed into a concentrate, paste, or balm by reducing the amount of water that is added to the formulation. These formats are ideal for hair and body washing, with balms being particularly effective for removing makeup and cleansing oil. These formulations often replace water with glycerin or oils and use a high level of surfactant. Water can then be added to the product during use to activate foaming or emulsification. Concentrates typically are in a liquid format, in which the consumer will add water to dilute the recommended dose level in a reusable bottle and shake to mix. Though these formulations typically do contain water, they have a significantly greater quantity of surfactants and emollients compared to a traditional shampoo. Paste products also contain high levels of surfactant, but also include structuring agents in order to achieve the desired viscous format. This format typically has very low or even no water, and rather uses glycerin as the main component. Glycerin is a good alternative solvent, however, too much glycerin can leave an undesirable feeling on the hair/skin. Careful consideration must be taken when selecting structuring agents. A thick emulsion is desired for this format, however, seamless dispersion from the tube packaging is needed for easy consumer use. Balms are typically anhydrous with a large quantity of 6

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oils, waxes, and butters. A high oil load is needed to clean dirt and impurities from the face while leaving the skin feeling soft. One additional benefit of this type of waterless formulation is a low concern for microorganism growth since preservatives are not needed in anhydrous products. In the case of low water formulations, such as bars, concentrates, and pastes, a preservative can be added at a low use level. Powders have been around for years and are one of the more straightforward formats. Powdered cleansers consist of solid surfactants and starches. Additional materials such as charcoal, active ingredients, conditioning agents, and rheology modifiers, may also be added to tailor the product towards specific hair/skin benefits. The blend of powders is then packaged in pouches or packets. With this format, the product is water activated and must be fast acting for ideal consumer use. These powders can also be transformed into tablets through tablet pressing equipment. Though tablets are small, they have a high potential for use in the cleansing market, specifically for travel. Whether the tablet is for single use or is meant to be dissolved in water and used over time, water must be added to active foam. The major hurdle in creating tablets is not in the formulation, but rather in the formation. The amount of powder used, the pressure, and the force, are key measurements that greatly affect the usability of the tablet. For optimal consumer experience, the tablet must remain held together while not in use but should also breakdown easily and quickly once in use.

Concluding Remarks

The growing trend for low water and waterless products can be addressed from both a raw material and formulation perspective. These product formats have many benefits from a sustainability standpoint, though formulators must consider all aspects of the product during development; from solid surfactant choice to processing to packaging. With low water and waterless formats becoming more desired by consumers, new product formats are expected to emerge in other categories, especially for leave-on use. Dry shampoo powders are especially popular as a quick way to freshen hair in between washes and pomades are used to maintain hair styling. Balm and stick formats provide ease of use in the skin and sun care category. With each low water and waterless product, a big step towards a sustainable future is taken. Ultimately, it is up to suppliers and brands to work together in order for consumers to make the transition to these types of products.

References

1. The Ecological Threat Register; conducted by the Sydney-based Institute for Economics and Peace (IEP). 2. Kantar Profiles/Mintel, August 2021; Rakuten Insights/Mintel, August 2021. 3. M. Rieger and L. Rhein, Surfactants in Cosmetics, 2nd ed., Marcel Dekker: New York, NY, 1997. 4. M. Rosen, Surfactants and Interfacial Phenomena, 3rd ed., Wiley-Interscience: Hoboken, NJ, 2004.

About the Authors:

Andrew Miller

Andrew Miller joined BASF Corporation in 2007 and has held several roles within the organization. He has worked in personal care for over eight years and is currently the North American Marketing Manager of the hair, body, and oral care segments. He received his B.A. in Communications from Rutgers University and obtained his MBA from Centenary College.

Cara English

Cara English joined BASF Corporation in 2021. She has worked in the personal care industry for over four years and currently works in the North American Application Technology group as a chemist in hair and rinse-off body care segments. She received her B.S. in Chemistry from Bucknell University and is currently pursuing an MBS in Personal Care Science at Rutgers University.

Gina Guiliano

Gina Guiliano Koustoubardis joined BASF Corporation in 2014. She currently works in the North American Application Technology group as a senior chemist, focusing on hair and rinse-off body care formulation development as well as customer and technical support. She has worked in personal care for over eleven years, previously working at Avon Products. She received her B.S. in Chemistry from Manhattan College and obtained her M.S. in Cosmetic Science from the University of Cincinnati.

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No. 6

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NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2022 Succeeds on All Levels

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ur 43rd Annual Suppliers’ Day came to a successful conclusion at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York, NY. Showcasing the latest raw materials, ingredients, formulations, and technical innovations, the event attracted 7,805 attendees representing 55 countries. The exhibit floor had 448 exhibitors with a 17% increase in net square footage space including nearly 100 new exhibitors and new product announcements. “The enthusiasm and excitement for Suppliers’ Day was evident throughout the Javits Center. Everyone was eager to meet in person and get back to business as well as learn about the latest industry

trends and advancements,” said Giorgio Dell’Acqua, NYSCC Chair. “It truly was the destination for Science and Sustainable Sourcing Solutions!” The high-quality attendance and engagement as well as focus on sustainability at Suppliers’ Day was also praised by exhibitors. “I have been attending Suppliers’ Day for over 35 years. This one is special, being able to finally make connections in person. Also, there is so much innovation in the industry now and every supplier is thinking about sustainability. It is a big push in the industry and consumers are pushing for it as much as the brands,” said Scott Tuchinsky, Business Head Consumer Care, North America, Croda. Neslihan Utkan, Business Director, Consumer Care, Clariant, added: “Attendance has been great this year and Suppliers’ Day is an important platform for seeing where the industry is heading. It is all about natural, green, and sustainable products.” A highlight of day two was a special Keynote presentation by Noah Rosenblatt, President, North America, Space NK being interviewed by Kelly Kovack, Founder and CEO, BeautyMatter. The conversation touched upon consumers’ return to in-store shopping in terms of experience, convenience, and connection as online sales growth returns to a pre-pandemic trajectory. Noah also discussed how ingredient-led trends are driving sales and that consumers are shopping by ingredient just as much as they are searching for an ingredient. “We’re seeing the ingredient-led trend continue to show up regularly in our stores and product selection and curation,” said Noah Rosenblatt. “Hyaluronic acid to CBD, vitamin C, and this year, niacinamide is everywhere.” The educational offerings at Suppliers’ Day were also well received by attendees. With more than 60 hours of programming, there was something for everyone in the industry. The Presentation Theater boasted standing room only sessions that included Discover Sustainability, World of Chemistry, IBA Regulatory and Compliance Update, and Innovations from the Exhibit Floor that highlighted some of the dozens of new product announcements that were made at the event. Digital Age of Beauty returned with presentations on digital tools and innovative technologies that influence product development, including artificial intelligence (AI), virtual reality (VR), and a presentation 8

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on “The Good Face App – Where Consumers Drive R&D.” Microbiome: Inside Out Beauty featured the Skin Trust Club, a unique skin health tracking app powered by Labskin and included a talk by Dr. Elsa Jungman of ELSI Skin Health, the first microbiome-friendly U.S. consumer brand. The INDIE 360 program covered every angle of launching and sustaining a brand and featured founders Dr. Brent Ridge, Beekman 1802 and Stephanie Lee, Selfmade. Two advanced courses were specifically curated by the NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee and took deep dives into In-vitro Modeling to Predict Clinical Outcome as well as Natural Colorants. The Lunch and Learn on Hair: Textured, Curly, Straight? What You Need to Know! was standing room only and PCPC and IKW presented their popular class on Essential Elements of Cosmetic Regulation, Safety Assessment, and Quality Assurance. For the first time, there was a Poster Presentation Pavilion with scheduled session times with the authors for attendees to learn more about skin care, clean and green, CBD, sustainability, and other relevant topics. The Future Chemists Workshop hosted college students from 16 universities and colleges across the country including University of Toledo in Ohio, Florida International University, Rutgers University, and New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). This program provided attendees with a real-world experience of working as a bench chemist in a lab. The NYSCC Mentorship Committee hosted a lunch meet up and Information Session for Mentors and Mentees. After the first night of the show, the NYSCC Awards Night Ceremony took place at Sony Hall. There were eight finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award: Ingredients & Formulation. These included: BASF Corporation, Seanactiv – quickly rejuvenate the eye contour; Clariant Corporation, Berashades; Croda Inc., ChromaPur; Croda Inc., Nutrinvent Balance; Geltor, Inc., Elastapure; IFF-Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Anti-Glyc-Aging Zinc Screen; Silab Inc., Peptilium; and Symrise, Inc., SymHair Thermo – 100% natural heat protection for hair care powered by mushrooms. The winner will be announced at the CEW Winner’s Celebration on November 11, 2022. The NYSCC also hosted a People’s Choice Award where attendees casted their vote for the most innovative brand in ingredients, delivery, and branding/packaging in the INDIE 360 Pavilion. The curated companies that participated included: CandaScent Labs, Dr Lili Fan Probiotic Skincare, High on Love, Ion Skincare, Lamik Beauty, Malibu Apothecary, Onekind, PRIORI Adaptive Skincare, Redmint, Shielded Beauty, Sunrise Session by Nohbo, Inc., and Touch in Sol. The People’s Choice Award winner was Sunrise Session, a single-use, waste-free self-care that disappears and leaves no trace behind. “Sunrise Session had an amazing first time at Suppliers’ Day,” said Benjamin Stern, Founder & CEO, Nohbo, Inc., who was present at the champagne reception to accept the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day People’s Choice Award. “It is exciting to be recognized as a leading brand in sustainability and to be at such a valuable event for chemists.” Virtual Suppliers’ Day launched on Monday, May 9th attracting hundreds of new attendees and providing the on-site attendees at the Javits Center a chance to revisit with exhibitors or catch content they may have missed during show days. This Week of Beauty Live and Virtual event reached 8,000 participants from around the globe. Plans are already underway for the 2023 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, taking place May 2-3, again at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, with more than 80% of exhibitors already registered. "I am looking forward to working closely with our members and the SCC as well as with the Suppliers’ Day team in expanding our industry and media partnerships to create the best global ingredients event for the industry, by the industry,” said Stacey House, Chair-Elect, NYSCC. “The past few years have been challenging. I also want to focus on bridging wellness and ecoconsciousness into areas of the beauty and personal care industry.”

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NYSCC Natural Ingredients Symposium

June 30, 2022

10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. The Palm House, Brooklyn Botanic Garden, Brooklyn, NY

oin us for an intellectually stimulating day chock-full of interesting facts and findings about the world of natural ingredients with respect to personal care products. This event will be held at the alluring Brooklyn Botanic Garden, a serene location connecting attendees with the plant world and fostering a sense of stewardship of the environment. In this first symposium of its kind, the NYSCC will have lectures and interactive sessions that address sustainability, biodiversity, green products, biodegradability, and many other aspects of natural ingredient science.

NYSCC Natural Ingredients Symposium Sponsors:

Agenda: 9:00 a.m. – 10:00 a.m.

Registration

10:00 a.m. – 10:10 a.m.

Opening Remarks

10:10 a.m. – 10:40 a.m.

Antioxidants, Stem Cells, and the Thymoquinone Story – Bo Michniak-Kohn (Rutgers University)

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10:40 a.m. – 11:10 a.m.

History of Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics – Roger L. McMullen (Fairleigh Dickinson University and Ashland LLC)

11:10 a.m. – 11:20 a.m.

Break

11:20 a.m. – 11:50 a.m.

Beyond the Usual Suspects: What’s the ‘Next Big Thing’ of Bioactive Phytochemicals from Cannabis for Skin Protective Effects? – Hang Ma (University of Rhode Island)

11:50 a.m. – 12:20 p.m.

Why There is So Much Buzz About Retinol and Retinol-like Products? – Ratan K. Chaudhuri (Sytheon)

12:20 p.m. – 1:50 p.m.

Lunch and Poster Session

Explore what’s next with IMCD experts at imcdus.com.

1:50 p.m. – 2:20 p.m.

What are the Main Challenges of Replacing Ingredients by Sustainable Alternatives in Cosmetics? – Joana Marques Marto (University of Lisbon)

2:20 p.m. – 2:50 p.m.

A Novel Unique Technology to Develop Cosmetic Ingredients Inspired by Plant-Associated Microbiome: Phytofermentology – Isabelle Imbert (Ashland LLC)

2:50 p.m. – 3:50 p.m.

Garden Tour and Poster Session

3:50 p.m. – 4:20 p.m.

Marine Biotechnology at Nautilus Biosciences Croda – Russell Kerr (University of Prince Edward Island and Nautilus Biosciences Croda)

4:20 p.m. – 4:50 p.m.

Development of Naturally-Derived Silicone Ionic Gel – Mana Tamami (Momentive)

4:50 p.m. – 5:00 p.m.

Closing Remarks

5:00 p.m. – 6:00 p.m.

Cocktail Hour

To register, go to the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

n NYSCC Natural Ingredients Symposium Committee • • • • • •

Roger L. McMullen (Ashland LLC) – Chair Raymond B. Clark (Ashland LLC) – Assistant Chair Gopinathan Menon (California Academy of Sciences) – Scientific Advisor Tao Zheng (Estée Lauder) – Scientific Advisor/Moderator Vincent Gruber (Jeen International Corporation) – Scientific Advisor/Moderator Neelam Muizzuddin (Skin Clinical Research Consultants) – Scientific Advisor/Moderator

n Acknowledgement

Thank you to the NYSCC Scientific Committee for their efforts in putting this program together.

n Bus Service to Brooklyn Botanic Garden

The NYSCC is offering complimentary bus service to Brooklyn Botanic Garden for this event. There will be two buses (Raritan Valley Bus Service) departing from New Jersey at 7:30 a.m. the day of the event. The two pickup locations are: • Edison, NJ. Parking lot behind Harold’s New York Deli: 3050 Woodbridge Avenue, Edison, NJ. • Paramus, NJ. Garden State Plaza: Between Chili’s and Hanna Krause’s Home Made Candies store. Corner near service road. Buses will depart Brooklyn Botanic Garden at 5:00 p.m. and return to their respective locations in New Jersey. Contact Bret Clark at rbclark@ashland.com to reserve your seat on the bus. Please indicate the location (Edison or Paramus) where you plan to board the bus.

n Event Location

• The Palm House, Brooklyn Botanic Garden, 1000 Washington Avenue, Brooklyn, NY • Parking – Attendees who would like to drive to the event can park in the Brooklyn Botanic Garden (continued on Page 12) parking at: 990 Washington Avenue, Brooklyn, NY.

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Shaping tomorrow’s beauty through innovation and formulation expertise

NYSCC Natural Ingredients Symposium

Speaker Abstracts and Biographies

(continued from Page 11)

Antioxidants, Stem Cells, and the Thymoquinone Story

Bo Michniak-Kohn

here are a large variety of natural ingredients for cosmetic applications known in the scientific literature. Commonly used ingredients comprise herbs, minerals, vitamins, antioxidants, essential oils, enzymes, and hormones that have become increasingly more popular in cosmetic and personal care products. Plant stem cells are another natural source that is gaining enhanced popularity in the cosmetic field.1 Plant stem cells have been shown, for example, to possess outstanding anti-aging properties and can (among other activities) stimulate fibroblasts to regenerate skin. It has been found that one of the most active compounds in the extracts is kinetin (6-furfuryladenine), a cytokine and a strong antioxidant, which prevents oxidation and glycoxidation of nucleic acids and proteins in skin enabling cells to remove excess free radicals which offers protection from oxidative stress.2 Some of the work in the Michniak-Kohn research group3,4 involves the use of thymoquinone, a quinone-based phytochemical that is the main active in Nigella sativa (black cumin seeds). It has been shown to possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-neoplastic properties. In a recent study, Haq et al. used polyvinylpyrrolidone matrix-type films to deliver thymoquinone to human skin samples and wounds in vitro in a human cell model and in vivo in mice.4 The group found that the novel thymoquinone films provided significant antibacterial properties and excellent wound closure activity as compared to Gentamycin Sulfate Cream USP. References 1. S. Trehan, B. Michniak-Kohn, and K. Beri, Plant stem cells in cosmetics: current trends and future directions, Future Sci. OA, 3(4): FSO226 (2017). 2. M. Miastkowska and E. Sikora, Anti-aging properties of plant stem cell extracts, Cosmetics, 5, 55 (2018); DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics5040055. 3. A. Haq and B. Michniak-Kohn, Effects of solvents and penetration enhancers on transdermal delivery of thymoquinone: permeability and skin deposition study, Drug Deliv., 25(1): 1943-1949 (2018). 4. A. Haq, S. Kumar, Y. Mao, F. Berthiaume, and B. Michniak-Kohn, Thymoquinone loaded polymeric films and hydrogels for bacterial disinfection and wound healing, Biomedicines, 8, 386 (2020); DOI: 10.3390/biomedicines8100386.

n Bozena B. Michniak-Kohn, Ph.D.

Dr. Bozena B. Michniak-Kohn is a tenured Professor of Pharmaceutics at the Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy, and Founder/Director of the Center for Dermal Research CDR (NJCBM) at Rutgers – The State University of New Jersey, Piscataway, NJ. Her main focus is topical, transdermal, and buccal drug delivery. Dr. Michniak-Kohn has over 40 years of experience in the design and optimization of topically applied formulations and transdermal patches. She received her B.Sc. (honors) in Pharmacy and Ph.D. in Pharmacology from the U.K. Dr. Michniak-Kohn has directed over 60 Ph.D. and Masters students and the work resulted in over 170 peer-reviewed manuscripts, over 470 abstracts, 4 books, and 38 book chapters. She is a member of 10 journal editorial boards, several scientific advisory boards, member of Board of Trustees at TRIPrinceton, and is a reviewer for over 50 pharmaceutical and drug delivery journals. For this work she was awarded Fellow status of the American Association of Pharmaceutical Scientists (AAPS) in 2008. Websites: www.centerfordermalresearch.org and www.michniaklab.org. ___________________________________________________________________________

History of Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics

Roger L. McMullen

atural ingredients have been used in cosmetic products since antiquity. The early Egyptians were renowned for their makeup preparations and other cosmetic ingredients used to cleanse and scent the body. The most common cosmetic potions consisted of eye paints, facial paints, oils, and solid fats (ointments).1 As an example, kohl is a paste/powder that was commonly used as eye shadow 12

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and is reported to have been made with galena ore, which contains lead sulfide. A paste made from malachite, a green ore of copper, was also used to color the eyes of Egyptians. Many of the skin preparations were applied to skin and hair to protect them from harsh radiation from the Sun. Hair and nail dyeing in ancient Egypt was achieved using henna, which was extracted from the plant, Lawsonia inermis. Henna was also popular in ancient India and China as a hair dyeing agent. In India, henna was also used to paint designs on the hands and feet in the art known as mehndi.2 The Egyptians were also very astute on the use of fragrances. They used many different types of herbs and oils, such as aloe, chamomile, lavender, myrrh, olive oil, peppermint, sesame oil, and thyme.3 Turmeric, a traditional Indian spice from the root of Curcuma longa, was commonly used in Ayurvedic medicine as a therapeutic agent. It contains curcumin, which has anti-inflammatory properties. In recent years, turmeric has become an extremely popular cosmetic ingredient for skin care preparations. In traditional Chinese culture, skin was treated with oils and herbs. Panax ginseng is one of the most popular ingredients in ancient herbal therapy, and still widely used today. Rice powder was also popular and used to paint the face, serving as a form of makeup that provided a whitish appearance and had the benefit of removing excessive oils. The use of nail polish dates back to ancient China, using egg whites, flowers, and beeswax.4 Unfortunately, only royalty and the upper echelon of society were permitted to paint their nails. In this presentation, we will provide an overview of the history of natural ingredients in cosmetics presenting a balanced approach to the contributions of various civilizations, both East and West, to the current state of our knowledge. References 1. A. Lucas, Cosmetics, perfumes, and incense in ancient Egypt, J. Egypt. Arch., 16(1/2): 41-53 (1930). 2. M. Nayak and V. Ligade, History of cosmetics in Egypt, India, and China, J. Cosmet. Sci., 72: 432-441 (2021). 3. S. Chaudhri and N. Jain, History of cosmetics, Asian J. Pharm., 3(3), 164-167 (2009). 4. N. Madnani and K. Khan, Nail cosmetics, Indian J. Dermatol. Venereol. Leprol., 78: 309-317 (2012).

n Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.

Dr. Roger McMullen has over 20 years of experience in the personal care industry with specialties in optics, imaging, and spectroscopy of hair and skin. Currently, he is a Principal Scientist at Ashland, LLC and leads their Material Science team. Roger has over 30 publications in peer-reviewed journals and textbooks. He is also the author of Antioxidants and the Skin, 2nd edition and founded the online news magazine The Cosmetic Chemist (www.thecosmeticchemist.com). Roger received a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and completed his Ph.D. in Biophysical Chemistry at Seton Hall University. Roger actively engages and participates in educational activities in the personal care industry. He frequently teaches continuing education courses for the SCC and TRI-Princeton. In addition, Roger is an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University and teaches Biochemistry to students pursuing M.S. degrees in Cosmetic Science and Pharmaceutical Chemistry. Prior to pursuing a career in science, Roger served in the U.S. Navy for four years on board the USS YORKTOWN (CG 48). He is fluent in Spanish and Catalan and currently is learning to play the classical guitar.

Beyond the Usual Suspects: What’s the ‘Next Big Thing’ of Bioactive Phytochemicals from Cannabis for Skin Protective Effects? ___________________________________________________________________________

Hang Ma

ioactive cosmeceutical ingredients containing phytochemicals from cannabis have attracted immense research interest and consumer popularity. While the vast majority of published studies on the skin beneficial effects of cannabis have primarily focused on its major non-psychedelic phytocannabinoid, namely, cannabidiol (CBD), there is a paucity of data on the skin protective effects of other bioactive compounds in cannabis. Apart from CBD, cannabis contains a wide spectrum of bioactive phytochemicals including numerous minor cannabinoids (e.g., cannabigerol and cannabichromene) and (continued on Page 14) non-cannabinoids compounds such as flavonoids and stilbenes. It is possible that

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these bioactives collectively contribute to the overall skin protective effects of cannabis. Herein, our group has initiated a research program to systemically investigate the biological effects of phytochemicals including minor cannabinoids and non-cannabinoids from cannabis using a panel of in-house in vitro based bioassays. In particular, we use human immune cells (THP-1 monocytes) and skin cells (keratinocytes), respectively, to evaluate the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of cannabis compounds. Data from our current study revealed that several minor cannabinoids including cannabigerol (CBG), cannabigerolic acid (CBGA), and cannabidivarin (CBDV) showed promising anti-inflammatory effects by reducing levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines including interleukin-1 and tumor necrosis factoralpha in THP-1 cells. In addition, minor cannabinoids and flavonoids from cannabis showed superior antioxidant activity in human keratinocyte HaCaT cells as compared to CBD. In addition, our laboratory evaluated the physicochemical properties (including solubility and skin permeability) of several active minor cannabinoids, which are critical for their future development as cosmeceutical ingredients for skincare products.

n Hang Ma, Ph.D.

Dr. Hang Ma is an Assistant Professor in the Department of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences at the College of Pharmacy of the University of Rhode Island (URI) and the Associate Director of Bioactive Botanical Research Laboratory at URI. Dr. Ma received his Master’s and Doctoral degrees in Pharmaceutical Sciences in 2011 and 2014 from URI, respectively. He has over 15 years of research experience in the field of natural products chemistry. His research interests include phytochemical and biological investigations of natural products from medicinal plants and functional foods for their therapeutical, nutraceutical, and cosmeceutical applications. Dr. Ma has co-authored over 80 original peer-reviewed research articles, one review article, and one international patent. He is a member of the editorial board of several scientific journals including Cannabis and Cannabinoids Research and Journal of Cannabis Research.

Why There is so Much Buzz About Retinol and Retinol-like Products?

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Ratan K. Chaudhuri

ith so many doctors and ingredient suppliers on a hunt for the next big antiaging product, why does Retinol still have so much appeal? The answer, many dermatologists say, is simple: it works. Retinol is a defined molecule, not an extract, and has over 30 years of solid science behind it. Its effect is demonstrated on a molecular level and validated by multiple clinical studies. Retinol addresses all major skin care issues, reverses aging signs, protects skin from further damage, controls pigmentation, and improves skin problems, such as acne. If you do a Google search for “Retinol Products,” you obtain 49 million hits. If it is so well studied and works so well, why isn’t everyone using Retinol? Well, nothing in this world is perfect. Retinol is nowhere close to being a perfect solution and has many inherent drawbacks. Chief among them include: lack of photostability; problems with chemical stability in formulated products; difficulties in formulation; and the fact that regular use causes skin irritancy, sensitivity, dryness, and scaling. Can you imagine the potential of a product with all the major benefits of Retinol but none of its chief drawbacks? If you do a Google search for “Retinol-like Products,” you get 30 million hits. You can easily understand why ingredient suppliers are so eager to claim new products (extracts or blends) as Retinollike, always taking very minor functional attributes of Retinol. Let us look at the criteria one should consider when making such a claim. Since Retinol has a wide range of activity, a comparative genomic/ transcriptomic molecular signature profile of Retinol and Retinol-like compounds makes a good starting point. Modulation of key genes requires validation by rtPCR study along with cell-based studies, like ECM protein boosting, enzyme inhibitory activity, anti-inflammatory activity, hydration, and the list goes on. Multiple studies now firmly establish that Bakuchiol (purity >99.5%) isolated from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia can match or even exceed retinol for its preventative and restorative anti-aging 14

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benefits as well for its management of skin disorders such as acne and hyperpigmentation. Moreover, unlike Retinol, Bakuchiol is well tolerated on skin (less stinging, burning, and scaling) and is free of complications resulting from skin photosensitivity and from chemical instability in finished formulations. Finally, head-to-head comparison to retinol in clinical studies validated true skin benefits of Bakuchiol. All these benefits have fueled worldwide appeal and excitement around Bakuchiol as a natural alternative to Retinol and has prompted the launch of numerous commercial products onto global markets. Although use of Bakuchiol in skin care will not entirely fulfill the quest for eternal youth, it may bring it just one step closer.

n Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Ph.D.

Ratan K. Chaudhuri is the first employee, President, and CEO of Sytheon, which he founded in 2006. Sytheon is an innovative global specialty ingredient company growing over 50% annually (www.sytheonltd.com). Sytheon’s global headquarters is located in Parsippany, New Jersey, USA with its European affiliate in France and Asian affiliate in Singapore. Ratan is a humble entrepreneur by heart and a strategic thinker with strong leadership skills. He has developed numerous best-in-class products for the personal care industry. Two of his most recent introductions are Sytenol A (INCI: Bakuchiol) and Synovea HR (INCI: Hexylresorcinol), which he developed with an incredible team. Ratan holds over 100 U.S. and international patents, and is the author of over ninety publications and six book chapters. Prior to starting Sytheon, Ratan held technical management positions at EMD Chemicals (Merck KGaA) and ISP Chemicals (Ashland LLC) in the USA.

What are the Main Challenges of Replacing Ingredients by Sustainable Alternatives in Cosmetics? ___________________________________________________________________________

Joana Marques Marto

ustainability, the ability of something to maintain itself, has been increasingly debated over the years especially concerning the limited availability of natural resources. Not a long time ago, people still thought that the world’s resources were infinite and easily accessible, and could be unlimitedly used for several purposes, including in the creation of businesses. Obviously, this also applies to the cosmetics industry, where there is a strong market trend to formulate more sustainable cosmetics, with the concomitant need to establish different criteria regarding the sourcing and selection of raw materials. Initially, there was a transition from synthetic to natural and organic formulations, but currently producers also consider the responsible and ethical sourcing of ingredients as well as fair-trade. However, the process of replacing ingredients by sustainable alternatives in cosmetics is challenging. With this in mind, this talk aims to clarify how to make such a replacement and still obtain appealing and high-quality products, and highlight how sustainable ingredients can contribute to a more eco-conscious cosmetic product.

n Joana Marques Marto, Ph.D.

Joana Marques Marto received her M.Pharm. from the Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Lisbon (FFUL) in 2010. She started her professional career in the Portuguese pharmaceutical company, Laboratórios Atral. To further develop her career, she started her Ph.D. research work in January 2012 and obtained a doctoral degree in Pharmacy, specifically in the area of Pharmaceutical Technology, from the University of Lisbon in March 2016. She has been a qualified safety assessor of cosmetic products since 2012 with certification by Vrije Universiteit Brussels. From 2016 to 2019 she also worked as a researcher in Laboratório Edol – Produtos Farmacêuticos, S.A. Since 2017, she has been an integrated Ph.D. researcher in the Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa) and currently is also an Assistant Professor at FFUL. Since the beginning of her career, Joana Marto’s main research interests have been the development of medicines and cosmetics for topical application and the development of new drug delivery systems under the perspective of Quality by Design (QbD). Further, she has always focused on transposing fundamental research to applications (in the market). While developing her career, she strengthened this (continued on Page 16) by transferring the knowledge of Pharmaceutical Technology to the market and

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society, developing medicines available for hospitals and the pharmaceutical industry. She coordinates and is an active participant in projects mainly financed by the industry. Currently, Joana is the supervisor of one Ph.D. and several M.Sc. students, with several of these co-supervised by researchers from hospitals and from the pharmaceutical industry. Joana Marto has published 71 scientific papers, 5 book chapters, two national patent applications, and has more than 100 communications at scientific meetings. She was awarded several national and international prizes related to her scientific research and community services. She can be reached by e-mail at: jmmarto@ff.ulisboa.pt. ___________________________________________________________________________

A Novel Unique Technology to Develop Cosmetic Ingredients Inspired by Plant-Associated Microbiome: Phytofermentology

Isabelle Imbert

ike humans, plants possess their own microbiome playing a key role in plant health and reproductivity. The phytobiota is a “signature” of a plant linked to the plant species, the plant part, its geographical origin, and environmental pressures. The plant microbiome is important to consider in botanical sourcing and extract development as it influences phytocompound profiles and potential biological activities. A new biotechnology process called phytofermentology has been recently developed using the plant and its own microbiome as a natural factory. This 100% natural process is an auto-fermentation using only the natural plant microbiome (called the phytobiome) and without the addition of external ferments. This new green technology was developed with the objective to keep alive the phytobiomass and to create powerful extracts by spontaneous fermentation processes. Our research has demonstrated the potential of this new technology to help deliver natural extracts with potent phytomolecules creating a unique signature composition. Phytofermentology can be adapted to different type of plant parts including flowers. Recently, several extracts, including a Jasminum grandiflorum flower extract, were developed using this technology. Interestingly, analytical profiles obtained from plant extracts that were processed with preserved living microbiota, revealed enriched phytocompounds profiles versus classical extraction methods. This new biotechnology process was developed to reach one step further in the search for natural ingredients, delivering unique and innovative skin benefits.

n Isabelle Imbert, Ph.D.

Dr. Imbert joined Ashland LLC in 2007 through the company’s acquisition of Vincience in Sophia-Antipolis, France. She holds a Ph.D. in Molecular and Cellular Biology from the University of Montpellier (Institute of Human Genetics, CNRS, Montpellier, France). Dr. Imbert specialized in cancer research for her post-doctoral studies at St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital in Memphis. In 2001, she joined the cosmetic industry. Her main research interest consists of adapting the latest findings in the fields of biology and molecular sciences to the cosmetic industry. Since 2011, Dr. Imbert has held a global role in Ashland focusing on the development of innovative skin care technologies and concepts for biofunctionals. She is currently leading the R&D facilities for Biofunctionals and Naturals in Sophia-Antipolis, France. Part of her role consists in supporting Ashland’s biofunctional sustainability program by promoting local biodiversity and ethical sourcing. She frequently publishes in scientific and cosmetic journals on innovative research related to the development of Ashland biofunctionals. Dr. Imbert is a member of the Society of Investigative Dermatology, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and French Society of Cosmetology. She can be contacted by e-mail at: iimbert@ashland.com. ___________________________________________________________________________

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Marine Biotechnology at Nautilus Biosciences Croda

Russell Kerr

arine natural products (MNPs) are proving to have enormous value in a diversity of industry sectors. Organisms from diverse phylogenetic groups including sponges, corals, and tunicates, as well as bacteria and fungi, have proven to be excellent sources of bioactive natural products. While MNPs have found application in the pharmaceutical sector for the last few decades, MNPs have more recently been applied to actives in nutraceutical and personal care products. Nautilus is engaged in a program of discovery of bioactive agents for a variety of applications using its in-house marine microbial library. The presentation will outline the strategy and process of bioactive natural product discovery at Nautilus Croda with a focus on personal care products.

n Russell G. Kerr, Ph.D.

Russ Kerr received his B.Sc. in Chemistry and his Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry from the University of Calgary, and subsequently worked as a post-doctoral fellow at Stanford University with Professor Carl Djerassi (the “Father of the Pill”). Kerr joined Florida Atlantic University in 1991 where he established a research group in the field of marine natural products. In 2003 he co-founded and became the Director of the Center of Excellence in Biomedical and Marine Biotechnology in Florida—a consortium of public and private universities, a not-for-profit research institute, the Smithsonian, and several biotechnology companies. He is a Professor, a Tier I Canada Research Chair in Marine Natural Products, and the Lévesque Chair in Marine Natural Products in the Department of Chemistry and the Department of Biomedical Sciences, Atlantic Veterinary College, University of Prince Edward Island with over 170 publications and 25 patents. He is the recipient of various national awards for research in the U.S. and Canada and has represented the State of Florida and the U.S. on various scientific and policy committees including the National Academy of Sciences, USA. He serves on the editorial boards of six journals and on the scientific advisory board of three biotech companies. In 2007 he co-founded Nautilus Biosciences Canada, a marine microbial biotech company focused on the discovery of novel natural products and other biomolecules. Nautilus was acquired by Croda in 2018 and Kerr now is a Research Fellow with Croda. Kerr also serves as the Chairman of the Board of the PEI BioAlliance, a not-for-profit organization focused on the development of the bioscience industry. ___________________________________________________________________________

Development of Naturally-Derived Silicone Ionic Gel

Mana Tamami

o address the increasing demand for natural ingredients in the personal care industry, we developed a naturally-derived silicone ionic gel as an alternative to traditional silicone elastomers. In our research, we designed a new blend of fatty acid modified silicone elastomer and plantderived hemisqualane. One of the key attributes of the blend is its natural origin index of 0.63. This technology enables formulators to prepare naturalized products with remarkable sensorial properties. Ionic silicone gel is used in skin care formulations, offering excellent hydrophilic compatibility, pigment dispersion, and clear formulations as compared to traditional silicone elastomers. For example, the ionic silicone has the unique ability of forming a hydrogel with different water/polyol systems, which opens up new avenues for creating a variety of textures without an emulsifier. Our research demonstrates a new world of possibilities in naturalized beauty across skin care, sun care, color cosmetics, and hair care applications using this type of technology.

n Mana Tamami, Ph.D.

Mana graduated with a Ph.D. in Polymer Chemistry from Virginia Tech in 2012. She began her career as a synthetic polymer chemist in the personal care business at Lubrizol where she led the development of new skin care and sun care ingredients. Then, Mana moved into the applications space where she created formulations to highlight the key features and benefits of new Lubrizol ingredients across various categories. In 2019, Mana joined Momentive where she is currently a Formulation Technology Group Leader for the personal care business. In this role she leads the development of impactful prototypes, (continued on Page 18)

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which exemplify top performance of new ingredients. She focuses on directing global launch activities for Momentive’s natural technologies including natural emollients, natural elastomers, and natural powders. Mana also enjoys sharing her knowledge and experience with the new generation of cosmetic scientists by teaching a formulation course to Pharmaceutical Science students as an adjunct professor at Long Island University.

Poster Session Abstracts and Biographies

Barnet Products | 201-346-4620 www.barnetproducts.com

s part of the NYSCC Natural Ingredients Symposium, we will have a poster session bringing you the latest information on novel technologies introduced to the personal care industry. Be sure not to miss this key element of the symposium.

The Perfume Industry Wastes Give Rise to a Tremendous Opportunity of More Sustainable Cosmetic Active Ingredients POSTER 1

Anne Mandeau,1 Agnès Duprat,2 Lisa Fourny,1 Bernard Blerot,2 and Joan Attia1 1 Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by IFF, Toulouse, France 2 LMR Naturals by IFF, Grasse, France he fragrance industry commonly requires a huge amount of raw material and generates substantial waste in the process of extracting essential oils for the creation of perfumes. For instance, to produce 1 kg of lavender essential oil, 100 kg of the plant are harvested and 300 m2 must be dedicated to its cultivation. Creative solutions are needed for waste diversion and to spare natural resources. The key is to treat waste as a valuable commodity instead of viewing it as a problem, in accordance with the core principle of circular economy. Upcycling of fragrance waste products is a step forward on sustainability and opens new opportunities for the cosmetic industry. Indeed, when unaltered by the extraction process, fragrance waste still contains precious non-volatile phytochemicals. Upcycled pink berry and lavender extracts are good examples of new cosmetic active ingredients derived from fragrance waste. The upcycled pink berry extract has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties combined with the ability to modulate TRPV4-histamine-mediated induction of itching. Clinical studies have shown that this extract helps to maintain a healthy scalp by protecting it from erythema and flaking and thus may prevent the scalp from itching in conditions of increased moisture and friction. By strengthening the barrier function and mitigating the oxidative and inflammatory cascades, the upcycled lavender extract shields sensitive skin from indoor pollutants-induced irritation and enhances skin luminosity. In the long term, this upcycled extract, could thus protect the skin against premature aging due to pollution exposure. From the fragrance industry waste, a huge potential of opportunities is still available for future launches of sustainable upcycled cosmetic ingredients.

n Poster presenter: Evan Murphy, IFF-Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

Evan Murphy is the commercial manager for the Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ East Coast sales team. He has been in the personal care industry for 18 years with experience in R&D and sales working for top finished goods and raw material suppliers. Evan holds a B.S. degree in Chemical Engineering as well as Master’s degrees in Molecular and Cellular Biology and Business Management. ___________________________________________________________________________

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Comprehensive Studies of Cornflower Extract (Centaurea cyanus) Prove the Mechanism for Providing Relief and Skin Barrier Support for Sensitive Skin POSTER 2

Howard Epstein,1 Joerg von Hagen,2 Andrew Salazar,2 and Valerie Bicard-Benhamou2 1 EMD Electronics, Surface Solutions, an affiliate of Merck KGaA, Philadelphia, PA, USA 2 Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany lthough botanicals have been used for medicinal and cosmetic skin care for centuries, good scientific evidence supporting their efficacy is limited. This poster reviews some of the in vitro and in vivo studies used to confirm the medicinal activity of cornflower extract. Further, using infrared spectroscopy and nuclear magnetic resonance technology, the key active component of the botanical was identified. A supercritical CO2 extraction method was used to optimize extraction of the key component feruloylserotonin from cornflower (Centaurea cyanus). The extract was then evaluated using various biological assays. We used an in vitro enzymatic and a cellular investigation protocol to measure inhibition of COX-2 and LOX-5 to evaluate the extract for the ability to inhibit inflammation/suppression of skin irritation. Another ex vivo study of skin irritation suppression used TNF-α-induced inflammation on human umbilical vein endothelial cells to evaluate blocking of adhesion and transmigration of monocytes to the endothelial cells. A third in vitro study to evaluate the ability to mitigate chronic skin inflammation using chemokines (CCL17 and CCL22) was conducted. A fourth study evaluated antioxidant activity using the 2,2- diphenyl1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay. Finally, two in vivo clinical-type studies were conducted to confirm the ability of the cornflower extract to provide fast skin relief. The first study involved 27 volunteers with very sensitive and dry skin. Volunteer’s skin was stressed by exposure to surfactant for two weeks, after the first week their skin was treated with 1.0% cornflower extract for a week. Reduction in skin redness, roughness, and self-reported skin itching was evaluated by an expert grader. Another clinical-type study with 86 volunteers evaluated the ability of 1% and 3% cornflower extract to prevent redness, itching, and skin barrier damage. The final study collected suction blister cell fluid from the volunteers after the two-week stress study to measure various biomarkers for itching, inflammation, and immune response.

n Poster Presenter: Howard Epstein, Ph.D., EMD Electronics, Surface Solutions, an affiliate of Merck KGaA

Howard Epstein is Director of Technical Services for EMD Electronics, Surface Solutions, Philadelphia, PA., an affiliate of Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany. He was a scholar in residence at the University of Cincinnati department of dermatology and received his Ph.D. in Pharmacognosy from the Union Institute and University in Cincinnati, Ohio during that time. He has been in the cosmetics industry for many years since he began his career formulating cosmetics for Estée Lauder, Maybelline, Max Factor, Bausch & Lomb, and Kao Brands. In addition to his interest in botanicals, Howard previously served as editor of the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Science and is a member of the International Academy of Dermatology. He is on the editorial board of the dermatological journals Clinics in Dermatology and SKINmed representing the cosmetics industry to dermatologists. Howard has authored chapters in various cosmetic technology textbooks including various chapters in Harry’s Cosmeticology, and holds eight patents and two patent applications. He received the Maison G. de Navarre Medal Award in 2020, the society’s highest honor supporting the best (continued on Page 20) interests of the cosmetics and personal care industry. ___________________________________________________________________________

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Improving the Green Chemistry Profiles of Cosmetic Formulations through Specific Ingredient Choices: A Case Study POSTER 3

Eva Thompson and N. Chang The Estée Lauder Companies, Melville, NY, USA Introduction

he Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) “Green Score” tool codifies key principles of green chemistry into formulation design, quantitatively assessing the green chemistry performance of ingredients used and formulas created. The tool is used to drive continuous green chemistry innovation throughout the ELC-developed product portfolio. The aim of this work was to assess the impact of three types of specific ingredient choices on formula Green Scores, and to analyze any related environmental benefits to better understand the potential systematic impact of the tool. Green Score data were collected and analyzed for three types of ingredient choices across skincare, makeup, and haircare products. Specifically, direct replacement of synthetic butylene glycol (BG) with natural Brontide BG, direct substitution of non-chemically equivalent hair conditioning polymers, and complex substitution of decamethylcyclopentacyloxane with various alternatives. Related environmental impact data were collected from suppliers (e.g., GHG emissions) and internally (e.g., purchase volume). Data were analyzed to assess the full magnitude impact of each ingredient choice on the formulas’ green chemistry profiles. Among the 18 reformulations analyzed, each ingredient choice resulted in increased formula Green Scores versus the original benchmark formulas; score increases ranged from 0.36% to 23.89% due to ingredient percent in formula and efficacy of replacements, among other reasons. Each ingredient choice also catalyzed unique lifecycle environmental impact benefits, for example a 110,000 lb. reduction in GHG emissions during FY2021 due to the switch in butylene glycols. Results from these analyses demonstrate that specific ingredient choices can positively impact formula Green Scores and yield tangible environmental benefits which are not obvious through direct score comparison, but which indicate the positive lifecycle benefits of the tool. The Green Score thus guides formulators to improve their formula green chemistry profiles, and take a systems thinking approach to sustainable formulation design.

n Poster Presenter: Eva Thompson, The Estée Lauder Companies

Eva Thompson is a Senior Scientist on the Green Chemistry team within the Product Safety and Regulatory Affairs division of the Estée Lauder Companies’ Global R&D. In her role, she builds the green chemistry innovation capabilities of R&D through supporting ELC’s Green Score program and its relationship with formulators, labs, and brands. Eva has an M.Sc. in Green and Sustainable Chemistry from the University of Nottingham (U.K.) and a B.S. in Biochemistry from the University of Michigan. ___________________________________________________________________________

Connecting the Biology of Skin Touch Sensors to the Emotions with a Phytofermented Jasminum Grandiflorum Extract POSTER 4

Florian Labarrade, Elodie Oger, Audrey Le Mestr, Armelle Perrin, Ludivine Mur, Catherine Serre, Yolène Ferreira, Céline Meyrignac, and Isabelle Imbert Ashland, Global Skin Research Center, Sophia Antipolis, France ge-related changes in skin mechanics have a major impact on the aesthetic perception of skin. In skin, multiple mechanisms exist to sense, transduce, and transmit force. These mechanisms include mechanosensitive ion channels and E-cadherin-based cell-cell adhesions. Keratinocytes

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express the mechanoreceptor piezo1 and mediate touch sensation by detecting and encoding tactile information to sensory neurons. Moreover, pleasant touch has been shown to trigger oxytocin release, a molecule linked to increased levels of social interaction, well-being, and anti-stress effects. In this study, a 100% natural and COSMOS standards compliant Jasminum grandiflorum extract was developed with a new extraction process. The extract was designed to mediate piezo1 activation, to mimic pleasant touch and promote release of oxytocin. The new extraction process uses the phytobiome of jasmine flowers to orchestrate the biotransformation of phytocompounds without addition of exogenous microorganisms. Expression of piezo1, E-cadherin, and oxytocin were monitored by immunohistochemistry and the ELISA assay. Antagonist Dooku1 was used for piezo1 receptor inhibition. A clinical study was designed to evaluate the well-being and wellaging of subjects applying a formulation containing the botanical extract vs. placebo. In ex vivo skin, piezo1 blockage caused epidermal sagging, structural damages, and showed a decrease of E-cadherin and oxytocin levels. The application of the Jasminum grandiflorum extract preserved the skin morphology, maintained E-cadherin and oxytocin levels. At the clinical level, the study revealed an improvement of the overall well-being, salivary oxytocin level, and emotional state of volunteers after 28 days of application of the formulated botanical extract. Our research suggests that the application of the Jasminum grandiflorum extract could mimic pleasant touch through the activation of the piezo1 channel in skin. The extract could activate the oxytocinergic system, including its powerful anti-aging effect, and promoting the expression of pleasant emotions.

n Poster Presenter: Isabelle Imbert, Ph.D., Ashland

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate: Are they Identical Vitamin C Tetra Esters? Not Really! POSTER 5

Ratan K. Chaudhuri, William Swindell, and Krzysztof Bojanowski Sytheon, Parsippany, NJ, USA

ongstanding challenges of topical ascorbic acid (AA, Vitamin C) have been related to skinpenetration and the stability of AA as an active ingredient. AA is a water-soluble hydrophilic anion with high polarity, which is repelled by the stratum corneum and can only penetrate skin under acidic condition (pH <3.5). Moreover, upon exposure to ambient air and UV light, AA undergoes oxidation to dehydro-L-ascorbic acid in a reaction facilitated by elevated temperatures and in the presence of high pH, metal ions, and dissolved oxygen. Additionally, AA can react with singlet oxygen to generate more persistent reactive oxygen species, such as H2O2, consequently AA may function as a pro-oxidant in certain circumstances. While both water-soluble and oil-soluble derivatives of AA are widely used in cosmetic and therapeutic products, one of the most popular forms today is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDC), prepared by esterifying AA with 2-hexyldecanoic acid. As an oil-soluble derivative, THDC not only improves chemical stability, but its lipophilic nature facilitates delivery into the epidermis and dermis where it undergoes (continued on Page 22) intracellular enzymatic conversion to free ascorbic acid (AA). Importantly, free AA

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must be released by THDC before its skin benefits can be realized. Thus, THDC is a precursor of AA. It is well over 25 years, THDC (CAS # 183476-82-6) and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (CAS #32759427-4) were construed as being equivalent structures, in fact, they represent two different chemistries with different CAS numbers. While both are esters of ascorbic acid, THDC comes from reaction with 2-hexyldecanoic acid whereas ascorbyl tetraisopalmitates derives from reaction with isopalmitic acid (14methylpentadecanoic acid). Two different fatty acids that when esterified with ascorbic acid yield two unique products. This misnomer was finally corrected by Sytheon working in close collaboration with the Personal Care Product Council (PCPC) and the Chemical Abstract Services (CAS #provider). Recently, Sytheon has also demonstrated that stability of THDC under an oxidant rich environment and its skin benefits can be improved by combining it with acetyl zingerone (AZ). This work was published in 2021 in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences, Volume 22, pp. 8756. Our research provides new insights into the effects of THDC in a human skin model and how these effects can be modulated through combination with AZ as a stabilizing antioxidant. This provides a step towards reaching the full potential of ascorbate as an active ingredient in topical preparations.

n Poster Presenter: Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Ph.D., Sytheon

Ratan K. Chaudhuri is the first employee, President, and CEO of Sytheon, which he founded in 2006. Sytheon is an innovative global specialty ingredient company growing over 50% annually (www.sytheonltd.com). Sytheon’s global headquarters is located in Parsippany, New Jersey, USA with its European affiliate in France and Asian affiliate in Singapore. Ratan is a humble entrepreneur by heart and a strategic thinker with strong leadership skills. He has developed numerous best-in-class products for the personal care industry. Two of his most recent introductions are Sytenol A (INCI: Bakuchiol) and Synovea HR (INCI: Hexylresorcinol), which he developed with an incredible team. Ratan holds and is the author of over ninety publications and six book chapters. over 100 U.S. and international patents, Prior to starting Sytheon, Ratan held technical management positions at EMD Chemicals (Merck KGaA) and ISP Chemicals (Ashland LLC) in the USA. ___________________________________________________________________________

Skin Care Actives Through Biotechnology POSTER 6

Miller Yan Sino Lion, Florham Park, NJ, USA

lean beauty products desired by modern consumers must start with natural, green, and sustainable raw materials. One of the greenest approaches to raw material creation involves the utilization of various biotechnology processes. Products made by fermentation are increasingly popular. BioYoung BFL (Bifida Ferment Lysate) claims include firming and anti-aging effects, skin energizing and repair, and strengthening of the barrier function. BioYoung LFL (Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate) soothes and repairs skin, an antioxidant that promotes even skin tone and suits all skin types. BioYoung FGL (Biosaccharide Gum-1) is a moisturizing and texture-improving agent, with film-forming, skin repair, smoothing, and soothing properties. In addition, ferments may play a useful role in helping maintain the skin’s microbiome to maintain a healthy mix of flora. The mechanism of action of all these materials has been suggested, and the moisturizing, antiaging, and anti-wrinkle effects established in laboratory studies. The use of these materials in skin care can satisfy the types of claims desired by demanding users of contemporary clean beauty products using the most advanced tools of biotechnology.

n Poster Presenter: Miller Yan, Ph.D., Sino Lion

Miller Yan serves as Business Development Director at Ascend Biotech USA, a Sino Lion company. She has a biotechnology and food science background, and obtained her Ph.D. degree in Agriculture from Okayama university in Japan. Her undergraduate degree is in Food Science. She spent nearly seven years studying abroad in Japan after college. The focus of her Master’s and Ph.D. work was postharvest research at the genetic-level about ripening and overripe using 22

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tomatoes as a model. She worked as the Japan Regional Technical Support Manager for Genscript Biotech for seven years. Work involved gene services, protein and antibody services, gene therapy (e.g., AAV), peptides services, etc. She is now based in Nanjing, China. ___________________________________________________________________________

Ashwagandha (Withania Somnifera) Seed Plant Exosome-Like Nanovesicles Promote In Vitro Cellular Regeneration of Human Dermal Hair Follicle, Endothelial, and Fibroblast Cells POSTER 7

Giorgio Dell’Acqua and Rebecca Scotland Nutrafol, New York, NY, USA

o overcome inherent drawbacks associated with human-derived platelet-rich plasma (PRP) and exosome therapeutics in the treatment of hair thinning and other dermatological conditions, plant exosome-like nanovesicles were derived from Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) seeds (AshPELNs) to test their regenerative capacity. Prior Ash-PELN studies indicate topical human safety, tolerability, and anagen active hair growth prolongation. The regenerative capacity of Ash-PELNs was evaluated in vitro by cellular proliferation, angiogenesis, and growth factor stimulation measures. Ash-PLEN 1E+07 nanovesicles/ml concentrations were assessed. Proliferation was measured by bromodeoxyuridine incorporation in stressed (300 nM hydrocortisone) human hair follicle dermal papilla cells (hHFDPCs). Angiogenesis was evaluated via the migration assay (Oris, Platypus Technologies) in human endothelial cells (HUVEC) and dermal fibroblasts (hDF); HUVEC tubulogenesis by fluorescence microscopic tubule quantitation; and hDF VEGF-A protein expression ELISA (Quantikine, R&D Systems). hHFDPC secreted growth factor protein expression was quantitated by immunoassay (MAGPIX, Luminex). One-way analysis of variance with Tukey’s post-hoc statistical analysis was performed (n=3; p<0.05 considered significant). Ash-PELNs increased hHFDPC proliferation (1E+10; 11.9%±6.8%, p<0.05), HUVEC and hDF migration (1E+10; 82.8%±6.8% and 67.0%±15.2%, respectively, p<0.05), HUVEC tubulogenesis (1E+09; 54.9%±10.7, p<0.001) and hDF VEGF-A expression (1E+09; 39.9%±14.7%, p<0.05). Ash-PELNs also dose-dependently increased hHFDPC secreted LIF, PLGF-1, FGF-2, and VEGFA growth factor expression (1E+10; 115.1%±26.0%, p<0.01; 139.1%±21.9%, p<0.01; 90.2%± 24.4%, p<0.05; and 102.8%±9.0%, p<0.01, respectively). Ash-PELNs show regenerative capacity in several cell lines suggesting a potential use as a plant-derived topical alternative or adjunct to human-derived PRP or exosome treatments for hair, scalp, and skin conditions.

n Poster Presenter: Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D., Nutrafol

Giorgio Dell’Acqua is currently the Chief Scientific Officer at Nutrafol. He is also the 2022 Chair of the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. After obtaining his Ph.D. in Cell Biology in 1989, Giorgio worked in Academia for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research. Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 22 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. During his career, he directed R&D, innovation, science, and product development at multiple companies. He has helped bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market, authored more than 80 publications in medicine and cosmetic science, and holds two patents. Giorgio has also been a keynote speaker on clean beauty, natural ingredients, and sustainability at (continued on Page 24) numerous venues in the personal care industry. ___________________________________________________________________________

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Green, Natural, and Sustainable Cleansing Technology with 100% Natural Origin and COSMOS Certification – Best Alternative to Sulfates POSTER 8

Evelyn G. Su Sino Lion USA, Florham Park, NJ, USA

ulfate-free has been a well-established trend in personal cleansing, especially after New York State signed into law the “1,4-Dioxane Prohibition Bill” in December 2019. 1,4-dioxane is present as an impurity in many ethoxylated products, including the widely used surfactant sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES). It is our strong belief that amino acid-based surfactants are the best alternative to sulfates due to their intrinsic compatibility with human skin, scalp, and hair, as well as their excellent environmental profile and superior consumer attributes and performance. Out of the amino acid-based surfactants commercially available, glutamate and alaninate are the most sustainable with 100% natural origin, renewability, and biodegradability. In addition, glutamate and alaninate exhibit superior performance for personal cleansing, with glutamate used primarily for skin cleansing formulation and alaninate for hair formulations. Glutamate and alaninate surfactants are safe, mild, and environmentally friendly. They are produced from 100% renewable feedstocks. Glutamic acid and alanine are made naturally by fermentation from natural, renewable, and sustainable sources such as sugar beets and sugar cane. The fatty acid is also made from natural, renewable, and sustainable sources. This results in surfactants with a 100% Natural Origin Index (NOI) according to ISO 16128 and COSMOS certification. In addition, our patented manufacturing process is solvent free. Formulating with glutamate or alaninate surfactants improves the overall foam structure of your products, imparting dense, elastic, and stable foam, creating luxurious high-end products. Furthermore, these surfactants are preservative free, biodegradable, and can save water in rinse-off applications providing a low carbon and water footprint.

n Poster Presenter: Evelyn G. Su, Ph.D., Sino Lion USA

Dr. Evelyn Su is the President, Co-Founder, and CSO of Sino Lion, a leading innovative materials company focusing on green chemistry and biotechnology platforms. Dr. Su obtained her Ph.D. in Chemistry in 1993 from University of Connecticut and worked as a Scientist at Pfizer during 1993-1995. In July 1995, Dr. Su co-founded the cosmetic ingredient business for Sino Lion USA and moved its operation to the World Trade Center (Twin Towers) in New York City where she worked until its horrific destruction on September 11, 2001. She feels extremely lucky that she is still alive today. She published the book entitled, Asian Botanicals, in the USA and numerous peer reviewed academic journal articles. Dr. Su has given scores of invited talks as either a keynote or invited speaker around the world and has chaired several well-known conferences. Dr. Su has extensive experience in commercializing innovative technologies into marketable sustainable products. Under her leadership, Sino Lion has become a Global Leader in “affordable, green, natural, and sustainable” ingredients and strives to be a game changer, disrupter, and/or enabler for the circular economy for materials in the consumer goods industry. ___________________________________________________________________________

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A Novel Approach to Evaluate Oil Penetration into Hair Fibers POSTER 9

Ernesta Malinauskyte,1 Rezma Shrestha,1 Prasun Bandyopadhyay,2 S.K. Luthra,2 Karthika Urban,2 and Pankhuri Chandani2 1 TRI Princeton, Princeton, NJ, USA 2 Dabur Research and Development Centre, Sahibabad, Ghaziabad, India he penetration of oil into hair has long been a hot topic. Every oil manufacturer would like to claim their oils penetrate into hair fibers providing positive benefits. However, literature analysis suggests that the intensity of oil penetration and its effects on hair fibers fluctuate from publication to publication. This leaves the impression that something is missing. This study concentrates on the evaluation of oils penetrating into hair fibers under the strictest conditions. Two testing methods are utilized for the task. Nile red is fluorescent dye in lipid-rich environments. We prepared Nile red solutions in various oils and soaked hair in those solutions for 24 hours at 30 °C. We meticulously cleaned the hair of excess oil and cross-sectioned it for fluorescence analysis. As the stain is not covalently bound to any oil components, there is no way to truly know whether oil penetrated together with the dye or the dye was pushed into the hair by oils. Furthermore, the hydrophobicity of the oil may affect Nile red fluorescence intensity. To avoid over-estimation of oil penetration into hair via fluorescence measurements, we employed a gravimetric technique that evaluates true oil penetration into hair fibers, leaving the fluorescence technique to visualize the location where oil penetrated into hair fibers.

n Poster Presenter: Ernesta Malinauskyte, Ph.D., TRI Princeton

Dr. Ernesta Malinauskyte earned her Ph.D. in Chemical Engineering at Kaunas University of Technology (Lithuania). She has ~10 years of academic and professional experience in food engineering and hair sciences. Currently at TRI Princeton in the role of Hair Research Director, Ernesta is responsible for leading a team of results-driven researchers investigating various aspects of hair fiber science including chemical and physical treatments, environmental insults (UV, particles, and ozone), as well as developing new claims substantiation methods for all types of hair and devices. Ernesta and the team also work on expanding TRI Princeton’s research capabilities in the analytical sciences, microbiome, hair and skin substitutes, and hemp products used in the textile and skincare areas. ___________________________________________________________________________

Moisturization Studies of a Poly(ɣ-glutamic acid) Derivative

POSTER 10

Stan Djurich Bio Component Research (BCR)., Elmwood Park, NJ, USA

novel ingredient based on poly(ɣ-glutamic acid) (INCI: water and propanediol and polyglutamic acid and phenoxyethanol) was tested for its moisturization properties. This ingredient, sold under the tradename BioWave BCR, is a natural, aqueous-based, high molecular weight (2600 kDa) amino acid polymer specifically designed to enhance skin moisturization. It is a film forming polymer that provides highly efficient thickening and superior texture while enhancing the much sought-after moisture binding and retention properties desired in skin care applications. The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) consists of amino-acids, mucopolysaccharides, ceramides, glycerin, sodium PCA, urea, and other components, which exist in the stratum corneum and play an important role in maintaining moisture in the skin. High molecular weight poly(ɣ-glutamic acid) demonstrated a boosting effect on the NMF and is a vital component in keeping the NMF at the optimum efficiency level to maintain the sought after healthy and youthful skin appearance. In vitro studies compare high and low molecular weight poly(ɣ-glutamic acid) to hyaluronic acid, monitoring the improvement of moisturization. High molecular weight poly(ɣ-glutamic acid) is four times better in retaining moisture on the skin than either hyaluronic acid or low molecular weight poly(ɣ-glutamic acid). (continued on Page 26)

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n Poster Presenter: Stan Djurich, Bio Component Research

Stan Djurich is the Technical Sales Manager at Bio Component Research (BCR). He has been at BCR for 5 years, starting on the R&amp;D side. He used his background in nutrition and biochemistry to help develop BCR’s Bio-Hacked postbiotic fermentation technology. He partnered with BCR’s sales team a few years ago to generate excitement about all of the technologies and ingredients at BCR. From Bio Transformation to custom Bio-Hacked ferments, BCR provides the personal care industry with clean and natural actives at the intersection of science and nature.

NYSCC Golf Tournament July 25th Crystal Springs Golf Course Hamburg, NJ

Save Save the the Dates! Dates!

NYSCC Culinary Event September 29th Natirar Peapack and Gladstone, NJ 26

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2022 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org June 30 July 25 August 9

August 13 September 8

Natural Ingredients Symposium – Brooklyn Botanical Garden, Brooklyn, NY NYSCC Golf Tournament – Crystal Springs Golf Course, Hamburg, NJ Environmental and Social Impacts of Cosmetic Products – At Home Live – Virtual Event NYSCC Fishing Trip – Atlantic Highlands, NJ Sunscreens – The Latest Updates and the Impact on the Environment – Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ

September 15

Developing Eco-Conscious Sunscreens – At Home Live – Virtual Event

September 29

NYSCC Culinary Event – Natirar, Peapack and Gladstone, NJ

October 12

Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity, Social Progress, Circularity – Central Park Boathouse, New York, NY

October 19

Strategy for the Future of a Sustainable Personal Care Industry – At Home Live – Virtual Event

November 8

Scalp and Skin Microbiome – Novel Approaches to Formulate Gentle and Effective Products – Nanina’s in the Park, Belleville, NJ

December 1

Sustainable Packaging and Componentry – At Home Live – Virtual Event

December 13-14

TBD

SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase – L.A. Live JW Marriott, Los Angeles, CA NYSCC Supports Education Night – Stay tuned for information on our annual event

Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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NYSCC Scholarships 2022 Deadline for submissions is June 30, 2022.

ROUMELIA ALINA INCLUSION AND DIVERSITY SCHOLARSHIP Value-based scholarship awarded to applicants who exemplify hard work, perseverance, compassion, and collaboration in the advancement of inclusion and diversity initiatives. • Must be an undergraduate sophomore/ junior/senior or graduate student. • Must have a minimum of a 3.0 GPA. • Must be enrolled in a B.S. or M.S. program related to cosmetic science. • Must submit a 500-1,000 word essay explaining why you feel you embody hard work, perseverance, compassion, and collaboration, while also incorporating inclusion and diversity into your everyday life/work.

FUTURE OF SUSTAINABILITY SCHOLARSHIP

Designed to encourage cosmetic scientists to start thinking about how the industry can address major sustainability challenges. • Must be an undergraduate sophomore/ junior/senior or graduate student. • Must have a minimum of a 3.0 GPA. • Must be enrolled in a B.S. or M.S. program related to cosmetic science. • Must submit a 500-1,000 word essay identifying a common practice in the cosmetic industry that is a sustainability concern and how you think this issue can be addressed by scientists and cosmetic organizations.

Award Amount: $5,000 (one-time payment)

GENERAL EDUCATION SCHOLARSHIP

Award for undergraduate and graduate students who wish to pursue a career in cosmetic science. • Must be an undergraduate sophomore/ junior/senior or graduate student. • Must have a minimum of a 3.0 GPA. • Must be enrolled in a B.S. or M.S. program related to cosmetic science. • Must submit a 500 word essay about why the NYSCC should grant you a scholarship. What do you intend to do with your degree upon completion? Are you currently involved in any cosmetic science related initiatives, or do you plan to be involved in cosmetic related initiatives in the future? Award Amount: $2,500 (one-time payment)

BOARD CHOICE SCHOLARSHIP

Created to inspire students to reimagine the future of the NYSCC. Awardee will be chosen based on a vote by our executive board. • Must be an undergraduate sophomore/ junior/senior or graduate student. • Must have a minimum of a 3.0 GPA. • Must be enrolled in a B.S. or M.S. program related to cosmetic science. • Must submit one letter of recommendation. • Must submit a 1-3 minute video answering the following questions. Whatis the most impactful thing the NYSCChas done for you? What suggestions doyou have for the board to advance the chapter over the next 5 years? What do you plan to do with the scholarship money? Award Amount: $7,500 (one-time payment)

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NYSCC Grants 2022 UPSKILLING GRANT

MENTEE NEXT STEPS GRANT

Designed to help you take your credentials and qualifications to the next level. It can be used for short courses on topics that are specific to career advancement. Special consideration will be given to unemployed members who need to obtain skills to help them get back to work. • Must be an active member of the NYSCC. • Must be employed in the cosmetic industry or recently unemployed. • Must have a LinkedIn profile (your profilelink will be needed for the application). • Must submit a 250+ word proposal telling us the cost of the upskilling course you would like to take and how it will help you advance your career to the next level. • Must be willing to update the scholarship committee once the course has been completed.

Exclusive to NYSCC mentees who need financial support to reach the next steps in their education and career journeys. The grant can be used for short courses on topics that are specific to career and personal advancement. • Must be an active member of the NYSCC. • Must be in the NYSCC mentor-mentee program. • Mentors must submit a recommendation letter explaining why their mentee deserves this grant and how it will help them achieve their future goals. • Mentees must submit a 250-500 word essay telling us how much grant money is needed and how it will be used. Award Amount: up to $5,000 (based on the exact amount needed)

Award Amount: up to $5,000 (based on the exact amount needed)

GRANT FOR EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS

Awarded to organizations building strategic initiatives related to cosmetic science. • Must be an institution that is promoting enrichment and advancement of the cosmetic science industry. • Must submit a proposal explaining what the grant funds will be used for and the exact amount that is needed. • Must submit a W9. Award Amount: up to $10,000 (based on the exact amount needed)

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