October 2020 • Vol. 26 • Issue 8
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History of the Evolution of Two-in-One Shampoo Technology …by Paul Thau
hree months after I rejoined the Warner-Lambert Personal Care R&D Group in 1970, I was invited to attend a seminar at Union Carbide’s R&D facilities in Tarrytown, NY. The topic was the introduction of a new cationic polymer, known by the tradename Polymer JR. This presentation was made by Earl Richardson, Ph.D. In his introduction, I recall distinctly that this new polymer was claimed to be compatible with amphoteric surfactants, but not with anionic surfactants. Several months later, Noxell Inc. introduced a shampoo containing a blend of amphoteric surfactants containing Polymer JR. However, this product was not received well in the marketplace because it did not foam sufficiently and was too substantive to hair. I maintained my interest in potential applications for Polymer JR and did some exploratory work with this interesting ingredient. One day, Robert Anguillo, who worked with me in the Exploratory Laboratory at Warner-Lambert, suggested that we investigate if Polymer JR could contribute any conditioning properties to hair if incorporated into a basic shampoo based upon TEA lauryl sulfate or ammonium lauryl sulfate. He proceeded to prepare several trial formulations. The only negative property that these prototype formulations exhibited was slight haze in appearance; both were otherwise physically compatible. However, we needed a methodology to measure if this prototype shampoo would provide conditioning properties to hair. I recalled from my previous position at Ciba/Madison Labs, when evaluating a cationic shampoo developed in Switzerland, that rubine dye was useful for measuring substantivity to hair. Robert and I used this methodology to determine if the Polymer JR in his formulations was substantive to hair. After initial studies, we became excited to find that the moderate level of coloration imparted to hair swatches indicated substantivity. We conducted a limited use study with one formulation to evaluate cleansing and conditioning. At that time, we did not understand the exact mechanism by which Polymer JR provided conditioning. However, we proceeded to write a patent application for our innovative formulations. A US patent application was submitted on November 30, 1971 and US Patent 3,816,616 was issued on June 11, 1974. An excerpt from this patent is shown below: “This compatibility is totally unexpected since in addition to the general knowledge that anionic substances and cationics tend to salt out of solution, the technical information supplied by the maker of Polymer JR states that: aqueous solutions of Polymer JR are not compatible with anionic detergents.” In 1975, the Warner-Lambert marketing department decided to deemphasize activities related to shampoos and hair conditioners. Union Carbide was able to acquire the rights to our patent from Warner-Lambert allowing them to promote (continued on Page 4)
EFFECT PIGMENTS SYMPOSIUM ...see pages 6-7 for more information.
2020 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chairman Giorgino Macalino gmacalin@estee.com Chair-Elect Susanna Fernandes fernandes.susie@gmail.com Treasurer Stephen Carter treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Mohamed Abdulla treasurer-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Leor Fay Tal secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Sonia Dawson advisor@nyscc.org Program Maria Mo program@nyscc.org By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Cathy Piterski cathy.piterski@givaudan.com Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com
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Letter from the Chairman …Giorgino Macalino
ell, September was quite the month in my atypical year as Chairman. It was one of the busiest months of programming in NYSCC history—granted all done virtually. We recorded over 30 hours of education content to present to our membership! At the start of the month, the NYSCC’s “At Home Live” webinar series featured “Upcycling: Coffee and Beauty – What Else?” sponsored by Givaudan, with Melanie Dupret presenting from Paris on the demand by consumers for more responsibility and sustainability from cosmetic brands. Over 330 registrants signed-on to hear about this new initiative. The month continued with an immersive color experience: The World of Color, chaired and moderated by Yana Melnikova. This program was a collaborative vision brought to life with a multisensory approach. The virtual program touched upon and explored every element of color through inspiring talks, interviews, and conversations with experts who live, create, and inspire others with color! We then launched NYSCC’s Suppliers’ Day “At Home Live” Week of Beauty: a five-day virtual adventure that offered unmatched daily programming produced in conjunction with industry partners, and two days of live “engagement” with Suppliers’ Day exhibitors that fostered over 2,724 chat messages and generated more than 10,000 leads collectively. While I firmly believe nothing can replace the live Suppliers’ Day Experience in New York City, moving forward a blended program of live and virtual content will be woven into the event. Suppliers’ Day kicked off with a fun Virtual Ribbon Cutting at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York City, and was highlighted by the presentation of the CEW Supplier’s Award Winner—Ashland, Inc. for Mineral-Based Sun Stick SPF 50. Late afternoon sessions, geared towards future cosmetic chemists, were also featured. While we couldn’t offer students a live laboratory experience, we provided them with a “90 Day Survival Guide,” which is equally if not more valuable in these incredible times! Programming over the week continued until Friday, October 2nd and covered everything from raw materials, anti-aging, FDA regulatory issues, PCPC hot topics, CEW’s Supplier’s Award finalist panel, INDIE 360, IFSCC’s presentation in the World of Chemistry, and Sun Care. We are grateful to our education partners who made this happen: CEW, HAPPI Magazine, IBA (formerly ICMAD), IFSCC, PCPC, and SCC National as well as Cosmetics Design and Personal Care Magazine. These partnerships are key for us to offer unique programs to our members and the industry at large. We will continue to expand upon these relationships moving forward. The month of October will continue to offer unique programming starting with the first ever Effect Pigments Symposium, chaired by Adam Rosen. The live panel discussion takes place on Tuesday, October 20th at 9:00 a.m. (EDT) with on-demand content being offered from October 13th through October 26th. Topics include formulation, substrates, microplastics, and surface treatments. Register now for the live program to ensure access to all content when it starts. On October 28th, the At Home Live Webinar Series will host The Blue Light Myth. This event will focus on learning how to characterize the light being emitted from our digital devices and to understand its effects on the skin. This program is available free-of-charge, so mark your calendars now and plan to join! Finally, November programming will include Clean Beauty, moderated by Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Chair of the NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee. We will also host a new officer installation program. December will allow us to offer more engagement as our chapter participates in the SCC National Event as an exhibitor with a Mentor Mentee Virtual Mixer highlighting our offerings. Stay-tuned… I’m not done yet! We have a few more programs and unique virtual offerings formulating now! Thank you for your continued support of all of the ideas that have become reality as we navigated a very unusual 2020! REMINDER: the vote for the 2021 Board is underway. Please participate. And, please consider becoming involved in the NYSCC chapter. You will not regret it!
Social Media Estelle Gu socialmedia@nyscc.org 2
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2020 NYSCC Events Calendar
• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org
October 20 Effect Pigments Symposium October 28 At Home Live Webinar Series – The Blue Light Myth November 19 At Home Live Webinar Series – Clean Beauty December 15 NYSCC Mentor Mentee Mixer
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History of the Evolution of Two-in-One Shampoo Technology
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Polymer JR to the cosmetic industry. Around that same time, and for many years thereafter, E.D. Goddard, Ph.D. (Des) and his colleagues at Union Carbide wrote numerous articles related to cationic polymer and anionic surfactant interactions. Much of what Des and his staff members accomplished over the years was summarized in a conference paper presented by Vince Gruber, Ph.D. at the Annual SCC Meeting in December 2008 and later published in the May 2009 issue of the Journal of Cosmetic Science. The task of depositing conditioning materials onto freshly shampooed hair was usually considered a secondary step. This idea changed dramatically with the invention of Polymer JR by Union Carbide, which is a quaternized form of hydroxyethylcellulose (INCI name: polyquaternium-10). Des Goddard used radio-labeled polyquaternium-10 to elicit and identify the important factors that influence direct deposition on hair, including such things as cationic charge, molecular weight, and surfactant type. More importantly, the interaction of polyquaterium-10 with anionic shampoo ingredients creates a phase separation condition called coacervation, a process shown to be enhanced during the dilution stage of shampoo application. Through this process the deposition of unique materials, such as silicone conditioners and anti-dandruff agents, can be controlled. Basic two-in-one shampoo and conditioner products based upon polyquaterinium-10 were moderately successful for specialized hair care applications during the late 1970s, particularly for ethnic hair care products. However, it was not until the early 1980s that polyquaternium-10 became very popular when P&G introduced two-in-one shampoos containing dimethicone to help improve the conditioning properties of dry hair. Although, it should be noted that a number of patents were filed starting in the 1960s for incorporating silicones in shampoos. Regardless, this technology did not have market success until the 1980s when P&G patented a blend of anionic surfactants, silicones, and other ingredients using a special manufacturing procedure. It became the basis of a number of top-selling shampoo brands, such as Pert Plus and Pantene Pro V. I was not able locate the original P&G patents; however, US Patent 5,756,436 incorporates their original claims, in addition to some refinements.
Pros and Cons for Using Two-In-One Shampoos
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One great benefit of two-in-one shampoos is that it saves time in the shower from the usual latherrinse-condition-wait-rinse process. This is especially convenient when traveling. In addition, it can be less expensive than buying two separate products, and it saves space in the bathroom. Two-in-one shampoos also work well for individuals with short hair, which doesn’t require a lot of conditioning. Although two-in-one shampoos contain conditioners, they typically do not condition as well as the best shampoo and conditioner in separate products. Two-in-one shampoos also tend to build up on the hair. After several uses, this buildup will cause hair to look dull and dry. A clarifying shampoo may be necessary to remove the buildup from hair that has been consistently washed with a two-in-one shampoo. 4
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Concluding Remarks
It is obvious from this survey on the evolution of two-in-one shampoo technology that significant advances have been made over the past 50 years. What had been an unlikely concept to achieve in one product, had truly become feasible based upon incremental advances in raw material technology and creativity on the part of many individuals in our industry. Numerous expired patents on this subject are available for review to stimulate future advances. ____________________________________________________________
About the Author
Paul Thau was employed at Cosmair/L’OrÊal USA for over 22 years, during which time he served as Assistant Vice-President of Cosmetic R&D and then as Senior Research Fellow. His cosmetic industry experience spans more than fifty years and includes R&D positions at Revlon, Bristol-Myers, CIBA Pharmaceutical, and Warner-Lambert. Paul has served the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in many capacities including Chairman of the New York Chapter in 1971 and President of National in 1988. Later he was a member of the IFSCC Presidium and Scientific Committee. Paul is a Fellow of the SCC and holds fifteen U. S. patents. He was presented with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Maison de Navarre Award in 2005. From 1999 until 2014, Paul ran a cosmetic consulting company, PaCar Tech, which specialized in the areas of innovative product development, new cosmetic raw materials, technology transfer, and technology acquisition. Paul may be reached by e-mail (Pathau21@gmail.com) or mobile telephone (908-451-9558).
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Call for Papers
he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
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Effect Pigments Symposium …with Live Panel on October 20th
On-Demand Material Available October 13th-26th
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ome on a journey with us as we discover the multidimensional world of special effects pigments. We will discuss the chemical makeup that makes effect pigments so extraordinary to understand their microscopic substrates that are the backbone of the beautiful, intense colors they impart, to the surface treatments, which enhance dispersion attributes and add functional benefits to help optimize formulas. From the special effects pigments that light up our eyes and create dazzling fascination, to the deepest depths of our oceans to better understand microplastics and how they affect our environment. Please join us for a comprehensive exploration of effects pigments with our industry experts! A live speaker panel will be held at 9:00 – 10:00 a.m. on October 20th. Register for the Live Panel on October 20th to receive automatic access to our library of additional on demand content from October 13th through the 26th!
Chair: Adam Rosen
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To register, go to the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
Agenda
n The Use of Color Effect Pigments – Grace K. Saba, Ph.D., Assistant Professor – Rutgers University n The World of Surface Treatments – Asya Popili, Business Development Specialist – Miyoshi America, Inc. n Pigments in Cosmetic Formulations – Gabriele Witte, Director Cosmetic Application – Merck KGaA n Substrate Based Effect Pigments – Simon Brigham, Director – Glass Flake
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Speaker Biographies
Grace Saba
race Saba is an Assistant Professor in the Department of Marine and Coastal Sciences at Rutgers University. Her broad research interests are in the fields of coastal marine organismal ecology and physiology, with emphasis on how organisms interact with their environment and other organisms, how physiological processes impact biogeochemistry, and how climate change impacts these processes. As such, her research spans organism physiological response to ocean warming and acidification, the contribution of organisms to nutrient cycling and carbon flux, and the role zooplankton play in microplastic consumption and fate. Members of her laboratory apply multiple techniques including observations, laboratory experiments, and field work, and conduct research as local as the shelf waters of the Mid-Atlantic to remote regions in Antarctica. ____________________________________________________________
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Gabriele Witte
abriele Witte is currently Director Cosmetic Application at Merck KGaA, Germany. She has more than two decades of experience in various fields of application technology for cosmetics and food. She is a passionate leader of international teams and holds a diploma in Cosmetic Science from University of Leicester, UK, which she earned in 2005. Gabriele is member of the German Society of Applied and Scientific Cosmetics, DGK, and the Royal Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS) in UK. _________________________________________________________
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Asya Popili
Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care.
sya is a business development specialist at Miyoshi America, a leading global manufacturer of surface treated pigments and mineral substrates for the cosmetic industry. Her career path started with a dream where her passion for make-up was combined with her love for chemistry. While still in school, she first landed a co-op position with Estée Lauder as a production supervisor. After graduation, she joined the L’Oréal’ DIMP team, a part of Advanced Research, as a raw material lab coordinator. One year later, she moved into the lab as an application chemist with Inolex, working primarily on hair care formulations. Asya holds an associate’s degree from Pennsylvania State University and a bachelor’s degree in Chemistry from Drexel University. ____________________________________________________________
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aving earned a degree in Chemistry and Polymer Science at Napier University, Edinburgh, Simon joined Glassflake Ltd. in 2001 in a technical sales role at their UK headquarters. He has fulfilled a number of roles within the business, most recently joining the board in 2009, holding the current role of Director. Simon is currently based in Perth, Australia. Simon’s primary focus is commercial, while also overseeing the development of pigment substrate and effect pigment products. His responsibilities also include the development of novel borosilicate substrates for effect pigments for use in cosmetics and personal care applications as well as working on next generation borosilicate effect pigments.
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Andrew Minczuk 201-259-7245 andrew.minczuk@colonialchem.com
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At Home Live Webinar Series
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The Blue Light Myth October 28th
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To register, go to the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
Employment Opportunities
For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org/jobs/.
Siltech Corporation www.siltech.com sales@siltech.com
n Sales Manager Bloomage Biotechnology USA, Inc. Parsippany, NJ
n Director of Manufacturing Pure Haven Johnson, RI
n Formulation Chemist Intermountain Blending & Filling (Scentsy) Meridian, ID
n Business Manager – Mild Surfactants TRI-K Industries Denville, NJ
n Regulatory Affairs Associate Micro Powders, Inc. Tarrytown, NY
n Coordinator – Global Compliance and Regulatory Barnet Products Englewood Cliffs, NJ
n Cosmetic Chemist Ecoco Jacksonville, FL n Senior Sales Manager – Personal Care – Americas IOI OLeo GmbH n Account Manager Ethox Chemicals, LLC Greenville, SC
n Senior Manager – Regulatory Affairs Presperse Somerset, NJ n Personal Care Business Development Representative Gelest Morrisville, PA n Chemist Tata Harper Skincare Whiting, VT
NYSCC Sponsorship Opportunities The NYSCC Sponsorship Committee is proud to invite interested parties to sponsor NYSCC educational events throughout the year. Sponsorship Committee: Yelena Zolotarsky (yelenazol@gmail.com) and Daphne Benderly (dbenderly@presperse.com) For more information, please visit: http://nyscc.org/sponsorship-opportunities/ 8
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