Cosmetiscope October 2021 by NYSCC Webmaster

October 2021 • Vol. 27 • Issue 8

The Numerous Contributions by Dr. Kerry Hanson to our Current Knowledge of Sunscreen Protection

…by Paul Thau

uring the late 1990s, when I was a member of L’Oréal’s technology surveillance group, I was asked to get in contact with Kerry Hanson Ph.D., who was conducting advanced research studies at the University of California, San Diego on urocanic acid, which is a natural ingredient found in skin. I was successful in reaching her and she provided the L’Oréal sunscreen team with updated information on her research studies with urocanic acid. Located in the stratum corneum, urocanic acid is a major epidermal chromophore for UV radiation. This simple molecule has attracted a great deal of research interest over the past half century, initially as a putative "natural sunscreen" and later as a mediator of photo-immunosuppression with a consequent role in photo-carcinogenesis. Urocanic acid was present in a number of commercial sunscreens in the late 1990s; however, Kerry Hanson’s studies indicated that there were safety concerns for its continued use in sunscreens formulations. This finding was later corroborated by future studies that she conducted in the early 2000s. Since I was overly impressed with Kerry Hanson’s skills and accomplishments, I recommended her to Bram Shroot, Ph.D., who was in charge of Galderma’s R&D laboratories located in San Diego at that time. She had an internship at the facility in La Jolla, California and received an award for her accomplishments after working there for less than one year. Kerry Hanson joined the chemistry department at the University of California, Riverside in the early 2000s and I remained in contact with her. I recommended her to several of my colleagues and clients in the industry because of her special talents for screening the efficacy of new sunscreen formulations. I also recommended her as a speaker at future scientific meetings. At the SCC Annual meeting in 2003, Kerry presented her work which eventually was published as an article in the Journal of Cosmetic Science on the topic of “Bioconvertible vitamin antioxidants improve sunscreen photoprotection against UV-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS)”.1 To the best of my knowledge, she won the best paper award that year. From 2000 to 2014, I served as a consultant for several firms and recommended Kerry for her specialized talents in testing new sunscreen formulations. A study by her that really stands out in my mind is where she used two-photon fluorescence imaging to test the efficacy of sunscreens containing the antioxidants, vitamin E and diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate, to prevent UV-induced ROS in the lower stratum corneum. The addition of the antioxidants was found to significantly improve the ability of low and high SPF sunscreens to attenuate ROS formation in UV-exposed skin.2 (continued on Page 6)

I N T U I T I V E N AT U R E : C O L O R A N D B E A U T Y T R E N D S • O C T O B E R 2 8 T H ...see pages 8 for more information.

2021 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Susanna Fernandes chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair-elect@nyscc.org

Letter from the Chair

ountdown to Suppliers’ Day 2021! I can’t believe next month, after almost two years, we will be gathering together as an industry and “Embracing Beauty” and each other safely for an in-person Suppliers’ Day, November 10-11th, at the Javits Convention Center in New York. This event promises to be full of innovation, education, business-building, and fun. The show’s theme is “Embracing Beauty” celebrating all that we create including the latest ingredients and formulations impacting product development, the roles and influence of our members, and the growth and success of cosmetic science. Suppliers’ Day will also focus on overcoming challenges and formulating for inclusivity and diversity, while inspiring unique and novel beauty and personal care products. New educational programs offered that should not be missed include:

Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc.org

• INDIE 360 with founders sharing their stories and experiences along with Mintel addressing the indie trends and a “mythbusters” session on ingredients. • BACK TO POWERFUL BEAUTY is a “lunch and learn” style program with Peclers Paris, providing creative scenarios for color harmonies, textures, and ingredients based on consumer desires and future trends.

Secretary Leor Fay Tal secretary@nyscc.org

• CONSCIOUS INCLUSION, led by Award-winning business communication strategist Shakira M. Brown, will share how you can increase your awareness of difference using mindful communication techniques rooted in practical Zen philosophical concepts.

Advisor Giorgino Macalino advisor@nyscc.org Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc.org By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com Social Media Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org

…Susanna Fernandes

• CLEAN AND NATURAL BEAUTY PANEL that will define this enduring trend and provide insight on the challenges and solutions in preserving these formulations. Core programs, on topics essential in our business, will also be back including the pre-show SCC CEP Courses, Digital Age of Beauty, Discover Sustainability, World of Chemistry, Regulatory and Compliance Update, and Fragrance: The Invisible Art. In addition, National SCC will be hosting a Career Development Day. I am also excited about these energetic show floor features and special events: INDIE Brand Pavilion, Future Chemists Workshop, Mentorship Breakfast Mixer and Information Session, Members/ Guest Breakfast, University Row, Presentation Theater, and hundreds of exhibitors showcasing ingredients, formulations, lab equipment, testing, regulatory solutions, services, and more. On November 10th, come celebrate with the NYSCC at our Education and Awards Night Ceremony with a special dinner and fitting salute to being Back in New York City! This will be held at HK Hall from 7:00 – 10:00 p.m. and tickets are limited. To view the complete programming and to register visit: www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day. If you can’t attend Suppliers’ Day in person, a robust virtual day with suppliers and unique learning programs kicks-off on November 12th and will be accessible for 30 more days. Although I am looking forward to Suppliers’ Day, I would like to look back at our fabulous programs that recently took place and mention other upcoming programs. In September, we had our first in-person educational program on “Skin, Hygiene and the Microbiome,” at the Chart House, and attendee Malyn Concina with Shiseido, said it best: “I was thrilled to be at an in-person meeting! Once again, the NYSCC offered very good content. I am looking forward to Suppliers’ Day!” One of our chapter’s favorites, the Culinary Event returned and took place at Natirar and was a delicious way for us to re-connect with members. The Suppliers’ Day Previews on September 30th as well as the upcoming one on October 7th showcase top suppliers’ services, trends, and innovative solutions. The month ends with a webinar on “Color and Beauty Trends 2023,” providing tips and tricks to creating formulas and shades for the latest beauty movements. As you see, the NYSCC continues to evolve and deliver the education and programs that advance professional development and cosmetic science. I truly look forward to welcoming you and coming back together at Suppliers’ Day.

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Kamini Barot Sales Director - Americas kbarot@orchidia.com (732) 353-9706 www.orchidia.com

EMBRACING EMBRA CING BEA BEAUTY UTY A Celebration of What We Create

SUPPLIERS’’ DDAY SUPPLIERS AY 20 2021 21 NO NOVEMBER VEMBER 10-11 10-11 | VIRTUAL VIRTUAL DAY: DAY: NOVEMBER NOVEMBER 12 JACOB JACOB K. J JAVITS AVITS CONVENTION CONVENTION CENTER | NEW YORK YORK CITY

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SUPPLIERS’ DAY MAKES IT HAPPEN IN NYC & VIRTUALLY AROUND THE WORLD Oc to b er 20 21

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NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Embracing Beauty… Register Today!

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ttendee registration is now open for the in-person Suppliers’ Day, taking place November 10-11, 2021 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York, New York. Suppliers’ Day is the must-attend event for all those seeking innovation, education and business connections in the beauty and personal care industries. Cosmetic chemists, ingredient executives (including R&D professionals involved in ingredient/strategic sourcing), formulation experts, and professionals involved in marketing beauty and personal products are encouraged to register for this highly anticipated event at… https://www.xpressreg.net/register/NYSC1121/landing.asp?sc=&aban=&hkey=&iq=&vip=&smt=&tm= “We are excited to be able to come together for two days of insights, innovations, and networking to help propel the industry forward. The theme of the event is ‘Embracing Beauty,’ and will focus on overcoming challenges and formulating for inclusivity and diversity, while inspiring creativity and novel product development,” said Susanna Fernandes, Chair, NYSCC. The Suppliers’ Day exhibit floor will showcase more than 400 top suppliers and distributors displaying new ingredients and formulations, services, and technologies, with some debuting in North America at Suppliers’ Day for the first time. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day will also offer an educational program on the topics that are most pressing to those involved in formulations, sourcing, and marketing of beauty and personal care products including: • • • • • •

INDIE 360 Conscious Inclusion Fragrance: The Invisible Art Back to Powerful Beauty Clean and Natural Beauty Panel Core Suppliers’ Day Programs on Digital Age of Beauty, Discover Sustainability, World of Chemistry, and a Regulatory and Compliance Update

A virtual Suppliers’ Day will also kick-off on November 12th and feature more suppliers that weren’t able to attend the New York event along with unique learning programs. Continuing its mission to educate and involve the workforce of the future and students, Suppliers’ Day will also host the popular Future Chemists Workshop and Mentorship Breakfast Mixer and Information Session. The NYSCC is also collaborating with National SCC and sister chapters across the country on an enhanced Career Day program. A special NYSCC Education and Awards Night Ceremony will take place on November 10th, where the winner of the CEW Beauty Creators Award for Ingredients and Formulation will be announced as well as student scholarships and other awards will be presented. The installation of the 2022 Executive Board will also be part of the evening agenda. To register to attend and for more information on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day visit: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/ 4

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NYSCC Focuses on the Future Formulation Expert!

hile providing education and engagement for our members and the cosmetic chemistry community at large is paramount to our mission, equally important is engaging and empowering those who will be the future force of the industry. The 2021 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day event will be the epicenter for these next generation leaders with programs designed that allow them to envision their future. Here’s an overview of what’s planned:

Future Chemists Workshop (FCW)

A staple at Suppliers’ Day in New York City, the FCW provides an interactive learning and challenge based environment for university students and leaders of tomorrow. Our goal is to host and instruct approximately 50 university students from chapters across the U.S. in a safe and compliant real-life lab experience. This is scheduled to take place on Day 1 of Suppliers’ Day – November 10, 2021.

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Mentor-Mentee Icebreaker and Mixer

This event brings students from the FCW, as well as NYSCC student members, together with seasoned industry professionals to highlight and reinforce the professional development programs offered at Suppliers’ Day and throughout the year by the NYSCC. The committee spearheading this program will also introduce the sophisticated database which will match mentors and mentees while fostering interaction through fun, thoughtprovoking icebreakers. This is scheduled to take place over breakfast on Day 1 of Suppliers’ Day – November 10, 2021.

SCC Career Day

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day will join forces with National SCC to complete this trifecta of offerings. Details are still being finalized, but topping off the activities for junior members of the SCC at large will be an opportunity to meet significant stakeholders of the cosmetics and personal care industry who will come together to share information on what the industry needs from its future workforce. During the event, information will also be presented by academia and corporate professionals providing attendees with vital information on how to take the next step in their cosmetic science career.

Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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High Performance Ingredients for Skin and Hair Care

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The Numerous Contributions by Dr. Kerry Hanson

(continued from Page 1)

Kerry Hanson has a twenty-year academic research career focusing on the photochemistry of intrinsic and extrinsic epidermal chromophores (urocanic acid, UV filters, and ROS sensitization) and epidermal environmental conditions (stratum corneum pH and ozone). She developed a two-photon fluorescence lifetime imaging methodology to visualize the stratum corneum pH gradient. She was also able to visualize UV-induced ROS as a function of epidermal depth and keratinocyte location using fluorescence microscopy techniques. Kerry has over fifteen years of consulting experience with sunscreen R&D leaders, focusing on antioxidant performance in OTC sunscreens. She also identified conditions by which FDAapproved UV filters can sensitize ROS in individual epidermal layers above intrinsic epidermal levels. Finally, Kerry has served as an expert witness, consulting in patent litigation based on her experience in spectroscopy, separations, and data analysis. A list of some of her key publications in sun care and related fields is provided in the References section.3-17

Concluding Remarks

Kerry Hanson and her colleagues continue their invaluable work in enhancing our knowledge of effective testing of sunscreens for safety and efficacy. In addition, she has contributed articles on sunscreens to the New York Times and documentaries shown on Nova Science. ____________________________________________________________

References

1. Hanson, K.; Clegg, R., Bioconvertible vitamin antioxidants improve sunscreen photoprotection against UV-induced reactive oxygen species. J Cosmet Sci 2003, 54 (6), 589-598. 2. Hanson, K.; Bardeen, C.; Beasley, D.; Meyer, T., Antioxidants in sunscreens for improved ROS protection. Cosmet & Toil 2011, 126 (10), 710-718. 3. Hanson, K.; Davis, S.; Bardeen, C., Two-photon standing-wave fluorescence correlation spectroscopy. Opt Lett 2007, 32 (15), 2121-2123. 4. Hanson, K.; Gratton, E.; Bardeen, C., Sunscreen enhancement of UV-induced reactive oxyten species in the skin. Free Radic Biol Med 2006, 41 (8), 1205-1212. 5. Hanson, K.; Clegg, R., Two-photon fluorescence imaging and reactive oxygen species detection within the epidermis. Methods Mol Biol 2005, 289, 413-422. 6. Lee, E.; Faulhaber, D.; Hanson, K.; Ding, W.; Peters, S.; Kodali, S.; Granstein, R., Dietary lutein reduces ultraviolet radiation-induced inflammation and immunosuppression. J Invest Dermatol 2004, 122 (2), 510-517. 7. Behne, M.; Barry, N.; Hanson, K.; Aronchik, I.; Clegg, R.; Gratton, E.; Feingold, K.; Holleran, W.; Elias, P.; Mauro, T., Neonatal development of the stratum corneum pH gradient: localization and mechanisms leading to emergence of optimal barrier function. J Invest Dermatol 2003, 120 (6), 998-1006. 8. Behne, M.; Meyer, J.; Hanson, K.; Barry, N.; Murata, S.; Crumrine, D.; Clegg, R.; Gratton, E.; Holleran, W.; Elias, P.; Mauro, T., NHE1 regulates the stratum corneum permeability barrier homeostasis. Microenvironment acidification assessed with fluorescence lifetime imaging. J Biol Chem 2002, 277 (49), 47399-47406. 9. Hanson, K.; Behne, M.; Barry, N.; Mauro, T.; Gratton, E.; Clegg, R., Two-photon fluorescence lifetime imaging of the skin stratum corneum pH gradient. Biophys J 2002, 83 (3), 1682-1690. 10. Hanson, K.; Clegg, R., Observation and quantification of ultraviolet-induced reactive oxygen species in ex vivo human skin. Photochem Photobiol 2002, 76 (1), 57-63. 11. Hanson, K.; Simon, J., Epidermal trans-urocanic acid and the UV-A-induced photoaging of the skin. Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 1998, 95 (18), 10576-10578. 12. Hanson, K.; Simon, J., The origin of the wavelength-dependent photoreactivity of transurocanic acid. Photochem Photobiol 1998, 67 (5), 538-540. 6

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13. Hanson, K.; Simon, J., Photochemistry of urocanic acid: evidence that urocanic acid should be used with caution in cosmetic formulations. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1997, 48 (3), 151-157. 14. Hanson, K.; Simon, J., The photochemical isomerization kinetics of urocanic acid and their effects upon the in vitro and in vivo photoisomerization action spectra. Photochem Photobiol 2008, 66 (6), 817-820. 15. Hanson, K.; Li, B.; Simon, J., A spectroscopic study of the epidermal ultraviolet chromophore trans-urocanic acid. J Am Chem Soc 1998, 119 (11), 2715-2721. 16. Hanson, K.; Cutuli, M.; Rivas, T.; Antuna, M.; Saoub, J.; Tierce, N.; Bardeen, C., Effects of solvent and micellar encapsulation on the photostability of avobenzone. Photochem Photobiol Sci 2020, 19(3), 390-398. 17. Hanson, K.; Narayanan, S.; Nichols, V.; Bardeen, C., Photochemical degradation of the UV filter octyl methoxycinnamate in solution and in aggregates. Photochem Photobiol Sci 2015, 14(9), 1607-1616. ____________________________________________________________

About the Author

Paul Thau was employed at Cosmair/L’Oréal USA for over 22 years, during which time he served as Assistant Vice-President of Cosmetic R&D and then as Senior Research Fellow. His cosmetic industry experience spans more than fifty years and includes R&D positions at Revlon, Bristol-Myers, CIBA Pharmaceutical, and Warner-Lambert. Paul has served the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in many capacities including Chairman of the New York Chapter in 1971 and President of National in 1988. Later he was a member of the IFSCC Presidium and Scientific Committee. Paul is a Fellow of the SCC and holds fifteen U. S. patents. He was presented with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Maison de Navarre Award in 2005. From 1999 until 2014, Paul ran a cosmetic consulting company, PaCar Tech, which specialized in the areas of innovative product development, new cosmetic raw materials, technology transfer, and technology acquisition. Paul may be reached by e-mail (Pathau21@gmail.com) or mobile telephone (908-451-9558).

2021 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org October 19

Suppliers' Day Preview: An Ingredients Conversation with the Judges of the CEW Supplier's Beauty Creators Award – Virtual Event

October 28

Intuitive Nature: Color and Beauty Trends 2023 – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event

November 5 November 10-11

Suppliers' Day Preview Sneak Peek of Exhibit Floor Innovations – Virtual Event NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

November 10

INDIE 360, Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

November 10

NYSCC Education and Awards Night Ceremony (7:00 – 11:00 pm), HK Hall, 605 W 48th Street, New York, NY

November 12

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Virtual Day (www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day)

November 17

New Green Emollients for Personal Care Applications – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event

November 18

Clean Beauty – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event

December 14-15

SCC Annual Scientific Meeting, New York, NY

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Vol . 27

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Intuitive Nature: Color and Beauty Trends 2023

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et inspired by Intuitive Nature, forecasting the beauty trends for 2023 with inspiring colors, textures, effects, and vegan formulations. Explore two seasonal trends: “Bloom” for Spring/ Summer 2023 and “Evolution” for Autumn/Winter 2023. Beauty is ever changing, driven by movements of sustainability, inclusivity, and wellness. The spotlight of mental health and self-care sets the stage for products and campaigns that celebrate oneself and encourage a lifestyle that is both positive for self and others. Intuitive Nature celebrates the connection and trust to oneself, which is further strengthened through relationships with nature and community. “Bloom” for Spring/Summer 2023 channels the inner child, encouraging playfulness, authenticity, and disconnection from the pressures of the digital world to get lost in a journey of creativity and curiosity. Incorporating themes of self-love and self-care, formulations include both color and skin care applications in innovative and playful textures. “Evolution” for Autumn/Winter 2023 highlights the serenity of simplicity and gratitude, while encompassing the power of conscious everyday choices. Grounded in themes of self-acceptance and sustainability, it echoes the mantra of small changes and creates big impacts for ourselves, our communities, and the Earth. Illustrated with hybrid products, featured formulations provide multiple functions and benefits, a simpler routine, and a reduction in waste.

Speaker Biographies

n Betty Aucar – Sun Chemical etty Aucar has more than 30 years of colorant and effect pigment expertise in the cosmetic industry. Starting with the Mearl Corporation as a microbiologist in the 1980s, Betty has held many technical and lab leader roles as the Mearl Corporation evolved into Engelhard in 1996, and then BASF in 8

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2006. Within the BASF Colors & Effects division (recently bought by Sun Chemical), Betty is the technical expert for the Americas, providing formulation support for customers in both North and South America. She is fluent in Spanish and is passionate about helping and sharing her knowledge with customers and the beauty industry.

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n Erin Turner – Sun Chemical

rin Turner has worked for BASF for 13 years across various divisions and commercial roles. Drawn to the beauty industry, she joined the BASF Colors & Effects business (recently bought by Sun Chemical) in 2017 as the North American marketing manager for cosmetics. In 2019, she was delegated to Germany as the European marketing manager for cosmetics. Today, she is the business development manager and sales lead for the U.S. and Canada. Erin is passionate about all things marketing and enjoys connecting with customers and bringing new ideas to life. She has a concentration in Marketing from North Carolina State University and an MBA from the University of Texas at Austin.

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To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

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November 17, 2021 • 11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.