Biodegradability Considerations for Cosmetic Ingredients
…Ben Blinder
The topic of biodegradability has become extremely important in recent years, but still may not be fully understood. The following is a basic overview for for mulators and anyone wishing to know more about this critical issue
Note that regulations, definitions, and practical guidelines on biodegradability are continually changing, and the comments in this article are intended to offer general insights, not legal definitions or advice.
Simply put, biodegradation is the breakdown of organic matter by microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi, and once broken down, the byproducts are carbon dioxide and water vapor 1 “Bio” is the key prefix here; the difference between “degradable” and “biodegradable” is that while “degradable” products can be broken down by chemical or biological processes, “biodegradable” materials can only be broken down by biological processes.
The concer n for biodegradable products began with the issue of microplastics, first detected in the 1970s in the ocean as plastic residue, but not termed “microplastics” until the mid-2000s. A good and comprehensive article on this by Napper and Thompson was published online in 2020 2 Many multinational companies have stopped using microplastics (microbeads) in their formulations and other brands are following, but let’s clearly define what are, and are NOT, microplastics! To qualify as a microplastic, four criteria must be met:
• It must be a polymer
• It must be solid (at room temperature).
• It must be in particulate for m
• It must be under 5 mm in size.
To reemphasize, all four criteria must be met Even if one of these four does not apply, the substance is NOT considered a microplastic And to complicate matters further, there are many exclusions even if these four criteria are met, including the following:
• The material is natural.
• The material is degradable
• Its solubility is > 2 grams/liter.
• No carbon atoms in its chemical structure
• Its release to the environment is prevented when used
• Its physical properties are per manently modified during end use.
• It is per manently incorporated into a solid matrix during end use
Just because your product may be “natural” does not mean it is “biodegradable”. Measurement is key! As mentioned by Dr. Martin Perry, Advanced Development Safety Laboratories at SCS For mulate in 2021: “Although natural content is good (continued on Page 6)
October 2023 • Vol. 29 • Issue 8 I N D I E 3 6 0 ° • O C T O B E R 9 , 2 0 2 3 s e e p a g e 5 - 8 f o r m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n
2023 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE
Chair Stacey House chair@nyscc.org
Chair-Elect
Amber Evans chair-elect@nyscc org
Treasurer
Alex Blakeman treasurer@nyscc org
Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc org
Advisor Giorgio Dell’Acqua advisor@nyscc org
Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc.org
At Home Live Series
Susanna Fer ndandes Susanna.Fer nandes@tri-k.com
By-Laws
Amy Marshall amy marshall@altana com
Communications
Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc org
House Chair
Alexis Piterski house@nyscc org
Special Events
Johanna Gigliotti johanna.e.gigliotti@gmail.com
Cosmetiscope Editor
Roger Mcmullen roger mcmullen@fdu.edu
Cosmetiscope Advertising
Bret Clark rbclark@ashland com
Membership
John Carola jc@katonachemical com
Letter from the Chair …Stacey House
It is pumpkin season, and this super clean beauty ingredient is having its moment! Our social media team recently highlighted the benefits of pumpkin extract in skin and hair care and why you may want to add it to your rotation! Check our @nysccmain page for more infor mation
NYSCC also had a night to remember with cooking ingredients! Our Culinary Night at Midtown Loft and Terrace in New York City was the venue for a sold-out crowd that encouraged members to put on their chef hats, whip up new creations, and challenge their skills.
I am really looking forward to our INDIE 360° program coming up on Monday, October 9th at Convene, a new host venue for NYSCC in New York City. It will feature a keynote address by Ron Robinson, founder of BeautyStat, and one of world’s leading and most recognized cosmetic chemists Ron is also a judge for the Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Beauty Creators Award in the Ingredients and For mulation Category. Joining Ron at this program from 3:00 – 8:30 p.m. will be other founders of indie brands discussing challenges, opportunities, and pathways to success, as well as suppliers who will join International Beauty Association (IBA) board member, Dee DeLucaMattos, on a panel that aims to “define” an indie brand Register now to attend
Next month’s educational program will explore a fresh topic on “Strategies for Fragrance Eco-Conception,” taking place on November 8th at the Pleasantdale Château In addition, plans are underway for a co-sponsored NYSCC-Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association (CACPA) program taking place the mor ning of December 11th, as well as our festive Education Night celebration on December 12th at the Edison Ballroom Numerous NYSCC scholarships and grants will be awarded, and the evening will include plenty of holiday fun, networking, and much more!
It was wonderful to see members and supporters at other SCC events, including the IFSCC Congress in Barcelona and the Florida Sunscreen Symposium. We will also be present at the Califor nia Chapter’s Suppliers’ Day in Long Beach and of course at the SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Showcase in New York City.
The NYSCC is also proud to have been a sponsor of the CEW Beauty Bazaar that showcased all the finalists of CEW’s Beauty Creator Awards The winner of the Ingredient and For mulation category of the CEW Beauty Awards will be announced on November 7th. In addition, we are proud to sponsor the Personal Care Products Council’s (PCPC’s) Technical Symposium at the end of October in Arlington, VA. The PCPC has been a great educational partner to the NYSCC we are thrilled to continue our collaboration
As you can see, it is an eventful Fall and I thank our engaged chapter members and committee members who have and are working hard to make these NYSCC programs outstanding successes
Call for Papers
The Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested partie to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Cor ner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor
Please send correspondence to: roger mcmullen@fdu.edu.
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O c t o b e r 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 8 3
Biodegradability Considerations for Cosmetic Ingredients
to know, and there is a perception that natural ingredients are more biodegradable than synthetic ones, knowing the biodegradability is important The natural content of your product, or your organic content, is not going to be sufficient for you to substantiate anything on biodegradability ”3
To be precise, most companies adhere to the standard of “readily biodegradable,” defined as the ability of a product to biodegrade quickly and completely (≥ 60% by OECD 301A-F/ASTM D7373 testing) within 28 days. You might also hear the ter m “inherently biodegradable,” defined as between 20% and 60% biodegradability as measured by OECD 301A-F testing, but “readily biodegradable” is stricter and preferable
From the OECD iLibrary: “The OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals is a collection of about 150 of the most relevant inter nationally agreed testing methods used by gover nment, industry, and independent laboratories to identify and characterize potential hazards of chemicals They are a set of tools for professionals, used primarily in regulatory safety testing and subsequent chemical and chemical product notification, chemical registration, and chemical evaluation They can also be used for the selection and ranking of candidate chemicals during the development of new chemicals and products and in toxicology research. This group of tests covers environmental fate and behavior In 2017, section 3 “Degradation and Accumulation” was renamed to “Environmental Fate and Behavior” to take into account test guidelines measuring endpoints such as dispersion and aggregation ”4
As a final note, microplastics and biodegradability concer ns are part of a larger issue of minimizing environmental pollution Some may equate this trend with the apparent discovery of reef damage caused by certain organic sun filters, specifically octinoxate and oxybenzone There are bans in place on octinoxate and oxybenzone in many countries, including the U.S. (Hawaii, Florida, and U.S. Virgin Islands), Aruba, Bonaire (off the coast of Venezuela), Palau and parts of Mexico However, this is not a biodegradability issue as much as it is a toxicity issue, and the science is still unclear as to the actual effect of residual organic sunscreens on coral reefs
References
1 D D Focht, “Biodegradation ” AccessScience, McGraw-Hill, May 2020; doi: 10 1036/10978542 422025
2 I E Napper and R C Thompson, “Plastic debris in the marine environment: history and future challenges.” Global Challenges, 4(6); doi: 10.1002/gch2.201900081.
3 K Culliney, “Beyond ISO 16128: industry ‘ can’t ignore’ biodegradability in natural and organic cosmetics, says expert.” CosmeticsDesign; November 18, 2021; https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2021/11/18/Biodegradable-beauty-focusneeded-in-natural-and-organics-before-regulatory-change-says-expert#
4. OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals, Section 3; Test No. 301: Ready Biodegradability; https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/test-no301-ready-biodegradability 9789264070349-en.
n Author – Ben Blinder
Ben Blinder is the Executive Director, Business Operations at Gattefossé USA with P&L responsibility for the personal care and phar maceutical business units in the U S and Mexico He is also a founding member of the Advisory Committee on Diversity and Inclusion at Gattefossé in North America. Ben holds a B.S. in Chemical Engineering from Lehigh University
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(continued from Page 1)
INDIE 360°
October 9, 2023
3:00 – 8:15 p.m. Convene
75 Rockefeller Plaza New York, NY
Agenda
3:00 – 3:30 p m
Chair: Susanna Fer nandes (TRI-K Industries)
Registration, Welcome, and Light Snacks
3:30 – 4:15 p m “Keynote Kick-Off” – Ron Robinson (Beautystat)
4:20 – 4:55 p m Trends Presentation – Addison Cain (Spate)
5:00 – 5:15 p.m. Break
5:20 – 6:30 p.m. INDIE Panel Featuring INDIE Brands Discussing Challenges, Opportunities, Successes, and More!
Moderator:
• Deanna Utroske (Beauty Insights)
Panelists:
• Rachel Johnson (The Charismatic Chemist)
• Arielle Nausieda (ESSNTLS Lab, LLC)
• Rose Correa and Shane Lindner (Amazonian SkinFood)
• Isfahan Chambers-Harris, Ph.D. (Alodia Hair Care)
CSR program
6:30 – 7:15 p m
How Do Suppliers Define An Indie Brand?
Moderator:
• Dee DeLuca-Mattos (ECRU)
Panelists:
• Yashi Shrestha (Novi)
• Sara Manganelli (TRI-K Industries)
• Sarah de Szalay (Gattefossé USA)
• Andrew Miller (BASF Corporation)
7:15 – 8:15 p m
Cocktail Reception Amongst the Tabletops!
Networking will take place amongst sponsors, including raw ingredient suppliers that cater to indie brands, showcasing their products We will conclude the program with cocktails, apps, and more networking!
To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
Naturally committed to a sustainable world a (continued on Page
O c t o b e r 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 8 5
6)
Speaker, Moderator, and Panelist Biographies
n Ron Robinson (Beauty Stat) – Keynote Speaker
Recognized as one of the world’s leading cosmetic chemists, Ron Robinson, CEO and founder of BeautyStat, set his goal to develop a revolutionary new technology to stabilize active ingredients such as pure vitamin C After spending his entire career trying to solve this problem and five extensive years in the lab, he finally did And as a result, his brand, BeautyStat, was bor n with the world’s first 20% stable vitamin C serum, the Universal C Skin Refiner. No other product on the market contains the same potency
Since its launch in 2019, BeautyStat has grown rapidly as a company, developing a whole line of award-winning skincare products. From the Universal Skin Refiner to eye cream, cleanser, moisturizer, and facial oil The line has won 11 beauty awards from Allure, Good Housekeeping, and Women’s Health. BeautyStat has found tremendous success on-shelf as it expands its distribution into several retailers, most notably ULTA Beauty This year alone, as a direct result of its sales perfor mance (outperfor ming the sales forecast), BeautyStat went from being in 260 ULTA Beauty doors to over 1,300 doors nationwide
Ron has more than 20 years of experience in the beauty industry He developed some of Clinique’s best-selling products and went on to lead product development teams at L’Oréal, Revlon, and Avon. He also advised on Hailey Bieber’s Rhode skincare line Ron recently won Glossy’s 2022 Glossy 50 award for being one of the industry’s biggest movers and shakers.
n Addison Cain (Spate)
Addison Cain, Beauty Strategy and Innovation Manager at Spate, is a passionate beauty expert who uses her knowledge to guide and support product launches, brand strategy, and marketing Brands she’s worked with in the past include up-and-coming favorites like Naturium and cult classics like Sunday Riley Using a deep understanding of the beauty space combined with Spate data, she provides valuable, actionable insights for brands in the beauty, personal care, wellness spaces, and beyond.
n Deanna Utroske (Beauty Insights)
Deanna is one of the most well-respected critical thinkers in the cosmetics and personal care industry today. She serves our industry as a public speaker, B2B media editor, and consultant Deanna writes the Global Perspectives column for EuroCosmetics magazine covering product formulation trends, emerging ingredient science, and ingredient marketing trends. She is the creator of Beauty Insights, a weekly newsletter of relevance to cosmetic chemists, brand leaders, executive leadership, marketing pros, and more. Lear n more at www.deannautroske.com.
n Rachel Johnson (The Charismatic Chemist)
Rachel Johnson, The Charismatic Chemist, is a highly sought-after cosmetic chemist with nearly a decade of experience in the cosmetic industry. She is known for her innovative for mulations, her passion for diversity and inclusion, and her ability to make science fun and accessible to everyone Rachel has worked with over 500 beauty brands, including INDIE, prestige, multi-level marketing, and mass-market brands She has for mulated over a thousand products, and her work can be found in major retailers such as Sephora, ULTA Beauty, and Target.
Rachel is also a fierce advocate for STEM careers, and she is passionate about inspiring the next generation of cosmetic chemists She is a regular speaker at academic and industry events, and she has been featured on large platfor ms such as Allure, IfThenSheCan, and Start Small Think Big
In 2020, Rachel launched her own cosmetic for mulation consulting business, The Charismatic Chemist. In 2023 she launched a new product manufacturing facility, Up-Rising Beauty, which is dedicated to helping under-resourced beauty entrepreneurs produce innovative products Rachel was recently
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INDIE 360° (continued from Page 5)
invited to speak at the SWSCC Educational Summit on the topic of “For mulating Color Cosmetics for Diverse Skin Tones ” Rachel is a rising star and pioneer in the cosmetic industry, and she is committed to making the beauty world more inclusive and equitable for everyone
n Arielle Nausieda (ESSNTLS Lab, LLC)
Arielle, originally from Grand Rapids, Michigan, ventured to New York City with a dream of revolutionizing the beauty industry Her brand, ESSNTLS Lab, is redefining clean beauty, emphasizing effectiveness, sustainability, and luxury.
While studying cosmetic chemistry, she realized the need to create her own skincare solutions with only essential ingredients Unable to find a brand that met all her criteria clean ingredients, transparency, luxurious packaging, fair pricing, and recycling she decided to fill the gap herself W ith her mission to create higher quality products, she expanded ESSNTLS Lab to develop and manufacture products for INDIE beauty clients and help bring these brands to life
Arielle’s jour ney showcases her evolution from consumer to cosmetic chemist and entrepreneur W ith ESSNTLS Lab, she’s raising the bar for the beauty industry, offering products and full tur nkey manufacturing that provide the ESSNTLS for your beauty needs
n Rose Correa and Shane Lindner (Amazonian SkinFood)
Married couple and co-founders of Amazonian SkinFood, Rose Correa from Brazil and Shane Lindner from Connecticut, first met in San Francisco in 2019 during a volunteering project They shared a deep passion for making a positive change in the world. Rose’s challenges with ineffective skincare products and her strong cultural ties to the Amazon rainforest became key inspirations for their brand. Identifying a gap in the market for ethical yet effective skincare, they embarked on creating a brand that bridged this divide Their mission, however, extended beyond just skincare. They aimed to ripple positivity by supporting indigenous communities and championing environmental conservation
For Rose and Shane, the brand is not just about skincare. It’s about advocating genuine, sustainable trade and acting as a beacon of hope against deforestation and the larger looming climate crisis W ith Amazonian SkinFood, they don’t just offer products; they invite consumers to be part of a movement a har mony of beauty, ethics, and the preservation of nature For more infor mation about their company, see the following link: https://amazonianskinfood.com/pages/about-us
n Isfahan Chambers-Harris, Ph.D. (Alodia Hair Care)
As a black woman, mother, medical scientist, and trichology practitioner, Dr. Isfahan understands first-hand the misinfor mation that exists around textured hair and she is committed to educating women on holistic health approaches to healthy hair and scalp care For years, she battled hair breakage and scalp damage from chemical straighteners When she started her fellowship at Vanderbilt Medical Center, she worked on a clinical trial that focused on the debilitating auto-immune disease that primarily affects black women called sarcoidosis She saw herself reflected in the countless young black women that had the disease and realized that it may stem from the toxic products that black women put on their bodies This experience had a profound effect on her and has fueled her passion, drive, and perseverance to use her expertise to create an organic scalp and hair care line catering to textured hair types.
After three years of countless hours of research and development, Alodia Hair Care launched in 2017 Today, Alodia is an award-winning, clean scalp and hair care brand. Alodia is sold in select Target stores, Amazon, and as an e-commerce brand Alodia has been featured in Essence, Elle, Vogue, BlackDoctor org, and Forbes Magazine just to name a few Dr Isfahan has also won various awards such as the Pharrell W illiams Black Ambition Top Prize W inner, Glossier Grant Initiative, and New Voices/Barefoot W ine pitch competition She was named Grand Prize winner of the Aveeno Startup Scalp/Skin Health Accelerator and was featured in a VISA commercial that highlighted women small business owners.
(continued on Page 8)
O c t o b e r 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 8 7
n Dee DeLuca-Mattos (ECRU New York)
W ith more than three decades of diverse experience in fashion and beauty, Dee is an innovative, high-energy beauty executive with a proven track record in global business development, creative marketing, product development, and building strategic relationships. Dee is recognized for creating personalized marketing strategies and integrating across multiple channels to maximize brand exposure globally Dee was the co-founder of the Medical Spa Society, a past board member of I-Spa (Inter national Spa Association), and an active member of the IBA (Inter national Beauty Association)
n Yashi Shrestha (Novi)
Yashi Shrestha is the Head of Chemistry and Sustainability at Novi, a technology platfor m that powers the clean beauty industry through its data-rich network of retailers, suppliers, contract manufacturers, and brands Novi enables clean and transparent product development by allowing users to discover, sample, and purchase innovative ingredients that are pre-vetted to retailer requirements and industry standards
Yashi is known for her work in furthering ingredient transparency, developing clean standards, and implementing processes and strategies for sustainable product development. At Novi, Yashi works with its retailer partners like Sephora, Credo, Ulta, and Target to develop tools to help their brands understand and comply with evolving clean standards Yashi holds an M B A from the USC Marshall School of Business and has a B S in Chemistry with a focus in Environmental Science
n Sara Manganelli (TRI-K Industries)
Sara holds a B S in Biology from Albright College and in 2022 completed her MBA at Caldwell University W ith nearly a decade of experience, Sara has a myriad of marketing experience within the B2B sector in both global distribution and manufacturing Throughout her career, Sara has held impactful roles at prominent companies, including Premier Specialties in their cosmetics division and as Senior Marketing Manager at Presperse Corporation Today, she serves as Marketing Manager at TRI-K Industries.
n Sarah de Szalay (Gattefossé USA)
Sarah de Szalay is currently Senior Applications Manager at Gattefossé USA. She has more than 25 years of experience in product development having also worked at companies like Reckitt, Avon, and Unilever as well as women ’ s health start-ups Her key focus areas include front-end and upstream innovation, for mulation development, methods development, and technology development as well as the development of partnerships with key opinion leaders and universities.
Over the course of her time in industry, she has developed well over 100+ products including over the counter drugs, regulated products, and a vast array of cosmetic and personal care products Currently she focuses on prototype development and new for mula applications for skin care, sun care, hair care, and color cosmetics Sarah is the inventor of several patents covering mild for mulations, hair care, novel for mats, and skin microbiome technology She has co-authored book chapters and peer-reviewed publications She has also been a critical reviewer on peerreviewed jour nals and a speaker at conferences.
Sarah has a B S and M S in Chemical Engineering from Manhattan College and is an active member of the NYSCC. Since 2018 she has volunteered for the NYSCC as an event coordinator, co-chair, and moderator of various events
N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 8 INDIE 360° (continued from Page 7)
n Andrew Miller (BASF Corporation)
Andrew Miller joined BASF Corporation in 2007 and has held several roles within the organization He has worked in personal care for over ten years and is currently Senior North American Marketing Manager of the hair, body, and oral care segments. He received his B.A. in Communications from Rutgers University and obtained his M B A from Centenary University
n Susanna Fer nandes (TRI-K Industries)
Susanna Fer nandes is a dynamic professional with a rich and diverse background in the cosmetics and beauty industry Currently holding the position of Supervisor of eSales and Business Development at TRI-K Industries, Inc., Susanna’s career has been marked by continuous growth and significant contributions W ith a track record of strategic sales leadership, she has effectively managed the national budget and a high perfor ming inside sales team, leading to an impressive fourfold increase in both budgeted and actual sales since 2016 Susanna’s innovative marketing initiatives, including monthly promotional e-mail campaigns and the development of automation tools, have enhanced customer engagement and satisfaction As a natural mentor, she is deeply involved in talent development and actively contributes to strategy meetings for new business development
Further more, her creative flair shines through in crafting concise and impactful “one-liners” for the entire product line. In 2021, Susanna served as a Beauty Creator Ambassador for the Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) organization, collaborating on the Supplier Award ceremony, and providing valuable industry insights. Her tenure as Executive Board Chair at the NYSCC from 2020 to 2022 showcased her commitment to industry advocacy, event leadership, and innovative outreach through initiatives like “The Science Behind the Art” podcast Susanna Fer nandes is truly a driving force in the cosmetic industry, dedicated to innovation, mentorship, and elevating industry standards.
The NYSCC will be hosting a webinar on Thursday, November 2nd at 10:00 a.m EST.
A Conversation with the CEW Supplier’s Award Judges on this Year’s Finalists
The NYSCC will be hosting a webinar on Thursday, November 2nd at 10:00 a.m. EST that will a take a deep dive into the innovative ingredients and for mulations that were named 2023 finalists in CEW's Beauty Creator Awards – Ingredients/For mulation Category. The finalists are:
• Activen for XEP-716 MiniProtein
• BASF for ProBiolift
• Cambrium for NovaColl
• Croda Inc. for Mel[o]stem
• Givaudan Active Beauty for Gravityl
• Givaudan Active Beauty for PrimalHyal Hydra[+]
• P2 Science, Inc. for CitroSperse
• Vantage Specialty Ingredients Inc. for Concentrated Conditioner Drops
The webinar will feature the esteemed judges who represent major beauty/personal care brands and were tasked with selecting the top winning supplier for this year ’ s CEW Supplier Award. Moderated by Andrea Nagel, SVP of News and Programming at CEW, the webinar panelists will include:
• Toussaint Jordan, Brand Manager, Product Marketing, Edgewell
• Eileen Kim, Head of U.S. Innovation and Research Prospective Team, Chanel
• Ron Robinson, Founder, CEO, BeautyStat com
• Mike Wong, Ph.D., Chief Science Officer, Orveon (bareMinerals, Buxom, Laura Mercier)
• Tao Zheng, Director, Advanced Technologies/Material Science, The Estée Lauder Companies
To register, visit the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
O c t o b e r 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 8 9
NYSCC History Project ...Steve Herman NYSCC History Project ...Steve Herman
Thirty-Five Years Ago
The program for 1988 was packed with educational opportunities including monthly meetings supplemented with an all-day seminar plus a symposium at Fairleigh Dickinson University (FDU) We have an eyewitness account of the FDU symposium written by Judi Clerecuzio and the program for the October seminar
Chair Robert Noll
Chair-Elect Edward Yuhas
Advisor Her man Brown
Treasurer Viktoria Korosi
Secretary John Carson
Suppliers’ Day Kenneth Lesenko
FDU Seminar Sal Gimelli
One-day Seminar Harvey Schnur
Program Stephen Her man
Every member of the NYSCC has a life outside the Chapter. Bob Noll, the Chapter Chair for 1988, had a particularly interesting path to our Executive Committee Bob was bor n on January 6, 1929, in Malang, East Java, then a Dutch colony His father was an affluent sugar plantation owner Life changed dramatically after the attack on Pearl Harbor, and in December 1941 East Java fell. Bob was only 12 years old but tall for his age He was separated from his family and sent to a men ’ s camp in Bandjar masin, where he stayed until 1945. His captors disappeared soon after the bombing of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, but 10 days later Sukar no (an Indonesian stateman) proclaimed independence from the Dutch and Bob was back in prison until 1947, when he was freed by British and Dutch forces Then in 1950 the United Nations granted Indonesia independence and the Dutch were told to leave Bob went to Holland, his first time there, and completed high school In 1957 he came to the U S , became a citizen, graduated from FDU, and then became our Chapter Chair in 1988! Bob Noll passed away on July 22, 2014, having overcome great obstacles to find a home in America and fortunately for us in the service of the NYSCC
10
Photograph of Ken Klein (left) and Steve Herman (right) at the March 1988 NYSCC monthly meeting.
n 1988 NYSCC Board
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Bob Knoll ca. 1990.
n 1988 NYSCC Program
January Antiperspirants (Jack Margres)
February Claim Substantiation in the Current Regulatory Climate (Peter Pugliese)
March Microcomputers and Cosmetic Chemists (Greg Hoynak and Ken Klein)
April New Proteins and Derivatives for Cosmetics (Geoffrey Brooks)
April FDU One-Day Symposium on Skin and Hair Care
May Suppliers’ Day
September Serendipity and Dumb Luck (Graham Barker)
October Full-Day Seminar on “Creams and Lotions – State of the Art”
October Odioso’s Laws of Marketing (Raymond Odioso)
November Career Day (Bill Hanley, Patrick McCarren, and Gale Harris)
n 1988 Annual Seminar of the NYSCC
n 1988 FDU One-Day Symposium on Skin and Hair Care
O c t o b e r 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 8 11
y the only Tr able ainable Rene Hand w vhar Sus , tes t ed, , Mineral-rich, Ultra Fine Glacial Marine Clay Powder. r.
Invoke the Senses: World of Color and Fragrances
November 8, 2023
5:00 – 8:00 p.m.
Pleasantdale Château
757 Eagle Rock Avenue, West Orange, NJ
hile consumers are increasingly concerned about sustainability and new claims constantly arriving on the market, there is still no for mal definition of sustainable fragrance ingredients In this seminar, we will explore the multiple concepts that can fall under this general ter m We will explore the notion of natural and synthetic ingredients, biodegradability, carbon renewability, and regulatory ISO nor ms, and see holistically how they can contribute to making a fragrance sustainable
WTo register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
n Mike Davies
Mike Davies has worked in the personal care industry for more than thirty years with experience as a for mulator at Chattem (now Chattem/Sanofi) and Amway, and currently with Essential Ingredients as Technical Fellow.
n V ictor Manes
Bor n in the picturesque south of France, the birthplace of moder n perfumery, Victor Mane is a fifth generation family member of the eponymous family owned and operated fragrance company: V.MANE FILS. Trained as a chemist, V ictor joined the company in 2015 From 2019 to 2022, he steered the Asian Home and Fabric Care Fragrance Division in Shanghai, gaining invaluable experience in the dynamic Asian market Currently, in the role of Fragrance Ingredient Director, he remains close to his true passion the world of fragrance raw materials Alongside his family members, his mission is to perpetuate the company ’ s perfumery legacy for generations to come
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O c t o b e r 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 8 13 Inspired by nature –Realized by science mibellebiochemistry.com
December 12, 2023
7:00 – 11:00 p.m.
Edison Ballroom, New York, NY
Attire: Festive white • Cost: $175 per person
Held in conjunction with the December SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Showcase, the NYSCC Supports Education Night will be held at one of New York City’s most iconic venues located in Central Times Square Show your support of NYSCC education scholarships and grants and join us for a night of festivities, networking, and much more!
The world of cosmetics is ever changing, especially as more and more consumers focus on their health, wellness, individuality, and purpose. Consumers are more aware of the tremendous impact we have on the environment and are mindful and intentional in their purchasing decisions The beauty and personal care industry represented by the NYSCC acknowledges this shift and is actively making strides to meet the demand of consumers who are driving the change, which starts with engaging students involved in this evolution! By facilitating and furthering education in the beauty and personal care industry, we will be well-equipped to source and create ingredients that meet consumers ’ demands
For event infor mation, please reach out to Giorgino Macalino – Event Lead Organizer for NYSCC Awards Night Events at gmacalino0713@gmail.com. For sponsorship inquiries, please reach out to Jane McDer mott (jmcder mott@ecmallp com) Numerous sponsorship packages and private seating areas are available for your company and guests.
2023 NYSCC Events Calendar
• For updated NYSCC infor mation, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org
• For National SCC infor mation: www.scconline.org
October 9 INDIE 360°, CONVENE, 75 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY
November 2 Hear from the CEW Supplier’s Award Judges on this Year's Top Ingredients and Formulations – Virtual
November 8 Invoke the Senses: World of Color and Fragrances, Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ
December 11 NYSCC and CACPA Collaboration, CONVENE, 75 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY
December 11-13 SCC Scientific Meeting and Showcase, New York, NY
December 12 NYSCC Supports Education: Winter Awards Night, Edison Ballroom, New York, NY
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NYSCC and CACPA Collaboration
December 11, 2023
8:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.
75 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY
This event will focus on navigating beaty and personal care sourcing and product development in China.
This program will kick-off a week-long SCC immersion, so be sure you are registered for the SCC Annual Meeting and Showcase which starts Monday after noon!
To register, visit the SCC website (www.scconline.org).
NYSCC at CEW Beauty Bazaar
As sponsors of the Supplier’s Award in the CEW Beauty Awards program, the NYSCC had an exhibit at its Beauty Bazaar on September 21st at Chelsea Industrial This immersive event revealed and celebrated this year ’ s finalists of these prestigious CEW Beauty awards, including the eight finalists of the Supplier’s Award Category for Ingredients and For mulation Here are some photos from the event including Toussaint Jordan, Ron Robinson, and Mike Wong judges for the Supplier’s Award visiting the NYSCC exhibit The winners in all categories will be announced on November 7th at the CEW Beauty Awards luncheon.
N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 16 PROTAMEEN Tom Balsamides 375 Minnisink Road Totowa NJ Cell 201.207.0570 PROTAMEENTOMB@AOL.COM WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM Supplier of specialty materials!
CONVENE