November 2020 • Vol. 26 • Issue 9
Seventy Fifth Anniversary of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Founded by Maison G. de Navarre— An Overview of his Numerous Accomplishments and Contributions to our Society and Industry
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…by Paul Thau
s one of the few current Society of Cosmetic Chemists members who had the opportunity to meet Maison G. de Navarre, I decided to search the literature to recount his numerous contributions to our industry. Early in my career I worked at Warner-Lambert. During that time (1963), Maison de Navarre visited the company to meet with Martin Rieger and Charles Fox, both active members of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. At the conclusion of their meeting, I was asked to drive Maison to Morristown Airport. During this trip, he told me about some of his past activities. I distinctly recall him telling me that in 1946 when he was employed by Beauty Counselor, they had considerable success with his innovative formulations, such as Liquid Beauty, which was widely recognized as the first emulsion makeup foundation. In fact, he told me that Charles Revson (the founder of Revlon) attempted to acquire this product from Beauty Counselor without success. Maison’s career in the cosmetic chemistry started in the pharmaceutical field. He received his Bachelor’s degree in Pharmacy from Wayne University in 1930. It was a difficult year for a recent graduate while the country was at the brink of the Great Depression. There were very few jobs for pharmacists, but Maison had enough confidence in himself to be a consultant to a cosmetic firm. Despite the fact that his background was primarily in pharmacy, he was able to begin a long-term relationship with George Beeman, the founder of Beauty Counselor. In addition to consulting work, he also began establishing himself as a voice for the cosmetic industry by writing articles for trade magazines that covered cosmetics, starting with The American Perfumer. The first article Maison wrote for this magazine was about “Absorption Bases,” which appeared in the December 1932 issue. In 1935, Maison’s valuable contributions to The American Perfumer resulted in him becoming Technical Editor of this magazine. He was genuinely interested in improving manufacturing standards for cosmetics. He did this through his consulting business as well as writing articles for trade journals, books, and educational programs. Maison’s extensive knowledge and interest in all aspects of cosmetic chemistry led to him writing the book The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics in 1941, which was widely acclaimed. Despite his earlier efforts that did not come to fruition, in May 23, 1945, the founding meeting of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists was held at the Hotel Lexington in New York City. On December 5, (continued on Page 4) 1945, the first meeting of the newly formed Society of Cosmetic Chemists was held with Maison de Navarre its
C L E A N B E A U T Y – AT H O M E L I V E
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NOVEMBER 19th
...see pages 6-7 for more information.
2020 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chairman Giorgino Macalino gmacalin@estee.com Chair-Elect Susanna Fernandes fernandes.susie@gmail.com Treasurer Stephen Carter treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Mohamed Abdulla treasurer-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Leor Fay Tal secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Sonia Dawson advisor@nyscc.org Program Maria Mo program@nyscc.org By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Cathy Piterski cathy.piterski@givaudan.com Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com Social Media Estelle Gu socialmedia@nyscc.org
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Letter from the Chairman …Giorgino Macalino
s we give thanks, I would like to give a huge thank you to all for your agility this past year as we faced a pervasive force that changed our world. We made adjustments, we launched new initiatives, and we focused on our members. Their diversity, uniqueness, and, ultimately, their talent enabled us to craft programming and events that have provided us with a global presence! October’s educational programming included our first ever Effect Pigments Symposium, as well as Blue Light Myth, which was part of our At Home Live Series. Adam Rosen, Account Manager – Cosmetics, EMD Performance Materials, chaired and moderated the Effect Pigments Symposium, which attracted 109 registrants and was supported by event sponsors, which included EMD, Gelest, Grant, Miyoshi, and UMC. Leor Fay Tal with Gattefossé, who also serves as the NYSCC Secretary, was the presenter for “Blue Light Myth.” Over 430 people signed on for the program, which was clearly in demand, especially as we all juggle multiple digital devices over the course of a 24-hour period! Coming up on November 13th is the formal presentation of the CEW Supplier’s Award, sponsored by NYSCC Suppliers’ Day. While the winner—Ashland for its Mineral-Based Sun Stick SPF 50—was announced on September 30th during our Week of Beauty, the presentation of all categories within the prestigious CEW Beauty Awards will take place on November 13th. We are working closely with CEW for another celebratory Awards Program. Please be sure to check it out. On November 19th, we will have our final At Home Live program featuring Clean Beauty. Moderated by Giorgio Dell’Acqua, the program includes: Rona Berg, Editorial Director – Organic Spa Media; Mathias Fleury, Category Manager – Biotech Active Ingredients, Givaudan; and Tina Hedges, Founder – LOLI Beauty. The program will look to define Clean Beauty and what’s driving the growth of this category. At the conclusion of the Clean Beauty webinar, we will have our 2021 Executive Board Induction Ceremony. As many of you may already know, Giorgio Dell’Acqua will join the 2021 Executive Board as Chair-Elect. Sonia Dawson steps down as Advisor and Stephen Carter as Treasurer. This is certainly not a formal goodbye to these colleagues as we look forward to working with them in the future in different capacities! The 74th Annual SCC Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase takes place virtually December 7-11, 2020. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day will have a “booth” at the event and will also push out select educational offerings crafted for our At Home Live Series and relaunched for On Demand consumption through the New Year. Stay tuned for full details! Before the end of my term as 2020 Chairman, I will ensure the successful integration of the new Scholarship Committee Team, which will include a diverse group of NYSCC members. They will help expand our scholarship reach to future generations of chemists. I am proud to spearhead this initiative to ensure its strategic longevity. Stay tuned as we plan on introducing this new committee in all our communication platforms. In addition, be sure to look for details on our “Mentor-Mentee Mixer” scheduled for midDecember hosted by our very own Yana Melnikova, as well as our “Lunch & Learn Look-Back” where I will have a “conversation” with my fellow Board Members about 2020 and the lessons we learned, professionally and personally. We are moving forward with Suppliers’ Day 2021 with 2nd quarter dates and have already crafted plans that include both live and virtual access so that we can continue to reach all corners of the globe. More than 80% of the previous exhibitors have confirmed their space for the show scheduled for May 4-5, 2021 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. Please watch for our updates as they roll out over the coming weeks. In closing, I wish you all the best for Thanksgiving and the start of the Holiday Season. I truly am grateful to my fellow board and committee members who volunteer countless hours (That seemed to have tripled over lock-down!) to further our mission of education and excellence in cosmetic chemistry.
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2020 NYSCC Events Calendar
• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org
November 19 December 15-16
At Home Live Webinar Series – Clean Beauty and NYSCC 2021 Executive Board Induction NYSCC Mentor-Mentee Mixer
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Seventy Fifth Anniversary of The Society of Cosmetic Chemists
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first president. In recognition of his contributions the society named its highest honor—the Maison G. de Navarre Medal—after him. During his position at Beauty Counselor, Maison began to establish relationships with chemists around the world. Many people had read his book and columns in The American Perfumer and were looking forward to meeting him on his travels. He used these contacts to actively campaign for the formation of an international federation. This became a reality on September 8, 1959, with the establishment of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) with Maison as its first Maison G. de Navarre president. Among the countries represented were: Belgium, Denmark, France, Germany, Great Britain, Norway, and Sweden. Similar to the American Society of Cosmetic Chemists, the international federation recognized Maison’s role in its establishment and growth with the creation of the Maison de Navarre Young Scientist Prize, which is awarded biannually.
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As an overview after seventy-five years since the establishment of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, we cannot overestimate the persistent efforts of Maison G. de Navarre to form our society and to contribute knowledge about cosmetic chemistry through his articles, books, and “Desiderata” column in The American Perfumer. His ability to bring people together to share information was an outstanding skill that was essential for the foundation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists that we know today. ____________________________________________________________
About the Author
Paul Thau was employed at Cosmair/L’Oréal USA for over 22 years, during which time he served as Assistant Vice-President of Cosmetic R&D and then as Senior Research Fellow. His cosmetic industry experience spans more than fifty years and includes R&D positions at Revlon, Bristol-Myers, CIBA Pharmaceutical, and Warner-Lambert. Paul has served the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in many capacities including Chairman of the New York Chapter in 1971 and President of National in 1988. Later he was a member of the IFSCC Presidium and Scientific Committee. Paul is a Fellow of the SCC and holds fifteen U. S. patents. He was presented with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Maison de Navarre Award in 2005. From 1999 until 2014, Paul ran a cosmetic consulting company, PaCar Tech, which specialized in the areas of innovative product development, new cosmetic raw materials, technology transfer, and technology acquisition. Paul may be reached by e-mail (Pathau21@gmail.com) or mobile telephone (908-451-9558).
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Call for Papers
he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu. 4
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Mentor Ambassador
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To register, go to the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
he NYSCC Mentorship program is a pioneering initiative in the cosmetic science industry dedicated to building meaningful and authentic connections.
Our mission is rooted in inspiration, sharing of knowledge, and networking. Together, we strive to develop industry insights and to enrich and advance our members’ personal and professional growth so we may reach our fullest potential as scientists and as future leaders. We are committed to uphold strong ethical values and work in alignment and partnership with the NYSCC. Our goal for the program is to connect industry professionals to create strong mentor-mentee relationships, and hold special events with a focus on networking as well as personal and professional development.
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Clean Beauty November 19, 2020 At Home Live
he pandemic has seen the rise of Clean Beauty increase as consumers demand high performance with clean ingredients and formulations. Join us as we define “Clean Beauty” and learn what’s driving the growth of this category. To register, go to the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
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Agenda n Event Moderator – Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D. n Clean Beauty: What Do Consumers Want? – Rona Berg SILAB creates and manufactures unique, consistently safe, natural active ingredients with proven efficacy.
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n Clean Beauty for a Healthier Life: Protecting the Natural Melatonin Cycle – Mathias Fleury
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n A Journey to Unbottle Clean Beauty – Tina Hedges
Speaker Biographies
Giorgio Dell’Acqua – NYSCC Scientific Committee Chair
fter obtaining his Ph.D. in Cell Biology in 1989, Giorgio Dell’Acqua worked for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research, including Mount Sinai Medical School in New York and Harvard Medical School in Boston. Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 20 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. As a consultant, he directed R&D, Science, Product Development, and Innovation at contract manufacturers, brands, and ingredient companies (among others La Prairie, Dior, Kiehls, Nutrafol, Induchem, Vantage), specializing in skin and hair care applications. Giorgio has helped to bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market, has authored more than 70 publications in medicine and cosmetic science, and has been a presenter and a keynote speaker in more than 20 events and conferences in the last two years. Some of his recent product development activity has focused on waste upcycling to cosmetics, prebiotics, adaptogens, and social progress in sustainability. He is also an award-winning speaker on natural ingredients, a regular writer on sustainability, and an Adjunct Professor in the Cosmetic Science Graduate Program at Fairleigh Dickinson University. 6
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Rona Berg – Editorial Director, Organic Spa Media
ona Berg is a renowned beauty and sustainable lifestyle expert, editorial director, content creator, brand strategist, and bestselling author of Beauty: The New Basics and Fast Beauty: 1000 Quick Fixes. For the past eight years she has been the Editorial Director of Organic Spa Media, the premier national consumer wellness and sustainable lifestyle magazine and website in the United States today. Berg is the former Editorial Director of ELLE, Deputy Lifestyle Editor and Beauty Editor for The New York Times Magazine, Contributing Editor to SPA and SELF magazines and Advisory Board member of SHAPE. She has written for hundreds of national consumer publications, including Vogue, ELLE, The New York Times Magazine, O, Robb Report, Real Simple, InStyle, and has appeared on The Today Show, Dateline, Martha Stewart Living, and Fox News. A leading pioneer in natural, organic, and clean beauty, she wrote the first piece on nontoxic hair and nail salons for The New York Times over 20 years ago, and is known for always being ahead of the curve. Entrepreneur magazine wrote recently, “She’s been leading the charge for clean beauty.” Berg has advised many beauty, wellness, and spa brands on how to become greener and more sustainable. The recipient of the American Spa 2020 Women in Wellness Environmental Leadership Award, she was on the Board of Directors of the Green Spa Network, and has been cited as an industry expert in beauty, spa, sustainability, and travel in USA Today, Wall Street Journal, Forbes, New York Magazine, The Huffington Post, The Los Angeles Times, Glamour, Town & Country, HEALTH, and The Daily Mail. Berg has been a featured speaker at the New York Times Travel Show, International Spa Association Conference (ISPA), HBA Global Expo, Indie Beauty Expo, and Green Spa Network Congress. Connect with her on Instagram or FaceBook at @ronaberg. ____________________________________________________________
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Mathias Fleury – Category Manager, Biotech Active Ingredients
athias Fleury is the Category Manager for Biotech Active ingredients, creating the link between the science and technical knowledge from the R&D department, and the creativity and marketing tools needed by the sales network to best communicate to the final customer. Passionate about beauty and cosmetics, Mr. Fleury holds an M.S. in Colloidal Science, with a specialization in Cosmetics, from the French National Superior School for Chemistry (ENSCL) in Lille. _________________________________________________________
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nown as the beauty shaman, Tina Hedges blends her skills as a product innovator with her passion for botanical alchemy to build successful beauty and wellness brands. At heart, Tina is a magical herbalist inspired by pure, superfood ingredients and their potent effects for skin, hair, and body. Of Cuban descent, Tina grew up in Jamaica where she learned to use powerful botanicals harvested from the Caribbean Sea and the Blue Mountain to help restore balance to both the body and the soul. Tina then spent many years at multinational beauty companies like Estée Lauder and L’Oréal learning the science behind beauty before launching her first award winning, breakthrough start-up—a vegan, sulfate free hair care brand featured on Bravo TV’s reality show, Blowout, in 2005. Then Tina turned the functional beverage sector on its head with the creation of a new category called “hangover prevention”. Her most recent launch, LOLI Beauty (www.lolibeauty.com), is the world’s first zero waste, superfood skincare brand. LOLI’s MADE SAFE® certified products are upcycled from organic food supply, waterless, vegan, and cruelty free. LOLI packages using recyclable, reusable, and garden compostable materials. LOLI’s transformative approach to stirring up a clean, conscious change in beauty has resulted in LOLI (which stands for Living Organic Loving Ingredients) winning the CEW Sustainability Excellence Award in 2019, a Shorty Social Good Award, a Byrdie Eco-conscious Award, and a place as a member of the Tory Burch Fellowship Class of 2020, Grand Central Tech’s Class of 2017/18, and Project Entrepreneur. Tina was also a performing member of the NYC Ballet, served on the advisory board of GCI (Global Cosmetics Industry) magazine and the NGO Friends of Caritas Cubanas.
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NYSCC Volunteers
s we prepare for the future, I would like to remind you that even during these unpredictable and challenging times, the NYSCC has remained a vibrant source of education and engagement. There is still time to be a part of this and make your mark in NYSCC history! As your incoming Chair for 2021, I am in the midst of finalizing programming, specialty events, and awards programs. All of these events are conceptualized and brought to fruition by you, our members. Member volunteers gain incredible networking opportunities that span the globe while providing real value to their colleagues. If you have not already done so, I urge you to consider becoming a part of this incredible team! We are now accepting applications for volunteers: please click through and COMPLETE THE FORM to receive consideration for a volunteer position. After we review your application, we will contact you and arrange a call so together we can ascertain the best fit for you within our committees and future projects. Stay safe and I look forward to being with all of you in 2021! Susanna Fernandes 2021 NYSCC Chair
Employment Opportunities
For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org/jobs/.
n Sales Manager Bloomage Biotechnology USA, Inc. Parsippany, NJ
n Director of Manufacturing Pure Haven Johnson, RI
n Formulation Chemist Intermountain Blending & Filling (Scentsy) Meridian, ID
n Business Manager – Mild Surfactants TRI-K Industries Denville, NJ
n Regulatory Affairs Associate Micro Powders, Inc. Tarrytown, NY
n Coordinator – Global Compliance and Regulatory Barnet Products Englewood Cliffs, NJ
n Cosmetic Chemist Ecoco Jacksonville, FL n Senior Sales Manager – Personal Care – Americas IOI OLeo GmbH n Account Manager Ethox Chemicals, LLC Greenville, SC
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n Senior Manager – Regulatory Affairs Presperse Somerset, NJ n Personal Care Business Development Representative Gelest Morrisville, PA n Chemist Tata Harper Skincare Whiting, VT
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Mac Bhuta—A Pioneer in Aerosol Technology who Shared his Encyclopedic Knowledge and Expertise Globally
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…by Paul Thau
ase of application has made aerosols one of the most demanded product forms in personal care. Many innovative launches in this form, including hair sprays, shaving foams, sunless tanners, and sunscreens, among others, have been very popular. Technologies continue to advance this product category, and Mukund “Mac” Bhuta, who had over 50 years of experience with aerosols, was responsible for a number of them. I met Mac early in my career when he was employed at Pennwalt Corporation and provided me with an overview of hydrocarbon propellant usage for shaving creams. Many years later, when I was employed at Cosmair R&D and he was Director of R&D at a small aerosol firm in NJ, he was instrumental in helping me to develop an Mukund “Mac” Bhuta aerosol foam skin product containing 20% petrolatum and only 1.5 % nonionic emulsifier. This was quite an accomplishment that I was skeptical could be achieved. A U.S. patent for this commercial product was issued to L’Oréal two years later (U.S. Patent 4,981,677). Mac joined Cosmair/L’Oréal a few years later, where he had a long and productive career. Mac Bhuta began his career in 1962 at Pennwalt Corporation, a major propellant manufacturer. As a chemist there, he worked to adapt aerosol products such as hair sprays, shave foams, industrial formulas, and more with fluorocarbon propellants—and was quickly introduced to the ins and outs of these applications. He was charged with selecting the correct valves, actuators, can materials, and internal varnishes as well as testing the finished products for compatibility, functionality, flammability, weight loss, etc. In the years following, he moved on to positions at Wyeth Pharmaceutical, Phillips Petroleum, and L’Oréal USA. Each position taught him invaluable lessons that he continued to share as an aerosol consultant. After Mac’s retirement from L’Oréal USA in early 2000, he continued his activities as an aerosol consultant and traveled the world for an agency of the United Nations to instruct individuals and companies on the basics of safety issues related to propellant storage and usage, and engineering aspects of aerosol production. In addition, he was contracted by several major companies in the United States to assist their staff members in a range of activities related to innovative spray delivery systems. One of the innovations in spray technology that he was involved with as a consultant was: bag-onvalve systems due to VOC regulations. This innovation involves a bag made from four different layers of polyethylene terephthalate attached to a valve. A simple hair spray is placed in the bag while the propellant is placed around the bag in the can. This way, the propellant never contacts the hair spray and it is not sprayed from the product. The pressure increases outside of the bag, releasing the contained product. I maintained a personal and collegial relationship with him for many years after we retired from L’Oréal USA. We met for lunch several times each year to share our mutual experiences. Mac had serious medical conditions during the last four years of his life. However, one of the creative ways that he maintained his equilibrium was by working on PowerPoint presentations related to the basics of aerosol technology. He donated this information to those in the world community interested in the basics of aerosol technology (see www.Aerosol101.com and www.Aerosol102.com). Aerosol 101 and 102 are websites offering free information on the basics of aerosol technologies including containers, valves, and actuators, as well as aerosol-related topics ranging from test methods, regulations, and safety to calculations and global warming. Visitors can also download free PowerPoint presentations and quiz themselves on their knowledge of aerosols. Mac Bhuta, aerosol consultant and website creator, had over 50 years of experience working with aerosol products and formulations in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, household, industrial products, and more. He was an exceptional person who mentored many in his field and left a significant legacy for others in related fields of technology.
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