Cosmetiscope December 2022

EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE

Chair

Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair@nyscc org

Chair-Elect

Stacey House chair-elect@nyscc.org

Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc org

Treasurer-Elect

Alex Blakeman treasure-elect@nyscc.org

Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc org

Advisor

Susanna Fer nandes advisor@nyscc.org

Program

Cathy Piterski program@nyscc org

At Home Live Series

Gino Macalino gmacalin@estee com

By-Laws

Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com

Communications

Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc org

Special Events

Johanna Gigliotti johanna@deverauxspecialties.com

Cosmetiscope Editor

Roger Mcmullen roger mcmullen@fdu edu

Cosmetiscope Advertising

Bret Clark rbclark@ashland com

Social Media

Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc org

Letter from the Chair …Giorgio Dell’Acqua

Wow! I can’t believe my year as Chair is coming to an end It has been an honor and pleasure to serve this Chapter at its highest level It is with a great sense of pride I look back on what we have accomplished this year and I am indebted to my hard-working executive board and the incredible volunteers who made it all happen.

A key milestone this year started with getting back to a full and successful schedule of in-person events. Every month our event chairs raised the bar on providing insightful programs on timely topics that featured world class speakers W ith sold-out attendance or targets reached, these educational programs were on the mark It was also great to reinstate our social activities with lots of networking and good times at our golf, fishing, and culinary events

Of course, having Suppliers’ Day take place during its traditional May timeframe was a thrill and to have our focus on science and sustainability come to life for two days was rewarding The event had strong, qualified attendance and its future trajectory is very bright as the main annual event in North America for ingredients and for mulation innovations New partnerships and inter national outreach are being for med and solidified for the 2023 program, providing even more value to our members and the entire beauty and personal care community.

Truly a highlight of my tenure was the “Careers in Cosmetic Chemistry” program that we held in person at Saint John’s University and Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), as well as virtually for Rutgers University To meet with so many students and make them aware of all the career opportunities in cosmetic chemistry was extremely gratifying and I am excited and optimistic about the future talent pool for this industry.

The committees focused on students and young professionals also had a great year, with three times the number of scholarships and grants being awarded on December 7th. Read about all the recipients of this expanded program inside this issue We also increased our mentorship pairings as well as the number of students participating in the Future Chemists Workshop

My sincere gratitude to my peers, committee members, and the board for their unique skills, knowledge, and support that made this year a success on so many levels I want to especially thank my executive board Stacey, Luciana, Mo, and Alex whom I relied on throughout the year, and Susanna for her guidance as Advisor However, I do need to thank every single member as all of you contributed to the advancement of our chapter and its mission. The support and genuine enthusiasm this chapter has is unique and the camaraderie was evident at all our events and programs

I can now pass the gavel to Stacey House with a feeling of great satisfaction and accomplishment, but also excitement and anticipation for the incredible future ahead for this flagship SCC chapter W ishing NYSCC members much joy, good health, and prosperity this holiday season and I look forward to seeing you again at our events in 2023

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Issues

Call for Presentations

Take advantage of thought leadership positioning at the premier event serving the North American ingredients and formulations event, NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, taking place on May 2-3, 2023, at the Jacob K Javits Convention Center Programs will focus on the global marketplace and specific segments including fragrance, INDIE solutions, biotech, microbiome, digital solutions, sustainability, diversity/inclusion, and wellness to name a few!

Submit your presentation description/details today at the NYSCC 2023 Suppliers’ Day website.

2022: The Year in 2022: The Year in Review Review

Letter from the 2023 Chair …Stacey House

It is an honor and a privilege to be your incoming Chapter Chair Throughout

my career, I have been so fortunate to have met and worked with some of the best in the industry, who not only taught me the scientific fundamentals, but also infused my passion and creativity for this industry As 2023 is in sight, I am excited to get down to business and to build upon the incredible work that has been done by Giorgio Dell’Acqua and the chairs before him

Our educational programs, anchored by Suppliers’ Day, will continue to dominate the landscape and move the needle forward in R&D, product development, and brand creation W ith the stressors that we have all experienced in the last few years from the pandemic, the Chapter will also focus on “Reimagining Renewal and Wellness ” We will explore how wellness and eco-consciousness touches all areas of industry including devices, home care, and inside/out beauty, as well as feminine and intimate care.

Please take the time to read this retrospective issue that highlights all that the Chapter accomplished and gave to the community in 2022. W ith the expertise and guidance of the new executive board members Amber Evans, Luciana Coutinho, and Alex Blakeman, and of course Giorgio Dell’Acqua, my trusted Advisor we will be able to continue this Chapter’s mission of focusing on education in cosmetic science and elevating the role and prominence of chemists. I am also looking forward to working with our dedicated program and committee chairs in offering diverse content and experiences that will be relevant and timely. I truly believe that having collaborative e x c h a n g e s p ro m o t e s g ro w t h a n d i n n o v a t i v e v i s i o n a n d l o o k f o r w a rd t o w o r k i n g w i t h e v e n m o re organizations and associations to foster, promote, and advance the Chapter’s mission Our outreach and support of students and mentorship of young professionals will continue to expand, and I look forward to sharing the exciting new initiatives we have planned May the beauty, happiness, and peacefulness of thi h lid d d heers to a very bright New Year!

NYSCC/Suppliers’ Day Participates in SCC National Event in Los Angeles

NYSCC/Suppliers’ Day will be participating in SCC76 – The Annual Scientific Meeting & Showcase of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists taking place December 12-14, 2022, at the JW Marriott LA LIVE in Los Angeles, Califor nia. If you are attending, please stop by our exhibit (#701) during the Showcase Exhibition hours While there, you can enter to win a free trip to NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City on May 2-3, 2023, at the Jacob K Javits Convention Center This will include travel, hotel, and registration for NYSCC programs of your choice over the course of the event, which has come to be known as NYSCC’s Week of Beauty!

Platinum Sponsorship of this event provides a great opportunity to network with fellow West Coast members We look forward to hosting another Suppliers’ Day “Press & Friends” gathering on Tuesday, December 13th in gratitude for partnership and support over 2022. We hope to see you in Los Angeles!

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2022 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC infor mation, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org

• For National SCC infor mation: www.scconline.org

January 19 A Celebration of Color Lightbox, New York, NY

February 17 Artificial Intelligence and its Application in Personal Care Legacy Castle, Pompton Plains, NJ

March 30 Clean Beauty Chart House, Weehawken, NJ

April 20 Skin and Hair Diversity Seasons, Washington Township, NJ

May 3-4 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

June 16 NYSCC Boat Trip Atlantic Yachts, Weehawken, NJ

June 30 NYSCC Natural Ingredients Symposium Brooklyn Botanic Garden, Brooklyn, NY

July 25 NYSCC Golf Tour nament Crystal Springs Golf Course, Hamburg, NJ

August 13 NYSCC Fishing Trip Atlantic Highlands, NJ

September 8 Sunscreens – The Latest Updates and the Impact on the Environment Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ

September 29 NYSCC Culinary Event Natirar, Peapack and Gladstone, NJ

October 12 Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity, Social Progress, Circularity Central Park Boathouse, New York, NY

November 8 Scalp and Skin Microbiome Nanina’s in the Park, Belleville, NJ

December 7 NYSCC Supports Education Night 2022 –The Edison Ballroom, Hotel Edison, New York, NY

December 12-14 SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase –JW Marriott L A Live, Los Angeles, CA

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Meet the Future of Cosmetic Chemistry

NYSCC Supports the Next Generation with Several Programs Including Careers in Cosmetic Chemistry

by Tom Branna, Editorial Director, Happi

This article originally appeared in Happi, published on November 10, 2022

It’s one of the best-kept secrets in the recruiting business A career in cosmetics is rewarding, exciting, and fun. No wonder why most chemists, marketing execs, and sales reps never leave the beauty industry they just move to another marketer or supplier

But in order to begin a career in cosmetics, newbies must know where to start. The New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) is providing a roadmap for soon-to-be graduates by hosting panel discussions on careers in cosmetic chemistry The NYSCC Career in Cosmetic Chemistry series provides a forum where college students can ask beauty industry executives about their careers

Panelists include:

• Dr Sue Feng, Ph D , CSO, ET Browne

• Dr. Tao Zheng, Ph D , MBA, Director, Advanced Technologies/Material Science, Estée Lauder and SCC Scientific Committee

• Dr. Amber Evans, Ph.D., Senior Manager, Product Development, Moroccanoil and NYSCC Scientific Committee

• Toussaint Jordan, Brand Manager, Edgewell and Chair, NYSCC Scholarship Committee

• Dr Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph D , CSO, Nutrafol and Chair, NYSCC

• Stacey House, Senior Vice President, R&D Consumer Beauty Color and Skin, Coty LATAM and Chair-Elect, NYSCC

So far, the panel has traveled to the campuses of St John’s University in Queens and the Fashion Institute of Technology in Manhattan They have also traveled (virtually) to New Jersey to the New Brunswick Campus of Rutgers University. Panelists shared their personal career jour neys, discussed hot topics in cosmetic chemistry and personal care, and answered questions from inquisitive, young minds The program excited students and panelists, alike.

“All of us walk away from these events energized by the keen interest displayed by this next generation of talent,” said Dell’Acqua “We want to get young chemists, as well as students in marketing and sales, interested in the cosmetics industry. They have choices, and some go into phar maceuticals or the food industry ”

To convince students to make the right choice and choose cosmetics, NYSCC has four initiatives:

• Scholarships to support students financially

• Mentorship to support students by connecting with beauty industry veterans.

• Future Chemists Workshops to expose students to a laboratory atmosphere

• Career in Cosmetic Science Panel to expose them to experts in the field

About 50 students attended the recent Career in Cosmetic Science Panel at FIT. According to Dell’Acqua, students asked about ingredient sourcing, cosmetic regulations, and internship opportunities And, in a nod to the popularity of indie beauty, came the question, “Why don’t you create your own brand?” Short answer: It’s not as easy as you think, kid!

The Careers in Cosmetic Chemistry program is relatively new, but it’s already having an impact Dell’Acqua relayed a conversation he had earlier this year with two St. John’s University students. He urged them to register for NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Not only did the Red Stor m students attend Suppliers’ Day, they joined the Society and later, contacted Dell’Acqua to thank him

“It is very satisfying to know that you may have changed a student’s life,” Dell’Acqua told Happi. “When you give them access, when you open the door, they can walk right through it ”

2022 NYSCC Symposia and Seminars

January 19th

Light Box • New York, NY

Event Chair: Howard Epstein, Ph.D.

The Legacy Castle • Pompton Plains,

Event Chair: Hani Fares, Ph.D. March

Brooklyn Botanic Garden • Brooklyn, NY

Event Chair: Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.

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2022 CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Awards Winner

SymHair Ther mo by Symrise, Inc. is the 2022 CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Awards Winner

SymHair Thermo by Symrise, Inc was announced the winner of the prestigious CEW Beauty Creators Awards on November 11th at the Ziegfeld Ballroom during CEW’s 29th Beauty Creators Awards Luncheon This special award category for Supplier’s: Ingredients & For mulation is sponsored by the NYSCC and recognizes the role that ingredients, for mulation, and new technology plays in successful beauty and personal care product launches.

SymHair Ther mo is a sustainably sourced, 100% natural, vegan heat protection hair care active sourced from mushrooms It’s also infused with hyaluronic acid and polysaccharides In ter ms of benefits, this ingredient aims to protect hair from heat damage and maintain style longer, especially in high humidity. It also aims to be a silicone replacement for hair care for mulations

Symrise was one of eight finalists that were selected from more than three dozen submissions that were reviewed and voted upon by a curated panel of judges that included leading beauty and personal c a re b r a n d s a s w e l l a s m e m b e r s o f t h e N Y S C C S c i e n t i f i c A d v i s o r y C o m m i t t e e . T h e j u d g e s w e re : Toussaint Jordan, Brand Manager, Product Marketing, Edgewell; Eileen Kim, Head of U S Innovation and Research Prospective Team, Chanel; Ron Robinson, Founder/CEO, BeautyStat com; Mike Wong, Chief Science Officer, Orveon; and Tao Zheng, Director, Advanced Technologies/Material Science, The Estée Lauder Companies

The other CEW Supplier’s Award finalists were: Seanactiv by BASF; Berashades by Clariant; ChromaPur CV2 & CV7 by Croda; Nutrivent Balance by Croda; Elastapure by Geltor; Anti-Glyc-Aging Zinc Screen by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics; and Peptilium by Silab

“This award matters because it showcases the next generation of ingredients and for mulas that are key to creating beautiful, safe, and efficacious products,” said Eileen Kim one of the judges “It celebrates the work of suppliers to push the industry forward,” she added

CEW is a nonprofit, professional organization with more than 10,500+ members globally, both men and women, from over 3,500 companies in the beauty and retail industries.

kbarot@orchidia.com (732) 353-9706 www.orchidia.com

Sustainability and Cosmetics

by Tom Branna, Editorial Director, Happi

This article originally appeared in Happi, published on November 10, 2022

Sustainability remains front and center for cosmetic industry suppliers, for mulators and, most importantly, consumers. A February 2022 survey of 16,000 global consumers found that more than half (51%) of respondents say environmental sustainability is more important to them today than it was 12 months ago, according to a global survey conducted by IBM Institute for Business Value IBM also found that consumers ’ actions are starting to match their intent. Half of consumers said they’ve paid a premium a whopping average of 59% more for products branded as sustainable or socially responsible in the past 12 months.

W ith that in mind, the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) recently h e l d a n a l l - d a y s e m i n a r o n t h e t o p i c o f s u s t a i n a b i l i t y. T h e e v e n t w a s c o - c h a i re d b y S t a c e y H o u s e , KDC/One, and Ben Blinder, Gattefossé “Every year the NYSCC Chair pre-deter mines the monthly event program and the event chairs get to work to deter mine the location and identify the best speakers to support our focus. We select themes that are relevant to our members and the industry to keep all dialed i n t o c u r re n t t o p i c s , ” n o t e d H o u s e “ S u s t a i n a b i l i t y h a p p e n s t o b e o n e t h a t i s n o t a t re n d , b u t a n opportunistic challenge that impacts all of us today with our decisions starting from a product concept to our purchases ”

Blinder noted that NYSCC Chair Giorgio Dell’Acqua is heavily invested in the topic of sustainability, circularity, and naturality. “He gave us the general topic but left it to Stacey and me to organize the speakers and program, ” said Blinder “We received a lot of support from the NYSCC team to help organize the practical details of the event, such as booking the venue, publicity, and managing registrations. That allowed us to focus squarely on the content and the speakers ”

House said she was very pleased with the tur nout In fact, the event, held at The Loeb Boathouse in Central Park, New York City, was sold out and sustainability will again be on the NYSCC Seminar agenda in 2023

Blinder noted that people often think of sustainability simply as “recycling” and “reducing waste” but it is so much more than that “There is so much more to be done to improve sustainability in our industry, and the speakers gave us a lot to think about,” recalled Blinder. “They also made it personal; by that I mean that in addition to large-scale efforts the audience could support within their own companies, the speakers also suggested many things individuals can do on a personal level; for example, relating sustainability to concepts like diversity, equity, and inclusion.”

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Kamini Barot Sales Director - Americas

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All the World’s a Stage…for Sustainablity Efforts

Reuse is a key component of sustainability, yet it is a poor stepc most discussions regarding reduce-reuse-recycle Sandra Goldm Barnard College/Columbia Climate School, reworked the conversatio by pointing to a World Resource Institute study that found by doubling global circularity in the next 10 years, global greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions could be reduced by 39% and shrink the total material footprint by 28%

Sandra Goldmark  Bar nard College/Columbia Climate School

Reuse took centerstage when Goldmark detailed a Bar nard College case study involving stage scenery. “Thousands of pounds of stage scenery ended up in the dumpster,” she recalled In her study, Goldmark found all new scenery material cost $10,000. Half used/half new cost $5,000 and all used scenery cost just $2,000 Goldmark took those lessons to the street, with Fixup, a series pop-up repair shops all over New York City. The company was orig staffed by stagehands “Stagehands can fix anything,” she noted

Since its inception, the program has fixed lamps, small appliances, jewelry, clothing, and more Fixup partners with companies such as Patagonia and Darling Coffee, as well as organizations like the YMCA Next, she wrote a book on the experience, called Fixation: How to Have Stuff W ithout Breaking the Planet. “The circularity wave is happening,” Goldmark insisted, noting that by 2040, Target plans for 100% of its owned brand products to be designed for a circular future

Searching for Sustainability via Spate and Google

Spate mines Google search data to uncover trends in a vari industries Ironically, according to Spate Co-Founder Yarden Horw consumers are showing interest in “sustainability,” but are not usin that language for beauty. “In beauty, language is evolving, and certain categories are more top-of-mind for sustainability,” she said. For example, there’s been a 36.7% year-over-year increase in Google searches for “sustainable soap ” and related ter ms More impressive, searches for “sustainable nails” jumped 62 4% But at the same time, there’s been a 32 2% increase in searches related to “sustainable sunscreen ”

Yarden Horwitz, Spate 

“ C o n s u m e r s w e re l o o k i n g a t t e r m s s u c h a s ‘ re e f - s a f e sunscreen, ’” she noted Horwitz turned to the growing clean beauty trend. The top trending clean beauty brands based on Google sear data are: The Ordinary, Olaplex, Beautycounter, Supergoop, and Tat Fast-climbing beauty brands in the space include Merit y (144.7% year-over-year growth) and Topicals (134.8%). “Being a clean beauty brand doesn’t mean you’ll win, but it helps to build trust for new brands,” she concluded

Biology Is THE Technology

The NYSCC may need a new name. Biotechnology is reshaping the cosmetics industry, according to Arcaea’s Jasmina Aganovic She commended the industry’s move to a plant-based supply chain but noted that if Procter & Gamble moved its entire manufacturing procedures to a plant-based model, it wouldn’t find enough feedstock on the market Instead, Aganovic argued, the solution is biotech

She reviewed several common beauty ingredients and explained how biotech makes them better For example, panthenol was traditionally derived from petroleum, but the material can be created via

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bacterial fer mentation Squalene, at one time, was extracted from sharks but it can be made via yeast fer mentation. And hyaluronic acid humectant-of-the-moment, once came from rooster combs, now comes from bacteria

Jasmina

Aganovic,

Arcaea 

“Think about what we could create if we built products based on biotechnology,” she said “The future is expressive biology It is a new ingredient palette based on the Tree of Life!” Ginkgo Bioworks just does that The company programs cells to make everything from food to materials to therapeutics.

Arcaea was incubated in Ginkgo Bioworks and is a growing presence in the beauty business Earlier this year, Arcaea acquired Gadusol Laboratories, an Oregon State University spinout that seeks to synthetically produce UV-absorbing compounds found in marine life. No launch date has been set, but Aganovic has state her goal is “developing the cosmetic lab of the future” and buildi “biology-first minded beauty company. ”

What companies are investing in biotech? Aganovic used an X and Y axis graph to plot the leaders and laggards in the field Among global CPG companies, Natura and L’Oréal standout. Indie beauty leaders include The New and Beautycounter. Top biotech startups are Amyris and Checkerspot On the supply side, leaders include Givaudan, Croda, and Fir menich

How do these companies assess their progress? Aganovic said multinationals and their suppliers rely on globally recognized, science-based metrics For multinationals, that includes LCA-based targets that include Scope 3 emissions and consumer-use phase Leading suppliers also use Scope 3 emissions In contrast, according to Aganovic, only one indie brand, Beautycounter, mentions mapping 53 emissions and engaging their suppliers in sustainability efforts Other takeways? Among multinationals, zerodeforestation claims are universal and other ingredient related targets, such as 100% biobased (L’Oréal) and 100% biodegradable (Unilever) are beginning to emerge Among suppliers, ter ms like “bio-based” and “ no deforestation” are beginning to emerge Among indie brands, locally sourced and reduced transportation goals are unique to this category as they are feasible for smaller brands, according to Aganovic, citing third-party landscape assessments

To get started on a sustainability jour ney, Arganovic suggested the following steps: material assessment; target setting and reporting frameworks; product design with lifecycle thinking (design for the environment); supplier engagement; and exter nal partnerships. She noted that materiality defines what can have significant impact on the activities of an organization and on the ability of the organization to create value for itself and stakeholders Aganovic suggested using a globally recognized reporting framework and set of standards lends credibility to the numbers and, more importantly, provides guidance around impact She called the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) the most highly regarded reporting framework within the industry.

“The product design process must include life cycle thinking in order to achieve net positive impact for the company, ” she said “Industry leaders already have targets for 2030 across the whole product life cycle ” But to truly achieve net-zero or net-positive status, marketers must partner with suppliers The Carbon Disclosure Project and Ecovadis are two widely used organizations that help suppliers reach their sustainability goals. As a supplier, Aganovic noted that Arcaea will be subject to the ESG assessments that many large retailers use Walmart’s Supplier Sustainability Assessment Questionnaire is a good example

Connecting For mulators and Suppliers

How can for mulators find like-minded suppliers? Yashi Shrestha, Novi, walked attendees through the current jargon, noting that “clean beauty has evolved beyond ‘free of ’ claims.” To safety and efficacy requirement, the market demands sourcing and end-of-life data At the same time, ingredients and for mulas must have negligible impact on climate and society

She reviewed popular labels such as USDA Organic, Ecocert, and Credo and (continued on Page 14)

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n o t e d t h a t a s c o n s u m e r s d e m a n d m o re t r a n s p a re n c y, re t a i l e r s h a v e re s p o n d e d b y u p d a t i n g t h e i r policies and compelling brands to look deeper into their supply chains. “It is important for the industry to collaborate in order to improve transparency,” Shrestha explained “Novi enables data-driven for mula development ”

The company extracts thousands of data points from supplier documents which feed inter nal algorithms that vet ingredients and products Novi’s all-in-one workflow helps regulatory departments vet every ingredient against sustainability standards and claims and provides access to substantiating d o c u m e n t a t i o n f o r v a l i d a t i o n a s w e l l a s p ro d u c t re g i s t r a t i o n n e e d s F o r p ro c u re m e n t d e p a r t m e n t s ,

N o v i provides real-time access to supplier quotes and availability, and facilitates purchase orders, shipping, and transaction reports. For R&D departments, Novi’s marketplace allows discovery of innovative ingredients that meet the brand’s product briefs with readily available technical infor mation “We work directly with retailers, brands, and suppliers to infor m every side of the system. It is important for industry to collaborate in order to improve transparency ”

The Sustainable Packaging Picture

Adrian Apodaca, HCT Packaging, took to the podium and admitted, “I am a plastic addict. It is functional, cheap, and versatile ” And not good for the planet The new nor mal for beauty packaging, he said, is functional, sustainable, utilizes recyclable and/or recycled materials, and is refillable when possible “The main goal for new packaging is to reduce single use plastic as much as possible,” Apodaca insisted

He reviewed several cosmetic packages that do that Fenty’s Icon lipstick outer componentry contains PCR material It is refillable and dura many reuses. Similarly, Skkn by Kim packaging contains PCR mate Its refillable componentry is polypropylene and cartons are mad with recycled paper pulp. The Humanrace sun care line includes up to 60% PCR on outer componentry The refillable tubes make it possible for outer componentry reuse

Adrian Apodaca, HCT Packaging 

Despite these advances, it’s obvious that plastics will remain a key component of beauty packaging To improve sustainability profiles, the goal is to replace most if not all a component’s part list with a single material Traditionally, packagers used a variety of different plastics and other materials to fine-tune function and aesthetics for each part. Moving to single material is easier fo simple componentry like bottles, but it becomes a challenge f mechanical assemblies such as pumps and lipstick mechanisms, no Apodaca Some marketers are getting there NuSkin’s Nutric Hyaluronic Acid Pump, for example, has outer componentry made from polypropylene and PCR content Its refillable inner chamber is made from 100% polypropylene

Manufacturers and suppliers aren’t the only culprits in the plastics issue Apodaca noted that it takes plenty of diligence by end users to properly recycle components and proper recycling infrastructure is lacking in most of the U S “Even with proper recycling, there is a limit to how much PCR plastic can be used and how many times it can be recycled,” noted Apodaca.

Of course, plastic isn’t the only headache for recyclers Most cardboard palettes have an outer plastic coating that prevents them from getting properly recycled The best option is to use uncoated cardboard To further reduce recycling issues, Apodaca recommended tin jars replace outer plastic packaging. The inner container could be polypropylene for recyclability These innovations won’t cure the beauty industry’s plastic addiction but could temper it.

Transparency, Traceability, and Green Chemistry

Shaun Barker, Estée Lauder Companies (ELC), said sustainability has been central to how ELC and its brands have operated. But he also noted that many blame the cosmetics industry for making false

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claims and greenwashing Barker blamed it, in part, to a disconnect between cosmetic labels and consumer understanding. He pointed to a Mintel survey that found:

• 68% of respondents said it is important or extremely importa to consider the ingredients when deciding which products to buy.

• Only 2% of respondents understand the entire label

• 45% are often confused by the ingredients.

• 80% of U S consumers are confused regarding overall labeling

Shaun Barker, The Estée Lauder Companies 

To improve transparency at ELC, the company maintains glossaries on more than 100 key ingredients across 11 brands, as well as an ELC corporate glossary These glossaries detail the functionality, and in some cases, sourcing of these ingredients “We use blockchain for traceability,” Barker added. He noted that Aveda was one of the first beauty companies to launch a commerci blockchain. The technology debuted in 2019 and focused on Madagascan vanilla supply chain Consumers use online mapping t follow vanilla’s jour ney from Madagascar to France to Minnesota Now, the technology is expanding to other key ingredients. ELC incorporates green chemistry principles in its product development process

“It took 10 years to develop this system,” said Barker, explaining the company spent many years collaborating with experts in the field, assessing its inter nal capabilities, and developing tools to enable ELC teams to seamlessly leverage green chemist in their daily work Central to the ELC approach is the Green Score Program which, Barker explained, provides a quantifiable method for its for mulators to benchmark and infor m their for mulation choices based on the principles of green chemistry Green Score data can be leveraged to infor m and guide future innovation, according to Barker. Specific ingredient choices can have different magnitudes of impact on for mula Green Scores For example, impacts are influenced by for mulation choice complexity and respective ingredient Green Scores, use levels, and efficacies The tool will be continuously updated, too Barker reviewed several ELC packaging goals For example, by 2025, 75-100% of packaging will be recyclable, refillable, reusable, recycled, or recoverable. Also, by 2025, ELC will increase the amount of PCR material in its packaging to 25% or more He reviewed the company ’ s climate accomplishments such as sourcing 100% renewable electricity globally for its direct operations. The company has solar projects in New York, Minnesota, and Switzerland Regarding social investment, 95% of ELC brands identify causes that are meaningful to them Since 1992, The ELC Breast Cancer Campaign and Charitable Foundation have funded more than $108 million globally.

Cradle to Cradle Certified

Noting that 95% of packaging in the cosmetics industry is thrown away, Monica Becker, Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute, told attendees it is critical to for mulate for the circular economy “Today, only 8.6% of the global economy is circular,” she explained. “We need to get to 17% to make an impact ”

The Institute’s vision is a world where safe materials and products are designed and manufactured in a prosperous, circular economy to maximize health and wellbeing for people and planet. “The transition to renewable energy will address only 55% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions,” said Becker “The remaining 45% must be addressed by transfor ming the way we make and use products.”

The Cradle-to-Cradle principles are a design framework characterized by three principles derived from nature:

• Everything is a resource for something else

• Use clean and renewable energy

• Celebrate diversity

Shaping tomorrow’s beauty through innovation and formulation expertise

Explore what’s next with IMCD experts at imcdus.com.

BEAUTY

begins here.

Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care. GO

According to the Institute, safe, circular, and responsibly made cosmetics involve three channels:

• Ingredients that are safe for humans and the environment. They should be renewable, upcycled, rely on regenerative agriculture, and responsibly sourced

• Manufacturing that relies on renewable energy, water, and material efficiency, and respects human rights and fair and equitable business practices.

• Packaging that uses safe chemicals and materials; includes PCR and renewable content; is designed for refill, recycling, and composting systems; and supports infrastructure for circular systems.

Becker called the Cradle to Cradle Certified program the most ambitious and actionable standard yet for designing and manufacturing products and packaging that is safe, circular, and responsibly made. It addresses material health, product circularity, clean air, and climate protection; water and soil stewardship; and social fair ness She said the program provides a pathway to measurable improvements and innovation. The program certifies products, packaging, or both.

Cradle to Cradle-certified brands include: Beauty Kitchen, Blueland, Frosch, L’Oréal hair care (Carol’s Daughter, Garnier, L’Oréal Paris Elvive and Ever Pure, Pureology, and Redken), Maybelline, and Nu by YSL.

Going Beyond RSPO

The Roundtable for Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) got the conservation conversation going on one important cosmetic ingredient But what’s next? Laurent Schubnel, Gattefossé SAS, detailed Action on Sustainable Derivatives (ASD). The industry-led platform brings together companies in the home, personal care, and oleochemicals industries to collectively tackle supply chain issues around palm oil and palm ker nel oil derivatives.

This collaborative effort includes suppliers and for mulators who share the same objective and ambition to accelerate transfor mation of the complex palm derivatives sector ASD’s three main goals are: no deforestation, human rights respected, and livelihoods supported. The ASD framework for action includes transparency and monitoring, supply and market transfor mation, and positive impact ASD monitors plantations, mills, refineries, and crushing facilities. “Through ASD, we have more ability to address grievances and correct them,” explained Schubnel “Alone, we wouldn’t have access to all this infor mation Join us!”

ASD membership generates a positive impact and members are trusted brands for customers. At the same time, members ensure long-ter m sustainable supply and improve inter nal quality control and accountability processes.

Since its for mation in 2019, 25 companies have joined ASD including: Beiersdorf, Chanel, Clariant, Clarins, Clorox, Croda, Estée Lauder, Evonik, Gattefossé, Galaxy, GSK, Henkel, Innospec, Johnson & Johnson, L’Occitane, L’Oréal, LVMH, Natura, Nuxe, Orkla, Reckitt, Sasol, Seppic, Solvay, Stearnere Dubois, and Zschimmer & Schwarz

Call for Papers

The Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical perfor mance of their choice Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor

Please send correspondence to: roger mcmullen@fdu.edu

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2022 NYSCC Scholarship and Grant Award Recipients

On December 7th during its Educational Awards Night ceremony, the NYSCC announced the recipients of its expanded scholarships and grants program.

Presented that night were:

The Board Choice Scholarship ($7,500), a new award created to inspire student members to reimagine the future of NYSCC was awarded to:

• Sandy Enriquez, University of Buffalo

Mentee Next Steps Grant, exclusive to NYSCC mentees who need financial support to reach the next milestone in their education and career paths:

• Micaela Reyes, CUNY York College

• Roanne Reyes, Gattefossé

U p s k i l l i n g G r a n t ($5,000) for active members who want to take their credentials or professional development to the next level with special consideration given to unemployed members who need to obtain skills to help them get back to work:

• Dario Gimenez, Grant Industries

• Linda Rivera, Henkel Corporation

Future of Sustainability Scholarship ($5,000) encourages undergraduate and graduate students to start thinking about how the industry can address major sustainability challenges:

• Jacob Sessions, Rutgers University

• Julie Liu, St John's University

• Maria Jolina Lou, Rutgers University

Roumelia Alina Inclusion & Diversity Scholarship ($5,000) awarded to undergraduate or graduate students who exemplify hard work, perseverance, compassion, and collaboration in the advancement of Inclusion and Diversity initiatives:

• Kendra Cutcher, Rutgers University

• Danielle Campbell, The University of Toledo

• Dylan Tan, Rutgers Graduate School of Studies

• Tanashia Pennix, Leuphana University

• Ryann Kneser, The University of Cincinnati

• Cynthia Santos, Rutgers University

• Maria Mo, Rutgers University

• Princess-Ann George-Ezuma, Fairleigh Dickinson University

• Alanna Turco, Rutgers University

• Alicia Blake, Rutgers University

• Melia Rucker, Rutgers University

• Sophia Olson, Manhattan College

• Jada Alcantara, University of Toledo

• Precious Ulel, University of Califor nia

• Mary Atokwu-Isama, Rutgers University

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2022: The Year in 2022: The Year in Review Review

General Education Scholarship ($2,500) is a one-time award for undergraduate and graduate students who wish to pursue a career in cosmetic science:

• Tracy Hervies, University of Toledo

• Rachel Whiteman, Rutgers University

• Leila Sorrells, Columbia University

• Ashley Reid, Fairleigh Dickinson University

• Rachael Hill, University of Toledo

• Bushra Tahhan, Fairleigh Dickinson University

• Anna Gerken, University of Toledo

• Lucciana Heredia, Rutgers University

• Le Anh Thu Nguyen, Rutgers University

• Ava Perkins, University of Toledo G

•

Cosmetic Comics

The Future Cosmetic Chemists Team shows that in addition to putting together a great educational event they can also have fun Shown in the photograph (from left to right), which was taken at John Carola’s 40th birthday party, are: Christian Merkovsky (Princess bride), Alex Brielmaier (Bob Ross), John Carola (Freddy Mercury), Susanna Fer nandes (Madonna), Tania Viana (typical 80’s girl), and Thomas Drweiga (Macho Man)

plant-based solutions for skin, hair, shower, and color cosmetics. go.ingredion.com/beauty /beauty c om e dion. . ingr g o

awarded to organizations promoting enrichment and advancement of cosmetic science:

Fairleigh Dickinson University

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2022 NYSCC Board & Committees

Executive Board

Chair

Giorgio Dell’Acqua Nutrafol

Treasurer-Elect Alex Blakeman Superior Materials

By-Laws Amy Marshall Eckart

Chair-Elect Stacey House Coty LATAM

Secretary Luciana Coutinho Luluble

Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla IFF Health & Biosciences

Advisor Susanna Fer nandes TRI-K

At Home Live Series

Giorgino Macalino Estée Lauder Companies

Cosmetiscope Advertising Raymond B. Clark Ashland Inc.

Future Chemist Workshop

John Carola Katonah Chemical

Special Events

Johanna Gigliotti Deveraux Specialties

Scholarship

Toussaint Jordan Edgewell Personal Care

Tania Viana Grant Industries

Christian Merkovsky Omya/For mulae

Program Chair Cathy Piterski Essential Ingredients

Cosmetiscope Editor Roger L. McMullen Ashland Inc

Executive Committee Board Appointments

Communications Maria Sousa Edgewell Personal Care

House Chair Lexi Piterski June Jacobs

Employment James Grant Edgewell Personal Care

Mentorship Program

Ava Atri L’Oréal USA Mary Fendelander Chanel

Historian Steve Her man Diffusion LLC

Social Media Chair Maria Sousa Edgewell Personal Care

Diversity and Inclusion Desiree Reid Desiree Reid & Co. Alex Bliziotis Mario Badescu

EventBrite Manager Thomas Drwiega Fairleigh Dickinson University

Registration Christina Phillips Gattefossé

Scientific Committee Hani Fares Ashland Inc.

Suppliers’ Day Jane McDer mott E C M A

Future Chemists Workshop Team

Alex Brielmaier Bayport Labs

Susanna Fer nandez Tri-K

Thomas Drweiga FDU

John Carola Katonah Chemical

Hani Fares Ashland Inc

Yun Shao Kobo Products

Amber Evans Morrocanoil

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Scientific Committee

Mike Anthonavage CRL

Ben Blinder Gattefossé USA

Mythili Nori BASF Corporation Catherine Chiou L’Oréal USA

Marc Cor nell Mar-Key Consulting Stacey House Coty LATAM Sue Feng E.T. Brown Giorgio Dell’Acqua Nutrafol

Luciana Coutinho Luluble

Roger L. McMullen Fairleigh Dickinson University

Susanna Fer nandes TRI-K

Social Media Team Team

Giorgino Macalino Estée Lauder

Revathi Nair Symrise AG Jiayi (Joy) Yuan Jarchem Xylia Ajose FDA Lanesa Mahon University of Cincinnati

Samyukta Pingali Nohbo Inc.

Chanel Person

The John Hopkins University

Ashley Garcia Minaris Regenerative Medicine

Shivangi Manivannan Rutgers University Nicole Lund Estée Lauder Mary Uche Atokwu-Isama Rutgers University

Leila Sorrells TRI Princeton

Dejour Waite Peter Thomas Roth

Event Chairs

Sophia Olson Manhattan College

January Event

Howard Epstein EMD Electronics

April Event

Desiree Reid Desiree Reid & Co

Alex Bliziotis

Mario Badescu

June Event

Roger L. McMullen Ashland Inc.

February Event Hani Fares Ashland Inc

Awards Night 2022 Giorgino Macalino Estée Lauder Companies

Golf Outing James Francisco Jeen Inter national Corp.

March Event Giorgio Dell’Acqua Nutrafol

Sensory Boat Trip Johanna Gigliotti Deveraux Specialties

Fishing Trip Hani Fares Ashland Inc.

September Event

Howard Epstein EMD Electronics

Culinary Event Johanna Gigliotti Deveraux Specialties LLC

October Event Ben Blinder Gattefossé Stacey House Coty LATAM November Event Mythili Nori BASF

NYSCC Supports Education Event Giorgio Dell’Acqua Nutrafol