Magazine of Croatian tourism ISSN 1847-1552
Issue 18
June, 2014 Year VI. Not for sale
Vukovar Syrmia County
Issue 18 / June 2014 / Year VI / Varaždin, Croatia Way to Croatia is distributed free of charge, to travel agents and reporters in 47 countries worldwide. Publisher Vall 042 d.o.o. Croatia way@vall042.com www.waytocroatia.hr Maja Šimenc, CEO Editor-in-chief Borislav Šimenc President of Editors Council Željko Trezner Executive Editor Tanja Bunjevac Design & Layout Stage www.stage-design.hr Language Editor & Translator Idi vidi d.o.o. Supported by UHPA Association of Croatian Travel Agencies
AKD d.o.o. Zagreb ISSN 1847-1552 Upisnik HGK o izdavanju i distribuciji tiska: broj 1057
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Welcome to Vukovar-Syrmia County Golden fields of the golden ears Map of the County Županja Our Daily Bread - Harvesting & Threshing in the Past Šokci Festival The Road of the Golden Thread Heritage of Županja Otok Nijemci Let’s go to Syrmia Vinkovci The Orion The Vinkovci Autumn Roman Days in Cibalae The Treasures of Šokci Tradition Vukovar The Eltz Castle Vučedol Culture Museum Vukovar Nocturne Park Forest Adica & Danube Ilok The Old Cellar of Ilok The Ilok Wine Road The Grape Harvest of Ilok Wine Kingdom of Ilok Refined flavours & ravishing scent Bicycle Routes Traminac from Ilok Info
Photos: Tourist Board of the Vukovar-Syrmia County and all tourist boards, Dražen Bota, City Museum Vukovar, Vall042
Wiena Bratislava
Budapest Varaždin
Ljubljana Munich
ZAGREB Osijek Rijeka
Karlovac
VUKOVAR
Sisak
VINKOVCI Slavonski Brod OTOK ŽUPANJA
Gospić
Zadar
Ad r
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Split
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Editor’s Corner In this issue we are presenting you the easternmost part of Croatia. It is an area in the newer Croatian history known by the suffering in the Croatian War of Independence at the beginning of this century, but also as an area which became an exceptionally interesting tourist destination over the last decade. The many localities and events can satisfy even the most demanding visitors, as the exhibition of the newly restored Vukovar museum in Eltz Castle already does. The visitation program can be organized both around contents from history and culture, traditional heritage and production in the village, presentation of folk customs as well as around the pleasure of enjoying gastronomic tastes and top quality wines. Borislav Šimenc, Chief Editor of Magazine Way to Croatia
Dubrovnik
ILOK NIJEMCI
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The Vukovar-Syrmia County – plains surrounded by the rivers Danube and Sava and washed with five more rivers. The cradle of oak forests and vineyards, bread and wine, paprika-flavored salami and brandy, gold coins (ducats) and Šokadija. People, eternal border guards and proud tradition keepers, blended with nature and heritage, have given their best to the soil and received the best from it in return. All the richnes of the nature, soil, forests, rivers, bread have been motherly kept by the warm human hand. The life, once created, has never extinguished here. The easternmost Croatian county where the Slavonian plain meets with Syrmian hills, has been the longest inhabited area in this part of Europe – the town of Vinkovci, and there is also the youngest Croatian town – Otok. This is a wealthy area. Rich in nature, history, culture, tradition, song, dance, people – rich in life!
golden fields of
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the golden ears Photo: CTB_Mario Romulić & Dražen Stojčić
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Antin
Vukovar
Tordinci
Mirkovci
Vinkovci
Sotin
Opatovac Lovas Privlaka
Cerna
Otok Babina Greda
Županja Zagreb - Lipovac autocesta / highway
Bošnjaci
TOURIST BOARD OF THE VUKOVAR-SRIJEM COUNTY
Đeletovci
Kompletinci Nijemci
Ilača
Tovarnik
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Bicycle Route SRIJEM Bicycle Route SRIJEM Bicycle Route DUNAV
Mohovo
Šarengrad
Ilok
Archeological site Vučedol Ilok Wine Road Road of the Golden Thread Museums and monuments
The Vukovar - Srijem County is the easternmost Croatian county. This is the place where the East and the West met, through culture, history and traffic. The county occupies the area of 2448 m2, out of that 150 000 h the richest Croatian ploughland, and 70 h forests. Here you can find the biggest red oak tree forest in this part of Europe. Seven rivers flow through this area – the Danube, Sava, Vuka, Bosut, Biđ, Studva and Spačva. The vast plains and hills of Fruška Gora with famous Ilok vineyards meet in the Vukovar - Srijem County. The Vuka River, which flows through the center of Vukovar, is the natural border of Slavonia and Syrmia (Srijem). There are important river and continental routes that go through this area which cross with international traffic routes from the east to the west along the Danube River, and from the north across the Sava River towards the Adriatic. There they touch and face civilizations of Western Europe and eastern culture circle. North of Vinkovci there is the Vuka River that mouths into the Danube near Vukovar, and to the south towards the Sava there is the Bosut River with its tributaries Berava, Biđ, Studva and Spačva. Being rich in fish these rivers influenced the continuity of living, along with fertile loess soil. Numerous oak forests that sprung from once wetland rich area in the southern part of the county influenced the population density.
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Županja River, soil and woods... these words could be used to begin a story of the Posavina, and city of Županja. Županja is a town on the bank of the river Sava, whose name was first mentioned in the 16th century (as Županje Blato). There are no doors to enter, because no one can close the width of the plain or stop the flow of the river.
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If you are a traveler, you can always feel freedom, as it has always been defended in these parts. Near the villages, next to the woods, people built rural dwellings (called burdelji, salaši…). Those were the dwellings in the nature where people lived and took care of their livestock. We all know that nature is the cure for stress and therefore we invite you to, even briefly, return to those places which have become parts of the past. Leaving Županja, people will carry a picture of the peaceful and friendly town by the river, which has always reminded its inhabitants that the life is - a gram of sorrow, a gram of laughter and Sava is a scale.
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Breakfast on a hay
Our Daily Bread Harvesting & Threshing in the Past Come along! Roll up your sleeves and try your hand in mowing and sheaving wheat, enjoy the mouth-watering Slavonian breakfast on a hay table out in the field, enjoy the fun, singing and dancing to the accompaniement of tambouritzas. Just like they did in the past, when the wide fields turn to gold in July, the farms in Županja start preparing for the great event - the harvest. But this time there is no state of the art machinery. All you hear is the rhythmic sound of the scythe and the rustling of wheat moved by the wind. See you on July 5th!
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Childrens games
Traditional Craftsmen
Šokci Festival All the hard work and dedication that the people of Županja invest into preserving their priceless cultural heritage become evident during this festivity stemming from the wealth of the Slavonian tradition. Sumptuously appointed horse-drawn carriages, which look as if they were taken from a museum, ride across the town with their proud coachmen dressed in most beautiful Slavonian folk costumes. Always attractive to guests regardless of where they come from, the parade is invariably accompanied by appropriate customs - brandy distilling and homemade meat delicacies. Every year, all the colorful diversity is being enriched still more with folklore groups coming from other parts of Croatia and abroad.
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Traditional embroidering with golden thread
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The Road of the Golden Thread The road of the golden thread is a thematic route that brings together all the richness of the Županja region, showing the visitors its natural beauties, cultural heritage, preserved rural traditional values contained in the lifestyle, hospitality, openness and kindness of local inhabitants, gastronomy, production of home-made fruit brandy and liquors, old crafts and local traditions, folklore manifestations and authentic experience of Slavonia. The golden thread is the basis of this project and it connects places like Županja, Štibar, Babina greda, Gradište, Cerna, Bošnjaci, Vrbanja, Drenovci, Šiškovci, Kruševica and whole range of cultural and historic characteristics of life in the plains. The road of the golden thread can be visited the year round on foot, by bike or by car. Visitors can try their hands in the traditional crafts like spinning wool, stripping feathers, weaving on the loom, sawing folk costumes, embroidering with golden thread, lace-making, painting gourds, preparing Slavonian delicacies like kulen and different type of sausages, fruit brandies… and many other things.
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Forest
Feel the beats of the soil From Spačva, the biggest complete autochthonous forest of Slavonian oak tree on the area of 40 thousand ha, through magnificent several centuries old trees in Forest office Gunja in forest area Južno Radiševo, you can see the unbreakable bond between the nature and the man that has lasted for centuries. Slavonian oak tree has marked the life near forests, and even today specialists from all over the world admire its beauty and quality. It is an extremely long-living type of tree; people say it grows for a hundred years, lives a hundred years and then dies for a hundred years. Its crown hides protected animal species like oak longicorns (Cerambyx cerdo), stag beetle (Lecanuc cervus), whitetailed eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla), collared flycatcher (Ficedula albicollis), middle spotted woodpecker (Dendrocopos medius), black stork (Ciconica nigra)… The area of Spačva forest pool is rich in watercourses, among which the most important are Virovi (Whirlpools), protected landscape and heaven for lovers of effusive and intact nature.
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Border Watchtower
Forestry Museum
Domicile Museum Stjepan Gruber
Forestry Museum in Bošnjaci
Of all architectural landmarks, the most interesting in the county is the Border watchtower - now the headquarters of the Regional Museum Stjepan Gruber. It is the only preserved example of military-frontier defense architecture in Croatia. Next to the watchtower is the second museum building, the so-called “Agency” former steamship station, built in the mid-19th century. Today it is home to a permanent ethnological exhibition of the Homeland Museum. The space between the watchtower and the steamboat station is also a beautiful promenade along river Sava.
Forestry Museum with its rich flora and fauna of Spačva forest known for its famous Slavonian oak, showcases tree species in detail and its great place for the education of students and nature lovers. A content-rich and interesting, it is one of the finest museums of its kind in Europe. Long tradition of organized forestry is displayed here - exhibits tell of the history and development of forestry. Tools displayed show how people used to work the wood from the old days to modern times. Part of the museum is a collection of paintings by Josip Babogredac.
INFO: Tourist Board Županja www.tz-zupanja.hr
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Otok Thanks to natural and cultural heritage Otok is a place to visit if you’re in Slavonia. SpaÄ?va forest, flora and fauna, forest watercourse Virovi, hunting and fishing tourism, Suvara, and other tourist attractions made Otok a tourist spot.
INFO: Tourist Board Nijemci turistickazajednicaon@gmail.com
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Suvara, a horse powered mill, dating from the 19th century, is a monument of highest cultural value and the only restored and preserved object of that type in Croatia and South-East Europe. The offer from the mill will be a special attraction for the many admirers of natural healthy food produced from flour from corn milled by rotating grindstones. In the past it was driven by oxen or cows, but most often by horses, and it was used for milling grain: wheat, barley, corn, oats and salt. Skills of the best craftsmen, especially carpenters, was used for building and adjusting Suvara mill, because it’s astonishing due to the
The Boat Race in Nijemci
preciseness and exactness of the wooden mechanism construction which had to be perfectly balanced. The restored Suvara mill is and will remain a meeting point for inquisitive people, research of construction experts, enthusiasts for millstones chained by peace and love for the simple yet sublime centuries of existence of Otok Suvara mills. Tourist offer in Otok is based primarily on natural and cultural resources such as Lože - a protected natural landscape with indigenous species of birds, hunting, fishing, recreation, picnics; pasture Čistine - natural carp hatchery, Slavonian giant oak, Slavonian black-pig breeds, Otočka Kulenijada event, and many more…
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Beautiful is the gilded Syrmia / Enjoying the natural beauties on rivers Bosut and SpaÄ?va
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In a beautiful forest of Spačva the small municipality of Nijemci is located. Lived in the fold of the old oak forest on one side and the Danube river on the other, the life of local folk is quite different from the one lived by those we like to call the “modern” man. Through centuries the exceptional landscape of trees and rivers has shaped their daily routine which to us, coming from the scramble of city life, seems pretty exotic.
Nijemci Let’s go to Syrmia Tourist boat, bird watching, cycling... Thematic tourist road „Let’s go to Syrmia“ passes through the area of Western, Croatian Syrmia and offers contents in villages Nijemci, Tovarnik and Lovas. The ship St. Catherine on the rivers Bosut and Spačva creates possibilities of river adventure, bird and animal watching, along with flora, and can be combined with horse tracks and walkways and arranged observation post placed in the heart of Syrmian fields. There is a possibility of renting a bike or boat. You can refresh yourself with homemade food and drinks in authentic environment and atmosphere. Major manifestations are: Divan je kićeni Srijem, held in May and June, with presentations of tradition and wealth of Syrmia and Fruit brandies and liquors festival.
Divan je kićeni Srijem (Beautiful is the gilded Syrmia) This event cherishes the traditional culture, folklore heritage and identity of the Western Syrmia - from children folklore groups, evening of tambura music and folks fair, to good local food and drink. It’s held every year in May and June.
INFO: Tourist Board Nijemci turistickazajednicaon@gmail.com
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Peace & tranquility The peaceful nature of Slavonia is a perfect counterbalance to the hectic pace of modern life. Danube waters and quiet of the forest take away everyday stress and restore inner resources of energy and optimism.
Photo: CTB_Mario Romulić & Dražen Stojčić
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Vinkovci
Vinkovci belongs to the northern-Croatian group of cities, which is characterized by very remarkable architectural features. The central square with its prominent features of Baroque urbanism and flange sections which enclose it, represents an area of high cultural and historical, urbanistic, architectonic, stylistic and aesthetic value of Vinkovci. The City of Vinkovci is located in the furthermost northeast of Croatia, between rivers Danube and Sava, situated along the river Bosut. Owing to its favorable position, Vinkovci was an area upon which the cultures used to inherit one another from early Stone Age to modern times. Not the same sites were always inhabited, but looking at the current layout of the City, Vinkovci has been continually inhabited for over 8,000 years. Most of the prehistoric settlements were situated on that high left bank, and the largest and longest lasting settlement was formed on the right confluence of the Ervenica brook into Bosut, on “Tell Tržnica”. Apart from the valuables which are kept at Vinkovci City Museum, as well as many objects which likely still lie hidden beneath the City streets, here in Vinkovci you can also see valuable sacral monuments. The oldest of them is the pre-Romanesque church of Sv. Ilija (St. Elias) at Meraja (Turkish: meraja - shady place for cattle). The foundations which are still visible today bear witness to that. New church has been built in year 1777. There are three bells from the old church, and many works of baroque art to be seen.
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Photo: Darko Puharić The Orion / The Sopot Archeology Park
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Vinkovci City Museum was established on 7 November 1946. and base fundus was accounted purchase of the Mate Medvedović collection. Later, archaeological collection of Matthias Klein and donated numismatic collection of Benko Horvat were added. The first exhibition was held in 1948, showing mainly archaeological material. Today, Museum is situated in a great representative one-story building where it moved in 1950. It has Archeological, Ethnological, Historical, Science and Forestry Departments and Gallery, restoration workshops and professional library. Among the most significant items in Museum is the Orion - the oldest Indo-European calendar discovered in Vinkovci.
The Orion A distinguished place among the numerous important details regarding the City history surely belongs to the oldest Indo-European calendar, the Orion. The archeologists discovered this vessel on March 21st, 1978 at the site of the present-day Hotel Slavonija. Twenty years later, it was determined that the engraved ornaments represent the constellations which dominate the night sky above Vinkovci. According to professor Aleksandar Durman, who led the excavation project at that time, the present-day representation of the Orion vessel in the pedestrian zone in the heart of Vinkovci has a symbolic meaning: “Here in the heart of Vinkovci, Europe’s oldest city, stand together the symbols of space, time and civilization. The engraved ornament on the vessel which was unearthed from the Vučedol layer in Vinkovci and had been made before the year 2600 B.C., represents the most complete Indo-European calendar which is based on astral symbolism with pertinent constellations for all four season. Although it was created in the same time period as the Sumerian and Egyptian calendars, it does not represent their replica, since it is based on the 45th parallel. The climate conditions which correspond to that latitude have four seasons as a consequence.” Sopot Archeology Park Archeology Park Sopot is connected to the City centre through a pedestrian-bicycle path which is three kilometres long. The park is situated next to the Sopot holiday resort, and contains six Sopot huts which used to be built in swamps, near brooks, or as in this case, on the bank of river Bosut. The huts were reconstructed according to the finds from that site, and were named Sopot after the culture to which they had belonged, the culture which has borne that name since 1971, thanks to the archeologist professor Dimitrijevič. INFO: Tourist board Vinkovci www.tz-vinkovci.hr Vinkovci City Museum www.muzejvk.hr
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“Šokica” at Vinkovci Autums
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Dancing on the streets
Roman days in May
Vinkovačke jeseni
(Vinkovci Autumn)
The people of Vinkovci often say: “Once you’ve been to the Vinkovci Autumns, you will always return!” Indeed, it is hard to resist the charms you are immersed in during those ten autumn days. The whole town and its visitors live for the songs and dancing. Vinkovačke jeseni is the greatest folklore event in this part of Europe. It represents the popular-scholarly gathering of original national culture and stimulates the preservation of cultural heritage through song and the playing of instruments, and contributes greatly towards preventing many customs from falling into oblivion. Of course, there is a feast for all your senses; good rakija (plum brandy) and great food add to the appeal of this event. 19 - 21 September 2014 INFO: www.vk-jeseni.com
Roman Days in Cibalae Visit to Vinkovci in May offers the opportunity to experience life of the Roman population in the city that once was called Colonia Aurelia Cibalae. During Roman Days, visitors can watch or participate in Roman games, taste Roman food, see and hear the lectures on Roman law and the sale of slaves, visit exhibitions and workshops.
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The Treasures
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of Ĺ okci
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The area of modern-day Vinkovci has been inhabited for more than eight thousand years. Many people and civilizations exchanged here, leaving their traces behind which the archeologists uncover and in which the citizens of Vinkovci can take pride. Some of the people who passed through these lands, either through migrations or wars, influenced the life and the customs of the indigenous inhabitants - the Šokci. Nowadays, however, the Šokci way of life is passing, and we can learn more about it by reading the books of the local writers and from the lovers of these lands, as well as by visiting the Museum or by having a talk with some newly-married woman who still lives such a life. In order to prevent the customs from being completely forgotten, many individuals, associations and institutions organize various workshops, gatherings, seminars, fairs and, of course, festivals. Within the closer city environs it is possible to visit rustic houses where you’ll be greeted by kind hosts who will take you through the treasures of their ancestors. Lodgings with comfortable feather-beds, rich gastronomical menu and a real rustic environment guarantee a good vacation. To this end, many associations based in the city area work to keep alive the customs of Šokadija, which are: needleworks (embroidery, golden embroidery, šlinganje, toledo, and the like), weaving, pottery, bottle staining, gourd painting, making national garments, as well as the preservation of the authentic dance and song, customs such as picking feathers, distilling rakija and many more). Slavonija has always been synonymous for the richness of all senses, and even today here in Vinkovci one can taste many dishes native to these lands, such as kulen, pork crackling, head cheese, crescent rolls, čobanac, fish paprikash, goose paprikash, bread with lard spread and many more, which is nicely followed up by a drink of home-made rakija (plum brandy)! How much the preservation of the kulen-producing tradition is important for the citizens of Vinkovci, is shown by the fact that this very skill has been included in the Republic of Croatia Protected Immaterial Cultural Goods List. People o this County are not only able to recognize, but also produce a good drink, and this fact is confirmed by the National Fruit Rakija and Liqueur Exhibition, which the Tourist Board of Vukovar-Syrmia County traditionally organizes in Vinkovci for the Vinkovačke jeseni event.
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Acin salaš
Acin salaš In the vast expanse of Slavonia, in TORDINCI, there is a true Šokci estate; place where, once you enter its gates, everything smells of tradition – Acin salaš. It contains facilities built on traditional values with the characteristics of such dwellings from the past called salaš: barns, pigsties, a horse barn, bread-oven, smokehouse... All guestrooms are decorated in traditional Šokci atmosphere. Acin salaš offers a total of 55 beds in single, double and triple rooms and two suites. Food is here prepared in the old, traditional way and is a real gastronomic delight. Handful of Slavonic customs completes the experience of living in true Slavonian household. Within salaš food is served in the restaurant hall (70 people capacity) and on the terrace (250 people).
INFO: Tourist Board Vukovar-Syrmia County www.visitvukovar-srijem.com
Guests can enjoy horsebackriding, or ride in a horse-drawn carriage or wagon, play tennis, volleyball, football and bowling. INFO: acin.salas@gmail.com, www.acinsalas.com phone: +385(0)32 580-845
Antin stan Since 1996, Antin stan in IVANKOVO is a country estate offering a true experience of rural tourism in Slavonija. In idyllic countryside, every guest will enjoy fine Slavonian cuisine and will have the opportunity to taste firstclass brandies made of plume and pear awarded with numerous national and international awards. INFO: antin.stan@gmail.com phone: +385(0)32 381-444
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Vukovar Home of the Vučedol Dove Vukovar - centuries old Croatian town on the banks of the Danube River has always been the crossroads and the meeting point of different cultures. Archeological localities bear witness to the life in the Vukovar area and the Vučedol culture five millennia ago.
Vučedol dove is the most famous ceramic vessel from archaeological sites at Vučedol, made between the 2800. and 2400. b.C., and was found 1938. on the site of Gradac. It is richly decorated with inlay, and it was used as a censer.
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Baroque center
City Museum in the Eltz Castle
Photo: Vanja Vidaković
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The old center of Vukovar is characterized by its houses with arches built in a style typical of the provincial baroque style of Maria Theresa period. The most outstanding among them are buildings housing the Stage-coach post office, the Town Magistrate, the Kirchbaum-Schwartz central chemist, the Srijem County palace, the Grand Hotel, the Croatian Hall on the banks of Danube, the birth-house of Lavoslav Ružićka – the first Croatian Nobel prize winner (in 1939 he received the Nobel prize for chemistry).
The Eltz Castle The City Museum Vukovar was founded in 1946 and the first permanent exhibition was opened in 1948 owing to the first donation of its founder, the citizen of Vukovar dr. Antun Bauer. During the Croatian War of Independence in 1991 the complex of the Eltz Castle suffered heavy devastation and continued its activities as the Museum in exile till returning to the devastated Eltz Castle, in which the reconstruction process began in 2005. The construction works on the Eltz Castle complex were finished in November 2011. The first phase of the permanent exhibition on the ground floor of Eltz Castle with ceremonial halls and ambient spaces was opened in the Night of museums on January 25th 2013. Already next year, on January 23rd 2014, the permanent exhibition of the City Museum Vukovar was opened, which is covering a time span of 8000 years with its collection. Ceremonial halls are lining up in the second part of the ground floor: Marble hall, Baroque hall, Hall of mirrors, Baroque parlour, Hunter’s parlour with restored stuccoes, parquet floor, carpentry, tile stoves and works of art which are partly positioned at their original positions in the manor, also showing in part the lifestyle of Vukovar nobility.
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Whereas once upon a time the steamboats sailing upstream linked the town to the cities of Budapest and Vienna, and going downstream reached Romania, today the tourist boats follow the same routes. Danube river was, and always will be Vukovar’s link with the world.
Photo: Vanja Vidaković
The Eltz Castle on Danube
The permanent exhibition on the first floor and in the manor’s attics is displaying the range of civilizations and the course of life on the loess reef and the Danube from prehistory ‘till present day. It is divided in six thematic units. Archaeological history of Vukovar area shown throughout ten rooms, Historical development of Vukovar in seven rooms. The 20th presented through newsprints documenting all important events and prominent citizens of Vukovar in that period, among which is also the Nobel Prize winner Lavoslav Ružička.
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There are also valuable Ethnographic images of Vukovar area, and thematic units Barbarian destruction of the city during the Croatian War of Independence, Strength of roots / Life in exile and Vukovar today. Vukovar is a city of history, culture and reminiscence, but also the city of courage and future; city that grows on the foundation of its strong spirit and the spirit of its citizens.
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Photo: Walkway along Vuka _Vanja Vidaković
Costumed tourist guides on the Danube bank / Walkway along Vuka
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Photo: Park Forest Adica_Vanja Vidaković
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Park Forest Adica Biological Adica is made of a hundred-years-old mixed forest bordered with wetland of nearby river Vuka. Central part is arranged as a picnic site with children’s playground and jogging track, and there is also Eco-Ethno center Adica, with catering and accommodation capacities and Center for Improvement of knowledge in rural tourism.
Walkway along Danube and Vuka The footpath along the Danube in Vukovar is the closest to the beautiful Danube. If you want to get to know the Danube by sight, smell and feel, this is the greatest place to do it. In the center of the town, next to the Dunav Hotel and the port for tourist boats, the promenade also leads to the spot where the Vuka river flows into the Danube. By all means take a stroll along romantic Vuka Walkway. INFO: Tourist board Vukovar www.turizamvukovar.hr
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Memorial Cemetery
Vukovar Nocturne Vukovar Nocturne is a faithful reflection of what was experienced. It is a story of love and courage, strength and pain, human dignity and victory of life. The story of a tragedy of a nation, victims, heroes, defiance and pride was passed on to Vukovar nocturne which joins all places in town that bear the remembrance of the Homeland war. The place of remembrance – the Vukovar hospital 1991 is a faithful reconstruction of life of a few hundred wounded, Dr. Bosanac and hospital staff during several months long occupation of the town. Memorial Center Ovčara, hangar where the victims, the wounded and medical staff spent last hours of their lives was open as a Memorial Center in 2006. In mass grave at Ovčara, the sacred place in Croatia, 261 persons lost their lives. From Ovčara towards Vukovar you arrive to Memorial Cemetery of Homeland War Victims, the
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biggest mass grave in Europe after the Second World War. The youngest victim was only six months old. With its 938 white crosses that spread indefinitely, it is considered one of the most beautiful graveyards in Croatia. An impressive cross was erected at the mouth of Vuka into Danube. As a crown to all these events a Center of the Homeland War was opened in Vukovar barracks. A Memorial Center in the form of tightly pressed fist, as a symbol of the strength that defended this town was erected in the honor of Croatian defenders. The town went through its ordeal, it has its nocturne, but also Danube and Vuka, Adica, sights, famous citizens, VuÄ?edol and the VuÄ?edol dove, as a synonym of peace and life continuity. Full of impressions and feelings you are surely going to return to this town, because people from Vukovar say that Danube smells here as nowhere else in the world.
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Vučedol CULTURE MUSEUM new in 2015
The new and exceptional tourist attraction in the Vukovar area – Vučedol Culture Museum, is planned to welcome its first visitors at the beginning of 2015. In addition to the specificity and uniqueness which the Museum is drawing from its contents, the attractiveness of the Museum is guaranteed by its location and architectural design. Namely, the Museum is positioned on one side almost at the very Danube riverbank and on the other side, on four flours, in the hill, while its flat green roof is a promenade on which you are arriving to the archaeological locality. As for the content, the permanent exhibition will be displayed in 19 rooms on almost 1200 square meters. In addition to using state of the art technologies, multimedia and interactive contents, the way of life on Vučedol culture localities, spreading through 12 European countries, will be displayed.
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Church of St. Capistrano / The Museum
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ILOK Small medieval town will excite you with numerous wine cellars within the walls of the town and endless vinegrowing hills that gave this area a wine known world over – Traminac of Ilok. The slopes of Syrmian vineyards that fall towards Danube create the most beautiful landscape scenery, which combined with rich gastro offer call for a break and relaxation. The medieval town of Ilok is a cultural and historical landmarked complex preserved by the national government. This small space makes it possible to travel back to the past and stroll through the centuries. Imagine a massive, lofty and elongated fortress, a prince and royal court, a church belfry rising high, a church and monastery with a tower, scattered Islamic buildings of the turbe and hamam, a lush park and public gardens, deeply buried old wine cellars, a belvedere with an unforgettable view of the broad Danube and the plains of Bačka – all of this can be seen and experienced in the medieval town of Ilok, on a small hill surrounded by the Danube and by vineyards. Church of St. Capistrano The Franciscans were first mentioned in Ilok in the 14th century, when the Duke of Ugrin erected a church here. In honour of Saint John of Capistrano, nowadays, it is visited by pilgrims and other visitors who find the spiritual strength and faith which emanate from the entire church and friary. In the past, while Capistrano was on his deathbed, and numerous people of rank and ordinary folk came to pay reverence to him, the first miraculous healings occurred that continued at his grave after his death. There is a written testimony about those events entitled held by the National Library in Paris, and there are a couple of original copies in Rome and the Vatican. The copies of his personal manuscripts are kept in the library of the Ilok friary. If you want to experience Ilok from another perspective, visit the tower within the friary and enjoy a wonderful view of the surroundings.
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Photo: IloÄ?ki podrumi
Old Cellar of Ilok
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The Odescalchi Castle The Odescalchi Castle is the central building situated in the medieval town of Ilok. Since 2010 renovated Museum of Ilok (founded in 1952) is located here, with a new permanent exhibition divided into several themes: numerous archeological finds, cultural, historic and social development Ilok areas, wars in the 20th century, art gallery and memorial gallery of Iloks distinguished people, and the ethnographic department. It is an impressive building built on the foundations of the castle of King Nikola Iločki from the 15th century. Nikola’s medieval castle with the entire Ilok estate, which at the time occupied the greater part of Srijem, were given by Emperor Leopold to Pope Innocent XI Odescalchi and his family as a reward for their help in liberating Ilok from the Turks. The Pope’s nephews, aristocrats from Italy, expanded the castle and changed its style. The castle was rebuilt in the BaroqueClassicist style and they developed at the time very modern wine cellars beneath the castle and gave impetus to the growth of viticulture and wine production.
The Old Cellar of Ilok Naturally, every visit has to include the attractive Old Cellar of Ilok. This Cellar, where top class winemaking tradition began in the 17th century with the Odescalchi family, is famous for its Traminac of highest quality, the royal wine served at the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. The Old Cellar Restaurant is located in the old cellar itself, it is appointed in the traditional style of Srijem and serves a menu that includes indigenious and delicious local dishes knowingly combined with the best wines of Ilok. The Old Cellar has an excellent winetasting room for 40 people and the restaurant with terrace for 150 people. Next to the restaurant The Old Cellar offers accommodation for 30 people.
Vinko’s Feast The celebration of Vinko’s Feast in the winegrowing hills of Ilok and Srijem is an old custom that takes place every year on 22 January. It includes a folk and religious ceremony of vineyard blessing, and merrymaking to the sound of the tamburitza players and enjoying fried sausages, bacon and wine in the vineyards and wine cellars of the winegrowers. To come to Ilok on Vinko’s Feast is the right move, as you can expect good wine, homemade food and songs throughout the vineyards on the hills as well as in the wine cellars in the town. The central festivity takes place in the facilities of Iločki podrumi in Principovac and Vukovo.
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The Ilok Wine Road For more than two millennia, Ilok and wine have been inseparable. The winegrowing hills of Ilok are a gift from God, and the wines in Ilok are also divine – of superior quality, bouquet and taste. Between the extraordinary soil and climate conditions and the wine stands a man: the wine-grower and worker, the Syrmian, who “serves� his vineyard all the year round so that later in his cellar he can cultivate a product which he will offer to his visitors hospitably. It is interesting that the wine cellars in Ilok are situated in the town. There is a winery/wine cellar in almost every street. The vineyards, on the other hand, are located on all the surrounding hills. This combination has created a special wine route which can be followed very simply. Naturally, one can also go as far as the vineyards and belvederes that can be found everywhere around the town. The winegrowers and wine-cellar owners have opened their doors to guests and offer them home-made snacks of cold meats and other delicacies, as well as anything else a visitor might desire and the host prepare. If you want to enjoy the hospitable family-like atmosphere and a glass of good wine, all you have to do is choose among some 12 winegrowers and announce your visit. Naturally, every visit has to include the attractive Old Cellars of Ilok situated in the Castle.
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The Grape Harvest of Ilok
These days, the grape harvest of Ilok has grown into an important event of ethnographic, wine-making and tourist character which lasts several days and has been attracting an increasing number of guests and visitors of different programs. The main part of the program takes place at weekends, with cultural and entertainment events taking place during the day and in the evening. The programs, which include about 400 participants, are attended by about 8,000 visitors.
Photo: CTB_Ivo Pervan
The grape harvest of Ilok, a cultural, entertainment and tourist event, has been taking place traditionally since 1962. It was born out of an old custom originating from the area of Syrmia and Slavonia, where people gathered at the beginning of the wine harvest for the purpose of guarding the vineyards, celebrating a good year and harvest, and socializing. This was especially important for the young people who did not have many opportunities to socialize freely in the town or in the vineyards.
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Traminac Grape
Visit the Wine Kingdom of Ilok The grape varieties you can taste and buy in Ilok are: Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Rein Riesling, Silvanac and Traminac of the white wine varieties, and Pinot Noir, Merlot, Frankovka and Cabernet Sauvignon of the red wine varieties. Ilok is especially famous for its traminac and silvanac, which were served at the English Court at the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. A visit to the wine kingdom of Ilok is best finished off by a meat or fish meal in one of the local restaurants or a golf exercise in vineyards. If you have more time to relax, let yourself be entertained by the sound and songs of the tamburitza players (a string instrument). Contact the location you want, state your wishes and arrange a visit, and the winegrowers, members of the association Ilocka vinska cesta (Ilok Wine Road) will do their best to fulfil your wishes.
INFO: Tourist board Ilok www.turizamilok.hr
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Champagne bar in belvedere
Nested on the hill, surrounded by the vineyards of Ilok, the tourist resort Principovac (4*) is 1.5 km away from the center of Ilok. It encompasses the reconstructed country house of count Odeschalchi with a belvedere, two new accommodation objects with six apartments and one Presidential suite, Ă la carte restaurant, Champagne bar in the belvedere on top of the castle, a tennis court, volleyball and badminton courts. Ideal for a quiet and active holiday, walking, in-line skating or bicycling along paved roads through vineyards. As addition to the aforementioned activities, there is also an indoor golf practice course, 3-field course and golf school. And if you just want to relax and have a picnic with somebody you hold dear, your family or friends, there is a choice of small wooden cottages/houses scattered through the vineyard. More info at www.ilocki-podrumi.hr.
Photo: IloÄ?ki podrumi
Country estate Principovac
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Photo: Fish Stew_DraĹžen Bota
Refined flavours &ravishing scent Here in Srijem (Syrmia) you are at the right place to get acquainted with the authentic flavours of Slavonian villages, flavours from the traditional cuisine of Syrmian farmers, one of the highest in calories, exceptionally abundant but at the same time one of the very best Croatian cuisines. Dishes prepared just like in the old days amaze with their refined flavours and intoxicate with their ravishing scent spreading far beyond the kitchen‌.
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Here the abundance and full body of unsuppressed authentic flavours are revealed. The charm of the food lies in the basic simplicity which, in the very preparation, safeguards the flavour and superior values of homemade groceries grown by hardworking farmer hands in village farmyards, acres and fields exposed to the sun, or taken from centuries-old Slavonian oak forests, Danube, Sava and numerous rivers and streams. Regardless whether you are enjoying kulen sausage, bacon, čvarci (pork scratching), švargli (similar to haggis), čobanac (shepherd stew) or fiš (fish stew) which are still boiling in a copper kettle, carp on a fork still transferring the heat and scent of beech and hornbeam embers, a perfect pork steak or homemade noodles with poppy, walnuts or cheese at the end of dining. Because here the pleasure of dining gets its full meaning and it is contained in every single bite. Nevertheless, is should be emphasized that the unrivalled top position on Syrmian menus is occupied by the best quality product, the gastronomic trademark of Slavonia, kulen or kulenova seka – a spicy air-dried sausage from best pork meat and a combination of homemade red cayenne pepper and sweet red pepper. That’s the beginning of everything…. Yet, the most interesting dishes that should be tasted and enjoyed are by all means: čobanac (shepherd stew), goose stew, homemade chicken soup with porridge, fish stew, carp a la Slavonian (backed with potatoes and cream), game a la šokački, or hunter’s stew with plum dumplings. And, of course, the ever-present pork. Prepared in any way whatsoever.
Photo: CNB_Kulen_Damir Fabijanić
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Bicycle Routes Bicycle routes in Vukovar-Srijem County will take you through main towns in the County: Vukovar, Vinkovci, Županja, Ilok and Otok, through fertile vineyards of the Ilok region, forest of Spačva and picturesque villages sprinkled with interesting medieval monuments (map at pg.6).
The Syrmia Bicycle Route Bicycle route Syrmia connects the southern area of VukovarSrijem County with the northeast part, and is a part of the existent international Danube bicycle route, which is a part of the route Eurovelo 6. If you travel with the Danube route you can make a tour across the whole County on the Sava route and return to the international Danube route. The Sava route makes a circle around this area and you can always return to the starting point. The starting point of this route is at the central city lamp in Vinkovci, across Rokovci, Andrijaševci, Cerna and Gradište to
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Gunja, Vrbanja and Drenovci all the way to Otok. In Otok you can decide between two options. The first is the ride from Privlaka to Vinkovci and then through Nuštar and Bogdanovci to Vukovar where you connect to the Danube bicycle route and the second option is from Komletinci to Nijemci, then to Tovarnik and again back to the Danube route to Ilok. The Syrmia route will enable you to enjoy the area you got through, through inhabited places, forests, fields and vineyards. You can also visit many tourist attractions stated on the map. The route is not very demanding but it gives you a lot of experience.
The Danube Bicycle Route The bicycle route Danube is a part of the international Danube bicycle route through Croatia. It connects towns Vukovar and Ilok. The route is very dynamic and leads through the slopes of Fruška gora, vineyards and picturesque villages that are full of monuments and churches, what makes them worth a stop.
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Photo: IloÄ?ki podrumi
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Traminac from Ilok The uninterrupted tradition of amazing 1800 years of wine growing in Ilok goes back to the time of the old Rome. The Roman emperor Probus introduced new quality sorts to this region in the 3rd century, and even the Turks, despite their religious ban for alcohol consummation, have traded in Ilok wine. The patrician family Odescalchi offered first bottled wines from their wine cellar in Europe in the 17th century, and they were also well-known at the English Court. The fact that Ilok Traminac was drunk sixty years ago at the crowning of the Queen Elisabeth II shows how much the British appreciate the wine of this region. Many gold medals for quality Ilok Traminac has won in recent years in most respected wine assessments in London, Paris, Verona, Madrid, Budapest, Brussels, Mundus Vini in Germany, and outside Europe in assessments in California, Israel, Canada prove the quality of this sort.
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Accomodation VUKOVAR Hotel Lav**** J. J. Strossmayera 17, 32000 Vukovar Phone: + 385 (0)32 445 100 info@hotel-lav.hr www.hotel-lav.hr Vila Vanda Dalmatinska 5, 32000 Vukovar Phone: + 385 (0)32 414 410 Gsm: + 385 (0)98 896 507 info@konoba-megaron.hr www.konoba-megaron.hr VINKOVCI Hotel Admiral*** Bana Jelačića 6, 32100 Vinkovci Phone: + 385 (0)32332 221 hotel.admiral@vu.t-com.hr www.hotel-admiral.hr
Hotel Dunav in Ilok
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Hotel Cibalia*** A. Starčevića 51, 32100 Vinkovci Phone: + 385 (0)32 339 222 www.hotel-cibalia.com Hotel GEM*** Kralja Zvonimira 120, 32100 Vinkovci Phone: + 385 (0)32 367 911 info@hotel-gem.eu www.hotel-gem.eu Hotel Kunjevci *** Kunjevci bb, 32100 Vinkovci Phone: + 385 (0)32 352 999 hotel@hotel-kunjevci.hr www.hotel-kunjevci.hr Hotel Villa Lenije **** Genscherova 3, 32100 Vinkovci Phone: + 385 (0)32 340 140 info@hotelvillalenije.com www.hotelvillalenije.com ILOK Hotel Dunav*** Julija Benešića 62, 32236 Ilok Phone: + 385 (0)32 596 500 hoteldunavilok@hoteldunavilok.com www.hoteldunavilok.com Depadansa Stari podrum*** Šetalište M. Barbarića 4, 32236 Ilok Phone: + 385 (0)32 598 088 staripodrum@ilocki-podrumi.hr www.ilocki-podrumi.hr TN Principovac**** Phone: + 385 (0)32 593 114 staripodrum@ilocki-podrumi.hr www.ilocki-podrumi.hr
Pansion Comfort Massarini Radićeva 4, 32236 Ilok Phone: + 385 (0)32 590 050 jaroslav.masarini@vu.t-com.hr Villa Iva Ilok**** Stjepana Radića 23, 32236 Ilok Phone: + 385 (0)32 591 011 villa.iva.ilok@gmail.com www.villa-iva-ilok.com Old Town Hostel Cinema J. Benešića 42, 32236 Ilok Phone: +385 (0)32 591 159 info@cinema.com.hr www.cinema.com.hr ŽUPANJA Alternativa d.o.o. Džinić Phone: + 385 (0)32 840471, (0)99 312 3312 Snašini kućari, Gradište, Županja Phone: +385(0)32 841 229, (0)98 9102 569 Country housholds Fruk, Vrbanja Phone: +385 (0)32 864 985, +385 (0)98 217 563 fruk@vk.t-com.hr Agroturizam Matkova pecara (Matko’s distillery), Bošnjaci Phone: +385 (0)98 295 548, darko.juzbasic@optinet.hr www.smjestaj-juzbasic.hr NIJEMCI Hotel Spačva *** Bajakovo bb, highway Zagreb - Lipovac Phone: + 385 (0)32032 341 341 info@hotelspacva.com www.hotelspacva.com
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Travel agencies
VUKOVAR Danubiumtours - DMC Phone: + 385 (0)32 445 455 www.danubiumtours.hr Vuka Phone: + 385 (0)32 442 474 pavuka@vu.t-com.hr Compakt Phone: + 385 (0)32 445 561 www.agencija-compakt.hr
Streets of Vukovar
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VINKOVCI Dika Phone: + 385 (0)32 445 558 www.dika-tours.hr Mare Panonium tours Phone: + 385 (0)32 333 644 www.mare-panonium-tours.hr Polet Phone: + 385 (0)32 308 938 www.polet.hr Panturist Vinkovci Phone: + 385 (0)32 331 257 marija.bijelic@panturist.hr Meridijan tours Phone: + 385 (0)32 360 268 meridijan.tours@gmail.com
TOURIST GUIDES
Danubiumtours - DMC Phone: + 385 (0)32 445 455 www.danubiumtours.hr Tourist guides of Vukovar Phone: + 385 (0)32 413 613 gsm: + 385 (0)95 198 2306 gsm: + 385 (0)99 216 5437 www.utv-vukovar.hr.hr Tourist guides of County Phone: + 385 (0)32 441 836 www.dtvvsz.hr Turizam Gsm: + 385 (0)98 346 498 igor.vlasic@gmail.com
ŽUPANJA TOURIST BOATS Polet Županja Phone: + 385 (0)32 831 889 agencija-zupanja@polet.hr www.polet.hr
Danubius, Ilok Hotel Dunav Phone: + 385 (0)32 596 500 wwwhoteldunavilok.com Sv. Katarina, Nijemci Phone: + 385 (0)32280 376
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Events JANUARY Ilok
Vinko’s Feast
22 January www.turizamilok.hr
FEBRUARY Županja Stari Mikanovci
Šokci Festival www.tz-zupanja.hr Youth and Beauty of Slavonia
MARCH Vinkovci
DORF Documentary Rock Film Festival
MAY Vinkovci Roman Days in Cibalae www.tz-vinkovci.hr Vinkovci Ethno Weekend in Ethno City all cities in county: Actor Festival
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TOURIST BOARD OF VUKOVAR-SYRMIA COUNTY www.visitvukovar-srijem.com
JUNE Nijemci
Beautiful is the gilded Syrmia www.tznijemci.hr
JULY Županja
Our Daily Bread Harvesting & Threshing in the Past www.tz-zupanja.hr
AUGUST Vukovar
Vukovar Film Festival 18 - 24, August 2014 www.vukovarfilmfestival.hr
SEPTEMBER Vinkovci
Vinkovci Autumn 19 - 21, September 2014 www.vk-jeseni.com
Ilok
Ilok Grape Harvest 6 - 7, September 2014 www.turizamilok.hr
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WELCOME ABOARD WATERBUS ON DANUBE! DMC agency Danubiumtours from Vukovar announced a new tourism project - a new tourism infrastructure, which will set sail on the beautiful blue Danube in October this year! This project is actually a modernly equipped tourist river boat - a floating multimedia center waterbus that conects Vukovar and VuÄ?edol. It will be telling the story of the Danube River from the mouth to the source to the passengers, via special visual effects to show the life of the inhabitants of the river. It’s possible to arange shorter routes, day trips, cultural events, business meetings... INFO: DMC Danubiumtours www.danubiumtours.hr
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INFO TOURIST BOARD OF VUKOVAR-SYRMIA COUNTY www.visitvukovar-srijem.com Phone: +385 32 338 425 Tourist Board Vukovar www.turiziamvukovar.hr Phone: +385 32 338 425 Tourist Board Vinkovci www.tz-vinkovci.hr Phone: +385 32 334 653 Tourist Board Ilok www.turizamilok.hr Phone: +385 32 590 020 Tourist Board Županja www.tz-zupanja.hr Phone: +385 32 832 711 Tourist Board Nijemci turističkazajednicaon@gmail.com Phone: +385 32 280 376
Vučedol
Vučedol CULTURE MUSEUM new in 2015 The new and exceptional tourist attraction in the Vukovar area – Vučedol Culture Museum, is planned to welcome its first visitors at the beginning of 2015. In addition to the specificity and uniqueness which the Museum is drawing from its contents, the attractiveness of the Museum is guaranteed by its location and architectural design. Namely, the Museum is positioned on one side almost at the very Danube riverbank and on the other side, on four flours, in the hill, while its flat green roof is a promenade on which you are arriving to the archaeological locality. As for the content, the permanent exhibition will be displayed in 19 rooms on almost 1200 square meters. In addition to using state of the art technologies, multimedia and interactive contents, the way of life on Vučedol culture localities, spreading through 12 European countries, will be displayed.