Oh My Malta Magazine November 2022

Page 1

ISSUE 24 • NOVEMBER 2022

NOVEMBER 2022

Malta makes for a great destination throughout the year. The temperature continues to decrease during November but remains comparatively warmer to most of Europe, making it explorable during this time of the year. While it's true that there will be some wet and chilly days, you will encounter plenty of bright and sunny ones during this time.

Although many think of Malta as a summer paradise, November is an ideal time to discover its highlights. The Maltese Islands are buzzing with cultural festivities in the run up to Christmas; it’s a great time to explore museums, historical sites and events and entertainment, as well as different restaurants and cafés where one can get to savour traditional culinary delights. Don't miss out on this month's 'bones of the dead'; almond cookies shaped like bones that are traditionally eaten on 2 November, in celebration of 'All Souls Day'. Because affter all, food is one of the best parts about celebrating, well... anything.

Be it a sightseeing tour of the capital city, a trip to the fishing village of Marsaxlokk, and a hiking trip to the sister island of Gozo, there are lots of activities to enjoy in Malta in November.

For more of our recommendations, browse through the following pages or stay up to date on upcoming entertainment by visiting our website www. ohmymalta.com.mt

Triton Fountain, Valletta

Malta is at an advanced stage of tourism recovery following the disastrous consequences of COVID-19 and is expected to reach almost 2.2 million tourists during 2022, a recovery of 80% of the record performance recorded in 2019.

Malta’s tourism offer is different and superior in potential, range and offer to that offered by most of our Mediterranean mass tourism competitors especially those operating exclusively in the summer-sun segment.

As a result, Malta presents an alternative offer featuring a varied product mix that appeals to different age groups from different nationalities during all twelve months of the year. 2019 research indicates that only 15% of Malta and Gozo’s tourists visit merely for sun and sea, with an astounding 50% declaring that they visited for a mix of culture and climate, 11% for culture only, 5%

for scuba diving, 7% for business and conferences while others visited for a mix of weddings, visiting friends and relatives, sports activities and English language learning.

This is why Malta has one of the least seasonal tourism performances in Europe and the Mediterranean; Our country does not close down for the winter due to improved and extended seasonal performances which have only been possible as a result of the sustained and consistent development and growth of a variety of niches active all year round.

As Malta strives to rethink and revitalise its tourism, sustainability and inclusion will be at the heart of a more resilient and competitive travel and tourism sector.

The key to understanding future investment opportunities in the aforementioned sectors is to better define and understand the growth potential of different travel segments in line with the destination’s aspirations.

CLAYTON
and Consumer
Senglea
CONTENTS Issue 24 • November 2022 Published by Coordinating Editor Philippa Zammit Sales Coordinator Marisa Schembri mschembri@mediatoday.com.mt Content Writers Terrence Mifsud James Cummings Emily Francis Design Philippa Zammit Registered Address Vjal ir-Riħan San Gwann SGN9016 Malta Email pzammit@mediatoday.com.mt Contact Number +356 2138 2741 Cover Cirque du Soleil Photo credit: VisitMalta EXPLORE Oh My Malta is a B2B publication, published monthly in partnership, with the Malta Tourism Authority. It promotes Malta and Gozo as a destination and treats readers to different aspects of Maltese life, culture, culinary delights and business. Visit www.ohmymalta.com.mt for more. WHAT'S HAPPENING Events happening around Malta and Gozo 8 16 Four Day Malta Itinerary 27 Exploring the Three Cities 30 The Gems of the Village of Xagħra, Gozo
18 28 HISTORY & CULTURE 24 The History of Malta's Three Cities 32 Malta’s Macabre Month FOOD 34 The Bones of the Dead 36 Olive Picking in Wardija TALENT 38 Souvenirs to Take Home 37

WHAT'S ON

An evening of culinary delights sprinkled with a lot of liveliness. After dinner, the folklore show features six dancers in traditional eighteenthcentury costumes who will lure you into a jovial story of Maltese history told through dance. For more information visit tamarija.com

A Spooky and fun afternoon. There will be games with prizes, trick & treat, spooky costume competition, Halloween kids meal and drink, gift to all the kids, and vouchers. Book your tickets today and join the excitement. Get your tickets from showshappening.com

The festival focuses on the premise that “our ordinary is actually extraordinary”.. Everyone should have access to heritage sites, to the transcendent beauty of art, as well as to the right to participate in the expression of music. For more information visit www.festivals.mt

CSI at Esplora: Halloween Week

Visitors will learn all about the investigative science that takes place at different crime scenes by engaging in hands-on activities to follow clues and explore the world of forensic science. Join in on the fun and get your tickets from showshappening.com

Esplora Interactive Science Centre

GROUNDWATERS | Exhibition

The exhibition unearths unique aesthetic logics as well as stories of pain, hope, survival and strength. It includes ex-voto paintings, West African Bocio fetish dolls and other objects which have their roots in religion, magic and ritual.

Valletta Contemporary, Triq Lvant (East Street), Valletta

Seħer il-Baħar | Exhibition

An exhibition disclosing Anna Galea’s latest artistic exploration of the sea, one of the most spell-binding phenomena characterising our Mediterranean island. The artist probes into a fresh lens, exploring the mystery of the waters through different techniques.

Art Galleries of the Malta Society of Arts, Valletta

8 OH MY MALTA
Various locations The Three Palaces Early Opera & Music Festival 1-12 NOV Playmobil FunPark Malta, Birzebbuga Spooky Halloween at Playmobil
1 NOV
Ta’ Marija Restaurant, Mosta Folklore Dinner Shows
1-13 NOV
3-24 NOV
1-12 NOV
1-2 NOV

Best of Foo: Foo Fighters Tribute

Some of Malta’s top musicians, along with special guests, will be hitting the stage on Friday, 4 November at St Aloysius Theatre, in celebration of one of the most respected rock bands in modern music, the Foo Fighters. Get your tickets from www.ticketline.com/ bookings/

St. Aloysius College, Triq il-Ferrovija l-Qadima, Birkirkara

The Eden Stand Up Comedy Night

Ready to get a taste of some top British humour? Following past successful events, the Eden Comedy Club returns for another hysterical Stand-Up Comedy Night, with three stand-up pros setting you up for a night of laughs. Get your tickets from edencinemas.admit-one.eu

Malta Cyber Series VI: Tekken 7 Tournament (Playcon Edition)

An event consisting of a series of online tournaments acting as qualifiers leading to a physical final event hosted in Malta. This highquality broadcasted event streamed on all the major streaming platforms and includes a live audience show attracting international players.

MFCC - Malta Fairs & Conventions Centre, Attard, Malta

Medieval Malta Exhibition Series
5
NOV Eden Cinemas, St. Julian’s Malta
4
NOV
4 NOV

Wine tour and tasting

Dive into a multisensorial experience of wine, food, history,, architecture and nature. Learn the captivating process of wine making. Secondly, you will taste local wines such as Nexus and Fennici accompanied by a plate of food. Then get ready to unwind and join us in this fantastic journey!

Get your tickets from englishcafemalta.com

St Julian’s

APS Teatru Unplugged 23

Under the artistic direction of Renzo Spiteri, the twenty-third edition of APS Teatru Unplugged will feature 5 diverse acts of unplugged performances. Lineup: Airport Impressions, Stoned, The Crowns, This.Co, Gabriella Azzopardi. APS Teatru Unplugged 23 is supported by APS Bank, Baileys and Camilleri Paris Mode

Teatru Manoel, Valletta

A fair like no other with more than 50 stalls representing over 20 different nationalities! Everything from homemade baking to creative artisanal gifts. A day filled with live entertainment, fun activities and international vibes. This fair is different from any other in that it includes games like guess the number of corks in the bottle, guess the weight of the cake etc.

InterContinental, St Julian’s

Your squad’s favourite night is back for a select number of Sundays in November. Join Debrii, Carlo Gerada, Supre and some very special guests for four themes across nine Sundays; Pyjama Party, Football Fever, Trays n’ Tracksuits and Animal Assembly. Boozy Bingo is a new take on the traditional bingo that we all know and love. Get your tickets from ticketline.com

Gianpula Main Room, Malta

The Mediterranean Open Dance Festival is an international event that is organised every year in Malta. It hosts more than 500 dance competitors each year in different disciplines and categories. For more information send an email to email us chrisdancecentre@gmail.com or visit www.visitmalta.com Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Malta

Gozo’s La Stella Philharmonic will conclude the nineteenth edition of Festival Mediterranea in style, offering a spectacular concert featuring music by Ennio Morricone, one of the most influential, versatile, and experimental composers of all time. Free event; reservations can be made at info@ lastella.com.mt.

10 OH MY MALTA
International Christmas Fair 2022
13
NOV 11-12 NOV
5 NOV
Teatru Astra, Gozo Sounds of Morricone 13 NOV Mediterranean Open Dance Festival 2022 12-13 NOV Boozy Bingo: Winter Series
1-12
NOV

whereto feedyoursoul inmalta

Get ready for a massive gaming and technology festival. Delegates will get to explore top products and demos featuring the latest in gaming, emerging tech, digital health, and affiliate marketing industries. There will also be gaming areas, competitions, creative booths and other interactive activities.

Ta’ Qali expo floor and The Hilton, St Julian's

In DJ set, always faithful to the vinyl support to the point of cutting his own copies, or in live behind his machines, Umwelt delivers a fierce, dark and cinematographic music at the crossroads between the classics and an assumed modernity.

Get your tickets from www. showshappening.com

Luca Minnelli Live Concert

Luca Minnelli will be performing his hit “Forever & Ever With You” during an exceptional gala dinner evening seated concert, with ten foreign members of his musical ensemble. The gala dinner comes with an optional seated three -course lavish banquet. with free-flowing wine and champagne.

Intercontinental Hotel, St Julian’s

Having triumphed at the Met in some of the repertory’s fiercest soprano roles, Sondra Radvanovsky stars as the mythic sorceress who will stop at nothing in her quest for vengeance, kicking off the highly anticipated 2022–23 Live in HD season. Tickets cost Eur15. Get your tickets from www. kreattivita.org

This year, let's shop sustainably! At this market in Manikata, there will be stalls selling handmade crafts, fashion items, beauty products, and other eco-friendly products, as well as guilt-free food delicacies. There will also be a children’s sewing workshop along with book-reading activities. Entrance is free.

19 NOV
Valletta
MET Encore Medea
20 NOV
Liquid Club, San Gwann Sketch: Umwelt
18
NOV 19-20 NOV Christmas Green Fair Il-Majjistral Nature & History Park, Manikata
12 OH MY MALTA
Malta Week
14-18 NOV

23-27 NOV

Operetta singers from Milan (tenor Andrea Bragiotto and soprano Barbara Fasol) will perform solos and duettos from popular operettas, while the La Valette Band conducted by Mro Dominic Darmanin will perform the overtures of some operettas. Get your tickets from www.showshappening. com

Catholic Institute, Floriana

Malta Book Festival 2022

Malta Book Festival will be boasting a record number of more than 50 exhibitors. Over 8,000 square metres of space is being dedicated to exhibition areas for publishers, booksellers and NGOs, and activity areas for the numerous book presentations and discussions.

International Challenge Marathon

Malta’s only multi-day race, a stable event on the Maltese athletics calendar, attracting since its inception over 5000 locals and foreigner athletes looking forward to an unusual ‘Challenge’. Spread over a period of three consecutive days, athletes cover a distance that measures exactly 42.195km. Visit bsj.mt for more information.

MFCC, Ta’ Qali

Amora by Cirque du Soleil

AMORA is a love story full of acrobatics and heart-pumping performances that will keep the audience on the edge of their seat. AMORA invites you to wander the whimsical and wonder-filled world of La Valette, where the streets come alive with heart-racing acrobatics, curious characters, and the contagious power of love. Get tickets from www.visitmalta.com

MCC, Valletta

Siggiewi, Marsascala & St. Paul’s Bay

A Kick in The Baubles

Frank does not wish it could be Christmas every day - in fact, he’s dreading the arrival of snobbish in-laws who only ever bring a single bottle of wine for the entire festivities. Throw in a couple of neighbours, let the drink flow merrily, and everything is set for a car-crash Christmas. Get your tickets from www.madc.com. mt

MADC Playhouse, St. Venera

25 NOV-4 DEC 24 NOV -18 DEC
25-27 NOV Magia di Operette
19 NOV 13OH MY MALTA

Christmas in the Capital

The Valletta Cultural Agency’s Programme will take place in the main squares and locations in Valletta. The Christmas Tree near Parliament, the crib that narrates Christ’s birth and the various family activities held, celebrate the Christmas spirit. The Valletta National New Year’s Eve celebration will provide a spectacle, including a fireworks display.

Valletta

Grand Christmas Market by Malta Artisan Markets

Malta’s top artisans will be showcasing and selling their products in the Grand Ballroom and the stunning rooms upstairs as well as in the garden. Thoughtfully curated, the market will present around 40 artisan producers offering a variety of arts and crafts including homeware & accessories, handcrafts, mixed media arts, as well as local food producers.

Palazzo Parisio, Naxxar

An International Wheelchair and able-bodied Ballroom, Latin American, Freestyle, team match with international dancers. Started in 2002, this event is all about integration and enjoying dance, including watching the judges dance. A mixed international team match is the final highlight on the Sunday evening.

Various locations

The Magical Illuminated Trail

The Magical Illuminated Trail includes new attractions for all the family to enjoy. Following the success of the last two years, this year’s event will feature hundreds of new larger than life lantern illuminated sculptures, light installations, projections and much more. there will also be a Christmas village where you can find personalised Christmas baubles, candles and festive décor, toys, various food options, delicious Christmas treats and games for all the family to enjoy

The Verdala Palace, Buskett

The programme includes two canonical works from the piano literature: Debussy Preludes (Book 1) and Mussorgsky’s Pictures at an Exhibition. Both the performer and the audience are taken through a myriad of colours and emotions, as both works unfold as paintings in sound.

Malta Society of Arts, Republic Street, Valletta, Malta Mussorgsky’s 'Pictures at an Exhibition'
29
NOV
25 NOV-7 JAN
Malta Open Dance Spectacular 2022 26-27 NOV
26 NOV
25 NOV-24 DEC 14 OH MY MALTA

FOUR DAY

ITINERARY MALTA

Malta is a treasured tourist destination with a perfect Mediterreanen climate and pictureseque scenery that has been used as a backdrop for big-budget movies for decades. There is so much to explore and if you’re only staying for a few days, that can be seen as daunting. That is why OhMyMalta has compiled a full fledged four day itinerary to ascertain that you get the most out of the Maltese archipelago and what it has to offer!

DAY 1: VALLETTA AND COTTONERA

We highly suggest that you make your way to the Maltese capital of Valletta on your first full day. You would want to explore every nook and cranny of the fortified city without feeling rushed by your plans. Chosen as the 2018 European Capital of Culture, Valletta is an instant fanfavouite by the tourists who have to opportunity to take a stroll through the city walls to the Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens to take in the breathtaking views of the Three Cities, the Mediterranean Sea, and the cathedral of St. John, which is known for its striking Caravaggio paintings and majestic façade. Other major attractions

Valletta to Birgu: No. 51

Valletta to Senglea: No. 41

Valletta to Bormla: No. 41

enclosed in the capital city are the grandmaster palace, St Elmo’s heritage building and the national museum of archeology.

In the early afternoon, you can then board a boat to the Three Cities for just a couple of euros to discover the adjacent cities of Vittoriosa, Cospicua, and Senglea. Malta’s authentic vibes can be found in the Three Cities’ winding alleyways and traditional architecture. Finish of your day by catching the ferry back to Valletta and find a table at a restaurant in strait street so you can unwind and finish off your day the best way possible!

16 OH MY MALTA
Bus Routes
17OH MY MALTA
The Capital City, Valletta Barrakka Gardens, Valletta The Three Cities

DAY 2: MDINA,RABAT & DINGLI

Your second day on the island should be all about the exploration of Malta’s historic aspect. This is where you can visit the lovely ancient walled city of Mdina and the nearby towns of Rabat and Dingli! Rabat is a rather tiny, walkable city with beautiful back alleyways and architecture. The catacombs of St. Paul's Cathedral are also worth visiting. Take a stroll in Mdina’s winding streets to find out why it’s regarded as Malta’s ‘Silent City’.

Bus Routes
These Bus lines stop near Mdina: 202, 51, 53, X3 Bus Route to Dingli from Mdina: 181 towards Dingli Bus Route to Dingli From Rabat: 52 towards Dingli Approx. Taxi Fare: €10-20
Mdina
Gate
Dingli Cliffs

Then, you can spend the late afternoon exploring Dingli. Instantly recognisable by its towering cliffs looking over the Mediterranean Sea, Dingli is not only sought-after by the thousands of tourists who flock to Malta every year also with the locals around. This is due to the untamed nature, great food, and picturesque landscapes that encompass Dingli and its haunting surroundings. Being the highest point on the island, Dingli captivates visitors with its coastal views and vicious waves splashing against its cliffs.

This western coast of the island offers tourists and locals an exclusive view of Filfa and the Mediterranean Sea. Dingli cliffs is also the perfect destination for a

The Winding Streets of Mdina Dingli Cliffs Pastizzi

DAY 3: GOZO

You cannot truly proclaim to your friends that you have visited Malta if you did not spend a day or two in Gozo. Taking the bus to Cirkewwa then the boat to Malta’s sister island is the most ideal and affordable way to travel. Gozo is relatively small in comparison to her big sister, so the best way to make your way through the island is to setting your shop in Victoria, the capital. It offers the finest bus links to wherever else you would wish to go and is centrally located on the island.

You can visit the Xwenji Salt Pans to learn how natural Gozitan sea salt is formed, or take advantage of the island's stunning beaches . We know what you’re thinking, it’s November. But, you’ll be surprised at how many people are actually taking a dip into Malta’s shores. If this isn’t your thing, going on a trekking expedition exploring Gozo’s landscapes is also another viable option.

You can end the day in Gozo at one of the many outstanding restaurants on the island, after spending the day relaxing in the warm Mediterranean seas or seeing more of the amazing island.

Bus Routes Bus Route to Cirkewwa From Valletta: 41 towards Cirkewwa Approx. Taxi Fare: €25-35
Xwejni Salt Pans
Ta' Pinu, Gozo Citadel, Victoria, Gozo
21OH MY MALTA

DAY 4: MARSAXLOKK & ST JULIANS

If you happen to be in Malta on a Sunday, aim to arrive early for Marsaxlokk’s renowned fish market, which is held every week in this little fishing village. The open market also has icecream vendors, souvenir vendors, and much more. It offers some of the island's greatest seafood. There are several seafood places where you may experience the freshest catch of the day; offering great meals at reasonable prices. Once you've had your fill of delectable fish, proceed to the neighbouring St. Peter's Pool.

22 OH MY MALTA
Remains of search light post Marsaxlokk

If you’re in the mood to end your trip with a bit of a bang, make your way to St Julians. The meandering promenade that wraps along the edge of Spinola Bay is a sight to behold. It’s also recommended to find an eatery for a lateafternoon dinner while basking in st Julian’s lively environment.

Spinola, St Julian's St Peter's Pool Bus Routes To Valletta from Marsaxlokk: 82 towards Marsaxlokk To St Julians from Marsaxlokk: 82 towards Valletta & 13A towards St Julians To St Julians from Valletta: 13A towards St Julians
Approx.
Taxi Fare:
€10-20 23

THREE CI

Words by Terrence Mifsud

TIES

Afascinating

look into Malta's past may be unravelled once you step into the allure of Cottonera. Cottonera, or the ‘Three Cities’, provides an insightful look into Malta's rich maritime and wartime history.

Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua (you might come across their laconic names: Birgu, L-Isla and Bormla respectively) have all served as a fortification and home to nearly every person to settle on the Islands. It wouldn’t be a surprise if The Three Cities legitimately lay claim to being the birthplace of Maltese history.

Since Phoenician days, their inlets have been in use as harbours; the docks have always provided a means of subsistence for the residents, but they have also left them vulnerable during times of strife between Malta's rulers.

Valletta's palaces, churches, forts, and bastions are far more recent in comparison to the Three Cities, which served as the Knights of St. John's original residence.

Although Vittoriosa has been inhabited since the Phoenicians, the present city was founded during the reign of the Order of Saint John. Vittoriosa was chosen as

the capital of Malta when the Order arrived in 1530. After the attack in 1551, Senglea was built on the peninsula known as ‘L'Isola’. In Vittoriosa, Fort Saint Michael and Fort Saint Angelo were built on the sites of Senglea and Castrum Maris, respectively. Geographically, the Three Cities are immediately across Grand Harbour to the east of Valletta, the country's capital.

The Three Cities, which have a combined population of over 11,000, are gradually rediscovering their former fame, drawing numerous locals who are interested in settling in their hospitable environment.

After being driven from Rhodes in 1522 and spending seven years in exile, the Knights were finally awarded Malta as their new base of operations. They established Vittoriosa as their capital, renaming the old citadel Castrum Maris Fort St. Angelo, adding new defences, and constructing many new structures including as churches, auberges, warehouses, and palaces. Initially, the Knights moved to Vittoriosa because of the Grand Harbour, but they in fact grew fond of the fortified city.

The cities were besieged during the Great Siege of Malta in 1565; after the siege, Vittoriosa and Senglea were awarded the names Città Vittoriosa and Città Invicta, respectively. Following the siege, Valletta was built, and in 1571 it took the

position of Vittoriosa as the nation's capital. After upgrading the defences under the direction of Grandmaster Nicolas Cotoner, Grandmaster Marc'Antonio Zondadari named the town of Bormla Città Cospicua in 1722. During World War II, the Three Cities were bombed mercilessly. They had to be rebuilt in the 1950s and 1960s. Consequently, after the war, the Cottonera area lost a significant portion of its educated and professional population, and the cities later saw a resurgence of the working class. This caused the area to have higher rates of illiteracy, unemployment, assistance recipients.

As you meander around the Three Cities, you cannot help but be enthralled by the enormous bastions that have been recently restored to their former glory. The Three Cities are all distinct cities and have a lot to offer in their own right. The oratory of the parish church in Bormla, which has six kilometres of fortifications, is loaded with pieces of immaculate artwork. Senglea is home to two splendid churches, St. Philip’s, and Our Lady of Victories, as well as a picturesque park at the island's tip that views out over Grand Harbour and has an example of a Gardjola guard post.

You too can discover the history of the Three Cities, explore the magnificent yacht harbour, or just relax at one of the many adjacent wine bars, eateries, or cafés that are located there. We promise you won’t regret it!

THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN THE THREE CITIES

CHECK OUT SENGLEA’S FORTIFICATIONS

The Senglea fortifications, also known as ‘Is-Swar tal-Isla’ in Maltese, are a system of defensive walls and other fortifications that encircle the city of Senglea. After it was built by Grand Master Claude de la Sengle, the other defences were built over the course of the next 10 years, with Fort Saint Michael being the first to be built in 1552. Up to the 18th century, the fortifications were altered, but throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, a significant amount of them was destroyed. Senglea's defences are now reduced to the seaward bastions and a section of the land front. The St. Michael Bastion is our particular favourite.

ADMIRE ST HELEN’S GATE IN COSPICUA

The main entrance to the Santa Margherita Lines is called St. Helen's Gate. It was built in the Baroque style in 1736, under the supervision of Grand Master António Manoel de Vilhena, to a design by Charles François de Mondion. St. Helen's Gate Baroque doorway is one of the most outstanding Hospitaller gates from the 18th century. The two half-columns that support the cornice on the portal's façade are supported by two alternate grades of plain and rusticated hardstone masonry. The style of the gate is evocative to Mondion's 1726 Main Gate for Fort Manoel. There are only two gates in Malta with life-size artillery piece representations, the other being Porte des Bombes.

THE INQUISITOR’S PALACE IN VITTORIOSA

The Inquisitor's is also known as the Sacred Palace (Maltese: Il-Palazz tal-Inkwiżitur). The structure, back then known as the Castellania, was constructed as a courthouse at the beginning of the 16th century. Due to several repairs and reconstructions carried out over the next decades, just a small portion of the original building is still in place today. After the inquisition was abolished in 1798, the palace performed a number of duties, including those of a military hospital, a mess hall, and a convent. It has been a museum since 1966 and has been known as the National Museum of Ethnography since 1992.

EXPLORE THE COTTONERA LINES

The Cottonera Lines, are a line of fortifications in Cospicua and Birgu, Malta. Due to concerns about an Ottoman invasion, they were built in the 17th and 18th centuries to serve as an extra barrier to protect the area around the inner harbour. The Cottonera Lines are comprised of nine curtain walls, seven majestic entrances, eight demi-bastions, two bastions, and eight other fortifications. Even if sections of the Lines are not currently in their best condition, they nevertheless provide some of the best views on the island, giving a clear view of the Grand Harbour, the South of Malta, and the hills and valleys that go all the way to Mdina.

27OH MY MALTA

THE GEMS OF THE VILLAGE OF

XAGĦRA GOZO

One of the charms of the island of Gozo is that each village has its own unique features waiting to be discovered. Beautiful churches, quaint wayside chapels, historic places, squares and alleys imbued with a typically Mediterranean vibe, scenic valleys and photogenic hilltops simply await to be noticed by the visitor who dedicates time to absorb the authentic Gozo experience.

Xagħra is one such place ideal for a hiking village tour. Located on the hilltop plateau on the northern side of Gozo, the village is a real gem. There are various routes that you can follow to hike through it, but make sure you’re checking out these landmarks.

Aerial shot of the Ġgantija Temples

Ġgantija and the prehistory annals

Most of the visitors to the island of Gozo make a stopover at Xagħra and drop by at Ġgantija Temples, which are world-renowned landmarks. This UNESCO World Heritage site includes a museum and it is famous for its megaliths and the gigantic boulders that were used to erect this temple. Another prehistoric site to explore is the Xagħra Stone Circle or the Brockdorff Circle which is a series of underground burial chambers some 400 metres away from the Ġgantija complex. The lesser known Santa Verna Temple is another prehistoric site, but one over which time has not been so clement and thus here one can only see the remains of what was once a temple.

A collection of Caves and Grottos

Xagħra’s geology is one dotted with caves and caverns. Two interesting spots which you want to hunt out in the village of Xagħra are Ninu’s Cave and Xerri’s Grotto. These are two caves that are located within private residences. Both Ninu’s Cave and Xerri’s Grotto were discovered when the respective owners wanted to dig for water and stumbled upon these caverns with stalactites and stalagmites. Beyond these caverns, there’s the vantage point of Calypso’s Cave. Considered unsafe because of geological movements, this cave is closed to the public but its location brings in an evocative view of Ramla l-Ħamra. With such a magnificent view worthy of the gods, it is easy to believe that this was indeed the abode of the nymph Calypso.

View from Calypso Cave area

TA’ KOLA WINDMILL

30 OH MY MALTA

Xagħra has a bit of everything. Away from the geological wonders of stalactites and stalagmites and the mystery of the megaliths, Xagħra is also the home of Ta’ Kola windmill. The windmill is like a nostalgic touch of rural Gozo and once you enter you can delve into how the miller and his family lived in times gone by when grinding flour for bread was part of everyday life.

Museum of Toys

Another particular place to check out is the Pomskizillious museum of toys. The toy museum is a private collection of toys from all over the world. The name of the museum is a nod to Edward Lear, the artist and writer who visited Gozo in 1866 to satiate his wanderlust and went on to describe Gozo by coining a new word - Pomskizillious – which essentially means that “no words can describe its magnificence.”

Basilica and churches

In Xagħra, one finds three churches, the basilica, the church

of Jesus of Nazareth and the church of St. Anthony the Abbot. There is no doubt that the baroque basilica dedicated to the Nativity of Our Lady (Marija Bambina) is worth a visit. The interior of the church is an amazing kaleidoscopic work in marble and gilding, and it is also enriched with prestigious paintings. The older chapel dedicated to St. Anthony the Abbot dates back to 1520 and has a close connection with the story of the plague in Gozo. Today the chapel is popular in January for the feast of St. Anthony the Abbot and the traditional blessing of the animals.

The Village Square

Take a lull from your village hiking tour at the main square. It is the perfect place for lunch or a quick snack. The main square in Xaghra is not only a delightful meeting point and hub for the village, but it also offers a variety of restaurants and cafés.

Xagħra is the quintessential Gozitan village. There is no doubt that it rings with sempiternal vibes that it has been there since the beginning of time and that it has been tessellated with a myriad of historic attractions and legends that make any hike or tour worthy of your time.

31OH MY MALTA Ta’ Kola

Malta’s Macabre Month

Each year, Malta marks November — or, ix-xahar talmejtin (“Month of the Dead”), as it is known — with religious traditions celebrating loved ones who have departed the world of life. Commemorated primarily on 2 November with the festival of L-Ghid tal-Erwieh (literally, “the word of souls”), this long-standing tradition is punctuated by the toll of church bells, extended access hours to cemeteries and special festive sweetbreads called Għadam tal-mejtin (“dead men's bones”) — see page 34 — with thoughts and prayers turning to the deceased, as well as to celebrating life.

Festivities dedicated to the dead are an established and important part of many belief systems around the world, with Halloween perhaps the most recognisable today due to its relatively recent large-scale adoption in North America through European colonialisation, and the arguably heavily-commercialised nature of the holiday today. The roots of this within Christianity may be — in part, at least — attributed to the Gaelic festival of Samhain,

a spiritual practise dating back to Celtic paganism and first incorporated into Western Christianity in the 9th century as All Saints’ Day (or, All Hallows’ Day). Characterised by gatherings and feasts, costumes, the opening of burial mounds and offerings of food and drink for the spirits of the deceased, the influence of Samhain in similar Christian festivities, while not directly clear, may be inferred by the remarkable similarities common to both.

In Malta, the spiritual nature of the feast is largely focused on the memories of the departed, and the idea of redemption, a philosophy central to Christian ideology. Throughout L-Ghid tal-Erwieh, people honour the dead and attempt to assist the spirits of those in purgatory — a temporary place between the earthly realm and the afterlife where the spirits of the deceased undergo a form of spiritual cleansing, or purging, before passing on — with offerings and prayers. These are seen as able to assist those in purgatory, providing atonement through charitable acts, ceremonies and feasts.

Photo: Paul
Herrera 32 OH MY MALTA
We examine Malta’s rich cultural and spiritual traditions celebrating life, and the memories of the deceased

In the modern world, many of the more traditional aspects of ix-xahar tal-mejtin are no longer practised, with such examples including the donating of vegetables and the communal cooking of roast pork. In the past, the local community would donate vegetables to the Franciscan order of monks, who would use these to make a soup called il-minestra tal-erwieh, something which, in addition to the roasted pork mentioned above, now survives primarily as part of a feast on 2 November called L-ikla tal-Għid l-Erwieħ (“The Easter Meal of the Souls”). This meal is replete with symbolism and includes: an alcoholic drink mixed with fruit, signifying the sweetness yet bitterness of life; toast topped with garlic and parsley, to signify the mourning of deceased loved ones; the aforementioned vegetable soup, included for its traditional relevance and to represent the act of charity; roasted pork, referencing a sacrificial offering, and finally the “dead men’s bones” as discussed earlier in this article. The latter are included to remind us that, eventually, only bones will remain of our time here on earth — a stark, if sombre, look at the journey of life into death.

One tradition that is still practised on a communal level, albeit to a lesser extent than in the past, is the procession of masked fraternities collecting funds for a mass dedicated to the souls of those who have died. These masks typically feature iconography related to death and the afterlife, with such examples including ghost-like visages and skulls.

In all, despite the somewhat macabre nature of Malta's “Month of the Dead”, it is, without doubt, a fascinating occasion and something not to be missed. Though widespread adherence to many of its customs has undeniably been reduced in the face of a changing, modernised society, its poignant symbolism and underlying cultural importance remains a constant, if slightly diminished, presence. Though many of the festival’s traditions now continue mainly as culinary representations, these nonetheless keep this rich heritage alive in Malta, and, who knows, perhaps more conversations around the dinner table now and into the future will echo with hushed tones paying homage to departed loved ones, and, most importantly, celebrating life.

33OH MY MALTA

THE BONES OF THE DEAD

THE HISTORY BEHIND THIS EXQUISITE TRADITIONAL MALTESE PASTRY

The graves are cleansed and adorned on 1 AND 2 November, but it's the November Bones (also known as l-Għadam tal-Mejtin), which extend the event far beyond those fortyeight hours. The "Bones of the Dead", often referred to as

34 OH MY MALTA

the "November Bones," are a type of traditional Maltese pastry cookie that are exclusively sold in the months of October and November. Their roots have been long-established from Christianity and

were originally made to honour departed family members on November 2nd, also known as All Souls Day. Nowadays, these scrumptious delectable are enjoyed as a treat, and they go nicely with a cup of tea.

The November Bones are shaped like bones, made of pastry and pure almond paste, and coated with white royal icing to smooth out the dough’s crevices. These pasties are layered with flavour, from cardamom, cloves, almonds, and even aniseed. Frankly, it is simply ideal for those with a sweet tooth! The flaky, mouth-melting shortcrust pastry and the exquisite almond paste filling are both equally delicious.

If you ever had the opportunity to try the ‘Figolla’, Malta’s easter delicacy, you probably have noticed the use of similar ingredients. In reality, the main difference between the Bones of the Dead recipe and the traditional Maltese Figolli recipe is their shape. The Novemeber bones tend to resemble big sugar biscuits while Figolli are often shaped into animals such as a sheep or a bunny. While the earliest use of the name ‘Figolli’ has been dated to 1660, the November Bones may have been created as early as the 17th century.

The topography of Malta is primarily responsible for these peculiar pastries. The country has been a nexus for both trade and invasion since the dawn of time. Many Maltese flavourings have origins in the Middle East, North Africa, and continental Europe as a result of this and the dearth of substantial natural resources in Malta.

It is challenging to pinpoint the exact roots of the November bones since historical references are scarce and there is also a lack of publications on the history of Maltese cuisine.

They’re sold pretty much everywhere - in rural pastry shops, confectioners' shops, bakeries, café’s, eateries, and souvenir shops. These edible memento mori are a staple of Malta's longstanding observance of the Month of the Dead and we hope you get the opportunity to relish in their goodness!

35OH MY MALTA

OLIVE PICKING IN WARDIJA: THE JOURNEY OF BIDNI OLIVE OIL

This is one of the most exciting articles for me, personally, ever since I became wildly curious and fascinated with the Bidni Olives of Malta. Ever since our olive interview last year with Sammy Cremona, where we got to see olives that were already harvested and pressed into oil, I have been on the hunt to find a Bidni orchard and watch as olives are harvested from the trees.

First, allow me to introduce you to the Bidni olive. These little power-packed olives are native to Malta only. They are extremely high in antioxidants and polyphenols and very low in acid. For this reason, they are olives with some of the highest health benefits of any olive in the world. There is currently research being done on using these olives to fight chronic illnesses. The thing about the Bidni besides that they are carbon-dated to go back more than 2,000 years to the Roman Empire, is that they are much smaller in size than other olives. Because we didn’t know better, many farmers destroyed their Bidni olive trees and planted other olive oil trees that would offer more bang for the buck. Now that we are

learning just how healthy and valuable these olives are, they are making a strong comeback.

We were delighted to have the opportunity to join the Grima Family Olive Oil Orchard and the Mediterranean Culinary Academy as they offered their special event: Branch to Bottle. This event only happens on a Friday-Sunday for two weeks only out of every year when the olives are the perfect ripeness. Groups sign up to come to the farm and learn about the Bidni olives and help pull the olives from the trees. They get a tour from the farmers themselves, Joseph and Immanuel Grima where they teach about the Bidni Olive Trees and how the oil that they make with the Bidni olive is a monocultivar extra virgin olive oil. This means that no other olive varieties go into the MCA bottles of Olive Oil that the Grima Family Farm provides. Usually, with most olive oils, they are a blend of a few different varieties of olives. With the Mediterranean Culinary Academy or MCA BIDNI bottles that they created with Joseph and Immanuel, there are no other olive oil varieties in their bottles of oil.

Immanuel showed us the magnificent Bidni trees and explained that February is when they prune the trees each year cutting most of the middle out and pruning the branches into an umbrella shape. This allows the leaves and olives to get as much exposure to the sun as possible. The trees are also spaced out 20 feet or 5x5 meters to make sure that all the branches and leaves are able to be in direct sunlight and not under the shadows of other branches from neighboring trees. I feel like the olive trees are much like us in that way. We all need our own space to feel the sun and to be able to grow without limitations. We all need fresh air and not too much wind. We all need strong roots that can withstand the weather changes as they come. There is much to be learned from these sacred jewels of the island.

Following the group’s tour and harvesting as many olives as they possibly could, they were led down to an open area where two long and gorgeous tables were waiting for the group. The chefs from MCA then proceeded to serve a three-course meal along with unlimited wine and olive oil. We spoke with Kurt Mifsud, founder

of the Mediterranean Culinary Academy. He led us through their event and showed us a sneak peek into their makeshift kitchen where are few of their incredible chefs, including one of my personal favourite chef/ instructors, David Vella, was preparing the dishes.

If you read this article and are sad to have missed such an event, there are still events such as this at other farms coming up; including one of our other interview partners, Vincent’s Eco Estate. Be sure to

look around and see who might still be harvesting olives and what fun things you might get to do here during the olive oil season!

This is a most special time of year both for farmers and visitors. But it’s a short season where the olives for oils and grapes for wine come into their season quickly and then move on to fulfill their destiny of becoming some of the world’s best oil or wine!

37
OH MY MALTA

TAKE ME HOME

We’re sad to see you go but to make your departure a little bit sweeter, we’ve compiled a list of all things Maltese, which you should definitely make space in your luggage for

BOTTLE 'FLIXKUN' PRINT

Limited edition artworks inspired by the times gone by. The creative duo behind ‘Flixkun’ or ‘bottle’ in Engish is intrigued by mundane objects that evokes emotions through their untold stories.

Using the necessary amount of sugar and no artificial additives Andrea’s relaxation hobby turned into ‘ with love from our kitchen’. Using local produce she has produced over 40 types of jams/ chutneys, that cater for everyone's tastebuds.

CERAMIC HANMADE MUGS

Everyone deserves the perfect coffee but what about the perfect cup? Space for Clay offers exactly that!

Wheel-thrown by Rosella Schembri, a master potterer at Malta’s largest ceramic studio (and a workshop space open to anyone interested in learning pottery).

HANDMADE VASE

Who couldn't want to take home some tableware, too?

Ceramics by Tiz is formed by Tiziana Schembri, a Maltese ceramic artist currently based in Tallinn, where she produces tableware for restaurants and cafes, as well as homeware items that are sold in stores across Europe. Each piece is uniquely crafted and represents a perfect combination of high-quality design and functionality.

HOMEMADE JAM
38 OH MY MALTA

PATTERNED CUSHION

Natalie Couto, a creator of Patterntalk, designs patterns that invoke dreams, passions, and everyday sentiments. She believes that patterns can be a way to communicate a person’s lifestyle and cultural influences. Her designs are printed on many products, including home décor, wallpapers, accessories, and many others.

COLLECTION OF PRINTS

Illustrated by Jimmy Grima and hand-printed by 'Island of Print- Max Saliba '. This collection of 5 prints is inspired by the beautiful surroundings and marine life on the Island of Gozo.

PLANT-BASED MALTESE COOKBOOK

Putting a twist on traditional Maltese recipes, Daniel Pisani offers a bit of everything in his cookbook, from collaborating with local creators to sharing his own story, this plantbased cookbook is easy to follow and organised according to seasons.

FLORAL BOOKMARK

MALTA DOOR POSTCARD

While exploring Malta you will quickly notice beautifully made doors and “Habbata”(Door knocker) which decorate the front of usually older buildings. Lali’s photographs see a different perspective of our island as she focuses to capture the peace and authenticity the island has to offer.

Guide curated by IL-LOKAL, a community of local designers, artists and independent brands. Visit their gift shop at Old Bakery Street in Valletta to discover what Malta’s creative talent has to offer. www.il-lokal.com

39
OH MY MALTA

FERRIES

Cirkewwa, Malta – Mgarr, Gozo

Operates daily

Departure time: Approx. every 30 mins

From 12am – 23:15pm Crossing time: Approx. 25 mins

Cirkewwa Malta - Blue Lagoon Operates daily Departure time: Approx. Every 30 mins

From 8:30am – 5:30pm

3 Cities – Valletta Operates daily Departure time: Approx. every 15 mins

Monday – Saturday from 6:45am –23:30pm

Sundays & public holidays from 9:00am – 23:30pm

Sliema – Valletta ferry Operates daily Departure time: Approx. Every 15 mins

Monday – Saturday from 6:45am –11:45pm

Sunday & public holidays from 8:45am – 11:45pm

CURRENCY EXCHANGE

Fexserv Financial Services Ltd

Alpine House, Triq In-Naxxar, San Gwann +356 2576 2576

Opening hours: Monday – Friday from 8.30am – 6pm, Saturday from 9am12.30pm

MEDICAL SERVICES

Mater Dei Hospital +356 2545 0000

Triq Dun Karl, Imsida

Opening hours: 24/7

St. James Hospital +356 2329 1000

Triq Gorg Borg Olivier, Sliema St James Square, Zabbar Opening hours: 24/7

Floriana Health Centre +356 2124 3314

F.S. Fenech Street, Floriana Opening hours: 24/7

Gozo Health Centre (Vic toria) + 356 2215 6820

Triq Enrico Mizzi, Victoria, Gozo Opening hours: Monday-Sunday

07:00-20:00

CAR RENTAL GoTo Car Sharing

Car Sharing Services Malta Ltd, Mdina Road, Zebbug, ZBG 9017, Malta

TAXI SERVICES

Cool Ride-Pooling +356 2014 7600

eCabs +3562138 3838

HAIR SALONS

Toni&Guy +356 2138 0129

7, Uqija Street, Ibrag Swieqi, Opening hours: Monday – Saturday from 10am – 7pm

SERVICES 40 OH MY MALTA

Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.