FASHION BUYING final project
OLGA LOBODA Fashion Marketing Level 5
LA RINASCENTE MENSWEAR WOMENSWEAR CHILDRENSWEAR ACCESSORIES JEWELLERY •
Italy’s top department store
PERFUMES AND COSMETICS
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Flagship location, «shopping monument»
HOUSEHOLD GOODS
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10 floors
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11 stores in central locations in Italy
DESIGN MARKET
Monday to Thursday 9.30-21.00 Friday to Saturday 9.30-22.00 Sunday 10.00-21.00
FOOD SUPERMARKET CAFES & RESTAURANTS
LA RINASCENTE DIRECTORY Main Building
-1
4
Design Supermarket
High-end women’s collections
Decor, coffee & tea, north european design, electronics & hi fi, gadgets, lighting, books, office, kitchen and tableware, luggage and travel items, bar della rina, cafe’
Contemporary designer women’s collections
Ground Floor
Lingerie
Cosmetics
Childrenswear
Fashion and textile accessories
Children shoes
Jewellery
6
Watches
Bed & Bath homecollections
Sunglasses
Kitchen, luxury tableware and table linens
Balcony
Home & decor
Fashion accessories and jewellery
Customer’s service desk
1
Wedding registry
Men’s fashion collections
Tax refund office
Men’s shoes
Gift wrap service
access to Casual & Jeans area
7
2
Food & Restaurants
Men’s classic and casual collections
restaurants, food market, panoramic view, terrace
Men’s underwear acess to Casual & Jeans area
Maio Restaurant, Obika Mozzarella Bar, BE-Steak, My Sushi, De Santis, Il Bar, YN Vineria, Juicebar, Champagnerie Noet & Chandon, Cioccolateria, ArtedelRicevere, Food Market
3
8
Classic designer women’s collections
Aldo Coppola hair stylist
Designer shoe area
5
DIRECTORY Santa Radegonda, 10
0 Women’s accessories Sunglasses Gadgets
1 Contemporary women’s collections Jeans bar
2 Casual & denim men’s collections Sewing repairs and alterations
HISTORY
The long story of La Rinacente started In 1865, when Bocconi brothers opened Italy's first ready-to-wear dress shop in Milan. The success was immediate and huge, following the opening of the store in piazza Duomo which has a department store format, it was named «Aux Villes d'Italie». The concept of walk-in store with ready-to-wear clothes was completely new for the Italian customer. It had been inspired by Le Bon Marche in Paris, which was the first department store in the history of fashion. The success of the brothers‘ business was very short though. The war caused problems for the company and it was about to flop. Advertising and communication strategies were not developed well and in the beginning of 1900s La Rinascente was bought by Senatore and Romualdo Borletti. He started his strategy with re-developing the image of the store. Decadent poet Gabriele d’Annunzio, the most influential figure in the cultural life in Italy in that time, was hired in order to develop it. He suggested «La Rinascente» meaning the rebirth, which was truly the re-birth: of European fashion, of their store and the after-war Italy.
KEY DATES 1865 Bocconi brothers open Italy's first ready-to-wear dress shop in Milan 1877 Opening in piazza Duomo with department store format (ÂŤAux Villes d'ItalieÂť) 1917 Senatore and Romualdo Borletti acquire control of Bocconi's store 1918 The short circuit caused the fire and the store was completely burnt 1928 Upim, a fixed-price variety goods store, is launched 1950 The La Rinascente store, destroyed during Allied bombing attacks, reopens in Milan. 1961 The company extends into the supermarket sector with the launch of the Sma supermarket chain 1969 The property goes to Fiat group 1972 The company opens the first hypermarket in Italy, Citta Mercati (City Market) 1983 The Bricocenter DIY chain is launched (including Leroy Merlin) 1988 Sigros e Sagea, a supermarket and cash-and-carry store group, is acquired 1995 The company acquires Cedis-Migliarini, a regional supermarket group. 1997 Auchan and IFIL found Eurofind, which becomes the majority shareholder of La Rinascente. 1998 SIB, which takes over Bricocenters and Auchan's Italian Leroy Merlin stores, is created. 2002 Auchan and IFIL launch a buyout of La Rinascente, delisting it from the Borsa Italiana. 2004 Auchan acquires control of La Rinascente's food store operations, leaving only the La Rinascente and Upim store chains. 2005 La Rinascente is acquired by a consortium led by the Borletti family and including Pirelli Real Estate. 2006 Together with Deutsche Bank the group bought Printemps 2007-2010 Due to the market repositioning the filial stores in Bari, Bergamo, Grugliasco, Lodi, Naples and Milan (Viale Certosa) were closed 2010 The Palermo filial store was moved in via Roma (ex Upim), a 4 500 sqm space 2010 The Rome filial store was moved in await of the new opening 2011 Central Retail Corporation a subsidiary company of Thai Central Group of Companies took over 100% of La Rinascente 2013 The group took over the Copenhagen department store Illum
COMPANY
ADRESS: via Washington, 70 Milan, MI 20146 Italy
FOUNDED in 1865 PHONE: 39 02 467711 FAX: 39 02 46 77 13 87 www.rinascente.it
KEY EXECUTIVES: Mr. Vittorio Radice Chief Executive Officer of La Rinascente division Age: 51 Mr. Luca Rossetto Chief Executive Officer of Upim Division Age: 50 Mr. Benoit François Lheureux Managing Director and Director Mr. Giovanni Cobolli Gigli Managing Director and Director
All the members of management team agreed to remain after the acquisition by the Central Retail Group
OWNERS AND SHARE HOLDERS Principal Subsidiaries: La Rinascente; Upim. Principal Competitors: Coin S.p.A.; SME S.p.A.; Standa S.p.A.
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Senatore and Romualdo Borletti
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Fiat
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Eurofind
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Auchan
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IFIL
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Tamerice S.r.l.: Investitori Associati, Pirelli Real Estate, Deutsche Bank Real Estate Global Opportunities IB L.P., Borletti family
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Central Retail Corporation
BOARD MEMBERS Insiders on board members NAME
TITLE
Benoit Lheureux
Managing Director and Director
Giovanni Cobolli Gigli
Managing Director and Director
Other board members NAME
PRIMARY COMPANY
Maurizio Borletti
Borletti Group S.C.A.
Carlo Vismara
Arnoldo Mondadori Editore SpA
Xavier Delom de Mezerac
Groupe Auchan SA
Guy Geffroy
La Rinascente S.p.A.
Christophe Dubrulle
Group Auchan SA
Franzo Stevens
Fiat S.p.A.
Luigi Arnudo
Colmark
Gabriele di Genoia e Suniglia
Assicurazioni Generali S.p.A.
Marco Weigmann
Buzzi Unicem SpA
Dario Cossutta
Investitori Associati SGR SpA
Luca Liberali
Lehman Brothers Holdings, Inc.
Paolo Mantero
Novamont S.p.A.
DISTRIBUTION Central Retail Group Central Embassy New large scale super luxury shopping mall under construction located next to Central Chidlom, will open in late 2013.
Central Festival Phuket Central Festival Phuket opened on 9 September 2004, located in Phuket Town, Thailand. It is the largest shopping mall in Phuket and has total retail space of 120,000 square meters
Robinson Lifestyle Centre Robinson Lifestyle Centre is a new medium size mall concept of Central Retail Corporation. A typical size of the new concept will have a retail space of around 30,000 square metres, with 20,000 net leasable area. First mall opened in November 2011, in Trang, other branches are in Suphanburi, Kanchanaburi. And 6 branches are under construction in Sakon Nakhon, Surin, Saraburi, Prachinburi, Chachoengsao and Roi Et, will open in 2013-2014.
Central Central stores are positioned as an upper-market chain. It has 8 stores in Bangkok, 6 branches in upcountry with Pathum Thani, Chaengwattana (Pak Kret, Nonthaburi), Chiang Mai, Hat Yai, Pattaya and Phuket, and 3 branches in China with Hangzhou, Shenyang and Chengdu; has 4 more planned for new branches will be open between 2013-2014, in Chiang Mai, Hat Yai, Samui, Grand Indonesia (Jakarta, Indonesia).
Robinson The Robinson department store chain was established in 1979 and was merged with Central in 1995. The company has branches in Bangkok, Nonthaburi, Chiang Mai, Hat Yai, Phuket, Patong Beach, Nakhon Si Thammarat, Ayutthaya, Ratchaburi, Sri Racha, Chanthaburi, Udonthani, Ubon Ratchathani, Chonburi, Khon Kaen, Trang, Chiang Rai, Phitsanulok, Rama IX in Bangkok, Surat Thani, Lampang and Kanchanaburi.
ZEN (department store) The upmarket Zen department store chain was established in 1990 with its first branch as one of the anchors of the World Trade Center in Pathum Wan district, Bangkok.
La Rinascente On May 27, 2011 Central Retail bought a 100% stake of the 150-year-old store firm for 260 million euros.
Illum At Denmark, Central Retail took over a 120-year-old retailing business on March 12, 2013, Illum.
DISTRIBUTION La Rinascente •
11 stores
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Main Italian cities
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Historical places, central locations
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Flagship: Milan store
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The major chain of luxury malls in Italy
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Only physical stores
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Close/Late Follower format, a variety of brands doesn’t build strong image identification
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Due to the market repositioning (also getting rid of capillarity) the filial stores in Bari, Bergamo, Grugliasco, Lodi, Naples and Milan (Viale Certosa) were closed
COMMUNICATION La Rinascente portfolio includes all the possible means of communication. From the beginning until nowadays the company has collaborated with artists, actors etc. in order to create memorable attractive campaigns. The store constantly uses all the possible tools of communication:
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In-store campaigns
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Shop windows’ decorations
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Social and press media campaigns
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Special offers
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Sales communications
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Contests
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Special packaging
POSITIONING #1 department store and luxury retailer in Italy (the flagship in Milan)
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La Rinascente delivers a huge variety of different merchandise in apparel, jewellery, accessories, cosmetics, household and office goods, food, toys and others. It is a provider of best-quality goods and services. La Rinascente also provides such services as wedding registry, gift packagings, sewing repairs and alterations, hairstylists, make up artists and personal shoppers.
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From contemporary and niche designers to classic brands
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From sneakers to haute couture shoes
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La Rinascente targets a high affluent group of customers, but the store contains several departments affordable for the ones with less spending power (e.g. Design Market, Sneakers and Jeans departments)
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103 Euros - average receipt price Other stores of the group
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Have a variety big enough for the cities they are situated in
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Represent the monopoly in luxury department stores scale
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Even though they do not reach the top international level, they satisfy the requirements of their shoppers Changes in the positioning since the acquisition by Central Retail Group The goal to position the chain, the flagship store in Milan particularly, at the level of the international department stores Developing the «luxe» image by improving the lounge spaces and merchandise representation
AREA • • • • • • • • •
Vittorio Emanuele Avenue, main central street of Milan, the city of fashion and shopping Connects Piazza Duomo with Piazza San Babila Pedestrian area The ideal place for shopping and window shopping. Arcades of fashion shops, big stores, bars, cinemas and libraries. Mainly clothes shops, but also books and media Several sophisticated label shops (Max Mara, Moreschi, Bruno Magli and Pollini) Popular labels such as H&M, Zara and Mango Low to medium pricing with more or less fashion-oriented content
SHOPPERS AND FREQUENTERS
Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Piazza Duomo are the first places tourists go to when they visit Milan. This district is always overcrowded with international and italian visitors. Milanese people also frequent a lot these places since it has a huge selection of different products with different pricing. Many retailers own their biggest points of sale in Corso Vittorio Emanuele, e.g., Zara, H&M, Max & Co., Bershka, Mondadori, etc. The variety and prices attract contribute a lot of purchases and frequenters easily become shoppers. It is different to the luxury shopping district with the main street Montenapoleone. It has become another touristy place, a monument of high-end fashion of MIlan with top brands and their particular and expensive expositions of goods. People go there to enjoy window shopping and the atmosphere of exclusivity. Much smaller part of frequenters shop in this case.
SHOPPERS AND FREQUENTERS La Rinascente La Rinascente case is different: the exclusivity is mixed with affordable small goods for house and souvenirs. Being mentioned in every tourist guide, it is daily frequented by a lot of people who pass by just to have a look and buy a souvenir. The design supermarket apparently is the most over-crowded place in the store. Milanese people come here as well: there are useful gadgets and accessories, many goods which can be bought as a gift. La Rinascente is a must-spot for shopping tours: people from different parts of the world visit Milan attracted by comparatively cheaper luxury goods of different categories. This group is among the heavy-shoppers; Italians living in Milan would probably go to their favourite boutiques or walk in Montenapoleone street. Instead for international tourists it is a perfect solution: all the possible brands in one place, divided in departments. The store has an amazing terrace with panoramic view on Duomo cathedral. In the evening La Rinascente is frequented not only with a purpose of buying something, but having an aperitif in one of the most beautiful places in Milan.
TARGET ANALYSIS La Rinascente strategy is targeting people of different genders, ages, nationalities, lifestyles, preferences and occupations. They have higher then medium to high spending power. The groups can be formed in a different way (which are obviously mixed and combined in real life) : • • • • • • • •
Young innovators Gilded youth Young professionals Generation X, family people Mature elite Nouveau riche Career builders Relaxed declining years The cafes, cosmetics and ground department, as well as Santa Radegonda building have lower pricing that enlarges the estimated target. As it is mentioned before, the receipt is very low in comparison to the average prices of goods, 103 €. Meaning that even though La Rinascente strategy is aimed towards luxury brand image and associations, the store generates more profits on low-priced items. The purchase value and the conversion rate remain high thanks to all the frequenters and tourists passing by the store every day. La Rinascente has been focused on the international customers from East, Far East and America recently. The groups mentioned above can be perfectly applied for this broad target.
INNOVATORS
Age
24-38
Gender
male and female
Residence
developed countries, capitals and major cities
Marital status
not married
Occupation
students/career in a design, fashion, engineering, art fields
Education
bachelor/master degrees
Average income (per month)
financed by parents/1900-3800 €
Ways of transportation
public transportation/ motorcycle/ convenient city car
Interests
Their occupation field is their biggest interest; innovations and technology, creativity, news, digital magazines, sports, friends, cinematography, music, travelling
Favourite brands
Maison Martin Margiela, Alexander Wang, Givenchy, Kenzo, Christopher Kane, C’N’C’, McQ, Surface to Air, Cheap Monday, Nike,Vans, Zara
Brand Loyalty
low
Purchase behaviour
Enjoy shopping in different stores, but they do not rush to buy things. Expect personnel to know as much as they do. See the store as a place not only to shop, but also find out trends, curious about things.
Expectations from the brand and products
Contemporary, innovativ, self-ecpressing and particular designs. Reasonable quality-price relation, attractive surroundings and visual merchandising, good customer service, the brand awareness is of low importance
Price sensitivity
medium to high
Purchase rate
Used to purchase in small quantities frequently
Locations of shopping
Different: from vintage markets to high-end department stores. Shop online as well. Do not usually take shopping trips, but shop when they are abroad
GILDED YOUTH
Age
18-25
Gender
male and female
Residence
developed countries, capitals and major cities
Marital status
not married
Occupation
students
Education
bachelor/master degrees
Average income (per month)
financed by affluent parents
Ways of transportation
personal cars/ cars with drivers/ taxi/ rarely public transportation
Interests
Shopping, parties, fashion, brands, friends, cinema, music, gossip, travelling, fitness, beauty, food
Favourite brands
Chloe, Chanel (accessories), Stella McCartney, Dsquared, Iceberg, Juicy Couture, Just Cavalli, Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Moschino Cheap and Chic,Versus Versace, Paul Smith, Dirk Bikkembergs, Philipp Plein, Calvin Klein
Brand Loyalty
medium
Purchase behaviour
Love shopping; rely on trends, brand iconic and popular items, spend hours in the stores with friends; do not require an advanced knowledge from personnel, though respect and positive communication are a must
Expectations from the brand and products
Fashion-forward, particular and memorable, products. High-end sophisticated atmosphere in the store; attractive exposition of goods; clothes are their objects of interests and conversations, they are an essential element of every happening in their lives; it has to be a well-known brand, trendy design or a product with a story behind; price-quality relation is not very much important
Price sensitivity
low
Purchase rate
High
Locations of shopping
Luxury department and concept stores, sophisticated boutiques; online; specialty stores; shop\ travelling around the world
YOUNG PROFESSIONALS
Age
27-35
Gender
male-majority, female
Residence
biggest capitals around the world
Marital status
not married/just married
Occupation
good position, successful prospects in financial, economical, marketing, web fields
Education
bachelor, master degrees
Average income (per month)
2200-4800 â‚Ź
Ways of transportation
public transportation/ motorcycle/ city car
Interests
Career building, news, Internet, reading, cinema
Favourite brands
Hugo Boss, Roger David, Austen Brothers, DKNY, Polo Ralph Lauren, Lacoste, Massimo Dutti
Brand Loyalty
medium to high
Purchase behaviour
Rarely go shopping, do not spend a lot of time in the store; go for their favourite brands, but do not deny some new solutions, therefore good service of a shop assistant is recommended
Expectations from the brand and products
Affordable for their income brands, different types of product categories sold in one store. High quality of products responding to their demands; comfortable simple interior and atmosphere; friendly and responsive personnel; business or casual clothes that can be used in different occasions; durability
Price sensitivity
medium
Purchase rate
Low
Locations of shopping
Specialized boutiques, luxury department stores
GENERATION X
Age
42-58
Gender
male and female
Residence
everywhere: cities, smaller towns, outside big cities, developed villages; big apartments or family houses
Marital status
married, with children
Occupation
senior position (men), part-time/full-time not very stressful job/housewives (women)
Education
bachelor, master degrees
Average income (per month)
5000-4800 â‚Ź
Ways of transportation
family car/ car with a personal driver
Interests
Family, career, friends, parents, outdoors activities, reading, sports, cinema, arts, travelling, housekeeping, cooking
Favourite brands
Ralph Lauren, Tommy hilfinger, Max Mara, Armani, Gucci, Donna Karan, Louis Vuitton (accessories), Ermenegildo Zegna,Vanessa Bruno
Brand Loyalty
medium to high
Purchase behaviour
Shopping as an entertainment for the whole family; shop in the department stores and malls, where they find everything they need and relax having a meal; require comfortable atmosphere and welcoming staff
Expectations from the brand and products
High quality of products responding to their demands; comfortable simple interior and atmosphere; friendly and responsive personnel; business or casual clothes that can be used in different occasions; variety of different merchandise, clothes that can suit different occasions
Price sensitivity
low
Purchase rate
purchase in big amounts, but not very often
Locations of shopping
Luxury department stores or shopping disctricts
MATURE ELITE
Age
48-60
Gender
male and female
Residence
mix: appartments in the cities and country houses
Marital status
married with children
Occupation
senior position, pensioner with stable economic situation,own business
Education
bachelor, master degrees
Average income (per month)
2200-4800 â‚Ź
Ways of transportation
city car/ car with a personal driver/ taxi
Interests
leisure activities, acquaintances and friends, cocktail parties, shopping, family, travelling, cars, housekeeping, interior decorations, food, fashionable sports and activities (yoga, pilates, golf, yachting etc.), reading, press, news, health
Favourite brands
Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Brioni, Ermenegildo Zegna,Yves Saint Laurent, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Missoni, Bottega Veneta
Brand Loyalty
high
Purchase behaviour
Frequent shoppers, enjoy shopping, clothes have big importance for them, identifying their status and personal style
Expectations from the brand and products
High quality products, elegance and fashion mix; exclusivity in everything: the store, interior, service, packaging etc. Brand is a part of their lifestyle. Specialization is important (a suit from Brioni,Valentino dress, Hermes bag, Manolo Blanhik shoes etc.)
Price sensitivity
low
Purchase rate
high
Locations of shopping
Luxury department stores, boutiques, shopping districts, shop abroad
CAREER BUILDERS
Age
38-55
Gender
male-majority, female
Residence
biggest capitals around the world
Marital status
married
Occupation Education
next generation of ÂŤyoung professionalsÂť, senior position in in financial, economical, marketing, web fields bachelor, master degrees
Average income (per month)
7200-15000 â‚Ź
Ways of transportation
city car/ taxi/ a car with a personal driver
Interests
Career building, news, Internet, reading, cinema, family, sports, health
Favourite brands
Kiton, Brioni, Ermenegildo Zegna, Prada, Tom Ford, Etro, Brunello Cucinelli, Corneliani, Armani
Brand Loyalty
high
Purchase behaviour
Rarely go shopping, go for their favourite brands; they are not frequent shoppers, shopping is more a need for them, a need to maintain their level and perfect look
Expectations from the brand and products
Clothes that stand for the level they reached; perfect quality and suiting. High-end tailrong brands, a mix of traditions and style
Price sensitivity
low
Purchase rate
rare but big purchases
Locations of shopping
Mono- and multibrand boutiques, specialty stores, department stores
NOUVEAU RICHE
Age
30-60
Gender
male and female
Residence
mix: appartments in the cities and country houses
Marital status
married
Occupation
own successful business, senior positions
Education
bachelor/bachelor+master degrees
Average income (per month)
10000-...â‚Ź
Ways of transportation
personal car/ taxi/ car with a driver
Interests
Career building, family, news, Internet, technology, leisure activities, cocktail parties, shopping, travelling, cars, housekeeping, interior decorations, food, sports
Favourite brands
Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Celine, Bottega Veneta, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Brioni, Armani,Versace, Roberto Cavalli, Balenciaga, etc.
Brand Loyalty
high
Purchase behaviour
Purchase in big amounts frequently; because of the high taxes and therefore prices in their native countries take shopping trips to Europe; shop in multibrand boutiques and stores; compose a big percentage of customers in huge department stores, such as La Rinascente
Expectations from the brand and products
High fashion content and best customer service; quality and style identifying their level; different products for different occasions; logo-mania. Popularity of the brand is important; it has to be recognisable and well-known.
Price sensitivity
medium
Purchase rate
Low
Locations of shopping
Big luxury department stores, boutiques. Shop abroad frequently. Take shopping trips.
RELAXED DECLINING YEARS
Age
63-...
Gender
male and female
Residence
big family houses outside the cities, in the country- or seaside
Marital status
married with children
Occupation
pensioners with high means disposal/ own business working for them and regulated by their children
Education
bachelor degree
Average income (per month)
-
Ways of transportation
car with a personal driver/ taxi
Interests
Family, leisure and outdoor activities, elite sports, reading, news, gardening and interior, cooking
Favourite brands
Loro Piana, Malo, Hogan, Ralph Lauren, Brunello Cucinelli, Kiton, Brioni
Brand Loyalty
high
Purchase behaviour
Go shopping very rarely; shop together with their family; require relaxed and calm atmosphere, attentive and understanding personnel; appretiate details: packaging, after-purchase service;
Expectations from the brand and products
High quality, durable products. comfort, best materials. Heritage, tailoring traditions are origins of products and the brand are important.
Price sensitivity
low (if the products respond to their requirements
Purchase rate
Low to medium
Locations of shopping
Small specialised boutiques, they have their favourite mono- and multibrand stores
•
Central location
•
Dimensions: surface area of 52,584 sqm and an authorised sales surface of 23,419 sqm
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Wide variety of merchandise enabling to reach all customer groups
•
Variety of services
•
Each floor dedicated to a certain merchandise and target group therefore
•
Clear customer path visual merchandising
COMPETITORS
EXCELSIOR Excelsior as well as La Rinascente is situated in the centre of MIlan close to Duomo. Galleria del corso, 4, which is a street next to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II leads from Piazza Duomo to Piazza San Babila. It is situated in a historical building of the 19th century, which was used to be a cinema. Excelsior is a conceptual department store, a mix of two point of sale formats. It is an extraordinarly designed area (by Jean Nouvel) of about 4000 sqm. Placed on seven stories, it offers particular and high-end apparel, accessories, jewelry and beauty products as well as selective "fine food" (sold in an exclusive supermarket and served in a bar and a restaurant). The ground floor has a vast deaprtment with mixed merchandise: from perfumes to iphone covers,-Laduree, VAlextra luggage and TIffany corners. The second (men’s) and third (women’s) floors are curated by revered Milanese boutique owner – and Excelsior Artistic Director – Antonia Giacinti. The top floor contains women’s accessories (also chosen by Giacinti) and a Manolo Blahnik shop-in-shop. All the merchandise is highly selected in order to maintain the innovative brand image and attract fashion forward customers. Excelsior belongs to the retail Coin's Group that reported that this store makes part of their strategy: targeting a more fashion-oriented and affluent clientelle. Excelsior has a more defined style and targeting then La Rinascente. Apparently, it generates less sales due to a more «hidden» allocation and a smaller target group. Though it also has a lot of frequenters and sudden shoppers who generate a big part of sales. Excelsior doesn’t have any other points of sale appart from Milan location.
TIFANNY&CO
COMPTOIR SUD PACIFIQUE
HELMUT LANG
LADURÉE
COOLA
RAG & BONE
AVEDA
COSTUME NATIONAL
THEORY
LE CAVEAU
COUTO
MARC BY MARC JACOBS
PUNTO OTIICO
COWSHED
HAUTE HIPPIE
OLFATTORIO
CREED
BORSALINO
ACAMPORA
CULTI
FALIERO SARTI
ACQUA DI STRESA
CZECH & SPEAKE
ALMALA
AGONIST
DURANCE
PORTOLANO
ALICE & PETER
E.COUDRAY
ANTIPAST
ANDREA MAACK PARFUMS
EAU D'ITALIE
RED SOCKS
ANNE MARIE BORLIND
EIGHT & BOB
RODA
ANTIPODES
ETAT LIBRE D'ORANGE
SCARABEO D'ORO
AR 457
ETRO
V73
ARMANI
FLORIS
HANKY PANKY
ATELIER COLOGNE
FRAPIN
BEAUTY FOR REAL
HIERBAS DE IBIZA
BECCA
HISTOIRES DE PARFUMS
BIEHL
HONORE' DE PRES
BLOOD CONCEPT
HOUBIGANT PARIS
BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS
HUITIEME ARTHUMIECKI & GRAEF
BOIS 1920
INEKE
BOND N°9
JANE IREDALE - MINERAL
BONHEUR POUR LA MAISON
COSMETICS
BRONNLEY
JULIETTE HAS A GUN
BYREDO
KAMA AYURVEDA
CALÈ FRAGRANZE
KNIZE
CARNER BARCELONA
KOJU 1575
CARTHUSIA
LABORATORIO OLFATTIVO
COMPAGNIE DE PROVENCE
COMME DES GARCONS
BALMAIN
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
DRIES VAN NOTEN
GIVENCHY
MANOLO BLAHNIK
GIVENCHY
VALENTINO
JIMMY CHOO
KENZO
EDWIN
CHLOE'
PIERRE HARDY
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
PRPS
PROENZA SCHOULER
ZANOTTI
RICK OWENS
GILDED AGE
KENZO
SERGIO ROSSI
MARNI
LEVI'S
ISABEL MARANT
GIANVITO ROSSI
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
Z ZEGNA
ERDEM
ISABEL MARANT
BALMAIN
TONELLO
HAIDER ACKERMANN
REPETTO
NEIL BARRETT
NIKE
JOSEPH
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
JIL SANDER
GIORGIO BRATO
NIKE GYAKUSOU
EACH X OTHER
MAISON MICHEL
VALENTINO
ACNE
GOLDEN GOOSE
THEYSKENS THEORY
SHINE
GIVENCHY
VISVIM
ADIDAS
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
SINGLESEASON
PROENZA SCHOULER
ASPESI
ADIDAS BY KAZUKI
RICK OWENS
THE FIRST THE BEST THE
KENZO
NIGEL CABOURN
DIADORA
DRIES VAN NOTEN
LAST
CHLOÉ
NANAMICA
CAR SHOE
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
WILD FOX
MARC BY MARC JACOBS
BARBOUR BY TOKITO
CASTANER
TROVATA
ZOE KARSSEN
MARNI
YMC
CHURCH'S
GIORGIO BRATO
SUPERFINE
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
WOOLRICH WOOLEN MILLS
BE POSITIVE
SEMI COUTURE
TEMPTATION
RICK OWENS
JOHNBULL
SEBAGO
EMMA COOK
THAKOON
FORTE FORTE
BAND OF OUTSIDERS
SPERRY TOP SEIDER
M MISSONI
SIMEON FARRAR
HTC
SALVATORE PICCOLO
ALAIN TWENTY NINE
FORTE FORTE
SIBEL SARAL
K JAQUES
FINAMORE
BROOKLYN WE GO HARD
BOY BAND OF OUTSIDERS
DR. MARTENS
MACKINTOSH
HTC
CAMILLA AND MARC
CHURCH'S
MASSIMO PIOMBO
JAMES PERSE
CURRENT ELLIOT
BALENCIAGA JEWERLY
HAVERSACK
JOHN SMEDLEY
HUDSON
JET SET
JOSEPH
LEVI'S MADE & CRAFTED
CLOSED
K-WAY
JOE' JEANS
DEPARTMENT 5
IRO
MSGM
JAMES PERSE
MISSONI
JET SET
MOSCHINO
15 ½ FIFTEEN AND HALF
GALERIES LAFAYETTE Galeries Lafayette is a famous department store in the centre of Paris, founded a few decades after La Rinascente, at the end of the 19th century. Every year millions of tourists and French people visit this historical shopping palace. Ten-storey shop is situated in a marvelous building with art nouveau decorations and offers a huge assortment. Galeries Lafayette belongs to Groupe Galeries Lafayette which also owns Nouvelles Galeries, Bazar de l’Hotel de Ville, Monoprix, Prisunic, Lafayette Gourmet, Cofinoga and e-LaSer. Different from La RInascente, Galeries Lafayette was always the innovator in the past years: opening of the highest escalator in Europe (1951), Organisation of the “Festival de la création française” [French design festival] and a prize-giving ceremony to reward “good taste at good value for money, compared to ugliness at a higher price", a manifesto for the democratisation of design, at the heart of the company’s vocation.(1954),Galeries Lafayette creates “Festival de la Mode” [Fashion festival] (1980) etc. The flagship store is situated in Paris, at 40, boulevard Haussmann, in the IXe arrondissement.
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The first opening of a series of many new locations in France and abroad was in Nice, in 1916. Berlin store, constructed between 1991 and 1995, was opened in 1996 on Friedrichstraße. The store was designed by Jean Nouvel who worked on Excelsior as well.
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The group made a licensing agreement to open a store in Morocco Mall, Casablanca, in 2010.
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A Lafayette location opened in Trump Tower in New York City in September 1991. It was unsuccessful, and closed after three years.
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A Galeries Lafayette store opened in Dubai Mall on 18 May 2009.
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Galeries Lafayette opens their first store in South East Asia in the summer of 2013 at the Pacific Place Mall.
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E-commerce is available on the official website
A Absolument Maison Absorba Achile Adidas Adidas Originals Agatha Agnelle Agnes B. Air France By Le Tanneur Aix & Terra Ally Capellino American Retro Ancien Accessoire Parisien Andy Warhol By Angelina April First Aridza Bross Armani Jeans Armani Junior Armor-Lux Arrow Art Of Soule Artemide Arthur Et Aston Asmodee Aster Atelier Du Vin Aubade Avant Premiere Azzaro Azzaro Silver
B Banana Moon Bandai Barbapapa Barbara Rihl Barons De Rothschild Beka Ben Sherman Bensimon Beracamy Best Mountain Bikini Bar Billecart-Salmon Biscuiterie Mercier Bloch Bodum Brabantia Braun
Bric's Briefing Brigitte Bardot Brio Buki Burberry Burberry Beauty Burlington
C C Petula C.Oui Cadet Rousselle Café-Tasse Calor Calvin Klein Calvin Klein Jeans Calvin Klein Shirt Calvin Klein Underwear Camper Canada Goose Carla Carla For Michalak Cartier Casio Catimini Cerruti 1881 Chantelle Chapon Charles Heidsieck Chaumet Cheap Monday Cheet London Chef Et Sommelier Chevignon Chipie Christian Lacroix Château D'Estoublon Château De Pibarnon Château Lagrezette Château Les Valentines Cipriani Clio Blue Clyda Compagnia Dell'Arabica Comptoir De Belle Île En Mer Comptoirs Et Compagnies Comtesse Du Barry Confiserie Heidel Converse Corolle Cosabella
Coup De Coeur Crayola Cristel
D D&G Dammann Frères Dci Dd Ddp Deglon Delamotte Delsey Denim & Supply Ralph Lauren Derhy Desigual Didier Guillemain Diesel Dim Dkny Dkny Intimates Dockers Dodo Dom Pérignon Domaine André Et Mireille Tissot Domaine Huet Domaine Serge Dagueneau Et Filles Domaine Zind Humbrecht Donkey Products Dopff & Irion Dot-Drops Doucal'S Doudou Et Compagnie Dr Martens Drouault Dsquared2 Dujardin Dyson
E Edc By Esprit Eden Eden Park Edmond Fallot Elevenparis Elizabeth Stuart Elodie Cohen Eminence Emporio Armani
Epicerie Lion Epilady Eric Bur Esprit Esprit. Euroflex Europann Exact
F Facom Faconnable Falke Falksalt Fauchon Fil A Fil Fisher Price Fossier Fossil Franklin & Marshall Fred Fred Perry Furla
G G-Star Gaastra Galeries Lafayette Cachemire Galeries Lafayette Paris Gant Gc Geoworld Geox Gerard Darel Giochi Preziosi Godiva Gragnano Guess Guess by Marciano Cruise Gérard Bertrand
H Hackett London Happy Horse Harris Wilson Hasbro Havaianas Hediard Hello Kitty Hilfiger Denim Histoire D'Ours
Hom Hoptimist Hugo Boss Huit
I Ice-Watch Ikks Il Boschetto Impetus Inoui Inouïtoosh Instyler Invotis Izzue
J J Brand Janod Japan Rags Jb Martin Jodhpur Jodhpur Week-End Joe'S Jeans John Galliano Jonak Jott Juicy Couture Jules Destrooper Jump Junior Gaultier
K Kaloo Kaporal Kaporal Jeans Karis Karl Lagerfeld Keds Kenwood Kenzo Kenzo Kids Kesslord Kickers Kid'S Graffiti Kipling Kitchenaid Kothai Krups Kusmi Tea Kyocera
L La Ferme Au Chocolat La Maison D'Armorine La Perla La Trinquelinette Lafayette Accessoires Lafayette Argent Lafayette Beaute Lafayette Collection Lafayette Homme Lafayette Maison Lagostina Lamarthe Lancaster Laurastar Lauren Ralph Lauren Laurent-Perrier Le Cabas Vanessa Bruno Le Coq Sportif Le Creuset Le Palais Des Thés Le Tanneur Le Temps Des Cerises Le Temps Des Cerises. Lee Lego Leonardi Les 2 Marmottes Les Gourmandises De Sophie Levi'S Lili Gaufrette Lipault Lirio By Philips Little Marcel Liu Jo Livia Monte Carlo Louis Pion Paris Ltb Løv Organic
M M By Monderer Magimix Maille Maison de la Truffe Maison Scotch Maison Taillefer Maisto Majorette Mama'S & Papa'S
Manas Marc By Marc Jacobs Marco Serussi Marina Rinaldi Mariner Mark'S Europe Martinelli Mastrad Mattel Mauviel Maxim'S Mazet De Montargis McGregor Mcs Meadrine Meccano Megableu Mellow Yellow Meltin Pot Merc Of London Meregalli France Michael Kors Michel Herbelin Mila Louise Miss Ap Mod8 Modelco Molly Bracken Monbana Monderer Design Monin Monsieur Jean Yves Mood By Me Morellato Morgan Mosuno Motus Et Bouche Cousue Moulin Roty Moulinex Moët Et Chandon Muno My Lovely Jeans Mysuelly Mywalit Mère Poulard
N Nat Et Nin Nathalie Falmet New Man Nextime Nickel
Nicolas Alziari Nikko Noukie'S Nutella
O Ober Oliviers & Co One Step Opex Original Sylvanian Families Oxbow
P Paquetage Pare Gabia Passionata Pastelle Paul & Joe Sister Paul Smith Pepe Jeans Perchè Ci Credo Petit Jour Paris Peugeot Philippe Gonet Philips Picard Pierre Cardin Pierre Clarence Pierre Lannier Playskool Police Polo Ralph Lauren Pomarium Pommery Provence d’Antan Pulsar Puma Pura Lopez Pyrenex Pâtes Fabre
Q Quai Sud Quiksilver
R Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren Blue Label Ralph Lauren Childrenswear Ravensburger
Ray Ban Red Soul Redskins Reebok Repetto Replay Revol Rica Lewis Ritz Escoffier Roncato Rowenta Royalties Rue Princesse Rykiel Enfant Ryon
S S.T. Dupont Sablon Sabrina Samsonite Santoni Savor & Sens Schott Scooter Scotch And Soda Scrapcooking Screwpull Sdesuc Seafolly Seb See By Chloe See U Soon Seidensticker Seletti Sentosphere Sequoia Sessun Silverlit Simone Perele Sinfulcolors Smalto Smoby Soehnle Sofrie Addex Design Sophie M Souledge Sous Les Paves Spinning Hat Stansbury Co Staub Stella Cadente
Stella Cadente Pour Rosy Studiomakeup Sud Express Suncoo Sur le Sentier des Bergers Swarovski
T Taittinger Ted Lapidus Teddy Smith Tefal The East India Company The Kooples The Kooples Sport The North Face Thierry Mugler Timberland Tintamar Tommy Hilfiger Triumph Trussardi
U Ugg Australia Uttam Boutique
V Vacuvin Valrhona Vax Version Originale Veuve Clicquot Vilac Vivienne Westwood Volcom Vranken Pommery Monopole Vtech
W Winning Moves Wonderbra Wowwee Wrangler Wwf Wwf Anna Club Plush
Y Yoyo Yumi
Z Zadig & Voltaire Zazazou Zoe Tee'S
123 1789 Cala 18crr81 Cerruti 7 For All Mankind
TREND ANALYSIS
NAVY
Dark, intense and classic, next season navy blue is the new black. Made famous by the British Royal Navy, the dark blue adapted itself into the world of fashion and appears as next winter's standout color. Head-to-toe, as seen at Céline and Chloé, or as a heavy, men's coat like those seen at Dries Van Noten and Jil Sander. From left to right: Dries Van Noten, Chloé and Céline Also seen at Hermès, Nina Ricci, Calvin Klein, Paul & Joe
EXOTIC FURS
The must-have fur coat for next winter comes straight from the wild in-pop colors with disco and grunge flares. As if they were dipped in fluorescent paints and bleached in acid, furs goes two-tone and tricolor, and blacks change to neon yellow and hot pink as brown turns red or green, changing the style codes of urban sophisticates and their classic furs. From left to right: Roberto Cavalli, Fendi et Versace Also seen at Gucci, Kenzo, Vionnet, Jeremy Scott
TWEED
This wool fabric excels in elegance next season and reinvents itself in various forms. Under the legendary influence of Coco Chanel, who feminized the typically masculine fabric, designers created looks in the carded, flexible material at Chanel, Haider Ackermann and Dolce & Gabbana. From left to right: Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana and Haider Ackermann Also seen at Lanvin, Emanuel Ungaro, Rag & Bone
TARTAN
From red checks, to green, blue and black plaid, this season the clan beckons as everything from the traditional to the modern appeared printed with Scottish tartan. Grunge at Saint Laurent and masculine at CĂŠline and Stella McCartney, a hint at how designers gave the kilt fabric their own inspirational twist. From left ot right: Stella McCartney, CĂŠline and Saint Laurent Seen also at Louis Vuitton, Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dolce Gabbana,Versace
NIGHT OWL
Typically a couture embellishment, the ostrich feather appeared for Fall/Winter 2013-2014 in a ready-to-wear version. Soft and light, it punctuated each silhouette with elegance and grace, adding luxury to gowns and separates alike. From left to right: Dries Van Noten, Gucci,and Vivienne Westwood Also seen at Oscar de la Renta, Louis Vuitton, Proenza Schoulder, Erdem
LEATHERY HEIGHTS
As seen at Chanel, Emilio Pucci, Céline, Balmain, H&M and Zadig & Voltaire, leather -coated legs in thigh-high boots and slick stockings is one of the essential trends for Fall/Winter 2013 - 2014. Suede folk versions appeared at Emilio Pucci and Balmain, while a smooth leather was like a second skin at Céline, but it was at Chanel where soft leather stuck to legs as a type of stocking tucked into boots, Karl Lagerfeld explained backstage at the Chanel Fall/Winter 2013-2014 show. From left to right: Balmain, Chanel and Emilio Pucci Also seen at: Céline, Donna Karan, Zadig et Voltaire
GRUNGE
This season, studied dishevelment is back as designers reinvented the non-conformist vibe of the ‘80s grunge scene. Take a hint of punk, add a little rock, mix in some heavy metal and you’ll have the deliberately grungy appeal of the looks that hit the runway. Studded leather, mesh stockings and plaid shirts felt made us feel as if we had stepped into the wardrobes of Courtney Love and Blondie circa 1989, but only with an added couture feel. This fashion revival is the ultimate in laid-back, rebellious style. From left to right: Emilio Pucci, Rodarte and Saint Laurent Seen also at Vivienne Westwood, Haider Ackermann, Zadig & Voltaire
ECRU
A reliable, instant pick-me-up, white invites itself into customers wardrobes each winter and this year is no exception. It arrives bearing gifts ina soft, reassuring cream tint, as seen at Isabel Marant, Valentino and CĂŠline. From left to right: Valentino, Isabel Marant and CĂŠline Also seen at: Stella McCartney, Elie Saab, Mugler, Nina Ricci
YOUTHFUL PRINTS
With girly hearts, frivolous stars and even childhood characters like Bambi, designers have certainly made a playful stamp on next season. The youthful trend was contrasted with transparency and patent leather at Burberry Porsum, a grunge charm at Yves Saint Laurent and midnight black at Givenchy. From left to right: Saint Laurent, Burberry Prorsum and Givenchy Also seen at: Hermès, Lanvin, Kenzo, Paul & Joe
OVERSIZED SHOULDERS
For his first show as Balenciaga's Creative Director, Alexander Wang presented coats and shortened jackets with large, rounded shoulders in homage to the oversized cuts from the era of Cristobal Balenciaga, founder of the celebrated fashion house established in the 1930s. The look carefully softens strict winter silhouettes, also seen on the Proenza Schouler and Gucci catwalks. From left to right: Gucci, Proenza Schouler and Balenciaga Also seen at: Givenchy, Carven, Alexander Wang, Kenzo
BEAUTY OF THE DAY
Fur on bare skin, sheer, lingerie details and vinyl trench coats make up the tarnished wardrobes of the 2013 bourgeoisie. The look brings to mind Catherine Deneuve's character in the film Beauty of the Day, directed by French filmmaker Luis Bu単uel, who captured a time when clothes themselves could embody insatiable desires. From left to right: Marc Jacobs, Burberry Prorsum and Prada Also seen at: Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Versace, Rag & Bone
TOMBOY
With a retro touch and an air of nonchalance, the feminine-masculine look for next winter seems to have been influenced by Gavroche from Les Misérables. The menswear influences took center stage at many shows for Fall/Winter 2013-2014.At Giorgio Armani blazers without sleeves were worn over velvet high-waisted pants, and at Ralph Lauren Magdalena Frackowiak sported a black cap worn to the side, an oversized blouse under a men's style vest, and pants tucked into boots. The trend was also see at Comme des Garçons where a retro suit was folded, pleated and transformed into an homage to the great Anna Piaggi. From left to right: Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren and Comme des Garçons
MOHAIR
One of the driving fibers for next winter, this fur alternative with its soft blur gives a certain serenity to every silhouette, smoothing contours and surrounding the body in a stylish haze. When worked in volumes as seen at Alexander Wang and Emporio Armani, its feather weight composition helps avoid creating overly heavy shapes. At Balmain, mohair was paired over shiny pants, playing with the contrast between the creamy, soft tops and lacquered pants. From left to right: Alexander Wang, Balmain and Emporio Armani Also seen at CĂŠline, Louis Vuitton, Sonia Rykiel, Anthony Vaccarello
METALLIC MESH
Seen at Anthony Vaccarello, ChloĂŠ and Paco Rabbanne, a medieval trend for next season has developed, featuring armor-inspired mesh pieces. Far from weighing down the look, however, this mesh delicately dresses the chest, hips and legs, hiding parts of the female body, yet subtly revealing others, elusively hinting at nudity. From left to right: ChloĂŠ, Anthony Vaccarello and Paco Rabanne
1940S
1940s icons Lauren Bacall, Ingrid Bergman, Veronica Lake and Katherine Hepburn were honored in the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 collections, especially those shown in Milan. Honing soft shoulders, nipped waists, rounded hips and lowered necklines, designers emulated the hourglass silhouette on their runways, and proved its eternally seductive power. From left to right: Prada, Bottega Veneta and Gucci Also seen at: Christian Dior, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera
POWDER PINK COATS
A poetic breeze floated through the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 collections. As designers used vibrant colors for their dresses and pants, their coats hit the runways in softer, delicate colors like powder pink. Sweet and angelic, the English Rose hues transport us to a world of romance and whimsy for next season. From left to right: Christian Dior, Miu Miu and Carven Also seen at Chanel, Mulberry, Nina Ricci, Rodarte
LEATHER HEAD-TO-TOE
When it comes to leather and skins for next season, head-to-toe crocodile is the way to go. Next winter tames this wildly luxurious trend and succumbs to its seductive style. Wear crocodile leather in its natural form, as seen at Hermès and Prada, or in creamy pastels like the croco seen at Louis Vuitton. From left to right: Louis Vuitton, Prada and Hermès Also seen at: Burberry Prorsum, Jean Paul Gaultier, Diane von Furstenberg
TAILORING
Next winter will see girls stealing their boyfriends' suits, and quite possibly their fathers' as well as oversized and pin-striped versions hit the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 runways. While mafia inspirations wereseen at Stella McCartney and Yohji Yamamoto, Maison Martin Margiela also picked up the trend with suits reminiscent of the those worn in The Great Gatsby by F. Scott Fitzgerald. From left to right: Yohji Yamamoto, Stella McCartney and Maison Martin Margiela Also seen at: Ralph Lauren,Vivienne Westwood, Emanuel Ungaro
CAMOUFLAGE
It seemed to be a fad the last season, but for the winter clothes it has been tranformed into a more evening and luxury interpretations. Inspired by the army's rigour, silhouettes are stricter and designs feature the military's famous camouflage print in various forms. The fashion pack saw it in fur at Michael Kors, silver and purple at at Christopher Kane and crackled at Alexander Wang. From left to right: Michael Kors, Alexander Wang and Christopher Kane
SAILOR BOY
The fashion set pledges itself to the Marine cause in navy blue and reefer jackets for Fall/Winter 2013-2014, and accessorizes with the iconic Marine uniform cap for those winter months spent island hopping and soaking up some sun on the yacht deck. From left to right: H&M, Ralph Lauren and Emilio Pucci
GLOBAL TRENDS AND LA RINASCENTE STRATEGY
MEGA TRENDS «New money» & BRIC countries Sean Brodrick writes:The term "nouveau riche," or "new money," refers to people who, through rapid acquisition of wealth, now have the ability to buy things that were previously out of their reach. In the U.S., it applies to individuals. But in Asia, it applies to entire nations . This interesting trends brings up incredible investment opportunities in European countries, especially France and Italy, specialized in apparel and tailoring. There are now 18,000 centa-millionaires in the region covering South-East Asia, China and Japan. This is more than North America, which has 17,000, and Western Europe with 14,000. By 2016, Ledbury Research expects that this region will have extended its lead, with 26,000 centamillionaires, compared with 21,000 in North America and 15,000 in Western Europe. On a country-by-country basis, the US will still dominate in 2016, with 17,100 centa-millionaires, but China will be catching up fast with numbers set to double from current levels to 14,000. Just looking at the wealthiest in some emerging markets, you can see the sectors where they are generating their wealth include natural resources, manufacturing or construction. Western economies are flatlining (not that you need to be reminded). Meanwhile, amongst the BRIC nations, business is booming. Brazil, Russia, India and China are home to 42% of the world’s population – and that percentage is growing daily. Their economies are growing too, and rapidly: by 2050 some are predicting that these 4 economies will be the world’s biggest. Rapidly growing economies with rapidly growing populations: it’s a perfect scenario for businesses.
TRENDS That bring tourists to shop to Europe 1. The hunt for value: People are still buying watches, clothing and handbags. What’s different is that because of the global crisis now they are looking at the price tag, and finding it more than worth their while to shop well beyond the usual retail suspects. Now people concern buying goods with high values in the countries of origins with a lower price, therefore ensuring themselves that they are authetic and saving money. 2. The desire for the exceptional: With luxury purchases becoming more deliberate, consumers expect more from luxury.They want more made-to-order products and more services tailored to their needs. About 30 percent of Americans, Europeans, and Japanese say they are most likely to pay full price for an item that is classic – and more than half of Chinese, perhaps because they are less likely to have such items in the house already. While most people are searching for sales, some luxury consumers are going in the other direction. They see more expensive products, especially the kinds of things that can never be bought on discount, as more valuable and a good “lasting” investment (not an indulgence). In China, for example, more than half of luxury good buyers also told us the more expensive the product, the better they consider its quality. 3. The search for meaning::growing awareness and desire for responsible consumption. Many consumers purchasing luxury goods think it is distasteful to show them off or feel guilty about these purchases (over 40% of consumers in US and Europe, and over half of luxury consumers in China). Customers appreciate a tradition or a story behind a product: it makes them feel more particular.
«NOUVEAU RICHE» INFLUENCED TREND DIRECTION Already identifiable as one of the most influential of the trends for the season, the theme not only represents a recognisable shift in underlying lifestyle, economic, political and design aesthetics, but also a trend direction that has instant appeal and commercial success written throughout. The return of luxury and the emergence of new more affluent economies has resulted in a softening of the more austere luxury codes of recent years and the introduction of an opulence that has a real sense of modernity. Colour: Focussing on soft buttery metallics as the base tones and pops of modern jewel colours to provide the accents, both elements are equally important for providing this essential modern luxury colour palette. Carried through both mens & womenswear, metallics can be of varying intensity, sheen and colours, whilst darker tones seen within digital & foil prints to provide additional playful trompe l'oeil touches, whereas a softer modern palette are omnipresent across the whole theme and prevent it looking too ostentatious. Return to Luxury: One of the most important references and long term impacts is the 'return to luxury' after several years of austere tones and sense of hardship. For fashion this is epitomised through a soft palette with jewel brights and modern yet luxurious fabrics & embellishments combined with simple silhouettes to provide a more directional look. Emerging Economies: As identified in ‘Guide to the Season’ for this trend direction it is no longer possible just to assume that because it’s British or Western that people from the emerging economies will want to buy it. So from advertising campaigns, to catwalk shows, to the original design influences, a new East rather than West aesthetic runs throughout. Younger Undertones: Despite this direction being instantly identifiable as an easy to adapt and commercially strong theme, it is important to note that the reason it looks so fresh is because of all of its younger and more directional undertones. So from all-in-one playsuits and clutch bags for men to notched-up metallics that has not been seen since Seventies, this theme has a striking sense of modernity throughout.
Reported a record turnover of 462 million euro in 2012 5,75 % increase compared to 2011 Double-digit performance from the main store in Milan (sales increased by 10%) PLANS:
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Elevate the store globally and make it well-known in Asia
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10% more space to its store in Milan
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14,500 m2 store in Rome is due to open by Spring 2015
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A further store is scheduled to open in Venice
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Expected the takeover to break even within eight years
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No changes in the management team
Central Retail Group strategy is based on the following trends: •
The new rich target group (Chinese, Russian, Japanese customers), based on Global Blue statistics, switzerland company specialised in tax refund
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Italy as their major shopping destination
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The main groups of customers using tax free options are Chinese (17% ) and russians (15%)
In 2010 every tourist in Europe spent on average in tax free purchases: 1.
Chinese: 744 €
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US tourist: 554 €
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Japanese: 521 €
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Russian: 368 € Which in countries famous for shopping tours (Italy, France) achieved the average of 1300 € per tourist
THE GAP •
The brands in La Rinascente fit one to another and all together offer quite a complete selection of clothes, acessories, jewellery, beauty products and many others for well-being and house keeping.
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The store successfully reaches all the customer’s groups and continuous to elove their strategy towards the «nouveau riches» target.
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One big gap of the store is their young-oriented zone, the building in Santa Radegonda. The company has to concentrate more attention and capital there, invest in the interior and fixtures (which do reach the level o the international department stores). The selection of brands has to be based on the nowadays interests and trends among the younger generation. It also has to be promoted and announced to the clients.
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Further to this an important offer missing in the store is the eveningwear and «new designers» departments. La Rinascente aims to achieve an international target with big spending power representing the most important, famous brands as well as the trend-setting particular designers on the nowadays fashion scale. «New designers» divisions are probably a better choice for concept and extraordinary multibrand stores that have fashion-forward and trend-setting customers as a main target group. Since Central Retail Group announced their focus on «nouveau riches» the eveningwear department would be a defenitely interesting proposal for them. Even though Italians do not have such a big tradition of wearing the evening gowns, special ceremonies definitely need specific garments. Plus, a big number of affluent customers from Eastern countries and USA have a trend of travelling to Europe in a search of clothes for special occasions.
SELECTION •
The section will be opened with 5 brands.
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Marchesa, Elie Saab, Vera Wang, Herve Leger by Max Azria and Jenny Packham
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Each brand follows the upcoming trends, this season they are divided in 3 directions: boyish (like tomboy, tailoring and oversized shoulders), street (obviously grunge, youthful prints, camouflage, exotic fur which can look stylish worn with street and casual garments) and refined elegance (1940s, powder, metallic, navy, night owl etc.). Apparently only the last category can fit the sector off evening wear, where feminninity is the characterising aspect.
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The selected brands represent different clasters of target, remaining on high-level and proposing from exclusive to more affordable garments. This mix also achieves different style and taste preferences: classical gowns from Marchesa, most feminnine Elie Saab, oriental Vera Wang, seductive Herve Leger and graceful Jenny Packham.
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Marchesa and Jenny Packham do not design the pre-fall collections therefore it will not be included, only the main ones. The same for Vera Wang and Elie Saab, whose Prefall collections are something between day and evening, which does not match the section proposals. Only a few dresses from Elie Saab show and Herve Leger will be included in the buying orders.
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The brands will be arranged and re-combined after the analysis in the end of the season.
3rd FLOOR
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Classic and casual womenswear
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Prestigious and luxurous shoe department
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Multibrands area: 120%lino, Liviana Conti, Lacoste, Trussardi Jeans, Pure DKNY, DKNY, Comptoir des Cotonniers, Tommy Hilfinger, Marina Yachting
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Corners: Gerard Darel, Seventy, Fay, Burberry, Rarlph Lauren Blue, Escada, Versace Collection, Class Roberto Cavalli, Armani Collezzioni, Max Mara Studio
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Since it is the first floor representing womenswear customers get to, all the female target of La Rinascente passes by here. The big advantage of the allocation is that frequenters and curious tourists entering the store as a «must-visit» do not usually go up until here. Therefore the personnel can pay more attention and work with the actual target.
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Appart from the shoe department which gathers all the brands offering female footwear in La Rinascente, the clothes department has an older target then the other departments. The general style of the brands represented here is classical, casual and contemporary, nothing extravagant or street. «Mature Elite» is a main target of this department. Evening wear though can target different groups together, here the division by age is more important (e.g., gilded elite and nouveau riche girls would probably buy the same type of dress for their graduation party). It also can exist as a separate department, like shoes, without fitting into the target and merchandise selection of the 3rd floor. As it was mentioned all the target groups pass by here, searching for shoes or getting upstairs, therefore the traffic of this floor is very high. This can guarantee the visibility of new department.
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The mature target explains a variety of sizing: from XS to XXL (in knitwear and t-shirts), from 38 to 48-50 (other)
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Mixed buying: basics and simple casual items (that are a big part of merchandise in a mixed area) are bought in depth, with different colours available; whereas more fashionable items (in corners of Versace, Roberto Cavalli etc.) represent buying concept in breadth
ESCADA
RALPH LAUREN blue label
BURBERRY
VERSACE COLLECTION
SEVENTY CASH DESK
CASH DESK
CLASS ROBERTO CAVALLI
FAY
GERARD DAREL
ARMANI COLLEZIONI MAX MARA STUDIO CASH DESK
SHOE DEPARTMENT
The evening wear section is supposed to be allocated in front of the shoe department, which is perfect if a customer needs to complete the outfit, and right close to Gerard Darel corner. The desposition all together will be visible from the escalator, bright and attractive for people passing by. The selection of brands will include the main international designers specialised in eveningwear and accessories, like Zac Posen, Marchesa, Badgley Mischka, Naeem Khan,Monique Lhuillier, Roland Mouret, J. Mendel, Dean Quinn, Azzaro, David Koma, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Elie Saab, Herve Leger, Jenny Packham, Matthew Williamson, Dina BarEl, Zuhair Murad, Basix Black Label None of this brands have been represented before in La Rinascente.
MARCHESA
INFORMATION Founded in 2004 by British fashion designers Georgina Chapman (wife of Hollywood producer Harvey Weinstein) and Keren Craig, the Marchesa label is a luxury brand inspired by the eccentric Italian socialite Marchesa Luisa Casati’s mantra of a person “being a living work of art”. Marchesa is best known for its red carpet worthy evening gowns, with their signature vintage meets Asian style that combines intricate details such as embroidery, beaded embellishments and prints. Among the stylish celebrity fans of the brand are Jennifer Lopez, Anne Hathaway, Sienna Miller and Eva Longoria. Recently, Marchesa launched Marchesa Notte a sister brand that offers affordable casual clothes.
Marchesa (couture) Notte by Marchesa (diffusion) Marchesa Bridal
Marchesa recently launched a handbag line, Wedding dresses and partnered with Lenox to launch dinnerware. Most recently Marchesa has collaborated with Le Métier de Beauté to bring a cosmetics line to the masses featuring the palettes of designers Chapman & Craig. •
• •
• •
Marchesa was featured on the cover of Vogue magazine's September issue, the same issue was the subject of the 2009 documentary The September Issue starring Anna Wintour. Marchesa's Georgina Chapman recently appeared in an episode of Gossip Girl with Blake Lively. Marchesa was also featured on the front cover of the New York Times during New York Fall Fashion Week on February 19, 2010. Marchesa also designed the wedding dress of Nicole Richie who married Joel Madden in December 2010 Marchesa also designed Lebanese singer Elissa's dress for the World Music Awards 2010 in Monaco.
MARKETING MIX AND POSITIONING Marchesa price range •
ready-to-wear starts from 1900 €
•
couture starts from 4000 € and can go up to 14000 € for an evening gown and 20000 € for a wedding dress
•
Notte by Marchesa price range starts from 680 € and can go up to 2000 €.
Marchesa does not have any stand alone boutiques and does not offer e-commerce on its website; however, the selling channels for Marchesa first and second line include both high end retailers in United States and 34 other countries internationally and online retailers. Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman in United States, Harrods and Harvey Nichols in London, Vakko in Turkey, Boutique 1 and Harvey Nichols in Dubai, Podium in Russia, Alothman in Kuwait, Holt Renfrew in Canada, Lane Crawford and Joyce Boutique in Hong Kong and Villa Moda in both Kuwait and Bahrain to name few; online high end retailers that carry Marchesa include Net-a-Porter, Neiman Marcus, Shopbop, Saks Fifth Avenue and Harrods among others which offer international shipping for more than 170 countries worldwide. Marchesa does not advertise nor does it create photo or video ad campaigns, instead its main promotional tool is the coverage of high profile celebrities wearing Marchesa designs at high profile gala and red-carpet events like the Oscars, Golden Globes, Grammy Awards, Met Gala and etc to spread the word. Marchesa has positioned itself as a high end couture brand that specializes in creating utmost feminine and glamorous evening wear with exceptionally unique embroideries. One of the major differentiating factors of Marchesa creations is their unique signature embroidered/crystallized fabrics. Celebrities wearing Marchesa designs have repeatedly been listed as the best dressed of high profile events and Marchesa has become a favorite among celebrities and critics alike.
FW 2013-2014 Mood/Style: An Eighteenth century style and, in particular, the "painting of Maria Teresa of Vallabriga on horseback" signed by Francisco Goya, inspired the creations of an opulent, refined, and romantic collection. The dresses are a jubilation of volumes, drapery, and flounces that are embellished with golden, floral and regal embroidery. The silhouettes bare the shoulders and exalt feminine shapes, also exploiting transparencies and the luminous reflections of the fabrics Lengths: midi and maxi Colours: vermilion, powder, gold, black, white, cement, pearl grey, bordeaux, violet, fuchsia Fabrics: satin, taffeta, silk, chiffon, organza, tulle, shantung Shapes: hourglass, tapered, with overlapping flounces, mermaid, corolla, draped Accessories: sandals with ankle-straps, embroidered pumps with ankle-straps, stiff purses with appliquĂŠs
ELIE SAAB
INFORMATION Born in Lebanon, Elie Saab is a self taught fashion talent – and in my view, a fashion genius. Sometimes known as “ES”, Saab launched his Beirut-based fashion label when he was 18 years old. Of course he has workshops in Milan and Paris, but his main workshop remains in Beirut. ES became an overnight success after he became the first Lebanese designer to dress an Oscar winner. The historical award winner Halle Berry became the first African-American to win the Best Actress award. She won for her role as Leticia Musgrove in Monster’s Ball. Berry wore a burgundy gown by Saab to the 2002 Academy Awards and wore the gown the way only Halle Berry could. Besides being an established designer for royalty – Queen Rania of Jordan and Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana of Thailand, just to name a couple – the celebrity list he’s dressed includes from the A-LIST celebs like: Amanda Seyfried, Angelina Jolie, Anna Kendrick and of course the newly acclaimed Empress of the World Beyoncé. In 2010, Saab dressed 102 international celebrities for key global events, up from 40 in 2009. The figure for 2011 up until March was 88. His creations can be found all over the world, with boutiques located in Beirut, Paris and London. Elie Saab has 60 retail outlets all over the world. His designs are sold in 22 countries. In 2011, Elie Saab launched his first fragrance "Le Parfum" which became an overnight bestseller in 15 countries, including the UAE. Haute Couture Ready-to-wear Wedding line (with Elie by Elie Saab diffusion line) Accessories Perfume and Beauty Line (Le Perfum) Always on the move, Elie Saab’s style is a unique fusion of western and eastern cultures, renewing itself with each and every collection. He prefers materials such as yaffeta, organza, sable and satin paired with more fluid and light fabrics for aerial effect or fine materials like embroideries that highlight a feminine silhouette.
MARKETING MIX AND POSITIONING Elie Saab price range •
ready-to-wear starts from 1800 €
•
couture starts from 7600 € and can go up to 20000 € and more for personalized dresses. This items can not be found sold online
•
wedding dresses start from 6000€. Elie by Elie Saab is a more affordable line
•
accessories price range starts from 570 € (casual shoes) and can go up to 7900 € (crocodile bag)
•
beauty products start from 27 € (body lotion) and goes up to 85 € (perfume) Two couture collections, Pre-Fall, Restort and two main collections each year. The FW 2013-2014 is expected to be out after the resort of 2014. Company sells their products via DOS, Concessions, Franshicing and Licensing contracts. The flagship stpre is situated in Dubai Mall. The brand is not present in department stores, what is still in the company’s plans Based on Haute Couture and entering the yacht, hotels, etc. fields of their affluent target, clearly defines brand’s positioning as a luxury high-end company.
FW 2013-2014 Mood/Style: An Eighteenth century style and, in particular, the "painting of Maria Teresa of Vallabriga on horseback" signed by Francisco Goya, inspired the creations of an opulent, refined, and romantic collection. The dresses are a jubilation of volumes, drapery, and flounces that are embellished with golden, floral and regal embroidery. The silhouettes bare the shoulders and exalt feminine shapes, also exploiting transparencies and the luminous reflections of the fabrics This season, Elie Saab reined in the sparkle to deliver some of the season's best red carpet looks and — surprsingly — best daywear. Done, with the exception of some yellow pieces, in a dark monochrome palette, stand-outs included draped fitted tops, pencil skirts paired with paneled cropped jackets, a cocktail dress with a full skirt and trim trousers. For eveningwear, the designer was at his best when he used sheer fabrics as his base for embellished looks, opening up his collection to a whole new, more youthful demographic. Lengths: midi and maxi Colours: pure yellow, burgundy purple, navy blue, aquamarine blue, black monochrome palette Fabrics: satin, taffeta, silk, wool, viscose, tulle, coloured fur Shapes: fitted and shaped to the body, round skirts,maxi dresses with steaming skirts Accessories: laced-up boots, sandals with straps, shoes with ankle straps, clutches, doctor bags
VERA WANG
INFORMATION Vera Ellen Wang (born June 27, 1949) is known for her wide range of haute couture bridesmaid gowns and wedding gown collections, as well as for her clientele of elite ladies figure skaters, designing dresses for competitions and exhibitions. Vera Ellen Wang was born and raised in New York City, and is of Chinese descent. Her parents were born in Shanghai, China, and came to the United States in the mid-1940s. She graduated from The Chapin School in 1967, attended the University of Paris and earned a degree in art history from Sarah Lawrence College. Wang began figure skating at the age of six and competed at the 1968 U.S. Figure Skating Championships. When she failed to make the US Olympics team, she entered the fashion industry. Beginning in 1970, Wang was a senior fashion editor for Vogue but left Vogue after being turned down for the editor-inchief position currently filled by Anna Wintour and joined Ralph Lauren as a design director for two years. In 1990, she opened her own design salon in the Carlyle Hotel in New York that features her trademark bridal gowns. She has since opened bridal boutiques in New York, London, Tokyo and Sydney, Australia. By balancing modern designs with traditional elegance, Wang has acquired a large following, particularly in Hollywood. Her fashions are frequently worn to film premieres and award ceremonies by a number of high-profile actresses, including Halle Berry, Goldie Hawn, Charlize Theron, Anjelica Huston, and Meg Ryan. In 2001, Wang launched her first fragrance and published a highly anticipated wedding guide. Over the years her business has continued to grow. It now includes lingerie, jewelry, and products for the home. In 2006, Wang reached a deal with Kohl's, a chain of department stores, to produce a less expensive line of ready-to-wear clothing exclusively for them called Simply Vera.
MARKETING MIX AND POSITIONING Ready-to-Wear collection Bridal (with diffusion line of bridal dresses White) Simply Vera (sold exclusively by Kohl’s) Lavender Label (2008-2009) Accessories Fragrance Jewelry: Vera Wang Love Eyewear Houseware collection and Crystal Collection Vera Wang is one of a few brands positioning diffusion lines at such low prices. Her style is maintained throughout all the dicisions she works on. Nevertheless, pricing achieves a huge range of spending possibilities: from mass market targets till most affluent women in the world ordering and customizing their wedding dresses.
Vera Wang price range •
Ready-to-wear starts from 490 € goes up to 1900 €
•
Bridal starts from 4000 € and go up to 9000 €; for White line 1400€ - 2000€
•
Simply Vera price range starts from 18 € and can go up to 170 €
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Jewellery collection from 1200€ up to 18000€
FW 2013-2014 Mood/style: “It was time to go back to showing what we’re capable of, which is real construction,” said Vera Wang backstage after her fall runway show at Lincoln Center on Tuesday morning. “We used quality fabrics and techniques to create a certain volume and shape; all of these things suddenly felt very new to me.” “Back” also referred to a time in period dress where bustles (revisited as amplified peplums) and grandiose robes (seen here as diaphanous, elongated jackets) were the order of the day. But despite loosely traveling back in time, Wang’s vision came across as strikingly forward looking. “The attitude has to be now,” she said. Lengths: Mini, midi and maxi Colours: graphic color-blocking of black, grey shades and graphite beige; textures with magenta, lilac and tangerine jacquards Fabrics: silk, chiffon, satin, fur, wool, viscose, sequins Shapes: oversize trapeze volumes, clear hourglass and tulip volumes, sculptural shapes of colour-blocked dresses, relaxed pants Accessories: suede beige and leather black shoes and boots with a wide strap on tha ankle; gloves of the same colours until the shoulders
JENNY PACKHAM
INFORMATION Jenny Packham (born 11 March 1965) is a British fashion designer known primarily for her bridal gowns and ready-towear collections. Packham studied Fashion at Southampton Solent University before graduating with a First Class Honours degree from Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design. In November 2008, she was awarded an Honorary Doctorate degree from Southampton Solent University, in her home city of Southampton. The Jenny Packham label was founded in 1988 designing bridal dresses and evening wear. In 2008 Packham started a range of Bridal accessories to accompany her gowns. In 2010-11 Packham introduced a lingerie range and a ready-towear accessories range. In 2013 the Jenny Packham brand will celebrate its 25th Anniversary. Packham used to show in London. However, from September 2010 she has shown at New York Fashion Week with celebrities like Mandy Moore, Emma Roberts and Dita Von Teese in attendance. Packham's clients include Angelina Jolie, Dita Von Teese, Miley Cyrus, Kate Hudson, Florence Welch, Jennifer Aniston, Eva Longoria, Reese Witherspoon, Kate Winslet, Cameron Diaz, Jennifer Lopez and The Duchess of Cambridge. Packham has designed items for the James Bond movies Die Another Day and Casino Royale. Packham worked with Academy Award nominated Patricia Field, regularly dressing Kim Catrall in Sex and the City series and the movie. Packham also worked with Field when the latter styled her A/W 2007 collection in Milan. Packham's dresses have also been used in the episodes "Goodbye, Columbia", "The Jewel of Denial" and "Gone Maybe Gone" of Gossip Girl. Ready-to-Wear Bridal gowns and Accessories Accessories
MARKETING MIX AND POSITIONING
Jenny Packham designs high-end special occasion gowns which can be described with one word as «graceful». Her dresses, even though they can not be marked trend-setting and fashion forward, received very few critics from press. They transform the whole image into something royal. The target here is not very much clear: the dresses can be worn by women of different ages, what is similar to Oscar de la Renta. They are more affordable then Elie Saab and Marchesa gowns but still belong to luxury segment. The brand has 4 boutiques for each product category, 3 in London and 1 in Paris.
Jenny Packham price range •
Ready-to-wear starts from 370 € (for tops) goes up to 4200 € (for exclusive dresses)
•
Accessories are from 180€ up to 1200€
FW 2013-2014 Mood/Style: Jenny Packham is known for her scintillating red carpet gowns, and brought many show stopping creations to the forefront for Fall 2013. The intellectual salons of 17th century Paris were her inspiration, particularly the rich tones and hues of the era. Cinnamon, midnight blues, scarlet, lilac, and opulent opals were seen on knee and floor length cocktails, cropped tops worn with matching ankle length pants, and dazzling overcoats. Models with slow gaits flaunted floor length dresses, peppered with sequins, beads, and embellishments. Tulle overlays on A-line frocks slightly masked the brilliance of stone encrusted bodices; mesh covered cut outs and any suggestions of flesh. A few noteworthy looks: an embellished black turtleneck dress, with beads dotting the side, a silk emerald gown with a high slit, and the conclusion: a frothy mint green dress, finished in delicious tulle Lengths: floor length gowns, knee and below the knee cocktails, ankle skimming trousers Colors: mauve, gold, scarlet red, blush, nude, black, opal, emerald green, lilac, burch, midnight blues Fabrics: silk, chiffon, tulle, mesh Shapes: A line maxi skirts, cropped tops with cropped pants, scoop necks, hourglass shapes Accessories: nude and black Christian Louboutin sling backs, stone encrusted bracelets, compact clutches finished with stones, delicate hair ribbons, cocktail rings
BUYING CONCEPT AND ASSORTMENT PLANNING
•
Herve Leger is excluded from the initial assortment: its style is not coherent with the other brands
•
Ready-to-wear and Several Couture items
•
Breadth: diversity in SKUs (products are unique and exclusive)
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Importance: Fashion content and style
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Items representative for the brand
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Reduced sizing chart (items are expensive and can not be sold in all sizes)
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Eveningwear brands work with classical embellishments, fabrics and colours. It does not follow the RTW trends. Whereas Elie Saab and Vera Wang sometimes apply trend colours and textures, Marchesa and Jenny Packham are more classical and follow the traditions, like tailoring brands.
•
Some brands proposed more summerish outfits, which will be not included into the order (the target is not only mediterranian customers)
•
The collection is based on the most iconic and traditional for the brands items and motives as well as trends based on the research of the demographics of the target.
•
Remarkable, feminnine, recognisable, elegant and unique
FALL WINTER 2013-2014 •
The section sizing, buying concept and assortment do not match the rest of the department: its a corner with different purpose and a more varied target.
•
Themes and styles matching the «special occasion» direction of the section
•
Starting with main collections (Marchesa and Jenny Packham do not design the pre-fall: Vera Wang and Elie Saab ones do not match the occasion of use of the section)
•
Planning by brand: best-sellers, iconic motives
•
Inside the brand: planning by materials and colours
•
Mainly core products, main category-dresses without complementary: customers visit this section with a specific aim/need
•
Iconic colours and fits of the brand, as well as classical «evening» colours: black, beige, red, white
•
Different price range: from exclusive (Marchesa and Elie Saab Couture) to more affordable (Vera Wang)
•
Reduced size range: expensive and particular items, therefore the size has to correspond to the fit
•
Many SKUs: these brands usually manufacture garments in one colour/material since they are not easy to sell
•
Covering different directions inside one style and occasion of use: very special Marchesa, more seductive Elie Saab, oriental Vera Wang and royal and elegant Jenny Packham
•
Accessories from Elie Saab and Marchesa: evening shoes and clutches which can be mixed and matched with many garments inside the collection and with other brands as well
INDEPENDENT ASSORTMENT PLANNING
FOCUS ON SPECIAL OCCASION
PLANNING BY BRAND
MAIN COLLECTIONS
MATERIALS AND COLOURS CORE PRODUCTS
ICONIC
BESTSELLERS
EXCLUSIVITY
DIVERSITY
1 item per 1 SKU
REDUCED SIZINGS
DIVERSE PRICE RANGE AFFORDABLE
CLASSIC
EXCLUSIVE ICONIC
ROYAL
STYLE ELEGANT
ORIENTAL SEDUCTIVE
ICONIC ITEMS •
The four brands selected do not have any acknowledged iconic products.
•
Elie Saaab have been producing the same types of bags for a couple of seasons, that will probably evolve into the iconic ones in the future.
•
There are still symbolic patterns and colours for these brands that have become a recognisable signature and are must buys for all seasons.
Marchesa
Red, Burgundy and Black Colours Baroque motives
Elie Saab
Round middle-length skirts Embroideries overlaying lace Maxi wrap skirts
Elie Saab
Designs of bags are repeated each season with slight changes
Jenny Packham
Shaping crystals aplique Tight maxi dresses with scales lengthwise
HEROES Heroes can influence on buying decisions for eveningwear in terms of colours, though the pattern which are in trend do not have importance fore eveningwear brands
TOTAL LOOKS: Gray, Ivory, Black Shades of Navy and Blue
Latte 101
Oxford blue 111
Antique White 102
Midnight blue 110
Powder blue 106
Black 500
Gray 105
Persian blue 109
TREND ITEMS
Navy
Elie Saab Jenny Packham
Night owl
Marchesa Elie Saab
Night owl
Vera Wang
Ecru
Elie Saab Jenny Packham
Metallic Mesh
Jenny Packham Vera Wang
1940S
Marchesa Elie Saab
1940S
Elie Saab
1940S
Vera Wang Jenny Packham
BUDGET ALLOCATION
Fall/Winter CALENDAR NY
PARIS
LA RINASCENTE DELIVERIES
FEBRUARY
MARCH
JUNE
PARIS
LA RINASCENTE (COUTURE deliveries)
LA RINASCENTE
JULY
SEPTEMBER
DECEMBER
JANUARY
FEBRUARY
MARCH
LA RINASCENTE LA RINASCENTE LA RINASCENTE (Sales -30%) (Sales -50%)
VERA WANG
12
2nd quarter
evaluation of perfomances
5
5
evaluation of the season
JENNY PACKHAM
12
2nd quarter
evaluation of perfomances
5
5
evaluation of the season
MARCHESA
13
2nd quarter
evaluation of perfomances
5
5
evaluation of the season
End of month
evaluation of perfomances
5
5
evaluation of the season
evaluation of perfomances
5
5
evaluation of the season
ELIE SAAB
COUTURE
6
1st quarter
2-3 quarter
TOTAL SELL-IN 241284 € 104804 €
44420 €
42700 €
41360 €
8000 €
ELIE SAAB
JENNY PACKHAM
VERA WANG
MARCHESA
OTB (ELIE SAAB HC)
3,3 % 17,1 % 43,4 % 17,7 %
18,4 %
The budget is divided in 5 parts: 4 ready-to-wear collections 1 OTB which is planned to be spent on 2 dresses from the upcoming Elie Saab Haute Couture collection. Reorderings are not planned, since the brands do not propose basics/ carryovers to be delivered, do not accept orders outside the dates of ordering. 1. The main part of the budget is spent on Elie Saab, a very successful brand among the target customers. Its last collection is supposed to deliver good results. Further to this it has a very selective, almost exclusive distribution (and not achievable for Milan) which is a huge plus. The other three brands are presented in smaller amounts: 2. Jenny Packham is less important for Eastern and Asian clientele, though it is an opportunity for the brand to engage more customers through multibrand format and for the section to offer a more elegant look. 3. Vera Wang is a world-famous bridal designer. Her collections are usually less formal. The budget spent represents the smaller amount because of the lower prices and of categories bought: tops, skirts, blouses,- a more «easy» evening look. 4. Marchesa delivers very special occasions gowns which are not the best-sellers. Though it is a brand with their clientele and famous aroud the world for the «red carpet». It is bought in this quantity in order to complete the image and assortment of the section and not fail the seasonal plans.
APPAREL 214324 € 167464 € 10950 € 8140 € DRESSES
TOPS
2,8 3,1
SKIRTS
0,5 1,2 1,4 2,6
7380 € 6800 € 6330 € 3360 € JUMPSUITS BLOUSES
PANTS
TROUSERS
2800 € 1100 € JACKETS
3,4 4,5
69,4
MANTELET
The focus of the assortment planning is the occasion of use: eveningwear. Therefore the main part of the budget goes to dresses (almost 70%). Jenny Packham and Marchesa have few garments from a different product category, but can be matched with other brands and fit in the assortment. Marchesa has been bought in 1-2 different sizes per 1 SKU in order to cover the range and stay inside the planned budget. Jenny Packham sleeveless fitted garments can not be offered in big sizes. The dresses that can be used by a wider target are bought in a full size range. Vera Wang, as it has been already mentioned, has a more casual approach and represents a wider categories’ selection. Here the buying concept includes many product categories that go as cocktail looks, less formal than other collections in the section. Elie Saab designed many evening dresses which are selected in a wide range for the section. The rest of his products can not be identified neither as cocktail nor as special ceremony garments, but as smart casual which does not fit the section and therefore has not been bought. Tight transparent dresses are bought only in small sizes, for the expensive ones 1 SKU per 1 size, covering the chart, even if it stays in the range of small sizes (DRESS1-38, DRESS2-40...) Fur mantelet and jacket were bought to support the seasonality and luxurity of the department. Coloured fur has not been chosen (Elie Saab) as it can not be matched with the rest of the buying concept.
ACCESSORIES 26960 € 5180 €
21780 €
CLUTCHES
SHOES
2,1
9,0
In order to complete the offer the buying selection also includes footwear and handbags. Marchesa presented very matchable and multi-purpose shoes in classical eveningwear colours. To cover the entire sizings of the most popular colours and materials (black leather and silk) 37-38 sizes have been bought for both types and less popular -one size for each (36-black silk, 36, 5-black leather, etc.) Two clutches were chosen that have the same motif of the Marchesa dresses and can be matched with plain garments from other brands. Elie Saab had a more contemporary offer, both for shoes, boots and clutches, that complete the variety. Again, they can be matched with many items and can attract clients who did not consider shopping in this section.
BUDGET ALLOCATION: BRANDS AND CATEGORIES APPAREL € Brand MARCHESA ELIE SAAB VERA WANG JENNY PACKHAM OTB (Elie Saab Couture) TOTALS
Dresses 25760 76044 15880 41780 8000 167464
Tops
Blouses
Skirts Pants Trousers Jumpsuits Jackets Mantelet
10950
2140 3220 1440
1720 5220 1200
3360 6330
10950
6800
8140
6330
2580 4800
2800 1100
3360
7380
2800
1100
TOTAL € 28340 90864 42700 44420 8000 214324
% of total Sell-in Brand MARCHESA ELIE SAAB VERA WANG JENNY PACKHAM OTB (Elie Saab Couture) TOTALS
Dresses 10,7 31,5 6,6 17,3 3,3 69,4
Tops 0,0 0,0 4,5 0,0 0,0 4,5
Blouses 0,0 0,9 1,3 0,6 0,0 2,8
Skirts Pants Trousers Jumpsuits Jackets Mantelet 0,0 0,7 2,2 0,5 0,0 3,4
0,0 0,0 2,6 0,0 0,0 2,6
0,0 1,4 0,0 0,0 0,0 1,4
1,1 2,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 3,1
0,0 1,2 0,0 0,0 0,0 1,2
0,0 0,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5
APPAREL 11,7 37,7 17,7 18,4 3,3 88,8
BUDGET ALLOCATION: MARCHESA
BUDGET ALLOCATION: ELIE SAAB
BUDGET ALLOCATION: VERA WANG
BUDGET ALLOCATION: JENNY PACKHAM
BUYING SIMULATION
MARCHESA • • • • • • •
Expensive items Small quantity (very special occasion garments) Small size range Different colours and motives Representative for the brand One items of one or similar SKU (due to high prices, specific garments which have similar designs in a product family)Big expenses per each item Main themes and colours of the brand
•
Accessories can be matched with the looks and other brands in the section as well Shoes are very classical and can suit almost every garment in each brand of the section, therefore the size range is wide
•
Need to be represented on separate fixtures, as highly exclusive, fragile and unique.
•
Gray 105
Red 115
Burgundy 117
Versailles
Floral Rococo
Baroque Embroidery
Black 500
Dress M/FW13/D/3/EM2/115 3,200€ 38, 42 Dress M/FW13/D/3/EM2/117 2920 € 38 Dress M/FW13/D/3 /EM2/500 3,320€ 40, 44 Dress M/FW13/D/3 /EM1/105 2360 40 Dress M/FW13/D1/3 /EM1/105 2,480€ 38, 42
Dress M/FW13/D/3/EM3/500 2480 38 Jumpsuit M/FW13/JMS/3/EM3/500 2580 40
Clutch M/FW13/C/3/ EM3/500 980€ 2 Clutch M/FW13/C/3 /EM2/115 800€ 1
Shoes M/FW13/S/3/105 370€ 36,5, 37(2), 38(2), 39 Shoes M/FW13/S/3/115 370€ 37, 38, 39
Shoes M/FW13/S/3/500 370€ 36, 37(2), 37,5, 38(3), 39, 40 Shoes M/FW13/S/9/500 400€ 36,5, 37(3), 37,5, 38(2), 39, 41
ELIE SAAB •
Fit different profiles of target
•
Highlight the feminninity and curves
•
Elaborated embroideries
•
Sizes depend on fits and wearability (Tight to the body are offered in small sizes)
•
Expensive items that have similar shape cover the sizing by offering 1-2 different sizes per each SKU
•
Variety of lengths
•
Seasonal and trendy colours
•
Suitable for bigger sizes
•
Brand’s signature dresses
•
Accessories that can fit many other looks, even of different occasions.
•
More trend- approach of buying: navy, ecru, 40s, «night owl» themes.
•
Iconic fits, like wrapped maxi skirts are bought in a wide range.
Latte 101
Cerulean 108
Midnight blue 110
Black 500
Tulle Embroidery
Embroidery on lace
Plum 121
Dark iris 122
Sequins aplique
Dress ES/FW13/D/35/110122 632 40, 42, 44(2), 46, 48, 50 Blouse ES/FW13/BL/3/110 260 38 (2), 40, 42 Trousers ES/FW13/TR/5/110 215 38, 40(2), 42(2), 44,46, 48 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/110 950€ 38, 40, 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 850 38, 40, 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 700 38, 40, 42(2), 44(2), 46, 48, 50 Blouse ES/FW13/BL/3/108 220 40, 42, 44(2), 46 Skirt ES/FW13/SK/4/108 420 38, 40,42, 44
Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 850 38, 40, 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 700 38, 40, 42(2), 44(2), 46, 48, 50 Blouse ES/FW13/BL/3/108 220 40, 42, 44(2), 46 Skirt ES/FW13/SK/4/108 420 38, 40,42, 44 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/121 700€ 38, 40,(2), 42(2), 44, 46 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/121 1,400€ 40(2), 42(2), 44(2), 46 Dress ES/FW13/D/3 /EM8/121 2,500€ 42
Dress ES/FW13/D/4/101 600€ 38(2), 40,(2), 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/101 2,000€ 38 Fur Jacket ES/FW13/JK/7/500 2800 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/SEQ1/500 40, 44 3480 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/EM8/500 2120 42, 46 Dress ES/FW13/D/34/EM8/500 980€ 38, 40,42(2)
Dress ES/FW13/D/3/SEQ1/500 2100 38, 42
Dress ES/FW13/D/3/SEQ1EM8/5 2,500€ 40, 44 Dress ES/FW13/D1/3/SEQ1/500 960 42, 44, 46
Dress ES/FW13/D/3/500 1600€ 40, 42(2), 44 Jumpsuit ES/FW13/JMS/3/500 1600€ 38, 40, 44
Clutch ES/FW13/C/9/101 310€ 2 Clutch ES/FW13/C/39/110 260€ 3
Clutch ES/FW13/C/9/SEQ1/110 380 2 Clutch ES/FW13/C/10/108 260 1
Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/108 520€ 37, 38 Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/500 520€ 36,5, 37(2), 38(3), 39, 40 Shoes ES/FW13/S/89/500 610 38, 39 Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/101 300€ 36, 37, 38, 38,5, 39 Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/500 300€ 36, 37(2), 37,5, 38(4), 38,5, 39(2), 40
VERA WANG • • •
• • • •
•
Less formal than other brands The brand did not introduce variable colours/material SKUs Many repetative textures, therefore the buying assortment will include just a few representative garments of each Matching items of different product categories Seasonal colours Suitable for bigger sizes The main theme of the season with peony jacquard does not match the target and is not expected to be sold, therefore it is not included in the buying order Trend-approach, no signature brand’s items (Vera Wang doesn’t introduce any in RTW collections).
Antique White 102
Gray 105
Purple 120
Black 500
Crystal scales
Tile sequin scales
Lace ornaments
Lavender 118
Indigo 119
Peony tulle
Matellase’
Shining matellase’
Skirt VW/FW13/SK/3/CRS1/500 760€ 38,(2), 40 Top VW/FW13/T/3/500 300€ 40, 42(2), 44(2), 46, 48 Skirt VW/FW13/SK/3/CRS1/500 270€ 38, 40(2), 42(3), 44 Fur mantelet VW/FW13/M/8/500 1100€ 1 piece Dress VW/FW13/D/3/CRS1/500 980€ 38, 40, 42 Top VW/FW13/T/3/CRS1/500 300 38, 40, 42 Pants VW/FW13/P/3/EM10/500 380 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress VW/FW13/D/3/CRS1/500 600 38, 42
Top VW/FW13/T/4/SEQ3/105500 450 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 Skirt VW/FW13/SK/4/ SEQ3/105500 350 38, 40, 42 Top VW/FW13/T1/4/ SEQ3/105500 300 38(2), 40(2), 42 Top VW/FW13/T/3/CRS1/118 600€ 38(2), 40 (2), 42, 44, 46 Pants VW/FW13/P/3/500 320 € 40, 42,(3) 44(3), 46(2), 48(2) Dress VW/FW13/D/3/KN3/119 880 38, 40(2), 42(2), 44
Dress VW/FW13/D/3/KN2KN3/118119
Blouse VW/FW13/BL/3/ PR3/102500 410€ 38, 40(2), 42, 44 Pants VW/FW13/P/3/KN2/118 430 38, 40, 42 Blouse VW/FW13/BL/3/ PR3/120500 390 38, 40, 42 Dress VW/FW13/D/3/EM9/500 880 38, 40
Jenny Packham • • • • •
•
•
Different types of ceremonies: from graduation to royal events Very feminnine and elegant gowns Colours and fits without seasonality Fitted sleeveless silhoettes do not allow to offer big sizes Gowns that can be worn by consumers of different ages and stylistic preferences The brand has introduced a very broad collection : a lot of colours and motives, 1 garment per 1 SKU Mixed approach: signature dresses of pale colours with shaping crystals applique as well as the items which are supposed to be sold and that are not carrying any specific features of the brand.
Latte 101
Plum 121
Salmon 114
Powder blue 106
Pine green 107
Auburn 116
Oxford blue 111
Black 500
Tile sequins scales
Crystal motives
Sequins scales
Crystal decorations
Crystal covering
Crystal and Sequins decorations
Dress JP/FW13/D/3/114 1100 38, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/SEQ3/114 1270 38, 40 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS4/116 760 40, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D1/3/CRS4/116 1420 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS4/121 800 38, 40, 42, 44
Dress JP/FW13/D/5/CRS3/101 1100 40, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS3/101 1100 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/500 1080 40, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/SEQ2/500 1000 38, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/4/CRS4/500 980 40, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/4/500 880 42, 44, 46
Blouse JP/FW13/BL/3/CRS3/111 360 40, 42, 44, 46 Skirt JP/FW13/SK/3/111 300 40, 42, 44, 46 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/111 960 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRSSEQ/111 1600 40, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/ SEQ2/107 1320 40, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS2/106 1600 40
FORECAST
Elie Saab, Vera Wang and Jenny Packham are the types of gowns that are bought with a purpose if a special ceremony or the Christmas eve coming. Marchesa is a more delicate purchase, very special ceremony, consultation and perfect service are needed. Elie Saab is supposed to remain a best-seller for the Full-price sales: the brand offers the best looks for the events on the Christmas Eve. The main reasonings of biggest sales in th 30%-sales period are the Christmas holidays and an enormous traffic in the store: tourists coming to Italy for the beginning of sales. Elie Saab, Vera Wang and Jenny Packham represent the category of Christmas gowns whereas Marchesa is a more «red carpet brand». Since the main events like Golden Gloes, Berlin FIlm Festival and Oscars happen after the New Year, Marchesa is supposed to be sold better in the period of sales. Accessories, especially Marchesa will contibute the biggest margins since they perfectly fit many outfits and almost every ceremony where the evening gown is needed. Vera Wang has produced a less «evening» collection, it is an experimental decision: try a «cocktail» direction of buying. After evaluation a decision will be taken: if to leave a less formal offer or to focus on red carpet and special occasions. Marchesa is not supposed to have a big percentage of sales in total, since the items are very expensive and if few dresses arre not sold it already mkes a big percentage of total. OTB/Elie Saab couture dresses will probably be sold one during the season and another one during the 50% sales. These are the garments of a high fashion content and are usually sold to the fans of the brand, or fashion-followers who shop during the sales. Special Offers will not be introduced in the section, the occasion of use does not suppose to propose sales outside the traditional calendar
APPENDIX 1: COLOURS INDEX
Latte 101
Pine green 107
Antique White 102
Cerulean 108
French beige 103
Persian blue 109
English lavender 104
Midnight blue 110
Gray 105
Oxford blue 111
Powder blue 106
Black 500
Citrine 112
Lavender 118
Golden poppy 113
Indigo 119
Salmon 114
Purple 120
Red 115
Plum 121
Auburn 116
Dark iris 122
Burgundy 117
APPENDIX 2: CODES INDEX
CODE
TYPOLOGY OF ITEM
B
Bag
BLZ
Blazer
BL
Blouse
C
Clutch
D
Dress
JK
Jacket
JMS
Jumpsuit
M
Mantelet
P
Pants
S
Shoes
SK
Skirt
T
Top
TR
Trousers
CODE
FABRIC
1
Cotton
2
Polyester
3
Silk
4
Viscose
5
Wool
6
Elastane
7
Fur (coloured fox)
8
Fur (mink)
9
Leather
10
Suede
CODE
Type of Embroidery
CODE
Type of Embroidery
EM1
Versailles
CRS1
Crystal Scales
CRS2
Crystal Decorations
CRS3
Crystal Motives
EM3
Baroque embroidery Iconic Floral Rococo
EM4
Oriental flowers
CRS4
Crystal Covering
EM6
Tulle Embroidery
CRSSEQ
Crystal and Sequins decorations
EM7
Thick Embroidery
PR1
Batik
EM8
Embroidery on lace
PR2
Graphite flowers
EM9
Peony Jacquard
PR3
Peony Tulle
EM10
Lace Ornaments
KN1
Herringbone Knits
SEQ1
Sequins Aplique
KN2
Matellase’
SEQ2
Sequins Scales
KN3
Shining Matellase’
SEQ3
Tile Sequins Scales
SEQ4
Sequins Spiralls
EM2
CODE
COLOURS
CODE
COLOURS
100
White
116
Auburn
101
Latte
117
Burgundy
102
Antique White
118
Lavender
103
French Beige
119
Indigo
104
English Lavender
120
Purple
105
Gray
121
Plum
106
Powder Blue
122
Dark Iris
107
Pine Green
500
Black
108
Cerulean
109
Persian Blue
110
Midnight Blue
111
Oxford Blue
112
Citrine
113
Golden Poppy
114
Salmon
115
Red
CODE
COLOURS
CODE
COLOURS
100
White
116
Auburn
101
Latte
117
Burgundy
102
Antique White
118
Lavender
103
French Beige
119
Indigo
104
English Lavender
120
Purple
105
Gray
121
Plum
106
Powder Blue
122
Dark Iris
107
Pine Green
500
Black
108
Cerulean
109
Persian Blue
110
Midnight Blue
111
Oxford Blue
112
Citrine
113
Golden Poppy
114
Salmon
115
Red
PRESENTATION OF THE PROJECT
MEGA TRENDS «New money» & BRIC countries
0
NOW
4500
9000
13500
18000
Western Europe North America China and Japan
Western Europe
BY 2016
North America China and Japan 0
7500
15000
22500
30000
Brazil, Russia, India and China economies will be the world’s biggest by 2050
Rapid acquisition of wealth Ability to buy things Investment opportunities in European countries, Especially France and Italy specialized in apparel and tailoring
Central Retail Group reporting the trends: ‣
The new rich target group (Chinese, Russian, Japanese)
‣
Italy - major shopping destination
‣
Tax free options: Chinese (17% ), Russians (15%)
In 2010 every tourist in Europe spent on tax free purchases: 1. Chinese: 744 € 2. US tourist: 554 € 3. Japanese: 521 € 4. Russian: 368 €
WHY?
In search for value: ‣
high values
‣
countries of origins
‣
authetic
‣
saving money. The desire for the exceptional:
‣
more expectations from luxury
‣
made-to-order products
‣
services tailored to their needs
‣
expensive products = a good “lasting” investment The search for meaning::
‣
desire for responsible consumption
‣
a tradition
‣
a story behind a product
THE GAP
HISTORY LOCATION COMPLETE SELECTION of clothes, acessories, jewellery, beauty products and many others for wellbeing and house keeping. SUCCESSFUL ACHIEVEMENT of target groups
WEAK POINTS: 1.
Young-oriented department
with poor interior, fixtures and bad selection of brands. Lack of promotion and signages in the store. 2.
«New designers» department
A more pioneer concept, nevertheless introduced in many international department stores. 3.
Tailoring
Italian’s most famous tradition could have been developed for mens department. 4.
Eveningwear department
A very big minus of La RInascente: almost every department large scale store has
EVENINGWEAR
Completing the «luxury» puzzle Strategical decision for the group Sollution for clients’ requests Simplifying the personnel work MAJOR INTERNATIONAL EVENINGWEAR BRANDS: Zac Posen, Marchesa, Badgley Mischka, Naeem Khan,Monique Lhuillier, Roland Mouret, J. Mendel, Dean Quinn, Azzaro, David Koma, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Elie Saab, Herve Leger, Jenny Packham, Matthew Williamson, Dina Bar-El, Zuhair Murad, Basix Black Label
•
4 brands
•
Marchesa, Elie Saab, Vera Wang, Jenny Packham
•
Upcoming trends + target trends: luxurious fabrics and embellishments, fresh young sollutions even for the elder targets.
•
Looking spectacular and remarkable.
•
Different clasters of target: age, style preferences and spending power.
•
Classical gowns from Marchesa, feminnine Elie Saab, oriental Vera Wang and graceful Jenny Packham.
3rd FLOOR ESCADA
RALPH LAUREN blue label
BURBERRY
VERSACE COLLECTION
•
Classic and casual womenswear
•
Prestigious shoe department
SEVENTY CASH DESK
CASH DESK
CLASS ROBERTO CAVALLI
FAY
GERARD DAREL
ARMANI COLLEZIONI MAX MARA STUDIO CASH DESK
EVENINGWEAR SECTION
SHOE DEPARTMENT
VISIBLE HIGH TRAFFIC (1st floor dedicated to womenswear) SHOES SECTION (to complete outfit) ATTRACTIVE AND WELCOMING
BRANDS
MARCHESA •
Ready-to-wear 1900 €>
Established in 2004 by Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig Headquarters in New York Best known for red carpet evening gowns Vintage meets Asian style Embroidery, beaded embellishments and prints No stand alone boutiques No e-commerce on its website High end retailers in United States and 34 other countries internationally and online retailers Milan: «Tearose»
ELIE SAAB • •
Ready-to-wear 1800 €> Haute Couture 7600 € - 20000 €
Beirut-based Unique fusion of western and eastern cultures Aerial effect and fine materials highlight a feminine silhouette Exclusive positioning: high demand on haute couture, personalized dresses, entering the yacht and hotel businesses.
Italy: San Remo «Spinnaker» and Capri «Etos Group Italia»
VERA WANG •
Ready-to-wear 490 € - 1900€
Established in New York Best know for Bridal collections and her collaborations with figure skaters Signature style: layering, draping and attention to details Creates a world around the label and gets inspired by her native chinese culture
Diverse positioning: diffusion line pricing 18€-170€, whereas bridal is up to 9000€ Her style is maintained throughout all lines and is available for different clasters of customers. Milan: «Super», piazza San Marco, «Antonella del Brusco» atelier
JENNY PACKHAM •
Ready-to-wear 370 € - 4200€
Established in New York Famous for elegant and feminnine style (recently associated with Kate Middleton, one of its most impostant clients) Airy fabrics, attention to the materials and details Diverse target in terms of age, demographics, elite with refind taste
Selective distribution, operate less stores then the other brands Milan: «Antonella del Brusco» atelier, the only distributr in Italy
BUYING CONCEPT AND ASSORTMENT PLANNING
INDEPENDENT ASSORTMENT PLANNING
FOCUS ON SPECIAL OCCASION
PLANNING BY BRAND
MAIN COLLECTIONS
MATERIALS AND COLOURS CORE PRODUCTS
ICONIC
BESTSELLERS
EXCLUSIVITY
DIVERSITY
1 item per 1 SKU
REDUCED SIZINGS
DIVERSE PRICE RANGE AFFORDABLE
CLASSIC
EXCLUSIVE ICONIC
ROYAL
STYLE ELEGANT
ORIENTAL SEDUCTIVE
ICONIC ITEMS
Marchesa
Red, Burgundy and Black Colours Baroque motives
Elie Saab
Round middle-length skirts Embroideries overlaying lace Maxi wrap skirts
Elie Saab
Designs of bags are repeated each season with slight changes
Jenny Packham
Shaping crystals aplique Tight maxi dresses with scales lengthwise
HEROES TOTAL LOOKS: Gray, Ivory, Black Shades of Navy and Blue
Latte 101
Oxford blue 111
Antique White 102
Midnight blue 110
Powder blue 106
Black 500
Gray 105
Persian blue 109
TREND ITEMS
Navy
Elie Saab Jenny Packham
Night owl
Marchesa Elie Saab
Night owl
Vera Wang
Ecru
Elie Saab Jenny Packham
Metallic Mesh
Jenny Packham Vera Wang
1940S
Marchesa Elie Saab
1940S
Elie Saab
1940S
Vera Wang Jenny Packham
BUDGET ALLOCATION
Fall/Winter CALENDAR NY
PARIS
LA RINASCENTE DELIVERIES
FEBRUARY
MARCH
JUNE
PARIS
LA RINASCENTE (COUTURE deliveries)
LA RINASCENTE
JULY
SEPTEMBER
DECEMBER
JANUARY
FEBRUARY
MARCH
LA RINASCENTE LA RINASCENTE LA RINASCENTE (Sales -30%) (Sales -50%)
VERA WANG
12
2nd quarter
evaluation of perfomances
5
5
evaluation of the season
JENNY PACKHAM
12
2nd quarter
evaluation of perfomances
5
5
evaluation of the season
MARCHESA
13
2nd quarter
evaluation of perfomances
5
5
evaluation of the season
End of month
evaluation of perfomances
5
5
evaluation of the season
evaluation of perfomances
5
5
evaluation of the season
ELIE SAAB
COUTURE
6
1st quarter
2-3 quarter
TOTAL SELL-IN 241284 € 104804 €
44420 €
42700 €
41360 €
8000 €
ELIE SAAB
JENNY PACKHAM
VERA WANG
MARCHESA
OTB (ELIE SAAB HC)
3,3 % 17,1 % 43,4 % 17,7 %
18,4 %
APPAREL 214324 € 167464 € 10950 € 8140 € DRESSES
TOPS
2,8 3,1
SKIRTS
0,5 1,2 1,4 2,6
7380 € 6800 € 6330 € 3360 € JUMPSUITS BLOUSES
PANTS
TROUSERS
2800 € 1100 € JACKETS
3,4 4,5
69,4
MANTELET
ACCESSORIES 26960 € 5180 €
21780 €
CLUTCHES
SHOES
2,1
9,0
BUYING SIMULATION
MARCHESA Gray 105
Red 115
Burgundy 117
Versailles
Floral Rococo
Baroque Embroidery
Black 500
Dress M/FW13/D/3/EM2/115 3,200€ 38, 42 Dress M/FW13/D/3/EM2/117 2920 € 38 Dress M/FW13/D/3 /EM2/500 3,320€ 40, 44 Dress M/FW13/D/3 /EM1/105 2360 40 Dress M/FW13/D1/3 /EM1/105 2,480€ 38, 42
Dress M/FW13/D/3/EM3/500 2480 38 Jumpsuit M/FW13/JMS/3/EM3/500 2580 40
Clutch M/FW13/C/3/ EM3/500 980€ 2 Clutch M/FW13/C/3 /EM2/115 800€ 1
Shoes M/FW13/S/3/105 370€ 36,5, 37(2), 38(2), 39 Shoes M/FW13/S/3/115 370€ 37, 38, 39
Shoes M/FW13/S/3/500 370€ 36, 37(2), 37,5, 38(3), 39, 40 Shoes M/FW13/S/9/500 400€ 36,5, 37(3), 37,5, 38(2), 39, 41
ELIE SAAB Latte 101
Cerulean 108
Midnight blue 110
Black 500
Tulle Embroidery
Embroidery on lace
Plum 121
Dark iris 122
Sequins aplique
Dress ES/FW13/D/35/110122 632 40, 42, 44(2), 46, 48, 50 Blouse ES/FW13/BL/3/110 260 38 (2), 40, 42 Trousers ES/FW13/TR/5/110 215 38, 40(2), 42(2), 44,46, 48 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/110 950€ 38, 40, 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 850 38, 40, 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 700 38, 40, 42(2), 44(2), 46, 48, 50 Blouse ES/FW13/BL/3/108 220 40, 42, 44(2), 46 Skirt ES/FW13/SK/4/108 420 38, 40,42, 44
Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 850 38, 40, 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 700 38, 40, 42(2), 44(2), 46, 48, 50 Blouse ES/FW13/BL/3/108 220 40, 42, 44(2), 46 Skirt ES/FW13/SK/4/108 420 38, 40,42, 44 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/121 700€ 38, 40,(2), 42(2), 44, 46 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/121 1,400€ 40(2), 42(2), 44(2), 46 Dress ES/FW13/D/3 /EM8/121 2,500€ 42
Dress ES/FW13/D/4/101 600€ 38(2), 40,(2), 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/101 2,000€ 38 Fur Jacket ES/FW13/JK/7/500 2800 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/SEQ1/500 40, 44 3480 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/EM8/500 2120 42, 46 Dress ES/FW13/D/34/EM8/500 980€ 38, 40,42(2)
Dress ES/FW13/D/3/SEQ1/500 2100 38, 42
Dress ES/FW13/D/3/SEQ1EM8/5 2,500€ 40, 44 Dress ES/FW13/D1/3/SEQ1/500 960 42, 44, 46
Dress ES/FW13/D/3/500 1600€ 40, 42(2), 44 Jumpsuit ES/FW13/JMS/3/500 1600€ 38, 40, 44
Clutch ES/FW13/C/9/101 310€ 2 Clutch ES/FW13/C/39/110 260€ 3
Clutch ES/FW13/C/9/SEQ1/110 380 2 Clutch ES/FW13/C/10/108 260 1
Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/108 520€ 37, 38 Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/500 520€ 36,5, 37(2), 38(3), 39, 40 Shoes ES/FW13/S/89/500 610 38, 39 Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/101 300€ 36, 37, 38, 38,5, 39 Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/500 300€ 36, 37(2), 37,5, 38(4), 38,5, 39(2), 40
VERA WANG Antique White 102
Gray 105
Purple 120
Black 500
Crystal scales
Tile sequin scales
Lavender 118
Shining matellase’
Peony tulle
Lace ornaments
Indigo 119
Matellase’
Skirt VW/FW13/SK/3/CRS1/500 760€ 38,(2), 40 Top VW/FW13/T/3/500 300€ 40, 42(2), 44(2), 46, 48 Skirt VW/FW13/SK/3/CRS1/500 270€ 38, 40(2), 42(3), 44 Fur mantelet VW/FW13/M/8/500 1100€ 1 piece Dress VW/FW13/D/3/CRS1/500 980€ 38, 40, 42 Top VW/FW13/T/3/CRS1/500 300 38, 40, 42 Pants VW/FW13/P/3/EM10/500 380 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress VW/FW13/D/3/CRS1/500 600 38, 42
Top VW/FW13/T/4/SEQ3/105500 450 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 Skirt VW/FW13/SK/4/ SEQ3/105500 350 38, 40, 42 Top VW/FW13/T1/4/ SEQ3/105500 300 38(2), 40(2), 42 Top VW/FW13/T/3/CRS1/118 600€ 38(2), 40 (2), 42, 44, 46 Pants VW/FW13/P/3/500 320 € 40, 42,(3) 44(3), 46(2), 48(2) Dress VW/FW13/D/3/KN3/119 880 38, 40(2), 42(2), 44
Dress VW/FW13/D/3/KN2KN3/118119
Blouse VW/FW13/BL/3/ PR3/102500 410€ 38, 40(2), 42, 44 Pants VW/FW13/P/3/KN2/118 430 38, 40, 42 Blouse VW/FW13/BL/3/ PR3/120500 390 38, 40, 42 Dress VW/FW13/D/3/EM9/500 880 38, 40
Jenny Packham Latte 101
Plum 121
Salmon 114
Powder blue 106
Pine green 107
Auburn 116
Oxford blue 111
Black 500
Tile sequins scales
Crystal motives
Sequins scales
Crystal decorations
Crystal covering
Crystal and Sequins decorations
Dress JP/FW13/D/3/114 1100 38, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/SEQ3/114 1270 38, 40 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS4/116 760 40, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D1/3/CRS4/116 1420 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS4/121 800 38, 40, 42, 44
Dress JP/FW13/D/5/CRS3/101 1100 40, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS3/101 1100 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/500 1080 40, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/SEQ2/500 1000 38, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/4/CRS4/500 980 40, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/4/500 880 42, 44, 46
Blouse JP/FW13/BL/3/CRS3/111 360 40, 42, 44, 46 Skirt JP/FW13/SK/3/111 300 40, 42, 44, 46 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/111 960 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRSSEQ/111 1600 40, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/ SEQ2/107 1320 40, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS2/106 1600 40
FORECAST
200000
MARCHESA ELIE SAAB VERA WANG OTB
M.ACCESSORIES E.S.ACCESSORIES JENNY PACKHAM
150000
100000
50000
0 FULL PRICE
SALES 30%
SALES 50%
Marchesa Apparel(67%) and Accessories(92%)
11
33 47 12
FULL PRICE SALES 50%
16
8
65
8
SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED
FULL PRICE SALES 50%
SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED
Elie Saab Apparel(88%) and Accessories(81%)
12
19
11 10 14
FULL PRICE SALES 50%
63
SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED
12
FULL PRICE SALES 50%
59
SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED
Vera Wang(73%)
Jenny Packham(74%) 26
27 56
7
9
10
FULL PRICE SALES 50%
54 11
SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED
FULL PRICE SALES 50%
OTB(100%) 55
FULL PRICE SALES 50%
45
SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED
SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED