Fashion buying book (low quality)

FASHION BUYING final project

OLGA LOBODA Fashion Marketing Level 5

LA RINASCENTE MENSWEAR WOMENSWEAR CHILDRENSWEAR ACCESSORIES JEWELLERY •

Italy’s top department store

PERFUMES AND COSMETICS

•

Flagship location, «shopping monument»

HOUSEHOLD GOODS

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10 floors

•

11 stores in central locations in Italy

DESIGN MARKET

Monday to Thursday 9.30-21.00 Friday to Saturday 9.30-22.00 Sunday 10.00-21.00

FOOD SUPERMARKET CAFES & RESTAURANTS

LA RINASCENTE DIRECTORY Main Building

-1

4

Design Supermarket

High-end women’s collections

Decor, coffee & tea, north european design, electronics & hi fi, gadgets, lighting, books, office, kitchen and tableware, luggage and travel items, bar della rina, cafe’

Contemporary designer women’s collections

Ground Floor

Lingerie

Cosmetics

Childrenswear

Fashion and textile accessories

Children shoes

Jewellery

6

Watches

Bed & Bath homecollections

Sunglasses

Kitchen, luxury tableware and table linens

Balcony

Home & decor

Fashion accessories and jewellery

Customer’s service desk

1

Wedding registry

Men’s fashion collections

Tax refund office

Men’s shoes

Gift wrap service

access to Casual & Jeans area

7

2

Food & Restaurants

Men’s classic and casual collections

restaurants, food market, panoramic view, terrace

Men’s underwear acess to Casual & Jeans area

Maio Restaurant, Obika Mozzarella Bar, BE-Steak, My Sushi, De Santis, Il Bar, YN Vineria, Juicebar, Champagnerie Noet & Chandon, Cioccolateria, ArtedelRicevere, Food Market

3

8

Classic designer women’s collections

Aldo Coppola hair stylist

Designer shoe area

5

DIRECTORY Santa Radegonda, 10

0 Women’s accessories Sunglasses Gadgets

1 Contemporary women’s collections Jeans bar

2 Casual & denim men’s collections Sewing repairs and alterations

HISTORY

The long story of La Rinacente started In 1865, when Bocconi brothers opened Italy's first ready-to-wear dress shop in Milan. The success was immediate and huge, following the opening of the store in piazza Duomo which has a department store format, it was named «Aux Villes d'Italie». The concept of walk-in store with ready-to-wear clothes was completely new for the Italian customer. It had been inspired by Le Bon Marche in Paris, which was the first department store in the history of fashion.

The success of the brothers‘ business was very short though. The war caused problems for the company and it was about to flop. Advertising and communication strategies were not developed well and in the beginning of 1900s La Rinascente was bought by Senatore and Romualdo Borletti. He started his strategy with re-developing the image of the store.

Decadent poet Gabriele d’Annunzio, the most influential figure in the cultural life in Italy in that time, was hired in order to develop it. He suggested «La Rinascente» meaning the rebirth, which was truly the re-birth: of European fashion, of their store and the after-war Italy.

KEY DATES 1865 Bocconi brothers open Italy's first ready-to-wear dress shop in Milan 1877 Opening in piazza Duomo with department store format (ÂŤAux Villes d'ItalieÂť) 1917 Senatore and Romualdo Borletti acquire control of Bocconi's store 1918 The short circuit caused the fire and the store was completely burnt 1928 Upim, a fixed-price variety goods store, is launched 1950 The La Rinascente store, destroyed during Allied bombing attacks, reopens in Milan.

1961 The company extends into the supermarket sector with the launch of the Sma supermarket chain 1969 The property goes to Fiat group 1972 The company opens the first hypermarket in Italy, Citta Mercati (City Market) 1983 The Bricocenter DIY chain is launched (including Leroy Merlin) 1988 Sigros e Sagea, a supermarket and cash-and-carry store group, is acquired 1995 The company acquires Cedis-Migliarini, a regional supermarket group.

1997 Auchan and IFIL found Eurofind, which becomes the majority shareholder of La Rinascente.

1998 SIB, which takes over Bricocenters and Auchan's Italian Leroy Merlin stores, is created.

2002 Auchan and IFIL launch a buyout of La Rinascente, delisting it from the Borsa Italiana.

2004 Auchan acquires control of La Rinascente's food store operations, leaving only the La Rinascente and Upim store chains.

2005 La Rinascente is acquired by a consortium led by the Borletti family and including Pirelli Real Estate.

2006 Together with Deutsche Bank the group bought Printemps 2007-2010 Due to the market repositioning the filial stores in Bari, Bergamo, Grugliasco, Lodi, Naples and Milan (Viale Certosa) were closed 2010 The Palermo filial store was moved in via Roma (ex Upim), a 4 500 sqm space 2010 The Rome filial store was moved in await of the new opening 2011 Central Retail Corporation a subsidiary company of Thai Central Group of Companies took over 100% of La Rinascente 2013 The group took over the Copenhagen department store Illum

COMPANY

ADRESS: via Washington, 70 Milan, MI 20146 Italy

FOUNDED in 1865 PHONE: 39 02 467711 FAX: 39 02 46 77 13 87 www.rinascente.it

KEY EXECUTIVES: Mr. Vittorio Radice Chief Executive Officer of La Rinascente division Age: 51 Mr. Luca Rossetto Chief Executive Officer of Upim Division Age: 50 Mr. Benoit François Lheureux Managing Director and Director Mr. Giovanni Cobolli Gigli Managing Director and Director

All the members of management team agreed to remain after the acquisition by the Central Retail Group

OWNERS AND SHARE HOLDERS Principal Subsidiaries: La Rinascente; Upim.

Principal Competitors: Coin S.p.A.; SME S.p.A.; Standa S.p.A.

•

Senatore and Romualdo Borletti

•

Fiat

•

Eurofind

•

Auchan

•

IFIL

•

Tamerice S.r.l.: Investitori Associati, Pirelli Real Estate, Deutsche Bank Real Estate Global Opportunities IB L.P., Borletti family

•

Central Retail Corporation

BOARD MEMBERS Insiders on board members NAME

TITLE

Benoit Lheureux

Managing Director and Director

Giovanni Cobolli Gigli

Managing Director and Director

Other board members NAME

PRIMARY COMPANY

Maurizio Borletti

Borletti Group S.C.A.

Carlo Vismara

Arnoldo Mondadori Editore SpA

Xavier Delom de Mezerac

Groupe Auchan SA

Guy Geffroy

La Rinascente S.p.A.

Christophe Dubrulle

Group Auchan SA

Franzo Stevens

Fiat S.p.A.

Luigi Arnudo

Colmark

Gabriele di Genoia e Suniglia

Assicurazioni Generali S.p.A.

Marco Weigmann

Buzzi Unicem SpA

Dario Cossutta

Investitori Associati SGR SpA

Luca Liberali

Lehman Brothers Holdings, Inc.

Paolo Mantero

Novamont S.p.A.

DISTRIBUTION Central Retail Group Central Embassy New large scale super luxury shopping mall under construction located next to Central Chidlom, will open in late 2013.

Central Festival Phuket Central Festival Phuket opened on 9 September 2004, located in Phuket Town, Thailand. It is the largest shopping mall in Phuket and has total retail space of 120,000 square meters

Robinson Lifestyle Centre Robinson Lifestyle Centre is a new medium size mall concept of Central Retail Corporation. A typical size of the new concept will have a retail space of around 30,000 square metres, with 20,000 net leasable area. First mall opened in November 2011, in Trang, other branches are in Suphanburi, Kanchanaburi. And 6 branches are under construction in Sakon Nakhon, Surin, Saraburi, Prachinburi, Chachoengsao and Roi Et, will open in 2013-2014.

Central Central stores are positioned as an upper-market chain. It has 8 stores in Bangkok, 6 branches in upcountry with Pathum Thani, Chaengwattana (Pak Kret, Nonthaburi), Chiang Mai, Hat Yai, Pattaya and Phuket, and 3 branches in China with Hangzhou, Shenyang and Chengdu; has 4 more planned for new branches will be open between 2013-2014, in Chiang Mai, Hat Yai, Samui, Grand Indonesia (Jakarta, Indonesia).

Robinson The Robinson department store chain was established in 1979 and was merged with Central in 1995. The company has branches in Bangkok, Nonthaburi, Chiang Mai, Hat Yai, Phuket, Patong Beach, Nakhon Si Thammarat, Ayutthaya, Ratchaburi, Sri Racha, Chanthaburi, Udonthani, Ubon Ratchathani, Chonburi, Khon Kaen, Trang, Chiang Rai, Phitsanulok, Rama IX in Bangkok, Surat Thani, Lampang and Kanchanaburi.

ZEN (department store) The upmarket Zen department store chain was established in 1990 with its first branch as one of the anchors of the World Trade Center in Pathum Wan district, Bangkok.

La Rinascente On May 27, 2011 Central Retail bought a 100% stake of the 150-year-old store firm for 260 million euros.

Illum At Denmark, Central Retail took over a 120-year-old retailing business on March 12, 2013, Illum.

DISTRIBUTION La Rinascente •

11 stores

•

Main Italian cities

•

Historical places, central locations

•

Flagship: Milan store

•

The major chain of luxury malls in Italy

•

Only physical stores

•

Close/Late Follower format, a variety of brands doesn’t build strong image identification

•

Due to the market repositioning (also getting rid of capillarity) the filial stores in Bari, Bergamo, Grugliasco, Lodi, Naples and Milan (Viale Certosa) were closed

COMMUNICATION La Rinascente portfolio includes all the possible means of communication. From the beginning until nowadays the company has collaborated with artists, actors etc. in order to create memorable attractive campaigns. The store constantly uses all the possible tools of communication:

•

In-store campaigns

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Shop windows’ decorations

•

Social and press media campaigns

•

Special offers

•

Sales communications

•

Contests

•

Special packaging

POSITIONING #1 department store and luxury retailer in Italy (the flagship in Milan)

•

La Rinascente delivers a huge variety of different merchandise in apparel, jewellery, accessories, cosmetics, household and office goods, food, toys and others. It is a provider of best-quality goods and services. La Rinascente also provides such services as wedding registry, gift packagings, sewing repairs and alterations, hairstylists, make up artists and personal shoppers.

•

From contemporary and niche designers to classic brands

•

From sneakers to haute couture shoes

•

La Rinascente targets a high affluent group of customers, but the store contains several departments affordable for the ones with less spending power (e.g. Design Market, Sneakers and Jeans departments)

•

103 Euros - average receipt price Other stores of the group

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Have a variety big enough for the cities they are situated in

•

Represent the monopoly in luxury department stores scale

•

Even though they do not reach the top international level, they satisfy the requirements of their shoppers Changes in the positioning since the acquisition by Central Retail Group The goal to position the chain, the flagship store in Milan particularly, at the level of the international department stores Developing the «luxe» image by improving the lounge spaces and merchandise representation

AREA • • • • • • • • •

Vittorio Emanuele Avenue, main central street of Milan, the city of fashion and shopping Connects Piazza Duomo with Piazza San Babila Pedestrian area The ideal place for shopping and window shopping.

Arcades of fashion shops, big stores, bars, cinemas and libraries.

Mainly clothes shops, but also books and media Several sophisticated label shops (Max Mara, Moreschi, Bruno Magli and Pollini) Popular labels such as H&M, Zara and Mango Low to medium pricing with more or less fashion-oriented content

SHOPPERS AND FREQUENTERS

Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Piazza Duomo are the first places tourists go to when they visit Milan. This district is always overcrowded with international and italian visitors. Milanese people also frequent a lot these places since it has a huge selection of different products with different pricing. Many retailers own their biggest points of sale in Corso Vittorio Emanuele, e.g., Zara, H&M, Max & Co., Bershka, Mondadori, etc.

The variety and prices attract contribute a lot of purchases and frequenters easily become shoppers. It is different to the luxury shopping district with the main street Montenapoleone. It has become another touristy place, a monument of high-end fashion of MIlan with top brands and their particular and expensive expositions of goods. People go there to enjoy window shopping and the atmosphere of exclusivity. Much smaller part of frequenters shop in this case.

SHOPPERS AND FREQUENTERS La Rinascente La Rinascente case is different: the exclusivity is mixed with affordable small goods for house and souvenirs.

Being mentioned in every tourist guide, it is daily frequented by a lot of people who pass by just to have a look and buy a souvenir. The design supermarket apparently is the most over-crowded place in the store.

Milanese people come here as well: there are useful gadgets and accessories, many goods which can be bought as a gift.

La Rinascente is a must-spot for shopping tours: people from different parts of the world visit Milan attracted by comparatively cheaper luxury goods of different categories. This group is among the heavy-shoppers; Italians living in Milan would probably go to their favourite boutiques or walk in Montenapoleone street.

Instead for international tourists it is a perfect solution: all the possible brands in one place, divided in departments.

The store has an amazing terrace with panoramic view on Duomo cathedral. In the evening La Rinascente is frequented not only with a purpose of buying something, but having an aperitif in one of the most beautiful places in Milan.

TARGET ANALYSIS La Rinascente strategy is targeting people of different genders, ages, nationalities, lifestyles, preferences and occupations. They have higher then medium to high spending power. The groups can be formed in a different way (which are obviously mixed and combined in real life) : • • • • • • • •

Young innovators Gilded youth Young professionals Generation X, family people Mature elite Nouveau riche Career builders Relaxed declining years The cafes, cosmetics and ground department, as well as Santa Radegonda building have lower pricing that enlarges the estimated target. As it is mentioned before, the receipt is very low in comparison to the average prices of goods, 103 €. Meaning that even though La Rinascente strategy is aimed towards luxury brand image and associations, the store generates more profits on low-priced items. The purchase value and the conversion rate remain high thanks to all the frequenters and tourists passing by the store every day.

La Rinascente has been focused on the international customers from East, Far East and America recently.

The groups mentioned above can be perfectly applied for this broad target.

INNOVATORS

Age

24-38

Gender

male and female

Residence

developed countries, capitals and major cities

Marital status

not married

Occupation

students/career in a design, fashion, engineering, art fields

Education

bachelor/master degrees

Average income (per month)

financed by parents/1900-3800 €

Ways of transportation

public transportation/ motorcycle/ convenient city car

Interests

Their occupation field is their biggest interest; innovations and technology, creativity, news, digital magazines, sports, friends, cinematography, music, travelling

Favourite brands

Maison Martin Margiela, Alexander Wang, Givenchy, Kenzo, Christopher Kane, C’N’C’, McQ, Surface to Air, Cheap Monday, Nike,Vans, Zara

Brand Loyalty

low

Purchase behaviour

Enjoy shopping in different stores, but they do not rush to buy things. Expect personnel to know as much as they do. See the store as a place not only to shop, but also find out trends, curious about things.

Expectations from the brand and products

Contemporary, innovativ, self-ecpressing and particular designs. Reasonable quality-price relation, attractive surroundings and visual merchandising, good customer service, the brand awareness is of low importance

Price sensitivity

medium to high

Purchase rate

Used to purchase in small quantities frequently

Locations of shopping

Different: from vintage markets to high-end department stores. Shop online as well. Do not usually take shopping trips, but shop when they are abroad

GILDED YOUTH

Age

18-25

Gender

male and female

Residence

developed countries, capitals and major cities

Marital status

not married

Occupation

students

Education

bachelor/master degrees

Average income (per month)

financed by affluent parents

Ways of transportation

personal cars/ cars with drivers/ taxi/ rarely public transportation

Interests

Shopping, parties, fashion, brands, friends, cinema, music, gossip, travelling, fitness, beauty, food

Favourite brands

Chloe, Chanel (accessories), Stella McCartney, Dsquared, Iceberg, Juicy Couture, Just Cavalli, Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Moschino Cheap and Chic,Versus Versace, Paul Smith, Dirk Bikkembergs, Philipp Plein, Calvin Klein

Brand Loyalty

medium

Purchase behaviour

Love shopping; rely on trends, brand iconic and popular items, spend hours in the stores with friends; do not require an advanced knowledge from personnel, though respect and positive communication are a must

Expectations from the brand and products

Fashion-forward, particular and memorable, products. High-end sophisticated atmosphere in the store; attractive exposition of goods; clothes are their objects of interests and conversations, they are an essential element of every happening in their lives; it has to be a well-known brand, trendy design or a product with a story behind; price-quality relation is not very much important

Price sensitivity

low

Purchase rate

High

Locations of shopping

Luxury department and concept stores, sophisticated boutiques; online; specialty stores; shop\ travelling around the world

YOUNG PROFESSIONALS

Age

27-35

Gender

male-majority, female

Residence

biggest capitals around the world

Marital status

not married/just married

Occupation

good position, successful prospects in financial, economical, marketing, web fields

Education

bachelor, master degrees

Average income (per month)

2200-4800 â‚Ź

Ways of transportation

public transportation/ motorcycle/ city car

Interests

Career building, news, Internet, reading, cinema

Favourite brands

Hugo Boss, Roger David, Austen Brothers, DKNY, Polo Ralph Lauren, Lacoste, Massimo Dutti

Brand Loyalty

medium to high

Purchase behaviour

Rarely go shopping, do not spend a lot of time in the store; go for their favourite brands, but do not deny some new solutions, therefore good service of a shop assistant is recommended

Expectations from the brand and products

Affordable for their income brands, different types of product categories sold in one store. High quality of products responding to their demands; comfortable simple interior and atmosphere; friendly and responsive personnel; business or casual clothes that can be used in different occasions; durability

Price sensitivity

medium

Purchase rate

Low

Locations of shopping

Specialized boutiques, luxury department stores

GENERATION X

Age

42-58

Gender

male and female

Residence

everywhere: cities, smaller towns, outside big cities, developed villages; big apartments or family houses

Marital status

married, with children

Occupation

senior position (men), part-time/full-time not very stressful job/housewives (women)

Education

bachelor, master degrees

Average income (per month)

5000-4800 â‚Ź

Ways of transportation

family car/ car with a personal driver

Interests

Family, career, friends, parents, outdoors activities, reading, sports, cinema, arts, travelling, housekeeping, cooking

Favourite brands

Ralph Lauren, Tommy hilfinger, Max Mara, Armani, Gucci, Donna Karan, Louis Vuitton (accessories), Ermenegildo Zegna,Vanessa Bruno

Brand Loyalty

medium to high

Purchase behaviour

Shopping as an entertainment for the whole family; shop in the department stores and malls, where they find everything they need and relax having a meal; require comfortable atmosphere and welcoming staff

Expectations from the brand and products

High quality of products responding to their demands; comfortable simple interior and atmosphere; friendly and responsive personnel; business or casual clothes that can be used in different occasions; variety of different merchandise, clothes that can suit different occasions

Price sensitivity

low

Purchase rate

purchase in big amounts, but not very often

Locations of shopping

Luxury department stores or shopping disctricts

MATURE ELITE

Age

48-60

Gender

male and female

Residence

mix: appartments in the cities and country houses

Marital status

married with children

Occupation

senior position, pensioner with stable economic situation,own business

Education

bachelor, master degrees

Average income (per month)

2200-4800 â‚Ź

Ways of transportation

city car/ car with a personal driver/ taxi

Interests

leisure activities, acquaintances and friends, cocktail parties, shopping, family, travelling, cars, housekeeping, interior decorations, food, fashionable sports and activities (yoga, pilates, golf, yachting etc.), reading, press, news, health

Favourite brands

Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Brioni, Ermenegildo Zegna,Yves Saint Laurent, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Missoni, Bottega Veneta

Brand Loyalty

high

Purchase behaviour

Frequent shoppers, enjoy shopping, clothes have big importance for them, identifying their status and personal style

Expectations from the brand and products

High quality products, elegance and fashion mix; exclusivity in everything: the store, interior, service, packaging etc. Brand is a part of their lifestyle. Specialization is important (a suit from Brioni,Valentino dress, Hermes bag, Manolo Blanhik shoes etc.)

Price sensitivity

low

Purchase rate

high

Locations of shopping

Luxury department stores, boutiques, shopping districts, shop abroad

CAREER BUILDERS

Age

38-55

Gender

male-majority, female

Residence

biggest capitals around the world

Marital status

married

Occupation Education

next generation of ÂŤyoung professionalsÂť, senior position in in financial, economical, marketing, web fields bachelor, master degrees

Average income (per month)

7200-15000 â‚Ź

Ways of transportation

city car/ taxi/ a car with a personal driver

Interests

Career building, news, Internet, reading, cinema, family, sports, health

Favourite brands

Kiton, Brioni, Ermenegildo Zegna, Prada, Tom Ford, Etro, Brunello Cucinelli, Corneliani, Armani

Brand Loyalty

high

Purchase behaviour

Rarely go shopping, go for their favourite brands; they are not frequent shoppers, shopping is more a need for them, a need to maintain their level and perfect look

Expectations from the brand and products

Clothes that stand for the level they reached; perfect quality and suiting. High-end tailrong brands, a mix of traditions and style

Price sensitivity

low

Purchase rate

rare but big purchases

Locations of shopping

Mono- and multibrand boutiques, specialty stores, department stores

NOUVEAU RICHE

Age

30-60

Gender

male and female

Residence

mix: appartments in the cities and country houses

Marital status

married

Occupation

own successful business, senior positions

Education

bachelor/bachelor+master degrees

Average income (per month)

10000-...â‚Ź

Ways of transportation

personal car/ taxi/ car with a driver

Interests

Career building, family, news, Internet, technology, leisure activities, cocktail parties, shopping, travelling, cars, housekeeping, interior decorations, food, sports

Favourite brands

Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Celine, Bottega Veneta, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Brioni, Armani,Versace, Roberto Cavalli, Balenciaga, etc.

Brand Loyalty

high

Purchase behaviour

Purchase in big amounts frequently; because of the high taxes and therefore prices in their native countries take shopping trips to Europe; shop in multibrand boutiques and stores; compose a big percentage of customers in huge department stores, such as La Rinascente

Expectations from the brand and products

High fashion content and best customer service; quality and style identifying their level; different products for different occasions; logo-mania. Popularity of the brand is important; it has to be recognisable and well-known.

Price sensitivity

medium

Purchase rate

Low

Locations of shopping

Big luxury department stores, boutiques. Shop abroad frequently. Take shopping trips.

RELAXED DECLINING YEARS

Age

63-...

Gender

male and female

Residence

big family houses outside the cities, in the country- or seaside

Marital status

married with children

Occupation

pensioners with high means disposal/ own business working for them and regulated by their children

Education

bachelor degree

Average income (per month)

-

Ways of transportation

car with a personal driver/ taxi

Interests

Family, leisure and outdoor activities, elite sports, reading, news, gardening and interior, cooking

Favourite brands

Loro Piana, Malo, Hogan, Ralph Lauren, Brunello Cucinelli, Kiton, Brioni

Brand Loyalty

high

Purchase behaviour

Go shopping very rarely; shop together with their family; require relaxed and calm atmosphere, attentive and understanding personnel; appretiate details: packaging, after-purchase service;

Expectations from the brand and products

High quality, durable products. comfort, best materials. Heritage, tailoring traditions are origins of products and the brand are important.

Price sensitivity

low (if the products respond to their requirements

Purchase rate

Low to medium

Locations of shopping

Small specialised boutiques, they have their favourite mono- and multibrand stores

•

Central location

•

Dimensions: surface area of 52,584 sqm and an authorised sales surface of 23,419 sqm

•

Wide variety of merchandise enabling to reach all customer groups

•

Variety of services

•

Each floor dedicated to a certain merchandise and target group therefore

•

Clear customer path visual merchandising

COMPETITORS

EXCELSIOR Excelsior as well as La Rinascente is situated in the centre of MIlan close to Duomo. Galleria del corso, 4, which is a street next to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II leads from Piazza Duomo to Piazza San Babila. It is situated in a historical building of the 19th century, which was used to be a cinema.

Excelsior is a conceptual department store, a mix of two point of sale formats. It is an extraordinarly designed area (by Jean Nouvel) of about 4000 sqm. Placed on seven stories, it offers particular and high-end apparel, accessories, jewelry and beauty products as well as selective "fine food" (sold in an exclusive supermarket and served in a bar and a restaurant). The ground floor has a vast deaprtment with mixed merchandise: from perfumes to iphone covers,-Laduree, VAlextra luggage and TIffany corners. The second (men’s) and third (women’s) floors are curated by revered Milanese boutique owner – and Excelsior Artistic Director – Antonia Giacinti. The top floor contains women’s accessories (also chosen by Giacinti) and a Manolo Blahnik shop-in-shop. All the merchandise is highly selected in order to maintain the innovative brand image and attract fashion forward customers.

Excelsior belongs to the retail Coin's Group that reported that this store makes part of their strategy: targeting a more fashion-oriented and affluent clientelle.

Excelsior has a more defined style and targeting then La Rinascente. Apparently, it generates less sales due to a more «hidden» allocation and a smaller target group. Though it also has a lot of frequenters and sudden shoppers who generate a big part of sales. Excelsior doesn’t have any other points of sale appart from Milan location.

TIFANNY&CO

COMPTOIR SUD PACIFIQUE

HELMUT LANG

LADURÉE

COOLA

RAG & BONE

AVEDA

COSTUME NATIONAL

THEORY

LE CAVEAU

COUTO

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

PUNTO OTIICO

COWSHED

HAUTE HIPPIE

OLFATTORIO

CREED

BORSALINO

ACAMPORA

CULTI

FALIERO SARTI

ACQUA DI STRESA

CZECH & SPEAKE

ALMALA

AGONIST

DURANCE

PORTOLANO

ALICE & PETER

E.COUDRAY

ANTIPAST

ANDREA MAACK PARFUMS

EAU D'ITALIE

RED SOCKS

ANNE MARIE BORLIND

EIGHT & BOB

RODA

ANTIPODES

ETAT LIBRE D'ORANGE

SCARABEO D'ORO

AR 457

ETRO

V73

ARMANI

FLORIS

HANKY PANKY

ATELIER COLOGNE

FRAPIN

BEAUTY FOR REAL

HIERBAS DE IBIZA

BECCA

HISTOIRES DE PARFUMS

BIEHL

HONORE' DE PRES

BLOOD CONCEPT

HOUBIGANT PARIS

BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS

HUITIEME ARTHUMIECKI & GRAEF

BOIS 1920

INEKE

BOND N°9

JANE IREDALE - MINERAL

BONHEUR POUR LA MAISON

COSMETICS

BRONNLEY

JULIETTE HAS A GUN

BYREDO

KAMA AYURVEDA

CALÈ FRAGRANZE

KNIZE

CARNER BARCELONA

KOJU 1575

CARTHUSIA

LABORATORIO OLFATTIVO

COMPAGNIE DE PROVENCE

COMME DES GARCONS

BALMAIN

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

DRIES VAN NOTEN

GIVENCHY

MANOLO BLAHNIK

GIVENCHY

VALENTINO

JIMMY CHOO

KENZO

EDWIN

CHLOE'

PIERRE HARDY

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

PRPS

PROENZA SCHOULER

ZANOTTI

RICK OWENS

GILDED AGE

KENZO

SERGIO ROSSI

MARNI

LEVI'S

ISABEL MARANT

GIANVITO ROSSI

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

Z ZEGNA

ERDEM

ISABEL MARANT

BALMAIN

TONELLO

HAIDER ACKERMANN

REPETTO

NEIL BARRETT

NIKE

JOSEPH

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

JIL SANDER

GIORGIO BRATO

NIKE GYAKUSOU

EACH X OTHER

MAISON MICHEL

VALENTINO

ACNE

GOLDEN GOOSE

THEYSKENS THEORY

SHINE

GIVENCHY

VISVIM

ADIDAS

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON

SINGLESEASON

PROENZA SCHOULER

ASPESI

ADIDAS BY KAZUKI

RICK OWENS

THE FIRST THE BEST THE

KENZO

NIGEL CABOURN

DIADORA

DRIES VAN NOTEN

LAST

CHLOÉ

NANAMICA

CAR SHOE

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

WILD FOX

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

BARBOUR BY TOKITO

CASTANER

TROVATA

ZOE KARSSEN

MARNI

YMC

CHURCH'S

GIORGIO BRATO

SUPERFINE

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

WOOLRICH WOOLEN MILLS

BE POSITIVE

SEMI COUTURE

TEMPTATION

RICK OWENS

JOHNBULL

SEBAGO

EMMA COOK

THAKOON

FORTE FORTE

BAND OF OUTSIDERS

SPERRY TOP SEIDER

M MISSONI

SIMEON FARRAR

HTC

SALVATORE PICCOLO

ALAIN TWENTY NINE

FORTE FORTE

SIBEL SARAL

K JAQUES

FINAMORE

BROOKLYN WE GO HARD

BOY BAND OF OUTSIDERS

DR. MARTENS

MACKINTOSH

HTC

CAMILLA AND MARC

CHURCH'S

MASSIMO PIOMBO

JAMES PERSE

CURRENT ELLIOT

BALENCIAGA JEWERLY

HAVERSACK

JOHN SMEDLEY

HUDSON

JET SET

JOSEPH

LEVI'S MADE & CRAFTED

CLOSED

K-WAY

JOE' JEANS

DEPARTMENT 5

IRO

MSGM

JAMES PERSE

MISSONI

JET SET

MOSCHINO

15 ½ FIFTEEN AND HALF

GALERIES LAFAYETTE Galeries Lafayette is a famous department store in the centre of Paris, founded a few decades after La Rinascente, at the end of the 19th century. Every year millions of tourists and French people visit this historical shopping palace. Ten-storey shop is situated in a marvelous building with art nouveau decorations and offers a huge assortment.

Galeries Lafayette belongs to Groupe Galeries Lafayette which also owns Nouvelles Galeries, Bazar de l’Hotel de Ville, Monoprix, Prisunic, Lafayette Gourmet, Cofinoga and e-LaSer. Different from La RInascente, Galeries Lafayette was always the innovator in the past years: opening of the highest escalator in Europe (1951), Organisation of the “Festival de la création française” [French design festival] and a prize-giving ceremony to reward “good taste at good value for money, compared to ugliness at a higher price", a manifesto for the democratisation of design, at the heart of the company’s vocation.(1954),Galeries Lafayette creates “Festival de la Mode” [Fashion festival] (1980) etc.

The flagship store is situated in Paris, at 40, boulevard Haussmann, in the IXe arrondissement.

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The first opening of a series of many new locations in France and abroad was in Nice, in 1916. Berlin store, constructed between 1991 and 1995, was opened in 1996 on Friedrichstraße. The store was designed by Jean Nouvel who worked on Excelsior as well.

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The group made a licensing agreement to open a store in Morocco Mall, Casablanca, in 2010.

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A Lafayette location opened in Trump Tower in New York City in September 1991. It was unsuccessful, and closed after three years.

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A Galeries Lafayette store opened in Dubai Mall on 18 May 2009.

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Galeries Lafayette opens their first store in South East Asia in the summer of 2013 at the Pacific Place Mall.

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E-commerce is available on the official website

A Absolument Maison Absorba Achile Adidas Adidas Originals Agatha Agnelle Agnes B. Air France By Le Tanneur Aix & Terra Ally Capellino American Retro Ancien Accessoire Parisien Andy Warhol By Angelina April First Aridza Bross Armani Jeans Armani Junior Armor-Lux Arrow Art Of Soule Artemide Arthur Et Aston Asmodee Aster Atelier Du Vin Aubade Avant Premiere Azzaro Azzaro Silver

B Banana Moon Bandai Barbapapa Barbara Rihl Barons De Rothschild Beka Ben Sherman Bensimon Beracamy Best Mountain Bikini Bar Billecart-Salmon Biscuiterie Mercier Bloch Bodum Brabantia Braun

Bric's Briefing Brigitte Bardot Brio Buki Burberry Burberry Beauty Burlington

C C Petula C.Oui Cadet Rousselle Café-Tasse Calor Calvin Klein Calvin Klein Jeans Calvin Klein Shirt Calvin Klein Underwear Camper Canada Goose Carla Carla For Michalak Cartier Casio Catimini Cerruti 1881 Chantelle Chapon Charles Heidsieck Chaumet Cheap Monday Cheet London Chef Et Sommelier Chevignon Chipie Christian Lacroix Château D'Estoublon Château De Pibarnon Château Lagrezette Château Les Valentines Cipriani Clio Blue Clyda Compagnia Dell'Arabica Comptoir De Belle Île En Mer Comptoirs Et Compagnies Comtesse Du Barry Confiserie Heidel Converse Corolle Cosabella

Coup De Coeur Crayola Cristel

D D&G Dammann Frères Dci Dd Ddp Deglon Delamotte Delsey Denim & Supply Ralph Lauren Derhy Desigual Didier Guillemain Diesel Dim Dkny Dkny Intimates Dockers Dodo Dom Pérignon Domaine André Et Mireille Tissot Domaine Huet Domaine Serge Dagueneau Et Filles Domaine Zind Humbrecht Donkey Products Dopff & Irion Dot-Drops Doucal'S Doudou Et Compagnie Dr Martens Drouault Dsquared2 Dujardin Dyson

E Edc By Esprit Eden Eden Park Edmond Fallot Elevenparis Elizabeth Stuart Elodie Cohen Eminence Emporio Armani

Epicerie Lion Epilady Eric Bur Esprit Esprit.

Euroflex Europann Exact

F Facom Faconnable Falke Falksalt Fauchon Fil A Fil Fisher Price Fossier Fossil Franklin & Marshall Fred Fred Perry Furla

G G-Star Gaastra Galeries Lafayette Cachemire Galeries Lafayette Paris Gant Gc Geoworld Geox Gerard Darel Giochi Preziosi Godiva Gragnano Guess Guess by Marciano Cruise Gérard Bertrand

H Hackett London Happy Horse Harris Wilson Hasbro Havaianas Hediard Hello Kitty Hilfiger Denim Histoire D'Ours

Hom Hoptimist Hugo Boss Huit

I Ice-Watch Ikks Il Boschetto Impetus Inoui Inouïtoosh Instyler Invotis Izzue

J J Brand Janod Japan Rags Jb Martin Jodhpur Jodhpur Week-End Joe'S Jeans John Galliano Jonak Jott Juicy Couture Jules Destrooper Jump Junior Gaultier

K Kaloo Kaporal Kaporal Jeans Karis Karl Lagerfeld Keds Kenwood Kenzo Kenzo Kids Kesslord Kickers Kid'S Graffiti Kipling Kitchenaid Kothai Krups Kusmi Tea Kyocera

L La Ferme Au Chocolat La Maison D'Armorine La Perla La Trinquelinette Lafayette Accessoires Lafayette Argent Lafayette Beaute Lafayette Collection Lafayette Homme Lafayette Maison Lagostina Lamarthe Lancaster Laurastar Lauren Ralph Lauren Laurent-Perrier Le Cabas Vanessa Bruno Le Coq Sportif Le Creuset Le Palais Des Thés Le Tanneur Le Temps Des Cerises Le Temps Des Cerises.

Lee Lego Leonardi Les 2 Marmottes Les Gourmandises De Sophie Levi'S Lili Gaufrette Lipault Lirio By Philips Little Marcel Liu Jo Livia Monte Carlo Louis Pion Paris Ltb Løv Organic

M M By Monderer Magimix Maille Maison de la Truffe Maison Scotch Maison Taillefer Maisto Majorette Mama'S & Papa'S

Manas Marc By Marc Jacobs Marco Serussi Marina Rinaldi Mariner Mark'S Europe Martinelli Mastrad Mattel Mauviel Maxim'S Mazet De Montargis McGregor Mcs Meadrine Meccano Megableu Mellow Yellow Meltin Pot Merc Of London Meregalli France Michael Kors Michel Herbelin Mila Louise Miss Ap Mod8 Modelco Molly Bracken Monbana Monderer Design Monin Monsieur Jean Yves Mood By Me Morellato Morgan Mosuno Motus Et Bouche Cousue Moulin Roty Moulinex Moët Et Chandon Muno My Lovely Jeans Mysuelly Mywalit Mère Poulard

N Nat Et Nin Nathalie Falmet New Man Nextime Nickel

Nicolas Alziari Nikko Noukie'S Nutella

O Ober Oliviers & Co One Step Opex Original Sylvanian Families Oxbow

P Paquetage Pare Gabia Passionata Pastelle Paul & Joe Sister Paul Smith Pepe Jeans Perchè Ci Credo Petit Jour Paris Peugeot Philippe Gonet Philips Picard Pierre Cardin Pierre Clarence Pierre Lannier Playskool Police Polo Ralph Lauren Pomarium Pommery Provence d’Antan Pulsar Puma Pura Lopez Pyrenex Pâtes Fabre

Q Quai Sud Quiksilver

R Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren Blue Label Ralph Lauren Childrenswear Ravensburger

Ray Ban Red Soul Redskins Reebok Repetto Replay Revol Rica Lewis Ritz Escoffier Roncato Rowenta Royalties Rue Princesse Rykiel Enfant Ryon

S S.T. Dupont Sablon Sabrina Samsonite Santoni Savor & Sens Schott Scooter Scotch And Soda Scrapcooking Screwpull Sdesuc Seafolly Seb See By Chloe See U Soon Seidensticker Seletti Sentosphere Sequoia Sessun Silverlit Simone Perele Sinfulcolors Smalto Smoby Soehnle Sofrie Addex Design Sophie M Souledge Sous Les Paves Spinning Hat Stansbury Co Staub Stella Cadente

Stella Cadente Pour Rosy Studiomakeup Sud Express Suncoo Sur le Sentier des Bergers Swarovski

T Taittinger Ted Lapidus Teddy Smith Tefal The East India Company The Kooples The Kooples Sport The North Face Thierry Mugler Timberland Tintamar Tommy Hilfiger Triumph Trussardi

U Ugg Australia Uttam Boutique

V Vacuvin Valrhona Vax Version Originale Veuve Clicquot Vilac Vivienne Westwood Volcom Vranken Pommery Monopole Vtech

W Winning Moves Wonderbra Wowwee Wrangler Wwf Wwf Anna Club Plush

Y Yoyo Yumi

Z Zadig & Voltaire Zazazou Zoe Tee'S

123 1789 Cala 18crr81 Cerruti 7 For All Mankind

TREND ANALYSIS

NAVY

Dark, intense and classic, next season navy blue is the new black. Made famous by the British Royal Navy, the dark blue adapted itself into the world of fashion and appears as next winter's standout color. Head-to-toe, as seen at Céline and Chloé, or as a heavy, men's coat like those seen at Dries Van Noten and Jil Sander.

From left to right: Dries Van Noten, Chloé and Céline Also seen at Hermès, Nina Ricci, Calvin Klein, Paul & Joe

EXOTIC FURS

The must-have fur coat for next winter comes straight from the wild in-pop colors with disco and grunge flares. As if they were dipped in fluorescent paints and bleached in acid, furs goes two-tone and tricolor, and blacks change to neon yellow and hot pink as brown turns red or green, changing the style codes of urban sophisticates and their classic furs.

From left to right: Roberto Cavalli, Fendi et Versace Also seen at Gucci, Kenzo, Vionnet, Jeremy Scott

TWEED

This wool fabric excels in elegance next season and reinvents itself in various forms. Under the legendary influence of Coco Chanel, who feminized the typically masculine fabric, designers created looks in the carded, flexible material at Chanel, Haider Ackermann and Dolce & Gabbana.

From left to right: Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana and Haider Ackermann Also seen at Lanvin, Emanuel Ungaro, Rag & Bone

TARTAN

From red checks, to green, blue and black plaid, this season the clan beckons as everything from the traditional to the modern appeared printed with Scottish tartan. Grunge at Saint Laurent and masculine at CĂŠline and Stella McCartney, a hint at how designers gave the kilt fabric their own inspirational twist.

From left ot right: Stella McCartney, CĂŠline and Saint Laurent Seen also at Louis Vuitton, Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dolce Gabbana,Versace

NIGHT OWL

Typically a couture embellishment, the ostrich feather appeared for Fall/Winter 2013-2014 in a ready-to-wear version. Soft and light, it punctuated each silhouette with elegance and grace, adding luxury to gowns and separates alike.

From left to right: Dries Van Noten, Gucci,and Vivienne Westwood Also seen at Oscar de la Renta, Louis Vuitton, Proenza Schoulder, Erdem

LEATHERY HEIGHTS

As seen at Chanel, Emilio Pucci, Céline, Balmain, H&M and Zadig & Voltaire, leather -coated legs in thigh-high boots and slick stockings is one of the essential trends for Fall/Winter 2013 - 2014. Suede folk versions appeared at Emilio Pucci and Balmain, while a smooth leather was like a second skin at Céline, but it was at Chanel where soft leather stuck to legs as a type of stocking tucked into boots, Karl Lagerfeld explained backstage at the Chanel Fall/Winter 2013-2014 show.

From left to right: Balmain, Chanel and Emilio Pucci Also seen at: Céline, Donna Karan, Zadig et Voltaire

GRUNGE

This season, studied dishevelment is back as designers reinvented the non-conformist vibe of the ‘80s grunge scene. Take a hint of punk, add a little rock, mix in some heavy metal and you’ll have the deliberately grungy appeal of the looks that hit the runway. Studded leather, mesh stockings and plaid shirts felt made us feel as if we had stepped into the wardrobes of Courtney Love and Blondie circa 1989, but only with an added couture feel. This fashion revival is the ultimate in laid-back, rebellious style.

From left to right: Emilio Pucci, Rodarte and Saint Laurent Seen also at Vivienne Westwood, Haider Ackermann, Zadig & Voltaire

ECRU

A reliable, instant pick-me-up, white invites itself into customers wardrobes each winter and this year is no exception. It arrives bearing gifts ina soft, reassuring cream tint, as seen at Isabel Marant, Valentino and CĂŠline.

From left to right: Valentino, Isabel Marant and CĂŠline Also seen at: Stella McCartney, Elie Saab, Mugler, Nina Ricci

YOUTHFUL PRINTS

With girly hearts, frivolous stars and even childhood characters like Bambi, designers have certainly made a playful stamp on next season. The youthful trend was contrasted with transparency and patent leather at Burberry Porsum, a grunge charm at Yves Saint Laurent and midnight black at Givenchy.

From left to right: Saint Laurent, Burberry Prorsum and Givenchy Also seen at: Hermès, Lanvin, Kenzo, Paul & Joe

OVERSIZED SHOULDERS

For his first show as Balenciaga's Creative Director, Alexander Wang presented coats and shortened jackets with large, rounded shoulders in homage to the oversized cuts from the era of Cristobal Balenciaga, founder of the celebrated fashion house established in the 1930s. The look carefully softens strict winter silhouettes, also seen on the Proenza Schouler and Gucci catwalks.

From left to right: Gucci, Proenza Schouler and Balenciaga Also seen at: Givenchy, Carven, Alexander Wang, Kenzo

BEAUTY OF THE DAY

Fur on bare skin, sheer, lingerie details and vinyl trench coats make up the tarnished wardrobes of the 2013 bourgeoisie. The look brings to mind Catherine Deneuve's character in the film Beauty of the Day, directed by French filmmaker Luis Bu単uel, who captured a time when clothes themselves could embody insatiable desires.

From left to right: Marc Jacobs, Burberry Prorsum and Prada Also seen at: Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Versace, Rag & Bone

TOMBOY

With a retro touch and an air of nonchalance, the feminine-masculine look for next winter seems to have been influenced by Gavroche from Les Misérables. The menswear influences took center stage at many shows for Fall/Winter 2013-2014.At Giorgio Armani blazers without sleeves were worn over velvet high-waisted pants, and at Ralph Lauren Magdalena Frackowiak sported a black cap worn to the side, an oversized blouse under a men's style vest, and pants tucked into boots. The trend was also see at Comme des Garçons where a retro suit was folded, pleated and transformed into an homage to the great Anna Piaggi.

From left to right: Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren and Comme des Garçons

MOHAIR

One of the driving fibers for next winter, this fur alternative with its soft blur gives a certain serenity to every silhouette, smoothing contours and surrounding the body in a stylish haze. When worked in volumes as seen at Alexander Wang and Emporio Armani, its feather weight composition helps avoid creating overly heavy shapes. At Balmain, mohair was paired over shiny pants, playing with the contrast between the creamy, soft tops and lacquered pants.

From left to right: Alexander Wang, Balmain and Emporio Armani Also seen at CĂŠline, Louis Vuitton, Sonia Rykiel, Anthony Vaccarello

METALLIC MESH

Seen at Anthony Vaccarello, ChloĂŠ and Paco Rabbanne, a medieval trend for next season has developed, featuring armor-inspired mesh pieces. Far from weighing down the look, however, this mesh delicately dresses the chest, hips and legs, hiding parts of the female body, yet subtly revealing others, elusively hinting at nudity.

From left to right: ChloĂŠ, Anthony Vaccarello and Paco Rabanne

1940S

1940s icons Lauren Bacall, Ingrid Bergman, Veronica Lake and Katherine Hepburn were honored in the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 collections, especially those shown in Milan. Honing soft shoulders, nipped waists, rounded hips and lowered necklines, designers emulated the hourglass silhouette on their runways, and proved its eternally seductive power.

From left to right: Prada, Bottega Veneta and Gucci Also seen at: Christian Dior, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera

POWDER PINK COATS

A poetic breeze floated through the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 collections. As designers used vibrant colors for their dresses and pants, their coats hit the runways in softer, delicate colors like powder pink. Sweet and angelic, the English Rose hues transport us to a world of romance and whimsy for next season.

From left to right: Christian Dior, Miu Miu and Carven Also seen at Chanel, Mulberry, Nina Ricci, Rodarte

LEATHER HEAD-TO-TOE

When it comes to leather and skins for next season, head-to-toe crocodile is the way to go. Next winter tames this wildly luxurious trend and succumbs to its seductive style. Wear crocodile leather in its natural form, as seen at Hermès and Prada, or in creamy pastels like the croco seen at Louis Vuitton.

From left to right: Louis Vuitton, Prada and Hermès Also seen at: Burberry Prorsum, Jean Paul Gaultier, Diane von Furstenberg

TAILORING

Next winter will see girls stealing their boyfriends' suits, and quite possibly their fathers' as well as oversized and pin-striped versions hit the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 runways. While mafia inspirations wereseen at Stella McCartney and Yohji Yamamoto, Maison Martin Margiela also picked up the trend with suits reminiscent of the those worn in The Great Gatsby by F. Scott Fitzgerald.

From left to right: Yohji Yamamoto, Stella McCartney and Maison Martin Margiela Also seen at: Ralph Lauren,Vivienne Westwood, Emanuel Ungaro

CAMOUFLAGE

It seemed to be a fad the last season, but for the winter clothes it has been tranformed into a more evening and luxury interpretations.

Inspired by the army's rigour, silhouettes are stricter and designs feature the military's famous camouflage print in various forms. The fashion pack saw it in fur at Michael Kors, silver and purple at at Christopher Kane and crackled at Alexander Wang.

From left to right: Michael Kors, Alexander Wang and Christopher Kane

SAILOR BOY

The fashion set pledges itself to the Marine cause in navy blue and reefer jackets for Fall/Winter 2013-2014, and accessorizes with the iconic Marine uniform cap for those winter months spent island hopping and soaking up some sun on the yacht deck.

From left to right: H&M, Ralph Lauren and Emilio Pucci

GLOBAL TRENDS AND LA RINASCENTE STRATEGY

MEGA TRENDS «New money» & BRIC countries Sean Brodrick writes:The term "nouveau riche," or "new money," refers to people who, through rapid acquisition of wealth, now have the ability to buy things that were previously out of their reach.

In the U.S., it applies to individuals. But in Asia, it applies to entire nations .

This interesting trends brings up incredible investment opportunities in European countries, especially France and Italy, specialized in apparel and tailoring.

There are now 18,000 centa-millionaires in the region covering South-East Asia, China and Japan. This is more than North America, which has 17,000, and Western Europe with 14,000.

By 2016, Ledbury Research expects that this region will have extended its lead, with 26,000 centamillionaires, compared with 21,000 in North America and 15,000 in Western Europe.

On a country-by-country basis, the US will still dominate in 2016, with 17,100 centa-millionaires, but China will be catching up fast with numbers set to double from current levels to 14,000.

Just looking at the wealthiest in some emerging markets, you can see the sectors where they are generating their wealth include natural resources, manufacturing or construction.

Western economies are flatlining (not that you need to be reminded). Meanwhile, amongst the BRIC nations, business is booming.

Brazil, Russia, India and China are home to 42% of the world’s population – and that percentage is growing daily. Their economies are growing too, and rapidly: by 2050 some are predicting that these 4 economies will be the world’s biggest. Rapidly growing economies with rapidly growing populations: it’s a perfect scenario for businesses.

TRENDS That bring tourists to shop to Europe 1. The hunt for value: People are still buying watches, clothing and handbags. What’s different is that because of the global crisis now they are looking at the price tag, and finding it more than worth their while to shop well beyond the usual retail suspects. Now people concern buying goods with high values in the countries of origins with a lower price, therefore ensuring themselves that they are authetic and saving money.

2. The desire for the exceptional: With luxury purchases becoming more deliberate, consumers expect more from luxury.They want more made-to-order products and more services tailored to their needs. About 30 percent of Americans, Europeans, and Japanese say they are most likely to pay full price for an item that is classic – and more than half of Chinese, perhaps because they are less likely to have such items in the house already.

While most people are searching for sales, some luxury consumers are going in the other direction. They see more expensive products, especially the kinds of things that can never be bought on discount, as more valuable and a good “lasting” investment (not an indulgence). In China, for example, more than half of luxury good buyers also told us the more expensive the product, the better they consider its quality.

3. The search for meaning::growing awareness and desire for responsible consumption. Many consumers purchasing luxury goods think it is distasteful to show them off or feel guilty about these purchases (over 40% of consumers in US and Europe, and over half of luxury consumers in China). Customers appreciate a tradition or a story behind a product: it makes them feel more particular.

«NOUVEAU RICHE» INFLUENCED TREND DIRECTION Already identifiable as one of the most influential of the trends for the season, the theme not only represents a recognisable shift in underlying lifestyle, economic, political and design aesthetics, but also a trend direction that has instant appeal and commercial success written throughout. The return of luxury and the emergence of new more affluent economies has resulted in a softening of the more austere luxury codes of recent years and the introduction of an opulence that has a real sense of modernity.

Colour: Focussing on soft buttery metallics as the base tones and pops of modern jewel colours to provide the accents, both elements are equally important for providing this essential modern luxury colour palette. Carried through both mens & womenswear, metallics can be of varying intensity, sheen and colours, whilst darker tones seen within digital & foil prints to provide additional playful trompe l'oeil touches, whereas a softer modern palette are omnipresent across the whole theme and prevent it looking too ostentatious.

Return to Luxury: One of the most important references and long term impacts is the 'return to luxury' after several years of austere tones and sense of hardship. For fashion this is epitomised through a soft palette with jewel brights and modern yet luxurious fabrics & embellishments combined with simple silhouettes to provide a more directional look.

Emerging Economies: As identified in ‘Guide to the Season’ for this trend direction it is no longer possible just to assume that because it’s British or Western that people from the emerging economies will want to buy it. So from advertising campaigns, to catwalk shows, to the original design influences, a new East rather than West aesthetic runs throughout.

Younger Undertones: Despite this direction being instantly identifiable as an easy to adapt and commercially strong theme, it is important to note that the reason it looks so fresh is because of all of its younger and more directional undertones. So from all-in-one playsuits and clutch bags for men to notched-up metallics that has not been seen since Seventies, this theme has a striking sense of modernity throughout.

Reported a record turnover of 462 million euro in 2012 5,75 % increase compared to 2011 Double-digit performance from the main store in Milan (sales increased by 10%) PLANS:

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Elevate the store globally and make it well-known in Asia

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10% more space to its store in Milan

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14,500 m2 store in Rome is due to open by Spring 2015

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A further store is scheduled to open in Venice

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Expected the takeover to break even within eight years

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No changes in the management team

Central Retail Group strategy is based on the following trends: •

The new rich target group (Chinese, Russian, Japanese customers), based on Global Blue statistics, switzerland company specialised in tax refund

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Italy as their major shopping destination

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The main groups of customers using tax free options are Chinese (17% ) and russians (15%)

In 2010 every tourist in Europe spent on average in tax free purchases: 1.

Chinese: 744 €

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US tourist: 554 €

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Japanese: 521 €

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Russian: 368 € Which in countries famous for shopping tours (Italy, France) achieved the average of 1300 € per tourist

THE GAP •

The brands in La Rinascente fit one to another and all together offer quite a complete selection of clothes, acessories, jewellery, beauty products and many others for well-being and house keeping.

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The store successfully reaches all the customer’s groups and continuous to elove their strategy towards the «nouveau riches» target.

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One big gap of the store is their young-oriented zone, the building in Santa Radegonda. The company has to concentrate more attention and capital there, invest in the interior and fixtures (which do reach the level o the international department stores). The selection of brands has to be based on the nowadays interests and trends among the younger generation. It also has to be promoted and announced to the clients.

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Further to this an important offer missing in the store is the eveningwear and «new designers» departments. La Rinascente aims to achieve an international target with big spending power representing the most important, famous brands as well as the trend-setting particular designers on the nowadays fashion scale. «New designers» divisions are probably a better choice for concept and extraordinary multibrand stores that have fashion-forward and trend-setting customers as a main target group. Since Central Retail Group announced their focus on «nouveau riches» the eveningwear department would be a defenitely interesting proposal for them. Even though Italians do not have such a big tradition of wearing the evening gowns, special ceremonies definitely need specific garments. Plus, a big number of affluent customers from Eastern countries and USA have a trend of travelling to Europe in a search of clothes for special occasions.

SELECTION •

The section will be opened with 5 brands.

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Marchesa, Elie Saab, Vera Wang, Herve Leger by Max Azria and Jenny Packham

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Each brand follows the upcoming trends, this season they are divided in 3 directions: boyish (like tomboy, tailoring and oversized shoulders), street (obviously grunge, youthful prints, camouflage, exotic fur which can look stylish worn with street and casual garments) and refined elegance (1940s, powder, metallic, navy, night owl etc.). Apparently only the last category can fit the sector off evening wear, where feminninity is the characterising aspect.

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The selected brands represent different clasters of target, remaining on high-level and proposing from exclusive to more affordable garments. This mix also achieves different style and taste preferences: classical gowns from Marchesa, most feminnine Elie Saab, oriental Vera Wang, seductive Herve Leger and graceful Jenny Packham.

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Marchesa and Jenny Packham do not design the pre-fall collections therefore it will not be included, only the main ones. The same for Vera Wang and Elie Saab, whose Prefall collections are something between day and evening, which does not match the section proposals. Only a few dresses from Elie Saab show and Herve Leger will be included in the buying orders.

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The brands will be arranged and re-combined after the analysis in the end of the season.

3rd FLOOR

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Classic and casual womenswear

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Prestigious and luxurous shoe department

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Multibrands area: 120%lino, Liviana Conti, Lacoste, Trussardi Jeans, Pure DKNY, DKNY, Comptoir des Cotonniers, Tommy Hilfinger, Marina Yachting

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Corners: Gerard Darel, Seventy, Fay, Burberry, Rarlph Lauren Blue, Escada, Versace Collection, Class Roberto Cavalli, Armani Collezzioni, Max Mara Studio

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Since it is the first floor representing womenswear customers get to, all the female target of La Rinascente passes by here. The big advantage of the allocation is that frequenters and curious tourists entering the store as a «must-visit» do not usually go up until here. Therefore the personnel can pay more attention and work with the actual target.

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Appart from the shoe department which gathers all the brands offering female footwear in La Rinascente, the clothes department has an older target then the other departments. The general style of the brands represented here is classical, casual and contemporary, nothing extravagant or street. «Mature Elite» is a main target of this department.

Evening wear though can target different groups together, here the division by age is more important (e.g., gilded elite and nouveau riche girls would probably buy the same type of dress for their graduation party). It also can exist as a separate department, like shoes, without fitting into the target and merchandise selection of the 3rd floor. As it was mentioned all the target groups pass by here, searching for shoes or getting upstairs, therefore the traffic of this floor is very high. This can guarantee the visibility of new department.

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The mature target explains a variety of sizing: from XS to XXL (in knitwear and t-shirts), from 38 to 48-50 (other)

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Mixed buying: basics and simple casual items (that are a big part of merchandise in a mixed area) are bought in depth, with different colours available; whereas more fashionable items (in corners of Versace, Roberto Cavalli etc.) represent buying concept in breadth

ESCADA

RALPH LAUREN blue label

BURBERRY

VERSACE COLLECTION

SEVENTY CASH DESK

CASH DESK

CLASS ROBERTO CAVALLI

FAY

GERARD DAREL

ARMANI COLLEZIONI MAX MARA STUDIO CASH DESK

SHOE DEPARTMENT

The evening wear section is supposed to be allocated in front of the shoe department, which is perfect if a customer needs to complete the outfit, and right close to Gerard Darel corner. The desposition all together will be visible from the escalator, bright and attractive for people passing by.

The selection of brands will include the main international designers specialised in eveningwear and accessories, like Zac Posen, Marchesa, Badgley Mischka, Naeem Khan,Monique Lhuillier, Roland Mouret, J. Mendel, Dean Quinn, Azzaro, David Koma, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Elie Saab, Herve Leger, Jenny Packham, Matthew Williamson, Dina BarEl, Zuhair Murad, Basix Black Label None of this brands have been represented before in La Rinascente.

MARCHESA

INFORMATION Founded in 2004 by British fashion designers Georgina Chapman (wife of Hollywood producer Harvey Weinstein) and Keren Craig, the Marchesa label is a luxury brand inspired by the eccentric Italian socialite Marchesa Luisa Casati’s mantra of a person “being a living work of art”. Marchesa is best known for its red carpet worthy evening gowns, with their signature vintage meets Asian style that combines intricate details such as embroidery, beaded embellishments and prints. Among the stylish celebrity fans of the brand are Jennifer Lopez, Anne Hathaway, Sienna Miller and Eva Longoria. Recently, Marchesa launched Marchesa Notte a sister brand that offers affordable casual clothes.

Marchesa (couture) Notte by Marchesa (diffusion) Marchesa Bridal

Marchesa recently launched a handbag line, Wedding dresses and partnered with Lenox to launch dinnerware.

Most recently Marchesa has collaborated with Le Métier de Beauté to bring a cosmetics line to the masses featuring the palettes of designers Chapman & Craig.

•

• •

• •

Marchesa was featured on the cover of Vogue magazine's September issue, the same issue was the subject of the 2009 documentary The September Issue starring Anna Wintour.

Marchesa's Georgina Chapman recently appeared in an episode of Gossip Girl with Blake Lively.

Marchesa was also featured on the front cover of the New York Times during New York Fall Fashion Week on February 19, 2010.

Marchesa also designed the wedding dress of Nicole Richie who married Joel Madden in December 2010 Marchesa also designed Lebanese singer Elissa's dress for the World Music Awards 2010 in Monaco.

MARKETING MIX AND POSITIONING Marchesa price range •

ready-to-wear starts from 1900 €

•

couture starts from 4000 € and can go up to 14000 € for an evening gown and 20000 € for a wedding dress

•

Notte by Marchesa price range starts from 680 € and can go up to 2000 €.

Marchesa does not have any stand alone boutiques and does not offer e-commerce on its website; however, the selling channels for Marchesa first and second line include both high end retailers in United States and 34 other countries internationally and online retailers.

Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman in United States, Harrods and Harvey Nichols in London, Vakko in Turkey, Boutique 1 and Harvey Nichols in Dubai, Podium in Russia, Alothman in Kuwait, Holt Renfrew in Canada, Lane Crawford and Joyce Boutique in Hong Kong and Villa Moda in both Kuwait and Bahrain to name few; online high end retailers that carry Marchesa include Net-a-Porter, Neiman Marcus, Shopbop, Saks Fifth Avenue and Harrods among others which offer international shipping for more than 170 countries worldwide.

Marchesa does not advertise nor does it create photo or video ad campaigns, instead its main promotional tool is the coverage of high profile celebrities wearing Marchesa designs at high profile gala and red-carpet events like the Oscars, Golden Globes, Grammy Awards, Met Gala and etc to spread the word.

Marchesa has positioned itself as a high end couture brand that specializes in creating utmost feminine and glamorous evening wear with exceptionally unique embroideries. One of the major differentiating factors of Marchesa creations is their unique signature embroidered/crystallized fabrics. Celebrities wearing Marchesa designs have repeatedly been listed as the best dressed of high profile events and Marchesa has become a favorite among celebrities and critics alike.

FW 2013-2014 Mood/Style: An Eighteenth century style and, in particular, the "painting of Maria Teresa of Vallabriga on horseback" signed by Francisco Goya, inspired the creations of an opulent, refined, and romantic collection. The dresses are a jubilation of volumes, drapery, and flounces that are embellished with golden, floral and regal embroidery. The silhouettes bare the shoulders and exalt feminine shapes, also exploiting transparencies and the luminous reflections of the fabrics Lengths: midi and maxi Colours: vermilion, powder, gold, black, white, cement, pearl grey, bordeaux, violet, fuchsia Fabrics: satin, taffeta, silk, chiffon, organza, tulle, shantung Shapes: hourglass, tapered, with overlapping flounces, mermaid, corolla, draped Accessories: sandals with ankle-straps, embroidered pumps with ankle-straps, stiff purses with appliquĂŠs

ELIE SAAB

INFORMATION Born in Lebanon, Elie Saab is a self taught fashion talent – and in my view, a fashion genius.

Sometimes known as “ES”, Saab launched his Beirut-based fashion label when he was 18 years old. Of course he has workshops in Milan and Paris, but his main workshop remains in Beirut. ES became an overnight success after he became the first Lebanese designer to dress an Oscar winner. The historical award winner Halle Berry became the first African-American to win the Best Actress award. She won for her role as Leticia Musgrove in Monster’s Ball. Berry wore a burgundy gown by Saab to the 2002 Academy Awards and wore the gown the way only Halle Berry could.

Besides being an established designer for royalty – Queen Rania of Jordan and Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana of Thailand, just to name a couple – the celebrity list he’s dressed includes from the A-LIST celebs like: Amanda Seyfried, Angelina Jolie, Anna Kendrick and of course the newly acclaimed Empress of the World Beyoncé.

In 2010, Saab dressed 102 international celebrities for key global events, up from 40 in 2009. The figure for 2011 up until March was 88. His creations can be found all over the world, with boutiques located in Beirut, Paris and London.

Elie Saab has 60 retail outlets all over the world. His designs are sold in 22 countries. In 2011, Elie Saab launched his first fragrance "Le Parfum" which became an overnight bestseller in 15 countries, including the UAE. Haute Couture Ready-to-wear Wedding line (with Elie by Elie Saab diffusion line) Accessories Perfume and Beauty Line (Le Perfum) Always on the move, Elie Saab’s style is a unique fusion of western and eastern cultures, renewing itself with each and every collection. He prefers materials such as yaffeta, organza, sable and satin paired with more fluid and light fabrics for aerial effect or fine materials like embroideries that highlight a feminine silhouette.

MARKETING MIX AND POSITIONING Elie Saab price range •

ready-to-wear starts from 1800 €

•

couture starts from 7600 € and can go up to 20000 € and more for personalized dresses. This items can not be found sold online

•

wedding dresses start from 6000€. Elie by Elie Saab is a more affordable line

•

accessories price range starts from 570 € (casual shoes) and can go up to 7900 € (crocodile bag)

•

beauty products start from 27 € (body lotion) and goes up to 85 € (perfume) Two couture collections, Pre-Fall, Restort and two main collections each year. The FW 2013-2014 is expected to be out after the resort of 2014.

Company sells their products via DOS, Concessions, Franshicing and Licensing contracts. The flagship stpre is situated in Dubai Mall. The brand is not present in department stores, what is still in the company’s plans Based on Haute Couture and entering the yacht, hotels, etc. fields of their affluent target, clearly defines brand’s positioning as a luxury high-end company.

FW 2013-2014 Mood/Style: An Eighteenth century style and, in particular, the "painting of Maria Teresa of Vallabriga on horseback" signed by Francisco Goya, inspired the creations of an opulent, refined, and romantic collection. The dresses are a jubilation of volumes, drapery, and flounces that are embellished with golden, floral and regal embroidery. The silhouettes bare the shoulders and exalt feminine shapes, also exploiting transparencies and the luminous reflections of the fabrics This season, Elie Saab reined in the sparkle to deliver some of the season's best red carpet looks and — surprsingly — best daywear. Done, with the exception of some yellow pieces, in a dark monochrome palette, stand-outs included draped fitted tops, pencil skirts paired with paneled cropped jackets, a cocktail dress with a full skirt and trim trousers. For eveningwear, the designer was at his best when he used sheer fabrics as his base for embellished looks, opening up his collection to a whole new, more youthful demographic.

Lengths: midi and maxi Colours: pure yellow, burgundy purple, navy blue, aquamarine blue, black monochrome palette Fabrics: satin, taffeta, silk, wool, viscose, tulle, coloured fur Shapes: fitted and shaped to the body, round skirts,maxi dresses with steaming skirts Accessories: laced-up boots, sandals with straps, shoes with ankle straps, clutches, doctor bags

VERA WANG

INFORMATION Vera Ellen Wang (born June 27, 1949) is known for her wide range of haute couture bridesmaid gowns and wedding gown collections, as well as for her clientele of elite ladies figure skaters, designing dresses for competitions and exhibitions.

Vera Ellen Wang was born and raised in New York City, and is of Chinese descent. Her parents were born in Shanghai, China, and came to the United States in the mid-1940s. She graduated from The Chapin School in 1967, attended the University of Paris and earned a degree in art history from Sarah Lawrence College. Wang began figure skating at the age of six and competed at the 1968 U.S. Figure Skating Championships. When she failed to make the US Olympics team, she entered the fashion industry.

Beginning in 1970, Wang was a senior fashion editor for Vogue but left Vogue after being turned down for the editor-inchief position currently filled by Anna Wintour and joined Ralph Lauren as a design director for two years.

In 1990, she opened her own design salon in the Carlyle Hotel in New York that features her trademark bridal gowns.

She has since opened bridal boutiques in New York, London, Tokyo and Sydney, Australia.

By balancing modern designs with traditional elegance, Wang has acquired a large following, particularly in Hollywood.

Her fashions are frequently worn to film premieres and award ceremonies by a number of high-profile actresses, including Halle Berry, Goldie Hawn, Charlize Theron, Anjelica Huston, and Meg Ryan. In 2001, Wang launched her first fragrance and published a highly anticipated wedding guide. Over the years her business has continued to grow. It now includes lingerie, jewelry, and products for the home. In 2006, Wang reached a deal with Kohl's, a chain of department stores, to produce a less expensive line of ready-to-wear clothing exclusively for them called Simply Vera.

MARKETING MIX AND POSITIONING Ready-to-Wear collection Bridal (with diffusion line of bridal dresses White) Simply Vera (sold exclusively by Kohl’s) Lavender Label (2008-2009) Accessories Fragrance Jewelry: Vera Wang Love Eyewear Houseware collection and Crystal Collection Vera Wang is one of a few brands positioning diffusion lines at such low prices. Her style is maintained throughout all the dicisions she works on. Nevertheless, pricing achieves a huge range of spending possibilities: from mass market targets till most affluent women in the world ordering and customizing their wedding dresses.

Vera Wang price range •

Ready-to-wear starts from 490 € goes up to 1900 €

•

Bridal starts from 4000 € and go up to 9000 €; for White line 1400€ - 2000€

•

Simply Vera price range starts from 18 € and can go up to 170 €

•

Jewellery collection from 1200€ up to 18000€

FW 2013-2014 Mood/style: “It was time to go back to showing what we’re capable of, which is real construction,” said Vera Wang backstage after her fall runway show at Lincoln Center on Tuesday morning. “We used quality fabrics and techniques to create a certain volume and shape; all of these things suddenly felt very new to me.” “Back” also referred to a time in period dress where bustles (revisited as amplified peplums) and grandiose robes (seen here as diaphanous, elongated jackets) were the order of the day. But despite loosely traveling back in time, Wang’s vision came across as strikingly forward looking. “The attitude has to be now,” she said.

Lengths: Mini, midi and maxi Colours: graphic color-blocking of black, grey shades and graphite beige; textures with magenta, lilac and tangerine jacquards Fabrics: silk, chiffon, satin, fur, wool, viscose, sequins Shapes: oversize trapeze volumes, clear hourglass and tulip volumes, sculptural shapes of colour-blocked dresses, relaxed pants Accessories: suede beige and leather black shoes and boots with a wide strap on tha ankle; gloves of the same colours until the shoulders

JENNY PACKHAM

INFORMATION Jenny Packham (born 11 March 1965) is a British fashion designer known primarily for her bridal gowns and ready-towear collections.

Packham studied Fashion at Southampton Solent University before graduating with a First Class Honours degree from Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design. In November 2008, she was awarded an Honorary Doctorate degree from Southampton Solent University, in her home city of Southampton.

The Jenny Packham label was founded in 1988 designing bridal dresses and evening wear. In 2008 Packham started a range of Bridal accessories to accompany her gowns. In 2010-11 Packham introduced a lingerie range and a ready-towear accessories range. In 2013 the Jenny Packham brand will celebrate its 25th Anniversary.

Packham used to show in London. However, from September 2010 she has shown at New York Fashion Week with celebrities like Mandy Moore, Emma Roberts and Dita Von Teese in attendance.

Packham's clients include Angelina Jolie, Dita Von Teese, Miley Cyrus, Kate Hudson, Florence Welch, Jennifer Aniston, Eva Longoria, Reese Witherspoon, Kate Winslet, Cameron Diaz, Jennifer Lopez and The Duchess of Cambridge.

Packham has designed items for the James Bond movies Die Another Day and Casino Royale.

Packham worked with Academy Award nominated Patricia Field, regularly dressing Kim Catrall in Sex and the City series and the movie. Packham also worked with Field when the latter styled her A/W 2007 collection in Milan. Packham's dresses have also been used in the episodes "Goodbye, Columbia", "The Jewel of Denial" and "Gone Maybe Gone" of Gossip Girl.

Ready-to-Wear Bridal gowns and Accessories Accessories

MARKETING MIX AND POSITIONING

Jenny Packham designs high-end special occasion gowns which can be described with one word as «graceful». Her dresses, even though they can not be marked trend-setting and fashion forward, received very few critics from press. They transform the whole image into something royal. The target here is not very much clear: the dresses can be worn by women of different ages, what is similar to Oscar de la Renta.

They are more affordable then Elie Saab and Marchesa gowns but still belong to luxury segment.

The brand has 4 boutiques for each product category, 3 in London and 1 in Paris.

Jenny Packham price range •

Ready-to-wear starts from 370 € (for tops) goes up to 4200 € (for exclusive dresses)

•

Accessories are from 180€ up to 1200€

FW 2013-2014 Mood/Style: Jenny Packham is known for her scintillating red carpet gowns, and brought many show stopping creations to the forefront for Fall 2013. The intellectual salons of 17th century Paris were her inspiration, particularly the rich tones and hues of the era. Cinnamon, midnight blues, scarlet, lilac, and opulent opals were seen on knee and floor length cocktails, cropped tops worn with matching ankle length pants, and dazzling overcoats. Models with slow gaits flaunted floor length dresses, peppered with sequins, beads, and embellishments. Tulle overlays on A-line frocks slightly masked the brilliance of stone encrusted bodices; mesh covered cut outs and any suggestions of flesh. A few noteworthy looks: an embellished black turtleneck dress, with beads dotting the side, a silk emerald gown with a high slit, and the conclusion: a frothy mint green dress, finished in delicious tulle Lengths: floor length gowns, knee and below the knee cocktails, ankle skimming trousers Colors: mauve, gold, scarlet red, blush, nude, black, opal, emerald green, lilac, burch, midnight blues Fabrics: silk, chiffon, tulle, mesh Shapes: A line maxi skirts, cropped tops with cropped pants, scoop necks, hourglass shapes Accessories: nude and black Christian Louboutin sling backs, stone encrusted bracelets, compact clutches finished with stones, delicate hair ribbons, cocktail rings

BUYING CONCEPT AND ASSORTMENT PLANNING

•

Herve Leger is excluded from the initial assortment: its style is not coherent with the other brands

•

Ready-to-wear and Several Couture items

•

Breadth: diversity in SKUs (products are unique and exclusive)

•

Importance: Fashion content and style

•

Items representative for the brand

•

Reduced sizing chart (items are expensive and can not be sold in all sizes)

•

Eveningwear brands work with classical embellishments, fabrics and colours. It does not follow the RTW trends. Whereas Elie Saab and Vera Wang sometimes apply trend colours and textures, Marchesa and Jenny Packham are more classical and follow the traditions, like tailoring brands.

•

Some brands proposed more summerish outfits, which will be not included into the order (the target is not only mediterranian customers)

•

The collection is based on the most iconic and traditional for the brands items and motives as well as trends based on the research of the demographics of the target.

•

Remarkable, feminnine, recognisable, elegant and unique

FALL WINTER 2013-2014 •

The section sizing, buying concept and assortment do not match the rest of the department: its a corner with different purpose and a more varied target.

•

Themes and styles matching the «special occasion» direction of the section

•

Starting with main collections (Marchesa and Jenny Packham do not design the pre-fall: Vera Wang and Elie Saab ones do not match the occasion of use of the section)

•

Planning by brand: best-sellers, iconic motives

•

Inside the brand: planning by materials and colours

•

Mainly core products, main category-dresses without complementary: customers visit this section with a specific aim/need

•

Iconic colours and fits of the brand, as well as classical «evening» colours: black, beige, red, white

•

Different price range: from exclusive (Marchesa and Elie Saab Couture) to more affordable (Vera Wang)

•

Reduced size range: expensive and particular items, therefore the size has to correspond to the fit

•

Many SKUs: these brands usually manufacture garments in one colour/material since they are not easy to sell

•

Covering different directions inside one style and occasion of use: very special Marchesa, more seductive Elie Saab, oriental Vera Wang and royal and elegant Jenny Packham

•

Accessories from Elie Saab and Marchesa: evening shoes and clutches which can be mixed and matched with many garments inside the collection and with other brands as well

INDEPENDENT ASSORTMENT PLANNING

FOCUS ON SPECIAL OCCASION

PLANNING

BY BRAND

MAIN COLLECTIONS

MATERIALS AND COLOURS CORE PRODUCTS

ICONIC

BESTSELLERS

EXCLUSIVITY

DIVERSITY

1 item per 1 SKU

REDUCED SIZINGS

DIVERSE PRICE RANGE AFFORDABLE

CLASSIC

EXCLUSIVE ICONIC

ROYAL

STYLE ELEGANT

ORIENTAL SEDUCTIVE

ICONIC ITEMS •

The four brands selected do not have any acknowledged iconic products.

•

Elie Saaab have been producing the same types of bags for a couple of seasons, that will probably evolve into the iconic ones in the future.

•

There are still symbolic patterns and colours for these brands that have become a recognisable signature and are must buys for all seasons.

Marchesa

Red, Burgundy and Black Colours Baroque motives

Elie Saab

Round middle-length skirts Embroideries overlaying lace Maxi wrap skirts

Elie Saab

Designs of bags are repeated each season with slight changes

Jenny Packham

Shaping crystals aplique Tight maxi dresses with scales lengthwise

HEROES Heroes can influence on buying decisions for eveningwear in terms of colours, though the pattern which are in trend do not have importance fore eveningwear brands

TOTAL LOOKS: Gray, Ivory, Black Shades of Navy and Blue

Latte 101

Oxford blue 111

Antique White 102

Midnight blue 110

Powder blue 106

Black 500

Gray 105

Persian blue 109

TREND ITEMS

Navy

Elie Saab Jenny Packham

Night owl

Marchesa Elie Saab

Night owl

Vera Wang

Ecru

Elie Saab Jenny Packham

Metallic Mesh

Jenny Packham Vera Wang

1940S

Marchesa Elie Saab

1940S

Elie Saab

1940S

Vera Wang Jenny Packham

BUDGET ALLOCATION

Fall/Winter CALENDAR NY

PARIS

LA RINASCENTE DELIVERIES

FEBRUARY

MARCH

JUNE

PARIS

LA RINASCENTE (COUTURE deliveries)

LA RINASCENTE

JULY

SEPTEMBER

DECEMBER

JANUARY

FEBRUARY

MARCH

LA RINASCENTE LA RINASCENTE LA RINASCENTE (Sales -30%) (Sales -50%)

VERA WANG

12

2nd quarter

evaluation of perfomances

5

5

evaluation of the season

JENNY PACKHAM

12

2nd quarter

evaluation of perfomances

5

5

evaluation of the season

MARCHESA

13

2nd quarter

evaluation of perfomances

5

5

evaluation of the season

End of month

evaluation of perfomances

5

5

evaluation of the season

evaluation of perfomances

5

5

evaluation of the season

ELIE SAAB

COUTURE

6

1st quarter

2-3 quarter

TOTAL SELL-IN 241284 € 104804 €

44420 €

42700 €

41360 €

8000 €

ELIE SAAB

JENNY PACKHAM

VERA WANG

MARCHESA

OTB (ELIE SAAB HC)

3,3 % 17,1 % 43,4 % 17,7 %

18,4 %

The budget is divided in 5 parts: 4 ready-to-wear collections 1 OTB which is planned to be spent on 2 dresses from the upcoming Elie Saab Haute Couture collection. Reorderings are not planned, since the brands do not propose basics/ carryovers to be delivered, do not accept orders outside the dates of ordering.

1. The main part of the budget is spent on Elie Saab, a very successful brand among the target customers. Its last collection is supposed to deliver good results. Further to this it has a very selective, almost exclusive distribution (and not achievable for Milan) which is a huge plus.

The other three brands are presented in smaller amounts: 2. Jenny Packham is less important for Eastern and Asian clientele, though it is an opportunity for the brand to engage more customers through multibrand format and for the section to offer a more elegant look.

3. Vera Wang is a world-famous bridal designer. Her collections are usually less formal.

The budget spent represents the smaller amount because of the lower prices and of categories bought: tops, skirts, blouses,- a more «easy» evening look.

4. Marchesa delivers very special occasions gowns which are not the best-sellers. Though it is a brand with their clientele and famous aroud the world for the «red carpet». It is bought in this quantity in order to complete the image and assortment of the section and not fail the seasonal plans.

APPAREL 214324 € 167464 € 10950 € 8140 € DRESSES

TOPS

2,8 3,1

SKIRTS

0,5 1,2 1,4 2,6

7380 € 6800 € 6330 € 3360 € JUMPSUITS BLOUSES

PANTS

TROUSERS

2800 € 1100 € JACKETS

3,4 4,5

69,4

MANTELET

The focus of the assortment planning is the occasion of use: eveningwear. Therefore the main part of the budget goes to dresses (almost 70%).

Jenny Packham and Marchesa have few garments from a different product category, but can be matched with other brands and fit in the assortment. Marchesa has been bought in 1-2 different sizes per 1 SKU in order to cover the range and stay inside the planned budget. Jenny Packham sleeveless fitted garments can not be offered in big sizes. The dresses that can be used by a wider target are bought in a full size range.

Vera Wang, as it has been already mentioned, has a more casual approach and represents a wider categories’ selection. Here the buying concept includes many product categories that go as cocktail looks, less formal than other collections in the section.

Elie Saab designed many evening dresses which are selected in a wide range for the section. The rest of his products can not be identified neither as cocktail nor as special ceremony garments, but as smart casual which does not fit the section and therefore has not been bought. Tight transparent dresses are bought only in small sizes, for the expensive ones 1 SKU per 1 size, covering the chart, even if it stays in the range of small sizes (DRESS1-38, DRESS2-40...)

Fur mantelet and jacket were bought to support the seasonality and luxurity of the department.

Coloured fur has not been chosen (Elie Saab) as it can not be matched with the rest of the buying concept.

ACCESSORIES 26960 € 5180 €

21780 €

CLUTCHES

SHOES

2,1

9,0

In order to complete the offer the buying selection also includes footwear and handbags.

Marchesa presented very matchable and multi-purpose shoes in classical eveningwear colours. To cover the entire sizings of the most popular colours and materials (black leather and silk) 37-38 sizes have been bought for both types and less popular -one size for each (36-black silk, 36, 5-black leather, etc.)

Two clutches were chosen that have the same motif of the Marchesa dresses and can be matched with plain garments from other brands.

Elie Saab had a more contemporary offer, both for shoes, boots and clutches, that complete the variety. Again, they can be matched with many items and can attract clients who did not consider shopping in this section.

BUDGET ALLOCATION: BRANDS AND CATEGORIES APPAREL € Brand MARCHESA ELIE SAAB VERA WANG JENNY PACKHAM OTB (Elie Saab Couture) TOTALS

Dresses 25760 76044 15880 41780 8000 167464

Tops

Blouses

Skirts Pants Trousers Jumpsuits Jackets Mantelet

10950

2140 3220 1440

1720 5220 1200

3360 6330

10950

6800

8140

6330

2580 4800

2800 1100

3360

7380

2800

1100

TOTAL € 28340 90864 42700 44420 8000 214324

% of total Sell-in Brand MARCHESA ELIE SAAB VERA WANG JENNY PACKHAM OTB (Elie Saab Couture) TOTALS

Dresses 10,7 31,5 6,6 17,3 3,3 69,4

Tops 0,0 0,0 4,5 0,0 0,0 4,5

Blouses 0,0 0,9 1,3 0,6 0,0 2,8

Skirts Pants Trousers Jumpsuits Jackets Mantelet 0,0 0,7 2,2 0,5 0,0 3,4

0,0 0,0 2,6 0,0 0,0 2,6

0,0 1,4 0,0 0,0 0,0 1,4

1,1 2,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 3,1

0,0 1,2 0,0 0,0 0,0 1,2

0,0 0,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5

APPAREL 11,7 37,7 17,7 18,4 3,3 88,8

BUDGET ALLOCATION: MARCHESA

BUDGET ALLOCATION: ELIE SAAB

BUDGET ALLOCATION: VERA WANG

BUDGET ALLOCATION: JENNY PACKHAM

BUYING SIMULATION

MARCHESA • • • • • • •

Expensive items Small quantity (very special occasion garments) Small size range Different colours and motives Representative for the brand One items of one or similar SKU (due to high prices, specific garments which have similar designs in a product family)Big expenses per each item Main themes and colours of the brand

•

Accessories can be matched with the looks and other brands in the section as well Shoes are very classical and can suit almost every garment in each brand of the section, therefore the size range is wide

•

Need to be represented on separate fixtures, as highly exclusive, fragile and unique.

•

Gray 105

Red 115

Burgundy 117

Versailles

Floral Rococo

Baroque Embroidery

Black 500

Dress M/FW13/D/3/EM2/115 3,200€ 38, 42 Dress M/FW13/D/3/EM2/117 2920 € 38 Dress M/FW13/D/3 /EM2/500 3,320€ 40, 44 Dress M/FW13/D/3 /EM1/105 2360 40 Dress M/FW13/D1/3 /EM1/105 2,480€ 38, 42

Dress M/FW13/D/3/EM3/500 2480 38 Jumpsuit M/FW13/JMS/3/EM3/500 2580 40

Clutch M/FW13/C/3/ EM3/500 980€ 2 Clutch M/FW13/C/3 /EM2/115 800€ 1

Shoes M/FW13/S/3/105 370€ 36,5, 37(2), 38(2), 39 Shoes M/FW13/S/3/115 370€ 37, 38, 39

Shoes M/FW13/S/3/500 370€ 36, 37(2), 37,5, 38(3), 39, 40 Shoes M/FW13/S/9/500 400€ 36,5, 37(3), 37,5, 38(2), 39, 41

ELIE SAAB •

Fit different profiles of target

•

Highlight the feminninity and curves

•

Elaborated embroideries

•

Sizes depend on fits and wearability (Tight to the body are offered in small sizes)

•

Expensive items that have similar shape cover the sizing by offering 1-2 different sizes per each SKU

•

Variety of lengths

•

Seasonal and trendy colours

•

Suitable for bigger sizes

•

Brand’s signature dresses

•

Accessories that can fit many other looks, even of different occasions.

•

More trend- approach of buying: navy, ecru, 40s, «night owl» themes.

•

Iconic fits, like wrapped maxi skirts are bought in a wide range.

Latte 101

Cerulean 108

Midnight blue 110

Black 500

Tulle Embroidery

Embroidery on lace

Plum 121

Dark iris 122

Sequins aplique

Dress ES/FW13/D/35/110122 632 40, 42, 44(2), 46, 48, 50 Blouse ES/FW13/BL/3/110 260 38 (2), 40, 42 Trousers ES/FW13/TR/5/110 215 38, 40(2), 42(2), 44,46, 48 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/110 950€ 38, 40, 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 850 38, 40, 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 700 38, 40, 42(2), 44(2), 46, 48, 50 Blouse ES/FW13/BL/3/108 220 40, 42, 44(2), 46 Skirt ES/FW13/SK/4/108 420 38, 40,42, 44

Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 850 38, 40, 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 700 38, 40, 42(2), 44(2), 46, 48, 50 Blouse ES/FW13/BL/3/108 220 40, 42, 44(2), 46 Skirt ES/FW13/SK/4/108 420 38, 40,42, 44 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/121 700€ 38, 40,(2), 42(2), 44, 46 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/121 1,400€ 40(2), 42(2), 44(2), 46 Dress ES/FW13/D/3 /EM8/121 2,500€ 42

Dress ES/FW13/D/4/101 600€ 38(2), 40,(2), 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/101 2,000€ 38 Fur Jacket ES/FW13/JK/7/500 2800 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/SEQ1/500 40, 44 3480 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/EM8/500 2120 42, 46 Dress ES/FW13/D/34/EM8/500 980€ 38, 40,42(2)

Dress ES/FW13/D/3/SEQ1/500 2100 38, 42

Dress ES/FW13/D/3/SEQ1EM8/5 2,500€ 40, 44 Dress ES/FW13/D1/3/SEQ1/500 960 42, 44, 46

Dress ES/FW13/D/3/500 1600€ 40, 42(2), 44 Jumpsuit ES/FW13/JMS/3/500 1600€ 38, 40, 44

Clutch ES/FW13/C/9/101 310€ 2 Clutch ES/FW13/C/39/110 260€ 3

Clutch ES/FW13/C/9/SEQ1/110 380 2 Clutch ES/FW13/C/10/108 260 1

Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/108 520€ 37, 38 Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/500 520€ 36,5, 37(2), 38(3), 39, 40 Shoes ES/FW13/S/89/500 610 38, 39 Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/101 300€ 36, 37, 38, 38,5, 39 Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/500 300€ 36, 37(2), 37,5, 38(4), 38,5, 39(2), 40

VERA WANG • • •

• • • •

•

Less formal than other brands The brand did not introduce variable colours/material SKUs Many repetative textures, therefore the buying assortment will include just a few representative garments of each Matching items of different product categories Seasonal colours Suitable for bigger sizes The main theme of the season with peony jacquard does not match the target and is not expected to be sold, therefore it is not included in the buying order Trend-approach, no signature brand’s items (Vera Wang doesn’t introduce any in RTW collections).

Antique White 102

Gray 105

Purple 120

Black 500

Crystal scales

Tile sequin scales

Lace ornaments

Lavender 118

Indigo 119

Peony tulle

Matellase’

Shining matellase’

Skirt VW/FW13/SK/3/CRS1/500 760€ 38,(2), 40 Top VW/FW13/T/3/500 300€ 40, 42(2), 44(2), 46, 48 Skirt VW/FW13/SK/3/CRS1/500 270€ 38, 40(2), 42(3), 44 Fur mantelet VW/FW13/M/8/500 1100€ 1 piece Dress VW/FW13/D/3/CRS1/500 980€ 38, 40, 42 Top VW/FW13/T/3/CRS1/500 300 38, 40, 42 Pants VW/FW13/P/3/EM10/500 380 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress VW/FW13/D/3/CRS1/500 600 38, 42

Top VW/FW13/T/4/SEQ3/105500 450 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 Skirt VW/FW13/SK/4/ SEQ3/105500 350 38, 40, 42 Top VW/FW13/T1/4/ SEQ3/105500 300 38(2), 40(2), 42 Top VW/FW13/T/3/CRS1/118 600€ 38(2), 40 (2), 42, 44, 46 Pants VW/FW13/P/3/500 320 € 40, 42,(3) 44(3), 46(2), 48(2) Dress VW/FW13/D/3/KN3/119 880 38, 40(2), 42(2), 44

Dress VW/FW13/D/3/KN2KN3/118119

Blouse VW/FW13/BL/3/ PR3/102500 410€ 38, 40(2), 42, 44 Pants VW/FW13/P/3/KN2/118 430 38, 40, 42 Blouse VW/FW13/BL/3/ PR3/120500 390 38, 40, 42 Dress VW/FW13/D/3/EM9/500 880 38, 40

Jenny Packham • • • • •

•

•

Different types of ceremonies: from graduation to royal events Very feminnine and elegant gowns Colours and fits without seasonality Fitted sleeveless silhoettes do not allow to offer big sizes Gowns that can be worn by consumers of different ages and stylistic preferences The brand has introduced a very broad collection : a lot of colours and motives, 1 garment per 1 SKU Mixed approach: signature dresses of pale colours with shaping crystals applique as well as the items which are supposed to be sold and that are not carrying any specific features of the brand.

Latte 101

Plum 121

Salmon 114

Powder blue 106

Pine green 107

Auburn 116

Oxford blue 111

Black 500

Tile sequins scales

Crystal motives

Sequins scales

Crystal decorations

Crystal covering

Crystal and Sequins decorations

Dress JP/FW13/D/3/114 1100 38, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/SEQ3/114 1270 38, 40 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS4/116 760 40, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D1/3/CRS4/116 1420 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS4/121 800 38, 40, 42, 44

Dress JP/FW13/D/5/CRS3/101 1100 40, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS3/101 1100 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/500 1080 40, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/SEQ2/500 1000 38, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/4/CRS4/500 980 40, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/4/500 880 42, 44, 46

Blouse JP/FW13/BL/3/CRS3/111 360 40, 42, 44, 46 Skirt JP/FW13/SK/3/111 300 40, 42, 44, 46 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/111 960 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRSSEQ/111 1600 40, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/ SEQ2/107 1320 40, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS2/106 1600 40

FORECAST

Elie Saab, Vera Wang and Jenny Packham are the types of gowns that are bought with a purpose if a special ceremony or the Christmas eve coming. Marchesa is a more delicate purchase, very special ceremony, consultation and perfect service are needed. Elie Saab is supposed to remain a best-seller for the Full-price sales: the brand offers the best looks for the events on the Christmas Eve. The main reasonings of biggest sales in th 30%-sales period are the Christmas holidays and an enormous traffic in the store: tourists coming to Italy for the beginning of sales. Elie Saab, Vera Wang and Jenny Packham represent the category of Christmas gowns whereas Marchesa is a more «red carpet brand». Since the main events like Golden Gloes, Berlin FIlm Festival and Oscars happen after the New Year, Marchesa is supposed to be sold better in the period of sales.

Accessories, especially Marchesa will contibute the biggest margins since they perfectly fit many outfits and almost every ceremony where the evening gown is needed.

Vera Wang has produced a less «evening» collection, it is an experimental decision: try a «cocktail» direction of buying. After evaluation a decision will be taken: if to leave a less formal offer or to focus on red carpet and special occasions.

Marchesa is not supposed to have a big percentage of sales in total, since the items are very expensive and if few dresses arre not sold it already mkes a big percentage of total.

OTB/Elie Saab couture dresses will probably be sold one during the season and another one during the 50% sales. These are the garments of a high fashion content and are usually sold to the fans of the brand, or fashion-followers who shop during the sales.

Special Offers will not be introduced in the section, the occasion of use does not suppose to propose sales outside the traditional calendar

APPENDIX 1: COLOURS INDEX

Latte 101

Pine green 107

Antique White 102

Cerulean 108

French beige 103

Persian blue 109

English lavender 104

Midnight blue 110

Gray 105

Oxford blue 111

Powder blue 106

Black 500

Citrine 112

Lavender 118

Golden poppy 113

Indigo 119

Salmon 114

Purple 120

Red 115

Plum 121

Auburn 116

Dark iris 122

Burgundy 117

APPENDIX 2: CODES INDEX

CODE

TYPOLOGY OF ITEM

B

Bag

BLZ

Blazer

BL

Blouse

C

Clutch

D

Dress

JK

Jacket

JMS

Jumpsuit

M

Mantelet

P

Pants

S

Shoes

SK

Skirt

T

Top

TR

Trousers

CODE

FABRIC

1

Cotton

2

Polyester

3

Silk

4

Viscose

5

Wool

6

Elastane

7

Fur (coloured fox)

8

Fur (mink)

9

Leather

10

Suede

CODE

Type of Embroidery

CODE

Type of Embroidery

EM1

Versailles

CRS1

Crystal Scales

CRS2

Crystal Decorations

CRS3

Crystal Motives

EM3

Baroque embroidery Iconic Floral Rococo

EM4

Oriental flowers

CRS4

Crystal Covering

EM6

Tulle Embroidery

CRSSEQ

Crystal and Sequins decorations

EM7

Thick Embroidery

PR1

Batik

EM8

Embroidery on lace

PR2

Graphite flowers

EM9

Peony Jacquard

PR3

Peony Tulle

EM10

Lace Ornaments

KN1

Herringbone Knits

SEQ1

Sequins Aplique

KN2

Matellase’

SEQ2

Sequins Scales

KN3

Shining Matellase’

SEQ3

Tile Sequins Scales

SEQ4

Sequins Spiralls

EM2

CODE

COLOURS

CODE

COLOURS

100

White

116

Auburn

101

Latte

117

Burgundy

102

Antique White

118

Lavender

103

French Beige

119

Indigo

104

English Lavender

120

Purple

105

Gray

121

Plum

106

Powder Blue

122

Dark Iris

107

Pine Green

500

Black

108

Cerulean

109

Persian Blue

110

Midnight Blue

111

Oxford Blue

112

Citrine

113

Golden Poppy

114

Salmon

115

Red

CODE

COLOURS

CODE

COLOURS

100

White

116

Auburn

101

Latte

117

Burgundy

102

Antique White

118

Lavender

103

French Beige

119

Indigo

104

English Lavender

120

Purple

105

Gray

121

Plum

106

Powder Blue

122

Dark Iris

107

Pine Green

500

Black

108

Cerulean

109

Persian Blue

110

Midnight Blue

111

Oxford Blue

112

Citrine

113

Golden Poppy

114

Salmon

115

Red

PRESENTATION OF THE PROJECT

MEGA TRENDS «New money» & BRIC countries

0

NOW

4500

9000

13500

18000

Western Europe North America China and Japan

Western Europe

BY 2016

North America China and Japan 0

7500

15000

22500

30000

Brazil, Russia, India and China economies will be the world’s biggest by 2050

Rapid acquisition of wealth Ability to buy things Investment opportunities in European countries, Especially France and Italy specialized in apparel and tailoring

Central Retail Group reporting the trends: ‣

The new rich target group (Chinese, Russian, Japanese)

‣

Italy - major shopping destination

‣

Tax free options: Chinese (17% ), Russians (15%)

In 2010 every tourist in Europe spent on tax free purchases: 1. Chinese: 744 € 2. US tourist: 554 € 3. Japanese: 521 € 4. Russian: 368 €

WHY?

In search for value: ‣

high values

‣

countries of origins

‣

authetic

‣

saving money.

The desire for the exceptional:

‣

more expectations from luxury

‣

made-to-order products

‣

services tailored to their needs

‣

expensive products = a good “lasting” investment The search for meaning::

‣

desire for responsible consumption

‣

a tradition

‣

a story behind a product

THE GAP

HISTORY LOCATION COMPLETE SELECTION of clothes, acessories, jewellery, beauty products and many others for wellbeing and house keeping.

SUCCESSFUL ACHIEVEMENT of target groups

WEAK POINTS: 1.

Young-oriented department

with poor interior, fixtures and bad selection of brands. Lack of promotion and signages in the store.

2.

«New designers» department

A more pioneer concept, nevertheless introduced in many international department stores.

3.

Tailoring

Italian’s most famous tradition could have been developed for mens department.

4.

Eveningwear department

A very big minus of La RInascente: almost every department large scale store has

EVENINGWEAR

Completing the «luxury» puzzle Strategical decision for the group Sollution for clients’ requests Simplifying the personnel work MAJOR INTERNATIONAL EVENINGWEAR BRANDS: Zac Posen, Marchesa, Badgley Mischka, Naeem Khan,Monique Lhuillier, Roland Mouret, J. Mendel, Dean Quinn, Azzaro, David Koma, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Elie Saab, Herve Leger, Jenny Packham, Matthew Williamson, Dina Bar-El, Zuhair Murad, Basix Black Label

•

4 brands

•

Marchesa, Elie Saab, Vera Wang, Jenny Packham

•

Upcoming trends + target trends: luxurious fabrics and embellishments, fresh young sollutions even for the elder targets.

•

Looking spectacular and remarkable.

•

Different clasters of target: age, style preferences and spending power.

•

Classical gowns from Marchesa, feminnine Elie Saab, oriental Vera Wang and graceful Jenny Packham.

3rd FLOOR ESCADA

RALPH LAUREN blue label

BURBERRY

VERSACE COLLECTION

•

Classic and casual womenswear

•

Prestigious shoe department

SEVENTY CASH DESK

CASH DESK

CLASS ROBERTO CAVALLI

FAY

GERARD DAREL

ARMANI COLLEZIONI MAX MARA STUDIO CASH DESK

EVENINGWEAR SECTION

SHOE DEPARTMENT

VISIBLE HIGH TRAFFIC (1st floor dedicated to womenswear) SHOES SECTION (to complete outfit) ATTRACTIVE AND WELCOMING

BRANDS

MARCHESA •

Ready-to-wear 1900 €>

Established in 2004 by Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig Headquarters in New York Best known for red carpet evening gowns Vintage meets Asian style Embroidery, beaded embellishments and prints No stand alone boutiques No e-commerce on its website High end retailers in United States and 34 other countries internationally and online retailers Milan: «Tearose»

ELIE SAAB • •

Ready-to-wear 1800 €> Haute Couture 7600 € - 20000 €

Beirut-based Unique fusion of western and eastern cultures Aerial effect and fine materials highlight a feminine silhouette Exclusive positioning: high demand on haute couture, personalized dresses, entering the yacht and hotel businesses.

Italy: San Remo «Spinnaker» and Capri «Etos Group Italia»

VERA WANG •

Ready-to-wear 490 € - 1900€

Established in New York Best know for Bridal collections and her collaborations with figure skaters Signature style: layering, draping and attention to details Creates a world around the label and gets inspired by her native chinese culture

Diverse positioning: diffusion line pricing 18€-170€, whereas bridal is up to 9000€ Her style is maintained throughout all lines and is available for different clasters of customers.

Milan: «Super», piazza San Marco, «Antonella del Brusco» atelier

JENNY PACKHAM •

Ready-to-wear 370 € - 4200€

Established in New York Famous for elegant and feminnine style (recently associated with Kate Middleton, one of its most impostant clients) Airy fabrics, attention to the materials and details Diverse target in terms of age, demographics, elite with refind taste

Selective distribution, operate less stores then the other brands Milan: «Antonella del Brusco» atelier, the only distributr in Italy

BUYING CONCEPT AND ASSORTMENT PLANNING

INDEPENDENT ASSORTMENT PLANNING

FOCUS ON SPECIAL OCCASION

PLANNING

BY BRAND

MAIN COLLECTIONS

MATERIALS AND COLOURS CORE PRODUCTS

ICONIC

BESTSELLERS

EXCLUSIVITY

DIVERSITY

1 item per 1 SKU

REDUCED SIZINGS

DIVERSE PRICE RANGE AFFORDABLE

CLASSIC

EXCLUSIVE ICONIC

ROYAL

STYLE ELEGANT

ORIENTAL SEDUCTIVE

ICONIC ITEMS

Marchesa

Red, Burgundy and Black Colours Baroque motives

Elie Saab

Round middle-length skirts Embroideries overlaying lace Maxi wrap skirts

Elie Saab

Designs of bags are repeated each season with slight changes

Jenny Packham

Shaping crystals aplique Tight maxi dresses with scales lengthwise

HEROES TOTAL LOOKS: Gray, Ivory, Black Shades of Navy and Blue

Latte 101

Oxford blue 111

Antique White 102

Midnight blue 110

Powder blue 106

Black 500

Gray 105

Persian blue 109

TREND ITEMS

Navy

Elie Saab Jenny Packham

Night owl

Marchesa Elie Saab

Night owl

Vera Wang

Ecru

Elie Saab Jenny Packham

Metallic Mesh

Jenny Packham Vera Wang

1940S

Marchesa Elie Saab

1940S

Elie Saab

1940S

Vera Wang Jenny Packham

BUDGET ALLOCATION

Fall/Winter CALENDAR NY

PARIS

LA RINASCENTE DELIVERIES

FEBRUARY

MARCH

JUNE

PARIS

LA RINASCENTE (COUTURE deliveries)

LA RINASCENTE

JULY

SEPTEMBER

DECEMBER

JANUARY

FEBRUARY

MARCH

LA RINASCENTE LA RINASCENTE LA RINASCENTE (Sales -30%) (Sales -50%)

VERA WANG

12

2nd quarter

evaluation of perfomances

5

5

evaluation of the season

JENNY PACKHAM

12

2nd quarter

evaluation of perfomances

5

5

evaluation of the season

MARCHESA

13

2nd quarter

evaluation of perfomances

5

5

evaluation of the season

End of month

evaluation of perfomances

5

5

evaluation of the season

evaluation of perfomances

5

5

evaluation of the season

ELIE SAAB

COUTURE

6

1st quarter

2-3 quarter

TOTAL SELL-IN 241284 € 104804 €

44420 €

42700 €

41360 €

8000 €

ELIE SAAB

JENNY PACKHAM

VERA WANG

MARCHESA

OTB (ELIE SAAB HC)

3,3 % 17,1 % 43,4 % 17,7 %

18,4 %

APPAREL 214324 € 167464 € 10950 € 8140 € DRESSES

TOPS

2,8 3,1

SKIRTS

0,5 1,2 1,4 2,6

7380 € 6800 € 6330 € 3360 € JUMPSUITS BLOUSES

PANTS

TROUSERS

2800 € 1100 € JACKETS

3,4 4,5

69,4

MANTELET

ACCESSORIES 26960 € 5180 €

21780 €

CLUTCHES

SHOES

2,1

9,0

BUYING SIMULATION

MARCHESA Gray 105

Red 115

Burgundy 117

Versailles

Floral Rococo

Baroque Embroidery

Black 500

Dress M/FW13/D/3/EM2/115 3,200€ 38, 42 Dress M/FW13/D/3/EM2/117 2920 € 38 Dress M/FW13/D/3 /EM2/500 3,320€ 40, 44 Dress M/FW13/D/3 /EM1/105 2360 40 Dress M/FW13/D1/3 /EM1/105 2,480€ 38, 42

Dress M/FW13/D/3/EM3/500 2480 38 Jumpsuit M/FW13/JMS/3/EM3/500 2580 40

Clutch M/FW13/C/3/ EM3/500 980€ 2 Clutch M/FW13/C/3 /EM2/115 800€ 1

Shoes M/FW13/S/3/105 370€ 36,5, 37(2), 38(2), 39 Shoes M/FW13/S/3/115 370€ 37, 38, 39

Shoes M/FW13/S/3/500 370€ 36, 37(2), 37,5, 38(3), 39, 40 Shoes M/FW13/S/9/500 400€ 36,5, 37(3), 37,5, 38(2), 39, 41

ELIE SAAB Latte 101

Cerulean 108

Midnight blue 110

Black 500

Tulle Embroidery

Embroidery on lace

Plum 121

Dark iris 122

Sequins aplique

Dress ES/FW13/D/35/110122 632 40, 42, 44(2), 46, 48, 50 Blouse ES/FW13/BL/3/110 260 38 (2), 40, 42 Trousers ES/FW13/TR/5/110 215 38, 40(2), 42(2), 44,46, 48 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/110 950€ 38, 40, 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 850 38, 40, 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 700 38, 40, 42(2), 44(2), 46, 48, 50 Blouse ES/FW13/BL/3/108 220 40, 42, 44(2), 46 Skirt ES/FW13/SK/4/108 420 38, 40,42, 44

Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 850 38, 40, 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/108 700 38, 40, 42(2), 44(2), 46, 48, 50 Blouse ES/FW13/BL/3/108 220 40, 42, 44(2), 46 Skirt ES/FW13/SK/4/108 420 38, 40,42, 44 Dress ES/FW13/D/4/121 700€ 38, 40,(2), 42(2), 44, 46 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/121 1,400€ 40(2), 42(2), 44(2), 46 Dress ES/FW13/D/3 /EM8/121 2,500€ 42

Dress ES/FW13/D/4/101 600€ 38(2), 40,(2), 42 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/101 2,000€ 38 Fur Jacket ES/FW13/JK/7/500 2800 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/SEQ1/500 40, 44 3480 Dress ES/FW13/D/3/EM8/500 2120 42, 46 Dress ES/FW13/D/34/EM8/500 980€ 38, 40,42(2)

Dress ES/FW13/D/3/SEQ1/500 2100 38, 42

Dress ES/FW13/D/3/SEQ1EM8/5 2,500€ 40, 44 Dress ES/FW13/D1/3/SEQ1/500 960 42, 44, 46

Dress ES/FW13/D/3/500 1600€ 40, 42(2), 44 Jumpsuit ES/FW13/JMS/3/500 1600€ 38, 40, 44

Clutch ES/FW13/C/9/101 310€ 2 Clutch ES/FW13/C/39/110 260€ 3

Clutch ES/FW13/C/9/SEQ1/110 380 2 Clutch ES/FW13/C/10/108 260 1

Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/108 520€ 37, 38 Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/500 520€ 36,5, 37(2), 38(3), 39, 40 Shoes ES/FW13/S/89/500 610 38, 39 Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/101 300€ 36, 37, 38, 38,5, 39 Shoes ES/FW13/S/10/500 300€ 36, 37(2), 37,5, 38(4), 38,5, 39(2), 40

VERA WANG Antique White 102

Gray 105

Purple 120

Black 500

Crystal scales

Tile sequin scales

Lavender 118

Shining matellase’

Peony tulle

Lace ornaments

Indigo 119

Matellase’

Skirt VW/FW13/SK/3/CRS1/500 760€ 38,(2), 40 Top VW/FW13/T/3/500 300€ 40, 42(2), 44(2), 46, 48 Skirt VW/FW13/SK/3/CRS1/500 270€ 38, 40(2), 42(3), 44 Fur mantelet VW/FW13/M/8/500 1100€ 1 piece Dress VW/FW13/D/3/CRS1/500 980€ 38, 40, 42 Top VW/FW13/T/3/CRS1/500 300 38, 40, 42 Pants VW/FW13/P/3/EM10/500 380 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress VW/FW13/D/3/CRS1/500 600 38, 42

Top VW/FW13/T/4/SEQ3/105500 450 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 Skirt VW/FW13/SK/4/ SEQ3/105500 350 38, 40, 42 Top VW/FW13/T1/4/ SEQ3/105500 300 38(2), 40(2), 42 Top VW/FW13/T/3/CRS1/118 600€ 38(2), 40 (2), 42, 44, 46 Pants VW/FW13/P/3/500 320 € 40, 42,(3) 44(3), 46(2), 48(2) Dress VW/FW13/D/3/KN3/119 880 38, 40(2), 42(2), 44

Dress VW/FW13/D/3/KN2KN3/118119

Blouse VW/FW13/BL/3/ PR3/102500 410€ 38, 40(2), 42, 44 Pants VW/FW13/P/3/KN2/118 430 38, 40, 42 Blouse VW/FW13/BL/3/ PR3/120500 390 38, 40, 42 Dress VW/FW13/D/3/EM9/500 880 38, 40

Jenny Packham Latte 101

Plum 121

Salmon 114

Powder blue 106

Pine green 107

Auburn 116

Oxford blue 111

Black 500

Tile sequins scales

Crystal motives

Sequins scales

Crystal decorations

Crystal covering

Crystal and Sequins decorations

Dress JP/FW13/D/3/114 1100 38, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/SEQ3/114 1270 38, 40 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS4/116 760 40, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D1/3/CRS4/116 1420 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS4/121 800 38, 40, 42, 44

Dress JP/FW13/D/5/CRS3/101 1100 40, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS3/101 1100 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/500 1080 40, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/SEQ2/500 1000 38, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/4/CRS4/500 980 40, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/4/500 880 42, 44, 46

Blouse JP/FW13/BL/3/CRS3/111 360 40, 42, 44, 46 Skirt JP/FW13/SK/3/111 300 40, 42, 44, 46 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/111 960 38, 40, 42, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRSSEQ/111 1600 40, 44 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/ SEQ2/107 1320 40, 42 Dress JP/FW13/D/3/CRS2/106 1600 40

FORECAST

200000

MARCHESA ELIE SAAB VERA WANG OTB

M.ACCESSORIES E.S.ACCESSORIES JENNY PACKHAM

150000

100000

50000

0 FULL PRICE

SALES 30%

SALES 50%

Marchesa Apparel(67%) and Accessories(92%)

11

33 47 12

FULL PRICE SALES 50%

16

8

65

8

SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED

FULL PRICE SALES 50%

SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED

Elie Saab Apparel(88%) and Accessories(81%)

12

19

11 10 14

FULL PRICE SALES 50%

63

SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED

12

FULL PRICE SALES 50%

59

SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED

Vera Wang(73%)

Jenny Packham(74%) 26

27 56

7

9

10

FULL PRICE SALES 50%

54 11

SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED

FULL PRICE SALES 50%

OTB(100%) 55

FULL PRICE SALES 50%

45

SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED

SALES 30% STOCK REMAINED